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I used what I had on hand. But if they're available, you now know knocking down the sheen works

Totally agree about the cost of Studio, but I think it's getting better with every new roll out. I wish they had a free form "drawing" feature. But I'm sure that would be a nightmare from the coding side

You're spot on with your criticism, but this whole YT thing requires a certain level of novelty to get noticed. As far as Shaper is concerned, they have reached out to me about certain things I've posted, and have been tremendously supportive. Finding creative solutions to workflow issues is a way for them to learn and develop, but more importantly see that their community loves their product. I frequently purchase from them, knowing full well I could find similar products at a lower price. I love the machine, love the company, and continue to support them with my dollars. Appreciate you chiming in

@@ShaperSpeak I absolutely understand the use of, let's call them, exciting titles to generate interest. I also genuinely admire that you're taking the time to make these videos. Unless someone has had to write, record and produce good quality videos they never truly understand how many hours can be spent to get several minutes of clear, concise and engaging content. In my experience it runs to hours of effort for every minute produced, so thanks for doing this and educating more people. The Shaper community in general is a incredibly positive, welcoming and helpful group.

For us bald guys, hair spray might be rare commodity in our homes/shops (hahahaha), but I think it would do the trick. Might dry quicker too

Good question. The lettering in the video was approximately 5"x2". I'll use these fonts in an upcoming video on my main channel, which will be significantly smaller than these examples. When I finish that project, I'll link it to another video on this channel

You're absolutely spot on. Shaper does off some general guidelines, which is good for a starting point. Each bit is different, each species has different properties, and keeping track of it all is a job in and of itself. I don't claim to be an expert machinist at all, but I'll continue to share my experiences as they come up

You don't have to be accurate...just in the ballpark. Shaper autocorrects for you.

Precisely (so to speak). There's a circle on the screen that allows you to wander a mm or so away from the actual cut path, and Shaper will then compensate. If you syray too far outside of that circle, then Shaper auto retracts the bit

@@ShaperSpeak very cool tech.

I can't include clickable links until Google gets off their butts and validates my account. Been trying for 3 months

If you can be one thing, you should be efficient. >$8 solution to NOT have to fumble around to find a tool to do a thing, quite frankly SO should have included into their design....I call that a win

@@ShaperSpeak I use a magnet for the Allen key and wrench. Honestly, the Allen key is not that big a deal, certainly no more work than removing the motor from a Porter Cable 890 or Bosch 1617 to change the bit.

I'm slightly jealous. Do you find that you save a significant amount of time to justify the cost of the extra spindle, or are you just having it as a backup?

I rarely use SO with a single bit so yep, and your tip makes the swap out even quicker. Even though my experience tells me that the a failure will likely occur with the servos, I also see the extra spindle as insurance.

It works. Just knock down the sheen and you'll be good to go

If I could find them locally I most certainly would. I was just using what I had on hand to make it work

@@ShaperSpeak if you give me your adress I send you some

I'm using a CT36 with a separator. My comment about collection is solely based on types of bit + type of material + depth of cut + direction of movement with the machine. That tiny port in the base can't always keep up with the volume of chips from larger diameter bits and deeper cuts. In my experience, unless you're moving the machine very slow to give extraction a chance, the turbulence from the bit spits dust and chips every which way. This past weekend that little blower made a world of difference while I was cutting MDF

Absolutely. I just purchased a 90 degree engraving bit for some brass engravings, so perhaps I'll do a comparison and see how they turn out.

Great point. I was using an old piece of tempered hardboard as a sacrificial surface with the Duck indoor/outdoor tape and it left a ton of residue on the bit and on the inside edges of my cuts. Won't be doing that again. I used the clear Duck tape yesterday and had no residue. The only issue with the clear tape is you need to had a dead flat surface with some grit to it or it doesn't stick as well as the Shaper tape

When you generate a new sheet with the online generator from the video, you get a new random pattern. I used a slew of these sheets yesterday with no issues

@@ShaperSpeak gotcha what I was going to do is print an whole 165’ roll of vinyl with them. Essentially it’s 54” wide so I could probably print 165’ x probably 45 apportioninga little over an inch for each domino height if that makes sense.

I failed to mention that slower speeds are necessary for materials like nonferrous metals. But that's a topic for another day.

You're very welcome. I think if you went with the Origin, you wouldn't be disappointed (but I'm biased so take that recommendation for what it is)

Pocket, tucked into the back of my hat, the deepest darkest recesses of a my tools chests.......NEVER right where I need it

Precisely. I use this laminated tape on "production" jigs, and it has made a world of difference

Sadly it's a bit more complicated than that. For simplicity sake, upcut v. downcut is more about the quality of the show face rather than specifically about extraction. in some situations the compacted dust can act as a clamp

Good to know. I'm due for a restock, so I'll check it out

This is basically the same price as the Shaper tape.

yup, same stuff as golf club grip tape.

Bring it on!!! I'll be working on some new stuff in the coming weeks and months to hopefully shed some light on this fantastic machine

I've "accidentally" done that in the past, and you're spot on. For whatever reason it works

An oversight in my explanation, but this is what the comment section is for. Appreciate you chiming in

Fair point, and I think we're all in agreement that the design should be changed. I'm usually never going much deeper than 1", but I've found that if I'm using a longer bit (which most of my deep cut bits are) the spindle never is fully maxed out due to limiting the amount of Z touch required.

I didn't think of that, but I did have a healthy amount of double side tape on those laminated sheets to keep them as flat as possible. Since using them, I have noticed that if the corners aren't properly taped, you do run the risk of raising a corner and having problems with cuts

Yes,, I have found that if there is any.. and I mean - ANY - tape movement, you will get a warning. If you have double sided tape at the 4 corners, that still leave the center portion to deflect up or down. I realize it does not seem like much.. but Origin will detect it. @@ShaperSpeak

I appreciate that, and completely agree with the tendency to overcomplicate the mundane with this machine. I'm a simpler is better kinda guy, so I'll do my best to keep it that way

Not my intention to post affiliate links within the description, so I'll just copy in the link here. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08FSZVL1D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank You!

I was wondering how shaper would do with tapered bits as I was practicing some inlays this morning. Looks like they sell an 11 degree taper bit as well 👍

After purchasing the lever, I simply brought it to my local hardware store and tested a series of couplers and sleeves. The spacer measures 1/4" inside diameter x 1/4" in length.

@@ShaperSpeak Gotcha. Thanks.

I hear, and appreciate the critiques. Mistakes will be made, but as long as you all catch them and offer up positive feedback, I'll make the adjustments after the fact. Not a perfect solution, but the best I can do.

Great comparison and I would liked to have seen a table at the end. I’ve been using Hippie Tape - no tear out but sometimes I need a crow bar to pull it off.

I placed the links in the description. Google has not verified my account, so I'm unable to make the links clickable. For now you can copy and paste. Best I can do.

@@ShaperSpeak I saw able to click it.

Cheap and easy, just how me like it. Only took me 4 years to figure it out.

@@ShaperSpeak “if I only knew then, what I know now…”

Oh there's more. I've got 2 more things that Shaper should include in their "Gen 3" model.

You'll get there my friend, and when you do, you'll be leaps and bounds ahead of where I was when I first started

@@ShaperSpeak That will be all thanks to you and your channel!

Not a 100% guarantee that you'll never buy Shaper tape again, but these laminated strip sure do come in handy when you need them. Since recording this back in November, I don't think I've laid down tape since

No problem thanks for the content.

Good information. Obviously, I can't test them all, but good to know there are other cost-effective options. I was focusing on tapes that are easily available (minus Shaper) and wouldn't require the added wait times/cost with shipping, but I'll give the tapes you mention a try down the road

Each time you generate a page, it is completely randomized. One other trick is simply to rotate the printed sheets 90/180 degree or reorient them to get random configurations.

I ended abruptly, but you'll notice I use these laminated sheets all the time. This is a great option for those instances where you need to add/retape in the middle of a project.