Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣 If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking. It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry. I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more. I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said. The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper. I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate. Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm. Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
Would you recommend this product to level out uneven spots on the floor or should you do the whole floor? I have a new poor,garage floor that got scalped a little bit with the power trowel. Would you recommend this product to fill that in? thank you
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone. You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
as floor guy who did a lot selfleveling, a small tip, you can buy that roller, it is game changer, and make perfect perfect. it work like vibrator screed. another tip, you can put few light bar on another end, after you spread out, check the reflection of light to find any deshape.
It sure is good to learn all the details of what products and tools you use. Always something new, very much appreciated. Am looking forward to the stampable overlay techniques too. Thank you for the video it is great.
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
Hello Mike, had a question. I'm looking at resurfacing my garage floor and wanted to know if this Sakrete product would hold up to having a car parked on it? Also, could you epoxy or paint this floor right after it has cured or would you still need to grind or etch it before applying those coatings? Thanks and enjoy your videos!
It would hold up in a garage, yes. If I were to epoxy over it, I would lightly grind it but I grind everything we epoxy over. It is porous already but I wouldn't chance it, always grind if you epoxy. I don't like just etching and don't recommend it.
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
Hi Mike. I just had a new floor pour and it has a 1.5 inch pitch to a central drain. It has abt a 5/8 low area 8×8 ft on a 44x36 floor. Can Self leveling concrete work on a pitch floor and maintain the pitch? Thanks
Hey Mike... question! If I use 2 diffrent brand name products for sealer and then use Sakrete, outdoor self leveling concrete. Because neither Lowes or Home Depot doesn't carry the specific brand.
I have basically exactly the same looking garage floor and was wondering what I can do :) Thanks. Just one question, when I'm allowed to cover this with epoxy? Do I need to grind it or I can do it just on top, as it's new?
I plan on using this stuff to level and prep floors in a 100 year old house where I'm laying LVT throughout. I know I have to seal up all the cracks and holes in the floors but I need to use the primer if I'm just going over the leveler with clicklock flooring?
How many bags did you go through? Where can I get the primer and the concrete lever? Great video. I need to do my driveway will it hold up to ice and also can I use salt on it to melt the snow? How long will it last? I do have prety big cracks
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
Can this be done on an exterior patio? For a bit more info: I had a company come and level out my badly broken up 25x11 patio (with crushed limestone) so it is level now… however the cracks remain. Can I patch the cracks and use this same method? I live in northwest Indiana so I do have a rough winter….
So would a primer help when the concrete has already been painted and I want to put down some thin leveling compound? My house uses hydronic floor heating and the builder (owner built) used regular concrete and not gypsum. Then the concrete was painted and carpet laid down, single layer, no pad. It's not in terrible condition but I'm thinking about vinyl flooring planks, no foam. I haven't check to see how level or straight the floor is. Just some barely visible trowel marks so not a smooth pour. Thanks.
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
That's the product I need for my shop. Just checked the price and got a bit of sticker shock, $36 per 50 lb bag! The "countertop" mix was only $22 per 80 lb bag. The specs look similar. What's the difference between these two mixes? I'd assume the countertop mix isn't formulated to pour as thinly? Also, I'm curious about how you estimated the quantity of mix to purchase for the job? And is there a DIY method that works without a laser level setup? Thanks
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out Can’t wait for the next one!
Can you use this self-leveler to resurface a garage floor? What I mean by that is will this thin coat of concrete crack under the weight of a heavy car or truck? What would you recommend for a job like that?
Mike - How would you fix a concrete pad (driveway) outside where I used Ice Melt by mistake and the top finish spawled and now I can see the aggregate... I have heard so many different opinions locally... some say I have to dig it up and start over, some say an epoxy surface top coat... With car traffic I don't want something that will fail in the future. I had no idea Ice Melt would destroy the concrete... Thanks - Great content by the way...
About to put self-leveling down in my kitchen - a much smaller space than this, but I'm still kinda nervous about it! With this install did you have to sand the surface at all to lose any trowel / join marks? I've seen SLC done a few times and where the pours join they never seem to merge seamlessly even once fully set.
@@MikeDayConcrete I'm in the UK so used Screwfix's own. Did another room with the same stuff and it went a lot better. Feel a lot happier about it now...not sure I could get a floor level but could probably get one flat, with even coverage across it. Trying to corral the stuff into different areas in different amounts to get it both flat and level would probably be pushing it tho... I think I'd be tempted to use some kind of flat edge with screwheads in the floor for that. (Or even separate the floor into dammed-off areas and do them individually - I'm only DIY so the time is secondary to getting a good result with my limited skills).
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
I'm trying to crowdfund for drywall and SL concrete. We had a mold issue and it ate our house apart and we lost my mom to the sickness caused by it. I've been working on this house for months and this is going to be a cost effective solution to make things look nicer. I can't afford real floors. So I wanna do this and stain. Or if the crowd funding goes well enough pay a service to epoxy it
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
If you are fixing a floor like that but it's going to be used for working on cars with heavy jacks rolling over it all the time, will it eventually start to separate from the existing floor? I tried that on my garage floor and eventually it lifted. The floor seems to produce this white powder that almost seems to grow from the pits and spalded areas. I have no idea what it's from. I try to wash it out but it always comes back. Maybe that's part of my problem.
I just had this done and they did a horrible job. Can you redo the whole thing after someone had tried leveling it and made a mess? We have craters and pebbles and just different levels of overlay.
I know about nothing about concrete work but I'm getting ready to level and oppoxy my Woodshop. I'm curious why yell didn't start at the low point (drain) and work out from there?
Can you still do this if your carport has been painted? Mine needs it badly...it's so unlevel and doest drain off properly. Huge puddles of rain water in about three spots...one right at entry door
Mike Day, I’m a retired concrete contractor. Have you considered adding a little bit of powdered calcium chloride to help the self-leveler bond to the old floor?
I have a serious question, I'm building 2 post n beams for extra support for my house, I've poured my concrete last night inside my basement, how long do I have to wait untill I can install my post n beams.
I love watching your vids. They're so clear, and you explain and show each step - saved every one. Thanks so much
Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
"Self leveler self levels itself" is the best quote from this video :)
You’re a Master concrete specialist!!! Fantastic procedure. I will definitely follow your instructions. Thanks!
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
Great tip!
Rule of thumb in self leveling is primer is a must
Okay, how do you fix if primer wasn't used before the pour?
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣
If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking.
It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry.
I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more.
I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
Wow, very tedious, but you guys just knock ‘em out, you guys might just be the very best,looking forward to the next vid.
Thank you Mike!
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
Thanks, that's awesome!
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
You're right on George!
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
Awesome, thank you for the comment!
Must mix according to manufacturer, water to powder ratio needs to be accurate
No mention of the surface destroying bubbles that I experienced. Awful!
@@matoko123 was a primer required and did you use it?
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said.
The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper.
I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate.
Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm.
Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
You’re the best in the business! I wish you worked in my area.
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
It's always possible. Being this old and now a heated space I think this one will be good.
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
Excellent video. thank you for all the great content here !! Anyone looking to self level a floor should watch this.
I appreciate that!
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
I took a drink of beer every time he said level. Ten minutes in and I'm done.
Do you want alcohol poisoning? Because that's how you get alcohol poisoning.
Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
I ran out of beer.
🤣🤣
My friend died trying to also drink during the 'stampable overlays'
How thick is the stampable overlay concrete(?) that you layed after self leveler? And why do self level first and not level with stampable concrete?
Slick trick on an unlevel surface with the screws. I am doing self levelling over a rough surface concrete Patio as a base for laying stone.
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
It might work, you saw how bad this floor was.
It looks good, I feel like you need to be patience and let the mix do its job floor looks good after. Great job !! Good video. Take care thanks 😊
Yes! Thank you!
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
I'm very impressed by your skill and expertise. Well done.
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
Quickrete has a self leveler now that comes in a 5 gal drywall bucket pretty handy
That is handy! Thanks
Would you recommend this product to level out uneven spots on the floor or should you do the whole floor?
I have a new poor,garage floor that got scalped a little bit with the power trowel. Would you recommend this product to fill that in? thank you
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone.
You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
@@MikeDayConcrete hanks so much! I've been wanting to fix it up but not wanting to make a mess! Have a great day!
as floor guy who did a lot selfleveling, a small tip, you can buy that roller, it is game changer, and make perfect perfect. it work like vibrator screed. another tip, you can put few light bar on another end, after you spread out, check the reflection of light to find any deshape.
Would like to have seen you laser after the first coat to see how close you can get it to level. Good video, thanks.
It sure is good to learn all the details of what products and tools you use. Always something new, very much appreciated. Am looking forward to the stampable overlay techniques too.
Thank you for the video it is great.
My pleasure Glenn!
This is great! How would you do a floor that is up to 3" out of level?
What are your thoughts on using this to smooth out an area with a lot of exposed aggregate making it painful to walk on?
It could be used for that.
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
Hello Mike, had a question. I'm looking at resurfacing my garage floor and wanted to know if this Sakrete product would hold up to having a car parked on it? Also, could you epoxy or paint this floor right after it has cured or would you still need to grind or etch it before applying those coatings? Thanks and enjoy your videos!
It would hold up in a garage, yes. If I were to epoxy over it, I would lightly grind it but I grind everything we epoxy over. It is porous already but I wouldn't chance it, always grind if you epoxy. I don't like just etching and don't recommend it.
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
Hi Mike. I just had a new floor pour and it has a 1.5 inch pitch to a central drain. It has abt a 5/8 low area 8×8 ft on a 44x36 floor. Can Self leveling concrete work on a pitch floor and maintain the pitch? Thanks
Hey Mike... question! If I use 2 diffrent brand name products for sealer and then use Sakrete, outdoor self leveling concrete. Because neither Lowes or Home Depot doesn't carry the specific brand.
I have basically exactly the same looking garage floor and was wondering what I can do :) Thanks. Just one question, when I'm allowed to cover this with epoxy? Do I need to grind it or I can do it just on top, as it's new?
Oh... never mind I see same question below and your answer :) Thanks again.
I plan on using this stuff to level and prep floors in a 100 year old house where I'm laying LVT throughout. I know I have to seal up all the cracks and holes in the floors but I need to use the primer if I'm just going over the leveler with clicklock flooring?
How many bags did you go through? Where can I get the primer and the concrete lever? Great video. I need to do my driveway will it hold up to ice and also can I use salt on it to melt the snow? How long will it last? I do have prety big cracks
Thanks for another great video Mike. I have a job just like this coming up and sure appreciate the walk-through on the process.
I'd recommend using the Sakrete self leveler. Let me know if you can't find any.
Wow!
You could put a dye in it and make it look like marble..
That's nice product..
Awesome product!
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
Paint a tile PVA on it first.
Did you end up going over tile?
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
Very nice job. Look forward to the stamp finish.
Thanks Ron, it'll be out Friday.
Can this be put on top of old tiles or on top of old terrazzo that had glue and carpet on top before?
Excellent video. Much thanks!
Can your drive on it without damaging? Would like to smooth out my garage floor.
What kinda space are you estimating for the overlap of the face frame? This video glazed over that
Can this be done on an exterior patio? For a bit more info: I had a company come and level out my badly broken up 25x11 patio (with crushed limestone) so it is level now… however the cracks remain. Can I patch the cracks and use this same method? I live in northwest Indiana so I do have a rough winter….
Great videos, such detail, I almost feel like I could do this... almost.
I think just about anyone could do this.
So would a primer help when the concrete has already been painted and I want to put down some thin leveling compound? My house uses hydronic floor heating and the builder (owner built) used regular concrete and not gypsum. Then the concrete was painted and carpet laid down, single layer, no pad. It's not in terrible condition but I'm thinking about vinyl flooring planks, no foam. I haven't check to see how level or straight the floor is. Just some barely visible trowel marks so not a smooth pour. Thanks.
Great video. How do you maintain proper flow to the drain?
That self leveler came out real nice
Have you used the concrete recap for floors like this and left it? I’m wanting to do it smooth finished but did a test run and it feels very grainy.
Love watching pros do their thing!
Can this product be left without anything over it? like a patio ? (outdoors)
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
Mike what would you recommend (product) for an outdoor forklift pad that is heavily spalled ?
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
Could do this if it was still a garage, or would the weight of vehicles be a
problem?
That's the product I need for my shop. Just checked the price and got a bit of sticker shock, $36 per 50 lb bag! The "countertop" mix was only $22 per 80 lb bag. The specs look similar. What's the difference between these two mixes? I'd assume the countertop mix isn't formulated to pour as thinly?
Also, I'm curious about how you estimated the quantity of mix to purchase for the job? And is there a DIY method that works without a laser level setup?
Thanks
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
That material works great, how thick of a layer can this be installed?.
This will go up to 1" neat, you can go thicker if you add pea-stone to the mix.
would a product like this hold up in an actual garage? or what would you recommend to resurface a garage floor with decent sized cracks and pits
How do you like your Bosch vacuum? That's the 300 CFM model right?
Have you ever used a Pulse Bac Pro311 by chance to compare it to?
We like the Bosch. I haven't compared it to others. I'd be willing to if someone sent me one.
I love watching your videos very helpful,you guys do top notch work.
I appreciate that Jason!
I have a spot that runs back towards my foundation, could this be used to raise it a bit?
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out
Can’t wait for the next one!
Thanks for the tip!
Awesome video! I am looking to do this a finished floor in my studio space. What sealer do you recommend for finishing of this overlay? Thanks!
what do you charge for something like this? the prep, the levelor and the stamped colored overlay?
Is this strong and durable enough to leave the self leveling as a finished surface? Could it be sanded and or polished?
Can you use this self-leveler to resurface a garage floor? What I mean by that is will this thin coat of concrete crack under the weight of a heavy car or truck? What would you recommend for a job like that?
Thanks for taking the time to create such great content. 🇺🇸👍
How do you prevent little air bubbles from forming after the self-leveler dries. I got a ton of them in my project... 😔
Is,this material ok for drive able outdoor surfaces?
Great video super helpful!
How many sqft was the area and how many bags did you use?
I'm considering doing around 800sqft of my basement.
This was 480 sf. About 40 bags. They'll do about 50 sf at 1/8" thick.
With the slop of the floor how did you calculate for your material/number of bags?
Mike - How would you fix a concrete pad (driveway) outside where I used Ice Melt by mistake and the top finish spawled and now I can see the aggregate... I have heard so many different opinions locally... some say I have to dig it up and start over, some say an epoxy surface top coat... With car traffic I don't want something that will fail in the future. I had no idea Ice Melt would destroy the concrete... Thanks - Great content by the way...
In areas where the leveler is thin how durable is it? Should you really put a finished floor on top for durability?
About to put self-leveling down in my kitchen - a much smaller space than this, but I'm still kinda nervous about it!
With this install did you have to sand the surface at all to lose any trowel / join marks? I've seen SLC done a few times and where the pours join they never seem to merge seamlessly even once fully set.
All the batches were seamless, couldn't tell one from the other. NO sanding afterwards at all.
@@MikeDayConcrete good job! Just done mine this afternoon, had to trowel it flat! 😂
What product did you use?
@@MikeDayConcrete I'm in the UK so used Screwfix's own. Did another room with the same stuff and it went a lot better. Feel a lot happier about it now...not sure I could get a floor level but could probably get one flat, with even coverage across it. Trying to corral the stuff into different areas in different amounts to get it both flat and level would probably be pushing it tho... I think I'd be tempted to use some kind of flat edge with screwheads in the floor for that. (Or even separate the floor into dammed-off areas and do them individually - I'm only DIY so the time is secondary to getting a good result with my limited skills).
Move fast! Get the second batch down before the first starts to go off.
Great video, great narration, great finished product!
Love the detailed narration
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
You're welcome.
What type of screws?
One of the best and concise instructional videos I’ve watched! Since 2005 have watched over 5,000 videos! You guys are real professionals!
Is there a color option for it to cure like regular gray concrete or is there only white?
Looks great Mike! I'm gonna check out that mixer, mine is about shot....
The mixer is awesome. Darin loves it.
I'm trying to crowdfund for drywall and SL concrete. We had a mold issue and it ate our house apart and we lost my mom to the sickness caused by it. I've been working on this house for months and this is going to be a cost effective solution to make things look nicer. I can't afford real floors. So I wanna do this and stain. Or if the crowd funding goes well enough pay a service to epoxy it
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
Great video! Thank you for sharing this with us.
You bet!
If you are fixing a floor like that but it's going to be used for working on cars with heavy jacks rolling over it all the time, will it eventually start to separate from the existing floor? I tried that on my garage floor and eventually it lifted. The floor seems to produce this white powder that almost seems to grow from the pits and spalded areas. I have no idea what it's from. I try to wash it out but it always comes back. Maybe that's part of my problem.
Efflorescence? Do you have a water problem?
@@paulmvn5431 I don't think so. There isn't any plastic down over the gravel so maybe some moisture is wicking up to the surface.
Great video. If you just wanted to keep the natural look and not use a shiny sealer, what sealer would you recommend to use on this?
I love this video. By far, my favorite 👍
Yay! Thank you!
Is it ok to stain it before you seal it? IF so, would i need to etch the new concrete floor or apply the stain directly? Thank you
You can stain this without etching.
Will this type of overlay work for a residential garage floor with vehicle parking ?
This one from Sakrete would work for a garage, yes.
I just had this done and they did a horrible job. Can you redo the whole thing after someone had tried leveling it and made a mess? We have craters and pebbles and just different levels of overlay.
nice job and all :) i just wonder .. what happens when the owner wants to remove those cabinets ?
Excelente trabajo 👌👌👌 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👌💯
Thank you!
I know about nothing about concrete work but I'm getting ready to level and oppoxy my Woodshop. I'm curious why yell didn't start at the low point (drain) and work out from there?
Great description of the process. Great video!
Can you still do this if your carport has been painted? Mine needs it badly...it's so unlevel and doest drain off properly. Huge puddles of rain water in about three spots...one right at entry door
Mike Day, I’m a retired concrete contractor. Have you considered adding a little bit of powdered calcium chloride to help the self-leveler bond to the old floor?
I have a serious question, I'm building 2 post n beams for extra support for my house, I've poured my concrete last night inside my basement, how long do I have to wait untill I can install my post n beams.
I'd wait at least a week.
Do you seal around the edges of the walls and if so, what do you use?