for the hull i suggest a needle gun, its a tool that fires captive small rods of steel, electric powered advantage is less dust but its slow, faster would be to bead blast, then prime the hull then epoxy. Inside use insulation below the waterline to avoid condensation its either self adhesive or glued on I think you have purchased a generator is that for the boat, an alternative would be lithium iron batteries and as many solar panels as you can min 2kw inverter and associated control equipment, if you are staying mainly in marinas then shore power is going to be the main energy cook by gas, heating by diesel hot water via calorifiers, OK for 24 hrs after engine stop but after that either a diesel water heater, shore power or electric but that; a heavy drain on the batteries, to give you an idea we had 4 x 225am gel batteries They would last for days at 500 eros thats a lot of cash we also had a 8 kw mastervolt generator for battery charging and running an electric oven but that was 15 years ago ( 12.7 meter Vlet but by Smelne in Drachten) now all electric boats are getting more practical I agree with the comments about ballast how do you know that you need to put it all back and its a horrible solution, lead is expensive so some sort of concrete steel solution we had same issue with new boat eventually had to have the boot line repainted and put ballast in the stern but just on one side ! So moral of the story is to wait put boat in the water and see what you have ( a generator weighs a lot so you have to allow for all the weight going in such as batteries
When l was in the navy, we use an air compressed needle pin scabbler/scaler to remove paint from the hull of steel ships. It may be painstakingly slow, but the results were worth the effort. Slow and steady wins the race.
The red paint on the hull under the water line is called Antifouling paint. You need it. It's designed to help prevent organic growth from growing on your boat, such as barnacles.
It is painted while the boat was ashore so it's fresh and I would leave it that way. It would be nice if you know what system it is so you can do an extra layer.
Exactly! I would not take that out now! Also I would only grind all the layers of paint near the cracks, fill them up and apply few layers of paint. Not sure how long that would last but at least you then have the boat ready for some sailing and next year you can do it better. :)
Under the paint,is “fairing”. It is used to make the hull sides smooth and wrinkle free. Do not remove too much of this as you will have to re-fair the boat. That takes a special skill. Use a sand blaster on the bottom, then repaint with anti- fowling. Again, remove only what you have too.
Dear MFB- guy. 😱 Uuuuh, your accident could have ended way worse. Congrats for having luck respectively a really good guardian angel. As promised I subscribed after watching 4 good videos. Now let's see the rest. Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health.
Welcome back. I think that it would be faster and probably cheaper to sand the boat, etch the chemically cleaned steel. Only then should the new anticorrosive and self-hardening final coat be covered, at least twice. For a good effect, it is worth refilling worse places. It would probably look beautiful and last for many years. Fingers crossed. Łódź is really beautiful and has enormous potential.
I had a ship with the same problems with the paint on the hull. The primer is very old and will always be a problem. The paint is dark and in the sun the temperature under the paint can be up to 70 degrees. That is funest for the old underground. If you don''t sandblast the boat I advise you to paint the hull in a white color. The temperature in the sun will thenn never come over 40 degrees. That is a better protection for the underground. Succes.
Bondo / car body filler comes off easy with a needlegun scaler, it is also great on irregular shapes - the bottom paint looks like anti fouling, take caution breathing this stuff
Hi there welcome to boat(s) Bring On Another Thousand dollars. May I suggest "Project Brupeg" you will learn exponentially... Please do not remove anything that is firmly bonded...meaning the fairing coats on the hull... Metal etch and spot paint bare steel immediately...
Have you looked into something like the dewalt oscillating tool to get that thick bondo or whatever it is? However I am struggling with why it's so thick on the bow.
for the hull i suggest a needle gun, its a tool that fires captive small rods of steel, electric powered advantage is less dust but its slow, faster would be to bead blast, then prime the hull then epoxy. Inside use insulation below the waterline to avoid condensation its either self adhesive or glued on I think you have purchased a generator is that for the boat, an alternative would be lithium iron batteries and as many solar panels as you can min 2kw inverter and associated control equipment, if you are staying mainly in marinas then shore power is going to be the main energy cook by gas, heating by diesel hot water via calorifiers, OK for 24 hrs after engine stop but after that either a diesel water heater, shore power or electric but that; a heavy drain on the batteries, to give you an idea we had 4 x 225am gel batteries They would last for days at 500 eros thats a lot of cash we also had a 8 kw mastervolt generator for battery charging and running an electric oven but that was 15 years ago ( 12.7 meter Vlet but by Smelne in Drachten) now all electric boats are getting more practical I agree with the comments about ballast how do you know that you need to put it all back and its a horrible solution, lead is expensive so some sort of concrete steel solution we had same issue with new boat eventually had to have the boot line repainted and put ballast in the stern but just on one side ! So moral of the story is to wait put boat in the water and see what you have ( a generator weighs a lot so you have to allow for all the weight going in such as batteries
I am intrigued!!! I started watching from week 31, I believe, and now I'm starting from the beginning. You are doing great!!!
When l was in the navy, we use an air compressed needle pin scabbler/scaler to remove paint from the hull of steel ships. It may be painstakingly slow, but the results were worth the effort. Slow and steady wins the race.
The red paint on the hull under the water line is called Antifouling paint. You need it. It's designed to help prevent organic growth from growing on your boat, such as barnacles.
It is painted while the boat was ashore so it's fresh and I would leave it that way. It would be nice if you know what system it is so you can do an extra layer.
Exactly! I would not take that out now! Also I would only grind all the layers of paint near the cracks, fill them up and apply few layers of paint. Not sure how long that would last but at least you then have the boat ready for some sailing and next year you can do it better. :)
This is the first vlog that I've ever watched and I'm thoroughly enjoying it!
Under the paint,is “fairing”. It is used to make the hull sides smooth and wrinkle free. Do not remove too much of this as you will have to re-fair the boat. That takes a special skill. Use a sand blaster on the bottom, then repaint with anti- fowling. Again, remove only what you have too.
Isn't that something like an amorphous polyester/fiberglass coating? Looks like it's about half a centimeter thick.
Dear MFB- guy.
😱 Uuuuh, your accident could have ended way worse. Congrats for having luck respectively a really good guardian angel. As promised I subscribed after watching 4 good videos. Now let's see the rest.
Thanks a lot for making explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health.
Welcome back. I think that it would be faster and probably cheaper to sand the boat, etch the chemically cleaned steel. Only then should the new anticorrosive and self-hardening final coat be covered, at least twice. For a good effect, it is worth refilling worse places. It would probably look beautiful and last for many years. Fingers crossed. Łódź is really beautiful and has enormous potential.
I had a ship with the same problems with the paint on the hull. The primer is very old and will always be a problem. The paint is dark and in the sun the temperature under the paint can be up to 70 degrees. That is funest for the old underground. If you don''t sandblast the boat I advise you to paint the hull in a white color. The temperature in the sun will thenn never come over 40 degrees. That is a better protection for the underground. Succes.
Hi Arie, that's very intersting, what you say seems to confirm our suspicion. Thanks for sharing.
Bondo / car body filler comes off easy with a needlegun scaler, it is also great on irregular shapes - the bottom paint looks like anti fouling, take caution breathing this stuff
I strongly recommend that you hydro blast the exterior of the boat then paint with 2 pac epoxy primier and also topcoat paint
You were close with the spatula... A bolster chisel & hammer or a small electric demo hammer with broad head bit would have sent those chips flying
Gutes video :) Man merkt einfach wo her du kommst und ich meine nicht durch die Flagge auf dem Boot.
That red paint on the bottom is anti fouling paint, make sure you get the right bottom paint for steel hulls! Get advice from the marina personal!
So the floor board was not replaced properly, or there is something wrong with the support ledgers
In one of your next videos,can you perhaps say something about the specs of the boat? Type, wehre build, size, engine....that kind of stuff.😉
check out the very first video in this channel, all the specs are in there ;)
@Age MIts common practice in Holland to fair in all steel boats to avoid chines etc.
I hope you have a lot of spare time, like years.
Hi there welcome to boat(s) Bring On Another Thousand dollars.
May I suggest "Project Brupeg" you will learn exponentially...
Please do not remove anything that is firmly bonded...meaning the fairing coats on the hull...
Metal etch and spot paint bare steel immediately...
Are you checking to see if the grinder wheels and brushes are rated for your rpm on the grinder
Wasn't media/sand blasting an option?
Have you looked into something like the dewalt oscillating tool to get that thick bondo or whatever it is? However I am struggling with why it's so thick on the bow.
it's epoxy
I'd bet it's thick at that location on the bow because somebody rammed a pier.
You beter use a Perago disk on places where you go to the metal itself. Dont use the grinding disk, it will do more damage than good.
What about a terco disc?
sand blast.....
I agree. Rent a sand blaster. The time savings would more than make up in my mind any cost.
Tetanus shot!? You may want to live long enough to finish this project!
its not primer my friend. it is anti foul paint do not remove. if you do make sure to replace it
looks like a lot of Bondo.
rent a sandblaster. make no time of it at all. could strip that in a day
I think you need to read the comments
Chip away the de-laminated fairing comp
Start the engine before you clean it