@@ThePersonToBlame Better still, he does not sensationalize, just talk to me. I do not need anyone jumping in my face and shouting smiles/appeal. Contrary to popular belief, it is quite unappealing. It is like a fractious dog.
@@neilsullada385 Ah, yes, as if knowing what is actually happening is not important. I love going into a lesson and learning _absolutely nothing._ You must've had a great time in school! You really fit _perfectly_ into the niche factory worker they crafted you into! And maybe you should try being a tad more eloquent, learning punctuation and proper capitalization, as well as just being a happier person over-all. Trust me, it's better than whatever self-inflicted 'scorched-earth policy' misery you've put yourself in.
I have 9 horses and live in a cold, wet area. The horses' blankets stop being waterproof quickly, and are horribly expensive to replace. This is a game changer for anyone with horses! Thank you for this video!😊
Because horses love caustic chemicals on a sheet applied direct to their skin. If you have 9 horses to feed and you’re upset about the cost of upkeep I shouldn’t have to point out the problem in the situation.
Last spring, I used naptha and silicon like you demonstrate here and brushed it on my convertible car's fabric roof - amazing! Not only did my roof stop leaking in the rain, whenever it snowed this winter, I never had issues with the snow melting and seeping through my car's roof! A new roof would have cost me $360; the current one is 6 years old but other than seeping/leaking, it's in great shape, hated idea of paying to replace it. A quart can of naphtha and a single tube of cheapest silicon cost me $11 total last spring, and I spent around an hour, maybe bit more, mixing it up and brushing it all over my car's roof. I did, however, have to throw the brush I used away as I forgot to clean it lol
I used this compound and a brush years ago to waterproof a wide brimmed had so I could use it to hunt in rainy weather. Worked great and is still waterproof over 20 years later.
@@humility-righteous-giving YES, but you would have to clean the sprayer out very well with fresh solvent or it would be a one time use sprayer.....also the internal parts of the sprayer may dissolve with the solvent so you may need a couple different sprayers to try.
this is freaking awesome. Not only did you explain what you did you showed us exactly what to use and showed us how to do it. With all the fake sh*t on UA-cam this video should be given an award for being the most realist informative UA-cam videos out there. People should get monetized for how real information is not by the amount of views and likes.
@@SnailHatan YES, which is what I'm praising. Simple honest basic tutorial that is being done to share the information, it's not motivated by seeking likes.
For the buttons, I use little pebbles that come from a river. Pick the ones that are perfectly smooth and as round as possible. These won’t damage your tarp. In a pinch you could also use glass marbles.
@@SkepticalCaveman That's a great idea. These are much lighter than pebbles and possibly last a fairly long time. A couple of caveats though: if you lose one or it gets damaged, you won't be able to replace it for another cork ball in the field. Also, they are very light and sometimes the weight of a couple of pebbles can be useful to weigh down something as well: multifunctional. If you're backpacking that extra weight isn't worth it. Go for actual buttons instead; if you can find thick, sturdy buttons, they weigh next to nothing but surely will get the job done. Come to think of it, you could also whittle little rounded 'pebbles' from wood. Easily replaced when lost and light as well. And it gives you something to do when sitting at the campfire.
Regarding the button technology, my grandfather used to use pennies, as they had a uniform shape and were plentiful (for the time). Interestingly, I remember him showing me when we were bird hunting and a button came off his jacket…and he field repaired with change in the truck’s ashtray. Later, I observed him use it with canvas tarps across his truck bed and across wood stacks. Nice reminder!!
Older generations were far more intelligent & creative than we are. We are spoiled with readymade solutions for everything in life that our creativity is perhaps the lowest among all generations since the dawn of civilization.
I have a 5 metre x 3 metre garage roof that is letting in rain water. I painted about a metre square over the felt roof where the rain penetrates with emergency roof repair. Do you think the canvas tarp like your dad used would stop the rain getting in until I can replace the roof covering or large tarp in drier weather?
@@mortimp Yes, in theory. But if you miss a pinhole size it'll let water in that will erode it. There's thread count, too. Also there's the sun and wind that can weaken the bonds. Treat a pillowcase (maybe twice) and then fill it with water in the shower; let the success or failure decide.
I saved this video last year and I've just been waiting for the opportunity to try it. We really needed this because we wanted to leave our snow blower on the driveway rather than having to drag it uphill in the snow when we needed it, but, as he says, the cheap tarps you get in stores just disintegrate. So, how did it go? First, I totally underestimated how easily the silicone would come out. It's one thing when you're squeezing out a little to seal something, but emptying the whole tube requires serious work. My hands are still sore from when I did it last weekend. Second, I just had a heck of a time distributing the liquid easily over the sheet. All the liquid goes to the bottom, and once it was absorbed by the sheet, it was hard to get a sufficient amount on the rest. I did use his trick of wringing in the dry spots with a wetter spot and that seemed to work, but it was also hard to tell where the dry spots were. It isn't just the completely dry spots, either, but the places that got wet but not saturated. We just tested it on a small part and I think it worked okay. The water definitely stayed on one side of the sheet and didn't leak at all -- as long as we were on a good spot of the tarp. The back side did feel a little damp when we were done. On the whole, I'm happy with the result and I'm planning on using it. I really want to come up with a better way of soaking the sheet adequately the next time, though. I think ideally I would buy a respirator so I could just squish the sheet around in an open vat, because then I could really see what I was doing and make sure all parts were getting plenty wet. This is an awesome idea and absolutely fills a need cheaply and relatively easily. As with anything, there are some difficulties that aren't obvious from the video, but this is a trick that really works.
I would be pre washing a new sheet, would be necessary bc of the manufacturing chemicals used to make them crisp and perfect looking for sale, like towels are coated in crap and basically non absorbent until after a few washes. Anyway, new or old sheeting, I think using a wetted- dried to damp then soaked in the solution would work great to help coat more evenly as the fibers are evenly pre moistened and will evaporate with the Naptha.
If you don't have a pebble, just tie the line around a corner of the sheet with a little extra sheet sticking out, then fold that part back over itself, and tie around the bunch- the first knot becomes the "pebble" for the second! Brilliant video, thanks!
He used the brush, as you say in the end of the video. Wow, that bring back memories. Anyway, I never knew that it would work in sheets or any fabric!! Thank you so much for that, I'll definitely try it!!
@@ulysses_grant My granddad did that exact same thing too! He used to go kayaking so waterproofing stuff was a necessary skill. Naphtha and silicone, applied with a brush, and I think he came up with it himself - he was that kind of guy.
I am inspired by this video to make items a homeless person can use for camping out in mild weather. I like the button method too. This makes sense for a tarp or tent or personal item poncho. Cover and protect plants from frost!
Dude legit. I came here for the waterproof sheet, but im taking this button knowledge with me for the rest of my life. Im absolutely blown away that i never knew how to do that and now im going to start using it all the time
I drove across the country this fall with some of my most prized possessions in the tarped bed of my truck. I used 3mil contractor bags to keep my taped totes of books safe and basically used all the tarps I had, of various sizes and degrees of wear. Nearly none of the grommets were where I needed them to be, to pull it all tight for the trip. I made extensive use of the button method to customize the tie downs and was pleased with nary a flutter the whole trip (lots of wind 3/4 of the way and lots of rain at the end and all stayed dry.) I learned the button method at The Tracker School. You can use one in the middle of a canopy tarp to make a peak so the rain doesn't puddle and collapse it as well as endless customizing configurations, since you can put one anywhere you need it.
I don't know how you always manage to knock it out of the park with your ideas, but you do. update: I combined this with your can stove project to make a CAMPING SAUNA. My life is complete.
This is a pretty cool idea. Just an FYI if anyone is curious and doesn't have the time or space for a project like this. They make commercial shower curtains that are super tough, durable, flexible, and most importantly waterproof. It's like a canvas material. They might be a suitable replacement for a sheet dipped in silicone if that's what you need. I've had them outside, in direct sunlight abiut 6 hours per day for years and they are still soft and flexible.
In Seattle, back in the '70s, I coated a sheet of thin ripstop nylon with silicone rubber paint. I worked quite well and never degraded in any way. I used it as a groundsheet. When camping on snow, I put aluminum foil under the tent to reflect body heat back to the occupants. This is a cool demo.! I bought the silicone rubber originally to line my steel drum composter. Thanks. My groundsheet was light and didn't crackle.
The foil like emergency blankets are great for under the tent or under the sleeping bags, a little loud right under sleeping bags if you wiggle in your sleep and can be annoying but under the tent on top of the tarp works great, also can put them on top of tent under tarp or rain shield to keep it much warmer while camping, anywhere you can line the tent with these makes the tent so much warmer, talking form lots of experience! Good luck everyone!
Penguin Mode🐧 I still remember binge watching your channel during lockdown after the woodgas and firework videos popped up on my home page again. With life getting more complicated by the day, I had forgotten how much I enjoy your work. It feels like I’m watching science Bob Ross, always something new to learn; and I get to stand on the shoulders of giants so to speak. Since you always seem to include the things that *didn’t* work- I’m not starting from scratch. And I learned that Mel Science existed from one of the other videos of yours I’ve watched today. My girlfriend and I are excited to try a couple of their kits. You’re an inspiration mate, may enthalpy always be in your favor.
The example at the start had wetting and he never showned an example from the sheet he created even though he had a still from the shot on the thumbnail. Truth is it doesn't work well even from fresh treatment. I know this because i tried before and the results shown here look suspect when you know what to look for.
I'm much more impressed by the cloth button at the end. The one used to tie in the cloak. I always used to walk around by holding both ends together with my hands. You learn something new everyday. Although I feel a bit stupid for having walked like that for so long
I use a pool cue ball in this way to skin animals. Start to skin around the hind legs and work past the tail. Use the cue ball like a button, attach the winch from your vehicle or quad...and peel the hide off in short order!
We can't all start off being expert cloak wearers. I'm sure Dracula and Darth Vader had their moments before they got the hang of it. Look at the bright side: now you can make ANYTHING a cloak, keep your hands warm in your pockets, AND stay dry if it rains at the outdoor cloak convention you're attending. Win city!
Made one today. I did the 5:1 ratio with naphtha, did a small test section after only about 5 or 6 hours of drying and I'm impressed with the results so far. I already want to do another one with 4:1 ratio with a 1000 thread count sheet and mix in a cup of outdoor paint for UV protection... Will give updates on this after more testing
Will do. I'm trying/testing 2 different mixtures now and will do another sheet with the winner and adding the paint. Having fun with this. Thanks for the idea!
The paint didn't thin down as well as I had hoped. So now I kinda have a tie dye camo effect 😆 But!, The area that is coated well with the paint is much more rigid/durable feeling, I think it will do and last longer. Next test run will do another sheet of microfiber sheet (best results so far) going to try mineral spirits to break down the paint or try an oil based paint? I'm not sure which will be best but I need it to thin the paint out better... More to come
This was great, thank you. Making your own button tie was something I will never forget, and made me see how clothes in times long gone may have been held together, nice and strong.
When I was a kid, I remember som elderly ladies who still used stockings (not pantyhose), basically fastened their stocking using buttons like that. They would use a little button, a small coin or token and their girdle had a loop-like piece that was pulled around the button to secure to the stockings. You can still buy elastic band bedsheet fasteners that has a similar fastening contraption.
This is the same formula that we used to water seal cinder block walls. Mix it up in a cheap pump sprayer and apply to brick, wood fence even canvas drop cloths
I saw this technique last year on skill tree. I used this technique to make a rain jacket for myself. It's not something fancy basically just a layer of fabric to shed the water. So i first sew the jacket without a zipper or buttons. I then soaked it in the solution and let it hang outside for about 2 days - mostly because i forgot it. It was dry afterwardsso i put in the zipper and buttons and till now it really served me well. I had to adjust my breastpockets. Because when it reains heavily the water would collect in there and i didn't really have a way to realease that water.
And what you can tell about the breathability? I would like to waterproof my canvas anorak but I would like to know how bad will affect the breathability. Thanks!
@@schiaucugabriel6202 with this method there is zero breathability. it becomes a solid waterproof membrane. so, it will keep the rain off you, but you will still end up soaked by your own sweat! lol.
@@schiaucugabriel6202dude.... This is waterPROOFING. There is no breathability here. If you want breathability try the mineral oil and paraffin wax method, you can go light on the wax and distress the material a bit afterwords. That MIGHT get you some breathability while water resistant.
We also made buttons out of just a wad of leaves in the corners of our ponchos to make a tent years ago when we went primitive camping. Glad to see this knowledge being spread!
Ben, thank you for never changing the way you do things. Your content has been consistently straightforward, immensely creative and interesting, and never EVER fails to rouse my creative and problem-solving tendencies, and I'm extremely grateful for that. Coming back to your channel, after watching you progress since very near the start of your channel, is a real joy, and a breath of fresh air in the midst of the world's seemingly constant mess. Thank you for doing what you do!
I've been wanting to make an oil-skin tarp for camping, but now I'm going to go with this! It seems like it'd be a much lighter option by weight instead of canvas and oil/wax combination as well as a much easier process! Thanks!
@@TheZombieOfDrake even after it’s cured? Huh. That’s a consideration too. I wonder if there’s a chemical you could mix in to make it flame retardant when mixing the silicone.
This is one of the most generally useful ones I've seen in a while. Not only is it something everyone has a need for but it's something most everyone can easily do. Thanks!
for the best possible results, you should do this with a hemp or bamboo based cloth. hemp is best but bamboo also very strong. silk is great but more expensive and not functionally much stronger than hemp.
@@fieldlab4 we used a bulk paraffin wax also used for candle making. We used kerosene to thin the formula and for uniformity. All application equipment except for the drying drums were heated with steam. Used kerosene for cleaning up.
@@beccagee5905 Ontario cold does not affect the water proof properties or the stiffness to the fabric in a significant way. These fabrics will leak through in wet weather over time.
When I was in the military, we used naptha and clear silicone to dilute the silicone to a syrup like consistency. We spread it onto the weapon's fin base in wavy lines to allow ice buildup to break away easily.
Just guessing, but when they said this, I pictured a mortar round which has a fin base (guidance systems aka wings in a circle etc.) and I secondly think it’s mortars because they mention ice easily breaking off fins, and I remember ice on mortar rounds being a bad deal if you needed to launch. But who knows. I’m just speculating.
PSA: There are two main types of "cheap silicone", and several types of non-silicone tube adhesives (usually latex or acrylic based). silicone I smells like vinegar. This is the easiest to cure and best for tinkerers, if you can tolerate the smell and acidity. Silicone ii smells vaguely of methanol, and does not always cure as easily. Silicone I is "the good stuff", but it's getting a bit harder to find. Probably because of the smell. S1 can be used for "oogoo" - diy Sugru using cornstarch or food coloring. S2 *will not set up as easily*, if at all, when doing this trick. So if you try this and it stays sticky after days, get yourself a tube of Silicone 1.
i was wondering about this while i was watching. TKOR taught me about the distinction between the 2. thanks for the info! I have both kinds lying around and wanted to do this but wasn't sure whether to cheap out and use the old cheap S2 or the new unopened S1.
I was thinking about this myself after noticing the silicone I wiped on my work pants made a nice waterproof area, knowing that you can dissolve the silicone in naphtha makes the concept way more viable!
I have successfully replicated this tutorial using mineral turpentine instead of naphtha, which is not sold locally in my country. It took a little longer, 36-48 hours to fully dry. The material I used was 100% cottons and extremely thin fabric. You could see straight through the fabric in good lighting, so probably a 60-120 thread count, but the water repellant quality is still there even using a single layer. The tarp is unbelievable light weight and compact.
My jaw is on the floor. As someone living in the country, I LOVE hacks and this one makes the list of of one of the best of all time. Your instructions and presentation are perfect as well. Thank you! I'm sharing this with everyone I know.
I want to tell you that I watch a LOT of UA-cam. This was one of the best instructional videos ever. Really valuable information delivered so perfectly. Instant subscription! Thank you. And a guy who loves birds is a clear indication of a good soul.
You rule, dude. I've been looking for a silicone thinner for a while, though had not quite got around to researching it proper, and you just saved me a ton of hassle.
Just make sure it's type-I silicone as the type-II stuff isn't likely to cure as well. Seems like a great way for hardware stores to recycle the last of their inventory for the stuff that's about to expire…
I like this. Here's a tip, as I live out in the desert w/lots of wind, if you are going to tie it off to hold it down get some coil springs that have half-round hooks on each end from an old sofa or recliner ... make that "button" connection but turn the long end into a small loop that you hook the spring into and take a another rope n tie it to your anchor point and to the other end of the spring and pull snug. The spring will absorb the shock the wind whipping the tarp so it won't tear as easily
@@hugbearsx4 bungee works well in rainy conditions. Salt water and/or direct sun and the rubber degrades fast, plastikote/silicone dipped metal springs last the longest for stuff kept out on deck
After watching your channel for 10 years now, I have to say I am so glad to see you sticking to your roots. Science and simple DIY rather than clickbait and fluff. You're the real deal! Such a neat project that I'll definitely try out and can't wait for the next one!
Or you could use a marble in exchange for the pebble to prevent tearing through the sheet if the pebble has any sharp corners, it's what I used and some helpful advice.
I was going to suggest a marble myself. A river stone works well too. He did suggest an acorn in the video, which is very smooth without the cap and when you burnish off the point.
Shellite is the equivalent product for naphtha in Australia, available in our biggest hardware chain store. Finished 2 sheets today; one sheet was a little bigger so went with 2lt of shellite to 1 x 300g tube of silicone to get complete coverage and it still worked a treat. Thanks
Thank you i live here too and i wonder if it was a colored silcone would that work grey black white just curious thanks for the shellite tip he used clear silicone ther is also a vinyl paint we used to use years ago i wonder if that would work we sprayed it i suppose this could be sprayed just curious regards lee 😊😊😊😊😊
After seeing this video about a week and a half ago I tried this on some of the cheapo leather work gloves you can buy at any hardware store, the ones that have the soft suede texture, and it seems to be working great! I wear these gloves basically all day at my job, and while they're not water proof, they are water (and oil) resistant which is perfect for what I need. I need gloves that are puncture resistant, hence the leather, but untreated ones quickly absorb oil and moisture. So this has been a great fix.
@@iraa9935 I think it'll depend what it's made of. Do a spot test with the naphtha, to make sure it doesn't melt/dissolve the fibres. The other thing is going to be the durability aspects. If the weaved fibres are not plentiful/high thread count; the end result won't benefit as much from the qualities of the fabric (though it should still provide a structure to the applied silicone). Maybe the recommendation for application to rucksacks and similar is appropriate; make the mix a little thicker with more silicone and less naphtha, possibly paint it onto the sheet, laid out flat on the ground (hard ground with no finish that will be damaged by naphtha! - outdoors ideal). Once dry or mostly dry, you could do the other side. Completely dry to keep it clean and prevent picking up too much debris from the ground. If you lay a plastic sheet under it, of a material plastic tested the same way as in the video, then it'll be easier to keep the new cloth clean when treating it on one or both sides.
ahhh yes,.. i make dusters,.. had a snake deteriorate after a decade, i think this would be great to do to repel water from snakehide,... i will have to do something on that scale with this method, would be very cool
Very cool vid. We're about to replace a set of sheets, so this will definitely come in handy. Now that was all pretty great, but the BUTTON TECHNOLOGY was *mind blowing*. Of course a pebble/nut and a slip knot. Simplicity always has its own elegance. Brilliant.
@@carmineredd1198 every deer season several hides each year has the pebble knot used and has been for many years here. An 'Ol timer back then seen me fighting a hide as a child and offered some advice ..... that's been neigh on 50 years and have been using it ever since.
You don't need a pebble. If you tie a simple knot on the end of the rope you can use that as the "pebble" and then just slip knot around it. Been using it in the field for years. You'd be surprised how often a good stone is elusive
The most absolute useful thing I've seen on UA-cam yet. Thank you... you saved me hundreds. I am a hiker/camper these are light enough to pack and heavy enough to offer warmth and dry without destroying my expensive tarps for tarp camping.
@@DKFX1 I take a lot of care for my good tarps. Homemade tarps I would be abusive. Like over stretching or just using a stick to prop the center up instead of toggles and paracord
Brilliant! Especially liked the "button" technique. I imagine that method of connecting fabric to fabric was used in prehistoric times, and no trace endured for us to see and admire.
In fact, I'm going to take this technique to show to my button club next week. A very different kind of button that I'm sure none of us has even thought of.
Another thing to keep the tarp from ripping, is to use bungee cord in addition to rope to allow the wind to be able to stretch out the tie down spots. Tie a rope between trees, attach the tarp to the rope with bungees. I used to rip all my tarps until I learned that trick.
good idea... bunjee cords seem to always deteriorate after a season or two though so i dont like buying them anymore if theyre going to end up in the trash so soon
I just came back to check mixing ratios as it has been awhile since I watched this. So if I've not said it before I'll say it now - This is a Great Video! A excellent example of how YT vids should be. No wasted time and to the point. I wish others would follow yr example. Not only that but your subject matter is why I'm here, I really like your channel😁
Great video! I'll have to make a nice tarp out of the old bedsheets. Also, I recently used a mix of mineral spirits and silicone to seal our concrete wash basin. The old concrete had developed some hairline cracks that would drip when our washing machine emptied into the basin. One thick coat with silicone/mineral spirits, no more drip! But wow did that mineral spirits stink up the house for a good week. So much for odorless.
That must be an older way of doing wash. I recall my grandmother having that setup. On the flip side, there is the opportunity for reusing the wash water.
I believe that it should. The silicone will chemically cure and bond to the fabric. The only reasonable way to separate the two is by burning the thing and collecting the gases 😆
As an overall comment, so many UA-cam videos are not really useful, they are pointless or just wrong. I actually got the two things you were telling us about and they will inspire us all to greatness. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
As soon as You said "silicone" i knew exactly what the method was, yet it did not occur to me before! Great idea, I will totally waterproof my backpack this way as the factory coating is slowly degrading and I see signs of leakage in the top pouch.
this is a very helpful, easy to follow vid for waterproofing fabric. i'm going to try this, as i'm sick of tarps dying in the wind, and sheet plastic dying in the sun. both leave a horrible mess to clean up. there's always a ton of old sheets for next to nothing at garage sales, and they're just a couple months away. sew a few together with lapped seams, and i'll have a mega tarp on the cheap. thanx!
@@evenstar42 the naphtha would evaporate away as it cures. most oil based paints and stains use a flammable solvent as a carrier for the pigments that evaporates away. the liquid paint is flammable, but the dried paint isn't. this is the same. it uses the naphtha as a solvent carrier for the silicone allowing the fabric to absorb it better, then evaporates leaving the solid silicone component behind. although cotton sheets are themselves flammable, i actually think the silicone treatment would make them less so.
Now this was an excellent how-to/diy instructional video! Clear, concise, and skillfully demonstrated. Everything we needed, nothing we didn't. Wonderfully focused. 💯🎯
That’s why I’m here! I just actually need new stain/waterproof fabric for dining room chairs! I have the fabric and don’t want to buy anything else but it’s light colored and I’m not about to attempt it without some kind of treatment
I would waterproof the top and edges but allow the bottom to drain and/or dry if moisture winds up getting in through any defect. We found that wood fully painted would rot at the bottom of the boards from retaining water, but we could prevent this by not coating a portion of the back and bottom and they would last much longer. I am thinking cushions might be similar in this regard.
This dude is an instructional/how to video legend!!! No off topic bull s*** chatter. Thank you for not wasting our time and teaching me how to make a waterproof tarp out of an old bed sheet. Plus the added button tie down bonus.
Big Button (LLC) doesn't want you to know. Textilers hate him! UA-camr fixes cloth to hardpoints without stitching or cutting with this one weird trick
I've been watching you since I was 12, you've taught me a lot and helped me pursue my current career goals for becoming an engineer. Just wanted to say thanks 👍
This is brilliant! I have long stocked virtually all common solvents but didn't know this. In a SHTF scenario, being able to stay dry can easily spell the difference between life and death.
Hmm.. interesting, here is a couple ideas for "part 2": - What would happen if you stretch the fabric really good (have it pre-tensioned like they do with concrete) before silicone set, would it make the fabric stiffer ? - How if you give same treatment to a cardboard ? would it turn amzon box into water tight cooler or temporary water storage ? see where I'm going with that ?…
I've used silicone solution on cardboard, it makes an amazingly useful material. Lightweight, easy to cut or pre-form into unique shapes, and if you bond 2 or more layers together in the drying process, it can become shockingly durable. If you used it to make a water bin though, I think it would warp from the weight, and eventually leak, cuz water gets really heavy in large amounts. So you'd need some kind of rigid box first, maybe plywood. And at that point, you may as well just paint the plywood with pure silicone and skip the cardboard. At which point really you have a "treated wooden trough". UV breaks down silicone caulk in about 5-20 years outdoors. But if you paint over it with something very UV resistant, you could extend that considerably. Truck bed liner comes to mind. Even if the truck bed liner breaks down, as long as it shades the underlying silicone, it would last a really long time. I'm curious how 2-ply silicone bathed cardboard, top-coated with truck bed liner, would work as roofing tiles. I made a box/tray for the trunk of my car with 2-ply silicone bathed cardboard. It's warped to fit an odd shaped area which otherwise isn't very useful space in the trunk. 2-bins with a divider. It's had various things spill inside it, from oil to grocery store milk. It protected the trunk's carpet, and stays in place well. Keeps things from shifting around much. It's a good insulation material, both thermally and acoustically. Easy to trim, and 1-ply can be bent for odd shaped areas. The rigidity goes up shockingly fast the more layers you bond together though. So you'll need to warp multi-layer laminates before they dry if you want unique shapes. Can be used in place of foam-board for many things too. I've also used just pure silicone caulk to bond together pieces of plastic. Like the stuff they use for 32oz cups at the quick-mart. It gets drastically stronger & more rigid when bonded in layers, because to bend, the layers have to slide past each other slightly, and the silicone doesn't want to allow that. Basically the same idea as in laminated wood, which was the main material for WWII aircraft, where thin bonded sheets are more rigid than a single piece of wood of the same thickness, and you can warp it before it cures to make more interesting shapes (though germany went with a saw-dust+epoxy blend which was a bit like MDF). There's probably better materials for it on an industrial scale, but silicone solution bathing of porous materials, and silicone bonding of layered materials, gives you a lot of "back-yard" options to make interesting things.
@@Erbmon yeah, better as a cooler than as a water bin. Could buy some tempered glass & make an aquarium though. that'd be food-safe water storage (for a while).
This is awesome! There’s no doubt that silicon makes a great water repellent, but I had no idea that you could dissolve it down with a solvent and apply it to things like sheets. Very cool!
@@skie6282 I wouldn't think they would be very breathable. Imagine how a plastic raincoat feels, and they at least get air circulation at the bottom. Good for not getting wet, but all day wear could create some issues from condensation, and sweating.
@@skie6282 ive had mixed results w/ WP pants on my bike. used the high end breathable WP pants from sports stores and >80kph the water was forced right through the fabric soaking my shins (tops of my legs were fine). i still think the best WP bike pants are the cheapest rubber/plastic ones -chuck it in a saddle bag or a fender bag and throw it on when it dumps
Yes, all you tube videos should be this good. Tarps are so expensive and don’t last nearly long enough. Thank you for this simple fix. Love the button idea.
Thank you so much!! I now have a way to make horse blankets that don't cost an arm and leg, and then get destroyed on the first wearing. And, with the button truck, I can actually get said blankets to fit properly!! Double win! Thanks for the info 😁
I think spray on coatings are often a very similar silicone and solvent mixture. This method I think is longer lasting because you get way more silicone soaked into the fabric instead of a surface layer.
there's also the ones that wash in but i'd imagine that a whole bag of 20% silicone gives you a lot more waterproofing than anything you can put in a washing machine.
the best video on this topic as he provides the ratios of silicone to solvent and the volume needed for the sheet. He also provides a ratio for the volume of the item being treated. Seriously informative so watch this one and ignore the others, everything you need to know is here. thanks for such a helpful guide video 10/10
UPDATE. Because its hard to get naptha I was forced to use turpentine. At first it looked as though the silicone wouldn't dissolve but after about 10 mins of mixing everything was dissolved into a clear liquid. I used the exact ration suggested in the video and 1.5L of turps with 300g of silicone was just enough to fully treat a king sized cotton sheet. Perfect result. The sheet was hung dry and then left in the sun for a day to ensure that there was no turps smell, none. I then treated 100m or para cord, the zip off legs for my tramping pants and some colour faded swim shorts. All worked perfectly. I added some paint to the mix for my swim shorts and they are no longer faded with the added bonus of instant dry after a swim. This process works perfectly
Once I waterproofed bottom part of my suede boots with just silicone. It stood up for five years, the boots are fine, but silicone starts to peel off. I thought of that improvement as 'half-good', now I understand where and why I missed that half. Thank you so much!
@@petramarishko 5 years is quite impressive for using it as is. Could you imagine if actually saturated the suede and soaked through? My only concern is they would become more like rubber boots and your feet couldn’t breathe.
@@White000Crow those boots was strangely constructed or 'designed'. The heels was wrapped in the upper material too low, only thin sheet of rubber between suede and the ground. It was winter boots, made for snow, but it is always way too much salt and salty waters on the roads around me. So I waterproofed only that part of the suede, wich came close to the ground. It looked ok, because this boots already had a lot of 'sporty' rubber details. I don't know if it's possible to make clear edge, as I did, with thinned silicone, I need to think about it. Maybe I shoud use thin strip of pure silicone to mark the border...
Just to be clear you should state that you are using silicone caulking. It really makes a difference. If you go into a hardware store and ask for a tube of silicone they will ask for more information. I know it’s pedantic but may help someone get the correct product at the store. Otherwise this is a super cool idea and I can’t wait to waterproof the crap out of all of my outdoor fabrics. Thanks for this idea. It’s much appreciated!!
If the sales personnel ask you for more information on what kind of silicone you want, what else do you think they're thinking of? Other caulking materials like acrylic are not silicone and thus not what you're looking for. If, however, they ask you whether you want tin-cure or 2 component platinum-cure, go with the latter if you can, as tin-cure silicones are not skin-safe
I recently did a beeswax coating on a "rain" jacket which leaked like a sill, it worked but became pretty ridgid and changed color, going to try this next time!
Silicone fabrics on the skin can be very irritating. Make a test piece first, like a bandana. If you can wear the bandana for a day, then I would try it on a coat.
@@zachcoldwell7978 Silicone allergy is somewhat rare, and just like any other allergy to most people it's not a problem at all but to those few it's very painful. And your recommendation of testing it on the face is really silly.. Just wrap it around the forearm above the wrist so it's the least irritating it can be if you are allergic to it.
@@Spiralem I did heat it up and it did work fairly well, the jacket is quite usable, but as I say, a bit ridgid still after the heating, I could't heat too much as there was a lot of plastic in the jacket which started to burn at quite low temperatures.
@@dannes22 hair dryer.not too much heat.cheaper than heat gun,especially if you find a working one while yardsaleing for bed sheets and half full cans of naptha.one man's junk...
Fascinating, I learned a lot. I'm completely sold on the bedsheet idea, considering the sheet is already lighter and much more durable than a plastic tarp. I'll use the button idea too, great video!
I am impressed beyond measure. I sew, belong to a historical group, am interested in historical fabrics and garmet making and am always trying to problem solve in a non-ugly way. To be able to waterproof regular fabric just answered my prayers. I love the discussion on the pitfalls of using grommets. I plan on repairing a few patio umbrellas and a storm damaged my fabric gazebo topper. Well Sir now I have some solutions..
Good stuff, though for extended outdoor use it's probably a good idea to add a UV protectant, too. Even just adding a cup of external house paint to the silicone/solvent blend will cover the sheet in protective pigments meant for outdoor use and extend the life of the cloth significantly. That trick comes from the DIY faux-fiberglass recipe, where you use bedsheets and exterior housepaint to make waterproof boat hulls or other foamboard creations.
If you ever get into wooden bow making, you'll find that all kinds of glues in all kinds of fabric are common backings especially among the more experimentally minded of us. It is amazing what PVA glue and thin linen fabric can do.
Incredible! Thank you for this lesson! Im tired of expensive tarps shredding into pieces after one use and my creative side is working at full mode right now thinking on how else I can use it.
Hey Max, I just looked up your DIY recycling Grommets Video (about the Kanoo) because they are the perfect Combination with this Tarp in my opinion. Then I see your Comment 😅♥️
@@BeckyYork Prob not but then neither is goretex after about 6 months, plus it's super expensive PLUS no more £$£$ for the genuinely evil DuPont corp with this. Abs no brainer for me.
@@BeckyYork Well yes, waxed cotton has been around for at least a couple of century's, my very first bike jacket was a wax cotton Belstaff. Are you dissolving the wax to make it more liquid, if so what with ?
From now-on, when I need to learn something, I want this guy to do the teaching. No intro, no fluff, just the important stuff with clear delivery.
Exactly, ya don't need the fancy stuff when you are informing people.
@@ThePersonToBlame Better still, he does not sensationalize, just talk to me. I do not need anyone jumping in my face and shouting smiles/appeal. Contrary to popular belief, it is quite unappealing. It is like a fractious dog.
@@josephdonais4778 fractious dog...lol
and alsoa perfect english easyer to understand
Yes!👍👍
No added unnecessary duration, straight to the point, this is legit gold
there was a whole fucking minute of intro and this video could be condensed in half the time
@@neilsullada385 Ah, yes, as if knowing what is actually happening is not important.
I love going into a lesson and learning _absolutely nothing._
You must've had a great time in school! You really fit _perfectly_ into the niche factory worker they crafted you into!
And maybe you should try being a tad more eloquent, learning punctuation and proper capitalization, as well as just being a happier person over-all.
Trust me, it's better than whatever self-inflicted 'scorched-earth policy' misery you've put yourself in.
@@neilsullada385 You saying shorts are better content? xd
I have 9 horses and live in a cold, wet area. The horses' blankets stop being waterproof quickly, and are horribly expensive to replace. This is a game changer for anyone with horses!
Thank you for this video!😊
Don't let your horses smoke cigarettes.
If you use solvents for water proofing it will not be good for the horses though..
But its OK for humans?@@brendaann727
Because horses love caustic chemicals on a sheet applied direct to their skin. If you have 9 horses to feed and you’re upset about the cost of upkeep I shouldn’t have to point out the problem in the situation.
Hay is for horses
Last spring, I used naptha and silicon like you demonstrate here and brushed it on my convertible car's fabric roof - amazing! Not only did my roof stop leaking in the rain, whenever it snowed this winter, I never had issues with the snow melting and seeping through my car's roof! A new roof would have cost me $360; the current one is 6 years old but other than seeping/leaking, it's in great shape, hated idea of paying to replace it. A quart can of naphtha and a single tube of cheapest silicon cost me $11 total last spring, and I spent around an hour, maybe bit more, mixing it up and brushing it all over my car's roof. I did, however, have to throw the brush I used away as I forgot to clean it lol
Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@Nighthawkinlight You're welcome, and thanks so much for sharing how to do it!!
That is a great tip, I will use this on the vinyl roof of my classic cars and cabrio too ...
Great video thank you
This is gold! I just made a sailboat sail out of a bedsheet using this method. Please, don't ever take this video down
@@isvaraov No. I guess you missed the point but thanks for the suggestion, Captain Obvious.
@@deltafour1212 "4K Video Downloader" haha. I keep stuff offline. Have a nice day Mr. Serious !!!
Re-watched on suggested vids, have a nice day.
@@stewartmcdonald4121 I was right, you did miss my point. Thank you Captain Obvious and sharing your "worldly wisdom" Have a great day.
Im planning on waterproofing my bedsheet sail with this technique. Do you recommend sewing the rope in the edges before or after waterproofing it?
@@sawer It really doesn't matter. If it was me, I'd do it without the rope.
I used this compound and a brush years ago to waterproof a wide brimmed had so I could use it to hunt in rainy weather. Worked great and is still waterproof over 20 years later.
A great idea!
can you put this stuff in a sprayer and spray it on?
@@humility-righteous-giving YES, but you would have to clean the sprayer out very well with fresh solvent or it would be a one time use sprayer.....also the internal parts of the sprayer may dissolve with the solvent so you may need a couple different sprayers to try.
I'm planning to use it on edges of a diaper. This diaper will be used 300 times. Do you think it will sustain the wash cycles?
Great
Idea
I wish every video on UA-cam would be like this one. Excellent!! From beginning to the point, clear, concise explanation + “button” bonus. Thank you.
Came for the knowledge stayed for penguin mode
this is freaking awesome. Not only did you explain what you did you showed us exactly what to use and showed us how to do it. With all the fake sh*t on UA-cam this video should be given an award for being the most realist informative UA-cam videos out there. People should get monetized for how real information is not by the amount of views and likes.
UA-cam should receive the Nobel prize.
Ah, what a wonderful world that would create!!!
Wow, you mean he made a basic tutorial???? Absolutely INCREDIBLE!!!!!
@@SnailHatan YES, which is what I'm praising. Simple honest basic tutorial that is being done to share the information, it's not motivated by seeking likes.
is it Hail Satan, or Hell Satan.
I like Hell Satan, because I Hail nothing and nobody that I cannot see.
Very well presented and explained. Most refreshing to listen to and NO hideous music nor attitude nor posturing. Brilliant.
For the buttons, I use little pebbles that come from a river. Pick the ones that are perfectly smooth and as round as possible. These won’t damage your tarp. In a pinch you could also use glass marbles.
How about small Cork balls? Do you think they are durable enough? They are lightweight and definetly wont harm the fabric.
@@SkepticalCaveman That's a great idea. These are much lighter than pebbles and possibly last a fairly long time.
A couple of caveats though: if you lose one or it gets damaged, you won't be able to replace it for another cork ball in the field.
Also, they are very light and sometimes the weight of a couple of pebbles can be useful to weigh down something as well: multifunctional.
If you're backpacking that extra weight isn't worth it. Go for actual buttons instead; if you can find thick, sturdy buttons, they weigh next to nothing but surely will get the job done.
Come to think of it, you could also whittle little rounded 'pebbles' from wood. Easily replaced when lost and light as well. And it gives you something to do when sitting at the campfire.
You can even use coins, or, in a pinch... buttons.....
A dice also?
Marbles...
Regarding the button technology, my grandfather used to use pennies, as they had a uniform shape and were plentiful (for the time). Interestingly, I remember him showing me when we were bird hunting and a button came off his jacket…and he field repaired with change in the truck’s ashtray. Later, I observed him use it with canvas tarps across his truck bed and across wood stacks. Nice reminder!!
Older generations were far more intelligent & creative than we are. We are spoiled with readymade solutions for everything in life that our creativity is perhaps the lowest among all generations since the dawn of civilization.
I have a 5 metre x 3 metre garage roof that is letting in rain water. I painted about a metre square over the felt roof where the rain penetrates with emergency roof repair. Do you think the canvas tarp like your dad used would stop the rain getting in until I can replace the roof covering or large tarp in drier weather?
@@mortimp Yes, in theory. But if you miss a pinhole size it'll let water in that will erode it. There's thread count, too. Also there's the sun and wind that can weaken the bonds. Treat a pillowcase (maybe twice) and then fill it with water in the shower; let the success or failure decide.
@@knewsome69 Thank you for the useful information.
How did he fix the jacket with a penny?
I saved this video last year and I've just been waiting for the opportunity to try it. We really needed this because we wanted to leave our snow blower on the driveway rather than having to drag it uphill in the snow when we needed it, but, as he says, the cheap tarps you get in stores just disintegrate. So, how did it go?
First, I totally underestimated how easily the silicone would come out. It's one thing when you're squeezing out a little to seal something, but emptying the whole tube requires serious work. My hands are still sore from when I did it last weekend.
Second, I just had a heck of a time distributing the liquid easily over the sheet. All the liquid goes to the bottom, and once it was absorbed by the sheet, it was hard to get a sufficient amount on the rest. I did use his trick of wringing in the dry spots with a wetter spot and that seemed to work, but it was also hard to tell where the dry spots were. It isn't just the completely dry spots, either, but the places that got wet but not saturated.
We just tested it on a small part and I think it worked okay. The water definitely stayed on one side of the sheet and didn't leak at all -- as long as we were on a good spot of the tarp. The back side did feel a little damp when we were done. On the whole, I'm happy with the result and I'm planning on using it. I really want to come up with a better way of soaking the sheet adequately the next time, though. I think ideally I would buy a respirator so I could just squish the sheet around in an open vat, because then I could really see what I was doing and make sure all parts were getting plenty wet.
This is an awesome idea and absolutely fills a need cheaply and relatively easily. As with anything, there are some difficulties that aren't obvious from the video, but this is a trick that really works.
I would be pre washing a new sheet, would be necessary bc of the manufacturing chemicals used to make them crisp and perfect looking for sale, like towels are coated in crap and basically non absorbent until after a few washes.
Anyway, new or old sheeting, I think using a wetted- dried to damp then soaked in the solution would work great to help coat more evenly as the fibers are evenly pre moistened and will evaporate with the Naptha.
If you don't have a pebble, just tie the line around a corner of the sheet with a little extra sheet sticking out, then fold that part back over itself, and tie around the bunch- the first knot becomes the "pebble" for the second! Brilliant video, thanks!
See a knot known as a "sheet bend".
@@hanelyp1 Might work here, if you keep it under tension? I'd be worried it'd slip out if the wind flutters.
@@SoybeanAK Can always tie a double sheet bend
@@hanelyp1
A sheet bend is used to tie two ropes together or at least that's what I learned. How would you use it in this instance?
@@rogermccaslin5963 the other rope is the sheet
This trick is awesome! My grandpa used to do that to waterproof his boots! So great to see you putting it on video!! Thank you!! Miss you pa.
He used the brush, as you say in the end of the video. Wow, that bring back memories.
Anyway, I never knew that it would work in sheets or any fabric!! Thank you so much for that, I'll definitely try it!!
@@ulysses_grant My granddad did that exact same thing too! He used to go kayaking so waterproofing stuff was a necessary skill. Naphtha and silicone, applied with a brush, and I think he came up with it himself - he was that kind of guy.
It works?! Oh thank goodness I been skeetin on these boots for a week now.
Came for the tarps, stayed for the button technology.
The button is very cool, I couldn't find anyone else who knows this. Does it have a special name?
@@adamkallaev3573 I've been using this for years on tarps that don't have enough tie-out points. It works great!
Penguin mode!!!
@@adamkallaev3573 old boy scout or prepper tech
I am inspired by this video to make items a homeless person can use for camping out in mild weather. I like the button method too. This makes sense for a tarp or tent or personal item poncho. Cover and protect plants from frost!
Dude legit. I came here for the waterproof sheet, but im taking this button knowledge with me for the rest of my life. Im absolutely blown away that i never knew how to do that and now im going to start using it all the time
I drove across the country this fall with some of my most prized possessions in the tarped bed of my truck. I used 3mil contractor bags to keep my taped totes of books safe and basically used all the tarps I had, of various sizes and degrees of wear. Nearly none of the grommets were where I needed them to be, to pull it all tight for the trip. I made extensive use of the button method to customize the tie downs and was pleased with nary a flutter the whole trip (lots of wind 3/4 of the way and lots of rain at the end and all stayed dry.) I learned the button method at The Tracker School. You can use one in the middle of a canopy tarp to make a peak so the rain doesn't puddle and collapse it as well as endless customizing configurations, since you can put one anywhere you need it.
I don't know how you always manage to knock it out of the park with your ideas, but you do.
update: I combined this with your can stove project to make a CAMPING SAUNA. My life is complete.
Make a video!
I need a sauna in my life right now
This is a pretty cool idea.
Just an FYI if anyone is curious and doesn't have the time or space for a project like this. They make commercial shower curtains that are super tough, durable, flexible, and most importantly waterproof. It's like a canvas material. They might be a suitable replacement for a sheet dipped in silicone if that's what you need.
I've had them outside, in direct sunlight abiut 6 hours per day for years and they are still soft and flexible.
The problem is that they are not large enough. But thank you for that idea. Had not thought of it.
Thank you, great info there. 😮👍
Saw them together. It’s what I am going to do now. I will saw two or even more bed sheets together. :)
Wonderful! I hope it will work on my old tent❤
this is a great idea!
A pouring tip:
Orient the can with the spout on the high side when pouring.
Not the low side he is doing.
It keeps the gurgling to a minimum.
You're a gentleman and a scholar
Ah yes, the milk carton hack
BTW once the container is empty enough, the opposite might apply
That's a good tip. I've used it for years and it feels counter intuitive but it works way better!
Use this technique when adding motor oil from the 5 qt bottle and odd shaped 1qt bottles to your car/truck also.
And I thought I was the only one that knew this.
Clear, concise and extremely helpful. Zero fat. Rare on UA-cam these days. Kudos.
I was so glad to have this video come up. I think this method could be used to "make" outdoor fabric for deck cushions.
That's exactly why I watched this video, too!
@@CindyOrangeNeely Great minds think alike. 😎
Great idea!
Frances McMillan - Thanks for that idea! I'm going to try that on my outdoor swing cushions that I have to keep putting up before the rains come!
@@annwithaplan9766 You're welcome!!
In Seattle, back in the '70s, I coated a sheet of thin ripstop nylon with silicone rubber paint. I worked quite well and never degraded in any way. I used it as a groundsheet. When camping on snow, I put aluminum foil under the tent to reflect body heat back to the occupants. This is a cool demo.! I bought the silicone rubber originally to line my steel drum composter. Thanks. My groundsheet was light and didn't crackle.
i heard about the aluminum foil trick before, but forgot about it. thanks for the reminder.
Another good product is to use a mylar blanked between the tarp and tent. Trends to be less expensive than aluminum foil and can be reused many times
I'm about 20 mins north of Seattle!
The foil like emergency blankets are great for under the tent or under the sleeping bags, a little loud right under sleeping bags if you wiggle in your sleep and can be annoying but under the tent on top of the tarp works great, also can put them on top of tent under tarp or rain shield to keep it much warmer while camping, anywhere you can line the tent with these makes the tent so much warmer, talking form lots of experience! Good luck everyone!
@@joshuamorin2762 and wont have any sharp edges.
Penguin Mode🐧
I still remember binge watching your channel during lockdown after the woodgas and firework videos popped up on my home page again. With life getting more complicated by the day, I had forgotten how much I enjoy your work. It feels like I’m watching science Bob Ross, always something new to learn; and I get to stand on the shoulders of giants so to speak. Since you always seem to include the things that *didn’t* work- I’m not starting from scratch.
And I learned that Mel Science existed from one of the other videos of yours I’ve watched today. My girlfriend and I are excited to try a couple of their kits.
You’re an inspiration mate, may enthalpy always be in your favor.
i would love to see a durability update on this in a few months. great ideas as usual. keep up the good work.
Ditto
Comes with a 20 year warranty. :)
Same here
If it's silicone it should be far more durable than a professional paint job on a car.
The example at the start had wetting and he never showned an example from the sheet he created even though he had a still from the shot on the thumbnail. Truth is it doesn't work well even from fresh treatment. I know this because i tried before and the results shown here look suspect when you know what to look for.
By the way, loved the outdoor shots. If possible please do include it more often. It was refreshing compared to the workshop
I'm much more impressed by the cloth button at the end. The one used to tie in the cloak. I always used to walk around by holding both ends together with my hands. You learn something new everyday. Although I feel a bit stupid for having walked like that for so long
I use a pool cue ball in this way to skin animals. Start to skin around the hind legs and work past the tail. Use the cue ball like a button, attach the winch from your vehicle or quad...and peel the hide off in short order!
I felt the same way!
We can't all start off being expert cloak wearers. I'm sure Dracula and Darth Vader had their moments before they got the hang of it. Look at the bright side: now you can make ANYTHING a cloak, keep your hands warm in your pockets, AND stay dry if it rains at the outdoor cloak convention you're attending. Win city!
@@YerBrwnDogAteMyRabit let's see if you have any nerd in your background....have you ever read the forgotten realms series?
I figured out the button technology on my own when I had to make a tie down point in the middle of a tarp.
This is one of the most practical and doable videos I've ever seen.
The button was a game changer
So was the last video of his I watched. Really pleased to hear that.
Made one today. I did the 5:1 ratio with naphtha, did a small test section after only about 5 or 6 hours of drying and I'm impressed with the results so far.
I already want to do another one with 4:1 ratio with a 1000 thread count sheet and mix in a cup of outdoor paint for UV protection...
Will give updates on this after more testing
Let me know if the paint mixes well, that's a good idea if so.
Will do. I'm trying/testing 2 different mixtures now and will do another sheet with the winner and adding the paint.
Having fun with this. Thanks for the idea!
The paint didn't thin down as well as I had hoped. So now I kinda have a tie dye camo effect 😆
But!, The area that is coated well with the paint is much more rigid/durable feeling, I think it will do and last longer.
Next test run will do another sheet of microfiber sheet (best results so far) going to try mineral spirits to break down the paint or try an oil based paint? I'm not sure which will be best but I need it to thin the paint out better... More to come
Sweet ass Sweet!👏👏👍👍👍
Updates, yes please!
This was great, thank you. Making your own button tie was something I will never forget, and made me see how clothes in times long gone may have been held together, nice and strong.
When I was a kid, I remember som elderly ladies who still used stockings (not pantyhose), basically fastened their stocking using buttons like that. They would use a little button, a small coin or token and their girdle had a loop-like piece that was pulled around the button to secure to the stockings. You can still buy elastic band bedsheet fasteners that has a similar fastening contraption.
can you put this stuff in a sprayer and spray it on?
This is the same formula that we used to water seal cinder block walls. Mix it up in a cheap pump sprayer and apply to brick, wood fence even canvas drop cloths
Would this work for a small cinder block pond?
Engine block cylinders
can you put this stuff in a sprayer and spray it on?
VERY interesting!
@@humility-righteous-giving If you thin it out with solvent enough for the spray gun to handle it I can't see any reason why it wouldn't.
I saw this technique last year on skill tree. I used this technique to make a rain jacket for myself. It's not something fancy basically just a layer of fabric to shed the water. So i first sew the jacket without a zipper or buttons. I then soaked it in the solution and let it hang outside for about 2 days - mostly because i forgot it.
It was dry afterwardsso i put in the zipper and buttons and till now it really served me well.
I had to adjust my breastpockets. Because when it reains heavily the water would collect in there and i didn't really have a way to realease that water.
And what you can tell about the breathability? I would like to waterproof my canvas anorak but I would like to know how bad will affect the breathability. Thanks!
@@schiaucugabriel6202 with this method there is zero breathability. it becomes a solid waterproof membrane. so, it will keep the rain off you, but you will still end up soaked by your own sweat! lol.
@@schiaucugabriel6202dude.... This is waterPROOFING. There is no breathability here.
If you want breathability try the mineral oil and paraffin wax method, you can go light on the wax and distress the material a bit afterwords. That MIGHT get you some breathability while water resistant.
We also made buttons out of just a wad of leaves in the corners of our ponchos to make a tent years ago when we went primitive camping. Glad to see this knowledge being spread!
Great video! The button technique is also useful for extending the life of an older tarp where the grommet has torn off.
Ben, thank you for never changing the way you do things. Your content has been consistently straightforward, immensely creative and interesting, and never EVER fails to rouse my creative and problem-solving tendencies, and I'm extremely grateful for that. Coming back to your channel, after watching you progress since very near the start of your channel, is a real joy, and a breath of fresh air in the midst of the world's seemingly constant mess. Thank you for doing what you do!
Thanks for the encouragement!
The most innovative, most effective, most valuable, cost-effective, humorous, and useful video I have seen for a long time, thank you.
I've been wanting to make an oil-skin tarp for camping, but now I'm going to go with this! It seems like it'd be a much lighter option by weight instead of canvas and oil/wax combination as well as a much easier process! Thanks!
Plus, you can order some california king sheets or bigger!
Just make sure you don't have an allergy to the silicone, also uv resistant silicone is definitely the way to go
Be careful to put some fireproofing on this before it's anywhere near a campfire, I found out the hard way that this combo is incredibly flammable.
@@TheZombieOfDrake even after it’s cured? Huh. That’s a consideration too. I wonder if there’s a chemical you could mix in to make it flame retardant when mixing the silicone.
@@TheZombieOfDrake I mean it's cotton and lighter fluid mixed with the silicone
**ProTip:** When pouring from a spouted can, turn the can so the spout is on top; there is much less splashing because the air can get it more easily.
Noted!
This is one of the most generally useful ones I've seen in a while. Not only is it something everyone has a need for but it's something most everyone can easily do. Thanks!
for the best possible results, you should do this with a hemp or bamboo based cloth. hemp is best but bamboo also very strong. silk is great but more expensive and not functionally much stronger than hemp.
@@onemadhungrynomad indeed hemp is incredible much stronger, like 10 times 👍
I've been watching your videos for about 13 years now. Everytime I see a new upload I learn something new and get super excited. Thank you
I have worked in the textile industry and have applied both silicone and wax and oil to rolls of fabric. Loved your hands on presentation!!
What kind of wax and oil did you use? Filson traditional outback style coats are waxed cotton.
@@fieldlab4 we used a bulk paraffin wax also used for candle making. We used kerosene to thin the formula and for uniformity. All application equipment except for the drying drums were heated with steam. Used kerosene for cleaning up.
@@andybrandsma How do the waxed fabrics hold up in extreme cold?
@@beccagee5905 Ontario cold does not affect the water proof properties or the stiffness to the fabric in a significant way. These fabrics will leak through in wet weather over time.
@@andybrandsma - How much time, in your opinion? I was thinking that this is a great techniques for boat covers … also located in Ontario. 😊
When I was in the military, we used naptha and clear silicone to dilute the silicone to a syrup like consistency. We spread it onto the weapon's fin base in wavy lines to allow ice buildup to break away easily.
That's pretty neat
What is a fin base??😟
And what kind of weapon has this..?😒
@@warriorson7979 guns, chud
@@warriorson7979 i'm betting it's flying weapons like missiles.
Just guessing, but when they said this, I pictured a mortar round which has a fin base (guidance systems aka wings in a circle etc.) and I secondly think it’s mortars because they mention ice easily breaking off fins, and I remember ice on mortar rounds being a bad deal if you needed to launch. But who knows. I’m just speculating.
PSA: There are two main types of "cheap silicone", and several types of non-silicone tube adhesives (usually latex or acrylic based). silicone I smells like vinegar. This is the easiest to cure and best for tinkerers, if you can tolerate the smell and acidity. Silicone ii smells vaguely of methanol, and does not always cure as easily.
Silicone I is "the good stuff", but it's getting a bit harder to find. Probably because of the smell. S1 can be used for "oogoo" - diy Sugru using cornstarch or food coloring. S2 *will not set up as easily*, if at all, when doing this trick. So if you try this and it stays sticky after days, get yourself a tube of Silicone 1.
i was wondering about this while i was watching. TKOR taught me about the distinction between the 2. thanks for the info! I have both kinds lying around and wanted to do this but wasn't sure whether to cheap out and use the old cheap S2 or the new unopened S1.
It tastes like vinegar too :)
Here, the easiest to find is the type I. Not by chance they are called Acetic Cure Silicone
@@cleitonfelipe2092 that explains it. Acetic acid is vinegar.
wear a damn resperator instead of huffing solvents all day
I was thinking about this myself after noticing the silicone I wiped on my work pants made a nice waterproof area, knowing that you can dissolve the silicone in naphtha makes the concept way more viable!
Great observation! Thanks
Absolutely brilliant. The applications are endless. (I.e., pillowcase = dry bag.)
I have successfully replicated this tutorial using mineral turpentine instead of naphtha, which is not sold locally in my country.
It took a little longer, 36-48 hours to fully dry. The material I used was 100% cottons and extremely thin fabric. You could see straight through the fabric in good lighting, so probably a 60-120 thread count, but the water repellant quality is still there even using a single layer. The tarp is unbelievable light weight and compact.
Do you think gasoline would work? It's usually my go to instead of spending 5-10x as much on naphtha.
@@bullschitt3666 No, I don't think it would be a good choice, but I'm not completely sure about it.
I'm in the UK - what would anyone recommend as a good alternative to naphtha? I want to waterproof some cycling gear. Thanks for any information. 👍
@@marknorman8588 Like I mentioned, mineral turpentine/mineral spirits works fine, but needs to dry for a little longer.
The smell goes away I presume when dried?
My jaw is on the floor. As someone living in the country, I LOVE hacks and this one makes the list of of one of the best of all time. Your instructions and presentation are perfect as well. Thank you! I'm sharing this with everyone I know.
I want to tell you that I watch a LOT of UA-cam. This was one of the best instructional videos ever. Really valuable information delivered so perfectly. Instant subscription! Thank you. And a guy who loves birds is a clear indication of a good soul.
This young man is a great teacher. Simply and to the point. Thanks.
You rule, dude. I've been looking for a silicone thinner for a while, though had not quite got around to researching it proper, and you just saved me a ton of hassle.
Just make sure it's type-I silicone as the type-II stuff isn't likely to cure as well. Seems like a great way for hardware stores to recycle the last of their inventory for the stuff that's about to expire…
I like this. Here's a tip, as I live out in the desert w/lots of wind, if you are going to tie it off to hold it down get some coil springs that have half-round hooks on each end from an old sofa or recliner ... make that "button" connection but turn the long end into a small loop that you hook the spring into and take a another rope n tie it to your anchor point and to the other end of the spring and pull snug. The spring will absorb the shock the wind whipping the tarp so it won't tear as easily
Trampoline springs?
@@solarsynapse - Yes, stuff like that
To cover our sailing boat, we used empty plastic engine oil canisters at the rope ends and filled them with pebbles, to weigh down the tarp.
You could also try heavy duty bungee cords. Less agressive on 5he canvas and l8ghter weight.
@@hugbearsx4 bungee works well in rainy conditions. Salt water and/or direct sun and the rubber degrades fast, plastikote/silicone dipped metal springs last the longest for stuff kept out on deck
This is awesome! I’ve been up cycling old bed sheets and table linen into clothes. Now I can make raincoats too! Thank you 🙏
After watching your channel for 10 years now, I have to say I am so glad to see you sticking to your roots. Science and simple DIY rather than clickbait and fluff. You're the real deal! Such a neat project that I'll definitely try out and can't wait for the next one!
Or you could use a marble in exchange for the pebble to prevent tearing through the sheet if the pebble has any sharp corners, it's what I used and some helpful advice.
Or a button…🤗
I was going to suggest a marble myself. A river stone works well too. He did suggest an acorn in the video, which is very smooth without the cap and when you burnish off the point.
Just find a smooth pebble...
@@randallsmerna384 I'm just saying if you have one on hand. I live in California unfortunately and the closest to finding a pebble is gravel. LoL
Or Slingshot mables then you have extra ammo if you need it. Then you could start to look for round pebbles by the river when you fishing or hunting.
Shellite is the equivalent product for naphtha in Australia, available in our biggest hardware chain store. Finished 2 sheets today; one sheet was a little bigger so went with 2lt of shellite to 1 x 300g tube of silicone to get complete coverage and it still worked a treat. Thanks
Thank you i live here too and i wonder if it was a colored silcone would that work grey black white just curious thanks for the shellite tip he used clear silicone ther is also a vinyl paint we used to use years ago i wonder if that would work we sprayed it i suppose this could be sprayed just curious regards lee 😊😊😊😊😊
thankyou Queensland here
Thanks mate for shellite tip. Hope you enjoyed your snagger
Can it use your method to waterproof the canvas on my pop-top caravan?✌️🇭🇲
Gold mate
After seeing this video about a week and a half ago I tried this on some of the cheapo leather work gloves you can buy at any hardware store, the ones that have the soft suede texture, and it seems to be working great! I wear these gloves basically all day at my job, and while they're not water proof, they are water (and oil) resistant which is perfect for what I need. I need gloves that are puncture resistant, hence the leather, but untreated ones quickly absorb oil and moisture. So this has been a great fix.
Thanks for the confirmation that it works on leather!
@@Nighthawkinlight does it work as well with synthetic fabric???
@@iraa9935 I think it'll depend what it's made of. Do a spot test with the naphtha, to make sure it doesn't melt/dissolve the fibres. The other thing is going to be the durability aspects. If the weaved fibres are not plentiful/high thread count; the end result won't benefit as much from the qualities of the fabric (though it should still provide a structure to the applied silicone). Maybe the recommendation for application to rucksacks and similar is appropriate; make the mix a little thicker with more silicone and less naphtha, possibly paint it onto the sheet, laid out flat on the ground (hard ground with no finish that will be damaged by naphtha! - outdoors ideal). Once dry or mostly dry, you could do the other side. Completely dry to keep it clean and prevent picking up too much debris from the ground. If you lay a plastic sheet under it, of a material plastic tested the same way as in the video, then it'll be easier to keep the new cloth clean when treating it on one or both sides.
Hmm, maybe I'll try that for the leather inserts in my slip-on shoes.
ahhh yes,.. i make dusters,.. had a snake deteriorate after a decade, i think this would be great to do to repel water from snakehide,... i will have to do something on that scale with this method, would be very cool
Very cool vid. We're about to replace a set of sheets, so this will definitely come in handy. Now that was all pretty great, but the BUTTON TECHNOLOGY was *mind blowing*. Of course a pebble/nut and a slip knot. Simplicity always has its own elegance. Brilliant.
They'll be uncomfortable to sleep in after doing this though.😄
you can use the pebble knot to strip the hide off deer also
Same! It was "light bulb goes on lol"
@@carmineredd1198 every deer season several hides each year has the pebble knot used and has been for many years here. An 'Ol timer back then seen me fighting a hide as a child and offered some advice ..... that's been neigh on 50 years and have been using it ever since.
I know - wow - so happy to hear of that one..the old KISS theory - keep it simple stupid LOL
You don't need a pebble. If you tie a simple knot on the end of the rope you can use that as the "pebble" and then just slip knot around it. Been using it in the field for years. You'd be surprised how often a good stone is elusive
This comment should be up there with the 10,000 likes
Really? Here we grow rocks.
@@dogscratchedoor same here in Wisconsin. The farmer's first crop every spring and it's always the kid's job to go pick them out of fields.
@@dogscratchedoor I have a little rock farm on my window sill, right next to the basil
I would imagine a coin about the width of your thumb would also work also, if you happen to have some change in your pocket.
You are the BEST TEACHER I have ever seen!! And the information is so pertinent and functional!
The most absolute useful thing I've seen on UA-cam yet. Thank you... you saved me hundreds. I am a hiker/camper these are light enough to pack and heavy enough to offer warmth and dry without destroying my expensive tarps for tarp camping.
What would you use your expensive tarps for, if not for tarp camping? Might be a silly question, but aren't tarps mainly used for that exact purpose?
ARe they as noisy as actual tarps? Could we call these more quiet tarps?
@@Mdaberk71 I can tell you from experience these are as quiet as they were when they were still simple sheets
@@DKFX1 I take a lot of care for my good tarps. Homemade tarps I would be abusive. Like over stretching or just using a stick to prop the center up instead of toggles and paracord
Agreed, same. Money saved!
Brilliant! Especially liked the "button" technique. I imagine that method of connecting fabric to fabric was used in prehistoric times, and no trace endured for us to see and admire.
In fact, I'm going to take this technique to show to my button club next week. A very different kind of button that I'm sure none of us has even thought of.
Another thing to keep the tarp from ripping, is to use bungee cord in addition to rope to allow the wind to be able to stretch out the tie down spots. Tie a rope between trees, attach the tarp to the rope with bungees. I used to rip all my tarps until I learned that trick.
Good tip!
post picture please
good idea... bunjee cords seem to always deteriorate after a season or two though so i dont like buying them anymore if theyre going to end up in the trash so soon
excellent tip.
I just came back to check mixing ratios as it has been awhile since I watched this. So if I've not said it before I'll say it now - This is a Great Video! A excellent example of how YT vids should be. No wasted time and to the point. I wish others would follow yr example.
Not only that but your subject matter is why I'm here, I really like your channel😁
Great video! I'll have to make a nice tarp out of the old bedsheets. Also, I recently used a mix of mineral spirits and silicone to seal our concrete wash basin. The old concrete had developed some hairline cracks that would drip when our washing machine emptied into the basin. One thick coat with silicone/mineral spirits, no more drip! But wow did that mineral spirits stink up the house for a good week. So much for odorless.
That must be an older way of doing wash. I recall my grandmother having that setup. On the flip side, there is the opportunity for reusing the wash water.
Use silicone oil in place of solvent (no vapor).
I believe that it should. The silicone will chemically cure and bond to the fabric. The only reasonable way to separate the two is by burning the thing and collecting the gases 😆
Good work, brother. Keep it up. Self-sufficiency is the best way to independence and security.
@@cmrecek Have you tried that method? If so what was your ratio?
As an overall comment, so many UA-cam videos are not really useful, they are pointless or just wrong. I actually got the two things you were telling us about and they will inspire us all to greatness. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
This sounds like a great way to make designer shower curtains. And I love the button!
I like the way you think!!!
And table cloths!
I want to make my pants waterproof
@@user-sg2yt6nc1z just get a diaper
@@user-tr2dh4xx6u cant wear diaper doing my security job lol
Solvent: 3 quarters of the solvent to fabric
Silicone: 1 to 5, silicone to solvent
As soon as You said "silicone" i knew exactly what the method was, yet it did not occur to me before! Great idea, I will totally waterproof my backpack this way as the factory coating is slowly degrading and I see signs of leakage in the top pouch.
Did that about 30 years ago.
It works beautifully.
Loved watching it again.
this is a very helpful, easy to follow vid for waterproofing fabric. i'm going to try this, as i'm sick of tarps dying in the wind, and sheet plastic dying in the sun. both leave a horrible mess to clean up. there's always a ton of old sheets for next to nothing at garage sales, and they're just a couple months away. sew a few together with lapped seams, and i'll have a mega tarp on the cheap. thanx!
Naptha is highly flammable, do a flame test on a tiny scalp of material and you be very surprised.
@@peterbeyer5755 well, it is what zippo lighter fluid basically consists of. so yeah, highly flammable is an understatement.
@@handyhippie6548 Does that mean the treated sheets would be highly flammable? Or does the flammable component evaporate as they cure?
@@evenstar42 the naphtha would evaporate away as it cures. most oil based paints and stains use a flammable solvent as a carrier for the pigments that evaporates away. the liquid paint is flammable, but the dried paint isn't. this is the same. it uses the naphtha as a solvent carrier for the silicone allowing the fabric to absorb it better, then evaporates leaving the solid silicone component behind. although cotton sheets are themselves flammable, i actually think the silicone treatment would make them less so.
@@handyhippie6548 Thanks! That was kinda what I figured but wanted to make sure!
Now this was an excellent how-to/diy instructional video! Clear, concise, and skillfully demonstrated. Everything we needed, nothing we didn't. Wonderfully focused. 💯🎯
This would make excellent cushion covers for patio furniture.
That’s why I’m here! I just actually need new stain/waterproof fabric for dining room chairs! I have the fabric and don’t want to buy anything else but it’s light colored and I’m not about to attempt it without some kind of treatment
Also for yacht berth and cockpit upholstery....methinks 🤔
I would waterproof the top and edges but allow the bottom to drain and/or dry if moisture winds up getting in through any defect. We found that wood fully painted would rot at the bottom of the boards from retaining water, but we could prevent this by not coating a portion of the back and bottom and they would last much longer. I am thinking cushions might be similar in this regard.
Great ideas!
Great idea
This dude is an instructional/how to video legend!!! No off topic bull s*** chatter.
Thank you for not wasting our time and teaching me how to make a waterproof tarp out of an old bed sheet. Plus the added button tie down bonus.
I've never in my life seen someone use the button technique. That seems like a superb idea, I wish I had known it sooner
Big Button (LLC) doesn't want you to know.
Textilers hate him! UA-camr fixes cloth to hardpoints without stitching or cutting with this one weird trick
@@InnuendoXP I used golf balls I had lying around. Did not know it had a name...
It is a neat life hack for camping
lol i've used those buttons in my street riggings. I thought i invented them and this is the first time i ever saw a precedent
I’ve used marbles for years.
Thanks for super info. I lost my $175 goretex jacket. I'll now waterproof a cheaper nice one, & need a big tent cover also.
I really enjoy how he explains processes. It is so clear and straightforward.
I've been watching you since I was 12, you've taught me a lot and helped me pursue my current career goals for becoming an engineer. Just wanted to say thanks 👍
This is brilliant! I have long stocked virtually all common solvents but didn't know this. In a SHTF scenario, being able to stay dry can easily spell the difference between life and death.
This is usually a scam.
Finally! A no-nonsense tutorial, making this person and video more appealing than those that try to be.👍X2
Hmm.. interesting, here is a couple ideas for "part 2":
- What would happen if you stretch the fabric really good (have it pre-tensioned like they do with concrete) before silicone set, would it make the fabric stiffer ?
- How if you give same treatment to a cardboard ? would it turn amzon box into water tight cooler or temporary water storage ? see where I'm going with that ?…
Very good questions, hope he follows through
1. it would wrinkle up when you take the tension off. 2. yes
I've used silicone solution on cardboard, it makes an amazingly useful material. Lightweight, easy to cut or pre-form into unique shapes, and if you bond 2 or more layers together in the drying process, it can become shockingly durable. If you used it to make a water bin though, I think it would warp from the weight, and eventually leak, cuz water gets really heavy in large amounts. So you'd need some kind of rigid box first, maybe plywood. And at that point, you may as well just paint the plywood with pure silicone and skip the cardboard. At which point really you have a "treated wooden trough".
UV breaks down silicone caulk in about 5-20 years outdoors. But if you paint over it with something very UV resistant, you could extend that considerably. Truck bed liner comes to mind. Even if the truck bed liner breaks down, as long as it shades the underlying silicone, it would last a really long time. I'm curious how 2-ply silicone bathed cardboard, top-coated with truck bed liner, would work as roofing tiles.
I made a box/tray for the trunk of my car with 2-ply silicone bathed cardboard. It's warped to fit an odd shaped area which otherwise isn't very useful space in the trunk. 2-bins with a divider. It's had various things spill inside it, from oil to grocery store milk. It protected the trunk's carpet, and stays in place well. Keeps things from shifting around much.
It's a good insulation material, both thermally and acoustically. Easy to trim, and 1-ply can be bent for odd shaped areas. The rigidity goes up shockingly fast the more layers you bond together though. So you'll need to warp multi-layer laminates before they dry if you want unique shapes. Can be used in place of foam-board for many things too.
I've also used just pure silicone caulk to bond together pieces of plastic. Like the stuff they use for 32oz cups at the quick-mart. It gets drastically stronger & more rigid when bonded in layers, because to bend, the layers have to slide past each other slightly, and the silicone doesn't want to allow that. Basically the same idea as in laminated wood, which was the main material for WWII aircraft, where thin bonded sheets are more rigid than a single piece of wood of the same thickness, and you can warp it before it cures to make more interesting shapes (though germany went with a saw-dust+epoxy blend which was a bit like MDF).
There's probably better materials for it on an industrial scale, but silicone solution bathing of porous materials, and silicone bonding of layered materials, gives you a lot of "back-yard" options to make interesting things.
It probably will work on cartboard but i'm not so sure it whould be foodsafe or watertight.
@@Erbmon yeah, better as a cooler than as a water bin. Could buy some tempered glass & make an aquarium though. that'd be food-safe water storage (for a while).
God bless you for just sharing some really useful information without a whole bunch of time wasting and unnecessary trivia added in
You are priceless
Well narrated. Easy to follow, simple, step by step instructions. No annoying music or dramatizations.
Great video!!
I love your videos. No stupid music no stupid intro just clear cut pure information.
This is awesome! There’s no doubt that silicon makes a great water repellent, but I had no idea that you could dissolve it down with a solvent and apply it to things like sheets. Very cool!
Same thing is used to seam seal tents, it's been a thing for years.
@@Shadow_Wraith imagine if fabsil been selling us cheap silicone and solvent 😂
Right! I want to make waterproof jeans for wearing in a motorcycle on cloudy days
@@skie6282 I wouldn't think they would be very breathable. Imagine how a plastic raincoat feels, and they at least get air circulation at the bottom. Good for not getting wet, but all day wear could create some issues from condensation, and sweating.
@@skie6282 ive had mixed results w/ WP pants on my bike. used the high end breathable WP pants from sports stores and >80kph the water was forced right through the fabric soaking my shins (tops of my legs were fine). i still think the best WP bike pants are the cheapest rubber/plastic ones -chuck it in a saddle bag or a fender bag and throw it on when it dumps
"Just like that I have a waterproof cloak." This is the fashion advice we need. You can never have too many capes and cloaks.
I need a waterproof cloak infused with intelligence any ideas?
Concise, accurate, useful, nice camera work. Our host is damned good teacher.
Yes, all you tube videos should be this good. Tarps are so expensive and don’t last nearly long enough. Thank you for this simple fix. Love the button idea.
You could get sheets for 2 dollars
at a thrift store.
Thank you so much!! I now have a way to make horse blankets that don't cost an arm and leg, and then get destroyed on the first wearing. And, with the button truck, I can actually get said blankets to fit properly!! Double win! Thanks for the info 😁
ive always had doubt about the durability of spray on water resistant coatings, this definitely seems like a better waterproofing method.
I think spray on coatings are often a very similar silicone and solvent mixture. This method I think is longer lasting because you get way more silicone soaked into the fabric instead of a surface layer.
@@Nighthawkinlight I think the spray is mostly starch.
there's also the ones that wash in but i'd imagine that a whole bag of 20% silicone gives you a lot more waterproofing than anything you can put in a washing machine.
Do you mean just the consumer level stuff?
@@Nighthawkinlight I believe it’s more like a silicone oil. I don’t think it hardens/cures like tube silicone.
This video is just like a small nugget of gold you find along the way. It put a smile on my face.
the best video on this topic as he provides the ratios of silicone to solvent and the volume needed for the sheet. He also provides a ratio for the volume of the item being treated. Seriously informative so watch this one and ignore the others, everything you need to know is here. thanks for such a helpful guide video 10/10
UPDATE. Because its hard to get naptha I was forced to use turpentine. At first it looked as though the silicone wouldn't dissolve but after about 10 mins of mixing everything was dissolved into a clear liquid. I used the exact ration suggested in the video and 1.5L of turps with 300g of silicone was just enough to fully treat a king sized cotton sheet. Perfect result. The sheet was hung dry and then left in the sun for a day to ensure that there was no turps smell, none. I then treated 100m or para cord, the zip off legs for my tramping pants and some colour faded swim shorts. All worked perfectly. I added some paint to the mix for my swim shorts and they are no longer faded with the added bonus of instant dry after a swim. This process works perfectly
Once I waterproofed bottom part of my suede boots with just silicone. It stood up for five years, the boots are fine, but silicone starts to peel off. I thought of that improvement as 'half-good', now I understand where and why I missed that half. Thank you so much!
Did you thin the silicone like he did? I want to do this to a couple pairs of my boots.
@@White000Crow no. I used it as is, it started to peel off after 5yrs. Now I'm planning to thin next batch down
@@petramarishko 5 years is quite impressive for using it as is. Could you imagine if actually saturated the suede and soaked through? My only concern is they would become more like rubber boots and your feet couldn’t breathe.
@@White000Crow those boots was strangely constructed or 'designed'. The heels was wrapped in the upper material too low, only thin sheet of rubber between suede and the ground. It was winter boots, made for snow, but it is always way too much salt and salty waters on the roads around me. So I waterproofed only that part of the suede, wich came close to the ground. It looked ok, because this boots already had a lot of 'sporty' rubber details. I don't know if it's possible to make clear edge, as I did, with thinned silicone, I need to think about it. Maybe I shoud use thin strip of pure silicone to mark the border...
Just to be clear you should state that you are using silicone caulking. It really makes a difference. If you go into a hardware store and ask for a tube of silicone they will ask for more information. I know it’s pedantic but may help someone get the correct product at the store. Otherwise this is a super cool idea and I can’t wait to waterproof the crap out of all of my outdoor fabrics. Thanks for this idea. It’s much appreciated!!
thanks for clarifying that. That helps me.
100% silicone caulking
Do you mean like silicone bathroom sealant? thanks
If the sales personnel ask you for more information on what kind of silicone you want, what else do you think they're thinking of?
Other caulking materials like acrylic are not silicone and thus not what you're looking for.
If, however, they ask you whether you want tin-cure or 2 component platinum-cure, go with the latter if you can, as tin-cure silicones are not skin-safe
I recently did a beeswax coating on a "rain" jacket which leaked like a sill, it worked but became pretty ridgid and changed color, going to try this next time!
Silicone fabrics on the skin can be very irritating. Make a test piece first, like a bandana. If you can wear the bandana for a day, then I would try it on a coat.
Seems like it didn't soak through, maybe some heating would help?
@@zachcoldwell7978 Silicone allergy is somewhat rare, and just like any other allergy to most people it's not a problem at all but to those few it's very painful.
And your recommendation of testing it on the face is really silly.. Just wrap it around the forearm above the wrist so it's the least irritating it can be if you are allergic to it.
@@Spiralem I did heat it up and it did work fairly well, the jacket is quite usable, but as I say, a bit ridgid still after the heating, I could't heat too much as there was a lot of plastic in the jacket which started to burn at quite low temperatures.
@@dannes22 hair dryer.not too much heat.cheaper than heat gun,especially if you find a working one while yardsaleing for bed sheets and half full cans of naptha.one man's junk...
Fascinating, I learned a lot. I'm completely sold on the bedsheet idea, considering the sheet is already lighter and much more durable than a plastic tarp. I'll use the button idea too, great video!
I am impressed beyond measure. I sew, belong to a historical group, am interested in historical fabrics and garmet making and am always trying to problem solve in a non-ugly way.
To be able to waterproof regular fabric just answered my prayers.
I love the discussion on the pitfalls of using grommets.
I plan on repairing a few patio umbrellas and a storm damaged my fabric gazebo topper.
Well Sir now I have some solutions..
Good stuff, though for extended outdoor use it's probably a good idea to add a UV protectant, too. Even just adding a cup of external house paint to the silicone/solvent blend will cover the sheet in protective pigments meant for outdoor use and extend the life of the cloth significantly. That trick comes from the DIY faux-fiberglass recipe, where you use bedsheets and exterior housepaint to make waterproof boat hulls or other foamboard creations.
House paint is a good idea. A scoop of lampblack is good also
Hi, do you have a link to the DIY faux fiberglass technique, especially for making a boat?
@@Nedwsearch poor man’s fiberglass
This reminds me of a technology called “poor mans fiberglass”. Basically hard shell waterproof items from bedsheets and wood glue. Boats campers etc.
That's a great trick
If you ever get into wooden bow making, you'll find that all kinds of glues in all kinds of fabric are common backings especially among the more experimentally minded of us.
It is amazing what PVA glue and thin linen fabric can do.
Incredible! Thank you for this lesson! Im tired of expensive tarps shredding into pieces after one use and my creative side is working at full mode right now thinking on how else I can use it.
Quality information as always!
A true complement, especially coming from such a respectable gentleman.
Love you man!
Hey Max, I just looked up your DIY recycling Grommets Video (about the Kanoo) because they are the perfect Combination with this Tarp in my opinion. Then I see your Comment 😅♥️
@@BeckyYork Prob not but then neither is goretex after about 6 months, plus it's super expensive PLUS no more £$£$ for the genuinely evil DuPont corp with this. Abs no brainer for me.
@@BeckyYork Well yes, waxed cotton has been around for at least a couple of century's, my very first bike jacket was a wax cotton Belstaff. Are you dissolving the wax to make it more liquid, if so what with ?