Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣 If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking. It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry. I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more. I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
You say "that could be the finished floor". Really?! It can be the finished floor? I have exactly this scenario. A center drain in the basement was relocated during a complete pipe replacement. The floor still has that dip in the center and lots of rough spots, irregularities and seams from different concrete pours. It's over a hundred years old, had tiles and carpet etc, before. I need to level the floor as well as make it one homogenous surface. This drainpipe excavation was an unplanned necessity and I don't have the budget to lay a floor. So this product is a self leveler and actually provides a durable , smooth finished surface? And It's ok if we paint or epoxy afterwards?
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said. The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper. I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate. Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm. Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
If you are fixing a floor like that but it's going to be used for working on cars with heavy jacks rolling over it all the time, will it eventually start to separate from the existing floor? I tried that on my garage floor and eventually it lifted. The floor seems to produce this white powder that almost seems to grow from the pits and spalded areas. I have no idea what it's from. I try to wash it out but it always comes back. Maybe that's part of my problem.
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
You have one thing kind of backwards. If you have a highly porous floor you use the 50/50 and then follow it up with 100% primer. But if you have a more or less non porous floor, you just go with the straight 100% and skip the 50/50 solution. Look up the manufacturer's recommendations and you'll see that this is correct this is correct. I'm gonna guess, given your general knowledge, that this was just a misstatement on your part.
@@MikeDayConcrete I would suggest reading the specification materials.. We both know the the manufacturers cycle through reps way faster than they should.
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone. You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out Can’t wait for the next one!
About to put self-leveling down in my kitchen - a much smaller space than this, but I'm still kinda nervous about it! With this install did you have to sand the surface at all to lose any trowel / join marks? I've seen SLC done a few times and where the pours join they never seem to merge seamlessly even once fully set.
@@MikeDayConcrete I'm in the UK so used Screwfix's own. Did another room with the same stuff and it went a lot better. Feel a lot happier about it now...not sure I could get a floor level but could probably get one flat, with even coverage across it. Trying to corral the stuff into different areas in different amounts to get it both flat and level would probably be pushing it tho... I think I'd be tempted to use some kind of flat edge with screwheads in the floor for that. (Or even separate the floor into dammed-off areas and do them individually - I'm only DIY so the time is secondary to getting a good result with my limited skills).
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
I have a garage floor that was not put in correct and snow melts pools in one corner of the garage. so going in and out of the house you step in a puddle water. We have been told we will have to take out the floor and repouring the floor. its only 10 years old
Hello Mike, had a question. I'm looking at resurfacing my garage floor and wanted to know if this Sakrete product would hold up to having a car parked on it? Also, could you epoxy or paint this floor right after it has cured or would you still need to grind or etch it before applying those coatings? Thanks and enjoy your videos!
It would hold up in a garage, yes. If I were to epoxy over it, I would lightly grind it but I grind everything we epoxy over. It is porous already but I wouldn't chance it, always grind if you epoxy. I don't like just etching and don't recommend it.
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
I have a serious question, I'm building 2 post n beams for extra support for my house, I've poured my concrete last night inside my basement, how long do I have to wait untill I can install my post n beams.
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
I took a drink of beer every time he said level. Ten minutes in and I'm done.
Do you want alcohol poisoning? Because that's how you get alcohol poisoning.
Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
I ran out of beer.
🤣🤣
My friend died trying to also drink during the 'stampable overlays'
Awesome video! I am looking to do this a finished floor in my studio space. What sealer do you recommend for finishing of this overlay? Thanks!
Hello Mike you can do mettalic epoxy over this?
I was told self leveling was not strong enough to use for the finished floor. Wish it was.
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
Great tip!
Rule of thumb in self leveling is primer is a must
Okay, how do you fix if primer wasn't used before the pour?
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣
If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking.
It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry.
I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more.
I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
You say "that could be the finished floor". Really?! It can be the finished floor? I have exactly this scenario. A center drain in the basement was relocated during a complete pipe replacement. The floor still has that dip in the center and lots of rough spots, irregularities and seams from different concrete pours. It's over a hundred years old, had tiles and carpet etc, before. I need to level the floor as well as make it one homogenous surface. This drainpipe excavation was an unplanned necessity and I don't have the budget to lay a floor. So this product is a self leveler and actually provides a durable , smooth finished surface? And It's ok if we paint or epoxy afterwards?
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
Awesome, thank you for the comment!
Must mix according to manufacturer, water to powder ratio needs to be accurate
No mention of the surface destroying bubbles that I experienced. Awful!
@@matoko123 was a primer required and did you use it?
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said.
The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper.
I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate.
Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm.
Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
Wow, very tedious, but you guys just knock ‘em out, you guys might just be the very best,looking forward to the next vid.
Thank you Mike!
Too bad you couldn't vibrate the house, then it would be really level!
Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
If you are fixing a floor like that but it's going to be used for working on cars with heavy jacks rolling over it all the time, will it eventually start to separate from the existing floor? I tried that on my garage floor and eventually it lifted. The floor seems to produce this white powder that almost seems to grow from the pits and spalded areas. I have no idea what it's from. I try to wash it out but it always comes back. Maybe that's part of my problem.
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
It might work, you saw how bad this floor was.
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
Paint a tile PVA on it first.
Did you end up going over tile?
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
It's always possible. Being this old and now a heated space I think this one will be good.
You have one thing kind of backwards. If you have a highly porous floor you use the 50/50 and then follow it up with 100% primer. But if you have a more or less non porous floor, you just go with the straight 100% and skip the 50/50 solution. Look up the manufacturer's recommendations and you'll see that this is correct this is correct. I'm gonna guess, given your general knowledge, that this was just a misstatement on your part.
I actually called the Sakrete "Pro" and he recommended I do it this way.
@@MikeDayConcrete I would suggest reading the specification materials.. We both know the the manufacturers cycle through reps way faster than they should.
Can your drive on it without damaging? Would like to smooth out my garage floor.
You’re a Master concrete specialist!!! Fantastic procedure. I will definitely follow your instructions. Thanks!
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone.
You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
@@MikeDayConcrete hanks so much! I've been wanting to fix it up but not wanting to make a mess! Have a great day!
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
Thanks, that's awesome!
Quickrete has a self leveler now that comes in a 5 gal drywall bucket pretty handy
That is handy! Thanks
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
You did remove the cabinets from the area, didn't you?
Great video. How do you maintain proper flow to the drain?
Great videos, such detail, I almost feel like I could do this... almost.
I think just about anyone could do this.
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
That material works great, how thick of a layer can this be installed?.
This will go up to 1" neat, you can go thicker if you add pea-stone to the mix.
Great video super helpful!
How many sqft was the area and how many bags did you use?
I'm considering doing around 800sqft of my basement.
This was 480 sf. About 40 bags. They'll do about 50 sf at 1/8" thick.
With the slop of the floor how did you calculate for your material/number of bags?
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
You're right on George!
"Self leveler self levels itself" is the best quote from this video :)
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
Great job as always and Hope you had a nice Thanksgiving!
I did! And thank you!
Your guys tipping out bags really should be wearing masks mate
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out
Can’t wait for the next one!
Thanks for the tip!
The home owner did not take out the counters?
Would like to have seen you laser after the first coat to see how close you can get it to level. Good video, thanks.
what do you charge for something like this? the prep, the levelor and the stamped colored overlay?
Excellent video. thank you for all the great content here !! Anyone looking to self level a floor should watch this.
I appreciate that!
How do you prevent little air bubbles from forming after the self-leveler dries. I got a ton of them in my project... 😔
Excellent video. Much thanks!
About to put self-leveling down in my kitchen - a much smaller space than this, but I'm still kinda nervous about it!
With this install did you have to sand the surface at all to lose any trowel / join marks? I've seen SLC done a few times and where the pours join they never seem to merge seamlessly even once fully set.
All the batches were seamless, couldn't tell one from the other. NO sanding afterwards at all.
@@MikeDayConcrete good job! Just done mine this afternoon, had to trowel it flat! 😂
What product did you use?
@@MikeDayConcrete I'm in the UK so used Screwfix's own. Did another room with the same stuff and it went a lot better. Feel a lot happier about it now...not sure I could get a floor level but could probably get one flat, with even coverage across it. Trying to corral the stuff into different areas in different amounts to get it both flat and level would probably be pushing it tho... I think I'd be tempted to use some kind of flat edge with screwheads in the floor for that. (Or even separate the floor into dammed-off areas and do them individually - I'm only DIY so the time is secondary to getting a good result with my limited skills).
Move fast! Get the second batch down before the first starts to go off.
Why are you starting on the outside edge instead of the center where the leveler will be thickest?
We're working from one end to the other keeping a wet edge.
Would not the batch that you pour first continue to migrate towards the lowest part of the floor which would cause it to not be level?
Was wondering the same thing! Could a good result be achieved by working in a circular pattern, center/deepest to thinnest to maintain your wet edge?
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
Mike what would you recommend (product) for an outdoor forklift pad that is heavily spalled ?
Can this product be left without anything over it? like a patio ? (outdoors)
How do you like your Bosch vacuum? That's the 300 CFM model right?
Have you ever used a Pulse Bac Pro311 by chance to compare it to?
We like the Bosch. I haven't compared it to others. I'd be willing to if someone sent me one.
Do you need to keep it wet to let it cure? 👍🙂
No, not indoors like this.
I don't see a link to the mixer or the shoes in the description.
How thick can the self leveler be ?
I have a garage floor that was not put in correct and snow melts pools in one corner of the garage. so going in and out of the house you step in a puddle water. We have been told we will have to take out the floor and repouring the floor. its only 10 years old
It can be fixed by someone that knows how and what products to use.
Hello Mike, had a question. I'm looking at resurfacing my garage floor and wanted to know if this Sakrete product would hold up to having a car parked on it? Also, could you epoxy or paint this floor right after it has cured or would you still need to grind or etch it before applying those coatings? Thanks and enjoy your videos!
It would hold up in a garage, yes. If I were to epoxy over it, I would lightly grind it but I grind everything we epoxy over. It is porous already but I wouldn't chance it, always grind if you epoxy. I don't like just etching and don't recommend it.
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
You’re the best in the business! I wish you worked in my area.
Great video! Thank you for sharing this with us.
You bet!
I have a serious question, I'm building 2 post n beams for extra support for my house, I've poured my concrete last night inside my basement, how long do I have to wait untill I can install my post n beams.
I'd wait at least a week.
Can this be put on top of old tiles or on top of old terrazzo that had glue and carpet on top before?
Do you seal around the edges of the walls and if so, what do you use?
Will this type of overlay work for a residential garage floor with vehicle parking ?
This one from Sakrete would work for a garage, yes.
great job Mike. What primer did you use for the concrete?
I love watching your videos very helpful,you guys do top notch work.
I appreciate that Jason!
Is,this material ok for drive able outdoor surfaces?
What are your thoughts on using this to smooth out an area with a lot of exposed aggregate making it painful to walk on?
It could be used for that.
Could do this if it was still a garage, or would the weight of vehicles be a
problem?
Very nice job. Look forward to the stamp finish.
Thanks Ron, it'll be out Friday.
Thanks for another great video Mike. I have a job just like this coming up and sure appreciate the walk-through on the process.
I'd recommend using the Sakrete self leveler. Let me know if you can't find any.
Is there a color option for it to cure like regular gray concrete or is there only white?
Wow!
You could put a dye in it and make it look like marble..
That's nice product..
Awesome product!
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
This is great! How would you do a floor that is up to 3" out of level?
do you have to grind the living crap out of it first and scratch the floor it's trying to adhere to???
Did you use a primer/bonding coat?
It looks good, I feel like you need to be patience and let the mix do its job floor looks good after. Great job !! Good video. Take care thanks 😊
Yes! Thank you!
how many bags of product were used for that floor ?
Looks great Mike! I'm gonna check out that mixer, mine is about shot....
The mixer is awesome. Darin loves it.
I need my slab leveled, no one seems to know how to do this. Who does this type of work?
It depends where you are. Search some of the "concrete" facebook groups
Can you do a flake epoxy system over this?
Can this process be used for deeper irregularities - say up to 2 inches?
I'd patch those areas first. You can use the same stuff. Let that harden then go over it with this on the whole floor.
great job Mike and team. I paint concrete pools wonder if those shoe ins would work for me.
I suppose they would.
would this self level concrete work on a garage floor and be just as tuff?
It would if you do it right, yes.
Is there no chances of cracks in future with this product?
Can this be used for a garage floor, that will have cars on it?
I wonder how durable this stuff is. 😊
A spiked roller works better than a squeegee...as it doesn't pull or push any material away from level...it also will pop any air bubbles or lumps.
14 minute mark you can see all the uneven flow marks and pot holes from using a squeegee instead of a spiked roller...and it will dry just like that.
Next day it was perfectly level.
Excelente trabajo 👌👌👌 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👌💯
Thank you!
That has to be tough to get it to level height being so uneven !! Even with the screws at the height !!
Tim, the screws made it very east. The mixers really did all the work.
Mike, can you use a self-leveler outside, in the weather?
This one you can yes. Not all of them are rated for exterior though.
Are you planning to ad a video of your stamped overlay
It'll be out Friday.
Can you apply epoxy over this stuff after leveled
Yes you can
Hey Mike, would love to know with new garage flooring that’s around 1 month old, should I use a primer before using an epoxy?
It depends on the epoxy, but in most cases yes. You gotta grind that concrete first. Then primer epoxy, then colored epoxy.
1 month concrete is still pretty green and will still have a fair amount of moisture that could bubble epoxy.
Sir, where are you located ? I have questions about this type of job.
I'm in Maine
@@MikeDayConcrete Can we talk on the phone?
Self-leveling means no height screws needed?!?!
Guess IT'S NOT SELF-LEVELING!
This be ok to use on a garage floor in a bodyshop?
You can, yes.
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
would a product like this hold up in an actual garage? or what would you recommend to resurface a garage floor with decent sized cracks and pits
Can I use this on a driveway ? It looks amazing .
It is rated for exterior. It would be smooth though.
They need N95s when they empty the bags.
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
You're welcome.
What type of screws?
I didn’t see you use the primer for the leveler… that floor will likely crack and delaminate.
We used one.
@@MikeDayConcrete I just remember mine being pink in color.