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Display codes without a scan tool, 2010 Subaru WRX
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2016
- In this video I show you how to pull codes from a 2010 Subaru WRX without a OBD2 code reader. This should work for many Subarus 2007 - 2012, not just the WRX.
This car has codes:
P0073 - Ambient air temp sensor high input? Of course, ITS HOT!
C0057
C0072
C0047
This only happens when the outside air temp is above 95F or so. The car will randomly throw the code while driving. It will go away after 5 warm up cycles or if I clear the ECU with my reader or of course disconnecting the battery.
I do have an Optima Redtop battery in the car which I am not at all impressed with. This is the second one as the first one failed within 6 months. I have not tried a battery tester on it, however with the old battery the voltage never dropped below 13.8 on the cars electrical system with the car running. With the Redtop in place I will see voltages as low as 12.7 in hot weather and that is when I seem to throw the codes. If the engine rpm dips, like when coming to a stop, the voltage droops and BOOM codes. I will have to do a battery test at work on a very hot day and see if it fails.
Tried this at home. Managed to do it, but not before unlocking two new characters and a special combo.
Ha! That's a good one.
Went to different mechanics for this damn issue nobody knew this ur a legend bro now I know I gotta change my o2 sensors
I'm literally on vacation in my 2009 Forester and this video has given me peace of mind. Good old P0420. Thank you for putting this trick out there!
Hey thanks for watching... glad I could help. You get this figured out? Could just be a sensor issue or an exhaust leak.
@@spdwebdotnet using a tool that goes by the name "e-scan" I have determined that the single catalytic converter is borderline bad. Looking at the downstream voltage readings on the highway I tend to agree with it
@@TheTech9 Its a toss up on that one. I generally replace the down stream sensor first, unless there is something else obviously wrong. I've actually never had a CAT go bad on any of my vehicles, (the ones that still had them :) but I have had a few wonky sensors below threshold.
That was brilliant, worked on my 2007 outback (only turn fog lights on though not full beam)
Piers Throssell Thanks for the comment! Just something I came across and thought was cool so I posted it. Can't even remember who showed it to me now.
Thank you for being awesome
my guy you just helped me save so much money by making this video thank you so much!!!
Glad to hear it man.
thanks for this video worked first time !! i got 45 47 57 codes. 😆
Thanks for the video, mate. Worked on my MY08 Impreza RX.
Is your cruise light blinking constantly with the check engine light on?Mine has that problem, and I cannot figure it out... Any tips?
You will have to pull the stored codes to see what the problem is... or what the ECU is "suggesting" the problem is... gives you a good starting point. Once you get the codes you can clear the ECU by disconnecting the negative (black) battery terminal from the battery, and either turning the key or stepping on the brakes to release any residual power left in the system though that last step is probably not needed if you leave the cable disconnect for 10min or longer. See if the problem returns. Depending on the failure mode your car is probably running in open loop mode which runs basic fuel maps and functions. The cruse control will not work until you clear the codes/fix the issue causing them.
Thanks. Worked on my SH5 Forester
Great video, 05 outback xt, had to disconnect battery for extended period, due some work I was doing.
Is there a way to get rid of er iu code other than dealership reinstalling crap.
Car runs great just have the aggravating code.
I have a 2012 impreza. I have the trip button and the info button. Also, I have an auto setting between on and off for the headlights. I've tried different combinations and nothing works. Anyone else have any luck?
My 2009 Subaru Imprezza R is showing traction control, engine light, and cruise is blinking. However, I tried this, and now showing three codes: P0420, C0047, C0057, I noticed My car missing an air intake duct for the car air filter... that might be the reason for this... but not sure. Please, help me out if you know anything about this.
Hey thanks for viewing.. curious, do you notice your engine rpm dip sometimes when coming to a stop, or the engine surges under light throttle when you are holding the pedal steady? Do you recall how the vehicle acted exactly when the lights came on?
Hi, I replaced my 2014 Subaru Crosstrek wheel bearing ( left front ) then I did test drive. Looks everything okey after that ABS light traction control and hill assist light on. Also Engine light on to engine code is p0500 ABS code is C1222 I changed wheel bearing again ( moog brand ) nothing happen then I changed ABS sensor still same... I didn't figure out ! Do you have any idea ? thank you
I can only assume, since this happened directly after the wheel bearing was replaced, that this may be a clue. Check all the wiring down to the wheel sensor starting with the factory wiring in the wheel well. Check the connector over real well. Look for bent pins in the plug, crimped or cut wires. Possibly (but unlikely) debris blocking thr senson from the pickup ring in the hub. Both those codes are speed sensor codes and directly related to the wheel speed sensor. There is a sensor on each hub. Thanks for viewing!
Cool light black magic!!
Do you know how to reed codes on 2012 and newer subarus?
Thank you so much
Doesn't work on 2011 outback. Mine just came up with 2 dashes... But my dash had been lit up like a Christmas tree for 80k miles lol...
Any idea if this works on a 2015 impreza? Or is there another way? I can't seem to get it to work
Hello , I have a 2016 Subaru wrx sti when i turn the car on wen it’s cold it shakes a lot rpms go to 1.5k than as the car starts warming up it drops to like 800 with no more shaking is that normal ?
Thanks for viewing. No check engine light on or blinking? Any modifications done? 1.5k is correct for warmup. Do you have access to a code reader? If you can hook a decent code reader up that has live data you can check some parameters. Boxers tend to vibrate some... I wouldn't consider that "shaking" though. Generally a rhythmic shake.. which you would be able to see if you pop the hood and look at the engine would be an indication of a weak fire or misfire on one cylinder. Possibly caused by a fuel issue... incorrect air fuel mixture etc.
I did it man ur a legend
Would engine check light turn off if you change out the ambient air temperature sensor? Or do we have to manually turn it off?
If you have a p0070 code it should clear once the problem is corrected.. it may take a few start/warmup cycles to clear.
Happened to me. Reflash ECU at Subaru dealership for free. Engine is fine and does not over heat but this happens. This is a recall. I have a 2011 STi limited.
Thank you!
I have a 2008 impreza 1.5r and it works..! My codes are P0500 and P0037. Any idea how to clear the engine check light? Thanks
Francisco Andres Gomez Saavedra You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes or so. For good measure once you disconnect the terminal, turn the ignition on to drain any residual power in the system. If there is still a problem with the car however, the light will come back on.
Let me add something... once you do reset the ECU it will have to relearn idle. I usually start the car and let it sit and run for 10 minutes or so without touching the throttle. You can then drive, easily at first, to let it relearn all the parameters.
Thanks a lot. I will try it .
My subaru legacy 2006 has the interior dome light flashing, the remote lock/unlock doesn't work any ideas on what the problem is?
Sorry I didnt see this until now. Id start with door switches.. If there is a lose wire or a bad switch this would cause the dome light to flash on and off as the vehicle would perceive the door being opened and closed, this would also have an affect on the remote lock and unlock as it wont work when a door or hatch is opened.
@@spdwebdotnet Found out what the problem was, the problem was that there were 2 white diagnostic connectors plugged together below the fuse box under the steering wheel ,by a quack mechanic. Unplugging the connectors everything went back to normal and worked fine
How is this done on a subaru impreza 2016?
i will try this for fun
2011 outback not work
BRILLIANT!!!!
Did u eventually found out what C0047 and C0057 are caused by ( both of them point to VDC ) ... i have the same code and also C0071 which is Steering Sensor and also connected with the VDC ..
.
Hello and thanks for viewing. I never did actually fix this problem. It happened to me so infrequently that I just cleared the codes and went on. Only happened on very very hot days if the car sat in the sun. What I surmised was happening was a loss of communication due to a wiring issue.. IE: Some connector somewhere was expanding in the heat causing a momentary loss of connection. I believe their is a TSB on this but I'm not sure.
@@spdwebdotnet thank you man
Works on a 2008 Legacy
I have an ‘11 WRX STI hatchback.
I was driving down the road at about 45 and the radio started skipping, then lights flashed, and I clutched and slowed down, turning on my hazards, the engine sounded like it was shutting off and on, but there wasn’t much RPM loss, it would flutter, and then it started back.
The radio was reset. The clock on the dash was reset. And I went ahead and pulled it into a gas station, I shut her down. And waited about three minutes. And she started right back up.
She had past codes thrown. But they were resolved. And my buddy looked for new codes. No new codes.
Could it be wiring? I purchased this car and it has aftermarket radio.
The other thing... This is funny. The gas keeps going down and I can’t seem to keep it full.... (I really enjoy this car).
Sounds electrical for the most part there. The gas gauge is reading low or it's actually just burning through fuel? Will it let you put more gas in it when it's reading low? If not that sounds like there's something wrong with your gauge. Also probably electrical if you're having other problems as well. After you sort those out you should reset the ECU to be safe.
@@kylejeanfreau9565 The fuel part was only meant as a joke. (Can’t keep it full hehe) the other was electrical. I sat down with it, cleaned off the battery terminals and it works like a champ now. (But still just can’t keep that tank full)
@@kylejeanfreau9565 Thank you for your reply by the way!! I did reset ECU. And ran codes. It did not throw any codes. Have a good one! :)
Awesome!! Shit worked for me didn't need dam scanner!! Thanks!!
Sweet man... I dunno what other Subarus this works on. I tried it on my cousins Forester but he didnt have any stored codes so... I would assume it works on other models.
Wat culd i do to not get this again
I hope this works for my 03 wrx! cuz my obd won't connect to any scanners:(
Let me know if it does.. I 'believe' I have tried it on an older car and it didnt work.. BUT.. thats not saying the routine isn't still there.. just a different order. Might have to google that one.
didn't work
i have the same problem but i have the code po137
Will this work in 2016 forester?
It works on 2010 model 😊
how do you reset it without turning key to acc position each time?
matt conroy Reset the ECU completely? I just disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10min. Step on the brake to drain any residual energy in the system. That will reset everything. If you have a problem though the light will just come back on right away.
is that regular temp? a hair above mid, is that normal?
You are speaking of the engine coolant temperature I assume? Usually it sits right in the center of the gauge. I also have a scan tool (scan gauge 2) that sits up on the dash which displays coolant temperature, boost/vac, intake air temp, and voltage. I've never seen the coolant temp above 190F. The temperature I am speaking of in this video is outside ambient air temperature. When it gets above 95F outside, and the car sits it will throw a code when you start it.
spdwebdotnet yea i just bought a wtx 2012 40,000 miles and it sits in the middle or an hair above like a hair nothing crazy up just wana make sure its fine
Raymond Camacho Yep that's spot on. The gauge in the cluster there is just to give you a general idea that everything is OK.. it's by no means real accurate. Still better then just a light in my opinion. As long as it comes up somewhere in the middle and stays steady you are fine. It's when you see it rise and fall you may have some troubles developing. Sticking thermostat, water pump etc.
I only have the c0057
2011 wrx
@@aidantaylor4149 Thats a VDC code I believe.. the most common thing would be an ABS wheel sensor communication issue. The codes I got there were related to heat somehow and only happend on very hot days if the car was sitting out. I simply reset the ECU and lived with it. The 57 code alone could be a failed wheel sensor. I can not recall how easy they are to replace in that vehicle. Some are very easy to replace, 1 bolt and they slide right out, others are built into the wheel hub and require some disassembly to get to. Id try resetting the ECU and see if it comes back, if it is persistent then its could be as simple as a dirty sensor. A scan tool may be able to give you more incite of exactly which one is giving trouble. There is one in each hub.
Oh my god buy a honda
1984 Acura Integra, 1991 Civic DX Hatch, 1992 Accord EX, 1998 Civic EX, 1999 Civic DX, 2001 Accord LX, 2003 Accord EX-L V6, 2008 Honda Fit Sport.. Ive owned more Hondas then Subaru's. Enjoy them very much. Still have my vintage 1975 CB360 motorcycle
@@spdwebdotnet i love you
@@spdwebdotnet stop boxin and start knockin
I agree..I won't buy another Subaru ever
@Steede Dsrree yes I made a switch from Acura to Subaru.Never again
subaru crap cars 49 ooo miles and lots of problems