Also quite like happy that well.... Chevy like was smart enough to have the orfice tube serviceable. Great thing too if that does go bad and you dont need a whole brand new line or something.
Hey Mike, you've taken on a big project here. You must really like that old 93 to do this kind of work. And I don't blame you, I love these older trucks.
I have never had working ac on this truck, so I thought it was about time to fix it. I sold my 77 Chevy 3/4 ton truck to buy this one because I wanted a 4x4. Its been a good truck.
Probably the same if they are the same year. But if it were me, I would look up the compressor for both vehicles at napa or any other auto parts store and see if they call for the same compressor for both vehicles. If the parts number is the same, they should fit.
@@mikesworld60 Thanks Mike , but I was talking about same size as in cubic inch or cc’s ( or however A/c compressor’s are rated ) . I know house outside units are rated like 1/2 ton , 1 ton , etc depending on the size of a house. I just think that a suburban with rear air should use a bigger compressor. Thanks again
@@ricardofierro7041 I just looked up a compressor for a 94 suburban and didn't see but one compressor and it didn't seem to ask if the vehicle had rear ac. Then I looked up 94 1/2-ton pickup and the compressor was the same as the suburban, also was the same as the one in my 93 3/4-ton pickup 4x4 K2500. I think they use the same compressor with and without the rear ac. You might want to ask at the auto parts store, but they look to use the same compressor with and without rear ac. Let me know if you find out. Thanks
Well... For me im working on a 98 sonoma.. it is 134a but im replacing everything because now I don't trust it because the the compressor made a ton of racket and yeah the orfice tube did not look pretty. Wish me luck doing all of that to make it work again. Im actually gonna rip apart the compresor see what the heck happened.
I used the ester oil because it is compatible with mineral and pag oil. This way if I did not get all the mineral oil out of the system it would not cause problems. I replaced all the parts except the evaporator and the compressor since the system had been inoperable for years. Probably should have done the compressor at that time. It is still working good today. Good Luck.
@@mikesworld60 that.. that's the other oil I forget about where you can do that too I gotta flush mine now because of the racket mine made and the possible dirt or trash it has in it and it sent it through the system now. Bleh, annoying but yeh I also never knew actually how it was going to run too tho. The previous owner told me that the AC never worked and even he said the owner before him never fixed it either. So it's been like that without a charge for a WHILE I've been actually trying to ask people how theirs in their s10s or Sonomas with the 4 cylinder ac compressor sounds like. No one ever got back to me on that actually, sad. Tho I know they really shouldn't sound like a gun lol. But thanks I will need it for when everything comes in and I fix mine.
Very helpful video for someone like me who is completely new at doing this. I was hoping you could help me with a question: I am converting a 1988 Chevy S10 from a R12 system to R134a. My original compressor was damaged years ago. I removed it and installed a bypass pully. I now have a new compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. I have completely flushed the system to include the evaporator, condenser and all lines. QUESTION: Being that I'm installing a new, pre-oiled compressor, is there any need for me to add oil to any component of the system? If so, what kind of oil and how much? Many thanks for any thoughts!
I'm no expert on this and can only tell you what I would do if it were me. I'm not sure what kind of oil the compressor comes with if it is mineral oil for use with (R12 only) or pag oil that is normally used with R134a. I have heard that sometimes the oil in the new compressor is to protect it until it is used and should be drained out. You may want to check with the compressor manufacture to find out what kind of oil is in it for shipping. There may be instructions that came with it that tell if is ready to be charged as is. Ester oil is compatible with both mineral oil and pag oil and might be the safe bet if you think you may have some mineral oil left in the system. I used Ester oil in mine because I still had some mineral oil in the system since I did not flush the old components, only drained them and blew them out with air. If you know for sure there is no mineral oil in any of the components after flushing the used ones, then I would just use the pag oil. I think they recommend about 1oz of oil for each component and whatever the compressor manufacture says needs to be added to the compressor itself. The Compressor may need 4oz when new when empty. If you don't have enough oil in system, it can damage the compressor. If you have to much oil the system, it may not cool as well as it should. I put on new hoses to the compressor because the old hoses are a good place to get a leak. Apparently the molecules in R134a are smaller that in R12 and can leak right through old hoses or ones that are not designed for R134a. Make sure you change all the Orings with the new green ones. Mine is still running cool and working good and I change everything except the evaporator and the compressor. You do not need to add any oil for the new orifice tube. Make sure when you add oil to the system when it is running when charging that you don't add it directly at the compressor inlet side. The compressor can be damage because it is only to compress gas not liquid and you can damage it because of course you can't compress a liquid. Just add the oil to the system with long enough hose before it gets to the compressor or add the oil to each component before you vac the system and charge it. I used the R134a that does not have oil in it and I used oil that had dye in it so if I had a leak I could find it more easily. When you convert from R12 To R134a you only add around 70 to 80% of what the system takes for R12. I just kept monitoring the temp as I got close to 75%. If you put to much in and overcharge it then it wont cool as good. More is not better. Good Luck!
I use to switch them at a dealer we recovered them removed the oil added new oil and recharged . In some cases we replaced the compressor . But must cases we just put the new valves in switched out the oil and filled them . I guess my question is why replace all those parts . The dryer could be cleaned out . But if you're going to go through everything you did why wouldn't you remove the dash and change the evaporator core that's where most of your oil is going to be stockpiled at anyway from people putting too much oil in AC systems everybody always wants to add oil you don't add oil if it hasn't lost any if you have it changed apart on an AC service when you're recovering the system if it has one ounce of oil collected you only put one ounce in I see people at O'Reilly's all the time feeling their systems full of oil because that's what they tell them to do in most cases if I'm just doing a top off I don't add any oil at all so I'm just curious as to why all those parts got changed out the only thing that will happen on most of those is the seals will start leaking on the compressor and you have to replace the compressor so in most cases we would just go ahead and tell them the compressor had to be changed the vehicle was older and had a lot of miles because we didn't want to repeat return job so we would completely recover the system and let it vacuum down for 30 minutes we would remove the old compressor install the new one putting the appropriate amount of oil in the new compressor we would remove the dryer and just basically blow it out and clean it out very good in some cases you can even squirt some ether down in there and allow it to blow back out to dry out that canister the orifice would get replaced in most cases but in some cases those can be removed cleaned out and put back in as well so my question is why dump all that money into parts were you just trying to freshen everything up
I didn't replace the evaporator because it was not leaking. Since it is in the dash, I knew nothing could get to it like rocks to damage it. The system was empty for a long time. The condenser was in bad shape and leaked. I always like to change the accumulator or air dryer when a system is sitting empty for a long period of time. They are not that expensive, so I always change them. Since this is a conversion, I wanted the best chance for the most cooling. From what I understand the components on a R134a system are usually larger than R12 system. Since the system was designed for R12 sometimes they don't cool as well when they are converted to R134a. The hoses were 28 years old, and I didn't want to end up with a leaking hose. Like all the components were 28 years old. The compressor is the most expensive part, so I took my chance using the original and it seems to be working fine. I will change it if needed but it has been working well since I did the conversion, so I feel lucky the compressor was still ok. I did a conversion on a 1992 e250 and it didn't cool as well as this one did. I had used the same condenser and hoses so I thought I would change most of the parts and see if it made a difference and this conversion cools so much better with the new condenser. If I was fixing an existing R134a system that had not been empty very long, I would replace just the bad parts that caused the leak. I might still replace the drier but that is just me.
It should have a sticker in the engine compartment if the person that did it put one on. The best way would be to look at the high and low side connections and see if it has connections for R12 or 134A.
@@irishuwould5185 Did it change your engine temperature any after getting it fixed? Before mine would cause the temperature to rise. I rebuilt the motor during thanksgiving so I decided to get a fresh a/c done like you. They found all kinds of bad parts. They waiting on parts right now. So im not sure if stock clutch fan which is new will handle the extra strain during summer time.
You can use the same type of compressor your vehicle came with. You need to use ester oil or pag oil for 134a. If the components had r12 and mineral oil in them, you want to empty all the oil from the components because it is mineral oil. The reason to use ester oil is because it is compatible with both oils if you don't get all the mineral oil out. If you use all new components then you can use pag oil.
I'm glad it worked out for you. My system was empty for years and condenser was in bad shape. I did not want to mess around with old parts. They weren't that expensive. It still works great and I'm glad I went the route I did. If you had a system that was working somewhat but just wasn't getting very cold or had just stopped working, I may have done what you did.
Most auto parts stores should have them. I know walmart had them at one time. They are generic just get the kit with the connections for R134A and cans of R134A
love those older trucks , Hi from Alberta Canada just had my 1991 GMC 1500 restored ,and Ill have to do this soon , I'm still using R 12 a , thanks for putting out the video , this is what my truck looks like now , ua-cam.com/video/-BDUuHcDqW4/v-deo.html
The system was empty for many years and had multiple leaks., especially the condenser. It had old o rings and the hoses were in bad shape. It was worth it. I really enjoy having ac in this truck since it never had any since I bought it.
Also quite like happy that well.... Chevy like was smart enough to have the orfice tube serviceable. Great thing too if that does go bad and you dont need a whole brand new line or something.
Hey Mike, you've taken on a big project here. You must really like that old 93 to do this kind of work. And I don't blame you, I love these older trucks.
I have never had working ac on this truck, so I thought it was about time to fix it. I sold my 77 Chevy 3/4 ton truck to buy this one because I wanted a 4x4. Its been a good truck.
I want to convert my 92 someday, its gets a wee bit hot here in the summer
It was sure worth it.
Обажаю американские автомобили!
Можно ремонтировать сидя под капотом) 👍
Yes, lots of room under the hood of the older vehicles. The new cars don't have enough room to climb in.
I have a 94 chevy suburban with rear air. My question is the A/c compressor the same size on the suburban as a 2door regular cab pickup ? Thanks
Probably the same if they are the same year. But if it were me, I would look up the compressor for both vehicles at napa or any other auto parts store and see if they call for the same compressor for both vehicles. If the parts number is the same, they should fit.
@@mikesworld60 Thanks Mike , but I was talking about same size as in cubic inch or cc’s ( or however A/c compressor’s are rated ) . I know house outside units are rated like 1/2 ton , 1 ton , etc depending on the size of a house. I just think that a suburban with rear air should use a bigger compressor. Thanks again
@@ricardofierro7041 I just looked up a compressor for a 94 suburban and didn't see but one compressor and it didn't seem to ask if the vehicle had rear ac. Then I looked up 94 1/2-ton pickup and the compressor was the same as the suburban, also was the same as the one in my 93 3/4-ton pickup 4x4 K2500. I think they use the same compressor with and without the rear ac. You might want to ask at the auto parts store, but they look to use the same compressor with and without rear ac. Let me know if you find out. Thanks
Well... For me im working on a 98 sonoma.. it is 134a but im replacing everything because now I don't trust it because the the compressor made a ton of racket and yeah the orfice tube did not look pretty. Wish me luck doing all of that to make it work again. Im actually gonna rip apart the compresor see what the heck happened.
I used the ester oil because it is compatible with mineral and pag oil. This way if I did not get all the mineral oil out of the system it would not cause problems. I replaced all the parts except the evaporator and the compressor since the system had been inoperable for years. Probably should have done the compressor at that time. It is still working good today. Good Luck.
@@mikesworld60 that.. that's the other oil I forget about where you can do that too I gotta flush mine now because of the racket mine made and the possible dirt or trash it has in it and it sent it through the system now. Bleh, annoying but yeh I also never knew actually how it was going to run too tho. The previous owner told me that the AC never worked and even he said the owner before him never fixed it either. So it's been like that without a charge for a WHILE I've been actually trying to ask people how theirs in their s10s or Sonomas with the 4 cylinder ac compressor sounds like. No one ever got back to me on that actually, sad. Tho I know they really shouldn't sound like a gun lol. But thanks I will need it for when everything comes in and I fix mine.
Very helpful video for someone like me who is completely new at doing this. I was hoping you could help me with a question: I am converting a 1988 Chevy S10 from a R12 system to R134a. My original compressor was damaged years ago. I removed it and installed a bypass pully. I now have a new compressor, accumulator and orifice tube. I have completely flushed the system to include the evaporator, condenser and all lines. QUESTION: Being that I'm installing a new, pre-oiled compressor, is there any need for me to add oil to any component of the system? If so, what kind of oil and how much? Many thanks for any thoughts!
I'm no expert on this and can only tell you what I would do if it were me. I'm not sure what kind of oil the compressor comes with if it is mineral oil for use with (R12 only) or pag oil that is normally used with R134a. I have heard that sometimes the oil in the new compressor is to protect it until it is used and should be drained out. You may want to check with the compressor manufacture to find out what kind of oil is in it for shipping. There may be instructions that came with it that tell if is ready to be charged as is. Ester oil is compatible with both mineral oil and pag oil and might be the safe bet if you think you may have some mineral oil left in the system. I used Ester oil in mine because I still had some mineral oil in the system since I did not flush the old components, only drained them and blew them out with air. If you know for sure there is no mineral oil in any of the components after flushing the used ones, then I would just use the pag oil. I think they recommend about 1oz of oil for each component and whatever the compressor manufacture says needs to be added to the compressor itself. The Compressor may need 4oz when new when empty. If you don't have enough oil in system, it can damage the compressor. If you have to much oil the system, it may not cool as well as it should. I put on new hoses to the compressor because the old hoses are a good place to get a leak. Apparently the molecules in R134a are smaller that in R12 and can leak right through old hoses or ones that are not designed for R134a. Make sure you change all the Orings with the new green ones. Mine is still running cool and working good and I change everything except the evaporator and the compressor. You do not need to add any oil for the new orifice tube. Make sure when you add oil to the system when it is running when charging that you don't add it directly at the compressor inlet side. The compressor can be damage because it is only to compress gas not liquid and you can damage it because of course you can't compress a liquid. Just add the oil to the system with long enough hose before it gets to the compressor or add the oil to each component before you vac the system and charge it. I used the R134a that does not have oil in it and I used oil that had dye in it so if I had a leak I could find it more easily.
When you convert from R12 To R134a you only add around 70 to 80% of what the system takes for R12. I just kept monitoring the temp as I got close to 75%. If you put to much in and overcharge it then it wont cool as good. More is not better. Good Luck!
@@mikesworld60 Many thanks Mike…very helpful! 👍
I use to switch them at a dealer we recovered them removed the oil added new oil and recharged . In some cases we replaced the compressor . But must cases we just put the new valves in switched out the oil and filled them . I guess my question is why replace all those parts . The dryer could be cleaned out . But if you're going to go through everything you did why wouldn't you remove the dash and change the evaporator core that's where most of your oil is going to be stockpiled at anyway from people putting too much oil in AC systems everybody always wants to add oil you don't add oil if it hasn't lost any if you have it changed apart on an AC service when you're recovering the system if it has one ounce of oil collected you only put one ounce in I see people at O'Reilly's all the time feeling their systems full of oil because that's what they tell them to do in most cases if I'm just doing a top off I don't add any oil at all so I'm just curious as to why all those parts got changed out the only thing that will happen on most of those is the seals will start leaking on the compressor and you have to replace the compressor so in most cases we would just go ahead and tell them the compressor had to be changed the vehicle was older and had a lot of miles because we didn't want to repeat return job so we would completely recover the system and let it vacuum down for 30 minutes we would remove the old compressor install the new one putting the appropriate amount of oil in the new compressor we would remove the dryer and just basically blow it out and clean it out very good in some cases you can even squirt some ether down in there and allow it to blow back out to dry out that canister the orifice would get replaced in most cases but in some cases those can be removed cleaned out and put back in as well so my question is why dump all that money into parts were you just trying to freshen everything up
I didn't replace the evaporator because it was not leaking. Since it is in the dash, I knew nothing could get to it like rocks to damage it. The system was empty for a long time. The condenser was in bad shape and leaked. I always like to change the accumulator or air dryer when a system is sitting empty for a long period of time. They are not that expensive, so I always change them. Since this is a conversion, I wanted the best chance for the most cooling. From what I understand the components on a R134a system are usually larger than R12 system. Since the system was designed for R12 sometimes they don't cool as well when they are converted to R134a. The hoses were 28 years old, and I didn't want to end up with a leaking hose. Like all the components were 28 years old. The compressor is the most expensive part, so I took my chance using the original and it seems to be working fine. I will change it if needed but it has been working well since I did the conversion, so I feel lucky the compressor was still ok. I did a conversion on a 1992 e250 and it didn't cool as well as this one did. I had used the same condenser and hoses so I thought I would change most of the parts and see if it made a difference and this conversion cools so much better with the new condenser. If I was fixing an existing R134a system that had not been empty very long, I would replace just the bad parts that caused the leak. I might still replace the drier but that is just me.
I’m about to buy a 94, currently the ac doesn’t work. How do I know if it’s been converted to 134a or not? The seller doesn’t know if it has.
It should have a sticker in the engine compartment if the person that did it put one on. The best way would be to look at the high and low side connections and see if it has connections for R12 or 134A.
Yes sir it’s 134a from the factory. Today it’s getting a whole new system, parts are old and in bad shape, set me back 1350.00
@@irishuwould5185 that’s where im at today around 1200 so far
@@Phuq_it yea pricey but worth it, especially here in south Texas. It’s nice and cold now in my truck🥶
@@irishuwould5185 Did it change your engine temperature any after getting it fixed? Before mine would cause the temperature to rise. I rebuilt the motor during thanksgiving so I decided to get a fresh a/c done like you. They found all kinds of bad parts. They waiting on parts right now. So im not sure if stock clutch fan which is new will handle the extra strain during summer time.
Dang. One of mine is that color.
Do you need a permission to work with AC systems? In Sweden we have to be certifed to able to work with r134a.
No, we can work on our own.
@@mikesworld60 We have so many regulations we almost need a helicopter license to use a electric mixer.
You only need a "license" if you are running a business. That way they make sure they charge you more money in taxes.
@@brandonclark160 because taxes will save the climate didn’t you know that!😂
So my question is , you can’t just throw in q new compressor that takes r134a?
If you can’t what all has to be changed ?
You can use the same type of compressor your vehicle came with. You need to use ester oil or pag oil for 134a. If the components had r12 and mineral oil in them, you want to empty all the oil from the components because it is mineral oil. The reason to use ester oil is because it is compatible with both oils if you don't get all the mineral oil out. If you use all new components then you can use pag oil.
I just replaced the o-rings and added new oil and added the R134a. Never changed out all those parts. Why??
I'm glad it worked out for you. My system was empty for years and condenser was in bad shape. I did not want to mess around with old parts. They weren't that expensive. It still works great and I'm glad I went the route I did. If you had a system that was working somewhat but just wasn't getting very cold or had just stopped working, I may have done what you did.
this would be axactly the same in a 93 c1500 V6 2WD I assume?
I would think so.
Where can i get a conversion kit for my 92 chevy pik up
Most auto parts stores should have them. I know walmart had them at one time. They are generic just get the kit with the connections for R134A and cans of R134A
1:10 is that the low pressure line you're taking off here?
Yes, the low side is on the Accumulator.
What was your final ac temp when everything was converted?
somewhere around 47F
you have to change condensers on ones older than 94 from what i understand the r12 condenser is different
That's what I heard too. Also mine was in bad shape so I changed it. Ac is still nice and cold and works great.
Hey mike i’m doing a conversion on my 92 Silverado so my question is what type a cycle switch you use pressure size
I still have the R12 switch in, but you can order the one for R134a.
love those older trucks , Hi from Alberta Canada just had my 1991 GMC 1500 restored ,and Ill have to do this soon , I'm still using R 12 a , thanks for putting out the video , this is what my truck looks like now , ua-cam.com/video/-BDUuHcDqW4/v-deo.html
I am in Western Washington USA. The AC on this truck has not worked for sometime. I am glad to have it working again.
Geezuz, why not just blow out the system and use a conversion kit with fittings and new oil ?!
The system was empty for many years and had multiple leaks., especially the condenser. It had old o rings and the hoses were in bad shape. It was worth it. I really enjoy having ac in this truck since it never had any since I bought it.