monitor1862-Thank you for posting comment-I knew about this slug for LONG time,but never needed to get it. But with this rifled barrel, time to get this mold-And having cast it, and shot it 14 times-the search for accuracy, power and consistency is over-the Mossberg 500 slug barrel (and others no doubt) and this slug is a DANDY combination.And it only takes 20-23 grains of Unique for a real blaster.The guy next to me kept telling his girlfriend with the Glock22, that there was cannon going off.
Chris Halas-The AAs are made in red, gray, and charcoal-black(same shell -reg, handicap, and max handicap). I only had 14 wads to work with and loaded the 5 red AAs with the max listed Unique charge. Then I loaded 7 of the gray AAs with a 10% lower charge 23 - 2.3=20.7 That used up 12 of my available wads and I remembered that I wanted to do some STS so there are your 2 STS. But the results of this small testing were spectacular-no flyers and one hole groups. Thanks for questions..
oldpoulan-Thanks for the comment and question. You are way ahead of the curve -took me 35 years to get to this Lyman slug. It's a great slug. The WAA12 wad works just fine in place of the 114. 20.7-23 grains of Unique works fine as you saw...I'm thinking of dropping to 19 for a reduced recoil range load.BTW - no need to quench these slugs - quenching hardens and slugs need soft, not hard. Watch out for zinc WWs-no good in your alloy-any WWs that float after others melt is a no-no. Best regards
Terry Wilson-Thanks for the great information - makes sense because Longshot was developed for handicap target shooting and hunting - not the real fast target powder, but slower burning - and that is what we want for slug loads. I'll have to put the nab on the next Longshot I run into... Best Regards...
matthew hoover-Shotgun slugs are individual for the barrel they are fired from. Whichever of the Lee slugs or the Lyman 525 shoots more accurate in your barrel with the load you want, that's the one for you. So testing is required. The Lyman has the disadvantage that it is heavy 1 1/4 oz. It can't be driven as fast as the Lees. Nothing wrong with the Lee 1 or 7/8 oz slugs if they shoot well in your shotgun. Best Regards...
matthew hoover-Been shooting Lee slugs for a lot of years, and what I've learned is that our slug systems that employ our cast slugs to be loaded into trap and target wads (that were never designed for slugs) will not shoot as accurately as factory slugs. Reason is that factory slugs are loaded with proprietary slug/wad systems that are unavailable to reloaders. So I've always said we can use our own slugs for practice, fun recreational shooting, short range shooting, but for serious-use factory
matthew hoover-Thanks for your comments…Lee molds - after I use 'em about ten times, they are pretty much for wear - If I were another shooter looking to buy them, I'd pass on 'em and just buy new molds - they only cost around $19 a mold. The Lyman would be different, I'd buy them used, but if I had 'em, I wouldn't be selling the Lyman mold. Best Regards..I use all the Lee slug molds and the Lyman as well. Just need some AA12 wads...
matthew hoover-These are actually shooting nice and accurate, but I ran out of AA12 wads and until I get more, I can't do more testing, but I still suspect that when I go to 50 and 100 yards, the groups will not compare well with factory Foster in smooth or especially with sabot slugs in rifled barrels.
what barrel and or choke was used? i have shot many of these and they shoot well, but they tumble. open choke, rifled choke, roll crimp, fold crimp. always tumble. so am curious is a rifled barrel the only way to make they fly correctly? i have found the rolled crimp chews the wad up worse. seems to exit from a fold crimp a little cleaner.
What are you shooting them from? They fly very well out to about 70 yards from my Mossy 500 modified choke smoothbore, but they tumble after 50 from my Mossy 935 which has an over-bored barrel, perhaps you are having a similar issue. I run 24 grains of Alliant Green Dot with a WAA-12 wad and fold crimp, so far that's the most accurate loading I've found for my Mossy 500. They shoot _very_ well out to 100+ yards from my H&R rifled single shot with a 20" barrel, they definitely do like rifled barrels but work alright in smoothbores if you have a tight enough bore.
@@TheExplosiveGuy a remington 870. the rolled crimp is certainly messing up my wads. this kills the spin. folded crimp helps alot. but folded shell with rifled choke, they still tumble sometimes
@univalve1 What wads are you using? I've never shot them from a rifled choke, only smoothbore and fully rifled so I don't have much to add on that aspect, but maybe you need to try a different wad? I know the Lyman manual says not to roll crimp them, fold crimp only, but if they're also tumbling with a fold crimp I don't really know what to tell you, maybe you do need to just go with a fully rifled setup...
if you want a real "blast", try the federal one piece hulls, and longshot(aka loudshot), they tend to fly at full loading nearly 1600 fps, and overall ideal for actual hunting. practice, 75% of the load makes a ideal loading as you can visit your range with 100-150 of them and feels like a day of trap shooting at least on my 11-87 shotgun.
matthew hoover- Sorry to report that I don't have a range nearby that I can shoot slugs out to 200 yards. And besides, if the best I can do is 8" groups at 100, 200 will not be pretty. I estimate that 100 yards is the max range for hunting any medium sized game. The slugs (either Lees or Lyman) are good for 100 yards and in best performance. We should only shoot as far as our rigs will allow us to take game cleanly…of course, you know this already…Best Regards...
I dont know y but the lee slugs dont shoot will at all i have a 590a1 . But i went from centurion and u can group them at rang almost dibble the rang the lee will group at .
Quick questions what is the difference between the gray AAs and the Red AAs for reloading purposes? Is there a reason you used the lighter charge with the STS and AA Grays and the heavier charge with the AA Reds?
gunnwild1-with the ammo situation now and other times in future, reloading is going to be a great idea. If you can get your lead for low cost, you can shoot these slugs for less that 20 CENTS a shot. I get my lead at 0 cost so my cost is 12 CENTS a shot. That sir, is $12 a hundred. .06 for powder, .04 for primer, .02 for wad - use hulls over 10x and press has paid for itself many times over in last 35 years. Good loadin' 'n' good shootin' to ya...
brent338 Thanks for the good question. --Smooth. But you can shoot them from rifled barrels provided that you can push the wad/slub combo through the rifled bore with a long wooden dowel. If you can't, you need to switch to wads that have thinner petals or the petals will strip off and bad accuracy happens. If the slug will not drop through the barrel on it's own, but you are using pure lead, you can shoot that slug through the barrel bare (but that shouldn't happen as the slugs are not designed to go through bare). The above is true for smooth barrels also. Good shootin' to ya
+Ibpn - problem is that this slug is a bit sub caliber and designed to be placed inside current trap cup wads. These wads are for progressive burn powders and should not be used with black powder. Black powder is best shot with slugs that have skirts riding either smooth or rifled barrels bare and wadded with filler and overpowder type of wads. These can be in plastic or metal hull shotshells. And the Lyman slug is an overheavy 1 1/4 oz slug. I have a sneaking hunch your charge of 2f is intended for Foster 1 oz slugs. So I could not recommend that 60-80 which is a big range also...Good shootin' to ya... -- FC
+FortuneCookie45LC Excuse me my friend!!! What kind of choke is best for lyman 525 using smooth bore? My shotgun(yildz P71), has five types of choke 1, 2, 3 ,4 ,5 (Number 1 is full choke, number 5 is the biggest- cylinder). On choke number two slug can pass but not with sabot wad. The slug only pass thru the barrel (with sabot wad) using cylinder choke. Without sabot wad slug will be fine on choke number 2 . What is the best choice for best precision without damage the gun? Thanks, have a nice day?
+Zammis Simões -- Thanks for your question - If you can push the slug/wad combo through the #2 choke with a wooden dowel, it will be OK. Problem is if you can't push it through without a lot of effort, then the wad will strip when you shoot the wad/slug through = bad accuracy. But even if it is tight, as long as you can push it through, that slug/wad combo is OK. Your #2 is the Improved Cylinder choke - and we are usually good with our #1 cylinder or #2 IC chokes. The #1 choke is the easiest solution - the instructions tell you cylinder bore anyway. Good shootin' to ya, FC
+TubeYou -- Don't know about the 29 with Universal - but since we are talking slugs here - the Lee recipes for the 7/8 oz calls for 30 grains of Universal with the Fed Gold Medal Hull, Fed primers, 12S0 wad ; and the 1 oz slug at 28 grains; Federal Gold Medal Hull; Win primer; Federal 12S3 wad - I haven't used Universal for slugs yet, but now that I have it, it's only a matter of time to get some loaded up... Best Regards, FC
monitor1862-Thank you for posting comment-I knew about this slug for LONG time,but never needed to get it. But with this rifled barrel, time to get this mold-And having cast it, and shot it 14 times-the search for accuracy, power and consistency is over-the Mossberg 500 slug barrel (and others no doubt) and this slug is a DANDY combination.And it only takes 20-23 grains of Unique for a real blaster.The guy next to me kept telling his girlfriend with the Glock22, that there was cannon going off.
Chris Halas-The AAs are made in red, gray, and charcoal-black(same shell -reg, handicap, and max handicap). I only had 14 wads to work with and loaded the 5 red AAs with the max listed Unique charge. Then I loaded 7 of the gray AAs with a 10% lower charge 23 - 2.3=20.7 That used up 12 of my available wads and I remembered that I wanted to do some STS so there are your 2 STS. But the results of this small testing were spectacular-no flyers and one hole groups. Thanks for questions..
oldpoulan-Thanks for the comment and question. You are way ahead of the curve -took me 35 years to get to this Lyman slug. It's a great slug. The WAA12 wad works just fine in place of the 114. 20.7-23 grains of Unique works fine as you saw...I'm thinking of dropping to 19 for a reduced recoil range load.BTW - no need to quench these slugs - quenching hardens and slugs need soft, not hard. Watch out for zinc WWs-no good in your alloy-any WWs that float after others melt is a no-no. Best regards
Terry Wilson-Thanks for the great information - makes sense because Longshot was developed for handicap target shooting and hunting - not the real fast target powder, but slower burning - and that is what we want for slug loads. I'll have to put the nab on the next Longshot I run into... Best Regards...
matthew hoover-Shotgun slugs are individual for the barrel they are fired from. Whichever of the Lee slugs or the Lyman 525 shoots more accurate in your barrel with the load you want, that's the one for you. So testing is required. The Lyman has the disadvantage that it is heavy 1 1/4 oz. It can't be driven as fast as the Lees. Nothing wrong with the Lee 1 or 7/8 oz slugs if they shoot well in your shotgun. Best Regards...
Great information. Unique is my favorite shotgun powder, but very hard to come by in these times.
matthew hoover-Been shooting Lee slugs for a lot of years, and what I've learned is that our slug systems that employ our cast slugs to be loaded into trap and target wads (that were never designed for slugs) will not shoot as accurately as factory slugs. Reason is that factory slugs are loaded with proprietary slug/wad systems that are unavailable to reloaders. So I've always said we can use our own slugs for practice, fun recreational shooting, short range shooting, but for serious-use factory
matthew hoover-Thanks for your comments…Lee molds - after I use 'em about ten times, they are pretty much for wear - If I were another shooter looking to buy them, I'd pass on 'em and just buy new molds - they only cost around $19 a mold. The Lyman would be different, I'd buy them used, but if I had 'em, I wouldn't be selling the Lyman mold. Best Regards..I use all the Lee slug molds and the Lyman as well. Just need some AA12 wads...
matthew hoover-These are actually shooting nice and accurate, but I ran out of AA12 wads and until I get more, I can't do more testing, but I still suspect that when I go to 50 and 100 yards, the groups will not compare well with factory Foster in smooth or especially with sabot slugs in rifled barrels.
I guess im trying to ask is are they better then lee slugs and if so how much ? Can u print at max range off of a stable spot and show what happen.
Because i got the lee one but it is only good to like 75 yards but if the Lyman will do like 150 i want to buy it
So if u had sold bouth your slug molds and made money lets say would u buy the Lyman or the lee and y
Fantastic job sir. I want to start reloading soon, these videos will be helpful
Can u do some at 150 -200 yards
what barrel and or choke was used?
i have shot many of these and they shoot well, but they tumble.
open choke, rifled choke, roll crimp, fold crimp. always tumble. so am curious is a rifled barrel the only way to make they fly correctly?
i have found the rolled crimp chews the wad up worse. seems to exit from a fold crimp a little cleaner.
What are you shooting them from? They fly very well out to about 70 yards from my Mossy 500 modified choke smoothbore, but they tumble after 50 from my Mossy 935 which has an over-bored barrel, perhaps you are having a similar issue. I run 24 grains of Alliant Green Dot with a WAA-12 wad and fold crimp, so far that's the most accurate loading I've found for my Mossy 500. They shoot _very_ well out to 100+ yards from my H&R rifled single shot with a 20" barrel, they definitely do like rifled barrels but work alright in smoothbores if you have a tight enough bore.
@@TheExplosiveGuy a remington 870. the rolled crimp is certainly messing up my wads. this kills the spin. folded crimp helps alot. but folded shell with rifled choke, they still tumble sometimes
@univalve1 What wads are you using? I've never shot them from a rifled choke, only smoothbore and fully rifled so I don't have much to add on that aspect, but maybe you need to try a different wad? I know the Lyman manual says not to roll crimp them, fold crimp only, but if they're also tumbling with a fold crimp I don't really know what to tell you, maybe you do need to just go with a fully rifled setup...
Great Video!
bulboo1-Thanks to you for posting...
if you want a real "blast", try the federal one piece hulls, and longshot(aka loudshot), they tend to fly at full loading nearly 1600 fps, and overall ideal for actual hunting. practice, 75% of the load makes a ideal loading as you can visit your range with 100-150 of them and feels like a day of trap shooting at least on my 11-87 shotgun.
Your opinion of witch is better for grouping. Lee 7/8 oz or the Lyman pellet slug@ 50 yards.
matthew hoover- Sorry to report that I don't have a range nearby that I can shoot slugs out to 200 yards. And besides, if the best I can do is 8" groups at 100, 200 will not be pretty. I estimate that 100 yards is the max range for hunting any medium sized game. The slugs (either Lees or Lyman) are good for 100 yards and in best performance. We should only shoot as far as our rigs will allow us to take game cleanly…of course, you know this already…Best Regards...
Thumbs up! Thanks.
I dont know y but the lee slugs dont shoot will at all i have a 590a1 . But i went from centurion and u can group them at rang almost dibble the rang the lee will group at .
Quick questions what is the difference between the gray AAs and the Red AAs for reloading purposes? Is there a reason you used the lighter charge with the STS and AA Grays and the heavier charge with the AA Reds?
They seem to be tumbling
nickglass12-And thank you again for your continued interest and support of a great industry, a great pursuit, and a great 2nd Amendment.
В каком баллистическом калькуляторе можно посчитать их гироскопическую стабильность?
gunnwild1-with the ammo situation now and other times in future, reloading is going to be a great idea. If you can get your lead for low cost, you can shoot these slugs for less that 20 CENTS a shot. I get my lead at 0 cost so my cost is 12 CENTS a shot. That sir, is $12 a hundred. .06 for powder, .04 for primer, .02 for wad - use hulls over 10x and press has paid for itself many times over in last 35 years. Good loadin' 'n' good shootin' to ya...
I never reduced my loads with unique with the AA12.Saw no difference in pressure.22.9
soo was this smooth bore, or rifled?
brent338 Thanks for the good question. --Smooth. But you can shoot them from rifled barrels provided that you can push the wad/slub combo through the rifled bore with a long wooden dowel. If you can't, you need to switch to wads that have thinner petals or the petals will strip off and bad accuracy happens. If the slug will not drop through the barrel on it's own, but you are using pure lead, you can shoot that slug through the barrel bare (but that shouldn't happen as the slugs are not designed to go through bare). The above is true for smooth barrels also. Good shootin' to ya
+FortuneCookie45LC ... I load 12 ga shells with 60 - 80 grains by volume of 2f black powder, any idea how these slugs would work with this load?
+Ibpn - problem is that this slug is a bit sub caliber and designed to be placed inside current trap cup wads. These wads are for progressive burn powders and should not be used with black powder. Black powder is best shot with slugs that have skirts riding either smooth or rifled barrels bare and wadded with filler and overpowder type of wads. These can be in plastic or metal hull shotshells. And the Lyman slug is an overheavy 1 1/4 oz slug. I have a sneaking hunch your charge of 2f is intended for Foster 1 oz slugs. So I could not recommend that 60-80 which is a big range also...Good shootin' to ya... -- FC
+FortuneCookie45LC Excuse me my friend!!! What kind of choke is best for lyman 525 using smooth bore? My shotgun(yildz P71), has five types of choke 1, 2, 3 ,4 ,5 (Number 1 is full choke, number 5 is the biggest- cylinder). On choke number two slug can pass but not with sabot wad. The slug only pass thru the barrel (with sabot wad) using cylinder choke. Without sabot wad slug will be fine on choke number 2 . What is the best choice for best precision without damage the gun? Thanks, have a nice day?
+Zammis Simões -- Thanks for your question - If you can push the slug/wad combo through the #2 choke with a wooden dowel, it will be OK. Problem is if you can't push it through without a lot of effort, then the wad will strip when you shoot the wad/slug through = bad accuracy. But even if it is tight, as long as you can push it through, that slug/wad combo is OK. Your #2 is the Improved Cylinder choke - and we are usually good with our #1 cylinder or #2 IC chokes. The #1 choke is the easiest solution - the instructions tell you cylinder bore anyway. Good shootin' to ya, FC
What ballistic calculator, you can calculate their gyroscopic stability?
Sorry, no mention of a ballistic calculator in this video... Have a great day, FC
What do you think of the 29.0 Univ Clays recipe?
+TubeYou -- Don't know about the 29 with Universal - but since we are talking slugs here - the Lee recipes for the 7/8 oz calls for 30 grains of Universal with the Fed Gold Medal Hull, Fed primers, 12S0 wad ; and the 1 oz slug at 28 grains; Federal Gold Medal Hull; Win primer; Federal 12S3 wad - I haven't used Universal for slugs yet, but now that I have it, it's only a matter of time to get some loaded up... Best Regards, FC