Great viewing as an ex merchant seaman I would get a small needle gun for chipping the rust handy in some awkward areas but you would need a compressor
I am astonished at the amount of effort needed to do all these repairs! This must be truly a labor of love! I always look forward to these videos...to me they are really interesting and instructive. Thanks as always.
What I always find really nice to do when patching holes. is using a holessaw to cut out nice round disks, then using the holesaw to enlarge holes that need patching. And with the disk you have a perfectly fitting piece of metal. Clean, quick and easy. you could use a piece of wood as backing to use for centering the holesaw Also way faster than drilling wholes and then cutting it out and getting the square to fit, Just an idea, keep up the good work tho, really entertaining to watch
Use Teflon Tape for sealing the treads. Put it on clockwise and wrap the male threads several times. It’ll work well. It’ll also allow easy removal if you ever need to take the valve off
I agree, you can see in the video a few strands of Teflon tape still on the pipe threads, so my guess is it worked well enough for the previous owner(s).
Probably one of the most interesting series on UA-cam just now. Great content. Awesome watching this come together. You’re going to have a great boat at the end. 😀🤙
With all due respect. Rust converter will only slow down rust for a very short time (months not years), especially on a boat. Complete removal of rust and welding new metal where needed is the only long term repair. The exhaust pipe is also rusty on the inside. Sandblasting is the best method.
Is that oil like phosphoric acid? only oil based instead of water based like Ospho???? I have never seen the stuff. I have had good luck stopping rust where it is using silicone tire shine, which is good at wiking down between layers of rust, but then not much will stick to it in terms of paints or fiberglass; Though I didn't think much would stick to any sort of oil either! Anyway, I think I agree about the holes needing to be welded, unless you can use sealants like that tire shine after fiberglassing to seal moisture out from getting under the patches, rusting the metal underneath, which then pries off the patches as it expands.
As much as I’m enjoying this guys renovation, I wish he’d take the same approach as you guys have on your boat, with your do it properly the first time and do it nice haha
As others have mentioned, when rust gets to the point where you can flake it off in chunks, and/or has eaten through a substantial portion of the steel, and/or has eaten holes in the steel, the ONLY safe and effective repair method is to cut it out all of the way back to sound steel and weld in suitable repair material. Rust converters are intended for surfaces where you are treating the minor pitting left from removing surface rust, and fiberglass is intended to be applied to a clean, sound, rust-and-oil free surface. What you are doing is the same as a doctor putting an adhesive bandage on a malignant cancer and calling it cured because you can no longer see it.
So true, this part is more a "how not to restore your boat" :-) You did such a nice job the earlier stages. I worked a lot on old cars and the only good way is cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Important for boats, it must be from the right grade (In this case maritime grade steel, but most important, the same type the hull is made from) All other solutions are temporary and even can speed up the rust (has to do with chemical and electrical effects, like a zink-anode reduces rust on steel parts) What I often prefer to do is first cut a piece of steel, outline it on the hull and then cut that form out of the hull.
Three simple techniques to improve your stick welding. 1: Get a head mounted helmet, It will leave your left hand free for #2. 2: Use your left hand to steady the rod at the weld puddle. 3: Preheat your rods to remove moisture. A rod oven will reduce splatter, cracking and porosity. A common toaster oven will substitute for a commercial unit ( starting at $100 ).
Recommend you do a pressure test on that exhaust line. Plug both ends and test with just a few inches of water pressure. Just to be sure no leaks, carbon monoxide is bad stuff. Also we used rectorseal which is a liquid Teflon sealant. Great stuff
The rust around the bridge? windows, needs cutting out and replacing, while on that subject check your windows, all those hot sparks flying off when grinding can stick in the glass, soon as you use the boat and get any condensation it will rust, good progress keep going its starting to come together.
Your welding is starting to look great - as I started by saying - you have to crawl before you can walk - continue the good work, think it will be a super boat
Great video just love it when the notification pops up. Had a busy day today and this is just what I needed. Keep up the good work it’s going to look amazing when it’s done. 👍
Just started to see your project love watching it I think you're doing very well,I spent time in your country in l1978 when I was in army and loved it and the people I'm from the UK
Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
Listen to the experts, but ask a pertinent question. Did they ever take on a task this size at your age? Nah! they were still perfecting and honing their trade skills You don't have many skills but you are determined and along with your enthusiasm you will get there. I enjoy your efforts . Regards, JM
On the subject of the pipe fittings, the red stuff on there already is called Red Stag pipe jointing compound, it ,as mentioned by another poster can be used in conjunction with p.t.f.e tape or (horse hair) hemp, it's not really horse hair that's just a trade term.
One tip you may not have known is the thermal expansion rates of iron oxide and steel are very different. I use heat to chip heavy flake rust quite regularly. If you do not have a small oxy-acetylene rig, it might be a good time to invest in one. You can start with a small tip and just heat up the rusty area. The flakes will almost shoot off (wear goggles, etc). It is then ready for wire brush and rusty metal paint.
HI from North Wales UK. Time maybe short but please do not cut corners to get there.................... You will regret it. Good luck with your build and I look forward to the next one!
Brilliant vlog and very interesting. Taking everything back to empty space and doing the job properly. Good work. If folks are interested there is another guy building a boat ‘One Man and His Boat’ on UA-cam. There are some good tips and interesting videos there as well.
I'm amazed that you still have not started working on the bottom of your boat with only a few weeks left before splash time. All the work I've seen you do so far could have been done after you put the boat in the water.
Hey buddy, I really like the channel. I know you have already work past that cockpit rust, but you should get a needle gun. It works so much faster. The down side it needs a larger compressor to run it. You are doing great.
The exhaust tube is probably is the last thing you want to skimp out on. Not only do you have the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning but you have a source of water to leak in the boat.
A tip for arc welding, keep the electrode consistently at a 45 degree angle to the work piece, that way the flux on the outside of the electrode covers the weld properly
Many years we used a brushable sealant made by Orminoid called Hydraseal ,, its thick, you mix a small amount of petrol to the density you desire and brush it on your fitting ,, the petrol dissolves and leaves t good thick coating on the fittings,,, I've unscrewed 6 inch galvanized under ground irrigation fittings relatively easy after 5 plus years ,,
Okay, is it just me, or is the background music from GTA? I recognize it from running heists and missions...Great videos, btw. Found your channel yesterday, and decided to watch everything in order! You make me want to buy an old boat and stick it in my field as a long term project!
Use PTFE tape for the valve connection. I turn per MM size of the pipe - looks like that is about 25mm as such 25 turns. WInd it on tight and up and down the thread.
you might have to cut out and weld in the rust under the windscreen from out side and use the glass filler inside, which will still be hard but not as hard as welding in that tight space.
While doing engine work, you definitely need to replace the water pump impeller before you put the boat in the water and also replace the belt. Make sure your temperature gauge is working as well. Don't want to overheat the engine. Cheers from Austin, Texas
For cleaning rust from pipe use a chain , one turn round the pipe and pull back and forth. Make it wate tight whith regular pipe stuff not m3 silicone. Lin an some lin greas
Grind the fwd cabin bilge grommet (pipe) away and install a bronze grommet, a lot safer. Iron grommets are the most common cause for ship leaks and loss.
I have used rust-oleum rust metal primer for years which has fish oil in the ingredients that help force out moisture. Leave exposed with primer before top coating.
Whoops. Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can BE saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
At 3:37 - whatever you do, DO NOT USE 5200! 5200 will make a permanent and unbreakable bond with the fitting and you will never get it off again. Much better to use plumbers tape or a marine equivalent. Great channel btw - found you in week 2 and have been watching your progress ever since. One last thought, three weeks till launch is crazy optimistic. I'm hoping to get my boat in by the second week of May and my to-do punch list is puny compared with yours. Best of Luck!!! I'll be rooting for you!
I truely hope that your solution with the exhaust pipe works, but I think it could be a big problem for you. If it leaks fumes into the cabin, it could be deadly and if you survive, you will have to take the interior apart to get at it. Good luck.
@@mick8137 How do you get by in life? You do know that diesel engines run on fossil fuel don't you? Carbon monoxide is a product produced by fossil fuels when burned. If you breathe in the fumes, it will eventually kill you.
You should buy yourself a needle scaler. Since you have an air compressor this should not be to expensive. It is handy for rust and welding. Makes life a lot easier.
@My First Boat *_ Being in the Metal industry for over 50 yrs (I'm 72) I would seriously recommend using a Metal Scaler (Needle Hammer) to properly remove that RUST ... Take a look at this and perhaps hire one from your local Tool Hire Shop, Thay ARE available in Electric & Battery powered: _*
This is way my favourite boat channel still , nice one.....I would take advice about using the needler and the rust converter... i use hydrate80 for my classic cars and let me tell you it's not infallible..bit late know for much of this but removing as much as possible has to be better..the tin worm has way of making you cry.
Great progress, again. Remember that Owatrol Oil is not a rust converter, merely a sealant. It would be better to use something like Fertan to convert rust, then grind it away and do some lead loading where the steel got very thin. This will also prevent further corrosion. Owatrol on an exhaust pipe is not going to work, better convert the rust and spray with a heat-resistant inox spray (for welding). I also wonder if the filler you use is going to last as it is very hard and will have a different thermal expansion so eventually may crack when the steel warms up in the sun.
Look into getting a pneumatic needle scaler. Gets that rust in the corners and it doesn't create a lot of dust comparitively speaking. Much more efficient and effective than a screwdriver. Use hearing protection!!
Some of the items you removed (drain pipe, little shelf) had a purpose at one time. Especially with the drain. it will be interesting to see how you deal with the issue it was put in for in the first place. I understand your not wanting to weld the new metal replacement (future rust?) but wonder why you didn't put in a pvc replacement. Think you're doing a great job and enjoy seeing how you do it.
You know something else that would help with that pipe, a sanding belt,a good drill and making a wheel for the drill. Turn the belt sand side in, get it over the pipe and use the drill and wheel to turn it to sand that hard to reach spot, takes a little practice but works.
A woodwork file is called a rasp.A heavy duty file used on metal work is called a bastard file,some bastard files can be 600mm long.I enjoyed my woodwork and metalwork classes in school.You have done a lot of muscle burning work on the boat i am sure she will look lovely when she is finished.Finding that pair of cutters under the woodwork after being there after 43 years,if the owner was watching he would be oh so that's where i left them LOL,now i remember.
For rusted out corners a thin rod laid all around and weld- melted in place would fill the corner up with a nice fillet. Nope. The holes are too big. Great accomplishment, by the way.
Great viewing as an ex merchant seaman I would get a small needle gun for chipping the rust handy in some awkward areas but you would need a compressor
Fascinating! I’m hooked. Great soundtrack too.
You’re video’s are quite therapeutic, thank you for sharing!
I am astonished at the amount of effort needed to do all these repairs! This must be truly a labor of love! I always look forward to these videos...to me they are really interesting and instructive. Thanks as always.
What I always find really nice to do when patching holes. is using a holessaw to cut out nice round disks, then using the holesaw to enlarge holes that need patching. And with the disk you have a perfectly fitting piece of metal. Clean, quick and easy. you could use a piece of wood as backing to use for centering the holesaw
Also way faster than drilling wholes and then cutting it out and getting the square to fit,
Just an idea, keep up the good work tho, really entertaining to watch
You are brave, skillful and full of determination. I am in process of building similar boat -- 43 feet -- near Warsaw ,PL. Good luck.
Use Teflon Tape for sealing the treads. Put it on clockwise and wrap the male threads several times. It’ll work well. It’ll also allow easy removal if you ever need to take the valve off
I agree, you can see in the video a few strands of Teflon tape still on the pipe threads, so my guess is it worked well enough for the previous owner(s).
Probably one of the most interesting series on UA-cam just now. Great content. Awesome watching this come together. You’re going to have a great boat at the end. 😀🤙
Love this channel just found it 2 days ago and been watching it non stop
With all due respect. Rust converter will only slow down rust for a very short time (months not years), especially on a boat. Complete removal of rust and welding new metal where needed is the only long term repair. The exhaust pipe is also rusty on the inside. Sandblasting is the best method.
Yeah that fibreglass ain't gunna last long.
He should use teflon plumber tape that is good
Is that oil like phosphoric acid? only oil based instead of water based like Ospho???? I have never seen the stuff. I have had good luck stopping rust where it is using silicone tire shine, which is good at wiking down between layers of rust, but then not much will stick to it in terms of paints or fiberglass; Though I didn't think much would stick to any sort of oil either! Anyway, I think I agree about the holes needing to be welded, unless you can use sealants like that tire shine after fiberglassing to seal moisture out from getting under the patches, rusting the metal underneath, which then pries off the patches as it expands.
Indeed his is repairing his boat like a car that has to hold for another 2 years with a lot of luck.
@@paulmills3418 Teflon is no good on hot pipes like for steam heating or in this case, engine exhaust
For those corner I think you should try a needle gun. We used for the corners of our diesel tank and it works sooo good!! 😅
I was going to recommend the same thing. Mine works great.
As much as I’m enjoying this guys renovation, I wish he’d take the same approach as you guys have on your boat, with your do it properly the first time and do it nice haha
@@Luke-2153 and never put the boat in the water...
Needle does work but a chisel attachment instead of needles pulls up those flakes much better
I am so impressed! With all the work you have to do, you approach each job as if it's the only job you have to do.
looks fabulous, keep going. 💛👍👍🛥
Delightful commentary.
As others have mentioned, when rust gets to the point where you can flake it off in chunks, and/or has eaten through a substantial portion of the steel, and/or has eaten holes in the steel, the ONLY safe and effective repair method is to cut it out all of the way back to sound steel and weld in suitable repair material. Rust converters are intended for surfaces where you are treating the minor pitting left from removing surface rust, and fiberglass is intended to be applied to a clean, sound, rust-and-oil free surface. What you are doing is the same as a doctor putting an adhesive bandage on a malignant cancer and calling it cured because you can no longer see it.
Simple rule for any rust.. if it's black, it's coming back
So true, this part is more a "how not to restore your boat" :-) You did such a nice job the earlier stages. I worked a lot on old cars and the only good way is cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Important for boats, it must be from the right grade (In this case maritime grade steel, but most important, the same type the hull is made from) All other solutions are temporary and even can speed up the rust (has to do with chemical and electrical effects, like a zink-anode reduces rust on steel parts)
What I often prefer to do is first cut a piece of steel, outline it on the hull and then cut that form out of the hull.
Three simple techniques to improve your stick welding. 1: Get a head mounted helmet, It will leave your left hand free for #2.
2: Use your left hand to steady the rod at the weld puddle. 3: Preheat your rods to remove moisture. A rod oven will reduce splatter, cracking and porosity. A common toaster oven will substitute for a commercial unit ( starting at $100 ).
Recommend you do a pressure test on that exhaust line. Plug both ends and test with just a few inches of water pressure. Just to be sure no leaks, carbon monoxide is bad stuff. Also we used rectorseal which is a liquid Teflon sealant. Great stuff
The rust around the bridge? windows, needs cutting out and replacing, while on that subject check your windows, all those hot sparks flying off when grinding can stick in the glass, soon as you use the boat and get any condensation it will rust, good progress keep going its starting to come together.
Your welding is starting to look great - as I started by saying - you have to crawl before you can walk - continue the good work, think it will be a super boat
Another great video on the work carried out.
Welding and cutting skills improving each time. :)
Clear concise narration with good video of work in progress. Beyond that, I have no clue whether or not you're doing the right things....
Good work showing great results.
I really enjoy this series, I just enjoy how you get on and do things your way. Hello from the UK
And he will be doing it all again as what is doing is not going to last a year.
@@philup4947 and that isn't your problem so let him enjoy it.
@@pcat1378 You are right but doing it poorly and putting it out knowing other uneducated people will follow is wrong and your comment does not help.
@@philup4947 His boat so he can do with it as he pleases.
@@MegaDirtyberty You are right but maybe he should keep his shitty methods to himself.
Your welding is getting better, it looks much better!
New to this channel. Absolutely amazing and well presented!
Great video just love it when the notification pops up. Had a busy day today and this is just what I needed. Keep up the good work it’s going to look amazing when it’s done. 👍
Thru hull fitting, a good Teflon tejp works great
Respect for all the work!
Just started to see your project love watching it I think you're doing very well,I spent time in your country in l1978 when I was in army and loved it and the people I'm from the UK
He is doing a very poor job these repars will not last.
your welding is improving sehr gut.
you are doiing great. It's a lot of work!
This is where a needle gun would come in real handy. It's a noisy tool, ear plugs and ear muffs are a must but it sure gets rid of rust.
Your doing a great job, thanks for sharing
I think you're doing a good job, I live in Wyoming, so I never really get to see boats that big. Pretty awesome.
excellent progress...nice job on the hatch too.
So good your welds are now!
Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
excellent work, you're doing so well. take care.
Whatever you paid for that angle grinder, it has paid for itself many times over! Great content.
Listen to the experts, but ask a pertinent question.
Did they ever take on a task this size at your age?
Nah! they were still perfecting and honing their trade skills
You don't have many skills but you are determined and along with your enthusiasm
you will get there. I enjoy your efforts
.
Regards, JM
On the subject of the pipe fittings, the red stuff on there already is called Red Stag pipe jointing compound, it ,as mentioned by another poster can be used in conjunction with p.t.f.e tape or (horse hair) hemp, it's not really horse hair that's just a trade term.
One tip you may not have known is the thermal expansion rates of iron oxide and steel are very different. I use heat to chip heavy flake rust quite regularly. If you do not have a small oxy-acetylene rig, it might be a good time to invest in one. You can start with a small tip and just heat up the rusty area. The flakes will almost shoot off (wear goggles, etc). It is then ready for wire brush and rusty metal paint.
Giving an idea how to build and improved old boat restoration thats why i subscribed your channel
Great job.
Ptfe thread tape is very good.I used it a lot.
welding getting better
HI from North Wales UK. Time maybe short but please do not cut corners to get there.................... You will regret it. Good luck with your build and I look forward to the next one!
Looking good! No alternative to cutting out those window sills and welding in new sills. I'd hire someone to do that job.
Well done! Very interesting to follow your hard work!
I did that on my van...tried everything...eventually the rust won and sank my van...I bought a brand new one and am much happier now....Nice channel!
I LOVE THE SEACHLIGHT KEEP IT its way cool I want one
but there will be LED ones available now with far greater Lumens and different fittings...less wattage also.
@@deadkemper yes I know just put led instead of old bulb in this retro light that's it's beauty
@@DiscusRussell I suppose you could convert it ! Three week still the maiden voyage....lost in fog....i see it now lol
You’re making good progress 👍
Good job!
YOu should look into encapsulating the Balast in epoxy resin blocks to make the extraction easier and keep the corrosion to a minimum.
That seachlight Rocked, You should of kept it Bro as a mometo of how it was before
Yes just put led bulb in its well Retro
And I think you’re going to miss it as well because it can be very handy when docking at night or checking the anchor when at anchor.
A new one like that where I live in the US is $375.00
@@rogerroger7734 Bloody hell press the like button on Brians Post maybe they will take note and put it back on the boat It sure does rock that light
@@DiscusRussell thanks dude I totally forgot to hit like.
Brilliant vlog and very interesting. Taking everything back to empty space and doing the job properly. Good work. If folks are interested there is another guy building a boat ‘One Man and His Boat’ on UA-cam. There are some good tips and interesting videos there as well.
I'm amazed that you still have not started working on the bottom of your boat with only a few weeks left before splash time. All the work I've seen you do so far could have been done after you put the boat in the water.
I would use a pneumatic needle gun to use intight areas to remove rust less dust more noise
The exhaust now looks amazing well after tending to it. Ah I see you used the found pliers from last episode.
Hey buddy, I really like the channel. I know you have already work past that cockpit rust, but you should get a needle gun. It works so much faster. The down side it needs a larger compressor to run it. You are doing great.
Someone please send this man a new welding helmet so he can have his hand back. LOL Nice work Sir. Keep at it.
The exhaust tube is probably is the last thing you want to skimp out on. Not only do you have the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning but you have a source of water to leak in the boat.
A tip for arc welding, keep the electrode consistently at a 45 degree angle to the work piece, that way the flux on the outside of the electrode covers the weld properly
Many years we used a brushable sealant made by Orminoid called Hydraseal ,, its thick, you mix a small amount of petrol to the density you desire and brush it on your fitting ,, the petrol dissolves and leaves t good thick coating on the fittings,,, I've unscrewed 6 inch galvanized under ground irrigation fittings relatively easy after 5 plus years ,,
Good videos, I enjoy them
Okay, is it just me, or is the background music from GTA? I recognize it from running heists and missions...Great videos, btw. Found your channel yesterday, and decided to watch everything in order! You make me want to buy an old boat and stick it in my field as a long term project!
Use PTFE tape for the valve connection. I turn per MM size of the pipe - looks like that is about 25mm as such 25 turns. WInd it on tight and up and down the thread.
you might have to cut out and weld in the rust under the windscreen from out side and use the glass filler inside, which will still be hard but not as hard as welding in that tight space.
Good work!!
Well done you are an inspiration to others, keep going.
While doing engine work, you definitely need to replace the water pump impeller before you put the boat in the water and also replace the belt. Make sure your temperature gauge is working as well. Don't want to overheat the engine. Cheers from Austin, Texas
For cleaning rust from pipe use a chain , one turn round the pipe and pull back and forth. Make it wate tight whith regular pipe stuff not m3 silicone. Lin an some lin greas
Grind the fwd cabin bilge grommet (pipe) away and install a bronze grommet, a lot safer. Iron grommets are the most common cause for ship leaks and loss.
To seal the threads on the shut off valve I would use ptfe tape find it at all plumbers shops
Brass usually does not need plumbers tape
@@kennethhudson8013 yes you can use it but the better way probably boss white and hemp
you should get metal to a bright finish - use a needle type hammer tool to remove all the rust
I have used rust-oleum rust metal primer for years which has fish oil in the ingredients that help force out moisture. Leave exposed with primer before top coating.
Hi, in case a compressor is available : I would suggest a needle scaler which I know from seafaring - helps great against rost and paint ;)
KEEP UP WITH GREAT JOB
Whoops. Nice work on the hatches. To hell with the nay sayers. You'll have the boat ready to live in. The things you may need to retouch can BE saved for the future,. Enjoy. I envy you.
Fanboy wanker
Bondo is a great surface finisher for finishing over fiber coat.
At 3:37 - whatever you do, DO NOT USE 5200! 5200 will make a permanent and unbreakable bond with the fitting and you will never get it off again. Much better to use plumbers tape or a marine equivalent.
Great channel btw - found you in week 2 and have been watching your progress ever since. One last thought, three weeks till launch is crazy optimistic. I'm hoping to get my boat in by the second week of May and my to-do punch list is puny compared with yours. Best of Luck!!! I'll be rooting for you!
I truely hope that your solution with the exhaust pipe works, but I think it could be a big problem for you. If it leaks fumes into the cabin, it could be deadly and if you survive, you will have to take the interior apart to get at it. Good luck.
It’s a Diesel engine it won’t be deadly if it leaks
@@mick8137
How do you get by in life? You do know that diesel engines run on fossil fuel don't you? Carbon monoxide is a product produced by fossil fuels when burned. If you breathe in the fumes, it will eventually kill you.
You should buy yourself a needle scaler. Since you have an air compressor this should not be to expensive. It is handy for rust and welding. Makes life a lot easier.
@My First Boat *_ Being in the Metal industry for over 50 yrs (I'm 72) I would seriously recommend using a Metal Scaler (Needle Hammer) to properly remove that RUST ... Take a look at this and perhaps hire one from your local Tool Hire Shop, Thay ARE available in Electric & Battery powered: _*
Use loctite 577 for piping threads.maybe rent a needle gun to remove all the rust.
This is way my favourite boat channel still , nice one.....I would take advice about using the needler and the rust converter...
i use hydrate80 for my classic cars and let me tell you it's not infallible..bit late know for much of this but removing as much as possible has to be better..the tin worm has way of making you cry.
You need to be introduced to the chipping hammer. Its the tool Navy goes to for rust removal..
Plumbing tape is ideal,but I would also put on that 500 as a precaution.
3:49 teflon tape for water tight pipe connections. The other method is Pipe dope.
Great progress, again.
Remember that Owatrol Oil is not a rust converter, merely a sealant. It would be better to use something like Fertan to convert rust, then grind it away and do some lead loading where the steel got very thin. This will also prevent further corrosion. Owatrol on an exhaust pipe is not going to work, better convert the rust and spray with a heat-resistant inox spray (for welding).
I also wonder if the filler you use is going to last as it is very hard and will have a different thermal expansion so eventually may crack when the steel warms up in the sun.
Look into getting a pneumatic needle scaler. Gets that rust in the corners and it doesn't create a lot of dust comparitively speaking. Much more efficient and effective than a screwdriver. Use hearing protection!!
Satisfying....
Some of the items you removed (drain pipe, little shelf) had a purpose at one time. Especially with the drain. it will be interesting to see how you deal with the issue it was put in for in the first place. I understand your not wanting to weld the new metal replacement (future rust?) but wonder why you didn't put in a pvc replacement. Think you're doing a great job and enjoy seeing how you do it.
You know something else that would help with that pipe, a sanding belt,a good drill and making a wheel for the drill. Turn the belt sand side in, get it over the pipe and use the drill and wheel to turn it to sand that hard to reach spot, takes a little practice but works.
A woodwork file is called a rasp.A heavy duty file used on metal work is called a bastard file,some bastard files can be 600mm long.I enjoyed my woodwork and metalwork classes in school.You have done a lot of muscle burning work on the boat i am sure she will look lovely when she is finished.Finding that pair of cutters under the woodwork after being there after 43 years,if the owner was watching he would be oh so that's where i left them LOL,now i remember.
Glad you are wearing PPE's. That orange paint might be lead based.
thxs
Loctite 577 liquid sealant will allow you to seal the valves. Or use PTFE tape. But i would go with Loctite 577. its bullet proof once set.
I'll go with that, I have used it many times and have never had any problems.
I would be concerned that you now have two dissimilar metals in contact. Someone who is more experienced with marine matters should be consulted.
@@suburban404 yes don't mix metals and if you use brass make sure it's DZR (corrosion resistant).
No 5200! Clean threads and Teflon tape and tighten. Or pipe dope if you really want. Best of luck. Enjoying your renovation!
For rusted out corners a thin rod laid all around and weld- melted in place would fill the corner up with a nice fillet. Nope. The holes are too big. Great accomplishment, by the way.