Episodes like this are why your channel ranks among the top of the sailing channels. I can only stare at so much gorgeous coastline and turquoise water. Trials and tribulations. Struggles and triumphs. The everyday of what it takes to make it on the water. That's what we want to see. Keep um coming.
I would like to see more of preventive maintenance, not replacement but inspection of equipment before it brakes, what to inspect in what period and what to look for; how to prepare for a long trip to avoid catastrophic failure. Keep up the fun, we love it.
Wow thats just wonderful , you may not believe this but the knowledge that you have gained over the past 3 years took me over 40 years to acquire , dam i wish i was just a bit younger
As usual, you are doing a fantastic job! The learn as you go method is daunting at times, and very intimidating when the stakes are so high. Your courage is amazing! So is your friend, Maria! A hearty well done for both of you!
I used to own a boat repair facility in Seattle on Lake Union and I have to say that I am totally impressed with the skills you two exhibit. I would have loved to have had you ladies working for me!
I am fascinated as to how you girls do an amazing job of changing engines over and doing all of the other things that need fixing or replacing on your boat. Well done. Sail down to Australia you would love in on our East Coast. Stay safe take care Mike x
Very well done you manage to do what a lot of men would think twice about attempting,, you should be very proud of yourself ,, your parents must be very proud of you,,💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐
hehe, maybe most places that you are used to...I have never been in a machine shop where I could not be that close ;). And I think it's just really awesome that you are able to watch them do their job. It really teaches you a lot.
Great job. I was somewhat surprised that you didn't use the "leveling" screws on the engine brackets. We always got the engine and shaft "in the ball park" with shims the way you did, but then fine tuned it with the screws. Our engine brackets had fine thread screws for that very reason. Of course you have to secure the engine to the ways before you start jacking on it. I can't wait to see how it all turns out. Love your channel. The Panama Canal is really neat. Our ship, Canopus AS 34, USN, had special brackets on the hull. When we were leaving the pier on the Atlantic side someone gave a tug the order to go ahead instead of astern. One of the brackets caught on the pier. We ripped out about 100 feet of pier. The locals were not happy with us.
Oldham couplings,are a very easy way in engineering, fluid couplings too, but if you are using positive ones, get a DTI to true the flange coupling up, looks like you have got it good enough concentric.the shaft will give a bit,but you don't want vibration, am an old engineer now and sort of miss it,bloody hard work!
Hi BEAUTIFUL Nike using spacers under the engine mount is one way to do this which works very good. You can also use the long bolt and two nuts on each engine mount to adjust the height of the engine especially for small movements!!!! It’s time to check the engine alignment by now! Some how it changes in some set ups!!!!! Should be checked occasionally!
;) yes, the bolts are great for that. But there was not enough room on them to do the adjustment level that was needed. That's why we needed the "cheese blocks" before we could do the fine-tuning on the bolts. And yes again, alignment needs to be checked occasionally. Have done it already once but surely need to do it again! Thx for the reminder ;)
Great to see the adventure continue, can wait to see Karls heart pumping again. Have a great holiday, hopefully you are back home in Germany celebrating with family.
Merry Christmas Ladies! I've got to hand it to you, you don't cry and you never quit. I think that's what I love about your channel, no matter what happens you just keep going forward. Good on you! God Bless and Happy New Year!
Nike and Maria, my admiration for your sticktoitiveness and problem solving grows each week. Wishing you and your families a Happy Holidays and peace, love, health and happiness for 2018. Fair winds.
Love how you write your 1's. Has that ever created interesting situations/misinterpretations? We ended up ordering 1400 trees from a nursery once when we had intended 100 of each kind by writing our 1's the german way. We now have a well treed yard...
A tip about aluminum drilling or machining: Aluminum heats up and swells and grabs tool surfaces and breaks them. Keep them well lubed if you dont have some coolant. Also, two bladed cutters are best for aluminum.
The lathe in the machine shop could reface the shaft coupling to get it perpendicular to the bore of the coupling. You don't have to use the very thin spacers. I used single edge razor blades When the two couplings are parallel to each other, the razor blade drags with the same feel all around the coupling.
I have seen a lot of DIY boat owner’s do this kind of work. WRONG ! Great job you did ! FYI this type of bolt / clamp on coupling is not the best, that is why you had the alignment problem. The best way to do this sort of job is to take the shaft out and sent it to a shaft / propeller shop. Have the shop supply a new coupling, have the shop fit and face the coupling to the shaft. O by the way before this is even started the shop should check the condition of the shaft both for wear and being out of alignment. When reinstalling the shaft in the boat you should check for wear at the cutlass. I would with out question install a new cutlass bearing due to the fact you are installing a new engine and you had the shaft out. It has been my experience when installing a new engine in place of an old worn out engine. Everything attracted to that old worn out engine is also worn out. FYI a very common over looked item that can cause a real problem is the shift and throttle cables. They should be replaced during the install. The shift / throttle cable may look fine on the out side of the red jacket, but inside the cable is worn out just like the engine. If the shift cable breaks when coming into a dock it could be catastrophic. Think about it you save 30.00 bucks from by not replacing the cable. But in the long run cost yourself 1,000.00 bucks in repairs to your bow pulpit because of the impact into the dock not being able to shift the transmission into reverse. Better yet you may really hurt someone on deck.
Looking good, best to spend some time getting the alignment right. Ask if you can borrow a dial test indicator DTI gauge with a magnetic base also known as a clock gauge from the engineering workshop. You can use this on the gearbox output shaft and the prop shaft to check both are running true. In the engineering company I work for we use a laser alignment tool however you can get pretty close using old school methods. PS make sure the shim material won't compress over time as this will put the alignment out. Hope you have a good Christmas.
Nike and Joana, you ladies are friggin' AMAZING! You rock!!!! I have the feeling the two of you should have studied engineering. You would have been at the head of the class.
sorry, we cannot post more frequently than once a week, but we try to keep that up at least :). You can follow more frequent updates on Facebook @WhiteSpotPirates or Instagram #WhiteSpotPirates if you want to. Ahoy, Nike
Interesting to compare your progress with my own. I'm sure I learn things. My Perkins diesel broke a con rod this summer and I decided to rebuild with a reconditioned 'short' engine, although I keep wondering if I should have gone for a complete new engine. Either way it's a lot of work. The Perkins are old tractor engines built to be refurbished forever so wear isn't a problem, but after all these years fatigue happens, and reconditioned short engines are still 'old' in that respect. Lifting the 250kg engine was an exercise in itself as I have a closed wheelhouse, so had to build a 'crane' inside it that could lift the engine above the floor in order to strip it and hoist it outside.
always fun, isn't it? Mine is about 240kg I think...but I am lucky I can just lift that cockpit floor right up...Good luck on your progress. My engine already has some 400+h on it by now and I am super happy I went for new rather than rebuild...
@@WhiteSpotPirates Not sure about fun, but it keep me occupied at weekends. We'll see how it goes: there are lots of other things I could spend the price of a new engine on.
Its amazing all that you've done to Karl. There isn't and inch of that Boat you probably don't know and haven't worked on at some point. There may come a day you'll decide to Sell Karl if it fully served its purpose for you but now matter what. That will be a Sad day if it comes. I've followed you from the start. You & your Friend are Amazing and Inspiring and what Great Friends. I am so Jealous of your life but at least I can watch a dream I never filled and its to late now because of my Age and Bad Health. So Thank You for all your Wonderful Videos and Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. I'll be watching. Your never met Friend. Terry :)
i would think, considering vibration and weight and expansion coefficients one could not go too far wrong keeping materials that touch each other the same. aluminum to aluminum.
buy a set of cadmium steel bits if you don't have some already, they are awesome, they go right through stainless if you can believe. not cheap but good thing usually aren't.
I wouldn't replace those engine mounts if they hold up. They seem perfect for this, as that thick plastic looks very solid and it will also adsorb some of the vibrations much better than any metal would...
Hm, maybe you misunderstood something...I did not change any engine mounts, I used the ones the engine came with. I just had to put a spacer made from Teflon (those yellow bits) between the metal and the mounts because the engine was still sitting too low and I had alread raised the engine bed with 2inch aluminum and another inch would have been a bit much pricewise / for drilling / bolts... Ahoy, Nike
Yeah, I was talking about those spacers. You said you want to maybe change them later. If they hold up fine, I would just leave them there. They will absorb some vibrations and not pass it directly through the hull of the boat...
The Sigmadrive coupling really helps with alignment issues. Lots of noise and vibration reduction. You can't ever keep a marine engine lined up over the long haul. Buy the Sigmadrive coupling and things will work a lot better for you.
when drilling in aluminium rubbing alcohol aka isopropyl alcohol is a better cutting fluid than wd40 i think :) also hss-e drills cuts nicely in my opinion, i know they are a bit more expensive. Love the videos.
I just wonder if a universal coupling would do the trick for alignment. Also, a universal coupling can help preventing damage to the engine when the propeller hits something hard.
I’ve seen all your vids, at least I think I have, even some made for your German audience, not that I speak German. Man I wish I had 1/3rd of your “Go get’em, Get’er Done Bravado”! I look forward to each weeks vid release. I just wish they were a bit longer...”but more on that next week” 😢
Watching this video as a part time mechanic for over 30 years, i'm surprised that the engines don't use a Universal Joint to connect the engine to the shaft. That would eliminate all that precision aligning. Can anyone tell me why boats don't use those? Thanks for sharing Gals. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Universal joints or some other types of flexible couplings are common on boats, but this ist the cheapest and simplest ( and also uncomfortablest ) way to connect the engine with the shaft. Universal joints for marine-use also need an additional support-structure, cause they do not only have to work with the torque, as also with the propeller thrust. www.krahwinkel-kpm.de/DE/pd_auf1blick.php
Perfecto for the spacers! Your process at the flange is good, my concern is about the other end of the shaft. If the tube or the cutless bearing add some side pressure on the shaft it will make it vibrate At least make sure it turn’s very free out of the water and in the water... With a job like that, you might use the motor more than your sails...lol😜
In a previous incarnation, I played industrial millwright. Although setting and aligning machinery isn't rocket science - depending on the application - it can be no less exacting. I must say, in less than ideal circumstances, y'all did an absolutely bang-up job. You just got on with the task at hand and knocked down each step with creativity and pluck. Good on ya. Apply this same open creative exacting methodical approach to any extended blue-water trek and I like your chances for success. Journey well ⛵️🏝⚓️👍
oh really? That is so cool, thank you for the heads up. I had been in contact with Levi and he had told me that he was doing fine. But that's great that you looked out for him, thank you so much. I am not sure yet, when I will make it back. I am helping Marina with some charters now and then will head over there after. Ahoy, Nike
buy yourself some cobalt steel drill bits, they go thru anything! Don't waste money on those titanium bits, that's only a plating and will wear off after a few uses.
Nice job girls, there`s just one problem, the engine is rubber mounted and therefore jumps about when running, the shaft is solid mounted and doesn`t. This means that the engine will cause the shaft to bend as it turns, enough so that over a period of time the shaft will cause premature wear to the stern tube and stern gland if you have one, although I thought that I saw a PSS shaft seal arrangement but could not be sure. It will also cause premature wear on the tailshaft bearing in the gearbox and also wear on the drive flanges. The problems will not come to light straight away, the damage will be done by the time that you notice anything. I have been a boat owner for 20 years and an engineer for 45 years. To solve the problem you need to fit a flexible coupling between the gearbox flange and the shaft flange. Kind regards, Paul.
Hi Paul, thanks for your explanations and your recommendation to mount a flexible coupling. That's exactly what we did, you will see that in episode UTL III #36 (the white coupling you see in between the gearbox flange and the shaft coupling) ua-cam.com/video/_Xvq41NENPw/v-deo.html We just went through everything step by step and this was just the initial alignment. The flexible coupling should just be an extension of the existing coupling...so in theory, it should not change anything on the alignment. We did re-measure it, but it was all good. So no worries, all is as it is supposed to be and no harm done to any gearboxes or stern tubes :). Cheers, Nike
Nike. Great to see the lead up to the fantastic engine start moment (saw it live streamed). Just curious how much it cost for the material and labor for all those shims? My guess if those shims were custom made in the USA, it would have been $300 or so. Happy sailing and was happy to see you and Maria pop up on Vet Tails' Sailing. I subscribed to their channel as well.
BobNarz I paid 40$ for the shims and the little bushing. That was mostly for the work, the material was some scraps they had lying around. But still, it was a super great price and I was happy as a clam 😄
Well done ladies.......awesome work here......what are you doing for the rest of your lives?? ;-) Why not get you lathe friend to put your coupling on a shaft (same size as your propshaft) and face the shaft coupling? Absolutely love what you are doing. I hope 2018 is a great year for you. Neil
Yes, you are totally right, there is a flexible coupling that you can fit between the shaft coupling and the transmission flange. But when you do the alignment, you usually align metal to metal - meaning the shaft coupling directly to the tranny flange and then you enter the flexible coupling and recheck. At least that's how I was told and what I found out from my research. And since the coupling was not sitting square on the shaft, I needed to get a new one before even thinking of adding the flexible coupling. You will see that one being installed in #34 :) Ahoy, Nike
WhiteSpotPirates Awsome Nike! Looking forward to it. I suppose a straight line would be more energy efficient. This is why I enjoy your videos. I came for the sailing and stayed because of your personality and the mechanical parts.
Flexible couplings are a great choice to avoid forced oscillation to carry into bearings, shaft, tranny, engine and their mounts, while You usually do align with the fixed (non flex) combination to be able to reasonably measure at all. But You mustn't forget that a flexible coupling might require an additional thrust bearing mounted to the hull because the flexible coupling is not able (for obvious reasons, being a flexible link) to transfer the thrust from prop and shaft into transmission(->engine->mounts->hull).
This is expensive but works great. It's like a CV joint for boat shafts to allow for a little misalignment over time. 3 degrees in any direction of misalignment. www.ab-marine.com/bruntons-sigmadrive/
LOL. German people complimenting other countries for there engineering. WOW that's earnt a thumbs up from me. Well done .Have Great Christmas. xx (Thats one each)
I was told the actual PTFE plastic was very expensive. Maybe your machinist used a surplus version ? And, Nigel's book, is that a different one from the book I have, Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical by Nigil ?
Make sure you have 20 mills of thread showing on the engine mounts once it’s all bolted up , and try t o get 5 thou ish between the cuplink remember you proberly have a rnd cuplink as well use a feeler gauge don’t eye it , it will work by eye but will always work loose do it right google it
Terrific Job. As long as there is no water squirting out of the holes you drilled you are doing great!!!!😊
Episodes like this are why your channel ranks among the top of the sailing channels. I can only stare at so much gorgeous coastline and turquoise water. Trials and tribulations. Struggles and triumphs. The everyday of what it takes to make it on the water. That's what we want to see.
Keep um coming.
I would like to see more of preventive maintenance, not replacement but inspection of equipment before it brakes, what to inspect in what period and what to look for; how to prepare for a long trip to avoid catastrophic failure. Keep up the fun, we love it.
How cool to have Panama canal history in your boat. All the best Graham Sheffield England
that little Teflon doodad to align the shaft to the stuffing box was pure engineering genius. simple but effective. you have mucho respect from me.
Love it when a woman gets into engines and mechanical work! Great series of videos,
It never ceases to amaze me what you accomplish, and I love how you feature all the local machinists and mechanics who help or fashion things for you.
Hi Nike, Thanks for this installment of the ongoing TLC being given Karl. Remarkable to see the care and effort put into him.
Love how you tackled this yourself! VERY inspiring.
If I were to describe this video in a single word - IMPRESSIVE
Wow thats just wonderful , you may not believe this but the knowledge that you have gained over the past 3 years took me over 40 years to acquire , dam i wish i was just a bit younger
Your persistence and ingenuity are an inspiration,wishing you the very best,thanks for sharing☺️
As usual, you are doing a fantastic job! The learn as you go method is daunting at times, and very intimidating when the stakes are so high. Your courage is amazing! So is your friend, Maria! A hearty well done for both of you!
I used to own a boat repair facility in Seattle on Lake Union and I have to say that I am totally impressed with the skills you two exhibit. I would have loved to have had you ladies working for me!
I bet you would pervert!
I am fascinated as to how you girls do an amazing job of changing engines over and doing all of the other things that need fixing or replacing on your boat. Well done.
Sail down to Australia you would love in on our East Coast. Stay safe take care Mike x
Very well done you manage to do what a lot of men would think twice about attempting,, you should be very proud of yourself ,, your parents must be very proud of you,,💐💐💐💐💐💐💐💐
Most places wouldn't let the customer that close to a spinning metal lathe. Very cool! And great job!
hehe, maybe most places that you are used to...I have never been in a machine shop where I could not be that close ;). And I think it's just really awesome that you are able to watch them do their job. It really teaches you a lot.
Great job. I was somewhat surprised that you didn't use the "leveling" screws on the engine brackets. We always got the engine and shaft "in the ball park" with shims the way you did, but then fine tuned it with the screws. Our engine brackets had fine thread screws for that very reason. Of course you have to secure the engine to the ways before you start jacking on it. I can't wait to see how it all turns out. Love your channel. The Panama Canal is really neat. Our ship, Canopus AS 34, USN, had special brackets on the hull. When we were leaving the pier on the Atlantic side someone gave a tug the order to go ahead instead of astern. One of the brackets caught on the pier. We ripped out about 100 feet of pier. The locals were not happy with us.
Very good input with the motor height.. I will be installing my new Beta soon...
Oldham couplings,are a very easy way in engineering, fluid couplings too, but if you are using positive ones, get a DTI to true the flange coupling up, looks like you have got it good enough concentric.the shaft will give a bit,but you don't want vibration, am an old engineer now and sort of miss it,bloody hard work!
Awesome job ladies ,your family must be very proud
You Gals do great work! Sure there's lot's of guy's wishing they could do that! Big red's gonna purr!
Nice work! This is a mind bender of a job.
Very good job, I know exactly what you are going threw, have done numerous motors and pulleys , etc.
I replace my engine and had a machine shop turn my old flange to make sure it was square the machine shop you used could have done that for you.
Hi BEAUTIFUL Nike using spacers under the engine mount is one way to do this which works very good. You can also use the long bolt and two nuts on each engine mount to adjust the height of the engine especially for small movements!!!! It’s time to check the engine alignment by now! Some how it changes in some set ups!!!!! Should be checked occasionally!
;) yes, the bolts are great for that. But there was not enough room on them to do the adjustment level that was needed. That's why we needed the "cheese blocks" before we could do the fine-tuning on the bolts.
And yes again, alignment needs to be checked occasionally. Have done it already once but surely need to do it again! Thx for the reminder ;)
Good work Gals !!!! You lined up the equipment the right way.
Great to see the adventure continue, can wait to see Karls heart pumping again. Have a great holiday, hopefully you are back home in Germany celebrating with family.
I am indeed :). Have some great holidays as well!
Ahoy, Nike
Merry Christmas Ladies! I've got to hand it to you, you don't cry and you never quit. I think that's what I love about your channel, no matter what happens you just keep going forward. Good on you! God Bless and Happy New Year!
I learn something new every day. Thanks for teaching it to me.... !!
Nike and Maria, my admiration for your sticktoitiveness and problem solving grows each week. Wishing you and your families a Happy Holidays and peace, love, health and happiness for 2018. Fair winds.
Love how you write your 1's. Has that ever created interesting situations/misinterpretations? We ended up ordering 1400 trees from a nursery once when we had intended 100 of each kind by writing our 1's the german way. We now have a well treed yard...
Any job worth doing should be done right! I admire your skills!
RESPEKT!!! Greetings from "sailing spore di mare"
A tip about aluminum drilling or machining: Aluminum heats up and swells and grabs tool surfaces and breaks them. Keep them well lubed if you dont have some coolant.
Also, two bladed cutters are best for aluminum.
The lathe in the machine shop could reface the shaft coupling to get it perpendicular to the bore of the coupling. You don't have to use the very thin spacers. I used single edge razor blades When the two couplings are parallel to each other, the razor blade drags with the same feel all around the coupling.
I have seen a lot of DIY boat owner’s do this kind of work. WRONG ! Great job you did !
FYI this type of bolt / clamp on coupling is not the best, that is why you had the alignment problem. The best way to do this sort of job is to take the shaft out and sent it to a shaft / propeller shop. Have the shop supply a new coupling, have the shop fit and face the coupling to the shaft.
O by the way before this is even started the shop should check the condition of the shaft both for wear and being out of alignment.
When reinstalling the shaft in the boat you should check for wear at the cutlass. I would with out question install a new cutlass bearing due to the fact you are installing a new engine and you had the shaft out. It has been my experience when installing a new engine in place of an old worn out engine. Everything attracted to that old worn out engine is also worn out. FYI a very common over looked item that can cause a real problem is the shift and throttle cables. They should be replaced during the install. The shift / throttle cable may look fine on the out side of the red jacket, but inside the cable is worn out just like the engine. If the shift cable breaks when coming into a dock it could be catastrophic. Think about it you save 30.00 bucks from by not replacing the cable. But in the long run cost yourself 1,000.00 bucks in repairs to your bow pulpit because of the impact into the dock not being able to shift the transmission into reverse. Better yet you may really hurt someone on deck.
Awesome! First time viewer here. This might be my new favorite vlog. Loved the machine shop and engineering. Great work.
Great work!!!
Looking good, best to spend some time getting the alignment right. Ask if you can borrow a dial test indicator DTI gauge with a magnetic base also known as a clock gauge from the engineering workshop. You can use this on the gearbox output shaft and the prop shaft to check both are running true. In the engineering company I work for we use a laser alignment tool however you can get pretty close using old school methods. PS make sure the shim material won't compress over time as this will put the alignment out. Hope you have a good Christmas.
Nike and Joana, you ladies are friggin' AMAZING! You rock!!!! I have the feeling the two of you should have studied engineering. You would have been at the head of the class.
You two are rock stars and left us with a cliffhanger always drawing us back for just one more time, love it. Merry Christmas.
You are pure motivation!
Урааа! долгожданный ролик! Публикуйтесь чаще, прошу.
sorry, we cannot post more frequently than once a week, but we try to keep that up at least :). You can follow more frequent updates on Facebook @WhiteSpotPirates or Instagram #WhiteSpotPirates if you want to.
Ahoy, Nike
Nothing stops you, Merry Christmas
Interesting to compare your progress with my own. I'm sure I learn things. My Perkins diesel broke a con rod this summer and I decided to rebuild with a reconditioned 'short' engine, although I keep wondering if I should have gone for a complete new engine. Either way it's a lot of work. The Perkins are old tractor engines built to be refurbished forever so wear isn't a problem, but after all these years fatigue happens, and reconditioned short engines are still 'old' in that respect. Lifting the 250kg engine was an exercise in itself as I have a closed wheelhouse, so had to build a 'crane' inside it that could lift the engine above the floor in order to strip it and hoist it outside.
always fun, isn't it? Mine is about 240kg I think...but I am lucky I can just lift that cockpit floor right up...Good luck on your progress. My engine already has some 400+h on it by now and I am super happy I went for new rather than rebuild...
@@WhiteSpotPirates Not sure about fun, but it keep me occupied at weekends. We'll see how it goes: there are lots of other things I could spend the price of a new engine on.
Wunderbar! Herzlichen Dank für Deine tollen Erlebnisse und die vielen Filme! Dir ein frohes Weihnachtsfest und ein zufriedenes Jahr 2018!
gleichfalls :)!!!
I used to own my own machine shop and installed the engines in my 42-foot boat and others...Great fun.
Its amazing all that you've done to Karl. There isn't and inch of that Boat you probably don't know and haven't worked on at some point. There may come a day you'll decide to Sell Karl if it fully served its purpose for you but now matter what. That will be a Sad day if it comes. I've followed you from the start. You & your Friend are Amazing and Inspiring and what Great Friends. I am so Jealous of your life but at least I can watch a dream I never filled and its to late now because of my Age and Bad Health. So Thank You for all your Wonderful Videos and Merry Christmas & Happy New Year. I'll be watching. Your never met Friend. Terry :)
Merry Christmas! Frohes Fest! Ich hoffe doch Karl bekommt auch etwas zu Weihnachten.
i would think, considering vibration and weight and expansion coefficients one could not go too far wrong keeping materials that touch each other the same.
aluminum to aluminum.
Both you and Free Range Sailing gave a mention to Nigel Calder's book in the same week.
cause he wrote "THE BIBLE" ;)
As a steel boat captain I laugh at your aluminum drilling complaints.
great machine shop, yea the cushions are OK. aligning the engine was something else, but well done you got there, love the unique Panama shims.
nice job! thanks for the Video
buy a set of cadmium steel bits if you don't have some already, they are awesome, they go right through stainless if you can believe. not cheap but good thing usually aren't.
I enjoy how you effort and work. Sigue así. 😊
Nice work
Thanks for posting. : )
I wouldn't replace those engine mounts if they hold up. They seem perfect for this, as that thick plastic looks very solid and it will also adsorb some of the vibrations much better than any metal would...
Hm, maybe you misunderstood something...I did not change any engine mounts, I used the ones the engine came with. I just had to put a spacer made from Teflon (those yellow bits) between the metal and the mounts because the engine was still sitting too low and I had alread raised the engine bed with 2inch aluminum and another inch would have been a bit much pricewise / for drilling / bolts...
Ahoy, Nike
Yeah, I was talking about those spacers. You said you want to maybe change them later. If they hold up fine, I would just leave them there. They will absorb some vibrations and not pass it directly through the hull of the boat...
Just the socketrubber ? Thats no heavy defect . I like to sail and live on a sailingboat. Mike, Ahoi .
The Sigmadrive coupling really helps with alignment issues. Lots of noise and vibration reduction. You can't ever keep a marine engine lined up over the long haul. Buy the Sigmadrive coupling and things will work a lot better for you.
Allyn Onderdonk.
Just looked up "Sigmadrive couplings". From an engineering standpoint your totally correct. Well done.
Sailing vessel Prism did a review of the coupling on youtube.
when drilling in aluminium rubbing alcohol aka isopropyl alcohol is a better cutting fluid than wd40 i think :) also hss-e drills cuts nicely in my opinion, i know they are a bit more expensive.
Love the videos.
Watch out for electrolysis between aluminum boat and steel washers oil well !
I just wonder if a universal coupling would do the trick for alignment. Also, a universal coupling can help preventing damage to the engine when the propeller hits something hard.
I’ve seen all your vids, at least I think I have, even some made for your German audience, not that I speak German. Man I wish I had 1/3rd of your “Go get’em, Get’er Done Bravado”! I look forward to each weeks vid release. I just wish they were a bit longer...”but more on that next week” 😢
Watching this video as a part time mechanic for over 30 years, i'm surprised that the engines don't use a Universal Joint to connect the engine to the shaft. That would eliminate all that precision aligning. Can anyone tell me why boats don't use those?
Thanks for sharing Gals. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Universal joints or some other types of flexible couplings are common on boats, but this ist the cheapest and simplest ( and also uncomfortablest ) way to connect the engine with the shaft. Universal joints for marine-use also need an additional support-structure, cause they do not only have to work with the torque, as also with the propeller thrust.
www.krahwinkel-kpm.de/DE/pd_auf1blick.php
Amazing! thanks for sharing
Perfecto for the spacers!
Your process at the flange is good, my concern is about the other end of the shaft. If the tube or the cutless bearing add some side pressure on the shaft it will make it vibrate
At least make sure it turn’s very free out of the water and in the water...
With a job like that, you might use the motor more than your sails...lol😜
Very good video for anyone interested in replacing an engine. I am assuming that the flange shaft coupler was out of alignment with your old motor?
In a previous incarnation, I played industrial millwright. Although setting and aligning machinery isn't rocket science - depending on the application - it can be no less exacting. I must say, in less than ideal circumstances, y'all did an absolutely bang-up job. You just got on with the task at hand and knocked down each step with creativity and pluck. Good on ya. Apply this same open creative exacting methodical approach to any extended blue-water trek and I like your chances for success. Journey well ⛵️🏝⚓️👍
You are doing (have done 😉) a fantastic job.👍
Great video Nike. We passed Karl this afternoon. He’s fine. When are you back up this way. Cheers
oh really? That is so cool, thank you for the heads up. I had been in contact with Levi and he had told me that he was doing fine. But that's great that you looked out for him, thank you so much. I am not sure yet, when I will make it back. I am helping Marina with some charters now and then will head over there after.
Ahoy, Nike
how much to secure a spot on your boat in the event of a zombie apocalypse? you two got some mad skills.
For future hull drilling, carbide bits...
You two can do anything GREAT job...S/V Teak Key
WD-40 is a great cutting fluid for aluminium in case you need to drill more holes
Fitting to take a piece of the canal with you after it took a go pro from you.
buy yourself some cobalt steel drill bits, they go thru anything! Don't waste money on those titanium bits, that's only a plating and will wear off after a few uses.
good trick with drilling aluminium , use beeswax to prevent the aluminium from welding itself to the drillbit
did not know that you could use beeswax as a lubrikant. Maybe a bit sad to waste such a precious product on drilling aluminium ;)
@@WhiteSpotPirates could drill through a small candle stub a few times too , does the same thing and you trow those away if there too short anyway
Nice job girls, there`s just one problem, the engine is rubber mounted and therefore jumps about when running, the shaft is solid mounted and doesn`t. This means that the engine will cause the shaft to bend as it turns, enough so that over a period of time the shaft will cause premature wear to the stern tube and stern gland if you have one, although I thought that I saw a PSS shaft seal arrangement but could not be sure. It will also cause premature wear on the tailshaft bearing in the gearbox and also wear on the drive flanges. The problems will not come to light straight away, the damage will be done by the time that you notice anything. I have been a boat owner for 20 years and an engineer for 45 years. To solve the problem you need to fit a flexible coupling between the gearbox flange and the shaft flange. Kind regards, Paul.
Hi Paul, thanks for your explanations and your recommendation to mount a flexible coupling. That's exactly what we did, you will see that in episode UTL III #36 (the white coupling you see in between the gearbox flange and the shaft coupling) ua-cam.com/video/_Xvq41NENPw/v-deo.html
We just went through everything step by step and this was just the initial alignment. The flexible coupling should just be an extension of the existing coupling...so in theory, it should not change anything on the alignment. We did re-measure it, but it was all good. So no worries, all is as it is supposed to be and no harm done to any gearboxes or stern tubes :).
Cheers, Nike
Yes Paul you are right and they are ordering a new coupling they said.
Nike. Great to see the lead up to the fantastic engine start moment (saw it live streamed). Just curious how much it cost for the material and labor for all those shims? My guess if those shims were custom made in the USA, it would have been $300 or so. Happy sailing and was happy to see you and Maria pop up on Vet Tails' Sailing. I subscribed to their channel as well.
BobNarz I paid 40$ for the shims and the little bushing. That was mostly for the work, the material was some scraps they had lying around. But still, it was a super great price and I was happy as a clam 😄
I was told that ‘Hardy-Spicers’ - U/J’s were to be 6.5 degrees out of alignment . This would allow the grease to circulate and ‘self lube’.
Much love Nike AND Joana! Have a wonderful Holiday! Keep the inspiration coming!! SV DIJAN
I am asking for longer videos :)
What no D T I gauge? you will find it a breeze with one of them off flee bay for $20 buck's! Big red is looking great! nice job!
THANKS for reminding me of that!!! I wanted to order one whilst I am home!!! I knew I had forgotten somehting...
Ahoy, Nike
Good vid !
Well done ladies.......awesome work here......what are you doing for the rest of your lives?? ;-)
Why not get you lathe friend to put your coupling on a shaft (same size as your propshaft) and face the shaft coupling?
Absolutely love what you are doing.
I hope 2018 is a great year for you.
Neil
I wonder if a Lovejoy coupler would work on a sailboat? Seems like it wouldn't have to have such close tolerances
My god, what a woman... I'm in love.
I'm thinking there must be a flexible coupler. I fix cars for a living and have seen some good options.
Loving the videos. Thanks.
Yes, you are totally right, there is a flexible coupling that you can fit between the shaft coupling and the transmission flange. But when you do the alignment, you usually align metal to metal - meaning the shaft coupling directly to the tranny flange and then you enter the flexible coupling and recheck. At least that's how I was told and what I found out from my research.
And since the coupling was not sitting square on the shaft, I needed to get a new one before even thinking of adding the flexible coupling. You will see that one being installed in #34 :)
Ahoy, Nike
WhiteSpotPirates Awsome Nike!
Looking forward to it.
I suppose a straight line would be more energy efficient.
This is why I enjoy your videos. I came for the sailing and stayed because of your personality and the mechanical parts.
Flexible couplings are a great choice to avoid forced oscillation to carry into bearings, shaft, tranny, engine and their mounts, while You usually do align with the fixed (non flex) combination to be able to reasonably measure at all.
But You mustn't forget that a flexible coupling might require an additional thrust bearing mounted to the hull because the flexible coupling is not able (for obvious reasons, being a flexible link) to transfer the thrust from prop and shaft into transmission(->engine->mounts->hull).
This is expensive but works great. It's like a CV joint for boat shafts to allow for a little misalignment over time. 3 degrees in any direction of misalignment. www.ab-marine.com/bruntons-sigmadrive/
Putting a flexible coupling in without the mechanical alignment is a formula for early retirement...good job Nike!
LOL. German people complimenting other countries for there engineering. WOW that's earnt a thumbs up from me. Well done .Have Great Christmas. xx (Thats one each)
Was nice line
Nice video........
i think I would used a universal U joint with a rubber dona , that gets rid off vibration
I was told the actual PTFE plastic was very expensive. Maybe your machinist used a surplus version ? And, Nigel's book, is that a different one from the book I have, Boat Owners Mechanical and Electrical by Nigil ?
Duh! &@$! Have that book coming.
Merry Christmas, and not a white Christmas. ..
With the cu plinks you rotate it to get the 5 thou , and work left to Right
Make sure you have 20 mills of thread showing on the engine mounts once it’s all bolted up , and try t o get 5 thou ish between the cuplink remember you proberly have a rnd cuplink as well use a feeler gauge don’t eye it , it will work by eye but will always work loose do it right google it
i need to meet u, u have done amazing job
And some new TOOLS ,, woooohoooo :-)
2 more drives to evaluate "Python Drive" + "Aqua Drive" No nothing about either but thought i'd throw it in anyway.