Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣 If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking. It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry. I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more. I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
as floor guy who did a lot selfleveling, a small tip, you can buy that roller, it is game changer, and make perfect perfect. it work like vibrator screed. another tip, you can put few light bar on another end, after you spread out, check the reflection of light to find any deshape.
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said. The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper. I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate. Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm. Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
It sure is good to learn all the details of what products and tools you use. Always something new, very much appreciated. Am looking forward to the stampable overlay techniques too. Thank you for the video it is great.
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out Can’t wait for the next one!
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone. You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
Mike Day, I’m a retired concrete contractor. Have you considered adding a little bit of powdered calcium chloride to help the self-leveler bond to the old floor?
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
I'm trying to crowdfund for drywall and SL concrete. We had a mold issue and it ate our house apart and we lost my mom to the sickness caused by it. I've been working on this house for months and this is going to be a cost effective solution to make things look nicer. I can't afford real floors. So I wanna do this and stain. Or if the crowd funding goes well enough pay a service to epoxy it
Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
Prep and primer are spot on. I would add that you should keep rolling the primer and even add a little to ensure there is No porosity because every bubble will show. However... Why does everyone work self-leveling compound by hand? It's called Self-Leveling for a reason. Done that way it is Not level or even flat, regardless of how many "grade screws" you use. No human is that good by hand, at least not on an entire floor. Patching low spots or damage is a different story. If you don't believe me, pour water on the finished coat after it cures; there will be puddles. 1.) Find the highest spot in the floor then add 1/8", that is your finished floor grade. 2.) Form off all doorways, etc. and seal to prevent seepage. 3.) Mark the walls/forms at finished grade height. 4.) Mix leveling compound per instructions, if not slightly thinner (never thicker). 5.) Pour up to your marked grade lines and walk away, do not touch it. Screeding is possible, but very difficult with thin coats.
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
Would you recommend this product to level out uneven spots on the floor or should you do the whole floor? I have a new poor,garage floor that got scalped a little bit with the power trowel. Would you recommend this product to fill that in? thank you
I know about nothing about concrete work but I'm getting ready to level and oppoxy my Woodshop. I'm curious why yell didn't start at the low point (drain) and work out from there?
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
I plan on using this stuff to level and prep floors in a 100 year old house where I'm laying LVT throughout. I know I have to seal up all the cracks and holes in the floors but I need to use the primer if I'm just going over the leveler with clicklock flooring?
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
So would a primer help when the concrete has already been painted and I want to put down some thin leveling compound? My house uses hydronic floor heating and the builder (owner built) used regular concrete and not gypsum. Then the concrete was painted and carpet laid down, single layer, no pad. It's not in terrible condition but I'm thinking about vinyl flooring planks, no foam. I haven't check to see how level or straight the floor is. Just some barely visible trowel marks so not a smooth pour. Thanks.
How many bags did you go through? Where can I get the primer and the concrete lever? Great video. I need to do my driveway will it hold up to ice and also can I use salt on it to melt the snow? How long will it last? I do have prety big cracks
I just had this done and they did a horrible job. Can you redo the whole thing after someone had tried leveling it and made a mess? We have craters and pebbles and just different levels of overlay.
Have you ever heard that mixing self level with ice water makes it flow way better i work for a commercial tile company specializing in hospitals and schools we do a lot of self level and we fill a 50gal drum with water and add two large bags of ice then we use the ice water when we mix we use a cut off 50 gal drum mixing 3 bags at a time
Can you use this self-leveler to resurface a garage floor? What I mean by that is will this thin coat of concrete crack under the weight of a heavy car or truck? What would you recommend for a job like that?
That's the product I need for my shop. Just checked the price and got a bit of sticker shock, $36 per 50 lb bag! The "countertop" mix was only $22 per 80 lb bag. The specs look similar. What's the difference between these two mixes? I'd assume the countertop mix isn't formulated to pour as thinly? Also, I'm curious about how you estimated the quantity of mix to purchase for the job? And is there a DIY method that works without a laser level setup? Thanks
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
Mike - How would you fix a concrete pad (driveway) outside where I used Ice Melt by mistake and the top finish spawled and now I can see the aggregate... I have heard so many different opinions locally... some say I have to dig it up and start over, some say an epoxy surface top coat... With car traffic I don't want something that will fail in the future. I had no idea Ice Melt would destroy the concrete... Thanks - Great content by the way...
Can you still do this if your carport has been painted? Mine needs it badly...it's so unlevel and doest drain off properly. Huge puddles of rain water in about three spots...one right at entry door
Can this be done on an exterior patio? For a bit more info: I had a company come and level out my badly broken up 25x11 patio (with crushed limestone) so it is level now… however the cracks remain. Can I patch the cracks and use this same method? I live in northwest Indiana so I do have a rough winter….
Hi Mike. I just had a new floor pour and it has a 1.5 inch pitch to a central drain. It has abt a 5/8 low area 8×8 ft on a 44x36 floor. Can Self leveling concrete work on a pitch floor and maintain the pitch? Thanks
"Self leveler self levels itself" is the best quote from this video :)
Proven again! How a master tradesman can make a complex procedure look so simple, and there lies the danger for D.I.Y'ers! An amazing job! There was a lot of technical know-how going on here.
Great content Mike. Being in the flooring business for 20 years now I have used alot of self leveling. My only recommendation I would say and you already said it. Use the primer every time. Keep up the good work. 👍
Great tip!
Rule of thumb in self leveling is primer is a must
Okay, how do you fix if primer wasn't used before the pour?
@@Wright_Works cross fingers. 🫣
If it didn't pop, you'll probably be fine, but I agree. It helps the bond and helps reduce moisture being sucked from the self leveler. Most self levelers require X amount of water per bag. If it looks too thick, don't add another cup of water to suit it to your liking.
It's a precisely engineered material and you don't want to screw with the chemistry.
I added extra water on my first job. Not much, maybe a half cup.... or more.
I came back two hours later and there was a 1/32" pool of water in the center of the pour. It should have been ok to walk on, but it wasn't.
You’re a Master concrete specialist!!! Fantastic procedure. I will definitely follow your instructions. Thanks!
as floor guy who did a lot selfleveling, a small tip, you can buy that roller, it is game changer, and make perfect perfect. it work like vibrator screed. another tip, you can put few light bar on another end, after you spread out, check the reflection of light to find any deshape.
I've used a couple of the self leveling products. Great to have the three of you to work together on this with two mixing and you moving it around. That stuff can set up pretty quickly! It's not cheap, but it is WAY more cost effective than the alternative: Breaking up the old floor and pouring a new one.
You're right on George!
I was renovating Ikea bathrooms with my buddies and we used self leveling concrete for the floors because we ripped out the old tiles and took some of the concrete with them. We had the tile guys coming in two days and they were suoer happy with the result. Very simple easy job and this a great idea to make a old garage floor have some youth into it again.
Thanks, that's awesome!
My experiences with this stuff have been excellent. Early on, I found that you MUST mix it to a loose, pourable consistency....don't worry about it being too thin. If it's too thick, it won't flow and level. You must seal ALL edges and openings through which the leveler can seep out. not only will it make a divot in the final job, it may damage something down below. Finally, this stuff "cures" rather than "dries." So, as soon as you mix it, it wants to start hardening up. Pour it, spread it, level it and MOVE ON! It's great for leveling bathroom floors, too!
Awesome, thank you for the comment!
Must mix according to manufacturer, water to powder ratio needs to be accurate
No mention of the surface destroying bubbles that I experienced. Awful!
@@matoko123 was a primer required and did you use it?
@@SuperTedsmith that is exactly what needed to be said.
The first job I did with self leveling material was a learning experience. I mixed exactly the right amount of water according to the directions but it looked too thick so I add an extra cup or two of water to where I thought it looked like it should be. I left for an hour and a half and when I came back it was Matt colored around the perimeter of the area and it was a very thin film of water across the middle where the floor was deeper.
I learned is that this is a chemical reaction. When mixed according to instructions the water and the cement mixture combine in a way that makes this reaction take place. When mixed correctly, some of the products can be walked on in an hour because the chemical reaction removes or converts the water. If you add extra water, the chemical reaction still takes place but then the entire mix has too much water and now the water must evaporate.
Can take an awful long time for the water to evaporate. A couple of hours, it may take a few days and who knows how that extra water effected of the material. This is not plain old concrete. These are high-tech materials and the only thing that's important is having the mixing containers ready to go so you can do the poor as quickly as possible. That can mean having an extra person or two doing nothing but cleaning buckets and getting them ready for the next mixing. It's better to have too many people than not enough, especially so when the weather is warm.
Use cold water to slow down the chemical process, not hot water from 100 ft hose laying outside..... If you use the warm or hot water from the hose you will learn very quickly why not to do that. 😁
Wow, very tedious, but you guys just knock ‘em out, you guys might just be the very best,looking forward to the next vid.
Thank you Mike!
I love watching your vids. They're so clear, and you explain and show each step - saved every one. Thanks so much
I would like to see a follow-up in a year. The floor appears to have a lot of existing cracks. I expect those to all telegraph through your new finish floor. Good luck!
It's always possible. Being this old and now a heated space I think this one will be good.
Love watching these videos. Maybe I can do this in my basement. My town has had at least two 100 year floods in the last 50 yrs before they fixed the river flow. My 104 yr old house has several rooms in the basement where the concrete has failed and is all broken up or cracked... something I discovered only after removing the false floors. I just want to get all the debris removed and get some respectable concrete floors in. This would work short of pouring all new thick floors.
It might work, you saw how bad this floor was.
Slick trick on an unlevel surface with the screws. I am doing self levelling over a rough surface concrete Patio as a base for laying stone.
Excellent video. thank you for all the great content here !! Anyone looking to self level a floor should watch this.
I appreciate that!
Great video guys I wish I would have watched this before I did my bathroom but it did turn out pretty good again thank you excellent video
Great video and great work. Thanks for the great instruction. Would this work in a garage or would the overlay eventually fail if is too thin? Thanks again!
Would like to have seen you laser after the first coat to see how close you can get it to level. Good video, thanks.
You’re the best in the business! I wish you worked in my area.
You should really invest in a three bag mixer. Wolff makes ones with wheels and a pivoting point so you don’t have to make your boys break there backs . It also has a removable mixer holder. Been working with a product from Germany called Uzin and it levels out much more glassy and more fluid like. Much better than the other brands I’ve worked with never gone back. I like your screw technique btw !
It sure is good to learn all the details of what products and tools you use. Always something new, very much appreciated. Am looking forward to the stampable overlay techniques too.
Thank you for the video it is great.
My pleasure Glenn!
Quickrete has a self leveler now that comes in a 5 gal drywall bucket pretty handy
That is handy! Thanks
It looks good, I feel like you need to be patience and let the mix do its job floor looks good after. Great job !! Good video. Take care thanks 😊
Yes! Thank you!
Very helpful. QUESTION: I have an old floor we are chipping saltillo tile out of. It will probably need repairs and leveling. I want to make this floor a sandy off off-white color with no joints or stamping. Prefer a finish similar to a fine smooth plastered wall. Not looking for a high polish. I imagine it will need a penetrating sealer, and we want to ensure that the sealer leaves no sheen or coated appearance. I appreciate the advice upfront. Thank you!
Very cool video! Around a minute in you put black text over the screen - if you put a slight white outline around the text it’ll make it more legible. Same with the white arrow at about a minute thirty but in reverse - a black outline around the arrow would help it stand out
Can’t wait for the next one!
Thanks for the tip!
If you have an indoor laser level you can wrap tape around the drill n mark a line on it , whenever the laser is on that line you know the end of your bit is grade. Time is money. 💪🏼
Great video. How do you maintain proper flow to the drain?
How thick is the stampable overlay concrete(?) that you layed after self leveler? And why do self level first and not level with stampable concrete?
Can your drive on it without damaging? Would like to smooth out my garage floor.
Do you have a video showing fixing the spalling and big craters or cracks prior to using the self-leveling? What would be the maximum thickness you could use? Can you put down two coats? I've got a garage with a wacky floor, a corner and the garage door threshold have settled.
Check out Sakrete Pro-Mix All purpose cement repair. That's what you can use to repair first. Also their Top & Bond repair. You can go thicker with this if you add some pea-stone to the mix when mixing (up to 1.5") You can go up to 1" without the added stone.
You can layer over itself, just use the primer between layers.
@@MikeDayConcrete hanks so much! I've been wanting to fix it up but not wanting to make a mess! Have a great day!
I'm very impressed by your skill and expertise. Well done.
Question: shouldn’t you start with filling the deepest area and work your way towards the shallower areas so that it doesn’t try to run downhill to the deep area? I’m gonna have to do this in my basement and was just wondering.
Excellent video. Much thanks!
This is great! How would you do a floor that is up to 3" out of level?
Mike Day, I’m a retired concrete contractor. Have you considered adding a little bit of powdered calcium chloride to help the self-leveler bond to the old floor?
Very nice job. Look forward to the stamp finish.
Thanks Ron, it'll be out Friday.
I'm buying a house with a cement basement and I plan on some type of flooring, but I don't think the floor is level. The screws are an excellent idea to use as a reference. Thank you
You're welcome.
What type of screws?
Wow!
You could put a dye in it and make it look like marble..
That's nice product..
Awesome product!
Thanks for another great video Mike. I have a job just like this coming up and sure appreciate the walk-through on the process.
I'd recommend using the Sakrete self leveler. Let me know if you can't find any.
I'm trying to crowdfund for drywall and SL concrete. We had a mold issue and it ate our house apart and we lost my mom to the sickness caused by it. I've been working on this house for months and this is going to be a cost effective solution to make things look nicer. I can't afford real floors. So I wanna do this and stain. Or if the crowd funding goes well enough pay a service to epoxy it
I took a drink of beer every time he said level. Ten minutes in and I'm done.
Do you want alcohol poisoning? Because that's how you get alcohol poisoning.
Sure. With that attitude, you sound like the type of guy the rest of us goes behind and fixes their “work”. Have another for us, we don’t mind the extra work. 💰is💰
I ran out of beer.
🤣🤣
My friend died trying to also drink during the 'stampable overlays'
Great video, great narration, great finished product!
Great video. Can I use regular quickcrete cement to bring up the floor 3\4" prior to using an 1/8" of self leveler on a floor.? Leveler is $37 per bag now days.
Great videos, such detail, I almost feel like I could do this... almost.
I think just about anyone could do this.
Will this concrete survive harsh -20 ambient winters to 95 deg summers, or will it crack and spall? Planning to cover a non-climate controlled 1912 garage that has 6'x6'concrete slabs that have shifted over time. Thanks!
Have you ever painted the screw heads a contrasting color like white or fluorescent pink?
Prep and primer are spot on. I would add that you should keep rolling the primer and even add a little to ensure there is No porosity because every bubble will show.
However...
Why does everyone work self-leveling compound by hand? It's called Self-Leveling for a reason. Done that way it is Not level or even flat, regardless of how many "grade screws" you use. No human is that good by hand, at least not on an entire floor. Patching low spots or damage is a different story. If you don't believe me, pour water on the finished coat after it cures; there will be puddles.
1.) Find the highest spot in the floor then add 1/8", that is your finished floor grade. 2.) Form off all doorways, etc. and seal to prevent seepage. 3.) Mark the walls/forms at finished grade height. 4.) Mix leveling compound per instructions, if not slightly thinner (never thicker). 5.) Pour up to your marked grade lines and walk away, do not touch it.
Screeding is possible, but very difficult with thin coats.
Could do this if it was still a garage, or would the weight of vehicles be a
problem?
Have you used the concrete recap for floors like this and left it? I’m wanting to do it smooth finished but did a test run and it feels very grainy.
That material works great, how thick of a layer can this be installed?.
This will go up to 1" neat, you can go thicker if you add pea-stone to the mix.
Great video! My "new" house has a garage converted to a living room, and it's way out of level. It's got 12" ceramic tile down, and Jeff at Home Renovision has said you can go over tile (especially if there's possibly asbestos; I don't think mine does likely doesn't b/c it's from the 1990s). If you agree, should I rough up the tile or just pour on top . . . to what thickness? I want to install LVP. Thanks!
Paint a tile PVA on it first.
Did you end up going over tile?
@@hectorsanchez2524 I've got the floor prepped, but the drop is 2", so I'm going have to build that end up by adding gravel, then let that set and cool before adding the self-leveling concrete.
Would you recommend this product to level out uneven spots on the floor or should you do the whole floor?
I have a new poor,garage floor that got scalped a little bit with the power trowel. Would you recommend this product to fill that in? thank you
I want to re surface an outdoor patio and I am wondering how soon can I apply some sealer to this after it is put down?
nice job and all :) i just wonder .. what happens when the owner wants to remove those cabinets ?
Thanks for taking the time to create such great content. 🇺🇸👍
Great video! Thank you for sharing this with us.
You bet!
How do you prevent little air bubbles from forming after the self-leveler dries. I got a ton of them in my project... 😔
What are your thoughts on using this to smooth out an area with a lot of exposed aggregate making it painful to walk on?
It could be used for that.
I don't see a link to the mixer or the shoes in the description.
Can this be put on top of old tiles or on top of old terrazzo that had glue and carpet on top before?
great job Mike. What primer did you use for the concrete?
Do you seal around the edges of the walls and if so, what do you use?
Love the detailed narration
Glad you enjoyed it
I love watching your videos very helpful,you guys do top notch work.
I appreciate that Jason!
Excelente trabajo 👌👌👌 saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱👌💯
Thank you!
I know about nothing about concrete work but I'm getting ready to level and oppoxy my Woodshop. I'm curious why yell didn't start at the low point (drain) and work out from there?
How well would this perform used outdoors to resurface badly spalled concrete in to driveway? No heavy trucks, cars and pickups only. Freezing down to 5 or 10 F in winter, 100F in summer.
It's rated for exterior use and is stronger than concrete. Really depends on the prep and adhesion to the existing concrete. It will work if it's done right.
what do you charge for something like this? the prep, the levelor and the stamped colored overlay?
Is there any reason to put a gap around the edges for expansion? Some videos show this as a part of the process.
I plan on using this stuff to level and prep floors in a 100 year old house where I'm laying LVT throughout. I know I have to seal up all the cracks and holes in the floors but I need to use the primer if I'm just going over the leveler with clicklock flooring?
your videos are extremely helpful, thank you. I've been using sakrete products to repair a slab and I'm ready to use the self leveling resurface but the Sakrete Bonder & Fortifier as well as the Bond Strength Primer Additive don't seem to be available anywhere. is there a good substitute product you can recommend? thank you
So would a primer help when the concrete has already been painted and I want to put down some thin leveling compound? My house uses hydronic floor heating and the builder (owner built) used regular concrete and not gypsum. Then the concrete was painted and carpet laid down, single layer, no pad. It's not in terrible condition but I'm thinking about vinyl flooring planks, no foam. I haven't check to see how level or straight the floor is. Just some barely visible trowel marks so not a smooth pour. Thanks.
What kinda space are you estimating for the overlap of the face frame? This video glazed over that
I have a spot that runs back towards my foundation, could this be used to raise it a bit?
I love this video. By far, my favorite 👍
Yay! Thank you!
Is there a color option for it to cure like regular gray concrete or is there only white?
Looks great Mike! I'm gonna check out that mixer, mine is about shot....
The mixer is awesome. Darin loves it.
How many bags did you go through? Where can I get the primer and the concrete lever? Great video. I need to do my driveway will it hold up to ice and also can I use salt on it to melt the snow? How long will it last? I do have prety big cracks
Hey Mike, or other concrete pros for that matter, is there any reason you guys don’t use a wheelbarrow? Love the content. Thanks!
In areas where the leveler is thin how durable is it? Should you really put a finished floor on top for durability?
Mike what would you recommend (product) for an outdoor forklift pad that is heavily spalled ?
Love watching pros do their thing!
I just had this done and they did a horrible job. Can you redo the whole thing after someone had tried leveling it and made a mess? We have craters and pebbles and just different levels of overlay.
Have you ever heard that mixing self level with ice water makes it flow way better i work for a commercial tile company specializing in hospitals and schools we do a lot of self level and we fill a 50gal drum with water and add two large bags of ice then we use the ice water when we mix we use a cut off 50 gal drum mixing 3 bags at a time
Can you use this self-leveler to resurface a garage floor? What I mean by that is will this thin coat of concrete crack under the weight of a heavy car or truck? What would you recommend for a job like that?
That's the product I need for my shop. Just checked the price and got a bit of sticker shock, $36 per 50 lb bag! The "countertop" mix was only $22 per 80 lb bag. The specs look similar. What's the difference between these two mixes? I'd assume the countertop mix isn't formulated to pour as thinly?
Also, I'm curious about how you estimated the quantity of mix to purchase for the job? And is there a DIY method that works without a laser level setup?
Thanks
My mom has a badly pitted garage and I would love to fix it for her. I feel like this would work great. Do you think it would hold up for a few years if she's driving her car over it with the salt from the roads.
If you prep the concrete like we did, then seal the self leveler afterwards, it'll last. It's 5500 psi, that's stronger than the concrete in the garage.
would a product like this hold up in an actual garage? or what would you recommend to resurface a garage floor with decent sized cracks and pits
Awesome video! I am looking to do this a finished floor in my studio space. What sealer do you recommend for finishing of this overlay? Thanks!
That self leveler came out real nice
Great description of the process. Great video!
Mike - How would you fix a concrete pad (driveway) outside where I used Ice Melt by mistake and the top finish spawled and now I can see the aggregate... I have heard so many different opinions locally... some say I have to dig it up and start over, some say an epoxy surface top coat... With car traffic I don't want something that will fail in the future. I had no idea Ice Melt would destroy the concrete... Thanks - Great content by the way...
Can you still do this if your carport has been painted? Mine needs it badly...it's so unlevel and doest drain off properly. Huge puddles of rain water in about three spots...one right at entry door
One of the best and concise instructional videos I’ve watched! Since 2005 have watched over 5,000 videos! You guys are real professionals!
You did remove the cabinets from the area, didn't you?
Will this type of overlay work for a residential garage floor with vehicle parking ?
This one from Sakrete would work for a garage, yes.
Great video thanks for all the details super thorough
Can this product be left without anything over it? like a patio ? (outdoors)
how many bags of product were used for that floor ?
Can this be done on an exterior patio? For a bit more info: I had a company come and level out my badly broken up 25x11 patio (with crushed limestone) so it is level now… however the cracks remain. Can I patch the cracks and use this same method? I live in northwest Indiana so I do have a rough winter….
Hi Mike. I just had a new floor pour and it has a 1.5 inch pitch to a central drain. It has abt a 5/8 low area 8×8 ft on a 44x36 floor. Can Self leveling concrete work on a pitch floor and maintain the pitch? Thanks