I'm new to relays, and was stuck on my project... until you said "if it doesn't have 87 & 87 on the relay, it's not the same as 87 & 87a" or something close to that. THANK YOU, all works good now.
This vid really helped me on wiring keyless entry on my 89 f250. The wire colors are different but the key is to test the wiring using the drivers lock/unlock switch. Thank's
The alarm I installed on my 99 XJ cherokee is slowly draining the battery being connected direct to those wires. So I realized I'll need a relay on each since when I disconnect them the drain is gone. But found some clowns diagram online which fried my door switch. While I was wiring it up I felt like it was wrong, but it's been years since I messed with relays. The way yours is wired is precisely how mine is. It's neg at rest and the trigger gives a positive which locks. Couldn't remember how to keep it Neg at rest and feed it a positive without causing problems. This worked, thank you!
@@luvdady So just because you made no sense in your comment and now you are trying desperately to find something to get at me. You are failing miserably.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 nahhhh you just need to show exactly how clearly labeled the package was.. Yeah chicken 🐔 little your sky is clearly falling.. Yeah I explained myself mr expert...
also brad my vw t4 drivers door only had 2 wires connected to door actuator.it was working ok central locking till recently.alarm guy fitted alarm year ago.but just alarm activates but no locking.checked all fuses ok.there is supposed to be central lock control unit in t4 but never found it.so if I use 2 relays to my new alarm hoping will work.may keep other alarm to arm ignition.that be ok you think?steve
Man I'm so close but so far! I'm doing two things different than you but I think they are correct for my set up. My Prestige keyless entry system says its a negative pulse switch and I'm working in the drivers door panel because the wires are much longer anyway...so I have constant 12v off the black/white going to 87 jumped over to the second relays 87 and also jumped to both the 86's. Then I have cut the pink/yellow and have it on 87a and 30 on one relay and cut the pink/green and have it on 87a and 30 on the other relay. Then I have the negative lock trigger wire going to 85 on my lock relay (pink and yellow) and have negative unlock trigger going to 85 on my unlock relay (pink and green). Locks function normally with the switch in the door but my constant 12v fuse pops off the black and white wire when I hit the remote lock or unlock switch!
GOT IT WORKING!!! When I cut the pink/yellow and pink/green I connected them incorrectly to the relay. Make sure the end going to the motors is on 30 and the end coming from the switch is on 87a.
@@garrettbrittle1428 dude 2 years later I just want to thank you for actually posting this, mine also had negative triggers and no diagrams were making sense. I really appreciate you coming back and commenting this man you’re awesome, thank you sooooo freaking much. It’s people like you who make the world go round.
I wired everything like you did and the locking sequence works perfectly how it should but the unlock blows the 15amp fuse I have hooked to the 12v constant every time I try to click the button. Do you know how to fix this?
I know it’s an old question but for someone who has the same question, the answer is Yes, through the relays. If you just tap into the wires you’ll burn fuses or worse
are you working on the passenger side panel? and what year and model of ford do you have? I've been trying to hook up my docooler keyless entry from Amazon for about a month. would really appreciate it if i could get help with my issues.
Yeah the ""double 87"" is basically for fog lights etc... Where you're going to eliminate headaches for the 2 sets of lights. Yet creating chaos and bs packages
@@luvdady Not even close to being self explanatory. WTF does "chaos and bs packages" have to do with relays? "If you understand what a relay is..." I have plenty of understanding what a relay is but what does that have anything to do with relays? If you took one second to look at my CH you would see I plenty of knowledge of relays and spent years making things with them and using them yet never in my whole life have ever seen "chaos and bs packages" said, written or mentioned about relays. So Again. "Yet creating chaos and bs packages" What?
@@luvdady Yeah I thought so. You are WE TODD DID. That has nothing to do with relays or having knowledge about them That is product merchandising and advertising issue. And that pertains to EVERY product out on the market. Nothing to do with relays themselves. You can stop trying so hard to make your nonsense comment fit.
4:40 WTF are you talking about "Passing it off as" They are not passing off anything. You just don't know what they are for. Don't criticizes anything when your own ignorance is the problem. Those are SINGLE THROW relays. And they have purpose. Don't get all accusing them of being "geto" (geto wiring calling others geto, funny.) when you don't know that. Just because you didn't read the package.
Dear crybaby please give us a visual context of where on the package it specifically says NOT A BOSCH 5PIN RELAY ... Yeah 👀 sounds like jealously over your inadequate crimping skills pal..
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm new to relays, and was stuck on my project... until you said "if it doesn't have 87 & 87 on the relay, it's not the same as 87 & 87a" or something close to that. THANK YOU, all works good now.
This vid really helped me on wiring keyless entry on my 89 f250. The wire colors are different but the key is to test the wiring using the drivers lock/unlock switch. Thank's
Glad you figured it out
The alarm I installed on my 99 XJ cherokee is slowly draining the battery being connected direct to those wires. So I realized I'll need a relay on each since when I disconnect them the drain is gone. But found some clowns diagram online which fried my door switch. While I was wiring it up I felt like it was wrong, but it's been years since I messed with relays.
The way yours is wired is precisely how mine is. It's neg at rest and the trigger gives a positive which locks. Couldn't remember how to keep it Neg at rest and feed it a positive without causing problems. This worked, thank you!
Glad you got it figured out!!
Sounds like you are the clown for not verifying.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 lmao 🤣 yeah don't you got chickens in need of assistance 🤣
@@luvdady So just because you made no sense in your comment and now you are trying desperately to find something to get at me. You are failing miserably.
@@AztecWarrior69_69 nahhhh you just need to show exactly how clearly labeled the package was..
Yeah chicken 🐔 little your sky is clearly falling..
Yeah I explained myself mr expert...
also brad my vw t4 drivers door only had 2 wires connected to door actuator.it was working ok central locking till recently.alarm guy fitted alarm year ago.but just alarm activates but no locking.checked all fuses ok.there is supposed to be central lock control unit in t4 but never found it.so if I use 2 relays to my new alarm hoping will work.may keep other alarm to arm ignition.that be ok you think?steve
That did the trick. Thank you sir
Happy to help
So in this video are u converting positive to negative or negative to positive ?
Man I'm so close but so far! I'm doing two things different than you but I think they are correct for my set up. My Prestige keyless entry system says its a negative pulse switch and I'm working in the drivers door panel because the wires are much longer anyway...so I have constant 12v off the black/white going to 87 jumped over to the second relays 87 and also jumped to both the 86's. Then I have cut the pink/yellow and have it on 87a and 30 on one relay and cut the pink/green and have it on 87a and 30 on the other relay. Then I have the negative lock trigger wire going to 85 on my lock relay (pink and yellow) and have negative unlock trigger going to 85 on my unlock relay (pink and green). Locks function normally with the switch in the door but my constant 12v fuse pops off the black and white wire when I hit the remote lock or unlock switch!
GOT IT WORKING!!! When I cut the pink/yellow and pink/green I connected them incorrectly to the relay. Make sure the end going to the motors is on 30 and the end coming from the switch is on 87a.
@@garrettbrittle1428 dude 2 years later I just want to thank you for actually posting this, mine also had negative triggers and no diagrams were making sense. I really appreciate you coming back and commenting this man you’re awesome, thank you sooooo freaking much. It’s people like you who make the world go round.
@@leozavaroff9055 hell yea brother!
I wired everything like you did and the locking sequence works perfectly how it should but the unlock blows the 15amp fuse I have hooked to the 12v constant every time I try to click the button. Do you know how to fix this?
Run a 12v source from the battery to the relay instead and fuse it with a 30amp fuse should help with that
Please explain cantertruck doorlock wiring repair setting
Don't ask this guy. He doesn't know what he is talking about.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but interrupting the wire means running the wire through the relay? I cannot just tap into the wires?
I know it’s an old question but for someone who has the same question, the answer is Yes, through the relays. If you just tap into the wires you’ll burn fuses or worse
are you working on the passenger side panel? and what year and model of ford do you have?
I've been trying to hook up my docooler keyless entry from Amazon for about a month.
would really appreciate it if i could get help with my issues.
i have a 1995 f150. it says mine is. reverse polarity.
1994 xtl and the wiring should be the same for all trucks of that generation
What if my alarm has a negative pulse
Most alarm systems will allow you to switch it, if not you can just hook the wire to 85 or 86 and then 12v fused + power to the other one (85 or 86).
Yeah the ""double 87"" is basically for fog lights etc...
Where you're going to eliminate headaches for the 2 sets of lights.
Yet creating chaos and bs packages
"Yet creating chaos and bs packages" What?
Pretty self explanatory..
If you understand what a relay is...
@AztecWarrior69
@@luvdady Not even close to being self explanatory. WTF does "chaos and bs packages" have to do with relays?
"If you understand what a relay is..."
I have plenty of understanding what a relay is but what does that have anything to do with relays?
If you took one second to look at my CH you would see I plenty of knowledge of relays and spent years making things with them and using them yet never in my whole life have ever seen "chaos and bs packages" said, written or mentioned about relays.
So Again.
"Yet creating chaos and bs packages" What?
@@AztecWarrior69_69 yeah than you should have a complete understanding of what is going on with the problem of clear product labels...
Clown 🤡 shoes..
@@luvdady Yeah I thought so. You are WE TODD DID. That has nothing to do with relays or having knowledge about them That is product merchandising and advertising issue. And that pertains to EVERY product out on the market. Nothing to do with relays themselves.
You can stop trying so hard to make your nonsense comment fit.
4:40 WTF are you talking about "Passing it off as" They are not passing off anything. You just don't know what they are for. Don't criticizes anything when your own ignorance is the problem.
Those are SINGLE THROW relays. And they have purpose. Don't get all accusing them of being "geto" (geto wiring calling others geto, funny.) when you don't know that. Just because you didn't read the package.
Dear crybaby please give us a visual context of where on the package it specifically says NOT A BOSCH 5PIN RELAY ...
Yeah 👀 sounds like jealously over your inadequate crimping skills pal..
Need to up grad ur wire terminals but other than that everything looks good
hunh ??? lol
Didnt work