Hey cory, i have a Question would it be an Idea to Make Bio kits (Bio Filter material, Bacteria etc.) And starter medic kits So its easier for people that are startes to Find out what they need For serten Things like Standard treatment stuff for Fish sicknesses etc. (Btw sorry for my bad english 😅 Im dutch(
As a retired electronics engineer, I can tell you the reason heaters fail is because they are designed wrong. With the correct design, the heater can last decades. It really wouldn't cost that much more to do it right. The current design hooks up the heating elements directly to the mains (Constant Voltage Source). They need to design it so the heating elements connect to a Constant Current Source. That way the heater can turn on and off thousands of times a day without the destructive current surges through the heating elements when it turns on. If the heater detects a low flow condition the electronics can throttle back the current to the heating elements. Another design flaw of most heaters is the electronics are in the same tube that the heating elements are, subjecting the electronics to high temperatures. High heat is the enemy of electronics. The designs that use a separate controller out side of the tank are much better.
Couldn't agree more and the heater manufacturers know this too. That's why they will never implement such a design because then they couldn't sell you another one when their flawed design fails. I'm not telling you anything you dont already know ;)
How long does a tmperature sensor last when seperated from teh heat source? I have one of the rare filters with a seperated system like you suggest, but the temperature sensor broke (physical force). I think it is a pt100 because these seem to be very common and I will replace it with such a sensor.
I believe the titanium heaters are designed this way. The only problem I've had with them is the temp probes going bad. But at the same time I've had old glass heaters last over 15 years.
They can easily make a better heater, seriously it's 2021, they have electric cars that go 600 miles. It's all about cheap Chinese manufacturing and forced obsolescence.
Cory, one thing that differentiates your videos from others I watch on the hobby, is that after watching yours I end up making changes to my tanks. Thank you very much. You make a difference.
The fact he educated his audience instead of pushing products is freshing plus the products he makes he's tested himself to be to a standard which he approves of
A warning to everyone who keep large fish concerning heaters. I had a 75 gallon tank with two Oscars, and as anyone who has kept Oscars know they can be rowdy fish. I went to feed them one day and noticed something shiny in the bottom of the tank. Reached in to take it out and it was the glass case from the heater. I immediately went to remove the remains of the heater from the tank, but it wasn't there. I found it lying behind the tank on the wooden tank stand, it had been there, still running, and had burnt the wood, I mean a serious deep charred spot. I'm just lucky my house didn't catch fire. So anyone with large fish capable of doing this beware, take precautions to avoid this happening. Myself, I quit using heaters altogether.
@@seane1516 Appreciate it, that was years ago however. I only have small fish now. I love Oscars but I got tired of not being able to have plants or much decoration in my tank. Plus, mine lived like 15 years, that was a long time with a bare tank.
Can you tell me how you keep your tanks warm without a heater? They do give me a lot of anxiety. But if I ever forget to plug them in after a water change, my water can go down to 62!
I'd love to see a heater developed by Aquatium Co-OP. The sponge filters you have are great, I'd imagine anything you guys produce would be cost effective and well made.
Tbh sponge filters are almost failproof and definitely dropshipped from China but yes, Cory would do great with sales of a heater of his own with his branding behind it
@@lukas______ Not too fast. My last sponge filter I purchased had great bubbles and air flow, but would not suck in anything. I replace it with a CoOp and voila!
Problem is, you'd need to re-invent the wheel on these or find existing things to combine into one thing... that are already manufactured. They'd just end up selling off brand stuff.
Way back in College I worked for an aquarium leasing/maintenance outfit. They always ran two heaters of different wattage. The lower-wattage heater did the bulk of the work. The higher-wattage heater was set a degree lower, so it only kicked on as supplement/backup. Tank being a degree under norm, indicated primary heater failure. Long-term strategy, but I worked on many 15-20yo aquariums with even glass catfish that old living in 'em, so I always run tandem heaters. If one should fail, Murphy's Law says it's gonna happen when I'm on vacation. Edit: I've never had a heater stick on since I was a kid with a cheapo Penn-Plax, lol.
14:45 Having worked at, and owned, aquarium leasing/maintenance businesses, the last thing we want is to charge a customer for *any* failed part. Different economics from an aquarium store entirely. When I liquidated, I kept my heaters, I have a bunch of green ebo's and those little brown ones I can't think of the brand, but never failed either. Pry 'em from my cold, dead fingers lol.
So, I get the whole turning the heater at a 45 degree angle, but why not go full horizontal? Is there a reason why you didn't recommend turning the heater on its side if at all possible?
"Retain as much heat as you can first" was the approach I've applied to my aquarium, which is currently in my basement. My basement is only semi-finished, so only semi-insulated. At least it's heated. So to keep as much heat as possible, the outside back and one end are covered with styrofoam sheets, and I usually have towels laying on top of my lid (which doubles to keep dust out). The heating I use is an under-gravel heating cable.
Nice job with the explanation here Cory. It would definitely be nice to have a heater with a heating curve, instead of a hard-set temperature to stick to.
My personal experience is that once i started going with Eheim (Jäger) i haven't had a failed heater for over 10 years. They are all still going strong. Previously i had broken heaters every year.
Mike Keough As a kid I only had one heater last at least 15 years when I had my freshwater aquarium. That was back in the 90s. Haven’t had an aquarium in quite some time so don’t know how durable modern heaters are
@@scottl5910 Yeah I've wondered if why people are seemingly having so many issues are the materials being used or the way they are being assembled now vs 30 years ago. Sometimes there can be such a thing as too much "tech" or other bells and whistles. I'd honestly be super leery of purchasing a heater with a digital readout. I've always just used basic wand style heaters complete with power cord and temperature dial. Definitely something to be said for nano tanks in that regard. My 2.5gal and my 5gal tanks I had 25 years ago had no heaters. Just kept them in climate controlled rooms. Those were some great little experiment tanks.
I have two small heaters in my 40 gl. Not by choice, but because I upgraded my tank to a bigger size and I used the heaters from the two smaller tanks. Now I find out that it is a good idea.
That's an interesting idea, I'm assuming that streams even in the tropics cool down over night, so you could even turn the heater off for a while at night....
You have made a good point there even if it was tong in cheek. I have a selection of heaters from some cheap ones to more expensive and I have not had any trouble. It is physical and thermal handling. Handle gently and give them chance to cool also any crud like Cory was referring to get it off with a scourer as this will cause a hot spot and weaken the stress the glass.
@@SuperRoverboy not that often but since I've about 70ish tanks in my shop I handle alot of heaters and accidents happen 😁 I mostly use and sell aqua nova heaters since their selling price is pretty much what a jäger heater costs to stock..
Be careful if the manufacturer Does not warranty the heater that long, your looking at a fire hazard, hazard to your tank, fluctuations in temperature can harm fish sensitive to temperature change. Please for the sake of the hobbie, your life, the life of your fish. Get a new heater!!!!!! Immediately. Test your tank water with more than one thermometer. Check digital against glass thermometer. Always have a way to verify your numbers. Also Never assume a heater is good, always have. A back up waiting to throw in the tank. Check to see if you are having fluctuations In temp with that old heater your using, if you care about your fish, that are living breathing ANIMALS, stop treating them like there a Peasant, they are as important as our cats or dogs.
it would be interesting to know the day/night temp fluctuations where the fish are found locally. It would probably differ between fish found in large lakes vs streams/rivers. I don't think multiple cycles of heating and cooling during the day is the answer, but being able to set a day and night target temperature to get one nice temperature ramp up during the day and cool down during the night should be the goal. This would probably only be feasible using a heater attached to a variable wattage controller. Assuming proper heater use (located in higher flow area, placed at 45 deg, etc), the large number of variables (tank size, ambient temperature, target temperatures, etc) would necessitate developing a complex heating algorithm or ultimately an AI algorithm to control temperature to achieve previous stated goal. In other words, ultimately a computer controlled device. As far as safety is concerned, on any tank with livestock i wouldn't risk using a heater without a thermostat. Additionally, if I had a really rare/endangered/extinct in the wild species, I would probably go to the extreme of DIY'ing a heat exchanger system that would physically isolate the heated water from the tank water, to prevent heater ruptures from possibly contaminating the tank and killing livestock. Interesting topic. Fluke makes temperature data loggers that would allow accurate data gathering. That would be my first step.
heaters hmmm, never had one in my tropical fresh water fish aquarium 29 gallon, but lots of live plants! heater tho i want one but live in NC Charlotte.. and its hot! hot i mean the water not room, room 78 water 82 sometimes summer 85 water temp boiling right lol nah never ick nor death just like the natural environment.GO LIVE PLANTS! feed ALL my fish once a day, never water changes,filter clean once a month if that, 7 years and the test of my water is outstanding good only have 8,Xiphophorus, 5 Callichthyidae. AQUARIUM CO-OP, you are speaking the truth i would take 110% of your judgment! had Birth on both side of fish and doing good never separate the Live-bearers baby fish from the aquarium nor the eggs of the corry. have, just have been giving them to trustworthy friends that know about my baby's.
wish i lived in a warm country so i wouldnt need to use one during the long winters (Sweden) not fun to buy 300W Eheims that cost 45$ and they break after a year. Been lucky once when i found my 720L Malawi aquarium with rare WC MC/OB fish worth thousands of $. And the water temp was 35C. thats 10C above what they usually have.
Good discussion. I use heater controllers on all my tanks and set with a variance of +/- 2 degrees Fahrenheit. Less on/off cycles. Also use smaller than recommended heaters on most tanks and they heat just fine. 25w on 10 gal, 50 watt on 20 gal, etc. I’ve had 5 of the cobalt neo-therm heaters and all but one has failed.
Aquarium Co-Op Cory, I purchased two when they first came out (2014?). They both failed and were replaced by Cobalt in 2016 or 2017 before the warranty expired. I had also purchased an additional Neo-therm. The new heater and the two replacements were acquired after Cobalt “fixed” the issue which caused early production heaters to explode/crack. Only have one still working. Most of them failed by sticking “On”. Only one had a cracked housing.
There has been much talk about water flow over heaters in this and other videos by you. Could you please talk about good and bad ways to get that flow? In my case, I just setup a heater horizontally with a long air stone underneath it. Is this ok? Is there any way that the constant air bubbles could hurt the heater? Is this a good way to assure good flow? Thank you.
I'm not sure that can be quantified without lots of testing. Surely it's better then having no flow. However depending on how big the bubbles are, how long the air stone is, and how much air is actually going through would determine the current of the water. Also over time air stones typically change flows due to clogging. While this is true with filtration also, filters tend to get serviced where most people never service an air stone.
No they don't I actually raised my fantail goldfish named Orange Crush (no joke) and kept his tank water between 65-72*F He's still alive and lives w/a good friend I. the state of Oregon due to the fact I could take him to the East coast 🐟🍊☁️
Any thoughts on heaters for Bettas? I bought and installed one but something in my gut keeps preventing me from plugging it in. for starters I see him sitting on it all the time, plus all the horror stories of them exploding... I use a reptile lamp to heat it to 80ish degrees during the day, but my room is always pretty warm anyway. He is a happy and active fish so I feel like I'm doing alright?
Hey, all those bubbles are taking heated air that is being heated with our wallets out into the cooler room. Why not run a air hose [ single, double or 1/4 inch ] from the pump inlet to the gap between the top of the water and the lid, a 90 degree elbow would make a snug fit and it shouldn't harm the pump because the diaphragm and the rest of what the air comes in contact with is all non-corrosive/plastic. You still need a bit of air change, but at the moment ALL the air is taking heat and water vapor with it, we are literally pumping heat out of the tank/s.
Hmmm, so this is another tick for a 1'' think plywood aquarium with just a glass front due to the high thermal properties AND lids that are as thick and sealed as possible.
You’ve been reading my rants! (Maybe) I love these “how to properly use your equipment” videos. I always put my heaters (which are E. Jager) either next to the filter intake or output, horizontal and below water change level. And set them to winter water temps for the fishes natural habitat. (Shrimp don’t need a heater for ex) Ha ha ha... I use a lot of 50w & 75w heaters in the house and don’t go to 100w except for the garage tanks with bigger tanks (unheated garage). I also add rigid insulation to the back of my tanks.
When i experimented with insulating tanks, I find it didn't help as much as I would have liked. A glass top did help a lot though. Eliminating super cold air near the tanks helps as well.
What happens if the thermostat is faulty... lol but, I agree, have mine on thermostat also along with thermometers also. In 120 have 4 and in 75 have 3 and 150 have 5. All the lil ones, 55 and delow I have 3 to 2. What we won't do for our fishy family!! Lol
thermostats are rubbish for heat control, either full on or fully off, this puts strain on everything else but its the cheapest solution for the manufacturer, a PID controller like used in incubaters is far more accurate and coupled to an ssr relay no moving parts, its whats in your cruise control in your car, imagin trying to hold 50 in your car using only full throttle or no throttle, almos imposible. thats just what a thermostat does.
awesome video...i live in fear of my heaters malfunctioning and boiling my fish. I have 3 betta tanks...a 3 gallon, 9 gallon and 5 gallon...the 9 gallon has a 50watt eheim jager but the 5 and 3 i want better heaters for...what wattage would you suggest for the 3 and the 5 and what temp should i set at, given that you recommend setting it lower than the magic number 78 for bettas? want to avoid constant cycling on and off!
I've always put the heater right next to the output of my canister filter. Just makes sense to push the warmer water to the side that doesnt have a heater. Great information for people in the hobby struggling to manage proper water.
Use an external/separate thermostat to regulate the temperature and set the internal thermostat a couple of degrees higher, then you have a failsafe if it should get stuck and you won't boil your fish. I make mine myself and have WiFi access and monitoring on them, not that hard to do if you got some knowledge in electronics.
While this is true, most saltwater hobbyists have problems with too much heat. This is why external water pumps exist, methods on how to make a screen mesh top etc. I still believe it to be the same core problem just from the other side instead of being too cold, it's too hot and heat management is the key.
GREAT topic Cory!!!!!! I cant seem to find a heater guard anywhere......my plecosouras loves sitting next to the heater. the other day, i burnt myself while cleaning. so, the plecosouras is cooking himself. I say plecosouras because he/she is 12 inches long!!! and 2 years ago, he/she was only 1.5 inches long!!!! I may have to 3d print a heater guard. Thank you for the idea.... and again.. great topic!!!
My heater doesn't have any buttons or temp guide so i went to my local pet store and got that same heater. The fish lady said you should get one every few years. Is this true??
Love what you guys bring to the hobby! You remind me of brs but for fresh water. Temp controllers and exchangeable parts are the future of heaters with a way to cut power if temp exceeds a certain value.
i have a 9-year-old fully submersed heater at 45 degrees angle and it's still working fine. I have a top on the tank as described and heater not cranked
I use an Inkbird thermostat with my heater. Stops the fish getting cooked if the heater malfunctions and allows me to set a temperature range so the heater is not always turning on and off.
Thanks for the tips, I actually tipped mine because I noticed pet stores did this so I copied it, love your videos, lean a lot for a beginner, I'm just disappointed I cant buy anything from Aquarium Co Op, you don't mail to Canada. Keep up with these great shows. Thanks again.
As someone from the reptile keeping hobby just getting into keeping Australian red claw I’m so thankful for having a few different types of thermostats meant for heat mats/cables/lights etc, makes life 10 times easier. They can be a bit pricey though that’s the only problem.
i got heaters from china cost me PKR500 so $3.5 it has been working for 3 years now...1) keep them vertical 2) don't let them touch sand /substrate 3) keep at moderate setting... .
Best fish keeping advice on UA-cam, as always. Practical, common sense, honest. If everyone ran their business like Cory the world would be such a nicer and easier place.
I have used 2 aqua top 50w heaters for about 2 years now in 10 gallon tanks with no issues even for a cheap heater. I put a 30gallon tank together on a tight budget and put in a 100w heater I got for 6 dollars which lasted about a year and half surprisingly until it got stuck on. Caught it before any fish issues occurred. I went to replace it and figured the 2 other aqua top heaters are working still I will get one of those as they seemed decent. I decided I was going to order one big enough to heat a 125 gallon as future proofing. I did mount it on a 45 degree angle as it did not fit in the tank stood up. It only lasted 2 months before it stopped heating I chocked it up to just getting lucky on the first 2 heaters but after seeing this I am not sure. Also I am now using one of the 50w heaters in the 30 gallon tank and it heats it just fine in my house. I wish this video was out sooner it might have saved me some grief.
I've got a variety of heaters and I haven't lost one yet (aside from those crappy "Always On" Betta tank ones). Granted, my heaters live beside my filter's outflow, might account for a lot of my "luck"... I love the idea that other commenters have mentioned of putting them on a timer so there is some fluctuation like there is in nature, your other suggestions are certainly going to help me and others out as well.
Wow! This was REAL VALUABLE INFO!! And you did a fine fine job explaining all the ins and outs. I feel like an idiot. Well I'm a control freak. I currently have my heater controller (STC1000) on a 0.5 degree celcius tolerance, and I'm surely going to up it to 1 or even 1.5 degrees celcius after seeing your vid!! I want(ed!!) my tank around 23.5 degrees celcius all the time but it's NUTS if you think about it. Does that happen in nature?? I open the window for fresh air and boom my heater comes on.... I open the radiator to heat the room (building heating so the costs are shared) and I forget to turn it down when I close the window, boom, fan goes on..... because it's on a freaking 0.5 degrees tolerance. **facepalm** THANK YOU! :)
I have a heater running parallel to my spray bar. High flow area and has been running for over ten years. I don't even remember what brand the heater is anymore.
I have 'never' had a heater fail. Used so many through the years and have only ever had them break through my fault.. Mainly through me damaging them myself and once through me accidentally exploding one by pouring cold water over it during a water change. Been fish keeping for over 15 years and at one time had a fish room with more then 10 tanks (all with heaters). Never had one die. I even have a few heaters now that are over 5 years old. I have used cheap no brands and even expensive pro lines. Must be lucky I guess.
somehow I've never had problems with cloudy water except a bacterial bloom and whenever i stir substrate for anything. i dont use carbon anymore and it has been a month- still crystal clear like i could reach in and there isnt any glass- mind you sometimes i get smudges but that is different.
This is so insightful, and great for us newbies. My follow up question is in regards to general running costs of pumps, heaters, coolers etc. Here in the UK bills have gone up by nearly 400%this year, so I just want to gauge that I can afford the running costs longer term. Most UK houses dont have aircon, so I believe the heater at a minimum would be required. But want to do right by the fish, at a cost effective price.any suggestions?
Love your practical examples... I am heating whole fish room instead of single aquariums :) but this was really interesting video. It of course makes sense, but I have never thought about it... :)
Love the honesty and explanation Cory, thats why I buy my stuff from you...Q: Why cant they design a 2 or 3 degree range, seems like a simple fix; way less cycling and less heat build up??
I've had a fluval heater like that one for years when you get "LF" just make sure it's clean, and place it where there is more flow... lol It's a pretty good heater, been going strong for years.
They can make em last forever, same as light bulbs, they were making them too solid then they lasted so long the companies made no money because they never needed replaced, so they dumbed them down. Bunch of bull sht
I've been considering a temperature controller to help with this. Any recommendations on one? I've never seen one in a local store. Anyone tried to recommended one on Amazon?
This may be a dumb question. But, what about two heaters at different areas of the aquarium? Set at the same temperature, like 78 degrees, Would that work?
Wow this is really good food for thought!! My knowledge set is mostly about the biological aspects of fish keeping and I’ve read up a lot about filtration too but my electrical knowledge is pretty lacking. I think electrical is a pretty important aspect of fish keeping that often goes unmentioned. My brother’s roommate knows a ton about mechanical and electrical stuff and he’s been schooling me on the dumb stuff I’ve been doing with extensions cords and outlet expanders for my aquarium set-ups lol. So great category of videos to touch on! Thanks
My heater is inline inside my external filter. Out of sight and very efficient. Its being controlled by a cheap arduino board and temp sensor on the other side of the tank. Kicks on at xx degrees and turns off at xx degrees, so theres a slower on-off cycle.
I have learned a lot from trial and error, and your channel. I've removed heaters from the two aquariums that I have since freshwater tanks don't really need them; as long as your place is heated and a steady room temperature.
If your heaters break, it could be because you let your heater into cool air or water too fast or hot water/air too fast. If you're cleaning your tank, turn your heater off for 30 min if it'll be exposed to air. Don't turn it back on until the new water is fully in and the heater is submerged again and has been in the new water for 20-30 min. New heaters - put it in your tank water OFF, for 30-60 min. Then turn it on... Glass expands in heat, shrinks in cold. Changing temp rapidly WILL break the glass.
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@LightSoundGeometry Analog Electronics exactly. Mine still running as well
Hey cory, i have a Question would it be an Idea to Make Bio kits (Bio Filter material, Bacteria etc.) And starter medic kits So its easier for people that are startes to Find out what they need For serten Things like Standard treatment stuff for Fish sicknesses etc. (Btw sorry for my bad english 😅 Im dutch(
@LightSoundGeometry Analog Electronics I have two. One failed after a few years. The other probably still works but is retired.
Aquarium Co-Op one of your fish in the tank behind you was looking suspicious. Hope it is ok!
so what your saying is. Instead of buying a Bus... I should buy 3 Mini vans?
As a retired electronics engineer, I can
tell you the reason heaters fail is
because they are designed wrong.
With the correct design, the heater can
last decades. It really wouldn't cost
that much more to do it right.
The current design hooks up the heating
elements directly to the mains (Constant
Voltage Source). They need to design it
so the heating elements connect to a
Constant Current Source. That way the
heater can turn on and off thousands of
times a day without the destructive
current surges through the heating
elements when it turns on.
If the heater detects a low flow
condition the electronics can throttle
back the current to the heating
elements.
Another design flaw of most heaters is
the electronics are in the same tube
that the heating elements are,
subjecting the electronics to high
temperatures. High heat is the enemy of
electronics. The designs that use a
separate controller out side of the tank
are much better.
Couldn't agree more and the heater manufacturers know this too. That's why they will never implement such a design because then they couldn't sell you another one when their flawed design fails. I'm not telling you anything you dont already know ;)
How long does a tmperature sensor last when seperated from teh heat source? I have one of the rare filters with a seperated system like you suggest, but the temperature sensor broke (physical force). I think it is a pt100 because these seem to be very common and I will replace it with such a sensor.
I believe the titanium heaters are designed this way. The only problem I've had with them is the temp probes going bad. But at the same time I've had old glass heaters last over 15 years.
Tony Meagher your 2nd paragraph is the #1 reason why they don't make better heaters
@Sweet James agree it's a big long commercial given. All that was needed to explain this is what Tony Meagher wrote.
They can easily make a better heater, seriously it's 2021, they have electric cars that go 600 miles. It's all about cheap Chinese manufacturing and forced obsolescence.
Or it’s about making a heater at a price point that people will actually purchase it.
your right, they want to be able to sell another, so why make one that lasts for ever, same thing they did with light bulbs
Cory, one thing that differentiates your videos from others I watch on the hobby, is that after watching yours I end up making changes to my tanks. Thank you very much. You make a difference.
The fact he educated his audience instead of pushing products is freshing plus the products he makes he's tested himself to be to a standard which he approves of
Mine literally just broke 10 minutes ago wtf why is UA-cam stalking me
The Algorithm knows all o.o
Alexa ..... Stop spying .
Add a sock to the end of your phone to block the camera and mic lol
😅
Damn, I tilted my heater right away and put it near my bubbles for flow. Thanks for the advice!!
Raflm, I put my filter intake tube near the heater to push the water around.
A warning to everyone who keep large fish concerning heaters. I had a 75 gallon tank with two Oscars, and as anyone who has kept Oscars know they can be rowdy fish. I went to feed them one day and noticed something shiny in the bottom of the tank. Reached in to take it out and it was the glass case from the heater. I immediately went to remove the remains of the heater from the tank, but it wasn't there.
I found it lying behind the tank on the wooden tank stand, it had been there, still running, and had burnt the wood, I mean a serious deep charred spot. I'm just lucky my house didn't catch fire. So anyone with large fish capable of doing this beware, take precautions to avoid this happening. Myself, I quit using heaters altogether.
If you want to use a heater in this scenario you'd probably be better off to have your heater in a sump or somewhere outside of the aquarium.
@@merfishsandwich691 If you have that option, yes, but it's not always one people have.
Fluval E series heaters fit your needs I think
@@seane1516 Appreciate it, that was years ago however. I only have small fish now. I love Oscars but I got tired of not being able to have plants or much decoration in my tank. Plus, mine lived like 15 years, that was a long time with a bare tank.
Can you tell me how you keep your tanks warm without a heater? They do give me a lot of anxiety. But if I ever forget to plug them in after a water change, my water can go down to 62!
When will they make a heater that can survive my *KARATE KICKS* ?!
I'd buy 3
Get a titanium heater and it will break your foot!
@@paulsabucchi lol
Are your sumps that large that you practice your karate in them?!? ;-))
“Don’t drive your car like an idiot...”. LOL! Coop needs to develop a heater with range, so less on and off. Love the vid!
All that is required is a separate temperature controller, so you can set the interval however you please
@@paulsabucchi Where would one find such a thing? Link?
Beautiful goldfish tank. I'd happily watch a video of that tank for an hour.
Srsly, I find myself just staring at it during these videos
Hear hear!:)) same here
Same! I have my heart set on some fancy goldfish like those. 😍
I'd love to see a heater developed by Aquatium Co-OP. The sponge filters you have are great, I'd imagine anything you guys produce would be cost effective and well made.
Tbh sponge filters are almost failproof and definitely dropshipped from China but yes, Cory would do great with sales of a heater of his own with his branding behind it
@@lukas______ Not too fast. My last sponge filter I purchased had great bubbles and air flow, but would not suck in anything. I replace it with a CoOp and voila!
Problem is, you'd need to re-invent the wheel on these or find existing things to combine into one thing... that are already manufactured. They'd just end up selling off brand stuff.
Dollar store foam poster board is a secret weapon on the back and some sides of my tank. Don't tell anyone.
Way back in College I worked for an aquarium leasing/maintenance outfit. They always ran two heaters of different wattage. The lower-wattage heater did the bulk of the work. The higher-wattage heater was set a degree lower, so it only kicked on as supplement/backup. Tank being a degree under norm, indicated primary heater failure. Long-term strategy, but I worked on many 15-20yo aquariums with even glass catfish that old living in 'em, so I always run tandem heaters. If one should fail, Murphy's Law says it's gonna happen when I'm on vacation.
Edit: I've never had a heater stick on since I was a kid with a cheapo Penn-Plax, lol.
14:45 Having worked at, and owned, aquarium leasing/maintenance businesses, the last thing we want is to charge a customer for *any* failed part. Different economics from an aquarium store entirely. When I liquidated, I kept my heaters, I have a bunch of green ebo's and those little brown ones I can't think of the brand, but never failed either. Pry 'em from my cold, dead fingers lol.
Cory, you are so good at explaining things! Thank you, I never looked at it that away!
So, I get the whole turning the heater at a 45 degree angle, but why not go full horizontal? Is there a reason why you didn't recommend turning the heater on its side if at all possible?
"Retain as much heat as you can first" was the approach I've applied to my aquarium, which is currently in my basement. My basement is only semi-finished, so only semi-insulated. At least it's heated. So to keep as much heat as possible, the outside back and one end are covered with styrofoam sheets, and I usually have towels laying on top of my lid (which doubles to keep dust out).
The heating I use is an under-gravel heating cable.
I know this video is a few years old but did anyone notice the two fish in the tank struggling to stay upright?
Nice job with the explanation here Cory. It would definitely be nice to have a heater with a heating curve, instead of a hard-set temperature to stick to.
My personal experience is that once i started going with Eheim (Jäger) i haven't had a failed heater for over 10 years. They are all still going strong. Previously i had broken heaters every year.
I've never really had any issues with my heaters. I think the shortest lifespan of any of my heaters has been like 10 years.
Mike Keough As a kid I only had one heater last at least 15 years when I had my freshwater aquarium. That was back in the 90s. Haven’t had an aquarium in quite some time so don’t know how durable modern heaters are
@@scottl5910 Yeah I've wondered if why people are seemingly having so many issues are the materials being used or the way they are being assembled now vs 30 years ago. Sometimes there can be such a thing as too much "tech" or other bells and whistles. I'd honestly be super leery of purchasing a heater with a digital readout. I've always just used basic wand style heaters complete with power cord and temperature dial.
Definitely something to be said for nano tanks in that regard. My 2.5gal and my 5gal tanks I had 25 years ago had no heaters. Just kept them in climate controlled rooms. Those were some great little experiment tanks.
@@spinelessmoderate8715 what type of heaters do you have? Brand & size?
I have two small heaters in my 40 gl. Not by choice, but because I upgraded my tank to a bigger size and I used the heaters from the two smaller tanks. Now I find out that it is a good idea.
I’m really diggin’ the beard!
Could you talk about condensation inside the heater?
Use to have a heater in my tank when I first got it 2 years ago but i'v never used it cause my house is allways warm enough even in the winter
I plug my heater into a timer; temp fluctuates gently over the course of the day and reduces the number of on/off cycles. Fish appear happy.
That's an interesting idea, I'm assuming that streams even in the tropics cool down over night, so you could even turn the heater off for a while at night....
Wow Ima try this thanks
@Huds S alternating on/off every 3-4hrs.
Mine breaks 9/10 times due to dropping them on my concrete floor :P
why are you taking it out of the tank so often? For cleaning?
You have made a good point there even if it was tong in cheek. I have a selection of heaters from some cheap ones to more expensive and I have not had any trouble. It is physical and thermal handling. Handle gently and give them chance to cool also any crud like Cory was referring to get it off with a scourer as this will cause a hot spot and weaken the stress the glass.
Aqueon pro heater is made of some kind of metal and they work well. Never dropped mine but I'm sure they'll survive a fall or two
@@urhma7419 I agree I have 2 of them and they are great. They use electronic thermostat. In the USA look got Cobolt which is calibrated in Fahrenheit.
@@SuperRoverboy not that often but since I've about 70ish tanks in my shop I handle alot of heaters and accidents happen 😁 I mostly use and sell aqua nova heaters since their selling price is pretty much what a jäger heater costs to stock..
I still have a heater from the late 70s I have started using it again for the last 3 years
Be careful if the manufacturer Does not warranty the heater that long, your looking at a fire hazard, hazard to your tank, fluctuations in temperature can harm fish sensitive to temperature change. Please for the sake of the hobbie, your life, the life of your fish. Get a new heater!!!!!! Immediately. Test your tank water with more than one thermometer. Check digital against glass thermometer. Always have a way to verify your numbers. Also Never assume a heater is good, always have. A back up waiting to throw in the tank. Check to see if you are having fluctuations In temp with that old heater your using, if you care about your fish, that are living breathing ANIMALS, stop treating them like there a Peasant, they are as important as our cats or dogs.
it would be interesting to know the day/night temp fluctuations where the fish are found locally. It would probably differ between fish found in large lakes vs streams/rivers. I don't think multiple cycles of heating and cooling during the day is the answer, but being able to set a day and night target temperature to get one nice temperature ramp up during the day and cool down during the night should be the goal. This would probably only be feasible using a heater attached to a variable wattage controller. Assuming proper heater use (located in higher flow area, placed at 45 deg, etc), the large number of variables (tank size, ambient temperature, target temperatures, etc) would necessitate developing a complex heating algorithm or ultimately an AI algorithm to control temperature to achieve previous stated goal. In other words, ultimately a computer controlled device.
As far as safety is concerned, on any tank with livestock i wouldn't risk using a heater without a thermostat. Additionally, if I had a really rare/endangered/extinct in the wild species, I would probably go to the extreme of DIY'ing a heat exchanger system that would physically isolate the heated water from the tank water, to prevent heater ruptures from possibly contaminating the tank and killing livestock.
Interesting topic. Fluke makes temperature data loggers that would allow accurate data gathering. That would be my first step.
heaters hmmm, never had one in my tropical fresh water fish aquarium 29 gallon, but lots of live plants! heater tho i want one but live in NC Charlotte.. and its hot! hot i mean the water not room, room 78 water 82 sometimes summer 85 water temp boiling right lol nah never ick nor death just like the natural environment.GO LIVE PLANTS! feed ALL my fish once a day, never water changes,filter clean once a month if that, 7 years and the test of my water is outstanding good only have 8,Xiphophorus, 5 Callichthyidae. AQUARIUM CO-OP, you are speaking the truth i would take 110% of your judgment! had Birth on both side of fish and doing good never separate the Live-bearers baby fish from the aquarium nor the eggs of the corry. have, just have been giving them to trustworthy friends that know about my baby's.
I don’t know if this is good, but I have a air stone under all my heaters and they tend to last at least 5 to 6 years.
I've had mine 6 years and it hasn't broke and I got it used
wish i lived in a warm country so i wouldnt need to use one during the long winters (Sweden) not fun to buy 300W Eheims that cost 45$ and they break after a year. Been lucky once when i found my 720L Malawi aquarium with rare WC MC/OB fish worth thousands of $. And the water temp was 35C. thats 10C above what they usually have.
Good discussion. I use heater controllers on all my tanks and set with a variance of +/- 2 degrees Fahrenheit. Less on/off cycles. Also use smaller than recommended heaters on most tanks and they heat just fine. 25w on 10 gal, 50 watt on 20 gal, etc. I’ve had 5 of the cobalt neo-therm heaters and all but one has failed.
For some further info for us, what was the purchase date on those cobalt neo therms?
Aquarium Co-Op Cory, I purchased two when they first came out (2014?). They both failed and were replaced by Cobalt in 2016 or 2017 before the warranty expired. I had also purchased an additional Neo-therm. The new heater and the two replacements were acquired after Cobalt “fixed” the issue which caused early production heaters to explode/crack. Only have one still working. Most of them failed by sticking “On”. Only one had a cracked housing.
What about 5 gallon tanks? It's hard to find good quality heater for less than 25 watts.
There has been much talk about water flow over heaters in this and other videos by you. Could you please talk about good and bad ways to get that flow? In my case, I just setup a heater horizontally with a long air stone underneath it. Is this ok? Is there any way that the constant air bubbles could hurt the heater? Is this a good way to assure good flow? Thank you.
I'm not sure that can be quantified without lots of testing. Surely it's better then having no flow. However depending on how big the bubbles are, how long the air stone is, and how much air is actually going through would determine the current of the water. Also over time air stones typically change flows due to clogging. While this is true with filtration also, filters tend to get serviced where most people never service an air stone.
I personally like to put my aqarium headers on the out flow of my canister filter
I put my footers there
I put my headers in the back of the net
The more I watch you and your videos, the more I want to have a glass box pet after a 25-year sabbatical.
The irony of talking about heaters with a cold water tank behind him
His first love is Rainbow fish and they are tropical. He just picked out a cheerful background for today. I love Cory.
Goldfish doesn't need a heater 😂😜
No they don't I actually raised my fantail goldfish named Orange Crush (no joke) and kept his tank water between 65-72*F He's still alive and lives w/a good friend I. the state of Oregon due to the fact I could take him to the East coast 🐟🍊☁️
Couldn't not could
Any thoughts on heaters for Bettas? I bought and installed one but something in my gut keeps preventing me from plugging it in. for starters I see him sitting on it all the time, plus all the horror stories of them exploding... I use a reptile lamp to heat it to 80ish degrees during the day, but my room is always pretty warm anyway. He is a happy and active fish so I feel like I'm doing alright?
Been using aqueon heaters and never had any break on me or give me any problems.
Hey, all those bubbles are taking heated air that is being heated with our wallets out into the cooler room. Why not run a air hose [ single, double or 1/4 inch ] from the pump inlet to the gap between the top of the water and the lid, a 90 degree elbow would make a snug fit and it shouldn't harm the pump because the diaphragm and the rest of what the air comes in contact with is all non-corrosive/plastic. You still need a bit of air change, but at the moment ALL the air is taking heat and water vapor with it, we are literally pumping heat out of the tank/s.
My last heater JUST burned out... And you explained every thing I did wrong. Just fixed my mistakes. Thank you!! :)
Hmmm, so this is another tick for a 1'' think plywood aquarium with just a glass front due to the high thermal properties AND lids that are as thick and sealed as possible.
You’ve been reading my rants! (Maybe) I love these “how to properly use your equipment” videos.
I always put my heaters (which are E. Jager) either next to the filter intake or output, horizontal and below water change level. And set them to winter water temps for the fishes natural habitat. (Shrimp don’t need a heater for ex)
Ha ha ha... I use a lot of 50w & 75w heaters in the house and don’t go to 100w except for the garage tanks with bigger tanks (unheated garage). I also add rigid insulation to the back of my tanks.
When i experimented with insulating tanks, I find it didn't help as much as I would have liked. A glass top did help a lot though. Eliminating super cold air near the tanks helps as well.
heaters don't always fail and they dont always break.,you must be doing something wrong lol. some people are
just terrible with electronics.
I always have my heaters hooked to a thermostat to give me that added piece of mind
What happens if the thermostat is faulty... lol but, I agree, have mine on thermostat also along with thermometers also. In 120 have 4 and in 75 have 3 and 150 have 5. All the lil ones, 55 and delow I have 3 to 2. What we won't do for our fishy family!! Lol
thermostats are rubbish for heat control, either full on or fully off, this puts strain on everything else but its the cheapest solution for the manufacturer, a PID controller like used in incubaters is far more accurate and coupled to an ssr relay no moving parts, its whats in your cruise control in your car, imagin trying to hold 50 in your car using only full throttle or no throttle, almos imposible. thats just what a thermostat does.
@@incubatork Sounds smart but where would such a thing be found that would work with aquarium heaters? Link?
awesome video...i live in fear of my heaters malfunctioning and boiling my fish. I have 3 betta tanks...a 3 gallon, 9 gallon and 5 gallon...the 9 gallon has a 50watt eheim jager but the 5 and 3 i want better heaters for...what wattage would you suggest for the 3 and the 5 and what temp should i set at, given that you recommend setting it lower than the magic number 78 for bettas? want to avoid constant cycling on and off!
I've always put the heater right next to the output of my canister filter. Just makes sense to push the warmer water to the side that doesnt have a heater. Great information for people in the hobby struggling to manage proper water.
I find the temperature gauge on the heaters is totally inaccurate . If I didn't have a thermometer my fish would be cooked .
Use an external/separate thermostat to regulate the temperature and set the internal thermostat a couple of degrees higher, then you have a failsafe if it should get stuck and you won't boil your fish.
I make mine myself and have WiFi access and monitoring on them, not that hard to do if you got some knowledge in electronics.
Wow i do not know it untill you told me
On another hand, their reason why heater need to be precise, when you have a saltwater tank you don't want a lot of deviation.
While this is true, most saltwater hobbyists have problems with too much heat. This is why external water pumps exist, methods on how to make a screen mesh top etc. I still believe it to be the same core problem just from the other side instead of being too cold, it's too hot and heat management is the key.
GREAT topic Cory!!!!!! I cant seem to find a heater guard anywhere......my plecosouras loves sitting next to the heater. the other day, i burnt myself while cleaning. so, the plecosouras is cooking himself. I say plecosouras because he/she is 12 inches long!!! and 2 years ago, he/she was only 1.5 inches long!!!! I may have to 3d print a heater guard. Thank you for the idea.... and again.. great topic!!!
Thank you Incredibly informative - some of the best information on an important subject
My heater doesn't have any buttons or temp guide so i went to my local pet store and got that same heater. The fish lady said you should get one every few years. Is this true??
I have 4 Aqueon “Pro” heaters after 3 years they are all working fine. im pretty happy with that
Thank you easily understood 👍🙂
Love what you guys bring to the hobby! You remind me of brs but for fresh water.
Temp controllers and exchangeable parts are the future of heaters with a way to cut power if temp exceeds a certain value.
it says submersible and there is a line on it. are u suppposed to put electric cord underwater? pakcage didnt say
My Heater is tilted right underneath the intake of my Fluval HOB. That way it sucks the warm water up and spits it out through the tank.
i have a 9-year-old fully submersed heater at 45 degrees angle and it's still working fine. I have a top on the tank as described and heater not cranked
I use an Inkbird thermostat with my heater. Stops the fish getting cooked if the heater malfunctions and allows me to set a temperature range so the heater is not always turning on and off.
Great advice, Ink bird can save fish!
Thanks for the tips, I actually tipped mine because I noticed pet stores did this so I copied it, love your videos, lean a lot for a beginner, I'm just disappointed I cant buy anything from Aquarium Co Op, you don't mail to Canada. Keep up with these great shows. Thanks again.
It’s a good thumbnail but not nearly as good as the Ich video with the ocellatus!
Juradic just got some Ick X and the directions are tiny and not readable. Can someone help me with directions.
www.hikariusa.com/wp/solutions/healthaid/ich-x/
As someone from the reptile keeping hobby just getting into keeping Australian red claw I’m so thankful for having a few different types of thermostats meant for heat mats/cables/lights etc, makes life 10 times easier. They can be a bit pricey though that’s the only problem.
Cory , do you have any info or experience with in-line heaters ?
i got heaters from china cost me PKR500 so $3.5 it has been working for 3 years now...1) keep them vertical
2) don't let them touch sand /substrate
3) keep at moderate setting... .
Best fish keeping advice on UA-cam, as always. Practical, common sense, honest. If everyone ran their business like Cory the world would be such a nicer and easier place.
I have used 2 aqua top 50w heaters for about 2 years now in 10 gallon tanks with no issues even for a cheap heater. I put a 30gallon tank together on a tight budget and put in a 100w heater I got for 6 dollars which lasted about a year and half surprisingly until it got stuck on. Caught it before any fish issues occurred. I went to replace it and figured the 2 other aqua top heaters are working still I will get one of those as they seemed decent. I decided I was going to order one big enough to heat a 125 gallon as future proofing. I did mount it on a 45 degree angle as it did not fit in the tank stood up. It only lasted 2 months before it stopped heating I chocked it up to just getting lucky on the first 2 heaters but after seeing this I am not sure. Also I am now using one of the 50w heaters in the 30 gallon tank and it heats it just fine in my house. I wish this video was out sooner it might have saved me some grief.
I've got a variety of heaters and I haven't lost one yet (aside from those crappy "Always On" Betta tank ones). Granted, my heaters live beside my filter's outflow, might account for a lot of my "luck"...
I love the idea that other commenters have mentioned of putting them on a timer so there is some fluctuation like there is in nature, your other suggestions are certainly going to help me and others out as well.
I wish this video was up 2 days ago before i ordered a 300w fluval..
AWESOME video! Great points and alot of good info that all fishkeepers need to know. Saving fish lives and fishkeepers money one video at a time 😊
Wow! This was REAL VALUABLE INFO!! And you did a fine fine job explaining all the ins and outs.
I feel like an idiot. Well I'm a control freak.
I currently have my heater controller (STC1000) on a 0.5 degree celcius tolerance, and I'm surely going to up it to 1 or even 1.5 degrees celcius after seeing your vid!!
I want(ed!!) my tank around 23.5 degrees celcius all the time but it's NUTS if you think about it. Does that happen in nature??
I open the window for fresh air and boom my heater comes on.... I open the radiator to heat the room (building heating so the costs are shared) and I forget to turn it down when I close the window, boom, fan goes on..... because it's on a freaking 0.5 degrees tolerance.
**facepalm**
THANK YOU! :)
Excellent video. You brought up great points I've never considered and they make a lot of sense. Thanks. 👍
I have a heater running parallel to my spray bar. High flow area and has been running for over ten years. I don't even remember what brand the heater is anymore.
How many gallons is that tank behind you? Its gorgeous! would love to get one like that
800
And cost $15,000.00 Better start saving. . .
@@michaellindsey1543 😂
That why you do not keep a fish tank by a window or where there is a draft.
I have an aquarium heater from 1973 and it works perfect ..it's coil wires are thick ..all the new ones are made delicate and fragile
I'd love to see a pic or video of that, sounds awesome.
Impressive. What brand is it?
I have 'never' had a heater fail. Used so many through the years and have only ever had them break through my fault.. Mainly through me damaging them myself and once through me accidentally exploding one by pouring cold water over it during a water change.
Been fish keeping for over 15 years and at one time had a fish room with more then 10 tanks (all with heaters). Never had one die. I even have a few heaters now that are over 5 years old. I have used cheap no brands and even expensive pro lines.
Must be lucky I guess.
Well my water is super cloudy after watching his tank in the background😢
somehow I've never had problems with cloudy water except a bacterial bloom and whenever i stir substrate for anything. i dont use carbon anymore and it has been a month- still crystal clear like i could reach in and there isnt any glass- mind you sometimes i get smudges but that is different.
This can be fixed by adding another filter or doing more water changes
This is so insightful, and great for us newbies. My follow up question is in regards to general running costs of pumps, heaters, coolers etc. Here in the UK bills have gone up by nearly 400%this year, so I just want to gauge that I can afford the running costs longer term. Most UK houses dont have aircon, so I believe the heater at a minimum would be required. But want to do right by the fish, at a cost effective price.any suggestions?
Same.
Mine just boiled my beautiful guppies. I went to bed, all was fine. Morning time water way over 100 f and guppies upside down.
SIP 😔
Sorry 😪
This is why I don't use heaters
(Much safer to clean the tank /
do water changes instead) 🐟
Titanium heaters are WAY better then glass ones
That's why I only keep cold water fish. Not just saving all the troubles, but saving a lot in electric bill.
I keep koi pleco goldfish and platys only reason i have a heather is for my gourami
Love your practical examples... I am heating whole fish room instead of single aquariums :) but this was really interesting video. It of course makes sense, but I have never thought about it... :)
Fish heaters should never fail.
1. Preheat fish heater
2. Add fish
3. Heat fish
4. Eat fish
I just freakin adore you!!! Thank you for being up front and honest!!!! Keep it up!!! As I know you will!!
Hey! So i have a 120L aquarium, what wattage heater would you recommend? Would you still say the 100w or a 75? Thanks 😊
Love the honesty and explanation Cory, thats why I buy my stuff from you...Q: Why cant they design a 2 or 3 degree range, seems like a simple fix; way less cycling and less heat build up??
Marketing, people buy accuracy. They believe in that. It'll take quite a bit to change the opinion of 30 years of marketing currently.
I've had a fluval heater like that one for years when you get "LF" just make sure it's clean, and place it where there is more flow... lol It's a pretty good heater, been going strong for years.
"We want heaters to break! We wanna make money!" 😑 That's the problem with this country..
You seriously think that's a problem only one country deals with?
@@TheAquadian Obviously not.. But America is definitely the king of planned obsolescence..
Capitalism in a nutshell
They can make em last forever, same as light bulbs, they were making them too solid then they lasted so long the companies made no money because they never needed replaced, so they dumbed them down. Bunch of bull sht
I've been considering a temperature controller to help with this. Any recommendations on one? I've never seen one in a local store. Anyone tried to recommended one on Amazon?
This may be a dumb question. But, what about two heaters at different areas of the aquarium? Set at the same temperature, like 78 degrees, Would that work?
Wow this is really good food for thought!! My knowledge set is mostly about the biological aspects of fish keeping and I’ve read up a lot about filtration too but my electrical knowledge is pretty lacking. I think electrical is a pretty important aspect of fish keeping that often goes unmentioned. My brother’s roommate knows a ton about mechanical and electrical stuff and he’s been schooling me on the dumb stuff I’ve been doing with extensions cords and outlet expanders for my aquarium set-ups lol. So great category of videos to touch on! Thanks
You should forward the information or have him get with cory and teach him this stuff so he an teach us
My heater is inline inside my external filter. Out of sight and very efficient.
Its being controlled by a cheap arduino board and temp sensor on the other side of the tank.
Kicks on at xx degrees and turns off at xx degrees, so theres a slower on-off cycle.
I have learned a lot from trial and error, and your channel. I've removed heaters from the two aquariums that I have since freshwater tanks don't really need them; as long as your place is heated and a steady room temperature.
Aesthetically speaking, would it be OK to keep the heater lower in the tank in a horizontal position as opposed to a 45 degree angle?
From the thumbnail expression I thought this might be on the end result of eating at Taco Bell
Place it horizontal and it creates it's own flow. I've never run my heaters vertically ever.
Ohhhh cory! I woke up to a broken heater. It had foggy glass all up the backside. was only a month old. 😠 Good timing bro..
If your heaters break, it could be because you let your heater into cool air or water too fast or hot water/air too fast. If you're cleaning your tank, turn your heater off for 30 min if it'll be exposed to air. Don't turn it back on until the new water is fully in and the heater is submerged again and has been in the new water for 20-30 min. New heaters - put it in your tank water OFF, for 30-60 min. Then turn it on... Glass expands in heat, shrinks in cold. Changing temp rapidly WILL break the glass.