Training as a Watch repairer I tend to regulate them to plus 8 to plus 12 seconda a day so on the wrist they run near enough bang on, off the wrist they gain around 5 to 10 seconds fast over a 24 hour period. Those are my findings after doing approx 60 movements this year, some NH movements can be worse depending on how well put together. The Cronos I have on the wrist at the moment keeps near enough Quartz time.
I agree. I always wear the watch first to see how it behaves in use then I regulate according to those results. Some watches can look great on the timegrapher but be out quite a lot in use.
This is so true for one of mine. I've got multiple NH35 and 6R35 watches but my daily always ran steady 0-1s dial up/down on a timegrapher yet lost around 15 seconds a day in use. After adjusting the watch to that it hasn't gained or lost more than a second a day and now a month on is within a second of my phone.
Gary you've made it look so easy. To all the folks out there, it's not that easy. I tried regulating a movement, the pick slipped and went into the balance spring and completely fudged the movement. It would no longer work anymore So advice; Hack the movement then adjust any lever. Use a wooden pick
Adjusting both can be so frustrating, but when you get it just right, feels so good! I've adjusted a few NH movements to be just as good as a Rolex. I need a timegrapher though, I've been using an app on my phone and earbuds with a microphone. It works, but so fiddly.
Hey, I noticed you're using the defaut 52 deg lift angle on the timegrapher, when the 4R36 movement actually has 53 deg lift angle. Doesn't that affect the measurement? Shouldn't you set the timegrapher to match the 53 deg lift angle of the movement? How much error do you see in the measurement because the timegrapher was not setup correctly?
MAMACOO is one of my favorite watch manufacturers they do offer beautifull dials, good workmanship & moovements.That smooth sweeping second hand is truly mesmerizing！
Nice video like always, Mr Gary. I think that you just forgot mentioning a breve explanation about lift angle so we can expect an accurate amplitude on the movement health. Thank you and regards!
I pretty much do the same thing. One thing very important while adjusting both lever A & B. DO NOT TOUCH THE STUDS ON THEM. Those brass looking "bolts" things on each lever arm. Too technical to explain. But, they are super sensitive and can totally throw off your readings and near impossible to recover unless you know exactly how to readjust them.
@stig585 just don't push on the stud as it will throw off the readings. Use the lever only. Go ahead and try the stud if you want to learn the hard way why not
@@khronokraze can you please elaborate why not? I have already done so and i guess my bit error went from 0.2 to 0.6. Not sure if i caused any irreversible damage
Do you mean if I touch this yellow thing it can get loose, wiggle in the fitting when arm moves and because of that change regulation randomly on its own? I usually touch the yellow thing, seems easier not to touch the spring that way. And I noticed 2 watches started to have inconsistent daily average, like+5 one day and -4 the other while wearing more or less the same way. But I thought it was just random bad luck of mass produced nh35.
Slight correction on words and terms I used in my initial comment(s). There is a stud arm which controls the beat error and regulator arm which controls the rate. What I should have said about those yellow brass components in either is that they should be called pins. They twist and turn to help adjust and control the regulation. But, they are very sensitive and require a special tool to turn them and you really need a very good macro lens to view the pin from underneath to see how the pin is adjusting for a spacing around the spring. Too technical for me to explain thoroughly. I would suggest looking at videos regarding etachron regulation or adjustment. Seeing what it does and how tricky it is to work with may better illustrate why you don't want to mess with it unless u have the proper tools to correct if accidentally moved.
I have found that some movements like being on .1 or .2 beat error. it depends on the specimen and the movement model itself. also i like stting my watches between 0 and +4. you are supposed to time and adjust them 30 minutes after a full wound, to let the mainspring relax a little bit.
In my first adjustment attempts I used toothpicks and ended up with wood particles finding their way between the dial and the crystal. From that point on I use a metal tool which main purpose is pushing out push pins from bracelets. One thing I recommend doing is making sure you’re not looking at your work area from the top but rather from a “parallel” position. This way you have the depth and distance in check (as much as you can with how tiny those things are) and you’re less likely to miss the adjustement leavers and stick the watch right in its beating heart.
Indeed! Job's a goodin'! I need to do this to a number of watches of mine. Q. Can you do a comparison between a phone app which does this and this timegrapher. I'm into watch modding, but reluctant to get a timegrapher, if I can just use an app.
I want to make a small comment on the beaterror regulation and it affecting rate, this happens because the balance spring is not following the regulator curve so it's touching one of the pins for rate regulation. This will make the balance spring touch it more heavily on 1 side especially with high amplitude and affect rate when you try to get beat error to 0. I know seiko mass produces their movements but they are really lazy setting their tolerance really high so they can get away with this.
I can't tell you how many hours I have spent doing that. A Sellita just has a screw, and it takes seconds, what's more the beat error is always OK with that movement. NH movements are fine when the regulation is good, but you never know what your going to get
You made it look easy 😁👍. I think a warning of just how bad an idea it is to touch the hairspring would have been a good idea.
Training as a Watch repairer I tend to regulate them to plus 8 to plus 12 seconda a day so on the wrist they run near enough bang on, off the wrist they gain around 5 to 10 seconds fast over a 24 hour period.
Those are my findings after doing approx 60 movements this year, some NH movements can be worse depending on how well put together.
The Cronos I have on the wrist at the moment keeps near enough Quartz time.
I agree. I always wear the watch first to see how it behaves in use then I regulate according to those results. Some watches can look great on the timegrapher but be out quite a lot in use.
Depends on the movement, but I agree +8 on an N H calibre is about right
This is so true for one of mine. I've got multiple NH35 and 6R35 watches but my daily always ran steady 0-1s dial up/down on a timegrapher yet lost around 15 seconds a day in use. After adjusting the watch to that it hasn't gained or lost more than a second a day and now a month on is within a second of my phone.
Gary you've made it look so easy. To all the folks out there, it's not that easy. I tried regulating a movement, the pick slipped and went into the balance spring and completely fudged the movement. It would no longer work anymore
So advice;
Hack the movement then adjust any lever.
Use a wooden pick
Did exactly the same twice. Great advice about hacking the movement.
I used the springbar tool which was metal. Why is that not ideal?
@@stig585 It can magnetize the movement .
Here's advice. Don't buy a seiko. The only watch that is mentioned to regulate in you tube
I ruined a movement once lol, ended up just replacing the nh35 with a new one lol. I'll try the hacking tip next time.
Adjusting both can be so frustrating, but when you get it just right, feels so good! I've adjusted a few NH movements to be just as good as a Rolex. I need a timegrapher though, I've been using an app on my phone and earbuds with a microphone. It works, but so fiddly.
My favorite watch channel without a doubt.I’m happy to spend my money on MAMACOO watches. I’ve never been let down by their products
MAMACOO has set a new standard for replica watches. Their craftsmanship is impeccable. Its hard to tell the difference from the originals
Thanks for your video Gary just ordered a timegrapher hope it's as easy as described in your video.
Great to see this being done, it’s not something I’ve been brave enough to try yet. I think a timegrapher might have to be added to my Christmas list!
Hey, I noticed you're using the defaut 52 deg lift angle on the timegrapher, when the 4R36 movement actually has 53 deg lift angle. Doesn't that affect the measurement? Shouldn't you set the timegrapher to match the 53 deg lift angle of the movement? How much error do you see in the measurement because the timegrapher was not setup correctly?
This is a great video Gary, never seen this done before and having never seen before I've never wanted to try, nice one😃👍
MAMACOO is one of my favorite watch manufacturers they do offer beautifull dials, good workmanship & moovements.That smooth sweeping second hand is truly mesmerizing！
Great video!
Nice video like always, Mr Gary. I think that you just forgot mentioning a breve explanation about lift angle so we can expect an accurate amplitude on the movement health. Thank you and regards!
I pretty much do the same thing.
One thing very important while adjusting both lever A & B. DO NOT TOUCH THE STUDS ON THEM. Those brass looking "bolts" things on each lever arm. Too technical to explain. But, they are super sensitive and can totally throw off your readings and near impossible to recover unless you know exactly how to readjust them.
Why cant we use the stud to adjust it if we have a timegrapher? Also can the timegrapher app (watch accuracy meter) on android be trusted?
@stig585 just don't push on the stud as it will throw off the readings. Use the lever only. Go ahead and try the stud if you want to learn the hard way why not
@@khronokraze can you please elaborate why not? I have already done so and i guess my bit error went from 0.2 to 0.6. Not sure if i caused any irreversible damage
Do you mean if I touch this yellow thing it can get loose, wiggle in the fitting when arm moves and because of that change regulation randomly on its own?
I usually touch the yellow thing, seems easier not to touch the spring that way. And I noticed 2 watches started to have inconsistent daily average, like+5 one day and -4 the other while wearing more or less the same way. But I thought it was just random bad luck of mass produced nh35.
Slight correction on words and terms I used in my initial comment(s).
There is a stud arm which controls the beat error and regulator arm which controls the rate. What I should have said about those yellow brass components in either is that they should be called pins. They twist and turn to help adjust and control the regulation. But, they are very sensitive and require a special tool to turn them and you really need a very good macro lens to view the pin from underneath to see how the pin is adjusting for a spacing around the spring.
Too technical for me to explain thoroughly.
I would suggest looking at videos regarding etachron regulation or adjustment. Seeing what it does and how tricky it is to work with may better illustrate why you don't want to mess with it unless u have the proper tools to correct if accidentally moved.
Great video, thank you Gary 😎
I have found that some movements like being on .1 or .2 beat error. it depends on the specimen and the movement model itself. also i like stting my watches between 0 and +4.
you are supposed to time and adjust them 30 minutes after a full wound, to let the mainspring relax a little bit.
Can I please ask a question, Is it okay to adjust the movement whilst the mainspring is in motion.
@@boydjohnson7393fully wind the watch wait 30min then start regulating otherwise you will not see your rate back in real life.
Excellent job! But I would suggest to use a wooden toothpick (that's what use) or a plastic stick instead of a metal screwdriver, you know: magnetism
In my first adjustment attempts I used toothpicks and ended up with wood particles finding their way between the dial and the crystal. From that point on I use a metal tool which main purpose is pushing out push pins from bracelets.
One thing I recommend doing is making sure you’re not looking at your work area from the top but rather from a “parallel” position. This way you have the depth and distance in check (as much as you can with how tiny those things are) and you’re less likely to miss the adjustement leavers and stick the watch right in its beating heart.
Indeed! Job's a goodin'!
I need to do this to a number of watches of mine.
Q. Can you do a comparison between a phone app which does this and this timegrapher. I'm into watch modding, but reluctant to get a timegrapher, if I can just use an app.
I want to make a small comment on the beaterror regulation and it affecting rate, this happens because the balance spring is not following the regulator curve so it's touching one of the pins for rate regulation. This will make the balance spring touch it more heavily on 1 side especially with high amplitude and affect rate when you try to get beat error to 0. I know seiko mass produces their movements but they are really lazy setting their tolerance really high so they can get away with this.
good job!
Amazing ! ♥
How much do you torque the case back up when finished?
Lift angle is wrong. Should be 53deg.
I can't tell you how many hours I have spent doing that. A Sellita just has a screw, and it takes seconds, what's more the beat error is always OK with that movement. NH movements are fine when the regulation is good, but you never know what your going to get
It's hard to remember which lever is for adjusting time and which for beat error. Any tips?
I just move one and see what changes
What if the amplitude is low Gary is this when you look to do a movement swap or service?
Should it need regulating in the first place?
I thought people said that the difference between the 4r35 that Seiko has and the NH35 everyone else gets is the accuracy. So thats not true, is it?
I try to get them about 5 sec/day fast. I have a samurai that needs regulation badly, about 30 sec/day slow.
before you get to deep into trying to regulate a movement, check it ain't magnetised first.
Why doesnt it come from the manufacturer that way?
It's Seiko ! 😛
In your title you put an apostrophe in Seikos. There's no apostrophe in a plural.
No one cares what watch you wear except you. So as the man says, take your time. Buy what you like. Enjoy life.MAMACOO
One should not have to do this on a new watch,
Abuse of the apostrophe in the title.