The way Rob Cosman talks you can really tell he’s a teacher who has a well of knowledge that he is eager to share. It’s really nice to see a passionate teacher such as this.
Great book for a beginner . ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.
Never veneered, have never planned on veneering, yet here I am JUST BECAUSE it's taught by one of my favorite teachers and I know from history il learn about something I do want n ty rob cosman for your time and your sounding better!
I'm a combat disabled marine vet who loves the channel. Been trying to get back into wood working after some really difficult past few years. Just wanted to say thank you for the great videos and all that you guys do there.
Rob, I appreciate that you keep your blade guide down close to the wood on your band saw. I see lots of videos where the thing is all the way up and it seems so dangerous.
Thank you for another great learning experience. For cutting veneers on my band saw I wax the table, the bandsaw blade and the rip fence. The process seems to go smoother. When you are concerned about that glue fill repair in your veneer sticking to the foam wax the foam so the glue does not stick to it. I like it better than tape. I have not used MDF. but I will give it a try as a substrate. There were other neat bits of info buried in this video. Thank you again.
Watched this whole video start to finish, it's a great one. Just the right amount of editing to keep the pace up/keep viewers interested Luther (if you're the one editing). Oh, and nice woodworking skills too, Rob :)
With all the adjustments you made to tune the veneered top, it seems like making the top first might be the easiest way to build a bigger box. (Although making the top with thicker banding could make box first work.) Really enjoy the reality in your videos. Thanks.
To glue a crack in wood, I apply the shop vac hose to the back of the crack and apply glue to the front. The vacuum will pull the glue through the crack. Franklin Glue Co. says a 3/8-24 bolt thread is the best glue trowel. I use one, especially for tambour, because there is minimal squeeze out.
42:45 : Your tapping on the veneer to detect voids is exactly what aerospace firms do to detect voids in honeycomb sandwiched carbon fiber panels--but with fancier tools than fingers!
again, perfect timing for me. i just got a piece of birdseye that i have been trying to decide what to do with. i knew veneering was an option but have never had it laid out like this before. thanks again for sharing what you have learned from your teachers with us.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking The team you've put together is awesome and I dream of working in a shop like yours. Your craftmanship and knowledge is unparalleled, thank you so much for the years of inspiration!
I look forward to trying this technique on my next box. I have a nice piece of birdseye Maple and now know how to get the most of it. Thanks for the video Rob and team.
The scrub plane is a handy tool I'm finding. The jointer should have U.S.S. FLATWOOD painted on the side, maybe even paint it grey and have some model planes on the deck when not in use!
Great lesson~! Now I need to put my Laguna bandsaw to the task and try this myself. Looks like it's going to be boxes for Christmas gifts this year. Thanks Rob~!!
I have 2 old hand planes that belonged to some deceased family members. I always wondered how they were supposed to be used, and what they were for. The ones I have are in very bad shape so I doubt that they are salvageable. Thanks for the video It is nice learning something new.
Hi Rob, I took your advice and bought a tagi tape (the red one) just got it yesterday. I had to buy the metric one as we use millimetres over here. It looks a lot smaller than the one you are using but it's still a great tape, very accurate so thanks for that Rob
Perfect timing. I recently purchased some large pieces of black walnut with incredible grain patterns for box lids....now my lids will remain flat and I will get more lids out of each piece.
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I doubt that the time & effort to do this lamination could be recovered in the end price unless your boxes are extremely expensive! All the same an interesting process. If the wood lids shrink I would have thought it was due to the wood not being dry enough for the purpose. A bit longer on the shelf perhaps??? One concern; the gluing application with a trowel looks a bit hit & miss... aka Uneven. I would suggest a foam or rubber roller for spreading out & levelling the glue before the next step. 🙂
Rob, soon it will be getting very cold where I’m at, and I’ll have to transition to my basement for the first time for winter woodworking. What shop tools should I be building now to take with me (was thinking of trying to build a better shooting board and bench hook). I’ll be down to hand tools only once it gets too cold outside. Perhaps this would be a good topic for another video? How to prep for a tiny indoor winter wood shop? Tools, shop made tools, finishing supplies. Maybe even simple projects to continue doing during the winter to practice increasing skill, perhaps making boxes or gifts for family/friends.
Great video! After cleaning the crud off the foam rectangles to achieve even pressure, you then use masking tape to hold down the edges before clamping with the cauls/foam. Wouldn't that cause uneven pressure too? Or is it just too miniscule to worry about? Love your videos Rob! Thanks a million!
Good technique for warped board "fix" as follows using a power planer, take a piece of 1/2 plywood just larger than the board that's warped. Place the warped board on top of the plywood, put wedges under gaps and a stopper on one end of the warped board to keep it secure so it won't slide going into your planer. screwed down stopper at least 1/2" below the lowest part of the warped board so it can pass under the surface planer. Put painters tape under any big gaps and use hot glue to fill the gap/voids and secure the plywood to the warped board. Now run the warped board through your planer until you have the top side of the warped board nice and flat. Now you can flush cut the other warped side on band saw, or run it through the planer also. As long as the board is narrow enough to fit through your planer it will work great.
I've never used cambered cauls, but after the number of clamps needed + the 1" MDF, would that provide any easier/quicker clamping and still achieve the even pressure? I only started looking for 1" when starting the bench but haven't found it in Oklahoma. I initially thought you would not need as many clamps as you ended up using. You mention a vacuum press. I also have never used one of those, but will you be trying it in the upcoming videos for Christmas presents?
Never thought of it before, but a bolt head on the F-Clamp handles could really help with the tightening, you could even use a torque wrench to make all the same.
Would you ever set the veneer inside the box made by the 4 edge pieces to protect the edges of the veneer? When you stick the edge pieces why don't you line one end up with the carcass so you only have to plane/trim one end? My dad used to steam his veneers when they were twisted (and to conform them to rounded surfaces like the bands on a round table), is that still an OK method to resolve veneers which aren't flat?
Thanks for the lesson Rob. I don’t have a big bandsaw but I’d like to try making my own veneer. Have you ever tried hand cutting veneer? I’m guessing that’s how it was done pre-power tools. I can also see why a vacuum press would be a great idea if you were doing this regularly though.
Hey Rob, Nice outcome. In BC, we have aguy that recycles old car tires and makes mudflaps and pick-up box liners. It is quite dense but it is pliable and does conform to surfaces. I was wondering if that would be suitable as a cushion for your irregular glue-ups. let me know if you need contact info should you want to explore that option.
I was just wondering if you have ever tried vacuum bagging instead of the clamps? If so what did or didn't you like about it? Thanks for your time. I really like your videos. RCW
I made a lid out of solid book matched spalted beech- looked great for about 1 month- then turned into a potato chip as soon as summer hit..... Will try this method next time maybe!
As you were preparing to saw the first sheet of veneer I was wondering if it would have been easier to glue the walnut to the MDF before slicing the veneer. After seeing the whole process I guess not. I know that is is required to veneer both sides of lumber and plywood. But is it necessary to do both sides of MDF? I'm thinking of an application where the inside of the box would be covered with flocking. As to your method of teaching, it is outstanding. You don't rush through steps which makes it very easy to comprehend everything. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and please continue to stay healthy.
Yep same principle applies. Do to both sides so you have an equal amount of moisture to prevent cupping. Of course MDF is much less prone to warping but I still follow the general rule.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Glen - the flocking doesn't put the same tension (albeit light) as the veneer. But a secondary wood saves the good stock for more boxes and would not seem to add much in thickness. My question for Rob - Does the flocking change how the lid would fit if it is also flocked? How would you compensate if so, using the wood hinge? (I still need to watch any existing and the new ones coming out) Would you just use tape around the inside border to keep the flocking back?
Your use of a veneers ties into a question that I've been meaning to ask you. I haven't seen you use a surface or drum sander before and wonder if prepping veneers would be a good use for one.
I saw the prep of some Limited Edition saw handles! Oh - sorry, got distracted. I have done some veneering, and some inlay. I'm still watching... He's just trimming on the sled...
Rob I have a question about this, if I took hard wood around the perimeter of the lid, the in the inner side of the Perimeter made a dove tail across that, ten slide the top in. So length rails go first then side ones to finish the middle together. How strong of a lid would this be ?
Have you used a sprinkle of table salt on the glued surface to keep the veneer from sliding around? Works very well. I’ve used it to laminate 4 layers of 1/4” mahogany together with no slippage.
Thanks for another excellent, practical video. One small point which might be useful, regarding getting the glue into splits, such as that of the crack on one corner of the veneer: put the glue (thinned down a little, if need be) on the surface, and then apply the vacuum-cleaner nozzle underneath - works every time.
Why do you use masking tape instead of painter's tape? Is it less likely to break when stretching to pull it tight? I've avoided actual masking tape because of the residue. Where I've always differed in veneering is that I cut my veneers at about 1/8", then (via David Marks) used a drum sander to reduce them to 3/32" uniform. This was fascinating watching to see the caution on the defect and use of the foam in the cauls. I'd used cork before. Will that work to compensate for the variation in thickness? It has when doing a bent lamination in forms so far.
I have never used cork but I suspect it would be a good material to use. I was worried painters tape would not stick well when I put it under tension>>>>I will give it a try
Hi Rob...I'm new to your channel but I want you to know how much I personally appreciate your direct involvement with the Purple Heart Project....that means a great deal. Your ability to provide such clear and concise tutorials is as good as it gets. Your knowledge regarding the use and care of tools and your innate ability to create designs, structural connectors, and hinges is incredible. One thing though...as a university professor (English)....the words out and about are pronounced "OWT" and "ABOWT"...not "OOT" and "ABOOT" (just kidding you). Best wishes and stay healthy.....eh!
When gluing the crack to stabilize it you could have used a vacuum on the back side to suck all the glue through the wood and deep into the crack to really stabilize it
This is great! I have been making your style of wood hinge box getting ready for Christmas and am concerning about cupping on the lid as I make the box bigger. Couple questions, Rob, how thin the lid can you use? I used a 5" x 6" x 1/4" on one box and it sings when closing because it's rubbing a little on one side, compare to couple others that I made with 3/8 thick lid, it doesn't have that problem. Is there a way to eliminate that? Thanks
How do you feel about the trick to add some table salt to the glue to prevent the sliding when doing broad surfaces like this? Do you think it harms the quality of the glue joint?
Well there is a trick to that trick. If done right its OK but its easy to screw up. You must use very little salt, one or two sakes and thats it. If you use to much it can clump together an prevent your boards from setting together
This is a timely video for me, as I’m planning to make some boxes for Christmas gifts and have been concerned about the lids cupping/twisting. This is a great solution. The thicker edge band on the back will work well with wood hinges, too, I expect, something I’m looking to try for these gift boxes.
Is that a bespoke adjuster on the 5 1/2? It seems much better than the traditional wheel adjuster. Is it something you could get off the shelf, or a home-made improvement?
Love your videos, this was great! Do you have any advice in regards to materials for anyone who DOESN'T happen to have huge, thick rubber mats leftover from a bowling alley in their shop!?! I'm an architect by day, so I have maybe a couple products in mind and I'll ask around. Perhaps contractors might be a good resource.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm putting rubber matting on my basement floor right now. For the kind of rubber you were using, horse stall mats (mentioned above) are the cheapest source of hard rubber mats. Grain and feed stores carry them. You can find rubber flooring with a similar thickness and hardness, but it's going to be pretty expensive. Be prepared, the horse stall mats weigh about 100 lbs each.
There's no substitute for a sharp blade. Well done. 1. Is there a reason for not using mitred corners or is just a matter of "I do it that way because I do that way." Which is fine too. 2. Would flattening the veneer by tapping it down to the bench and then using the No.7 on it do the trick? Rather than having to find foam and such for the clamp-up.
On these boxes you cannot see the end grain with the lid closed so I dont go through the longer process of fitting miters. Planing such thin stock is very difficult. Too hard for my taste
Why use the hand plane to trim the veneer edge, when you have the cross cut slide? Wouldnt the first cut create a reference 90 to the blade, then just trim using that edge first and go around the board? .. just curious about why certain techniques are used. Great vid!!
Your way would work too, but its super quick just to grab the plane. By the time i went to the tables saw, pulled out my crosscut slide, lined it all up, made the cut, then back to the bench to plane away the saw marks i just made, i am done by just using the plane
The way Rob Cosman talks you can really tell he’s a teacher who has a well of knowledge that he is eager to share. It’s really nice to see a passionate teacher such as this.
He's the Bob Ross of woodworking
'Not the prettiest piece of wood..." beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder ^_^
Great book for a beginner . ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ this book really starts from the beginning, as in it explains what basic tools are and how to use them. But when it gets to the art of creating joints and how and when to use them this book really starts to teach you something. At least that was my experience.
I think having a Canadian champion of the Bassmaster's Classic is a very good statement on Canadian fishing greats.
Wow, Rob Cosman using MDF. I never would have guessed it.
👍
Rob I watch all your videos and I am never disappointed.
That is supposed to satisfy my question about veneering without having a professional press. Thank you, will treasure this!
I'm never tempted to fast-forward through any of your videos. Watching a master at work is always fascinating. Thanks for sharing.
Never veneered, have never planned on veneering, yet here I am JUST BECAUSE it's taught by one of my favorite teachers and I know from history il learn about something I do want n ty rob cosman for your time and your sounding better!
The high density foam between the wood and top/bottom pressure plates is straight up genius. Gonna keep that in my back pocket. 😎
Great teacher, no ego trip, learnt a lot. I will be back!
No
I'm a combat disabled marine vet who loves the channel. Been trying to get back into wood working after some really difficult past few years. Just wanted to say thank you for the great videos and all that you guys do there.
Hat is off to you Mike! We consider working with the Vets both an honor and a privilege.
Rob, I appreciate that you keep your blade guide down close to the wood on your band saw. I see lots of videos where the thing is all the way up and it seems so dangerous.
Your band saw absolutely massive. I didn't even know they made band saws that big.
There are old bandsaws WAY bigger than this one.
Thank you for another great learning experience. For cutting veneers on my band saw I wax the table, the bandsaw blade and the rip fence. The process seems to go smoother. When you are concerned about that glue fill repair in your veneer sticking to the foam wax the foam so the glue does not stick to it. I like it better than tape. I have not used MDF. but I will give it a try as a substrate. There were other neat bits of info buried in this video. Thank you again.
Rob,you keep encouraging me .If You make a mistake you show how to fix it.Thank you so very much
Its all about fixing your mistakes
I love it when sustainability and superior quality go hand in hand. 😎
I totally agree
Very good mechanic Rob... very good torque sequence with all the clamps!
43:25 "Hand plane is just as fast..."
Yeah, and infinitely more satisfying.
My woodworking has improved intensely since I've been watching robs videos . Great video
Thanks for watching
I got a lot out of this video, gluing and clamping especially useful right now. Thank you for the tape idea.
Thnak you for watching and commenting
Inspiring as ever keep it up Rob and Co.
Watched this whole video start to finish, it's a great one. Just the right amount of editing to keep the pace up/keep viewers interested Luther (if you're the one editing). Oh, and nice woodworking skills too, Rob :)
I think we could have trimmed a bit more at the end...maybe I could have gotten another 6 minutes...Started out at 1 hour and 17 min!!!!!!
With all the adjustments you made to tune the veneered top, it seems like making the top first might be the easiest way to build a bigger box. (Although making the top with thicker banding could make box first work.) Really enjoy the reality in your videos. Thanks.
To glue a crack in wood, I apply the shop vac hose to the back of the crack and apply glue to the front. The vacuum will pull the glue through the crack. Franklin Glue Co. says a 3/8-24 bolt thread is the best glue trowel. I use one, especially for tambour, because there is minimal squeeze out.
Great ideas, thanks
42:45 : Your tapping on the veneer to detect voids is exactly what aerospace firms do to detect voids in honeycomb sandwiched carbon fiber panels--but with fancier tools than fingers!
Great video and beautifully explained. Thanks for sharing. Now, I'm looking for an old bowling alley to purchase. Lol
again, perfect timing for me. i just got a piece of birdseye that i have been trying to decide what to do with. i knew veneering was an option but have never had it laid out like this before. thanks again for sharing what you have learned from your teachers with us.
Thank you for watching and commenting
Finally Rob is using the masking tape method, love it!
Yea I really like it. Cant beleive I waited so long
@@RobCosmanWoodworking The team you've put together is awesome and I dream of working in a shop like yours. Your craftmanship and knowledge is unparalleled, thank you so much for the years of inspiration!
I look forward to trying this technique on my next box. I have a nice piece of birdseye Maple and now know how to get the most of it. Thanks for the video Rob and team.
Sounds good. BE maple looks great veneered
Was that 1/2 Mdf? I missed that.
Very nice careful work, better than I would do by a factor of 2 or 3 at least. Kudos.
The scrub plane is a handy tool I'm finding. The jointer should have U.S.S. FLATWOOD painted on the side, maybe even paint it grey and have some model planes on the deck when not in use!
As always another great video. Thanks Rob
Another great video!!!! Looks like a Luther!!!!
Great lesson~! Now I need to put my Laguna bandsaw to the task and try this myself. Looks like it's going to be boxes for Christmas gifts this year.
Thanks Rob~!!
I have 2 old hand planes that belonged to some deceased family members. I always wondered how they were supposed to be used, and what they were for. The ones I have are in very bad shape so I doubt that they are salvageable. Thanks for the video It is nice learning something new.
Rob, Thank you so much for sharing. Would you please do a presentation on your table and clamping system?
Great video, learned a lot!
The stiff mat you used to make cauls can purchased a farm supply stores. Ask for stall matting. It is really perfect.
that's the first thing I thought of too! I have a Tractor supply just down the road....
Absolutely amazing bandsaw, wish I could find one like it.
I think old woodworking machines are always superior
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Can you recommend a good place to buy older machines of quality?
For the tape trick, fold the last 1/2" over on itself to give you a "Tail" to grab hold off. This makes it easier to pull the tape off afterwards.
With all the pressure do you think that extra layer could create a depression in the veneer?
Hi Rob, I took your advice and bought a tagi tape (the red one) just got it yesterday. I had to buy the metric one as we use millimetres over here. It looks a lot smaller than the one you are using but it's still a great tape, very accurate so thanks for that Rob
Hope it works for you. Yes they have lots of sizes
Perfect timing. I recently purchased some large pieces of black walnut with incredible grain patterns for box lids....now my lids will remain flat and I will get more lids out of each piece.
Hey rob could you make a cutting board that way if you used thicker veneers
Brilliant, absolutely brilliant.
Well said...thanks
Hockey stick grip on the clamps is my favorite part, definitely canadian😉
EXCELLENT VIDEO. I doubt that the time & effort to do this lamination could be recovered in the end price unless your boxes are extremely expensive! All the same an interesting process. If the wood lids shrink I would have thought it was due to the wood not being dry enough for the purpose. A bit longer on the shelf perhaps???
One concern; the gluing application with a trowel looks a bit hit & miss... aka Uneven. I would suggest a foam or rubber roller for spreading out & levelling the glue before the next step. 🙂
Fantastic.
Most informative
Loved this video. Surprisingly, I have all of the tools you used tonight, so I should be able to do it. Mattress Doug
Hey Doug, good to hear from you. Hope business is back and growing! Next year is getting close, keep your fingers crossed.
finish walnut with alkanet root dyed linseed oil...looks beautiful
Rob, soon it will be getting very cold where I’m at, and I’ll have to transition to my basement for the first time for winter woodworking. What shop tools should I be building now to take with me (was thinking of trying to build a better shooting board and bench hook). I’ll be down to hand tools only once it gets too cold outside.
Perhaps this would be a good topic for another video? How to prep for a tiny indoor winter wood shop? Tools, shop made tools, finishing supplies. Maybe even simple projects to continue doing during the winter to practice increasing skill, perhaps making boxes or gifts for family/friends.
Workbench #1, workbench appliance #2, stuff to keep your tool sin (tool box or cabinet) wood storage
Sure wish I had a bandsaw to cut my own veneer. Nice technique!
Great video!
After cleaning the crud off the foam rectangles to achieve even pressure, you then use masking tape to hold down the edges before clamping with the cauls/foam. Wouldn't that cause uneven pressure too? Or is it just too miniscule to worry about?
Love your videos Rob! Thanks a million!
6:05 I can't stop laughing at how far you have to reach over on that mammoth jointer!
Good technique for warped board "fix" as follows using a power planer, take a piece of 1/2 plywood just larger than the board that's warped. Place the warped board on top of the plywood, put wedges under gaps and a stopper on one end of the warped board to keep it secure so it won't slide going into your planer. screwed down stopper at least 1/2" below the lowest part of the warped board so it can pass under the surface planer. Put painters tape under any big gaps and use hot glue to fill the gap/voids and secure the plywood to the warped board. Now run the warped board through your planer until you have the top side of the warped board nice and flat. Now you can flush cut the other warped side on band saw, or run it through the planer also. As long as the board is narrow enough to fit through your planer it will work great.
What are your thoughts about using CA glue to fix that problem corner? Inside and outside. Thin CA glue so it runs into the crack.
Rob,
What was the reason for using white glue to adhere the veneers instead of rubber cement?
Thanks for another great video.
I've never used cambered cauls, but after the number of clamps needed + the 1" MDF, would that provide any easier/quicker clamping and still achieve the even pressure? I only started looking for 1" when starting the bench but haven't found it in Oklahoma. I initially thought you would not need as many clamps as you ended up using.
You mention a vacuum press. I also have never used one of those, but will you be trying it in the upcoming videos for Christmas presents?
Rob you're remarkable. I'm 65 years old and have always enjoyed woodworking. I'd like to develop my skills if it's not too late. Your thoughts?
Never thought of it before, but a bolt head on the F-Clamp handles could really help with the tightening, you could even use a torque wrench to make all the same.
Would you ever set the veneer inside the box made by the 4 edge pieces to protect the edges of the veneer? When you stick the edge pieces why don't you line one end up with the carcass so you only have to plane/trim one end? My dad used to steam his veneers when they were twisted (and to conform them to rounded surfaces like the bands on a round table), is that still an OK method to resolve veneers which aren't flat?
Thanks for the lesson Rob. I don’t have a big bandsaw but I’d like to try making my own veneer. Have you ever tried hand cutting veneer? I’m guessing that’s how it was done pre-power tools.
I can also see why a vacuum press would be a great idea if you were doing this regularly though.
I second this question. I don't have a band saw that large either. How would you do this in any other way?
Hey Rob,
Nice outcome.
In BC, we have aguy that recycles old car tires and makes mudflaps and pick-up box liners. It is quite dense but it is pliable and does conform to surfaces. I was wondering if that would be suitable as a cushion for your irregular glue-ups. let me know if you need contact info should you want to explore that option.
Have you tried painter’s tape instead of maskling tape? If so, did painter’s tape do the job?
I was just wondering if you have ever tried vacuum bagging instead of the clamps? If so what did or didn't you like about it? Thanks for your time. I really like your videos. RCW
I have a lot in the past. Works great however I never had heavy material so I would be constantly patching holes.
I made a lid out of solid book matched spalted beech- looked great for about 1 month- then turned into a potato chip as soon as summer hit..... Will try this method next time maybe!
As you were preparing to saw the first sheet of veneer I was wondering if it would have been easier to glue the walnut to the MDF before slicing the veneer. After seeing the whole process I guess not. I know that is is required to veneer both sides of lumber and plywood. But is it necessary to do both sides of MDF? I'm thinking of an application where the inside of the box would be covered with flocking. As to your method of teaching, it is outstanding. You don't rush through steps which makes it very easy to comprehend everything. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and please continue to stay healthy.
Yep same principle applies. Do to both sides so you have an equal amount of moisture to prevent cupping. Of course MDF is much less prone to warping but I still follow the general rule.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Glen - the flocking doesn't put the same tension (albeit light) as the veneer. But a secondary wood saves the good stock for more boxes and would not seem to add much in thickness.
My question for Rob - Does the flocking change how the lid would fit if it is also flocked? How would you compensate if so, using the wood hinge? (I still need to watch any existing and the new ones coming out) Would you just use tape around the inside border to keep the flocking back?
I liked the step by step walk through. I'd have liked to see a splitter on that table saw, though.
Your use of a veneers ties into a question that I've been meaning to ask you. I haven't seen you use a surface or drum sander before and wonder if prepping veneers would be a good use for one.
It’s actually something we’ve been debating in the shop. Would be nice for thicknessing small pieces...
I saw the prep of some Limited Edition saw handles! Oh - sorry, got distracted. I have done some veneering, and some inlay. I'm still watching... He's just trimming on the sled...
Would you recommend box made of veneered MDF suitable for a humidor?
Just found yr channel, have subscribed & liked.. Stay safe everyone 😷 Gazza
Rob I have a question about this, if I took hard wood around the perimeter of the lid, the in the inner side of the Perimeter made a dove tail across that, ten slide the top in. So length rails go first then side ones to finish the middle together.
How strong of a lid would this be ?
Hi Rob: Would this be a good use for a vacuum press?
Same here. What thickness though is ideal for the veneer?
Rob at the 44 min mark, why use the hand plane vs your 5.5? More control?
Thank you
You're welcome
Have you used a sprinkle of table salt on the glued surface to keep the veneer from sliding around? Works very well. I’ve used it to laminate 4 layers of 1/4” mahogany together with no slippage.
Yes i have. I dont really like it as you can easily use too much salt and get a clump. Happened to me once and i never used salt again
Thanks for another excellent, practical video.
One small point which might be useful, regarding getting the glue into splits, such as that of the crack on one corner of the veneer: put the glue (thinned down a little, if need be) on the surface, and then apply the vacuum-cleaner nozzle underneath - works every time.
Why do you use masking tape instead of painter's tape? Is it less likely to break when stretching to pull it tight? I've avoided actual masking tape because of the residue. Where I've always differed in veneering is that I cut my veneers at about 1/8", then (via David Marks) used a drum sander to reduce them to 3/32" uniform. This was fascinating watching to see the caution on the defect and use of the foam in the cauls. I'd used cork before. Will that work to compensate for the variation in thickness? It has when doing a bent lamination in forms so far.
I have never used cork but I suspect it would be a good material to use. I was worried painters tape would not stick well when I put it under tension>>>>I will give it a try
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I've used cork to good success.
Hi Rob...I'm new to your channel but I want you to know how much I personally appreciate your direct involvement with the Purple Heart Project....that means a great deal. Your ability to provide such clear and concise tutorials is as good as it gets. Your knowledge regarding the use and care of tools and your innate ability to create designs, structural connectors, and hinges is incredible. One thing though...as a university professor (English)....the words out and about are pronounced "OWT" and "ABOWT"...not "OOT" and "ABOOT" (just kidding you). Best wishes and stay healthy.....eh!
When gluing the crack to stabilize it you could have used a vacuum on the back side to suck all the glue through the wood and deep into the crack to really stabilize it
This is great! I have been making your style of wood hinge box getting ready for Christmas and am concerning about cupping on the lid as I make the box bigger. Couple questions, Rob, how thin the lid can you use? I used a 5" x 6" x 1/4" on one box and it sings when closing because it's rubbing a little on one side, compare to couple others that I made with 3/8 thick lid, it doesn't have that problem. Is there a way to eliminate that? Thanks
A book binders press would be ideal for veneering the lids.
That was so elongated to the point of COMA.
Have you ever thought of mitres for your edge pieces?
I could but the way I am doing it is faster and I think I like it better for some strange reason
You mentioned the end grain on the ends of the lid .Could you have mitered the ends to conceal that?
How do you feel about the trick to add some table salt to the glue to prevent the sliding when doing broad surfaces like this? Do you think it harms the quality of the glue joint?
Well there is a trick to that trick. If done right its OK but its easy to screw up. You must use very little salt, one or two sakes and thats it. If you use to much it can clump together an prevent your boards from setting together
This is a timely video for me, as I’m planning to make some boxes for Christmas gifts and have been concerned about the lids cupping/twisting. This is a great solution. The thicker edge band on the back will work well with wood hinges, too, I expect, something I’m looking to try for these gift boxes.
James we will be releasing a lot of box making videos starting the end of September for Christmas box making ideas.
RobCosman.com that is outstanding!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking OOOOOH Yaa! Bring it on!
Is that a bespoke adjuster on the 5 1/2? It seems much better than the traditional wheel adjuster. Is it something you could get off the shelf, or a home-made improvement?
robcosman.com/collections/planes/products/rob-cosman-plane-adjustar?variant=32422529990722
Better yet, WE put it on the shelf.
Hey Rob, I use tape like you are doing a lot. Buy a table top dispenser for your masking tape! Much easier, quicker, one handed operation.
Shooting board looks like a good way to skin a 1/16 off a knuckle
Would salt have prevented the veneer from moving while glueing up?
Love your videos, this was great! Do you have any advice in regards to materials for anyone who DOESN'T happen to have huge, thick rubber mats leftover from a bowling alley in their shop!?! I'm an architect by day, so I have maybe a couple products in mind and I'll ask around. Perhaps contractors might be a good resource.
Yes, options are: piece of hard foam mat you can easily get at any box store, a cork sheet, closed cell backpacking sleep mat, yoga bat, etc.....
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'm putting rubber matting on my basement floor right now.
For the kind of rubber you were using, horse stall mats (mentioned above) are the cheapest source of hard rubber mats. Grain and feed stores carry them. You can find rubber flooring with a similar thickness and hardness, but it's going to be pretty expensive. Be prepared, the horse stall mats weigh about 100 lbs each.
There's no substitute for a sharp blade. Well done.
1. Is there a reason for not using mitred corners or is just a matter of "I do it that way because I do that way." Which is fine too.
2. Would flattening the veneer by tapping it down to the bench and then using the No.7 on it do the trick? Rather than having to find foam and such for the clamp-up.
On these boxes you cannot see the end grain with the lid closed so I dont go through the longer process of fitting miters. Planing such thin stock is very difficult. Too hard for my taste
Great video , thanks . Some people use contact cement for veneering, does it make any difference ?
I prefer wood glue. It has a much stronger bond
Why use the hand plane to trim the veneer edge, when you have the cross cut slide? Wouldnt the first cut create a reference 90 to the blade, then just trim using that edge first and go around the board? .. just curious about why certain techniques are used. Great vid!!
Your way would work too, but its super quick just to grab the plane. By the time i went to the tables saw, pulled out my crosscut slide, lined it all up, made the cut, then back to the bench to plane away the saw marks i just made, i am done by just using the plane
12:39 what should we do?? Please explain :)
Is it possible to make a veneer using only hand tools?