There are numerous vid's on pump removal / install but none covered the timing spacer after install very well done. Now I have it down. Thank You for clear and precise instruction.
How to retime the injection pump?. When I was installing the new injection pump the spacer key was already installed and I was turning the shaft to match the key on the injection pump gear housing (matching the woodroof key location to the 5:30 o'clock position. After that the engine smokes and when I press on the gas pedal the I doesn't increase the speed but instead just make more noise and more white smoke
Yes I was there is a pin that need to be inserted to put the IP inside before installation. Also make sure the engine is on TDP for the number 1 cylinder@@DeathrowSvt
Is using the timing lock only for new pumps? I rebuilt my engine and when putting my pump back on my timing lock on the pump was loose and the washer key was missing. I also had to rotate my pump’s gear when it was on the shaft in order to time it correctly. My truck has consistent white exhaust now and I’m guessing it’s something to do with my timing. Do you know where I can find one of those washer key things?
You should be able to find them online. Anytime the pump or the timing gears are removed, it's a good idea to lock the timing on the truck side and the pump side. There's also marks on the gears to help align it, if you have the front cover off
There's a sheer pin on the pump and a keyway in the timing gear. It can only install correctly on time. The only thing to worry about is the timing of the gear itself
There should be two identical dots on the gear teeth that should line up if not then youll have to find TDC on the engine then see what line shoots at what degree to the circular motion of the main shaft to the pump
It shouldn't be hard to set to TDC yourself. I believe there's a mark on the pump to set the input shaft to? There's also only one way to install the pump gear correctly as well, and the gear has the timing marks as well
@@jamminmechanics I did check the timing at the gear and it is correct, I just noticed that mark on the pump so we locked the shaft right on the mark. Set the engine and pump to TDC then installed it without a problem. We bled the lines multiple times and the engines is at least better than before. Now it smokes and spits trying to start but won't run. Still quite a bit of air in the lines, I get bubbles out of some of the lines so not sure if that's a sign of the pump being messed up or just need to keep bleeding? Thanks for the reply
@@legendarygamer6765 You probably still have air in the lines. Took a long time to get the air out of them on my 12v. You need loosen the lines right at the injectors and keep priming them until clean fuel is spraying out without and bubbles
@@jamminmechanics Prime them buy just turning it over? Or by pumping the fuel pump on the block. I've done both and the fuel pump loses pressure after pumping it 3-4 times. It is a brand new pump as well.
There are numerous vid's on pump removal / install but none covered the timing spacer after install very well done. Now I have it down. Thank You for clear and precise instruction.
Thanks for the video! I am in the middle of replacing all the seals on my engine. I Painted my block the same color!
That engine sure does look good! Thanks for the video.
How to retime the injection pump?. When I was installing the new injection pump the spacer key was already installed and I was turning the shaft to match the key on the injection pump gear housing (matching the woodroof key location to the 5:30 o'clock position. After that the engine smokes and when I press on the gas pedal the I doesn't increase the speed but instead just make more noise and more white smoke
Did you ever figure this out I’m having the same problems but I can’t get my 12v swap to start at all
Yes I was there is a pin that need to be inserted to put the IP inside before installation. Also make sure the engine is on TDP for the number 1 cylinder@@DeathrowSvt
So clean
Is using the timing lock only for new pumps?
I rebuilt my engine and when putting my pump back on my timing lock on the pump was loose and the washer key was missing.
I also had to rotate my pump’s gear when it was on the shaft in order to time it correctly. My truck has consistent white exhaust now and I’m guessing it’s something to do with my timing.
Do you know where I can find one of those washer key things?
You should be able to find them online. Anytime the pump or the timing gears are removed, it's a good idea to lock the timing on the truck side and the pump side. There's also marks on the gears to help align it, if you have the front cover off
But how do you time the injection pump to the engine to make it run?
There's a sheer pin on the pump and a keyway in the timing gear. It can only install correctly on time. The only thing to worry about is the timing of the gear itself
There should be two identical dots on the gear teeth that should line up if not then youll have to find TDC on the engine then see what line shoots at what degree to the circular motion of the main shaft to the pump
Nice video!
How many pounds of torque did you use on your second torque for the gear
I bought a used ve pump for my 89. It wasn't left at tdc so do I need to send the pump out to get timed?
It shouldn't be hard to set to TDC yourself. I believe there's a mark on the pump to set the input shaft to? There's also only one way to install the pump gear correctly as well, and the gear has the timing marks as well
@@jamminmechanics I did check the timing at the gear and it is correct, I just noticed that mark on the pump so we locked the shaft right on the mark. Set the engine and pump to TDC then installed it without a problem. We bled the lines multiple times and the engines is at least better than before. Now it smokes and spits trying to start but won't run. Still quite a bit of air in the lines, I get bubbles out of some of the lines so not sure if that's a sign of the pump being messed up or just need to keep bleeding? Thanks for the reply
@@legendarygamer6765 You probably still have air in the lines. Took a long time to get the air out of them on my 12v. You need loosen the lines right at the injectors and keep priming them until clean fuel is spraying out without and bubbles
@@jamminmechanics Prime them buy just turning it over? Or by pumping the fuel pump on the block. I've done both and the fuel pump loses pressure after pumping it 3-4 times. It is a brand new pump as well.
@@legendarygamer6765 yes the lines at the injectors (all 6)
How much do you spend on your motor tu rebuild it
Nice bro if some body don.t know become know
Disque volant moteur plataux