Mate, you really helped me out with this one! My 2010 (post-facelift) s-max suddenly refused to start one cold morning, so naturally I checked out the battery, start relay etc - but all were good. Then when I saw that this car had the same dash as ours and the push-button start, I thought the odds were good that ours had the same issue - and so i lifted the seats and carpets and found a small lake in the rear (behind driver) footwell - it's not immediately obvious due to the raised floor in these cars - quite the puddle can build up before you notice anything. Sure enough, it was coming from the air con housing drain situated on the left hand side of the driver's footwell, near the clutch pedal, and making its way down the hill to the rear (2nd row) footwell, where it had corroded the soldered connection you mention. I have no idea how ours had started previously, because there was nothing left of my wires at all! They were just dust! But after re-stripping and soldering, and drying out the sound proofing and carpets (which takes ages), we have a working car again :) Thanks so much dude.
I think you may have solved my problem. My Galaxy wouldn't crank, but when I let it roll a bit it started. I assume therefore that it must be a dodgy starter motor, as did the garage. When I went to pick it up, it wouldn't start. The mechanic told me to press both the clutch and the brake. It started, but I told him I had never had to do this before and only needed to depress the clutch as normal. Having come across your video, I checked the drivers foot well and found it to be very wet. I will take it back to the garage and get them to investigate the corroded wire. I'm sure that is the problem. Cheers.
You legend! This was the problem exactly and due to a water spillage a few weeks previously. Thank you!!! For reference for others. The weird thing about the problem I was having is that it would start but needed to have both brake and clutch depressed and 2 pushes of the start button. Now all back to normal. Thank you!!!
Can I buy you a beer. You live saver. Our smax had an intermittent start.. slchanged starter, checked clutch switches. Lots of diagnosis with forscan. No dice. Guess what, same wire, same exact place, same exact fault. Same corrosion. That part of the floor always gets damp in ours. We park on a slopes and in summer months I think the ac discharge pipe blocks and sends it to that footwell. Anyway not too much agro to take the seats and trim out to get to. The wire was rotten about 3 inches either side of the joint but obs allowing just enough current for things to work intermittently. Seriously dude. Send me your PayPal if you want and I'll ping you some beer tokens. Rob.
I had a variant of this happen, but another solution. One morning my S-Max was almost "dead" - turning egnition key on, the "blinkers" in the instrument cluster was flashing fast, nothing else. The battery was almost drained, so I recharged it. After that the instrument cluster behaved normal (lights etc.), but when turning the ignition key nothing happens (starter did not turn). So I thought that the issue was possbly as described in this video however, my floor had not been wet. I noticed that the interior lights did not work and neither did the power windows. This pointed me in the direction of the BCM (located below the glove box). Common BCM problems cause "no start", "electrical systems not behaving normal", "immobilizer not working correct", "battery drain" as systems are not shut down properly after driving. I feared that I had to replace the BCM (it is expensive) - but got the thought that it could be a soldering problem (lose soldering or similar due to maybe vibrations) as is often the case with faulty instrument clusters in Fords from these years. My S-Max is a 2008 petrol. I took the BCM out and opened it. There are two print plates inside. What I did was I soldered all the connections (two rows of a lot of "pins") between the two print plates. They are not soldered from the factory - just "pushed" together. I assembled it again and installed the BCM. Everything works again. Hope it can help...
Hopefully you are still monitoring the comments.... I've got 95% of the same conditions featured here, right down to the previous Aircon leak. The 5% difference is that when I trigger the start button... The dash shows "press clutch to start" and that dismisses when I press the clutch (But no response from the engine) Does that mean my clutch wire is likely ok or does that switch feed different modules and there could still be a break? Appreciate your thoughts before I get to ripping it out!
Hi. I'd say if the clutch message goes out when you press the clutch then it5 is probably ok, if the vehicle is not cranking you need to start at the starter motor & work back from there
@@ams-mobileuk7226 Your video has saved another one.... just reporting back to say that.. after noting the clutch notice on dash was actually intermittent, I had a look at the wiring in question.. and bingo! I actually have no idea what Ford were thinking with this connection, they could have added 50p to the build cost and done it in so many better ways.
Hi, I have a Ford Galaxy 2017 auto keyless stop/start system. Before the car started and ran ok, I did an oil,air, and fuel filler service when I about to start the car ,I had ignition, but know crank, brake peddle press and the green light is showing and the start button, when you press it, it flashes and don't start, check all fuses all ok , check starter relay ok , feed 12v to the starter ok, I even check. BCM that ok, now I'm stuck can some help me please
Hi, I have question. Mine does not start because the bottom contact which is ne relay in the fuse box do not have a ground, it is missing. Where should I look for to find grounding.
Yeah hi mate your videos very interesting I've just brought 2.2 and it's doing like the same but 1 minute it will start and then when I to turn it over I get nothing but when I get a jump start it will start straight away so I don't know if you know about that or if it could be the relay thank you
Please help, mine does that, but.... After couple time of pressing the start button, it finally starting the car. And this accurs not every start of the car. May it be just. Relay.?
There is a number of things that could cause this. Best thing to do is find a reputable garage near you & let them take a look. Depending on how intermittent the fault is, it could make it difficult to track down, as the fault needs to replicated when the technician has it
@@ams-mobileuk7226 ok mate thankyou I've just had a similar problem with my smax took it to a garage the bloke has said there was a broken wire behind the dash I was getting blis malfunction low battery immobiliser malfunction.
Mate, you really helped me out with this one! My 2010 (post-facelift) s-max suddenly refused to start one cold morning, so naturally I checked out the battery, start relay etc - but all were good. Then when I saw that this car had the same dash as ours and the push-button start, I thought the odds were good that ours had the same issue - and so i lifted the seats and carpets and found a small lake in the rear (behind driver) footwell - it's not immediately obvious due to the raised floor in these cars - quite the puddle can build up before you notice anything. Sure enough, it was coming from the air con housing drain situated on the left hand side of the driver's footwell, near the clutch pedal, and making its way down the hill to the rear (2nd row) footwell, where it had corroded the soldered connection you mention. I have no idea how ours had started previously, because there was nothing left of my wires at all! They were just dust! But after re-stripping and soldering, and drying out the sound proofing and carpets (which takes ages), we have a working car again :) Thanks so much dude.
I think you may have solved my problem. My Galaxy wouldn't crank, but when I let it roll a bit it started. I assume therefore that it must be a dodgy starter motor, as did the garage. When I went to pick it up, it wouldn't start. The mechanic told me to press both the clutch and the brake. It started, but I told him I had never had to do this before and only needed to depress the clutch as normal. Having come across your video, I checked the drivers foot well and found it to be very wet. I will take it back to the garage and get them to investigate the corroded wire. I'm sure that is the problem. Cheers.
You legend! This was the problem exactly and due to a water spillage a few weeks previously. Thank you!!!
For reference for others. The weird thing about the problem I was having is that it would start but needed to have both brake and clutch depressed and 2 pushes of the start button.
Now all back to normal. Thank you!!!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video, I cheated and cut the carpet so saved a lot of time. 30 min fix and works great. Cheers mate 👍🏻
Thank you, I had this issue and this video saved me money and time,
Can I buy you a beer. You live saver. Our smax had an intermittent start.. slchanged starter, checked clutch switches. Lots of diagnosis with forscan. No dice. Guess what, same wire, same exact place, same exact fault. Same corrosion. That part of the floor always gets damp in ours. We park on a slopes and in summer months I think the ac discharge pipe blocks and sends it to that footwell. Anyway not too much agro to take the seats and trim out to get to. The wire was rotten about 3 inches either side of the joint but obs allowing just enough current for things to work intermittently. Seriously dude. Send me your PayPal if you want and I'll ping you some beer tokens. Rob.
Hi Rob. I'm glad my video helped. Just liking & subscribing is thanks enough. I appreciate the comment. 👍
I had a variant of this happen, but another solution. One morning my S-Max was almost "dead" - turning egnition key on, the "blinkers" in the instrument cluster was flashing fast, nothing else. The battery was almost drained, so I recharged it. After that the instrument cluster behaved normal (lights etc.), but when turning the ignition key nothing happens (starter did not turn). So I thought that the issue was possbly as described in this video however, my floor had not been wet. I noticed that the interior lights did not work and neither did the power windows. This pointed me in the direction of the BCM (located below the glove box). Common BCM problems cause "no start", "electrical systems not behaving normal", "immobilizer not working correct", "battery drain" as systems are not shut down properly after driving. I feared that I had to replace the BCM (it is expensive) - but got the thought that it could be a soldering problem (lose soldering or similar due to maybe vibrations) as is often the case with faulty instrument clusters in Fords from these years. My S-Max is a 2008 petrol. I took the BCM out and opened it. There are two print plates inside. What I did was I soldered all the connections (two rows of a lot of "pins") between the two print plates. They are not soldered from the factory - just "pushed" together. I assembled it again and installed the BCM. Everything works again. Hope it can help...
Superb job sir.well done
Excellant wee video
Hopefully you are still monitoring the comments.... I've got 95% of the same conditions featured here, right down to the previous Aircon leak. The 5% difference is that when I trigger the start button... The dash shows "press clutch to start" and that dismisses when I press the clutch (But no response from the engine) Does that mean my clutch wire is likely ok or does that switch feed different modules and there could still be a break? Appreciate your thoughts before I get to ripping it out!
Hi. I'd say if the clutch message goes out when you press the clutch then it5 is probably ok, if the vehicle is not cranking you need to start at the starter motor & work back from there
@@ams-mobileuk7226 Your video has saved another one.... just reporting back to say that.. after noting the clutch notice on dash was actually intermittent, I had a look at the wiring in question.. and bingo! I actually have no idea what Ford were thinking with this connection, they could have added 50p to the build cost and done it in so many better ways.
Good work ,how many ford garages would have failed on that one🤔
Hi, I have a Ford Galaxy 2017 auto keyless stop/start system. Before the car started and ran ok, I did an oil,air, and fuel filler service when I about to start the car ,I had ignition, but know crank, brake peddle press and the green light is showing and the start button, when you press it, it flashes and don't start, check all fuses all ok , check starter relay ok , feed 12v to the starter ok, I even check. BCM that ok, now I'm stuck can some help me please
Hey any chance of a wiring diagram? Also man your good at your job. You should make more videos.
Great video buddy, was at one today and it was the same thing
Aye can confirm that mine had same fault.
Hi, I have question. Mine does not start because the bottom contact which is ne relay in the fuse box do not have a ground, it is missing. Where should I look for to find grounding.
Yeah hi mate your videos very interesting I've just brought 2.2 and it's doing like the same but 1 minute it will start and then when I to turn it over I get nothing but when I get a jump start it will start straight away so I don't know if you know about that or if it could be the relay thank you
Did you get to the bottom of this?
Please help, mine does that, but.... After couple time of pressing the start button, it finally starting the car. And this accurs not every start of the car. May it be just. Relay.?
There is a number of things that could cause this. Best thing to do is find a reputable garage near you & let them take a look. Depending on how intermittent the fault is, it could make it difficult to track down, as the fault needs to replicated when the technician has it
My boot keeps opening the last few days and now won’t start could this be related
Doubtful. You have an electrical problem. Best to get it diagnosed correctly by a technician chap
What faults show up on dash for this problem anyone know please
Hi Ryan. There were no faults on the dash & no faults stored in the management systems
@@ams-mobileuk7226 ok mate thankyou I've just had a similar problem with my smax took it to a garage the bloke has said there was a broken wire behind the dash I was getting blis malfunction low battery immobiliser malfunction.
Did he fix this as.mine.doing through same.thing
Yes it was fixed. If you see the 2nd video you'll see it back to running
@Ams-Mobile Uk on.mine you can hear the relay clicking but no start but start is new and I can see the other vid
chris come on dude, a simple data steam should have got you and you customer fixed u0p so much sooner, Live Data = clutch position.