@@two_stroke_or_broke9297 Good question. Hard to say but I imagine some gear oil could travel along the splines and get past the end of the shaft so maybe it doubles as a gear oil seal and a dust seal.
You should be an instructor. This is about the best "How to" video I've ever seen. Love the details and alternate methods/tools to use. If you can't do the job after watching this video. You have no business working on vehicles.
Hey Hector, I appreciate the nice compliment. You will find that all of our videos are very detailed to give the viewer the best chance at success. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I just completed this project on my 98 Tacoma, but mine was for the front shaft seal. All the info from this video still applied though. Once again, Tim's generous contribution to this world has saved the day for me. His attention to detail is second to none and I feel so much more confident going into a project I've never done before after watching his videos. Tim, you are a godsend as far as I'm concerned. Thank you so much for all your time and effort to help others. NOTE: I did struggle with one part of this job, that being the nut removal. On my truck that bugger was cinched down so tight my breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I bought a beefier and longer breaker bar (20in) and it still wouldn't budge! The only way I could break it loose was to set things up so I could get my floor jack under the handle and use the hydraulic power of the jack to lift (and thus turn) the breaker bar enough to bust the nut free. What a relief to finally feel that thing come free!
Thank you for the very nice compliment and thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it very much. I'm happy to know our videos are benefitting you. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman okay I can't find it and the companion flanges are 120 bucks a peice don't want to buy companion flanges for a 15 or 20 dollar dust shield appreciate the reply timmy and good to hear from ya been awhile
I have a 2006 Tacoma trying to change the Front transmission seal. I unbolt the 2 bolts holding up the shaft that's almost in the middle distance. Question - do I need to unbolt the rear shaft bolts at the rear end OR can I pull the front shaft out where seal is sitting without removing the rear shaft bolts. Appreciate your advice thank you. Andrew
The rear shaft is totally separate from the front. If you want to replace the front output shaft seal, you only have to disconnect the front driveshaft from the transfer case.
One trick I read on a Toyota forum and have since used is to take a small drill bit and drill out the dent of the staked nut. Can't do this in every location but it's what I used when I replaced my transfercase seals. Thank you Timmy for another excellent video!
Hey Aaron, drilling out the dent probably wasn't something I would have thought of but I can definitely see that it would work. I was lucky I had the right size screwdrivers that I could wedge between the shaft and the indented section of the nut. Somebody commented you could also just take a small chisel and grind it down to the size you need. Glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Outstanding! Thoughtfully made tutorial. Finding multiple solutions if you don't have professional tools is much appreciated. This is the best how-to I've seen yet. Many thanks, amigo.
Wanted to add an additional option that worked out for me along with the press sleeve and nipple option that Tim gives in the video. I found a piece of muffler/exhaust pipe at my local AutoZone that was the perfect diameter to fit around the new seal it captured the seal and held it in place just like the press sleeve or nipple did in the video. I then just used a piece of 2 x 4 held in place on the one end to drive the seal in evenly. This was inexpensive and worked out great for me although I did noticed that the edges are fairly sharp so I would highly recommend putting some tape or other material around one of the ends to add some padding or cushion to it for when you Are placing it against the seal it won’t bind or cut into the seal causing damage.
I was truly convinced I was going to be forced to open up the entire transfer case... of course Toyota would make this easier and cheaper from replacing on the outside. Thank you for you video. Saved me days and hundreds.
I did not see you mark flange to transfer case, so does it matter on how it goes back on, which then would negate your first markings on the drive shaft, I would think..thks..jc
We did mark the companion flange, but it really doesn't matter. You could bolt it up in another position because the flange isn't part of the balancing of the driveshaft.
@@TimmyTheToolman What I was trying to say is that you marked the companion flange to the yoke . But when you removed the flange from the housing I did not see where you marked the flange to the housing. Did I miss that ? Understand it is not an issue..thks..jc
@@Samson-EC You're welcome JC. Sean and I do our best to answer everyone's questions but some slip by us. We're not some hugely popular channel with so many questions coming in everyday that would make answering them all impossible. I guess it's one of the nice things a smaller automotive channel can offer people.
Thank you for doing this! Would repairing the Front Output Transfer Case Seal be exactly the same process as replacing the Real Output Transfer Case Seal?
Thanks again Mr. Toolman. I was successful in replacing this seal on my 1989 4X4 DLX pickup truck with the w56 tranny. Had a struggle with the long bar method of removing the stake nut. So went to the method of putting the tranny in low gear and it worked like a charm.
Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! You're very welcome. We all started as total amateurs, but the cool thing is auto mechanics can be learned with relative ease. If you put in the time to learn and you invest in tools, you can be just as successful as the professionals. Quite often, the only difference between the professionals and the DIYers is the fact the professionals spent a lot of money to attend a trade school in which they passed tests to get certifications. You don't need certifications to be a good mechanic. Happy Wrenching!
I can't find the dust Shields that protect the seals is that apart of the companion flange and the Transfercase housing ? Not seeing it in the Shop manual in the transfer case section?
Hey Timmy, thanks for making all these 3rd Gen videos! They have been a huge help for me working on my 1999. I'm about to change out this seal on the Front output shaft. You don't mention draining the transfer case or refilling at the end. Is this step not necessary? Why doesn't gear oil come spilling out when you remove the drive shaft?
You're very welcome. Good to know our videos have helped you out. The rear companion flange sits higher than the level of the gear oil so it's not necessary. The front flange does sit below the level of the oil so you would want to drain the transfer case before replacing that seal.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for answering the questions, this question/answer session makes your channel as a SCHOOL. thank you for Mentoring us. God Bless you.
@@MuskDeer-Pk You're very welcome. Taking time to answer people's questions is something that we pride ourselves on. This is a quality that separates us from many Automotive UA-cam channels. We answer the HIGH majority of questions we receive. Happy Wrenching and Learning!
Just did my timing belt kit replacement and had a bad oil leak prior to the fix. When i got down to my front main seal, i was able to remove it with my index finger and thumb! Thanks for the help on this Tim!
Good to hear our video helped you out Hans. I think you commented on the wrong video though. You're talking about a timing belt job and you commented on our Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement video. Anyways, we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Just a heads up the rear output shaft seal part number is now 90311-41020. I just ordered from Toyota and this replaces 90311-41007. Looking forward to using this video as a resource to fix my leaking transfer case seal. Whenever I have an issue with my 4Runner the first place I look for help is Timmy the Toolman's videos!
Hi Olivia, thanks for sharing the information regarding the part number change for the seal. Good to hear we are a resource you like to use for working on your rig. Happy Wrenching!
It's funny, It was just last week I was under my rig for something else and I noticed a drip coming out of my seal. First thought was "shit I don't think Timmy has done a video on that one yet"
nice video..i changed the seal following the instructions. now i have a suspected bearing sound coming from the front transfer drive. can the sprocket drive bearing be changed without taking down the whole transmission?
I'm not 100% sure but I believe you would have to crack open the transfer case to get at that bearing and then for sure you would need a press to get the bearing off the shaft. So, the transfer case needs to come out. The transmission wouldn't need to come out though.
i want to thank you after running around the parts stores getting different size seals your part#s helped alot more than you will ever know 😂😂 2004 tundra double cab 4x4
Hello Timmah! ... well i think i have spotted a weep of either MT transmission or transfer oil on the Gen1 Taco 5VZ... it looks to be somewhere between where the transfer case and R150F transmission mate up... gravity has pooled up a dropping on one of the lowest bolts... I wiped it off and checked a few days later and it was whett again... do you have any videos of what is involved with resealing where those two items attach?, i am taking a gander at the parts diagram and searching for the literature in the FSM pdf i have for more instruction and exploration
It's either the output shaft seal of the manual transmission or the input shaft seal of the transfer case. You'll need to remove the transfer case to investigate. The closest I have to a video for this is our Automatic Transmission Swap series, Part 1, where we show how to remove the transfer case.
Any chance there's a part number for that companion flange washer @ 14:15? Mine was completely missing when I took off the companion flange. Not stuck to the back or anything.
Sorry Steve, I don't know the part number. I suggest you just visit your local Toyota dealer parts department and order it from them. It can't cost that much. The shipping you'd pay from an online seller wouldn't make it worth it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank Timmy, I actually found the answer on Tacoma World. Looks like the part # is 36275-35010 for anyone else searching. Just costs a dollar from the dealer!
is this procedure the same for 1992 toyota pickup i'm like one of your viewers thought it was the rear but it ends been the transfer case output shaft seal?
I'm guessing it would be similar but I can't say for sure. I've never done this job on a 92 pickup. For sure you should make sure you get the correct seals. I also don't know if the part numbers are the same.
Replacing the input shaft seal on the transfer case is totally different. To get to that seal, the transfer case would have to be removed from the vehicle. I've never replaced one but I'm guessing it's similar to replacing the input shaft seal on a manual transmission. You remove the plate that houses it, pry out the old seal, install and new one, and reseal the plate back to the case. I'm guessing you're seeing gear oil dripping down from the juncture of the transfer case and transmission? If the leak isn't really bad, you could just leave it alone. If you're losing a significant amount, then you'd want to do the labor necessary to change it. We have our transmission replacement series where we show how to remove the transfer case.
Great video! Replacing the rear seal on the transfer case isn't too difficult a job. I would think that this would be a two person job for ease and the extra hand would help immensely. Having access to the proper tools before a person tackles the job helps a lot as well. Well done and super easy to follow video! I was also surprised that no fluid came out after the yolk was taken off. That's a real blessing as well. Sometimes knowing what's going to happen in advance prepares a DIY mechanic for what the entire job entails, Letting the person know whether or not the job is overly difficult or the job is really doable for the weekend home mechanic is always a great way to learn and to save money!
As always great video. Have you considered doing a video on replacing the other transfer case seals? My case is leaking somewhere near the top, virtually the entire case is caked with leaked oil and grime.
Possibly but because removal and installation of the seals on these output and Input shafts are the same it will just as good as watching one of our videos on the matter, then just use the right part number for the seal.
No need to drain it unless the gear oil was due to be renewed. As for topping it off, yes you'd want to do that. John had already topped it off before we did the job.
Thank you very much for the video on hints & how to do, Do you have any idea if the front output flange to the front diff is done the same ? Thanks again and look forward to a reply.
Well, the rear would leak any time since it's spinning even in 2wd. Now, if it's the front one that provides power to the front differential when in 4wd, I think it might still leak because these transfer cases use a "splash" type of lubricating where the oil isn't pumped around to the moving parts but it's the gears turning that move the oil where it needs to get to. But, I imagine if the front seal was bad, it would probably leak worse when the driveshaft is spinning.
This was a nice video Timmy. I do not understand having to use some sort of pressing mechanism on the seal since it looks to be entirely rubber. Would the seal just not press in? Thks...jc
The seal is metal and rubber. The outer circumference is metal and the inner circumference is rubber. You have to drive the seal in with some type of tool.
So when your transmission is in neutral, your front tires are on ramps and your rears are on jacks? So the rears can spin freely? Apply parking brake to hold it from spinning to remove the 4x14mm nuts? Does this principle apply with the limited that has a H4F tc?
Yes, you want the rear wheels to spin freely so you can turn the driveshaft to get the driveshaft bolts in the position you need to break them free with a wrench. Yes, this would apply to limited models. Don't know 100% if the seals are the same for all models, so make sure you are getting the correct seal for your year and model.
Nice video! Do you know if Nissan Pathfinder 2014 has a similar procedure to replace seal? I was told by dealer that transfer case is not serviceable and ask 5000 bucks for replacement of the whole transfer case! Thank you.
Not sure, but just under the rig, remove the drive shaft and flange and see if you can identify a seal. Also clean it real good to make sure the transfer case is leaking from something like a seal. Could be a crack or leaking from somewhere else.
Timmy, You provided a very informative and straight forward video on the Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement for the Toyota 1st Gen Tacoma. Do you know if this procedure would be the same for 2005 Lexus RX330 AWD? My rear oil seal on my transfer case is leaking (badly!). All the quotes I have received total 18 hours of labor. They claim the transfer case would have to be removed. In your video the transfer case remains in the car while you replace the seal. I would appreciate any advice on the matter. The quotes I have received are any where from $3500-$4000. This is way to much for a 70 year old man on a fixed income. Again, Thank you for the great videos.
Hey Robert, I'm not familiar with the Lexus RX330 so I'm not sure if the job would be similar. I wonder why the transfer case would have to be removed to replace the output shaft seal. It doesn't make sense. Send me a picture of where the seal is so I can give you a more definite opinion on it. I did a quick search and found this: repairpal.com/estimator/lexus/rx330/transfer-case-output-shaft-oil-seal-replacement-cost Maybe the shops are misunderstanding what's leaking.
Hey Mikey, we've never done the job on a 92 4runner but I imagine the process is the same. I don't know the orientation of the seal. Just carefully analyze the seal orientation before you remove so you know how to install the new one.
Would this work for my 2007 FJ cruiser as well? Went to a shop today because my transfer case has a small leak, an the shop says i need to replace the transfer case inner/outter seal. But the price was almost 1100. The detail and of this video an if its the same, I think i could do it myself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
If the leak is coming from one of the companion flange seals, I would suspect the technique we show in the video would be similar for you FJ. Toyotas don't seem to change all that much. I don't have experience with the FJs so I can't say for sure how similar they are.
Another useful video I found! both sides of my t case are leaking. So to do the front would I use all the same parts except instead use the front output shaft seal with all the other parts?
That sleeve is part of a crank and camshaft seal removal/ installation kit. A link to the kit is in the video description. Just click on "Show More" and the video description will expand out.
Can you do a video on the opposite side for the front part of the transfer case? Mine has a leak now and is accumulating on the small skid plate under the transfer case.
Maybe one day but I think it would be the same exact procedure as we show for the rear companion flange seal. The only difference is this time you'd be disconnecting the front driveshaft.
When it comes to replacing the small seal on the companion flange, I have some steel punches. Do you think I could put a layer of electrical tap on the bottom and that would prevent it from marring the companion flange when I need to get that seal flush? If not, I'll go out and buy a brass drift like you used, your electrical tape on the screw driver idea just had me thinking haha.
Hey Timmy, I need to do the seal on my transfer case, but the one for the front companion flange connected to the front driveshaft. I know you don't have to drain the case for the rear flange, but do I have to drain all the gear oil for doing the front seals since it's much lower that the rear one?
I wanted to ask about the crows foot wrench. I bought a set so I could torque to specs, but I still couldn't get enough clearance to seat the wrench properly with torque wrench and an extension didn't help. Maybe the double cardan joint is bigger on a 96 or the wrenches were shorter than yours. They looked the same. I ended up using "good and tight" on a 14 mm with extension. Because you are offset from the axis of rotation of the nut, would you risk over-torquing those nuts with a crow's foot? If at all, maybe it's insignificant.
Good and Tight is good enough. I wouldn't worry about exact torque specs for the driveshaft bolts and nuts you can't get a straight shot at with the torque wrench. I've tightened many driveshafts with the good and tight method, and the nuts don't get loose and fall off.
I recently pulled the driveshaft on my 2020 4 runner and noticed no side to side play in the TC flange however notice 1/16 in and out play. When I pulled the flange I noticed there was not a shim behind it. I'm not the original owner and my question is do you know whether or not the shims are there for the purposeof preloading the bearings? Is the in and out play acceptable ?
I don't believe the companion flange actually puts a preload on the bearing behind it. It's not like setting the preload for a pinion bearing on a differential. I don't remember the Toyota FSM discussing anything about this or any talk about shims. That play you are noticing might just be a little play in the bearing shaft and it could be normal, but I don't know for sure.
They look similar to other cars like my 2014 Nissan pathfinder I seem to be developing a leak in the rear transfer case output shaft seal.. did you totally remove the drive shaft or just left it hanging ? I’m thinking about doing my Nissan but was wondering for best way since I’m am doing it in my driveway lol with car jacked up. Thanks!
I can't remember 100%. I think we removed the driveshaft entirely. Just pay attention to how far the seal is driven in and copy that when you install the new seal.
great video...i was actually looking for something on the other side of the transfer case. I recently noticed a drip from the drain plug. I tried tighting it but it was already tight. Maybe theres a seal on the front side that needs replacing. Its a 92 4wd pickup. Do these have drain plug washers that could be the culpret...anything to avoid a bigger hassle?
That would be my assumption, but since I haven't done this replacement for the front output shaft, I can't say for sure. If it were me, I'd buy that seal.
The only problem with going directly to the impact gun is you run the risk of messing up the threads at the end of the shaft. Unstaking the nut is the smartest choice. Thanks for the comment and we're glad you like the video.
Hi Timy ! I own a 2001 2001Toyota Hilux motor 3L and I am trying to replace the front transfercase oil seal, but before that is a dust caver seal, how can I remove it with out damege it?
I'm not familiar with it so I can't really advise you how to remove that dust cover. What area of the World are you in. Maybe there's a Toyota forum you can ask your question on and somebody will be able to help you.
Hey David, we definitely could have added some grease to the slip yoke but we figured John would be greasing his slip yokes and u-joints with his grease of choice so we left it up to him. For me personally, I usually grease my driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change. That seems to be enough to keep them well-lubricated.
I don't know if the front output shaft uses the same parts. There's a very good chance that this is the case but you'll have to confirm it. Your local dealer would be able to tell you, and since we're not talking a lot of money for these seals and the nut, you could just buy from them. Quite often, I use my local dealer out of convenience because they can find the right parts I need when online parts schematics aren't very helpful. If we were talking parts that were more costly, I'd tell you to call Camelback Toyota in Arizona. I use them to buy most of my Toyota parts. Their prices are competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if your order is $150 or more. If you ever need help with an order, you can call Camelback and ask to talk to Jorge (he calls himself "George") and he will help you out. Jorge handles the online sales.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thanks for the reply Timmy! I was going to order through Camelback Toyota cause Canada doesn't have very good online sources for Toyotas but sadly they don't ship to Canada as far as I know. I will have to call up the dealership and see what they say..
Define basic tools? Think about what we used in this video. A way to pull the seal and install the new one may be the only specialty tools you might not already have.
Timmy, love your vids! I recently became the proud owner of a 2002 Tacoma v6 5-speed TRD. I'm thrilled to have found your channel! When I bought the truck it had 188k on the clock. The timing belt is not original but no record as to when it was changed. Your timing belt vid really inspired me along with all these others! THANK YOU! Maybe you could do a video about what tools you use most often? As I'm getting into this I'm learning what I'm going to need - e.g. metric set of impact sockets. I'd be curious what your thoughts are on a starter set of tools might be for a beginning DIY wrencher. Thanks in advance and keep up the GREAT WORK!!!
Hey Chris and Kimberly, great to hear you like our channel. Others have shown interest in a tool box walk through of what I own and we will make this video at some point in the future. Happy Wrenching and have lots of fun with your new toy.
@@TimmyTheToolman that makes sense! Just got a 2016 4Runner.. it looks a bit damp around that seal - nothing like your video showed for a leak lol. Going to replace it, but mine is a automatic.. always has standard cars.. will need to figure out how to get this thing into neutral while it’s not running..
Awesome and helpful video. I just did the front companion flange on my 1990 rn130 4Runner. It’s the same process as the rear seal. Time consuming job but easy and manage d to do it without removing the cross member. Thanks for the advice.
@@TimmyTheToolman can you give me the page number for the shop manual for the part numbers for the seals for both front and rear companion flange as well as the transfer case seals and the dust Shields
@@AntonioClaudioMichael The factory service manual doesn't have part numbers in it. I just go to my local dealer parts department, who I have a good relationship with, and I order the parts from them.
Ok so if you are going to replace the front output shaft seal would you need to get another companion flange smaller seal And companion flange nut for the front? Are they almost a identical set up? Also would the smaller seal and nut be the same part number as the rear? Thanks In advanced
They are almost an identical setup but I’ve heard there’s different part numbers for the front companion flange seals so make sure you get the right ones.
Hey think you can help me out? Been having vibration and thought it was ujoints but I checked and has play where driveline meets transfer case. Any idea?
I don't know Danny. I haven't performed this job on a GX470 yet. The seals aren't too pricey. If I were you, I'd just visit your local Toyota Parts Department and have them look it up for you and buy them there. You're going to pay more compared to online, but at least you're going to get the right seals. Trying to look up small parts like this from an online sellers website can be problematic because the parts schematics available aren't always very complete.
It could be the input shaft leaking or maybe something to do with the torque converter. Unless it's one of the metal cooler lines that runs along the passenger side that has sprung a leak and leaking down to the bottom of the bell housing. I'd spray everything down really good with degreaser and wipe up the mess with rags and then start watching it closely to confirm exactly where it's coming from. If it is indeed originating somewhere in the bell housing, it would be my best guess it's the front input shaft seal that is leaking. Who knows, it could also be ATF leaking from the steering rack. Is the steering rack wet with oil as well?
DAMN !!!! YOU ARE THOROUGH AS HELL!!!!!! THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE YOUR WORK!!! Wish you lived in ny....now I got a 2015 Tacoma....it looks just like that transfer case. Now i have a 2" leveling kit...it has two spots on the block lift in the rear...a stupid scammer put it on the spring pin all the way forward so it was setting in th back hole putting all the off the spring pad and all the weight on the front if the spring. So my spring would go up and over the axle. He pushed the carrier bearing all the way forward. I know that wouldnt be good on the seals and the u joint...I just replaced everything center u joint and carrier bearing..and thought I had the rear end out back where it was suppose to be. Driver side was 133" wheel base and passenger side was 132" wheel base. Remind you a Toyota dealer did the repairs. They never put the axle back where it was suppose to be on the passenger side. Now my u joint is bad and my transfer case is leaking. I know that ruined those seals with that rear end off one inch on one side. What is your opinion? Thank you!!!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you like our channel. Sounds like you have experienced what a lot of people have experienced. Even the supposed Toyota Experts regularly screw things up. This is the reason why I now do most of my own work. I bet because the rear end being out of alignment put strain on the u-joint and the transfer case seal and that's why they both failed. If I were you, I'd try to get the Toyota dealership to compensate you for the screw up.
hey Timmy, so it seems my companion flange has some play in it, I need to replace the driveshaft for sure, but would I need to replace this flange all together? or could this be leading me to a bigger issue in the transfer case?
Well, is it the companion flange moving on the output shaft or is the whole shaft moving? If the whole shaft if moving, that means the bearing the shaft rides on has play and it's a sign that the transfer case will have to either be rebuilt or replaced.
Timmy The Toolman thank you timmy for the insight, after further inspection it seems i just have to tighten that large nut back to spec and re tap it in. Love your videos as a new 4runner owner so thank you very much!
Timmy The Toolman I bought this 4runner cheap from a guy and we figured out that he ran over something on the highway. It did a mess on the double ended yoke on the drive shaft, so it seems when he did, so the vibration from the driveshaft mustve translated to the companion flange it must’ve loosened up that nut. This is my theory at least.
when i changed the seal on my 2000 all wheel drive land cruiser ,when i turn the rear wheel jamming or lagging when i go straight it goes fine . do you know what could be the problem
@@osamade4602 I think you probably tightened the nut too tight causing an excessive load on the pinion bearing. That's the only thing that makes any sense to me.
Hey Timmy! Would you happen to have a source for a Reman t-case? I have looked all over and unfortunately the only ones I can find are from Marlin, etc but they are meant for way more abuse then what I would throw at it.
Hey Jeremy, no we don't know of where you can get a remanufactured transfer case. Maybe there's a local shop in your area with a good reputation that rebuilds them for a fair price.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes I have. So those part numbers work for the front companion flange that the front drive shaft comes out of as well? They use the same seals?
@@ericbrown6802 We're not 100% sure so we don't want to give you bad information. It would make sense the front companion flange uses the same seal but it's best you confirm this before ordering the part.
Hi Timmy, very good video. I need to know if you have a video on how to replace an oil pan gasket. I want to do it on my 97 4runner because I am having a small leak . Also after watching the 30,000 mile video, I did change the front differential gear oil and transfer case gear oil today just by watching your video. Thanks again.
We haven't done an oil pan gasket replacement video yet. But, we have a video for pulling the front differential and that's most of the work. ua-cam.com/video/w_gPiDvh9v4/v-deo.html Be sure to read the comment I pinned because we learned of a much easier way to get the front differential out. Once the front differential is out of the way, you can remove the oil pan with relative ease. Take a look at our Transmission Filter Replacement video. The tool and technique we use to separate the trans pan from the transmission would be the same technique to separate the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. ua-cam.com/video/tuGazNhuEtM/v-deo.html
No, you don't need to remove the grease zerk fitting. It should be very similar for the 4th Gen 4runner, but since I've never done this job a 4th Gen, I can't say for sure it's the same.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome. I think I’m gonna do it today or for sure tomorrow morning, I have cv joints and front axel seals to do Saturday I think this transfer case output shaft seal and companion seal will be not so bad.
@@TimmyTheToolmandid it today. Took me 2.5 hours with very little mechanical background, Your video definitely helped lots ! I appreciate what you do !! Thank you 🙏
Hi Tim. Thanks again for making this video it is very helpful I know this is been up a while so I am hoping you see this. I recently just replaced the rear output shaft seal on my first GEN Tacoma using your video here so far so good. Since then I have noticed a small amount of gear oil weeping out between the area where the transfer case and transmission meet up. I did a quick search on Tacoma world and found some comments that I believe were made by you about that it does not have a gasket or RTV seal that it is a dry seal metal to metal. Is this correct? Also if I am seeing gear oil leaking out in that area that it could possibly be my TC input shaft seal leaking or the Transmission output seal. I’m I understanding this correct? It’s not a very bad leak and is definitely gear oil which would seem to me it would be the input shaft seal. Just wanted to reach out to see if you thought it was worth while replacing? The area where the seal is located in the front companion flange is bone dry just leaking 2-3 drops from between the TC and Transmission. Thank you.
Yes, the seal between the transfer case and transmission is a dry seal. There's no fluid in that void between the two parts. If it's gear oil leaking out, and you have an automatic transmission, the source of the leak has to be the input shaft seal on the transfer case because the auto trans has ATF running in it. If you have a manual transmission, then the leak could be either coming from the output shaft of the transmission or the input shaft of the transfer case. If the leak isn't that bad and you're keeping an eye on the fluid level on a halfway regular basis, you're fine. If the leak gets worse, then you're going to have to check your fluid levels frequently or risk messing up one of those expensive components. Pulling the transfer case isn't that hard but it does take some time. Our Auto Trans Swap Part 1 video will show you how to do it if you decide to drop it. ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html
Hi Timmy thanks again for the amazing confidence boosting tutorials. I've ordered the parts in you descriptions but turns out it was the front seal leaking in mine (lower one), do both sides use the same seals? The flange one is the same indeed my concern is the transfer case one. Thanks again and greetings from New Zealand.
I don't know for sure 100% but it would be my guess that it's the same seal. I tried doing a search online to confirm it's the same seal but the online Toyota parts sellers don't have the greatest parts schematics to consult. If this isn't your only vehicle, you could always just pop the seal out and then do a side by side comparison to make sure it matches up. That seal seems to be used for a lot of different year Toyota and Lexus model transfer cases all the way up to 2018. So, I'm pretty confident you're going to find it's the same seal front and rear.
@@TimmyTheToolman hey Timmy thanks for the reply, I've removed it and looks slightly smaller than the back one, not sure if shrinks a bit. Agreed I couldnt get a good schematic myself either. Found this that could be different: www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031141012 Will go to the dealership today and ask will update for reference.
Checked with the dealer, all same procedure just different seal on the Transfer Case for Front is part number 9031141012. Thanks again Timmy you're the man!
@@martinravina6934 Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for sharing the part number. I added it to the video description for anyone else looking for the same answer.
The tool to un-stake the 30mm is sold on Amazon and it looks like a curved standard screwdriver, where you wedge it in and the curve shape directs the force to the staked section of the nut instead of into the axle or output shaft. $30 for two tools, one to stake and one to un-stake the nut.
The general steps will, but you'll have to make sure you get the correct seals for your transmission and pay attention to how the original seal was installed. You'll want to drive it in to the same depth as it was before. Sometimes, with seal applications, you can drive it in too deep, which causes the seal to not be riding where it needs to be on the shaft of the companion flange.
*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
Great video, it helped me a lot thank you.
@@matthewwall5958 Thanks Matt and you're very welcome. Great to hear our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
Is the companion flange seal a oil seal also???
@@two_stroke_or_broke9297 Good question. Hard to say but I imagine some gear oil could travel along the splines and get past the end of the shaft so maybe it doubles as a gear oil seal and a dust seal.
Timmy The Toolman awesome thanks for your reply
You should be an instructor. This is about the best "How to" video I've ever seen. Love the details and alternate methods/tools to use. If you can't do the job after watching this video. You have no business working on vehicles.
Hey Hector, I appreciate the nice compliment. You will find that all of our videos are very detailed to give the viewer the best chance at success. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
I just completed this project on my 98 Tacoma, but mine was for the front shaft seal. All the info from this video still applied though. Once again, Tim's generous contribution to this world has saved the day for me. His attention to detail is second to none and I feel so much more confident going into a project I've never done before after watching his videos. Tim, you are a godsend as far as I'm concerned. Thank you so much for all your time and effort to help others.
NOTE: I did struggle with one part of this job, that being the nut removal. On my truck that bugger was cinched down so tight my breaker bar wouldn't budge it. I bought a beefier and longer breaker bar (20in) and it still wouldn't budge! The only way I could break it loose was to set things up so I could get my floor jack under the handle and use the hydraulic power of the jack to lift (and thus turn) the breaker bar enough to bust the nut free. What a relief to finally feel that thing come free!
Thank you for the very nice compliment and thanks for taking the time to comment. I appreciate it very much. I'm happy to know our videos are benefitting you. Happy Wrenching!
I can't find the Dust shields for the front companion flang or the rear Companion Flang or the dust Shields on the transfercase
I'm pretty sure the dust shield is part of the companion flange but maybe you can buy it separately.
@@TimmyTheToolman okay I can't find it and the companion flanges are 120 bucks a peice don't want to buy companion flanges for a 15 or 20 dollar dust shield appreciate the reply timmy and good to hear from ya been awhile
I have a 2006 Tacoma trying to change the Front transmission seal. I unbolt the 2 bolts holding up the shaft that's almost in the middle distance. Question - do I need to unbolt the rear shaft bolts at the rear end OR can I pull the front shaft out where seal is sitting without removing the rear shaft bolts. Appreciate your advice thank you. Andrew
The rear shaft is totally separate from the front. If you want to replace the front output shaft seal, you only have to disconnect the front driveshaft from the transfer case.
One trick I read on a Toyota forum and have since used is to take a small drill bit and drill out the dent of the staked nut. Can't do this in every location but it's what I used when I replaced my transfercase seals. Thank you Timmy for another excellent video!
Hey Aaron, drilling out the dent probably wasn't something I would have thought of but I can definitely see that it would work. I was lucky I had the right size screwdrivers that I could wedge between the shaft and the indented section of the nut. Somebody commented you could also just take a small chisel and grind it down to the size you need. Glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Does this oil seal part number also work for the front side of the transfer case?
It's a different part number. We list it in the video description.
Outstanding! Thoughtfully made tutorial. Finding multiple solutions if you don't have professional tools is much appreciated. This is the best how-to I've seen yet. Many thanks, amigo.
Thank you for the very nice compliment. We appreciate it very much. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Wanted to add an additional option that worked out for me along with the press sleeve and nipple option that Tim gives in the video. I found a piece of muffler/exhaust pipe at my local AutoZone that was the perfect diameter to fit around the new seal it captured the seal and held it in place just like the press sleeve or nipple did in the video. I then just used a piece of 2 x 4 held in place on the one end to drive the seal in evenly. This was inexpensive and worked out great for me although I did noticed that the edges are fairly sharp so I would highly recommend putting some tape or other material around one of the ends to add some padding or cushion to it for when you Are placing it against the seal it won’t bind or cut into the seal causing damage.
Thanks for sharing your technique to drive the seal in.
Did you drain the TC fluid before this job? Or can you swap out the seal regardless?
You don't need to drain the gear oil to do this job.
Hi i have question i replace it on my toyota sequoia 2001 but i was expecting the small washer but it wasn't there what's the purpose of the washer?
Can you provide a time stamp to the washer you're talking about? We shot this video quite a while ago and I don't know what you're referring to.
I was truly convinced I was going to be forced to open up the entire transfer case... of course Toyota would make this easier and cheaper from replacing on the outside. Thank you for you video. Saved me days and hundreds.
You're very welcome William. It's good to know our video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.
I did not see you mark flange to transfer case, so does it matter on how it goes back on, which then would negate your first markings on the drive shaft, I would think..thks..jc
We did mark the companion flange, but it really doesn't matter. You could bolt it up in another position because the flange isn't part of the balancing of the driveshaft.
@@TimmyTheToolman What I was trying to say is that you marked the companion flange to the yoke . But when you removed the flange from the housing I did not see where you marked the flange to the housing. Did I miss that ? Understand it is not an issue..thks..jc
@@Samson-EC Oh, I understand. The companion flange mating with the transfer case isn't an issue people need to worry about by making match marks.
@@TimmyTheToolman Great. Thks so much for all the info. Appreciate you taking the time..jc
@@Samson-EC You're welcome JC. Sean and I do our best to answer everyone's questions but some slip by us. We're not some hugely popular channel with so many questions coming in everyday that would make answering them all impossible. I guess it's one of the nice things a smaller automotive channel can offer people.
Thank you for doing this! Would repairing the Front Output Transfer Case Seal be exactly the same process as replacing the Real Output Transfer Case Seal?
You're very welcome. The process would be the same, but I think the seal might be different.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks again! Love these videos. They are helping me keep my 2000 250K mile tacoma alive
Thank you brother Tim, still the best tutorials for these trucks on youtube period! cheers from Australia.
Thanks My Australian Brother. We appreciate the nice compliment.
Thanks again Mr. Toolman. I was successful in replacing this seal on my 1989 4X4 DLX pickup truck with the w56 tranny. Had a struggle with the long bar method of removing the stake nut. So went to the method of putting the tranny in low gear and it worked like a charm.
@@larryrodriguez3991 You're welcome and good job!
Love the excellent detail in your videos! Thanks for helping all of us amateur mechanics!
Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! You're very welcome. We all started as total amateurs, but the cool thing is auto mechanics can be learned with relative ease. If you put in the time to learn and you invest in tools, you can be just as successful as the professionals. Quite often, the only difference between the professionals and the DIYers is the fact the professionals spent a lot of money to attend a trade school in which they passed tests to get certifications. You don't need certifications to be a good mechanic. Happy Wrenching!
Go with the OEM seal or something from NAPA etc?
OEM
I can't find the dust Shields that protect the seals is that apart of the companion flange and the Transfercase housing ? Not seeing it in the Shop manual in the transfer case section?
I really wish someone would do a input seal for the transfer case! Great vid!
One day it will happen. Glad you like the video,
For this process, you didn’t have to drain the oil, correct ??
That is correct. The person we were helping wanted to renew the gear oil, and that's why we did it.
Hey Timmy, thanks for making all these 3rd Gen videos! They have been a huge help for me working on my 1999.
I'm about to change out this seal on the Front output shaft. You don't mention draining the transfer case or refilling at the end. Is this step not necessary? Why doesn't gear oil come spilling out when you remove the drive shaft?
You're very welcome. Good to know our videos have helped you out.
The rear companion flange sits higher than the level of the gear oil so it's not necessary. The front flange does sit below the level of the oil so you would want to drain the transfer case before replacing that seal.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for answering the questions, this question/answer session makes your channel as a SCHOOL. thank you for Mentoring us. God Bless you.
@@MuskDeer-Pk You're very welcome. Taking time to answer people's questions is something that we pride ourselves on. This is a quality that separates us from many Automotive UA-cam channels. We answer the HIGH majority of questions we receive. Happy Wrenching and Learning!
Just did my timing belt kit replacement and had a bad oil leak prior to the fix. When i got down to my front main seal, i was able to remove it with my index finger and thumb! Thanks for the help on this Tim!
Good to hear our video helped you out Hans. I think you commented on the wrong video though. You're talking about a timing belt job and you commented on our Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement video. Anyways, we appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman my apologies! You caught me, I've been binging your channel!
@@hansdavis9081 No worries. Thanks for being a fan of our channel.
Just a heads up the rear output shaft seal part number is now 90311-41020. I just ordered from Toyota and this replaces 90311-41007. Looking forward to using this video as a resource to fix my leaking transfer case seal. Whenever I have an issue with my 4Runner the first place I look for help is Timmy the Toolman's videos!
Hi Olivia, thanks for sharing the information regarding the part number change for the seal. Good to hear we are a resource you like to use for working on your rig. Happy Wrenching!
This was ridiculously good and helpful. I have to replace this seal on my 90 pickup. This should help a ton.
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it! Good luck with the seal replacement on your pickup.
Have you done it yet? I need to do this on my 93 4 runner. But l don't think it has the smaller seal, just to bigger one. Am l right?
It's funny, It was just last week I was under my rig for something else and I noticed a drip coming out of my seal. First thought was "shit I don't think Timmy has done a video on that one yet"
Well Commander, I'm happy to hear our timing was perfect for you. Let me know how the job goes for you.
I know this was 2 years ago but same lmao
nice video..i changed the seal following the instructions.
now i have a suspected bearing sound coming from the front transfer drive. can the sprocket drive bearing be changed without taking down the whole transmission?
I'm not 100% sure but I believe you would have to crack open the transfer case to get at that bearing and then for sure you would need a press to get the bearing off the shaft. So, the transfer case needs to come out. The transmission wouldn't need to come out though.
The best tutorial video I have ever seen, thank you
That's a hell of a compliment. Sean and I appreciate it very much. You're welcome and Happy Wrenching!
i want to thank you after running around the parts stores getting different size seals your part#s helped alot more than you will ever know 😂😂 2004 tundra double cab 4x4
You're very welcome Hector. I'm happy to know our video assisted you. Happy Wrenching Bro!
Hello Timmah! ... well i think i have spotted a weep of either MT transmission or transfer oil on the Gen1 Taco 5VZ... it looks to be somewhere between where the transfer case and R150F transmission mate up... gravity has pooled up a dropping on one of the lowest bolts... I wiped it off and checked a few days later and it was whett again... do you have any videos of what is involved with resealing where those two items attach?, i am taking a gander at the parts diagram and searching for the literature in the FSM pdf i have for more instruction and exploration
It's either the output shaft seal of the manual transmission or the input shaft seal of the transfer case. You'll need to remove the transfer case to investigate. The closest I have to a video for this is our Automatic Transmission Swap series, Part 1, where we show how to remove the transfer case.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you!
Any chance there's a part number for that companion flange washer @ 14:15? Mine was completely missing when I took off the companion flange. Not stuck to the back or anything.
Sorry Steve, I don't know the part number. I suggest you just visit your local Toyota dealer parts department and order it from them. It can't cost that much. The shipping you'd pay from an online seller wouldn't make it worth it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank Timmy, I actually found the answer on Tacoma World. Looks like the part # is 36275-35010 for anyone else searching. Just costs a dollar from the dealer!
@@CitizenSnips05 Thanks for sharing the part number Steve.
is this procedure the same for 1992 toyota pickup i'm like one of your viewers thought it was the rear but it ends been the transfer case output shaft seal?
I'm guessing it would be similar but I can't say for sure. I've never done this job on a 92 pickup. For sure you should make sure you get the correct seals. I also don't know if the part numbers are the same.
Always learning new tricks removing zerk fitting, ever experienced blocked zerks or unis?
I've never had a blocked zerk fitting but I imagine it does happen.
hi timmy quick question is the input seal at all similar to this seal or will it require a little more know how and equipment
Replacing the input shaft seal on the transfer case is totally different. To get to that seal, the transfer case would have to be removed from the vehicle. I've never replaced one but I'm guessing it's similar to replacing the input shaft seal on a manual transmission. You remove the plate that houses it, pry out the old seal, install and new one, and reseal the plate back to the case. I'm guessing you're seeing gear oil dripping down from the juncture of the transfer case and transmission? If the leak isn't really bad, you could just leave it alone. If you're losing a significant amount, then you'd want to do the labor necessary to change it. We have our transmission replacement series where we show how to remove the transfer case.
Great video! Replacing the rear seal on the transfer case isn't too difficult a job. I would think that this would be a two person job for ease and the extra hand would help immensely.
Having access to the proper tools before a person tackles the job helps a lot as well. Well done and super easy to follow video!
I was also surprised that no fluid came out after the yolk was taken off. That's a real blessing as well. Sometimes knowing what's going to happen in advance prepares a DIY mechanic for what the entire job entails, Letting the person know whether or not the job is overly difficult or the job is really doable for the weekend home mechanic is always a great way to learn and to save money!
Thanks Bob. Glad you found our video helpful.
Did you guys install these seals dry or did you put a light film of oil on the outside before driving them in?
I put a little film of oil on it.
Thanks for the response. You guys have done a great job on the videos. We all appreciate it.
@@a.sanchez4949 You're very welcome and thanks for the kind words.
As always great video. Have you considered doing a video on replacing the other transfer case seals? My case is leaking somewhere near the top, virtually the entire case is caked with leaked oil and grime.
Possibly but because removal and installation of the seals on these output and Input shafts are the same it will just as good as watching one of our videos on the matter, then just use the right part number for the seal.
Did you drain and refill the transfer case to ensure it was full enough?
No need to drain it unless the gear oil was due to be renewed. As for topping it off, yes you'd want to do that. John had already topped it off before we did the job.
Thanks for posting the front seal info as well. Is it basically the same process? Thanks in advance.
Yeah, it would be the same process. You're welcome.
Thank you very much for the video on hints & how to do, Do you have any idea if the front output flange to the front diff is done the same ? Thanks again and look forward to a reply.
The steps would be the same but the seal isn't. We list that front seal in the video description.
I going to be replace a front pinion seal on a 09 Toyota Sinnai tomorrow, this information was very helpful.
Good luck with the job Damon. Hope it goes smooth for you.
These guys are a national treasure.
Ok, when's the Secret Service Detail show up to protect us? 😁 But seriously now, thanks for the nice comment. We appreciate it!
Maybe I missed it in the video, but from the tools in the description, I think the transfer case shaft nut is 30mm?
Yes, it's a 30mm.
Hey Timmy, did you notice or know if this leak only occurs when in 4 wheel drive with hubs locked..thks..jc
Well, the rear would leak any time since it's spinning even in 2wd. Now, if it's the front one that provides power to the front differential when in 4wd, I think it might still leak because these transfer cases use a "splash" type of lubricating where the oil isn't pumped around to the moving parts but it's the gears turning that move the oil where it needs to get to. But, I imagine if the front seal was bad, it would probably leak worse when the driveshaft is spinning.
@@TimmyTheToolman okay, thanks...jc
My man Timmy always helping us out . .. 💪🤙
It's our pleasure.
👍🏻👍🏻✌🏻
This was a nice video Timmy. I do not understand having to use some sort of pressing mechanism on the seal since it looks to be entirely rubber. Would the seal just not press in? Thks...jc
The seal is metal and rubber. The outer circumference is metal and the inner circumference is rubber. You have to drive the seal in with some type of tool.
@@TimmyTheToolman Okay, looked like it was all rubber. Makes sense..thks..jc
So when your transmission is in neutral, your front tires are on ramps and your rears are on jacks? So the rears can spin freely? Apply parking brake to hold it from spinning to remove the 4x14mm nuts? Does this principle apply with the limited that has a H4F tc?
Yes, you want the rear wheels to spin freely so you can turn the driveshaft to get the driveshaft bolts in the position you need to break them free with a wrench. Yes, this would apply to limited models. Don't know 100% if the seals are the same for all models, so make sure you are getting the correct seal for your year and model.
@@TimmyTheToolman ya got the seals. What website do you use for part #s? Attempting this job tmr
@@TheSponge945 It's just the seals. You could grease your driveshaft zerk fittings while you're under there.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes, but where do you get part numbers from to confirm Fitment etc
@@TheSponge945From your local Toyota dealer or an online Toyota parts seller.
Nice video! Do you know if Nissan Pathfinder 2014 has a similar procedure to replace seal? I was told by dealer that transfer case is not serviceable and ask 5000 bucks for replacement of the whole transfer case! Thank you.
Not sure, but just under the rig, remove the drive shaft and flange and see if you can identify a seal. Also clean it real good to make sure the transfer case is leaking from something like a seal. Could be a crack or leaking from somewhere else.
Timmy, You provided a very informative and straight forward video on the Transfer Case Output Shaft Seal Replacement for the Toyota 1st Gen Tacoma. Do you know if this procedure would be the same for 2005 Lexus RX330 AWD? My rear oil seal on my transfer case is leaking (badly!). All the quotes I have received total 18 hours of labor. They claim the transfer case would have to be removed. In your video the transfer case remains in the car while you replace the seal. I would appreciate any advice on the matter. The quotes I have received are any where from $3500-$4000. This is way to much for a 70 year old man on a fixed income. Again, Thank you for the great videos.
Hey Robert, I'm not familiar with the Lexus RX330 so I'm not sure if the job would be similar. I wonder why the transfer case would have to be removed to replace the output shaft seal. It doesn't make sense. Send me a picture of where the seal is so I can give you a more definite opinion on it.
I did a quick search and found this: repairpal.com/estimator/lexus/rx330/transfer-case-output-shaft-oil-seal-replacement-cost
Maybe the shops are misunderstanding what's leaking.
hi timmy, i got a 92 v6 auto 4x4. same process? which way does the seal go? lip out towards the comp. flange or inside the t case?
Hey Mikey, we've never done the job on a 92 4runner but I imagine the process is the same. I don't know the orientation of the seal. Just carefully analyze the seal orientation before you remove so you know how to install the new one.
Would this work for my 2007 FJ cruiser as well? Went to a shop today because my transfer case has a small leak, an the shop says i need to replace the transfer case inner/outter seal. But the price was almost 1100. The detail and of this video an if its the same, I think i could do it myself. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
If the leak is coming from one of the companion flange seals, I would suspect the technique we show in the video would be similar for you FJ. Toyotas don't seem to change all that much. I don't have experience with the FJs so I can't say for sure how similar they are.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you very much! Your insights are very much appreciated an your video rocks!
@@lemuelmccann2480 You're welcome. Good luck getting the seals replaced.
Another useful video I found! both sides of my t case are leaking. So to do the front would I use all the same parts except instead use the front output shaft seal with all the other parts?
Pretty much! You got it!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you! all your videos have helped me so much over the Years and expanding my skills. much appreciated
Love the in depth guide. Amazing video!!
Great to hear you appreciate the detail this video offers the viewer. Thanks!
Where did you get that sleeve from sir I need that so bad been trying to find something to install that seal with
That sleeve is part of a crank and camshaft seal removal/ installation kit. A link to the kit is in the video description. Just click on "Show More" and the video description will expand out.
Can you do a video on the opposite side for the front part of the transfer case? Mine has a leak now and is accumulating on the small skid plate under the transfer case.
Maybe one day but I think it would be the same exact procedure as we show for the rear companion flange seal. The only difference is this time you'd be disconnecting the front driveshaft.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm guessing I would have to drain the diff oil from t-case?
@@damacknificent151 The companion flange sits above the level of the gear oil. It's not necessary to drain the gear oil out.
@@TimmyTheToolman for the front part? Its below
@@damacknificent151 Yeah, you're right, you would have to drain the case.
When it comes to replacing the small seal on the companion flange, I have some steel punches. Do you think I could put a layer of electrical tap on the bottom and that would prevent it from marring the companion flange when I need to get that seal flush? If not, I'll go out and buy a brass drift like you used, your electrical tape on the screw driver idea just had me thinking haha.
You could do it with the punch. Just tape it up like you mentioned or be extra careful when you're driving it in.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ended up buying a brass drift since I figured it would be a helpful tool in general, but thanks for the reply and great video!
Hey Timmy, I need to do the seal on my transfer case, but the one for the front companion flange connected to the front driveshaft.
I know you don't have to drain the case for the rear flange, but do I have to drain all the gear oil for doing the front seals since it's much lower that the rear one?
Hey Ian, yeah, I would drain it if you're doing the front seal.
I wanted to ask about the crows foot wrench. I bought a set so I could torque to specs, but I still couldn't get enough clearance to seat the wrench properly with torque wrench and an extension didn't help. Maybe the double cardan joint is bigger on a 96 or the wrenches were shorter than yours. They looked the same. I ended up using "good and tight" on a 14 mm with extension. Because you are offset from the axis of rotation of the nut, would you risk over-torquing those nuts with a crow's foot? If at all, maybe it's insignificant.
Good and Tight is good enough. I wouldn't worry about exact torque specs for the driveshaft bolts and nuts you can't get a straight shot at with the torque wrench. I've tightened many driveshafts with the good and tight method, and the nuts don't get loose and fall off.
I recently pulled the driveshaft on my 2020 4 runner and noticed no side to side play in the TC flange however notice 1/16 in and out play. When I pulled the flange I noticed there was not a shim behind it. I'm not the original owner and my question is do you know whether or not the shims are there for the purposeof preloading the bearings? Is the in and out play acceptable ?
I don't believe the companion flange actually puts a preload on the bearing behind it. It's not like setting the preload for a pinion bearing on a differential. I don't remember the Toyota FSM discussing anything about this or any talk about shims. That play you are noticing might just be a little play in the bearing shaft and it could be normal, but I don't know for sure.
They look similar to other cars like my 2014 Nissan pathfinder I seem to be developing a leak in the rear transfer case output shaft seal.. did you totally remove the drive shaft or just left it hanging ? I’m thinking about doing my Nissan but was wondering for best way since I’m am doing it in my driveway lol with car jacked up. Thanks!
I can't remember 100%. I think we removed the driveshaft entirely. Just pay attention to how far the seal is driven in and copy that when you install the new seal.
great video...i was actually looking for something on the other side of the transfer case. I recently noticed a drip from the drain plug. I tried tighting it but it was already tight. Maybe theres a seal on the front side that needs replacing. Its a 92 4wd pickup. Do these have drain plug washers that could be the culpret...anything to avoid a bigger hassle?
Yes, the drain plugs do have aluminum washers. You could buy them at your local dealership or from an on-line Toyota parts supplier.
I did along with the recessed hex plugs which are so much easier to tighten. Thanks!
@@gatzbravo You're welcome.
Do i need the companion flange seal for the front output shaft seal replacement?
That would be my assumption, but since I haven't done this replacement for the front output shaft, I can't say for sure. If it were me, I'd buy that seal.
instead of unstaking, ive seen people just zip it off with an impact wrench. Good video.
The only problem with going directly to the impact gun is you run the risk of messing up the threads at the end of the shaft. Unstaking the nut is the smartest choice. Thanks for the comment and we're glad you like the video.
Hi Timy ! I own a 2001 2001Toyota Hilux motor 3L and I am trying to replace the front transfercase oil seal, but before that is a dust caver seal, how can I remove it with out damege it?
I'm not familiar with it so I can't really advise you how to remove that dust cover. What area of the World are you in. Maybe there's a Toyota forum you can ask your question on and somebody will be able to help you.
I guess it's not necessary to add grease to that zerk fitting after you reinstall it? Are you supposed to just add a little grease at each oil change?
Hey David, we definitely could have added some grease to the slip yoke but we figured John would be greasing his slip yokes and u-joints with his grease of choice so we left it up to him. For me personally, I usually grease my driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change. That seems to be enough to keep them well-lubricated.
If you have 2wd Prerunner would the same size pipe work for seal on the output shaft spline area?
Not sure but I'm guessing it will.
Awesome job... I have the same problem but on the front drive shaft output of the transfer case... Do you know if all the required parts are the same?
I don't know if the front output shaft uses the same parts. There's a very good chance that this is the case but you'll have to confirm it. Your local dealer would be able to tell you, and since we're not talking a lot of money for these seals and the nut, you could just buy from them. Quite often, I use my local dealer out of convenience because they can find the right parts I need when online parts schematics aren't very helpful. If we were talking parts that were more costly, I'd tell you to call Camelback Toyota in Arizona. I use them to buy most of my Toyota parts. Their prices are competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if your order is $150 or more. If you ever need help with an order, you can call Camelback and ask to talk to Jorge (he calls himself "George") and he will help you out. Jorge handles the online sales.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thanks for the reply Timmy! I was going to order through Camelback Toyota cause Canada doesn't have very good online sources for Toyotas but sadly they don't ship to Canada as far as I know. I will have to call up the dealership and see what they say..
@@mackfeltz01 Ok, let me know if the part numbers are the same for the front output shaft. That would be helpful to add to the video description.
Would you happen to know why the rear driveshaft would be lose (able to move up, down, side to side) at the tcase?
The output shaft bearing is worn unless it's actually play in the u-joint you're seeing.
@@TimmyTheToolman i dont belive its the actual ujoint. Thank you for the reply. Do you have any videos on changing the output shaft barring
@@zachariarohr7006 Sorry Zach, we don't have a video for that.
My 03 GX470 is leaking ATF from where the transfer case meets the transmission. Is this a job that can be done with basic tools?
Define basic tools? Think about what we used in this video. A way to pull the seal and install the new one may be the only specialty tools you might not already have.
Timmy, love your vids! I recently became the proud owner of a 2002 Tacoma v6 5-speed TRD. I'm thrilled to have found your channel! When I bought the truck it had 188k on the clock. The timing belt is not original but no record as to when it was changed. Your timing belt vid really inspired me along with all these others! THANK YOU!
Maybe you could do a video about what tools you use most often? As I'm getting into this I'm learning what I'm going to need - e.g. metric set of impact sockets. I'd be curious what your thoughts are on a starter set of tools might be for a beginning DIY wrencher. Thanks in advance and keep up the GREAT WORK!!!
Hey Chris and Kimberly, great to hear you like our channel. Others have shown interest in a tool box walk through of what I own and we will make this video at some point in the future. Happy Wrenching and have lots of fun with your new toy.
Good detailed video, would this be about the same procedure for a 99 Rav4 AWD?
Thanks. Don't know if it would be similar to the RAV4. We've never worked on one.
Could you not put the car in park when taking off the 30mm nut or am I missing something? Also, impact would help or is this a no go?
I suppose that would work. We chose the safest route, not putting any strain on the transmission.
@@TimmyTheToolman that makes sense! Just got a 2016 4Runner.. it looks a bit damp around that seal - nothing like your video showed for a leak lol. Going to replace it, but mine is a automatic.. always has standard cars.. will need to figure out how to get this thing into neutral while it’s not running..
Awesome and helpful video. I just did the front companion flange on my 1990 rn130 4Runner. It’s the same process as the rear seal. Time consuming job but easy and manage d to do it without removing the cross member. Thanks for the advice.
Thanks Sam. Good job getting the job done. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Would this be the same process for the seal in the front too?
Yes, but the seals aren't the same. I provide the part number for the front seal in the video description.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome thanks bro
@@Nethrolloras Youte welcome!
Are the front and rear companion flange seals the same for both the transfer case and the companion flange
The seals are different. We list the front seal part number in the video description.
@@TimmyTheToolman can you give me the page number for the shop manual for the part numbers for the seals for both front and rear companion flange as well as the transfer case seals and the dust Shields
@@AntonioClaudioMichael The factory service manual doesn't have part numbers in it. I just go to my local dealer parts department, who I have a good relationship with, and I order the parts from them.
Ok so if you are going to replace the front output shaft seal would you need to get another companion flange smaller seal And companion flange nut for the front? Are they almost a identical set up? Also would the smaller seal and nut be the same part number as the rear? Thanks In advanced
They are almost an identical setup but I’ve heard there’s different part numbers for the front companion flange seals so make sure you get the right ones.
Hello Timmy, thanks for the video, can you tell me please the parts numbers of both seals? i have the same problem on my car
We list them in the video description.
Hey think you can help me out? Been having vibration and thought it was ujoints but I checked and has play where driveline meets transfer case. Any idea?
If there's play, that means the bearing in the transfer case is on it's way out.
I have a 2004 gx470 that has the same leak. Are the seals the same part number ?
I don't know Danny. I haven't performed this job on a GX470 yet. The seals aren't too pricey. If I were you, I'd just visit your local Toyota Parts Department and have them look it up for you and buy them there. You're going to pay more compared to online, but at least you're going to get the right seals. Trying to look up small parts like this from an online sellers website can be problematic because the parts schematics available aren't always very complete.
I have a 1993 4runner that is showing the same signs. Where can a man get a factory service manual for these trucks?
Do a search on Ebay. You'll find the 2 volume set for sale for your particular year no problem.
@@TimmyTheToolman found it! Thank you sir.
@@ag11b69 Good to hear. You're welcome.
Timmy, I have a pretty steady leak of trans fluid coming from the bell housing. Any tips on what this could be?
It could be the input shaft leaking or maybe something to do with the torque converter. Unless it's one of the metal cooler lines that runs along the passenger side that has sprung a leak and leaking down to the bottom of the bell housing. I'd spray everything down really good with degreaser and wipe up the mess with rags and then start watching it closely to confirm exactly where it's coming from. If it is indeed originating somewhere in the bell housing, it would be my best guess it's the front input shaft seal that is leaking. Who knows, it could also be ATF leaking from the steering rack. Is the steering rack wet with oil as well?
@@TimmyTheToolman it is definitely ATF. I did a full oil change last night and it’s got the red tint to it so I know it’s ATF.
@@Ray.Finkle I updated my response. Take a look.
How long of a pry bar did you use to hold those studs and keep the flange from rotating?
Well, I can't exactly remember, but by looking at the footage, it looks like at least 18 inches but maybe 24 inches.
@@TimmyTheToolman Appreciate it. I wasn't sure if it was the kind of thing I could find locally or if I would have to order a 36 inch jousting lance.
@@thermobollocks If you open the video description, we link all the tools we used for the job, including a set of Mayhew pry bars.
DAMN !!!! YOU ARE THOROUGH AS HELL!!!!!! THAT IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! LOVE YOUR WORK!!! Wish you lived in ny....now I got a 2015 Tacoma....it looks just like that transfer case. Now i have a 2" leveling kit...it has two spots on the block lift in the rear...a stupid scammer put it on the spring pin all the way forward so it was setting in th back hole putting all the off the spring pad and all the weight on the front if the spring. So my spring would go up and over the axle. He pushed the carrier bearing all the way forward. I know that wouldnt be good on the seals and the u joint...I just replaced everything center u joint and carrier bearing..and thought I had the rear end out back where it was suppose to be. Driver side was 133" wheel base and passenger side was 132" wheel base. Remind you a Toyota dealer did the repairs. They never put the axle back where it was suppose to be on the passenger side. Now my u joint is bad and my transfer case is leaking. I know that ruined those seals with that rear end off one inch on one side. What is your opinion? Thank you!!!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad you like our channel. Sounds like you have experienced what a lot of people have experienced. Even the supposed Toyota Experts regularly screw things up. This is the reason why I now do most of my own work. I bet because the rear end being out of alignment put strain on the u-joint and the transfer case seal and that's why they both failed. If I were you, I'd try to get the Toyota dealership to compensate you for the screw up.
hey Timmy, so it seems my companion flange has some play in it, I need to replace the driveshaft for sure, but would I need to replace this flange all together? or could this be leading me to a bigger issue in the transfer case?
Well, is it the companion flange moving on the output shaft or is the whole shaft moving? If the whole shaft if moving, that means the bearing the shaft rides on has play and it's a sign that the transfer case will have to either be rebuilt or replaced.
Timmy The Toolman thank you timmy for the insight, after further inspection it seems i just have to tighten that large nut back to spec and re tap it in. Love your videos as a new 4runner owner so thank you very much!
@@TheMasterofmanliness That's good to hear it's just the nut was loose. I wonder how it came loose though if the nut was staked?
Timmy The Toolman I bought this 4runner cheap from a guy and we figured out that he ran over something on the highway. It did a mess on the double ended yoke on the drive shaft, so it seems when he did, so the vibration from the driveshaft mustve translated to the companion flange it must’ve loosened up that nut. This is my theory at least.
@@TheMasterofmanliness That's a sound theory.
when i changed the seal on my 2000 all wheel drive land cruiser ,when i turn the rear wheel jamming or lagging when i go straight it goes fine . do you know what could be the problem
The problem started after you replaced the seal?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes 😢
@@osamade4602 I think you probably tightened the nut too tight causing an excessive load on the pinion bearing. That's the only thing that makes any sense to me.
Hey Timmy! Would you happen to have a source for a Reman t-case? I have looked all over and unfortunately the only ones I can find are from Marlin, etc but they are meant for way more abuse then what I would throw at it.
Hey Jeremy, no we don't know of where you can get a remanufactured transfer case. Maybe there's a local shop in your area with a good reputation that rebuilds them for a fair price.
hi timmy. would you happen to know the part numbers for the seals to the front companion flange? thank you, great video
Have you checked the video description yet Eric?
@@TimmyTheToolman yes I have. So those part numbers work for the front companion flange that the front drive shaft comes out of as well? They use the same seals?
@@ericbrown6802 We're not 100% sure so we don't want to give you bad information. It would make sense the front companion flange uses the same seal but it's best you confirm this before ordering the part.
@@TimmyTheToolman I actually had a national brand seal that fit it. The video really helped me install it. Thanks
@@ericbrown6802 Hey Eric, great to hear you got the job done and our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
Is there anywhere to find a video of the transmission output seal?
We don't have that video but maybe somebody else on UA-cam does.
Would changing the seal on a 5th generation 4runner differ much from this video?
most Toyotas and vehicles for that matter shouldn't differ too much. It will be different, but the concept is the same.
Hi Timmy, very good video. I need to know if you have a video on how to replace an oil pan gasket. I want to do it on my 97 4runner because I am having a small leak . Also after watching the 30,000 mile video, I did change the front differential gear oil and transfer case gear oil today just by watching your video. Thanks again.
We haven't done an oil pan gasket replacement video yet. But, we have a video for pulling the front differential and that's most of the work. ua-cam.com/video/w_gPiDvh9v4/v-deo.html Be sure to read the comment I pinned because we learned of a much easier way to get the front differential out. Once the front differential is out of the way, you can remove the oil pan with relative ease. Take a look at our Transmission Filter Replacement video. The tool and technique we use to separate the trans pan from the transmission would be the same technique to separate the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. ua-cam.com/video/tuGazNhuEtM/v-deo.html
What size center punch did you use to restake the nut?
Here is a better tool to re-stake the nut: amzn.to/3Cdcqv2
Do you have to take the grease nipple off to move the drive shaft ?
With this same process work on the 4th gen 4Runner ? Limited trim ?
No, you don't need to remove the grease zerk fitting. It should be very similar for the 4th Gen 4runner, but since I've never done this job a 4th Gen, I can't say for sure it's the same.
@@TimmyTheToolman can I do this job alone ? Or is it a two man job ?
@@S1KRR_Rider88 You can do it on your own.
@@TimmyTheToolman awesome. I think I’m gonna do it today or for sure tomorrow morning,
I have cv joints and front axel seals to do Saturday
I think this transfer case output shaft seal and companion seal will be not so bad.
@@TimmyTheToolmandid it today. Took me 2.5 hours with very little mechanical background, Your video definitely helped lots ! I appreciate what you do !! Thank you 🙏
Brilliant video.
Do you definitely need all 4 wheels off the ground? I only have 2 jack stands at the moment
No, you don't. But, it would give you a little more room to work though. We're glad you like the video and good luck with the job.
Very well created tutorial that leaves no questions on this procedure 👍
Thanks for the nice compliment. We do our best to be as comprehensive as possible so people can succeed with the job.
Can the input seal be replaced also without removing the transfer case?
No. To access the input seal, the transfer case has to come out. Are you leaking gear oil between the transmission and transfer case?
Hi Tim. Thanks again for making this video it is very helpful I know this is been up a while so I am hoping you see this. I recently just replaced the rear output shaft seal on my first GEN Tacoma using your video here so far so good. Since then I have noticed a small amount of gear oil weeping out between the area where the transfer case and transmission meet up. I did a quick search on Tacoma world and found some comments that I believe were made by you about that it does not have a gasket or RTV seal that it is a dry seal metal to metal. Is this correct? Also if I am seeing gear oil leaking out in that area that it could possibly be my TC input shaft seal leaking or the Transmission output seal. I’m I understanding this correct? It’s not a very bad leak and is definitely gear oil which would seem to me it would be the input shaft seal. Just wanted to reach out to see if you thought it was worth while replacing? The area where the seal is located in the front companion flange is bone dry just leaking 2-3 drops from between the TC and Transmission. Thank you.
Yes, the seal between the transfer case and transmission is a dry seal. There's no fluid in that void between the two parts. If it's gear oil leaking out, and you have an automatic transmission, the source of the leak has to be the input shaft seal on the transfer case because the auto trans has ATF running in it. If you have a manual transmission, then the leak could be either coming from the output shaft of the transmission or the input shaft of the transfer case. If the leak isn't that bad and you're keeping an eye on the fluid level on a halfway regular basis, you're fine. If the leak gets worse, then you're going to have to check your fluid levels frequently or risk messing up one of those expensive components. Pulling the transfer case isn't that hard but it does take some time. Our Auto Trans Swap Part 1 video will show you how to do it if you decide to drop it. ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html
Hi Timmy thanks again for the amazing confidence boosting tutorials. I've ordered the parts in you descriptions but turns out it was the front seal leaking in mine (lower one), do both sides use the same seals? The flange one is the same indeed my concern is the transfer case one. Thanks again and greetings from New Zealand.
I don't know for sure 100% but it would be my guess that it's the same seal. I tried doing a search online to confirm it's the same seal but the online Toyota parts sellers don't have the greatest parts schematics to consult. If this isn't your only vehicle, you could always just pop the seal out and then do a side by side comparison to make sure it matches up. That seal seems to be used for a lot of different year Toyota and Lexus model transfer cases all the way up to 2018. So, I'm pretty confident you're going to find it's the same seal front and rear.
@@TimmyTheToolman hey Timmy thanks for the reply, I've removed it and looks slightly smaller than the back one, not sure if shrinks a bit. Agreed I couldnt get a good schematic myself either. Found this that could be different: www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/9031141012
Will go to the dealership today and ask will update for reference.
Checked with the dealer, all same procedure just different seal on the Transfer Case for Front is part number 9031141012. Thanks again Timmy you're the man!
@@martinravina6934 Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for sharing the part number. I added it to the video description for anyone else looking for the same answer.
The tool to un-stake the 30mm is sold on Amazon and it looks like a curved standard screwdriver, where you wedge it in and the curve shape directs the force to the staked section of the nut instead of into the axle or output shaft. $30 for two tools, one to stake and one to un-stake the nut.
You’re right, and we bought it. Here’s the link amzn.to/3Cdcqv2
@@TimmyTheToolman Nice to hear! We cut a beveled notch in small chisel to un-stake ours, using a die grinder.
I wonder how similar this process is to the 5th gen 4runner tcase.? I have the same issue.
Not sure. Never did this on a 5th Gen but I would wager that it's probably pretty similar.
Awesome!! Based off the looks this will work the same for my 5th gen 4Runner right?
The general steps will, but you'll have to make sure you get the correct seals for your transmission and pay attention to how the original seal was installed. You'll want to drive it in to the same depth as it was before. Sometimes, with seal applications, you can drive it in too deep, which causes the seal to not be riding where it needs to be on the shaft of the companion flange.