In this video, I will be swapping out the Compressor, discharge hoses, orifice tube, and high pressure switch. I will also flush the system and add R134.
To clear up some information. Automotive systems used R12 until 1994-96 time frame. R12 systems used mineral oil which is not usable by R134a, 134 will NOT circulate the mineral oil, so bad news for the compressor. I've done a few of these conversions and have always used POE (ester) oil, never had any problems. O-rings will probably need replacing to ensure compatibility with 134 as will the accumulator (134 requires XH5 or XH7 dessicant, IIRC). If R12 mixes with atmospheric air (oxygen) and stands for any amount of time within the system an acid is formed that will eat from the inside out weakening condensers and evaporators.
Thanks for the info. I replaced all of the o-rings, so I should not have issues there. What would you recommend as the best way to flush the system? I think I could have done a better job with that.
Hello my friend When converting to R134a you first remove the old ferion then you must do an appropriate flashing all the system each separately no need to replace the compressor just flash it using gas R11only.. Only items to be replaced is the condenser and the accumulator and hoses + expansion orffice tube & all other O'Rings which fits for 134a , these items only must be replaced adding one ounce PAG oil in each new part you installed.. no need to change compressor unless there is problem.. Just flash it n add 3 ounces of pag oil After fittings evacuate the system properly for about one hour or more using proper vacuum pump/fittings tools and watch the gauges if vacuum remains good Charge the system.. good luck In case you have problem please check ur connacted hoses then evacuate the system again n recharge.. you have done
After watching this video, I think I'll take my car to an A/C mechanic ;) I know it will cost me a couple grand or so, but I think it's too hard to DYI it w/o all the proper tools (and expertise).
It's still going strong. The biggest improvement was sealing all of the vents behind the dash when I restored the interior. Now I can't leave the AC on full blast for more than 5-10 minutes without freezing. Even in 110 Arizona heat. We'll worth the time and money.
@@fultonsgarage6331 I'm not sure how much it matters, just figured that's why it stuck out a bit further than the old one. Kinda hard to tell in the video but I think the old one was yanked out the other way. Still a killer video, using your tips to convert mine!
@@fultonsgarage6331 thanks for the reply!! I had the compressor, dryer, & lines replaced in my ‘84 last week. He also installed a new fan clutch in hopes of pulling as much air as possible through the condenser. When it’s about “90ish” outside, & sitting idling, mine was about 60 degrees. I was hoping for around 40’s but I guess that isn’t going to happen. 🤷♂️
@@fultonsgarage6331 Just put fans with a relay on the condenser. Wire the fan's relay "on when powered" wire to the green wire on the compressor or high pressure switch. The fans will come on when the AC turns on. R134a requires more cooling than R12 and some recommend the newer horizontal condensers. Try the fans first and you should be OK since you're cooling a truck cab vs a larger car interior. Should see around 10 degrees difference with some good fans.
@sbc383zz r12 or r134a? Or possibly propane.. r12 gets cold but only 4 or so° colder than r134a and 134a doesn't get down to 12° unless something is wrong
To clear up some information. Automotive systems used R12 until 1994-96 time frame. R12 systems used mineral oil which is not usable by R134a, 134 will NOT circulate the mineral oil, so bad news for the compressor. I've done a few of these conversions and have always used POE (ester) oil, never had any problems. O-rings will probably need replacing to ensure compatibility with 134 as will the accumulator (134 requires XH5 or XH7 dessicant, IIRC). If R12 mixes with atmospheric air (oxygen) and stands for any amount of time within the system an acid is formed that will eat from the inside out weakening condensers and evaporators.
Thanks for the info. I replaced all of the o-rings, so I should not have issues there. What would you recommend as the best way to flush the system? I think I could have done a better job with that.
@@fultonsgarage6331 There's an AC flush you can buy.
Hello my friend
When converting to R134a you first remove the old ferion then you must do an appropriate flashing all the system each separately no need to replace the compressor just flash it using gas R11only..
Only items to be replaced is the condenser and the accumulator and hoses + expansion orffice tube & all other O'Rings which fits for 134a , these items only must be replaced adding one ounce PAG oil in each new part you installed.. no need to change compressor unless there is problem.. Just flash it n add 3 ounces of pag oil
After fittings evacuate the system properly for about one hour or more using proper vacuum pump/fittings tools and watch the gauges if vacuum remains good
Charge the system.. good luck
In case you have problem please check ur connacted hoses then evacuate the system again n recharge.. you have done
Brave man to get into a project like that...flip flops in the shop?! Get it figured out??
After watching this video, I think I'll take my car to an A/C mechanic ;) I know it will cost me a couple grand or so, but I think it's too hard to DYI it w/o all the proper tools (and expertise).
It takes 10 ounces of oil Checks bottle okay so it takes 8 ounces of oil 😂😂
Subbed for info and music....😁
I was just looking at this kit. Looked pretty cheap. How’d it hold up? I’d love to get this for my 77 bonanza
It's still going strong. The biggest improvement was sealing all of the vents behind the dash when I restored the interior. Now I can't leave the AC on full blast for more than 5-10 minutes without freezing. Even in 110 Arizona heat. We'll worth the time and money.
@@fultonsgarage6331 that’s awesome!!! Definitely gonna have to get it now!
@@fultonsgarage6331 where’d you purchase the kit from?
Do you have part numbers for everything you replaced?
Do you have info on where you got the upgrade parts? Was it all in a kit?
I thought I kept track of everything but didn't. I bought the compressor from summit racing and everything else from LMC TRUCK.
10:44 yeah….that’s what she said! 😂
Love it
As soon as I read your comment he said on the vid😂
I think the orifice tube was put in backwards
I thought I put it in the same way the old one came out. It's been working really well these last two summers. I hope it is ok 🙂
@@fultonsgarage6331 I'm not sure how much it matters, just figured that's why it stuck out a bit further than the old one. Kinda hard to tell in the video but I think the old one was yanked out the other way. Still a killer video, using your tips to convert mine!
@@fultonsgarage6331 It's probably OK but the oring side of the orifice tube faces the evaporator.
That thing at the beginning is a muffler.
Did you found that leak?
No, in fact it hasn't leaked at all. I'm thinking my gauge was leaking.
How cold were you able to get it out of your vents at idle?
@gimmefuel7268 I just checked it. It's 95 degrees outside and it blows 56 with the AC on Maximum.
@@fultonsgarage6331 thanks for the reply!! I had the compressor, dryer, & lines replaced in my ‘84 last week. He also installed a new fan clutch in hopes of pulling as much air as possible through the condenser. When it’s about “90ish” outside, & sitting idling, mine was about 60 degrees. I was hoping for around 40’s but I guess that isn’t going to happen. 🤷♂️
I got 33° out of my vent on a 90° day on the same ac system.
Wow, that's cold. I'll need you to come over and give mine a tune-up!
Yeah, and I got 12".
@@fultonsgarage6331 Just put fans with a relay on the condenser. Wire the fan's relay "on when powered" wire to the green wire on the compressor or high pressure switch. The fans will come on when the AC turns on. R134a requires more cooling than R12 and some recommend the newer horizontal condensers. Try the fans first and you should be OK since you're cooling a truck cab vs a larger car interior. Should see around 10 degrees difference with some good fans.
@sbc383zz r12 or r134a? Or possibly propane.. r12 gets cold but only 4 or so° colder than r134a and 134a doesn't get down to 12° unless something is wrong
what about the Blazer.
A video with the Blazer update will be out next week. I am going to try and publish weekly videos.
R22 ?????
You're the first one to catch that. Meant to say R12.
I don’t recommend this guy at all. Beware!
I don't recommend me either.
Do you have info on where you got the upgrade parts? Was it all in a kit?
I bought most of them through Summit racing and some through LMC truck. I thought I posted the part numbers, I can't find them now.