Or you can buy some great waxed jackets here: -Flint and Tinder: prf.hn/l/7EvkaOo -Tom Beckbe Jacket: bit.ly/2QpCo8w -Freenote Cloth: bit.ly/3ynU1eJ -Rogue Territory: bit.ly/3uzs82h -3 Sixteen: bit.ly/3In5KP8
Now that I have finished hacking my lungs from laughing too hard... Dance rush to the speaker that booms, I'm killin your brain like a poisonous mushroom.
I've done a few denim jackets. A trick I use is to put the waxed coat in a smallish nylon bag and toss it in the dryer on the high setting for awhile. No need to run a hairdryer on it. The dryer handles that part and it turns out really good too.
The problem with the Carhartt duck fabric is that it isn't tighly woven & you need tightly woven cotton or canvas for it to be rainproof once waxed. The wax may prevent the fibres from absorbing water but it can't fill in the gaps between the threads & so rain will come through.
I’ve done it with a dollar store candle and a heat gun. I usually do like 3 coats. Worked pretty good The process is called tinning. So you’ll have a tin jacket.
The can product , melting in a pot , is pretty much the same thing as the wax / linseed oil mix that you mentioned earlier . The wax/linseed mix is much less expensive though plus you can add an essential oil for scent control if you like that sort of thing .
Waxing certain garments is a good idea, style aside. I have a musette bag that I've waxed. It's made it more durable, and it keeps things dry when it's raining or snowing.
This also applies to leather. I beeswaxed a pair of Clark's Desert Boots I thrifted, and alternated between rubbing it down with a block of beeswax, making quick, gentle passes over a stove burner, and rubbing in any clumps to even out the uneven spots. Now they look fantastic, and you don't have to worry about waterspots anymore. :)
I have waxed a 3xl long Carhartt jacket. It took 5 fans of Filson's oil wax. I used a iron to warm the fabric and when done, let it sit in the sun a few days. Good results
When I first joined the British army, late 70s, I treated my first combat jacket with wax proofer to waterproof it. It worked extremely well, but it showed up in infra red so sadly so it wasn't a good idea for operational use.
Interesting, I was curious how wax and silicone spray treatments would affect the NIR compatibility of combat uniforms. I would think that silicone sprays like Scotchgard or Camp Dry would be even worse, and they don't seem to last as long as a good wax treatment. Unfortunately I have been able to find anyone on the Internet who has tested this and I don't have the high dollar equipment to try it myself.
I was at a Filson store, where they allow you to rewax your stuff. They were pretty adamant about proper heating of the garment. A hair dryer just doesn't get hot enough. You need to use a heat gun to get the proper heat into the fabric which will ensure the wax is fully absorbed.
Hi. Today, I made my own wax from 1 pint of chipped bees wax,1 pint of chipped candle wax, and quarter pint of Baby oil. Heat it and mix it all up,then tip into suitable moulds to make separate blocks. Wait til it’s set, then rub it all over the garment. Then hit it with a heat gun set on hot. It will melt it on the fibres. You may have to do it twice, so,e times 3 times, to achieve an all over even finish, but I found it more satisfying making my own product. All the best. 👍🏾🇬🇧
I have a Magellan green barn jacket. I used the otter wax"bar" threw it in the dryer and I am extremely happy with it! It looks amazing and it sheds wet weather like no one's business!!
Thanks! My wife does alot of out running during Crossfit. I bet she'd love it if I waxed a pair of her favorite Lulu Lemon pants. She's gonna love it! I'll let you know how it turns out!
Dunno if you're serious, but while waxing doesn't add a significant amount of weight, it does get really still when it's cold. Particularly if it's cold and wet out.
I bought a canvas LL Bean Field Coat for duck hunting. I used Sno-Seal boot wax. Just went section by section and rubbed it in with my fingers. Looks great, wears great. Crawl around in the marsh hunting and hose it off at the end of the day. People are always calling it a leather coat!?!
I took a large white candle drilled a hole and ran a bolt thru it. Then attached to my power drill and applied it to jacket. After i used a paint stripper to heat and soak in. Turn out great and works well for hunting. Coat is much warmer.
Be sure to pay attention to the seams. Depending on how and the type of thread used to assemble the garment will determine how much product you will need to fully "charge" the seams and get them to be waterproof. I've worked with duck, canvas and other tent-type fabrics and threads for the better part of 30 years (I make outer wear as well as tenting). Do not expect 100% waterproofing the first try especially if it is your first-ever try with this. I recommend spraying with cold water AFTER the treatment has dried. Allow some short-term water pooling especially at the seams (15 to 30 seconds to start). WARM the fabric good and warm to the touch and easily melts the product, but NOT so hot you cannot leave your hand on it (too hot and and you could damage the stitching or insulating layer). Strive for an even colour. This is a direct indication of an even waterproofing treatment. Minor variations in colour are normal due to aging or well worn areas. Be patient. A rush job is ALWAYS a poor job. Well invested time will give you a product that you can use and trust to keep dry for many years. Good luck.
Subscribed after watching 2 videos. You're a BOSS! FYI, I lived in Cochabamba, Bolivia for 4 years. The city is in a valley that has the Andes mountains to the north south and west and a rainforest to the east. The indigenous people would show us how to collect alpaca wool in the mountains then come down to the valley and make a thick coat which they would wax with a natural wax but I don't recall what it was made of.a trick they used to make the job easier was to run the wax through a cheese grater on the fine side. The temperature in that City never got higher than 74 degrees, so they built a greenhouse with plastic and once it got warm inside they would sprinkle on the grated wax and then would use a TIGHTLY rolled up ball of alpaca wool to rub the wax into the garment. they would leave the garment in there and flip it over once every hour or two and apply more wax as they saw fit. I'm a give that a try on some of my jackets. Figured I would pass along the tip.
One tip is to do the job on a hot summer day (yes we do get them in the UK now and then...) and spread the jacket out in the sun to warm up. Hairdryer is essential, and a sponge is a good applicator. Pay special attention to seams, especially around the shoulders, and be prepared for annual re-treatment if you wear the item quite a bit. From an English Barbour fan.
That bar of wax needs to be on your “Wall of Shame” for not cooperating. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Looked super clean. Expected it to look splotchy due to inevitable uneven wax application.
I had to re-wax my workman's coat and duster. It takes a lot of wax to go over these coats. Instead of a brush I used a sponge. I also went through a can twice the size of that one.
the oil/wax with a brush method works well to make oil cloth tarps where it's thin enough for the oil to penetrate the cloth. They normally add a fast evaporating solvent to aid in getting it in there
I’ve used Johnson floor wax paste to wax canvas tents, it has a strong kerosene smell at first so you have to let the thinner evaporate out before you heat the fabric to get the wax really absorbed.
I’ve used otter wax. Very labor intensive but the results are adequate. I’ve done bags and rucksacks. Heat helps. I’ve worked under a heat generating work light. Not a heat lamp. Just a light that generates heat.
Interesting topic. Got my attention when you mentioned you were an electrician apprentice. I was too years ago & fresh out of college. Glad I found this place.
The jackets are typically a 10 to 12 ounce duck canvas, where the pants are a 14 to 16 ounce. You can get jackets in the 16 ounce, but those cost a little more. Depending on the environment you work in, the added cost is worth it.
Paint the melted wax on with a paintbrush. Place the jacket in a pillow case and put it in the tumble drier for about an hour. I do this for my Barbour and my Driza- bone jackets. Don’t use a new pillow case and don’t put anything else in the drier with the pillow case. I have done this for years and it works great.
Dang it...sorry for the third post but I forgot one more thing. The first time you wax it, the fabric SUCKS IT ALL IN. Big time. The second time and beyond, you'll use way way less. I always get a big can of the liquid wax, and it'll last for 2 waxings. The first one (on a new, dry jacket) will take 2/3 of the can. The second coat takes the last third or most of it. Then I buy a new can that lasts 3 years'ish.
I was always thinking about doing this to my Carhart jacket but im scared I will mess it up. I love that jacket. It's getting softer and softer and you can't replace that comfort and wear.
An iron won't evenly distribute the wax, and you'll get a lot of smoke. I wouldn't recommend. Also, don't stick it in the dryer. Some of the wax will melt into the machine, and it'll get into your other clothes. You don't want waxed towels. If you're doing a lot of this kind of thing, you might want to invest in an industrial hot air blower.
Awesome video, I have the same jacket that is 16years old that I got when I was in my apprenticeship as a carpenter I will try out and see how the results will come out
I’ve done this several times with cotton jackets and cotton or canvas bags I own. Otter Wax is my go-to brand but I have also used Barbour. But here’s the deal: you get MUCH better results from letting the fabric cure for at least 48 hours after you have waxed it. Then hit it with the dryer. And yeah, you need a ton of wax to do a jacket properly. Totally worth it though. Also, is that a bottle of Pilot Iroshizuku ink on your writing desk?
I went to Michael's craft store and got a bar of bee's and paraffin wax. Melted them together. Didn't add any oil, like mineral oil, probably should have but it worked great! The jacket is very stiff but it breaking in well!
Have you considered heating the jacket? like just putting the whole thing in the oven at 200F on a baking sheet? and applying it as soon as you take it out?
You can actually buy wax for jackets from a company called barbour which are also the premier waxed jacket maker made in england I have a couple myself.The wax is also very easy to apply you just rub it in with your hand and melt it in with a blow dryer or by the fire.
So I’m guessing I should not do this to a jacket that will be in the heat or around sparks? Plant worker soaked my jacket and welding rod today; waterproof would be nice, but extra flammable is a big no no. I light myself on fire enough as is. TLDR: is the jacket now quite flammable? Because it looks like it is.
Those wrinkles that you like on that jacket are now fabric weak points that will eventually become holes. Barbour and Filson jacket owners know this from years of stitching up small rips. As owner of both that’s been waxed numerous times I can assure you that reapplying doesn’t get any easier; you just get better at it. Besides liquifying the wax, you should be heating the cloth in sections before you apply the wax- then heat the same area again after just waxing. I suggest that you do not use a brush to apply anymore because it doesn’t generate any friction on the material- take an old piece of cotton cloth like an old wash cloth and completely soak it with the wax, then rub it into the jacket. Once the jacket is done put on wishbone wood hanger, zip it up the take the blow dryer and heat it up again and use the soaked cloth to smooth the wax out.
I have waxed multiple pairs of hiking boots and shoes when I need a heavy duty durable waterproofing. I used the type of wax they cover cheese in to preserve it.
Hawk Tools sells Fabric Wax designed to last for years. We use a proprietary mixture of Beeswax, Natural Oils and Pine Tar that leave a durable and water proof layer on most any blended or canvas fabric.
I bought bulk beeswax, mixed it with paraffin in an empty can, boiled in a pot of water. Painted it on and evened it out with a heat gun. Took me 90 minutes but it’s really got a layer in there now. Not sure I like the new look but I’m gonna wear it and see if it breaks in and gets a nice patina. Good luck yall
What about sending it out? For years I sent out my Filson wax jackets to New England Re-Proofing every few years for routine maintenance. I believe they dip the garment. It wasn't expensive and they did a great job.
P.S. the way i use my otter wax is to do it in the summer, but i'll let it sit in the hot sun for several hours. Then hit it with the liquid wax. Then a blow drier to sink it in more.....while I'm blow drying it I'll brush it in. Lasts a couple of years of average (not heavy) use. Giddyup, sir.
No surprise that waxing started with sailors. Wax and tar were used aboard ship, to waterproof not only sails, but also clothes and hats. Hope it turned out alright?
It did! I actually made a follow up to this video where I show the final product and show you how it looks completed. It really seems that so many of our “modern” techniques find their roots in military or workwear.
Bees Wax blocks melted in a double boilers does the same thing. If you mix 1lb of bees wax, 8oz boiled lin seed oil and 8 oz oderless mineral spirits (wax was melted) it hardens into a balm and you can spread it on and use a heat gun which is quicker than a hair dryer.
You can use candle wax too it's not that bad and also you can just rub it on but put it in the dryer after rubbing it on do it several times you'll end up with the same result. I have several bags and pants I use this on
Hello i'm getting into waxing my clothes I was wondering if they're was a way to wax a white shirt do not get it to turn To dark Trying to prevent the wet t shirt look I go to sports events in some times he is wearing a snow area they have game cold white outs that we weigh it where our white t shirts too and I Am one of those people that instantly as soon as I put the shirt on somehow I get a mess on It
SNOWSEAL… (or something like that. Blue and white jar. Hardware store. About one can per jacket or a few vests. I put it on everything. Vintage to cheep fashion. Looks great. Color test always is a cool color. And light colors look still light, dark gets darker. Made a purple China vest into a deep mahogany. And salvaged a white designer puffer for a few more years.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS! I have been looking for years on a good way to make "Duck Cloth" and this is just what I needed. Keep up the content! Instant sub, love the sense of humor too. Ciao
I would go heavy with the bar around all the stitching seams, heat all the seams and seal that adding more where you need to. I'd then do the rest of the material with the (possibly second) bar or heated tin of wax.
Use a silicone naptha mix and paint it on with a paint brush takes minutes and lasts for decades. Bed sheets treated this way turn into waterproof tarps that last for years outside.
I just stumbled across the video and liked it. I looked through the comments and didn't see any one mention using a clothes dryer. I figure you can paint it turn it inside out put it in an old pillow case and run it through a short dryer cycle. I might try it with some old work pants.
Have a couple pair of boots I use mink oil on, seems to be the same concept. Met several that use Pig lard to do the same thing. Wonder if throwing that jacket in the drier would have made a difference.
Use an ironing board where you iron your clothes instead of a table. And then use an... semi hot iron. Just use the hair dryer for the bits you can’t get to with the iron
an iron yes, thank you...i was breaking my head over how to do this since i don't own a heat gun or a hair dryer or anything...heat from an iron should work...hopefully (if you've done this before, any tips to ensure i don't set the wax on fire?)
It’s worth mentioning the reason you heated the can of wax over water, instead of heating wax directly on the stove. The water keeps the wax from getting hot enough to combust. A can of wax spewing flames is the last thing you want in your kitchen. (Boiling water stays at a constant temperature of about 212 F or 100C, until all the water boils away.)
I've used Otterwax, Fjallraven G1000 wax and Filson wax. Filson is by far the easiest to use and best smelling. The Otterwax is my least favorite of them. Make sure to use a heat gun to get the fabric hot enough and I generally do 2-4 coats on the first go round.
Ty I bought a pair of Jean's for 150 ( I know) and even tho I followed wash instructions all the wax came off. So now I can breathe life back in them ty again
Or you can buy some great waxed jackets here:
-Flint and Tinder: prf.hn/l/7EvkaOo
-Tom Beckbe Jacket: bit.ly/2QpCo8w
-Freenote Cloth: bit.ly/3ynU1eJ
-Rogue Territory: bit.ly/3uzs82h
-3 Sixteen: bit.ly/3In5KP8
I was actually looking for Vanilla ice's tutorial on how to wax a chump. But this was interesting too.
Pro tip: wax that chump like a candle. Ya welcome.
Now that I have finished hacking my lungs from laughing too hard... Dance rush to the speaker that booms, I'm killin your brain like a poisonous mushroom.
A yo word to your mother!
😂
🤣🤣🤣
I've done a few denim jackets. A trick I use is to put the waxed coat in a smallish nylon bag and toss it in the dryer on the high setting for awhile. No need to run a hairdryer on it. The dryer handles that part and it turns out really good too.
According to Wikipedia, waxed cotton needs to be rewaxed annually and not put away wet but slowly dried before putting away.
Just like a pair of leather boots, they need to be reconditioned
The problem with the Carhartt duck fabric is that it isn't tighly woven & you need tightly woven cotton or canvas for it to be rainproof once waxed. The wax may prevent the fibres from absorbing water but it can't fill in the gaps between the threads & so rain will come through.
I’ve done it with a dollar store candle and a heat gun. I usually do like 3 coats. Worked pretty good
The process is called tinning. So you’ll have a tin jacket.
Candle wax is especially good for the seams.
The can product , melting in a pot , is pretty much the same thing as the wax / linseed oil mix that you mentioned earlier . The wax/linseed mix is much less expensive though plus you can add an essential oil for scent control if you like that sort of thing .
Waxing certain garments is a good idea, style aside. I have a musette bag that I've waxed. It's made it more durable, and it keeps things dry when it's raining or snowing.
This also applies to leather.
I beeswaxed a pair of Clark's Desert Boots I thrifted, and alternated between rubbing it down with a block of beeswax, making quick, gentle passes over a stove burner, and rubbing in any clumps to even out the uneven spots. Now they look fantastic, and you don't have to worry about waterspots anymore. :)
I have waxed a 3xl long Carhartt jacket. It took 5 fans of Filson's oil wax. I used a iron to warm the fabric and when done, let it sit in the sun a few days. Good results
Robert Lynn gonna have to try this one. The sun is a great idea
Use a heat gun.
Do you machine wash it?
When I first joined the British army, late 70s, I treated my first combat jacket with wax proofer to waterproof it. It worked extremely well, but it showed up in infra red so sadly so it wasn't a good idea for operational use.
Interesting, I was curious how wax and silicone spray treatments would affect the NIR compatibility of combat uniforms. I would think that silicone sprays like Scotchgard or Camp Dry would be even worse, and they don't seem to last as long as a good wax treatment. Unfortunately I have been able to find anyone on the Internet who has tested this and I don't have the high dollar equipment to try it myself.
I was at a Filson store, where they allow you to rewax your stuff. They were pretty adamant about proper heating of the garment. A hair dryer just doesn't get hot enough. You need to use a heat gun to get the proper heat into the fabric which will ensure the wax is fully absorbed.
Really depends on the hair dryer. Heat gun can be too hot.
@Admin-lm7bw the good Wagner heat guns are much more adjustable in heat settings then a hair dryer
A hair dryer does work. You just need patience and hold it close.
Hi.
Today, I made my own wax from 1 pint of chipped bees wax,1 pint of chipped candle wax, and quarter pint of Baby oil.
Heat it and mix it all up,then tip into suitable moulds to make separate blocks.
Wait til it’s set, then rub it all over the garment. Then hit it with a heat gun set on hot.
It will melt it on the fibres.
You may have to do it twice, so,e times 3 times, to achieve an all over even finish, but I found it more satisfying making my own product.
All the best. 👍🏾🇬🇧
I have a Magellan green barn jacket. I used the otter wax"bar" threw it in the dryer and I am extremely happy with it! It looks amazing and it sheds wet weather like no one's business!!
I’m making a pair of waxed paper boxers. Keeping it fresh.
Lol!
you twisted bastard you
I’m not seeing a video link... so you plunked out and never did it?
Rick Sanchez C137, It was more of a fun experiment but if it’ll make a difference I’ll make a pair
JohnnyArt Pavlou .......and they won’t leak!
Thanks! My wife does alot of out running during Crossfit. I bet she'd love it if I waxed a pair of her favorite Lulu Lemon pants. She's gonna love it! I'll let you know how it turns out!
Hahahaha oh my god do it!
MrTrenttness lol
Please make a vid of her running, or at least attempting to, while wearing them lmao!
Bro if you do that you’ll be sleeping on the couch for a week
Dunno if you're serious, but while waxing doesn't add a significant amount of weight, it does get really still when it's cold. Particularly if it's cold and wet out.
I bought a canvas LL Bean Field Coat for duck hunting. I used Sno-Seal boot wax. Just went section by section and rubbed it in with my fingers. Looks great, wears great. Crawl around in the marsh hunting and hose it off at the end of the day.
People are always calling it a leather coat!?!
Can’t figure it out. Whenever I search YT for an interesting outdoor craft project idea - I get Carl! Must just be an awesome channel.
Hahaha I hope so!!
I took a large white candle drilled a hole and ran a bolt thru it. Then attached to my power drill and applied it to jacket. After i used a paint stripper to heat and soak in. Turn out great and works well for hunting. Coat is much warmer.
ONLY boil your wax in Brita filtered water
When I saw that, all I could think "look who thinks they're fancy?"
Be sure to pay attention to the seams. Depending on how and the type of thread used to assemble the garment will determine how much product you will need to fully "charge" the seams and get them to be waterproof. I've worked with duck, canvas and other tent-type fabrics and threads for the better part of 30 years (I make outer wear as well as tenting). Do not expect 100% waterproofing the first try especially if it is your first-ever try with this. I recommend spraying with cold water AFTER the treatment has dried. Allow some short-term water pooling especially at the seams (15 to 30 seconds to start). WARM the fabric good and warm to the touch and easily melts the product, but NOT so hot you cannot leave your hand on it (too hot and and you could damage the stitching or insulating layer). Strive for an even colour. This is a direct indication of an even waterproofing treatment. Minor variations in colour are normal due to aging or well worn areas. Be patient. A rush job is ALWAYS a poor job. Well invested time will give you a product that you can use and trust to keep dry for many years.
Good luck.
Excellent tips, thank you!
Is the otter wax fresh-squeezed?
Lol!
It’s very hard to get the wax out of an otter, there’s a whole courting process.
Yep. Also 10% of fresh-squeezed baby oil added for better absorption.
And completely organic non gmo
This made me laugh so much.
Put a heating pad under the sections you are doing to keep the garmet warm, pull it taught and pin it down, lets the wax flow right in.
Subscribed after watching 2 videos. You're a BOSS! FYI, I lived in Cochabamba, Bolivia for 4 years. The city is in a valley that has the Andes mountains to the north south and west and a rainforest to the east. The indigenous people would show us how to collect alpaca wool in the mountains then come down to the valley and make a thick coat which they would wax with a natural wax but I don't recall what it was made of.a trick they used to make the job easier was to run the wax through a cheese grater on the fine side. The temperature in that City never got higher than 74 degrees, so they built a greenhouse with plastic and once it got warm inside they would sprinkle on the grated wax and then would use a TIGHTLY rolled up ball of alpaca wool to rub the wax into the garment. they would leave the garment in there and flip it over once every hour or two and apply more wax as they saw fit. I'm a give that a try on some of my jackets. Figured I would pass along the tip.
One tip is to do the job on a hot summer day (yes we do get them in the UK now and then...) and spread the jacket out in the sun to warm up. Hairdryer is essential, and a sponge is a good applicator. Pay special attention to seams, especially around the shoulders, and be prepared for annual re-treatment if you wear the item quite a bit. From an English Barbour fan.
Good call!
I wore a Hardy for years, rewaxing was a Fall ritual for me. Hardy wax was the best.
That bar of wax needs to be on your “Wall of Shame” for not cooperating. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Looked super clean. Expected it to look splotchy due to inevitable uneven wax application.
It does!
They, the sailors, used to call it oil skins.
that's actually a different thing called oilcloth. made with boiled linseed oil. sailors probably used whale oil.
I had to re-wax my workman's coat and duster. It takes a lot of wax to go over these coats. Instead of a brush I used a sponge. I also went through a can twice the size of that one.
The waxing of the sails was also to preserve the sails from rot as well. I’ve never heard the part about the sails being wet
the oil/wax with a brush method works well to make oil cloth tarps where it's thin enough for the oil to penetrate the cloth. They normally add a fast evaporating solvent to aid in getting it in there
I’ve used Johnson floor wax paste to wax canvas tents, it has a strong kerosene smell at first so you have to let the thinner evaporate out before you heat the fabric to get the wax really absorbed.
I’ve used otter wax. Very labor intensive but the results are adequate. I’ve done bags and rucksacks. Heat helps. I’ve worked under a heat generating work light. Not a heat lamp. Just a light that generates heat.
Interesting topic. Got my attention when you mentioned you were an electrician apprentice. I was too years ago & fresh out of college. Glad I found this place.
Yes sir, I’ve been in the trade ever since. Now as a project manager, but I spent plenty of time getting to know my linesman pliers!
The jackets are typically a 10 to 12 ounce duck canvas, where the pants are a 14 to 16 ounce. You can get jackets in the 16 ounce, but those cost a little more. Depending on the environment you work in, the added cost is worth it.
Breath new life into it by making it unbreathable😅 I'm definitely trying this! Awesome videos, Sir.
Paint the melted wax on with a paintbrush. Place the jacket in a pillow case and put it in the tumble drier for about an hour. I do this for my Barbour and my Driza- bone jackets. Don’t use a new pillow case and don’t put anything else in the drier with the pillow case. I have done this for years and it works great.
What heat setting in the dryer?
Dang it...sorry for the third post but I forgot one more thing. The first time you wax it, the fabric SUCKS IT ALL IN. Big time. The second time and beyond, you'll use way way less. I always get a big can of the liquid wax, and it'll last for 2 waxings. The first one (on a new, dry jacket) will take 2/3 of the can. The second coat takes the last third or most of it. Then I buy a new can that lasts 3 years'ish.
Good call man, thanks for the tips!
I was always thinking about doing this to my Carhart jacket but im scared I will mess it up. I love that jacket. It's getting softer and softer and you can't replace that comfort and wear.
Would have been good to see what it looked like on, before and after
Just ended up back here again. Hi past me.
Pick up an old iron from the thrift store. One with no holes (steaming) low setting. Much faster then hair dryer
I see that bottle of Iroshizuku! Excellent choice, Carl. Love your videos!
Thank you!!
Instead of a hairdryer I used an old iron. It worked way faster than when I used a hairdryer and you can work the wax better into the seams.
Great tip! This took forever...
An iron won't evenly distribute the wax, and you'll get a lot of smoke. I wouldn't recommend.
Also, don't stick it in the dryer. Some of the wax will melt into the machine, and it'll get into your other clothes. You don't want waxed towels.
If you're doing a lot of this kind of thing, you might want to invest in an industrial hot air blower.
Cheap heat gun on low or from a further distance works like a charm
Heat gun would've worked better....
Use the brush method and then use an iron made for waxing skis. They stay at a lower temperature, designed for waxing. No smoke.
Awesome video, I have the same jacket that is 16years old that I got when I was in my apprenticeship as a carpenter I will try out and see how the results will come out
Worth noting that Barbour uses 4oz or 6oz cotton as the base. 12oz denim/canvas is going to be way to "thirsty".
I’ve done this several times with cotton jackets and cotton or canvas bags I own. Otter Wax is my go-to brand but I have also used Barbour. But here’s the deal: you get MUCH better results from letting the fabric cure for at least 48 hours after you have waxed it. Then hit it with the dryer. And yeah, you need a ton of wax to do a jacket properly. Totally worth it though. Also, is that a bottle of Pilot Iroshizuku ink on your writing desk?
The lone woodman has a very in depth video about what types of wax and oils work well for waxing canvas and other fabrics.
If you wanted to still use the bar wax method I think you could use a hair dryer to liquify it and it would soak into the fabric
I went to Michael's craft store and got a bar of bee's and paraffin wax. Melted them together. Didn't add any oil, like mineral oil, probably should have but it worked great! The jacket is very stiff but it breaking in well!
At 3:39 is that an Iroshizuku ink bottle?
Good Idea ! Canvas the Underrated Product
I have an old and faded Carhartt jacket too that will get the same treatment. Thanks!
Have you considered heating the jacket? like just putting the whole thing in the oven at 200F on a baking sheet? and applying it as soon as you take it out?
You can actually buy wax for jackets from a company called barbour which are also the premier waxed jacket maker made in england I have a couple myself.The wax is also very easy to apply you just rub it in with your hand and melt it in with a blow dryer or by the fire.
I used a propane heater to melt it. Made the process a lot faster. Only get it close enough to melt the wax.
So I’m guessing I should not do this to a jacket that will be in the heat or around sparks? Plant worker soaked my jacket and welding rod today; waterproof would be nice, but extra flammable is a big no no. I light myself on fire enough as is.
TLDR: is the jacket now quite flammable? Because it looks like it is.
Those wrinkles that you like on that jacket are now fabric weak points that will eventually become holes. Barbour and Filson jacket owners know this from years of stitching up small rips. As owner of both that’s been waxed numerous times I can assure you that reapplying doesn’t get any easier; you just get better at it. Besides liquifying the wax, you should be heating the cloth in sections before you apply the wax- then heat the same area again after just waxing. I suggest that you do not use a brush to apply anymore because it doesn’t generate any friction on the material- take an old piece of cotton cloth like an old wash cloth and completely soak it with the wax, then rub it into the jacket. Once the jacket is done put on wishbone wood hanger, zip it up the take the blow dryer and heat it up again and use the soaked cloth to smooth the wax out.
I have waxed multiple pairs of hiking boots and shoes when I need a heavy duty durable waterproofing. I used the type of wax they cover cheese in to preserve it.
Really? Have you tried Obenaufs?
No sir. Unsure of the name of it, only sure of it's primary use.
Hawk Tools sells Fabric Wax designed to last for years. We use a
proprietary mixture of Beeswax, Natural Oils and Pine Tar that leave a
durable and water proof layer on most any blended or canvas fabric.
I bought bulk beeswax, mixed it with paraffin in an empty can, boiled in a pot of water. Painted it on and evened it out with a heat gun. Took me 90 minutes but it’s really got a layer in there now. Not sure I like the new look but I’m gonna wear it and see if it breaks in and gets a nice patina. Good luck yall
Can you wax a jacket like waxing a snowboard? Just drip wax by pressing the bar against an iron, then ironing the wax around the get an even coat?
Beeswax a Parfen wax,50/50 blend works well
The bar is tedious but less messy. I rub it on and then use parchment paper and an iron to even it out.
Put your jacket in the oven @ 175 for 5 mins then apply wax. The garment will soak it all up and not be a mess.
What about sending it out? For years I sent out my Filson wax jackets to New England Re-Proofing every few years for routine maintenance. I believe they dip the garment. It wasn't expensive and they did a great job.
I didn’t even know this was an option! I’ll have to check them out and see what the process is like!
suburban sentinel My husband and I have been using them for years an all our Carhartt Filson Barbour we have sent to them!!
I'ma take mine to shop. But many thanks for showing how to maintain the waxed canvas buddy.
No problem 👍
I used a huge bar of wax on a small cotton canvas messenger bag. Takes tons of wax. It is very stiff. I dont like that part but it looks great.
Was that a bottle of Pilot Iroshizuku fountain pen ink on your desk?
Good eye!
Hey Carl. Do you have any tips on how to wax suede boots without completely flattening the nap? It might be a silly question but asking anyway!
P.S. the way i use my otter wax is to do it in the summer, but i'll let it sit in the hot sun for several hours. Then hit it with the liquid wax. Then a blow drier to sink it in more.....while I'm blow drying it I'll brush it in. Lasts a couple of years of average (not heavy) use. Giddyup, sir.
No surprise that waxing started with sailors. Wax and tar were used aboard ship, to waterproof not only sails, but also clothes and hats. Hope it turned out alright?
It did! I actually made a follow up to this video where I show the final product and show you how it looks completed.
It really seems that so many of our “modern” techniques find their roots in military or workwear.
Bees Wax blocks melted in a double boilers does the same thing. If you mix 1lb of bees wax, 8oz boiled lin seed oil and 8 oz oderless mineral spirits (wax was melted) it hardens into a balm and you can spread it on and use a heat gun which is quicker than a hair dryer.
I live in Vancouver b.c. (raincouver) is our winter. About 7 to 9 months of rain a year.
How bout a segment on rain gear. And rubber work boots.
You can use candle wax too it's not that bad and also you can just rub it on but put it in the dryer after rubbing it on do it several times you'll end up with the same result. I have several bags and pants I use this on
does the wax rub off onto your car seats and furniture?
Hello i'm getting into waxing my clothes I was wondering if they're was a way to wax a white shirt do not get it to turn To dark Trying to prevent the wet t shirt look I go to sports events in some times he is wearing a snow area they have game cold white outs that we weigh it where our white t shirts too and I Am one of those people that instantly as soon as I put the shirt on somehow I get a mess on It
Can you use 100% bees wax, or does it need to have an oil in it?
Boiled linseed oil? How do you prevent it from catching fire?
I made an Oil skin tarp out of a high thread count cali king sheet. linseed oil and turp.
SNOWSEAL… (or something like that. Blue and white jar. Hardware store. About one can per jacket or a few vests. I put it on everything. Vintage to cheep fashion. Looks great. Color test always is a cool color. And light colors look still light, dark gets darker. Made a purple China vest into a deep mahogany. And salvaged a white designer puffer for a few more years.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS! I have been looking for years on a good way to make "Duck Cloth" and this is just what I needed. Keep up the content! Instant sub, love the sense of humor too. Ciao
I've been meaning to wax poetic for quite some time. Thanks for the tutorial! 😂🙌🙏
Does this mean if you live in a hot country the wax might melt or is it not enough heat? Also, what about machine washing this thing?
I would go heavy with the bar around all the stitching seams, heat all the seams and seal that adding more where you need to. I'd then do the rest of the material with the (possibly second) bar or heated tin of wax.
Use a silicone naptha mix and paint it on with a paint brush takes minutes and lasts for decades. Bed sheets treated this way turn into waterproof tarps that last for years outside.
I just stumbled across the video and liked it. I looked through the comments and didn't see any one mention using a clothes dryer. I figure you can paint it turn it inside out put it in an old pillow case and run it through a short dryer cycle. I might try it with some old work pants.
I would probably Iron on the bar wax. It's tempting to try this, but I use my jacket for welding so I don't want to make it more flammable.
i waxed two of my flat caps they work great and go good with my two waxed coats.
Couldnt you use the hair dryer on the wax block?
Hi what will you say is the best boots for the price around the samme price red wings or doc martens or wolverine or any similar priced brands?
Have a couple pair of boots I use mink oil on, seems to be the same concept. Met several that use Pig lard to do the same thing. Wonder if throwing that jacket in the drier would have made a difference.
Use an ironing board where you iron your clothes instead of a table. And then use an... semi hot iron. Just use the hair dryer for the bits you can’t get to with the iron
an iron yes, thank you...i was breaking my head over how to do this since i don't own a heat gun or a hair dryer or anything...heat from an iron should work...hopefully (if you've done this before, any tips to ensure i don't set the wax on fire?)
It’s worth mentioning the reason you heated the can of wax over water, instead of heating wax directly on the stove. The water keeps the wax from getting hot enough to combust. A can of wax spewing flames is the last thing you want in your kitchen.
(Boiling water stays at a constant temperature of about 212 F or 100C, until all the water boils away.)
I don’t get it tho so you have to cover your seats , does it come off on your car seats or sofas. Does the wax come off on like that or not really
I've used Otterwax, Fjallraven G1000 wax and Filson wax. Filson is by far the easiest to use and best smelling. The Otterwax is my least favorite of them. Make sure to use a heat gun to get the fabric hot enough and I generally do 2-4 coats on the first go round.
Carl, what about tackling the inside of the
jacket as well?
I wouldn’t recommend it. Waxed material doesn’t feel pleasant on your skin or against thinner layers of clothing.
Carl. Can be waxed a coat with 78% cotton and 22% nylon?
I wonder if 100D cordura could be a good jacket?. I have some fabric
Waxing my Rip Wheeler jacket for a Halloween costume. I'm doing the 2 can Otter wax method. Wish me luck!
Ty I bought a pair of Jean's for 150 ( I know) and even tho I followed wash instructions all the wax came off. So now I can breathe life back in them ty again
Are you supposed to iron outdoor jackets? and what if they are waxed?