@codybrown4720 so what was your original problem? I'd love for one of them to unlock with the key fob. This van has been a nightmare but I never worked on my cars until I got this one and learned a ton because of it. So it's been a blessing in disguise
The original problem was the passenger door in this video. My driver side has since started doing it too and I fixed it the same way, except using a yellow wire instead of blue. My side door I haven't cared to fix since it doesn't bother me enough yet haha
The remote will still work if you keep the black wire connected and just splice in the end of the thin black/blue wire to the black ground wire. The end of the the black blue wire that goes to the lock just goes to the door sensor that you’re bypassing so it no longer matters. You just want to connect the end of the black/blue wire (end that goes to the car)to ground, without interrupting the normal path of the ground wire. Then you won’t need to manually lock the door. Also note: for drivers side door it’s a thin 22gauge black/yellow wire.
Really appreciate this comment. Wasn’t sure which of the black/yellow wires was the correct one on the drivers side before reading this. What an easy fix to such an annoying problem!
I can’t figure the passenger side door. I did the driver side and it work for a while. It’s acting up again and can’t figure out why or how it’s keeping from locking. I tried grounding the thin blue and black and the rest of the cables one by one till I see any changes and had nothing. Any suggestions?
ATTENTION!!This problem may be because one of the 3 doors has a bad sensor and the dashboard reads it as if it were open. In my case the problem was with the Rear door. In order to do the bonding it is a little more complicated because there are 6 cables and They are exactly the same color (black). So, what I did was: Scrape a metal part of the rear door and anchor or drill a hole to screw in a screw with a cable, this will be my Ground. Afterwards, I disconnected the connector with the 6 cables from the rear door and made contact with each wire until the fuse burns. You will know what I have done because the remote control will not work. Then I went to the vehicle's dashboard and left it on and the door light was still on, so I made contact with each wire of the connector until I found the cable that turns off the door open light on the rear door. Once you find it, you just cut it and join it to the ground cable that you had already screwed to the metal of the door. Then you just replace the fuse number 163, it is 20 amps. This fuse is located on the driver's side, in the third row, it is the fourth fuse from the right to the left. Once you replace it, the remote control will work to close the doors.
Hi I’m having this issues with my van I did it before on my drive side and now it’s acting up again. I did the passenger side I had no result on the light going off. My rear door has 8 pins I tried both ways and had nothing the light was still on I can hear the fuse going but can’t get rid of the door ajar icon on my dash. Any suggestions?
I’m having this issue and I can figure out what door it’s having this issue. I bypass the sensor on the driver side but can’t figure out on the rest of the door. I tried all the wire combinations even the rear door with the 8 pin to ground and light still on. Please help!!
@@timothytech1for the drivers side you need to connect the thin 22 gauge black/yellow wire to ground. You want to just connect the end that goes to the car to ground by splicing it into a ground wire. You don’t want to disconnect the black wire like he did in the video, just splice it in so that the black yellow wire is grounded. You want the black wire to continue on its normal path though. Then the remote will still work and you won’t need to manually lock anything.
Dude ty so much for this, been fighting this problem. Especially having to reqch back and manually unlock the sliding doors
Yeah, you're welcome man. I also have to manually unlock one of my sliding doors. Although sometimes it decides to work
@codybrown4720 so what was your original problem? I'd love for one of them to unlock with the key fob. This van has been a nightmare but I never worked on my cars until I got this one and learned a ton because of it. So it's been a blessing in disguise
The original problem was the passenger door in this video. My driver side has since started doing it too and I fixed it the same way, except using a yellow wire instead of blue. My side door I haven't cared to fix since it doesn't bother me enough yet haha
But yeah it's my first car I've worked on too actually
The remote will still work if you keep the black wire connected and just splice in the end of the thin black/blue wire to the black ground wire. The end of the the black blue wire that goes to the lock just goes to the door sensor that you’re bypassing so it no longer matters. You just want to connect the end of the black/blue wire (end that goes to the car)to ground, without interrupting the normal path of the ground wire. Then you won’t need to manually lock the door. Also note: for drivers side door it’s a thin 22gauge black/yellow wire.
Really appreciate this comment. Wasn’t sure which of the black/yellow wires was the correct one on the drivers side before reading this. What an easy fix to such an annoying problem!
I can’t figure the passenger side door. I did the driver side and it work for a while. It’s acting up again and can’t figure out why or how it’s keeping from locking. I tried grounding the thin blue and black and the rest of the cables one by one till I see any changes and had nothing. Any suggestions?
I absolutely ❤ you for this I've been slamming my door for years like to where I didn't even wanna drive it 😊😊😊😊
@@stonerbug007 I'm happy I could help
Looks good.
But how did you find out it was the passenger door?
I have a 2010 ford transit connect...
ATTENTION!!This problem may be because one of the 3 doors has a bad sensor and the dashboard reads it as if it were open. In my case the problem was with the Rear door. In order to do the bonding it is a little more complicated because there are 6 cables and They are exactly the same color (black). So, what I did was: Scrape a metal part of the rear door and anchor or drill a hole to screw in a screw with a cable, this will be my Ground. Afterwards, I disconnected the connector with the 6 cables from the rear door and made contact with each wire until the fuse burns. You will know what I have done because the remote control will not work. Then I went to the vehicle's dashboard and left it on and the door light was still on, so I made contact with each wire of the connector until I found the cable that turns off the door open light on the rear door. Once you find it, you just cut it and join it to the ground cable that you had already screwed to the metal of the door. Then you just replace the fuse number 163, it is 20 amps. This fuse is located on the driver's side, in the third row, it is the fourth fuse from the right to the left. Once you replace it, the remote control will work to close the doors.
Hi I’m having this issues with my van I did it before on my drive side and now it’s acting up again. I did the passenger side I had no result on the light going off. My rear door has 8 pins I tried both ways and had nothing the light was still on I can hear the fuse going but can’t get rid of the door ajar icon on my dash. Any suggestions?
I’m having this issue and I can figure out what door it’s having this issue. I bypass the sensor on the driver side but can’t figure out on the rest of the door. I tried all the wire combinations even the rear door with the 8 pin to ground and light still on. Please help!!
Are the wires only on the passenger side?
The wire colors are different on the driver's side. Can someone tell me how to bypass that lock?
If you still have to manually lock the passenger door when you leave the vehicle… what’s the point of doing this?
Because it is easy to lock.
My thoughts. Still not a fix in my mind
Because before the fix I couldn't lock the door at all@@sethdawg
Their is no blue wire with black stripe on the drivers side please help
On the driver's side I connected the yellow with black stripe wire to the solid black wire and it worked. Good luck!
@codybrown4720 thank you
There are two black wires on driver side. Which one?
all the you need to do its just put the black and blue wire to -chasis graund
Are the wires only on the passenger side>
@@wbrill0000 I've never looked at the drivers side, but I would assume it's identical.
@@codybrown4720 It's not.Wire colors are different. I wish I knew the bypass for the driver's side.
@@timothytech1for the drivers side you need to connect the thin 22 gauge black/yellow wire to ground. You want to just connect the end that goes to the car to ground by splicing it into a ground wire. You don’t want to disconnect the black wire like he did in the video, just splice it in so that the black yellow wire is grounded. You want the black wire to continue on its normal path though. Then the remote will still work and you won’t need to manually lock anything.
@@glasstv5068 Hi! I'm not familiar with ground wire, what are the details? (What to buy and how to do it?) Thank you!