I appreciate that, and completely agree with the tendency to overcomplicate the mundane with this machine. I'm a simpler is better kinda guy, so I'll do my best to keep it that way
Haha the first thing i built with mine was a rack for my cleat wall to hold the Allen key, the Wrench and some basic bits. And some other accessories like shaper tape. As i love my original so much everything goes right back where it came from
I tend to use plate a lot. I dont have much sawdust accumulating around the Origin with my Festool dust extractor, but I do get a lot of blow-back on me :( I've been adding painters tape around the top of the dust shield and found that helps quite a bit. eventually I expect I'll fab or print some more satisfying solution
Taping the finger guard is a nobrainer idea. Wonder why I haven't thought to do that? My CT36 just isn't keeping up with the chips. Perhaps its bit type + cut depth + material, etc etc, but since adding the little blower, I'm not having to manually clear chips and dust away from the cut surface as often
I'm slightly jealous. Do you find that you save a significant amount of time to justify the cost of the extra spindle, or are you just having it as a backup?
I rarely use SO with a single bit so yep, and your tip makes the swap out even quicker. Even though my experience tells me that the a failure will likely occur with the servos, I also see the extra spindle as insurance.
The lever upgrade is cool, but I feel you should have mentioned that when doing a deeper carve or if the lever is down you can hit the dust shroud. I find that almost as annoying as the allen key. Shaper really should design something that works better.
Fair point, and I think we're all in agreement that the design should be changed. I'm usually never going much deeper than 1", but I've found that if I'm using a longer bit (which most of my deep cut bits are) the spindle never is fully maxed out due to limiting the amount of Z touch required.
I tried replacing the Shaper screw…every cut has the handle hitting the dust shroud. Big fail. The handle is in the way on almost any cut with depth to it.
Curious when you say the Shaper dust collection isn't that good? What dust extractor are you using? Even with my shop vac (connected with the Shaper brand hose) I never had dust buildup in front of the tool. I would get dust coming back at me a bit under and around the sneeze guard, but never in front. I recently purchased a Festool CT MIDI and I have almost no dust at all. Not trying to be critical. I just am curious what causes dust in front or the tool.
I'm using a CT36 with a separator. My comment about collection is solely based on types of bit + type of material + depth of cut + direction of movement with the machine. That tiny port in the base can't always keep up with the volume of chips from larger diameter bits and deeper cuts. In my experience, unless you're moving the machine very slow to give extraction a chance, the turbulence from the bit spits dust and chips every which way. This past weekend that little blower made a world of difference while I was cutting MDF
After purchasing the lever, I simply brought it to my local hardware store and tested a series of couplers and sleeves. The spacer measures 1/4" inside diameter x 1/4" in length.
I placed the links in the description. Google has not verified my account, so I'm unable to make the links clickable. For now you can copy and paste. Best I can do.
If you can be one thing, you should be efficient. >$8 solution to NOT have to fumble around to find a tool to do a thing, quite frankly SO should have included into their design....I call that a win
@@ShaperSpeak I use a magnet for the Allen key and wrench. Honestly, the Allen key is not that big a deal, certainly no more work than removing the motor from a Porter Cable 890 or Bosch 1617 to change the bit.
There are SO many videos on here about this tool. THIS one is actually simple, to the point, and useful. Great recommendations. Thanks!
I appreciate that, and completely agree with the tendency to overcomplicate the mundane with this machine. I'm a simpler is better kinda guy, so I'll do my best to keep it that way
Haha the first thing i built with mine was a rack for my cleat wall to hold the Allen key, the Wrench and some basic bits. And some other accessories like shaper tape. As i love my original so much everything goes right back where it came from
The thing referred to at the start is a Bristol Lever. Widely available on Amazon
I tend to use plate a lot. I dont have much sawdust accumulating around the Origin with my Festool dust extractor, but I do get a lot of blow-back on me :( I've been adding painters tape around the top of the dust shield and found that helps quite a bit. eventually I expect I'll fab or print some more satisfying solution
Taping the finger guard is a nobrainer idea. Wonder why I haven't thought to do that? My CT36 just isn't keeping up with the chips. Perhaps its bit type + cut depth + material, etc etc, but since adding the little blower, I'm not having to manually clear chips and dust away from the cut surface as often
thanks so much. I have two spindles and appreciate the tip.
I'm slightly jealous. Do you find that you save a significant amount of time to justify the cost of the extra spindle, or are you just having it as a backup?
I rarely use SO with a single bit so yep, and your tip makes the swap out even quicker. Even though my experience tells me that the a failure will likely occur with the servos, I also see the extra spindle as insurance.
The lever upgrade is cool, but I feel you should have mentioned that when doing a deeper carve or if the lever is down you can hit the dust shroud. I find that almost as annoying as the allen key. Shaper really should design something that works better.
Fair point, and I think we're all in agreement that the design should be changed. I'm usually never going much deeper than 1", but I've found that if I'm using a longer bit (which most of my deep cut bits are) the spindle never is fully maxed out due to limiting the amount of Z touch required.
I tried replacing the Shaper screw…every cut has the handle hitting the dust shroud. Big fail. The handle is in the way on almost any cut with depth to it.
Curious when you say the Shaper dust collection isn't that good? What dust extractor are you using? Even with my shop vac (connected with the Shaper brand hose) I never had dust buildup in front of the tool. I would get dust coming back at me a bit under and around the sneeze guard, but never in front. I recently purchased a Festool CT MIDI and I have almost no dust at all. Not trying to be critical. I just am curious what causes dust in front or the tool.
I'm using a CT36 with a separator. My comment about collection is solely based on types of bit + type of material + depth of cut + direction of movement with the machine. That tiny port in the base can't always keep up with the volume of chips from larger diameter bits and deeper cuts. In my experience, unless you're moving the machine very slow to give extraction a chance, the turbulence from the bit spits dust and chips every which way. This past weekend that little blower made a world of difference while I was cutting MDF
No link to the sleeve?
That tool you are looking for is always in your pocket.
Pocket, tucked into the back of my hat, the deepest darkest recesses of a my tools chests.......NEVER right where I need it
Hey how’s it going. Do you have the link to the spacer for the shaper screw?
After purchasing the lever, I simply brought it to my local hardware store and tested a series of couplers and sleeves. The spacer measures 1/4" inside diameter x 1/4" in length.
@@ShaperSpeak Gotcha. Thanks.
Could you add some links to all the products?
I placed the links in the description. Google has not verified my account, so I'm unable to make the links clickable. For now you can copy and paste. Best I can do.
@@ShaperSpeak I saw able to click it.
Def nice little upgrades for everyone in the shaper community.
Cheap and easy, just how me like it. Only took me 4 years to figure it out.
@@ShaperSpeak “if I only knew then, what I know now…”
Seriously? It’s a 4mm Allen key, not a 10mm socket.
If you can be one thing, you should be efficient. >$8 solution to NOT have to fumble around to find a tool to do a thing, quite frankly SO should have included into their design....I call that a win
@@ShaperSpeak I use a magnet for the Allen key and wrench. Honestly, the Allen key is not that big a deal, certainly no more work than removing the motor from a Porter Cable 890 or Bosch 1617 to change the bit.