SMOOTHING AN UNEVEN CONCRETE FLOOR - Ready for Epoxy
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- Опубліковано 29 чер 2024
- While I could have left the concrete as it was I knew I would never be happy with the finish, especially with the epoxy floor going down next week. Flooring is one thing that you only really have one shot at, as before long this workshop is going to fill up pretty quick!
TOOLS USED
Spiked Roller - amzn.to/3mvNLeC
Self Level Laser - amzn.to/3sTRB3r
9” Grinding Wheel - amzn.to/39QqM8R
5” Version - amzn.to/2Q8OF4j
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#SELFLEVLLING #CONCRETEFLOOR #FLOORGRINDING - Навчання та стиль
Watching a perfectionists at work, I can never image someone taking so much care if you had paid a contractor to build it for you.
I'm a floor layer and I've never in over 20 years seen anyone latex like this with that trowel 👍😂
When you open the door on the finished workshop, you won't be thinking about a couple of mm deviation on the floor. Great work.
You think so? Hmmm . . .
It’s less the looks and more to do with rolling cabinets and tools around on castors and having to adjust heights all the time. I think it’s probably close enough now though. 👍
"Dont let the good be the enemy of the perfect" give yourself a break man, looks great!
My garage floor was 8cm out. All it took to sort out were 2 tons of leveling compound, 64 laser leveled masonry screws spaced 80 cm apart and an sds drill which died in the process :)
Keep up the good work!
Only just seen this vlog, 38 years ago we had to lay a 250mm concrete slab that was 50mx15m and had to be level within 1mm, one go, and achieved. On the same job steel column holding down bolts had to be cast within 1mm in each axis, again achieved. Back then I wish we had to tools of today. A great effort and attention to detail, you will get out of this project what you put in, a great workshop. I can't believe what your full time job is. As someone who has been in design and construction for over 50 years, I'm impressed.
Great job Tim, once the epoxy is down it will take it quite literally to another level 😎👍✅
I love your pragmatic eye for detail...you spend the time and energy on what matters to you, and save the money where you can. Really good details - thanks!
I did a self leveling job on my garage and the spiked roller was my best friend. I also got some spiked sandals to walk over the poured areas while rollering the floor. Both of these items are now sat in a box in the garage and will probably never be used again but they were worth it. Floor turned out great and more importantly the new electric roller doors sit perfectly flush.
By the way, I also had an angle grinder nut completely seize on me one time. In the end I clamped the spindle lock which freed both hands to tap the nut loose. It worked.
Tim, ever the perfectionist, but your right to do right it will last forever 👏🏼
Massive respect for doing that (any everything else!) on your own 🤯👍
Great job Tim, fair play to you.... home stretch 👏🏻👏🏻
This is the internet, your not your worst critic, there are plenty of nasty people out there. Love the videos.
Great job. I have a lounge floor to do that I keep putting off.....since the 1st lockdown! I have the spiked roller, but ordered the laser level through the affiliate link! 👍
Great video Tim. I do a lot of self levelling when doing empty council properties at work. Floors always need attention and yes it’s hard work on your own. It’s usually 2 of us. One mixing and doing the backward and forward and me on the trowel. Spiked rollers are good for big areas but not essential. We use the mapei floor levelling 2 part bag and bottle. Really good flow to it but self levelling floors in the summer can be a pain as it dries so damn fast. Atleast we don’t have that problem at the moment with snow here in April haha! That diamond disk grinder looks the business! Don’t tempt me too much haha! All the best take care! Marc 👍
Kinda reminds me of that Father Ted ep where Ted's trying to iron out the little dent in the car. "It's no use Ted, you'll never get it absolutely right"
To get the disc off the 9" grinder use a punch or cold chisel on the locking nut on one of the pin holes that the wrench fits in. Few taps with a lump hammer and It will shock the nut loose. Don't push the motor lock/break in or it may shear the pin off.
Turned 30 today, dad got me a Restoration Couple mug and shirt, plus you guys posted this video! Great day! And great job on that floor Tim!
Amazing! Happy Birthday. 🎉
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks 😁
Fair play, nice job. Mixing & pouring on your own is a pain at the best of times. I felt bad for you tackling that with a 5" sander 😟
Brilliant.
I levelled the ground floor of our house a year or so ago, I used a similar spiked roller and it worked well. Also used spiked shoe plates (intended to spike lawns) that also helped to enable the complete floor to be accessed once poured.
You definitely are your own worst critic! Seriously Tim you should be very proud of what you’ve achieved and your ATD is admirable!
I’d say it’s worth spending the time getting the floor flat now, my commercially rented workshop’s is all over the place, so much so that I can’t build off it and have to put a sheet of 18mm material down on the floor as a base to build off, far from ideal!
The spiked roller also helps with the trowel ridges as long as the overall depth is adequate.
Great determination and a great result, I wasn't that fussy on my garage floor. I used one of those amazon concrete discs too alas the 115mm one, soon killed my old angle grinder so had to buy a new one, shame :-) looking forward to the epoxy, make sure you get enough as they always seem to come up short on coverage. Are you having chips in it?
The spike roller also helps blend the different screed pours from different buckets 👍🏼 (saving the grinding time trying to blend )
Yeah definitely would have helped! Ah well always next time.
I’ve used a spiked roller, need to be careful not to use it as the compound sets, or it leaves its own dimples… what compound did you go for?
Just a thought Tim, is that angle grinder a left-hand thread?
Absolutely definitely..haha.
exactly this!
Well I’ve got to say it looks good from the video.
Tim, not sure if your going to be pouring any more concrete slabs in the future. But if you are, you should consider using a self compacting concrete. Yes its a bit more expensive, but the amount of it labour it saves when laying and the finish you get is worth it. You wont need a straight edge or level, just a dapple bar, some tripods and a laser. If i was laying a slab similar in size to your workshop, i reckon i would have it laid in about 20 mins once the gear is in and it would be a perfect level finish.
Try soaking the grinder in plus gas its grest penetrant for seized metal. Great video again.
Hi Tim, looks great. Hammer & punch on the angle grinder, shock it & should come undone
The OCD is real😂 gonna be a beautiful workshop, there are floors in my house that are 40mm off over 2.5m🤷😂
U have to use spikeroller straight after flattening otherwise it drags and leaves lumps
Quick and brief with roller before it goes like jelly
Grand job mate
I have had to cut a couple of the nuts off my 9 inch grinder, just cut near the threads to weaken it so it will undo. Workshop is looking great
Really appreciate your videos. About to do my garage floor. Do you mind me asking what self levelling compound you used?
I think you have just built a modern Viking Longhouse? Good job!
I know how it is with doing everything yourself. That's because I lack a dude I can call who thinks this kind of work is fun so I don't have to feel bad about making him work.
People like us just don't live close enough to one another :D.
Few thoughts.. yes those cheap grinding disks are good value. Spike roller only really works if the compound is a decent thickness on the floor, if it’s a real shallow pour it don’t do much. Get a quick nut for the grinder for £10 or so.
TIDY! 👌
Great attention to detail, as always! I’m afraid I’m a little sceptical about using self-leveller as a final floor covering though. I know the epoxy resin is over the top but I still doubt the impact resistance, especially in a work shop environment. I only ever use self-leveller under a more resilient finish, such as tile. Perhaps I have something to learn!
It was my main concern too but the benefits of a flat floor outweighed the risk especially as this is a wood workshop. The metal working area I in the bottom shed which is a polished concrete slab. This is a fibre reinforced screed which is more of an industrial type as that what was recommended. It had to be over 25Nm I think. Anyway, we will see how it works out, otherwise I’ll have carpet! 😀
NOOICE!
Hi Tim,I am just about to sort out the lounge floor which has 20mm hollows. Which compound did you get? Cheers Chris
Hey its always hard to lower your standards when working on your own projects, to the detriment of your mind and time. Alas you got it done, was wondering if you can epoxy those surrounding bricks under the timber frame or will you paint? 🤔
Looks brilliant well done. I do feel for future you when you accidentally drop something heavy on that master piece of a floor 🤪
Exactly
That what I was thinking when I did my garage.
Screed or even epoxy can easily chip off .
Especially after your sealer on the wet concrete + your grinding and washing off the dust ,no sunmer yet and I bet you didn't dry it out properly before screed...
After all that money and labour you will put in that floor...
What I did with my floor -- grind it with exactly the same disc and sealed it with drivesay concrete sealer Job done.
And now I don't care ..if something chip off(and it will) you can just touch it up with sealer .
Watching to much of the youtube made you go that mad with that floor .
It just the floor )
I like your idea with kingspan panels tho.
I've build the grill house(grillkota) in my garden and made the concrete floor the same way as un my garage just added decorative 5-10mm gravel on the top so when grined you can see the polished concrete,nice .
And that sealer on the top .
Done
the primer prevents most of the air bubbles
Made same mistakes as you with the self leveling compound. Mistake nr.1: Not using primer. Nr.2: Spike roller is must. Nr.3: Pour all at once. Nr.4. Prepare buckets & bags open so you mix them all at the same time. If you respect all those rules you achieve a glass-like finish.
Yes exactly especially the spike roller it take the bubbles out and help it to sit better 👏🏼👏🏼
Floor grinders cost an absolute fortune to hire.
I was thinking about wearcote for my garage but chipping off with hammer drop made.me.go with polished concrete and concrete sealer on the top .
Cheaaap))
You see you said you were having one of those days. I disagree I would have needed the Ryobi blower which you left on the far corner while you pouring. Then I would have been climbing around the edge to get it and fallen on the wet floor. 😁
I wish my workshop floor was even close to being that flat. Mine is 30mm over two meters in places. Everything has to be on adjustable feet 😬
The hardware store dude laughed at me when I said I love the Bosch angle grinder locking nuts because they're easier to undo. Well, I love the Bosch angle-grinder locking nuts because they're easier to undo :D.
Bu the tip about a grinder with variable speed is very interesting... I had to switch to a 125mm diamond disk for my walls because the large machine just bit into it and one little mistake and you gouged the thing like nobody's business...
By the way, I think waiting for the pin roller would have been the better idea... I think that would have helped agitating the leveling compound too and maybe would have helped making it level. But don't take this as criticism... I probably would couldn't have waited either...
Yeah, kicked myself after the first bucket was poured as I knew I should have waited but I tend to set deadlines for myself and im already way over schedule!
Hi Tim I just wanted to ask you how you fixed the sub timber to the footings parameters we're these fixed in with resin bolts ? And what did you use as your bearing wall, are those concrete blocks on a cement mortar
What kind of self leveling did you use ?
Perfection would require an infinite amount of time.
Hi can you tell me what are the dimensions of the workshop and when finished could you give us a rough estimate on cost including for full installation with all ground work and would you consider building one for me.
Hi mate, really liked the video, just had a few questions as I'm currently doing the same, I've used self leveling on the floor, now I need to remove the laitance before I put down the epoxy, was your grinding/sanding aimed at removing this later prior to the epoxy or was it Purley to flatten it further?
Just to flatten really. The epoxy finishes do best on certain self levelling products but primer went down first anyway.
Really admire your resolve and creative approach to getting things done.
A quick question if I may that sort of combines elements of this and your floating floor. I have a gym project built project with a concrete base and intend to install a DPM, 50MM PIR, 18mm T&G Chipboard and 20mm rubber tiles. Like yours, the slab is not perfect with some high and low spots, do you think that the PIR will absorb some of this once combined with the considerable weight of the chipboard, rubber tiles and gym equipment or should I try to get it as level as possible before I start? I think I know the answer but no harm is hoping :-)
No, you are really better off starting level. Any low spots will always bounce a little with floating floor even when all the weight is on and the joins don’t hold up well. Still notice it in our kitchen when you walk in a certain spot. A simple way is to screed out kiln dried sand before dpm, or use self levelling if needed.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thank you very much, I will definitely follow your advice.
Why not PVA as a sealer ?
Hi, does the leveller fully bond with the concrete or does it form a ‘laminate’ over the floor? If it does form at laminate, can it crack or delaminates?
if you prepare the floor correctly before pouring it will bond to it
What blade did you use on that?
Did you consider using self compacting concrete? Would have saved you tonnes of time and effort and gives you almost a perfect finish when you tamp it
I could have just trowelled it smooth from the original pour if I knew what I was doing 4 years back. 😂 This was certainly a stage that shouldn’t have been needed. 👍
Tim, maybe you or someone here can help. I'm building a pergola attached to a garage made of blockwork with unpainted render over it. I need to attach a ledger board to this garage but I don't know how to go about it and I can't find an example of how it should be done in this situation. I think I can't put the ledger straight onto the rendered wall or water will be trapped between the two causing rot. I don't even know if I should remove the render to attach straight onto the blockwork. I know there are spacers for this sort of thing to keep the ledger board off the surface, but do I drill through the render so the spacer is on contact with blockwork? Do I maybe put flashing tape on the wall facing side of the ledger board or some other kind of barrier?
The pergola will be exposed for some time before a roof is added maybe within the year.
The top of the garage wall is also a 2x4 wall plate for the corrugated garage roof, could some of the ledger fixings be drilled into this wall plate or would it have to sit lower than the top of the wall so it's touching blockwork and not the wall plate? The ledger board(s) will be 2x8 and 6m long.
I have the rest of the plans drawn up to every detail but this is something I can't find reliable info on, the closest I can find is deck building regulations but they deal with the bottom of walls not the top row.
As per the fixings, some people say concrete screws are fine, others say to drill the whole way through the blocks and use bolts and others say plugs with screws is the way to go.
Any help would be appreciated even a link to an example or helpful info. Thanks
Depends on how heavy the beams are but usually ledger bolted to blockwork using sleeve anchor type fixings or epoxy anchors. Thunderbolts might be ok to if blocks sound. You could put a spacer behind but would loose some of the strength. Either just leave it and use well treated wood or perhaps a flashing above the finished structure to cast any rain away from the wall.
@@TheRestorationCouple Thanks Tim, it seems like I have nearly endless possibilities. I might be being too picky for what is a garage wall anyway and treated wood. We did have a wooden fence battened on to a block wall and some of those battens have crumbled into dust in about 12 years which has me worried.
wait ,,, did you just grind down 25mm .. im new to this but that seems crazy
I’d suggest just bringing down the worst spots, and self leveller the rest.
Shame you didn't get it right the first time but you did do a few years back did you not, tbh I don't mind finishing concrete when ever I do it
Hi Tim where did you get the levelling tool from I normally use a trowel but it leaves a lot of marks on the cement leveller.
It’s just a flat spatula that I had from doing the rendering. Worked well though.
@@TheRestorationCouple thanks
Grinding concrete without eye protection?
If you required the flatness and level then this must be factored in when laying the slab because adding a weak slurry as a base to the epoxy finish may prove to be misplaced especially if you are setting heavy or vibrating machinery on the surface. Your excuse that you didn't have a 'laser' level is not really valid because one of the most accurate building levels is the water level i.e. a length of pipe filled up to a point with water. The water level at both ends of the open hose/pipe are identical no matter where they are. I know commercial suspended ceiling contractors who use a water level in preference to a laser as it is accurate, can bend around the corners of rooms and through doorways and above all are very cheap! A power floated concrete slab with the proprietary sealer is more than adequate as a finished workshop floor - most industrial floors are finished this way.
One of the things that I now insist on is to use a steel angle at the threshold as the top of the shutter. The angle can be set very accurately with one flat uppermost that will be set under the door. This provides an accurate threshold for any door but particularly the sectional overhead commercial style doors that is very durable. Externally, the down leg of the angle can be exposed by say about 25mm to form a water stop for driven rain, whilst still allowing a ramped access up to floor level.
I suspect you have done this before, but being lazy (!) can I ask what vac you used to suck up all the dust and what little battery powered blower you use? I’m about to try some lime tuck highlight pointing and getting the old stuff out, with ash mortar behind is going to be messy!
When you stand back to look at the finished surface and the the dog runs in to see whats going on just look at it as a way to remember the dog long after its been buried in the garden. Or you could let the kids loose and call it feature art. I had various memory joggers installed in floors and paths over the years. The finish you have there is way above that which most contractors would call done.
How's your knees.
Who's here in 2024 ? .... 😁
When you said 25mm difference and saw your tool I though, you’re on a hiding to nothing, that’ll take years and lots of discs.
Валик не поможет только маяки или метки висоты
Googly eyes make everything better
Great work but I think your setting your tolerances and expectations far to high for this content I am sure in the context of it's use, all your concerns will disappear! Well done keep up the good work!✊🇬🇧
Worth getting it right on a 'test' building like this before a bigger project inside a house. 😀
Toooooooo many piggin adverts. Good video though. I used a small orbital sander to do my floor and it worked a treat
Use kneepads. When you are older you'll be very happy you did.
2mm out.?? However can you sleep at night.. it must be terrible living with OCD.?? 🙄🙄😉
Ps when I laid my concrete base down for my 10m x 6m base, it looked great.. Until I woke up the next morning to find apples from next doors tree embedded in it.. It adds character, that's my reasoning anyway lol. 🤣
2mm is fine, just the dips at the side which will cause problems. With all the units and tools on castors, the aim is to be able to move things around quite a bit. A floor with dips and low spots will just mean im constantly adjusting heights and rocking tables.
OK I'm going to be Mr Stupid, if it ends up not being level why is it called "self leveling" ?
it does level if you use enough of it, but its quite expensive, it does a good job of smoothing the floor if you dont want it perfectly level though
Using a spiked roller brings the self leveling properties up massively. Also, this is a two person task - one mixing, one spreading. Timing is critical.
First
I love your videos, but you either have OCD or waaaay too much time on your hands.
Great work mate, keep going......for our sakes 👍
Hello on the whole I like your videos they're informative and relatively fun to watch but I'm having a bit of a nightmare watching you put down screed on a concrete floor without mentioning the dangers of acid Burns caused by concrete left on trousers could you please put up a disclaimer about using some sort of knee or leg protection to prevent acid Burns as I see you're not wearing any at all