My throw out bearing is sqeaking and it looks like i can handle a job like this thanks to you man! Ive learned alot from your videos ever since ive bought my Tacoma a couple of years ago! Thanks!
It's awesome that our video series has provided the knowledge necessary to inspire you to tackle this job. I'm happy to know you've learned a lot from our channel. You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
I watched this video (parts 1 & 2) 3 times through and took notes prior to attempting this job on a 2002 Tacoma 4x4. Thanks so much for all the videos Tim (and Sean) Just replaced my trans and clutch/flywheel this past weekend! Here are some notes to add to this job. Both front wheels off. 6T double-locking jack stands in place. 2002 Tacoma 3.4 4WD with unknown miles (had the wrong instrument cluster when I got it, so no telling.) On the Tacoma with 3.4 the exhaust is different, so we did not have to remove. We didn’t break any bolts on disassembly, we broke one of the bell housing bolts on INSTALL while trying to torque. We also stripped the internal threads on the trans on a different bell housing bolt, so those are torqued to a lower number to be safe…I hope they stay in place. Probably should have put some red locktite on them. I did replace these with new bolts. I was also replacing the trans (with a rebuilt one) to had to pull the transfer case. No surprises there, replaced the rear trans seal since we were in there. The hardest bolt to remove was on the driver side inspection cover. Not because it was stuck, but because the access was extremely limited. Lucky for me my helper had smaller hands than I did. Had to go in from the DS wheel well. My pilot bearing was toast...dry and rusty with little ball bearings falling out all over…and the exterior race was locked into the crankshaft. That race was a BEAR to remove, but using the inner bearing removal tool kit (as recommended by TtTM) was essential to removal. NO WAY would the bread and bolt trick have worked…no we didn’t try, I bought the kit in advance just to be safe. I used the Orion Motor Tech Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J6NLWJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I found another tool that was super helpful for removing and torquing the flywheel and pressure plate bolts…JEGS Flywheel And Flexplate Turning Tool - www.amazon.com/dp/B078WHZCYQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details I STRONGLY advise adding this to the tools list. The best tool I bought for this job was the Milwaulkee M12 ⅜” Ratchet! Talking about speeding the job along. I opted for the kit with 2 batteries and a charger…that was a good choice. Never without power. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077F76VGT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That’s all I can think of, will update if I think of more. Cheers!
@@duaneweikum read through your deets again... was the rebuilt transmission you put in from Yota1 in CA? i just had one shipped from Yota1 to Chicago in January because the pilot bearing on my truck chewed a number on the input shaft after 300k+ miles but was still in one piece ... i have the 5VZfe as well but only one cat and the exhaust had to be removed ...all 3 studs broke from being seized
I just pulled my transmission last night. I totally agree that it is the pilot bearing hanging up. I had the same problem a ratchet strap wrapped around the transfer case then attached to the rear axle allowed me to put a good slow controlled pull on the transmission and transfer case and got everything free without having to use the screw driver method. Your video definitely helped me thanks a lot for posting it.
I also have a 1996 3rd gen SR5 4WD with a manual transmission. 330,000 miles now so I am wanting to do a lot of the repairs you do on this channel. As a 19 year old kid who wants to learn to do a little wrench twisting, this channel is invaluable. I am gethering all the tools and shit i need right now to change the oil in the diffs
Well Bro, it's great to hear you're interested in turning wrenches. I don't think as many young guys these days are interested in auto mechanics so good for you. Auto Mechanics really is a worthwhile pursuit for the knowledge gained, money saved, the challenge, and the great feeling of achievement when you successfully perform a job. Good luck with your rig, and if you have questions, you know where to find us. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the free advice. Hey, if you ever need a truck to do a video on... Not sure how that works, but mine is a super clean, bone stock and is a very early 3rd gen example; built in early December of 1995. If you want a high mileage early 3rd gen to showcase on here to show how things wear at such mileage, because there are mostly factory parts still in it. There's pictures of it on my Instagram page @norton3018 if you want to see it. I'll give you my email if you're interested in any way.
Hey @cameronnorton5898, this post is 3 years old, how about an update? How many miles on that '96 now? How many of these videos have you used to keep her on the road?
@@duaneweikum 350,000. The only mechanical problem I had was the rear axle oil seals. It was no fault of Toyota though. The rear diff breather was sealed over with mud so the pressure had no way to escape. New rear bearings, new oil seals, new rear brakes. My dad and I did the whole job ourselves it was fun. Other than that, a coolant flush, power steering flush, new gear oil in rear diff, transfer case, transmission, front diff, all 4 ball joints, all new front brakes, probably more I'm forgetting. Oil changes every 4k miles.
Literally did this job last week on my new project flatbed Tacoma. The previous owners were using a slave cylinder off a Hilux and a ton of other not so sick mods. Not much out there about the clutch job on the 3.4 so this video will be useful to many.
Yeah, Sean and I figured this would be a good video to make so we took Dan up on his offer to drive down from Kirkwood and do this job at my place in San Jose. It took up a whole weekend but it was worth it to make a detailed video for people to follow.
I’m half way into removing the trans in my 2WD ‘96 5VZ Tacoma. So far the most difficult part is releasing the harness retainer (24:05 on the video). I’m guessing the access is tighter on the 2WD. I’m going to try lowering the trans a bit and see if it opens up some space. Found one of the top bell housing bolts loose. I was thinking my clutch was factory, but perhaps not. I’m thinking w/the welded cross member, I’ll need to slide the trans back until it clears the engine and then drop the front & slide fwd until it clears the crossmember. Your videos gave me the confidence to take this on. Many thanks!!
Thanks Tim! I learned this morning that to get enough clearance the top shifter plate had to be removed. Then you can back the transmission out of the engine. Then the clutch assembly had to be removed before there’s enough room to tip the trans forward and get it clear of the crossmember. The pilot bearing put up a good fight, but did come free of the input shaft. The ratchet strap idea in the comments was really helpful. Onward…
One last question, should any lube be applied to the sleeve the ID of the T/O bearing rides on? Since it’s not mentioned anywhere I’m thinking no, but figured I’d ask.
Thanks so much for posting this and all of the other 4 Runner videos. Your videos have been an absolute lifesaver as I keep my 1st Gen Tacoma on the road!!!
@@TimmyTheToolman well...took me a couple months. but did it a few bolts at a time and just drove it around the block a couple times. Seems like I put it back together correctly! my car was in pretty bad shape but I bought it as a project and i definitely put it back together than it was originally assembled. no more weird noises or smoke...for now.
Manual transmissions don't have fluid lines. You're thinking automatic transmissions. You don't need to drain the transmission gear oil for this job, but it wouldn't be a bad idea if it's been a while since the has fluid has been renewed.
Just finished following this video for prepping to pull my engine. Super thankful to Tim, and the guys that loan their rigs to help put together these resources. I owe you many a thanks, wish I could hit that like button more.
All I read was blah, blah, blah. You're the type of guy that's entitled and thinks the world revolves around you. Sorry Bro, it doesn't work that way. Be happy we made a detailed video series to help you out. Now, do us a favor and go whine somewhere else.
You're videos are a GODSEND. I'm doing a 3.4 swap in my 1990 Toyota pickup Extended cab SR5 4x4 and getting the transmission in has been the hardest part for me so far. Pulling the 3.0 was crazy easy and dropping the transmission was cake. Even putting in the 3.4 was easy but holy bejesus getting the transmission in is AWFUL.
Hey Joseph, glad our video is helping you out. Getting the transmission mated to the engine is pretty tough. We found to get the final mating we needed to draw the trans to the engine using a couple of the bell housing bolts, one on each side. It's our belief the final hurdle is getting the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing. It's not a press fit but it's a tight fit. I've talked with others who have done clutch jobs and they said the same thing. They drew the transmission to the block that last little bit using the bell housing bolts.
As always, another awesome video. And see you were actually in Raleigh, NC in the last year or so (TEQ Customs)…man, if I knew of their shop sooner and knew you were coming I would’ve loved to shake your hand (with cold beer) and give you a HUGE thank you!! Couldn’t have done the jobs I have without your expert (and LUV you incorporate FSM)….
@@jamessnyder9050 I'm guessing the event will be advertised on the Triangle Toyota Facebook group. Jamie Obriant is organizing it. Thanks for the beer donation.
I noticed that the clip holding the throw out bearing to the fork is put on different on the centerforce vs oem. Is this way you show the correct way?? This is my 3rd time bringing down my tranny because something does not align.
What we show in the video is correct for the throwout bearing we used. I can maybe take a look at my factory service manual and see if they show a picture of the proper orientation of the spring for the OEM throwout bearing. I'm away from home and don't have access to my FSM. I could look for you in a couple days.
Doing this job now on my wife's second Toyota, the first one I did was on her T100 4x4 SR5 long bed, now she has this 2001 Tacoma, I was contemplating actually loosing the motor mounts a little bit to get more tilt on the assembly transmission and engine to get to those top two bell housing bolts with out such a long extension(s), or possibly through the shifter plate hole with an air ratchet regardless probably going to need a wobble end on it. So far I've learned that the T100 is much easier to work on from clutch service aspect, and not so much from other aspects... lol
Good luck with the job. Long extensions are your friend when it comes to the top bell housing bolts. Wobble extensions can make a huge difference. Just make the investment in extensions.
You're very welcome. Good to hear our videos helped you get the job done. Great job knocking this job out on your own. You gained a bunch of experience and knowledge and saved a ton of money in the process. Happy Wrenching!
Cheers guys for this very-excellent two-part video set. I’ve been wondering about the health of the clutch in my Toyota Hiace camper van as it disengages almost as soon as the pedal is pressed. While it’s possible the pedal is out of correct adjustment the van is ~30y old (~150,000 miles) and I’m doing a pretty big refresh. Your much-appreciated content gave me the confidence to tackle this as the first gearbox and transfer out I’ve done. As you know many Toyotas of the 1990s and 2000s are really quite similar and the shafts on my van matched the bolt and stud pattern which was great. I made a simple adapter (that also adjusted for pitch and roll) to convert my 3T trolley jack into a transmission jack. My G52 4WD transmission came out a lot easier than Dan’s in the video largely as the pilot bearing stayed in place, but it’s old and notchy. I got the pilot bearing out with the ‘bread-and-a-M12-bolt’ technique. The Hiace has a hatch above the bell housing that gives some access to the top bolts and helps with removing the starter motor (and flywheel) and I didn’t have to remove the exhaust pipe, but did have to unbolt its bracket. My manual does say to remove the sway bar and there is also a picture that shows the types of each of the bell housing bolts and their tightening torque. Bad luck with the bell housing to gearbox bolts, but I don’t think you need to remove the bell housing to replace the front oil seal in the gearbox. While access is better with it out, I think all the bolts to remove the gearbox front bearing retainer are accessible with the bell housing in place. I won’t be replacing mine as it’s all good in there but will be doing the engine rear seal. There’s just a little weep but it seems sensible to replace it as I’ve currently got the flywheel out. Very many thanks for taking the time to make your videos. Much appreciated!
Thanks and you're very welcome. Don't forget Sean and Dan though. They're just as responsible for making this video series happen. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
If you watch the removal of the clutch fork/throwout bearing and pay attention to the orientation of the wire retaining clip that holds them together.... looks like he reassembled it differently.... which is correct? Watch starting at 51:00....
I see what you mean, but if you're concerned about the correct orientation, jut pay attention to the way it looks when you pull out the clutch fork and throw-out bearing and mimic that orientation when you put it back together with the new parts. All I can say is Dan has been running his rig since the job was done with no issues. If the orientation of the retaining clip for the bearing was wrong, I guess it wasn't that important.
@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the response.... I was specifically focused on that part of the video because my throwout bearing sort of just fell out when removing as the stamped steel part is in 4 pieces. Appreciate your videos, huge help!
In your opinion would it be better to have a single 36" socket extension to reach the top two bell housing bolts, or piece together shorter extensions including a wobbler? Thanks
? 43:33 ... quick question regarding a Rear Main Seal leak inspection... is this access plate the only way to check for weeping or will a noticeable pool of oil develop on the ground or around the bottom of this plate if that seal is weeping
I knew we couldn't have been the only ones this has had to. Good luck pulling the pilot bearing race off the input shaft and good luck with the rest of the job.
Question; is this "easier" to do if I come from the front? I have the head out right now and thinking in pulling out the block to send to machine shop as well; Transmission I am hopping to leave in the truck; while at it, is it not "easier" to replace the clutch and all these components since the transmission can stay in place ---- OR ---- the transmission needs to be also pulled out with the block? my concern would be once the engine is assembled if I can guide the whole thing with the clutch in it into the transmission, I mean the crankshaft shaft; my clearance from engine block to front is about 8 inches, or may need to assembly everything outside then guide the whole transmission and engine into the bay? This is a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, seems I can slide to the sides the steering pump and the ac compressor without disturbing the lines; the radiator is out but the condenser radiator is not. In my case what it sucks is I do have a hydraulic half lift from Max Jax in my garage but this truck is outside on the side of the house, the lift is occupied with our 2015 Chrysler Town and Country which needs the engine back on, it is ready to assembly but have not done it, now I need "a car" anyone of the 2 as we got not running vehicle and thought it would be easier for me to get the Tacoma running but to work on it i would not be able to use the lift unless work on the TC first and get it off the lift, then I would have to push the Tacoma from the side to the garage to use the lift but at that point it would be without the engine on it...wondering if and what is worth it and what works best and the faster way to get one of them running??? any inside would be greatly appreciated~!!
You can pull the engine to do the clutch job. The transmission doesn't have to be removed. You will struggle a bit to get the engine mated up to the transmission. Having some extra people helping would be advised. You can watch our 3.0 to 3.4 swap series at the part where we're installing the engine for some tips. ua-cam.com/video/_YevoE7Xw7s/v-deo.htmlsi=h5FkNYFwbWKBBHrK
@@TimmyTheToolman Awesome!! thank you so much for that, I have been all day today chewing on leave the engine block in and fix the head then put it back and then do the block at a later time but i struggled so much to get the head out that I think the best thing to do is to take an extra week or 2 if needed but to get everything done in one shot specially if doing it without the lift which have me furious; to have the lift and not being able to use it! specially I bought it specifically to do this job with this car because of the 2 trans bolts on top that you used a bunch of extensions; i have a 48" bar for it! but that is all easier with the car lifted
Regarding Marlin Crawler’s HD seats used in video…MC also has a HD socket for 3rd gen T4R…any reason why chose not to use that also? On MC site, says best to incorporate both seat and socket for max performance. Perhaps just an oversight?
At 52:27, is that the correct orientation of the throw out bearing retainer? That is opposite of how the old one was installed earlier in the vid and is also not what I’ve seen? Thx!
FYI, when I picked up my motor from Yota1 I asked the mechanic there and they told me the orientation as shown here is incorrect - the ends of the retaining clip go behind the fork, not on top of the throw out bearing tangs. But he also said it doesn’t matter too much since once assembled since it can’t go anywhere. Just wanted to follow up. When I watched again, the old retaining clip is correctly oriented when being removed at 51:01. Thanks! These videos have been super helpful during my engine swap!
@timmythetoolman, it seems like some of the online FSMs that are hosted do NOT include the manual transmission section. Have you found that to be the case also? Curious what volume or edition you have for yours (outside of it being for a 2000). Thinking about purchasing one to have on hand going forward.
For 3rd Gen 4runner jobs, I don't use an online manual. I have the physical books. If you get an actual Toyota FSM, it will complete. Just look up your year on Ebay and you'll find a set for sale.
I'm about to do this job on my tacoma. And I have a whine to my input shaft bearing. Does the cover you can see @ the 51:12 mark just unbolt and be able to replace the bearing or do I need to split the case to get it out?
Hey Timmy what’s the part number for the bolts that snapped trying to get the bellhousing off the transmission? I only have 8 for some reason and want to get the 9th
Wish I could take my 4Runner to you guys. I have a 97 4cylinder and cannot find throttle cable....Any advice how to make a universal cable work? My local has no ideas.
I have a 2001 4 runner 4wd but need to replace the flywheel do I have to completely pull the transmission or can you move it back far enough to change it?
My throw out bearing is starting to chirp. Thinking of doing this job soon. I noticed by looking into the transmission that the tb is just barely touching causing it to spin. Though it’s suppose to not touch when clutch is disengaged? If so do you know what the cause might be and how to solve it?
@@liamroberts7054 That's a good question. I know a properly adjusted clutch pedal has free play, meaning there's a little bit of play between the fully retracted clutch pedal and the beginning of feeling resistance when you apply the clutch pedal. I've never looked inside the transmission like you have to see what's going on, but I would think it shouldn't be touching the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is fully released. I wish I could give you a definitive answer. I can do a little research and see what I can find.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah that would be awesome. I don’t think it’s supposed to touch the pressure plate but I wasn’t sure. I have messed with the free play a bunch and noting made a difference, now have the free play set to spec. The only way it would stop making contact was when I pushed the shift fork in a little.
here's a PDF of the relevant pages from the factory service manual for anyone interested in doing this job that may not have a hard copy drive.google.com/open?id=1loZStxzHQdLGhYde_-rzXTA7lfTDn0QV
? 24:28 O2 sensor connector mount post is broken, what is the proper procedure to remove this so it does not break? Timmy I noticed on your personal rig (on another video of yours) that your connector mount post here did not appear to be broken like on this one?
I can't remember how the release works to get the connector free of its mount. Some of those types of connector mounts are a pain in the ass to disconnect, and that's why it was broken. Somebody lost patience and manhandled it. It's not a big deal and one of the reasons zipties were invented.
@@TimmyTheToolman for some perhaps not a big deal!, but to others that wish for their rig to be unmolested it is a big deal! i am sure there are those of you out there LOL it cost me 100$ to learn how to take these off properly. I was trying to figure out how to take the crank sensor harness off the oil guide tube on the '96 Corolla and broke it. Bot a new one to see what parts it came with. the slider part of that connector (allows for movement) is not a separate piece that i can tell and will NOT disconnect that i can find. if you wrench that bracket off the transfer case (or perhaps a needle nose pilers if you can reach it behind the bracket) there are two hard plastic wings that squeeze gently and push it through the hole. clean any crud behind those wings so it squeezes better. it might be the same type of connector on the black 5VZFE front that i think is the crank position sensor mount?
If a DIYer needs your instruction regarding using tools, I can't imagine them getting this job done. A DIYer needs to learn to fight through learning to use tools. You need to spray the alignment dowels and exhaust bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil. Makes a big difference.
Well Mark, I disagree with you. Teaching new people about tools is important and we're going to continue describing to people the tools we're using in our videos. Total beginners have performed involved jobs, like a timing belt replacement, by following our videos. Our videos are all about empowering people to do their own automotive work,, and that includes detailed explanations of the tools we're using.. We did use lots of Kroil and heat on the exhaust bolts. The stud that broke on the passenger side is the same stud that broke on us when doing an 3.4 engine swap.
@@TimmyTheToolman If you used Kroil, why did you not mention it. That is far more instructional that how to use an extension. Teach that Kroil is great for pulleys and alignment dowels and PB Blaster is great for those rusted exhaust bolts. The PB Blaster needs 5 minutes to work. Kroil does not work as well on rust but give it 20 minutes on a Honda or Toyota crank shaft pulley and they pop right off. I have extra long bolts that have the same thread as the tranny attachment bolts. I align the tranny with these long bolts while it is a couple inches out. This helps it slide right into the pilot bearing. It can also be a great safety when trying to get the tranny loose and secured to the jack. Ratchet straps across under the tranny and over the frame rails is another safety. I learned the hard way. A GM 700R4 landed on my head because it wasn't balanced. Safety tips are far more valuable. Rather than charting bolts, I just screw them back in when I see a difference. I was hoping to learn any challenges specific to a V-6 4Runner. I'll be doing a clutch for my daughter in a week or so.
@@idadho Because we don't always remember to say everything we do. If you've ever been our shoes making a video, it's a lot of work and a lot of talking. We don't have a script. Everything said is taken right off the top of our head at that moment for the most part. Penetrant from what I've learned only gets you so far. It's not a miracle worker. What I have found for exhaust bolts is I almost always have to combine penetrant and heat to be successful removing stuck fasteners without breaking them. On both those exhaust studs that broke on different jobs, both were pre-treated several times day(s) in advance and still they fought us. I've heard of using longer bolts as alignment bolts to help marry the trans to the engine. I used this technique recently for a 3.0 to 3.4 swap video we filmed on a 2nd Gen 4runner. For 3 different manual transmissions I've helped install, all of them required the trans pulled into the block the last 1/2" or so with the bell housing bolts. They never just slide all the way in like they can with an auto trans installation because the input shaft fitment into the pilot bearing is tight. We have also used ratchet straps as a safety but I can't remember if we used them in this video. We definitely used them when we first separate the transfer case from the trans like we did on an auto trans swap on a 3rd Gen 4runner and like we recently did on an auto trans swap on a FJ Cruiser. We also used a ratchet strap to support the front of a manual trans for the 3.0 to 3.4 Swap Video. Once the engine is out, the trans is majorly front heavy and put a huge strain on the transmission mount. So Mark, we're not perfect and we are constantly learning. What I can say without a doubt is we are doing incredible things for the Toyota DIY Auto Mechanic community. We try to always give the best information possible at the time we are shooting. When there's further information or techniques we learn, we add that information to the video description of a pinned comment. You sound like you know your way around auto mechanics and so do we. We don't know it all and we don't claim to. You have your opinions and so do we and we don't need to agree with you. Your comment about DIYers not being able to accomplish this job if they require instruction on tools is absolutely false. We have proven this time and time again with the comments we've gotten from people who have used our videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm one of those who appreciates being shown tools that you use, as well as alternatives to the tools like Home Depot sourced stuff for the budget folks. I've used both, largely because you took the time to show us how things work. I have attacked a good number of repairs on my old beater Tacoma over the years and it's still on the road today because YOU showed me how to do it! Stuff that I would otherwise have NEVER attempted on my own. LOVE your video's Tim! Keep up the good work sir! Like you have said in the past, if the video is too long, or there is a section you don't want to watch, there is a little button on your viewer to [Fast Forward] over that part. ;)
Timmy you should do HONDA on a Separate UA-cam video “ Timmy D’ Honda” The way you explain things on part by parts are very easy to follow. I like it! Do HONDA Brother!
Thanks but I sort of doubt that will happen. I did own a Honda Accord for quite a few years. Great car. Took me lots of places, mostly to mountain bike races, and it never left me stranded.
Best stuff on UA-cam, right here. You have given me so much help on this job. I'm an accomplished shade tree, have built several vehicles, but never had such an easy time since you have laid out the bolt sizes, access, etc. I need to get some money to you to help out in return. How do I do that?
Thanks for the nice compliment. Great to hear our video series helped you out. We do have a tip jar link on the bottom right corner of our home page picture so people can donate. There was enough people asking us how they could donate so we decided to create the tip jar. We really don't expect money donations though. We just like hearing back from people like you who appreciate the videos we're making. Hearing how our videos help people is our favorite form of payment. Happy Wrenching!
Any idea what that plug is on the transmission at 26:50? I'm battling a P0500 code and it says "speed sensor A" and I'm wondering if that's related (1996 4runner converted to manual 4x4 with elocker...has abs so I thought speed sensor would just be the abs hall-effect sensors in the hubs)
Not sure what that sensor is. If the trans speed sensor was bad, I would assume the mph on your dash cluster wouldn't be working. I'm guessing it's reporting an issue with one of the ABS sensors at the wheels. Update, I just looked it up and it does appear a P0500 is related the speed sensor on the trans. Maybe go your local dealer parts department and see if they can identify for you where the speed sensor is located on your trans.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply! my spedometer is still working and I've already checked the abs sensors (no trans speed sensor). I'm beginning to suspect the wires between the spedometer and the ECU. Just trying to eliminate other possibilities.
Sorry Mark, I don't remember what that sensor is. If you go to your local dealer they could bring up a parts schematic and tell you what it is. That's what I would do.
Those bell housing bolts were a heart breaker. I have this job in the near future, outside on a gravel driveway. Gonna lay a sheet of 3/4" plywood down for the tranny jack to roll on. Cant wait!!
Yeah, I do not know the actual name of those three, but I am about to buy a flywheel and I do not want to realize I am missing those while installing it. So I was wondering if you could confirm.
Hey Tim, at 26:56 you remove a final connector. What is that sensor? I think it's the reverse light switch but I'm not sure. Mine started leaking the other day and I'd like to get it fixed before it drains my transmission. Thanks for your great videos!
I'm not sure either. You could try looking it up on www.partsouq.com. They have good parts schematics you can reference and hopefully identify the sensor. Another option is just go to your local Toyota dealer parts department and ask them for help. You can explain where it is on the transmission and that will narrow down what sensor it is.
@@TimmyTheToolman No luck at partsouq but that's a great site I'll go there again. I'll stop by my toyota dealer and see what they have to say. Thanks for your help!
Sure you could use it as a reference. The parts probably won't translate but the general steps on how to remove the transmission and do a clutch job will be very similar.
It wasn't a push button style. Push button style knobs don't screw off. There'a a set screw you remove on the side of the shifter and then it slides off the shift rod.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the education.. That deserves an option for a beer! This '97 tacoma I have found a loosey goosey unconnected connector with a blue end hanging of the side of the recently installed yota1 r150F and I was hunting for clues on where it goes and what it is doing there. Maybe it goes to the forward O2 sensor that I still haven't located high up there
The torque spec you listed for the bell housing bolts is 53. Is that the torque for the bell housing bolts that mount to the transmission as well? (The bolts that you snapped to replace the seal)
I looked in my Toyota manual and it doesn't show the spec for those bolts that attach the bell housing to the transmissions. You'll just have to use your best judgement.
the OG '97 Taco 5VZ-FE MT has so far made it 280k miles on the original clutch sans master/slave cylinder (mostly highway miles) but the bearing is chattering in the cold and no noticeable slipping yet in gear up steep grades. Will the bearing eventually lock freeze up and not allow me to shift into or out of gears? ....trying to get 1/3 million miles before this eventual repair
Well, once the bearing gets bad enough, it might fall apart and then you won't be able to shift gears. If it were me, I'd address it before it potentially leaves you stranded. If you don't take long trips in it and you're not opposed to potentially having to tow it back to your house, keep driving it and hope it doesn't completely fail before the clutch gives out.
@@TimmyTheToolman that is what i am afraid of, getting stranded in the nowhere midWest! with temps falling to below freezing and NO heated garage, it will have to be put off for six months. the current pricing for the OEM flywheel is from 512$ to 741$ which is RICH! won't know if its bad and needs replaced until it comes out. Is the Marlin Crawler flywheel (that is 150$ at the time of this video) similar or better quality than OEM. thanks!
@@efil4kizum I really don't know how Marlin Crawler flywheels compare to OEM, but when we did this job with Dan, he did his research and read good things about the Marlin Crawler clutch parts, so I think Marlin Crawler is probably a good way to go.
update... made it to 337k miles (Oct-'23)... bearing is chattering very nicely... tentatively scheduled for pro repair 1st week of December in ChicagoLand once the clutch cover part ever comes in off 4 month backorder
Timmy! My car wouldn’t start the other day my buddy says the fly wheel snapped the other day at the lake and I had to get a tow. I drive a 2002 automatic, is there any major differences I should know before taking my tranny apart? Thanks!
Hey Mike, you actually have a flex plate and not a fly wheel but that's not a big deal. We have a video series for swapping out an auto trans from a 3rd Gen 4runner. You wouldn't necessarily have to separate the transfer case from the trans like we did if you have a 4wd but the rest of the video series would help you get the job done. You can confirm the flex plate broke by taking off the access cover off the bottom of the bell housing and take a look. How did your buddy know it's a broken flex plate and not just a bad starter? Here's a link to Part 1 of our Auto Trans Swap video series: ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html
Hey Tim, I am doing an engine swap on my 4runner, are you able to take the engine out with the clutch still attached to the flywheel? Or do I have to remove the clutch from underneath the vehicle in order to get the engine out of the engine bay?
We never got to that point because of the debacle with the bell housing bolts breaking off in the housing. We chose not to replace the input shaft seal. I guess you missed us saying that. But, our recent 22RE Engine Swap video series covers replacing an input shaft seal. We were mistaken about the need to pull the bell housing off to access the seal. The bell housing does not need to come off. We cover input shaft seal replacement in Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/hZRwijhMTH0/v-deo.html
I wasnt able to get my 1/2 inch extensions to fit all the way back to the bolthead for the top of the bellhousing. Just not enough space in between the tranny and body. Anyone know of another point of access?
You should be able to get 1/2" extensions in there. Do you have wobble extensions. There is no other point of access unless you try through the shifter hole. You could try 3/8" extensions instead if you truly can't get a 1/2" extension between the trans and body. There is no "anyone" other than us that will see your comment and help you. If you want that sort of help, a Toyota forum or Toyota Facebook group would be your best bet. You can also get a jack under the trans, remove the cross member and lower the trans a bit so it's further away from the body.
Don't know if they are the same but you could take a look at our 22RE engine swap video Part 3 for those torque values. ua-cam.com/video/ZNlFScmbgDY/v-deo.html
Anyone know if this is a similar process for t100s same years? Motors the same, trans is the same, should all be the same right? Just wondering if there’s anything at all ,even small, that’s different.
Next time you have to remove drive shafts, leave the shifters connected first so that you can select neutral and a gear and it'll hold the driveshafts in place and still allow it to spin freely
Why my Toyota Tacoma 1996 5VZFE is too hard to go into 1st shift? I already changed 1) Clutch press, 2) Clutch disc, 3) Master cylinder, 4) Slave cylinder, 5) Shift stick bushings, 6) Manual transmission gear oil, 7) Clutch fluid, 8) Clutch lines bleed Help please :-( 1st shift or gear goes in if I try to get it in while I am moving and about to stop, but not when I start from 0mph.
Have you adjusted the clutch pedal free play? The amount of play in the pedal before you feel the throw-out bearing push onto the pressure plate should be 5 - 15mm
@isaias.ramon.gonzalez.angel.63 Push down on the front and rear of the vehicle. If the suspension sinks, rises, and stops fairly quickly, the shocks are probably still good. If the vehicle keeps moving and swaying, the shocks are shot.
Come on Juan, how could anyone answer that question. All Toyots models? The time is going to be different for each one. A Toyota dealership with their computer program to figure the time for a job could tell you. We're not a dealership so we can't answer that question. What I can tell you is it's an involved job. Plan on spending an entire day doing it. If you run into issues and you have to get parts or tools you don't have, it's going to take longer.
We were thinking while the trans was out that we would remove the input shaft seal, because if it develops a leak later, the trans has to come out again. What I learned from others is that this seal rarely develops a leak so the fact we blew off replacing the seal after having such a struggle getting the bell housing bolts out ended up being good decision.
My original clutch lasted over 300k miles. This was on my 1997 4Runner. Still had some material left on it but I decided to replace it due to me taking a long road trip last summer.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm the original and current owner. This 4 Runner has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Even the rear brake shoes lasted over 300k miles. I think it's more of a Toyota thing myself. Clutches on the different sport cars I've had didn't run like the one on my 4Runner.
@@Rhaspun You may be right. It could also be a fact that more freeway and highway miles were driven also. I would think someone who does lots of stop and go city driving would wear out a clutch much faster than someone who mostly just cruises down the highway. So, mileage is relative when it comes to things like clutches and brakes. The conditions it was driven to achieve that mileage is a huge factor to longevity of the wear parts like brake pads and clutches.
Excellent footage along with teamwork to remove the transmission brother Tim!! Wow, those three bell housing bolts-didn't see that coming, especially when there was hardly any corrosion. Did the factory cross thread them?
Thanks Brother Jake. I think the problem with the bell housing bolts is it's a steel bolt going into an aluminum housing. If any moisture at all gets into those threads, the two dissimilar metals can get pretty much welded together. I don't think the factory cross threaded them.
@@TimmyTheToolman That is very likely what happened. Never know what you're going to get into when you start tearing these things and parts and, by the way, I am still waiting for my buddy so we can finish his power steering rack...I know it's been ongoing!!
@@TimmyTheToolman we started by replacing his steering rack on his 2002 Sequoia, and then it led to the upper and lower control arms and ball joints, then repairing corrosion... It has become a long term project for us. Will keep you updated.
Has your friend noticed any new leak from his rear main seal? I'm of the mind to bottom out my rear main as y'all have but am finding mixed opinions on this across the internet. I would assume that the sealing surface of the crank is uniform and seal depth is irrelevant as long as it's not crooked or riding over a groove. Thanks!
Replacing the clutch fork would only be needed if there is excessive wear where the clutch fork pivots on the ball. Other than that, the clutch fork can be reused. Our buddy Dan chose to replace his clutch fork but he could have reused his.
@@mikerundell3907 Yeah, there's quite often more than one way to do things when working on these rigs. Sometimes we show the easiest and most straightforward way to go about doing a task and other times we miss something that would have made our lives easier.
It's advised not to ever use an impact driver/wrench to crack/loosen vehicle bolts as you now know. Once they are cracked, if they are free turning, you can use the impact from there.
That's not the reason why the bolts broke. It was due to corrosion involving dissimilar metals, - steel bolts into an aluminum housing. If you think transmission rebuilders or engine rebuilders break every bolt free with a ratchet, think again.
3 of my bolts snapped and I used breaker bar then by ratchet and I felt the stop backing out and I tried heat which probably didn’t help so I’m in same boat lol
@@sas86toy Damn. So heat did nothing. There's not theory down the drain. I guess it's just a case of getting ready to break bolts if you have to get that bell housing off. Thanks for sharing your experience. This is good to know.
That sucks that the bell housing bolts snapped since you already hat to re tap the holes and get the broken bolts out all that work I would of replaced that seal
Well, we would have still had to get the bearing cover off which was held on with a lot more bolts that might have broken off on us. After spending at least a couple hours drilling and retapping holes for his bell housing, we weren't about to possibly go through all of that again if one or more of the bearing cover bolts broke off too. Feel me?
instead of drilling bell housing bolts, should of tried "building" up recessed bolts with welder until you get a nub, then weld a nut on to it, with the heat of the weld, slowly back the nut and the stud out. Easier than trying to drill it out
*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
Flywheel bolts Part # 90105-10138. Check with where you buy them as some come individually and some come in sets.
@@cjcruz7965 Thanks for sharing this.
@@joseph7105 ua-cam.com/video/mrSRBmFZ1wk/v-deo.html
@joseph7105 No problem. The link to Part 2 in the video description was bad for some reason. I fixed it. Thanks for the heads up.
@@TimmyTheToolman ma
My throw out bearing is sqeaking and it looks like i can handle a job like this thanks to you man! Ive learned alot from your videos ever since ive bought my Tacoma a couple of years ago! Thanks!
It's awesome that our video series has provided the knowledge necessary to inspire you to tackle this job. I'm happy to know you've learned a lot from our channel. You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Happy Wrenching!
I watched this video (parts 1 & 2) 3 times through and took notes prior to attempting this job on a 2002 Tacoma 4x4. Thanks so much for all the videos Tim (and Sean)
Just replaced my trans and clutch/flywheel this past weekend!
Here are some notes to add to this job.
Both front wheels off. 6T double-locking jack stands in place.
2002 Tacoma 3.4 4WD with unknown miles (had the wrong instrument cluster when I got it, so no telling.)
On the Tacoma with 3.4 the exhaust is different, so we did not have to remove.
We didn’t break any bolts on disassembly, we broke one of the bell housing bolts on INSTALL while trying to torque. We also stripped the internal threads on the trans on a different bell housing bolt, so those are torqued to a lower number to be safe…I hope they stay in place. Probably should have put some red locktite on them. I did replace these with new bolts.
I was also replacing the trans (with a rebuilt one) to had to pull the transfer case. No surprises there, replaced the rear trans seal since we were in there.
The hardest bolt to remove was on the driver side inspection cover. Not because it was stuck, but because the access was extremely limited. Lucky for me my helper had smaller hands than I did. Had to go in from the DS wheel well.
My pilot bearing was toast...dry and rusty with little ball bearings falling out all over…and the exterior race was locked into the crankshaft. That race was a BEAR to remove, but using the inner bearing removal tool kit (as recommended by TtTM) was essential to removal. NO WAY would the bread and bolt trick have worked…no we didn’t try, I bought the kit in advance just to be safe.
I used the Orion Motor Tech Blind Hole Collet Bearing Race and Seal Puller Extractor Kit - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08J6NLWJX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I found another tool that was super helpful for removing and torquing the flywheel and pressure plate bolts…JEGS Flywheel And Flexplate Turning Tool - www.amazon.com/dp/B078WHZCYQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
I STRONGLY advise adding this to the tools list.
The best tool I bought for this job was the Milwaulkee M12 ⅜” Ratchet! Talking about speeding the job along. I opted for the kit with 2 batteries and a charger…that was a good choice. Never without power.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077F76VGT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That’s all I can think of, will update if I think of more.
Cheers!
Wow, now that's a comment. Thanks for sharing. Glad our video series helped you out.
Does your Tacoma have the 2 cats? My 97 only has one cat
@@efil4kizum Yessir, mine does have 2 cats.
@@duaneweikum read through your deets again... was the rebuilt transmission you put in from Yota1 in CA? i just had one shipped from Yota1 to Chicago in January because the pilot bearing on my truck chewed a number on the input shaft after 300k+ miles but was still in one piece ... i have the 5VZfe as well but only one cat and the exhaust had to be removed ...all 3 studs broke from being seized
@@efil4kizum Yes, my trans was from Yota1 in CA.
I just pulled my transmission last night. I totally agree that it is the pilot bearing hanging up. I had the same problem a ratchet strap wrapped around the transfer case then attached to the rear axle allowed me to put a good slow controlled pull on the transmission and transfer case and got everything free without having to use the screw driver method. Your video definitely helped me thanks a lot for posting it.
Glad this video helped you with your adventure underneath your truck! Freeing the trans can be a pain in the neck!
I also have a 1996 3rd gen SR5 4WD with a manual transmission. 330,000 miles now so I am wanting to do a lot of the repairs you do on this channel. As a 19 year old kid who wants to learn to do a little wrench twisting, this channel is invaluable. I am gethering all the tools and shit i need right now to change the oil in the diffs
Well Bro, it's great to hear you're interested in turning wrenches. I don't think as many young guys these days are interested in auto mechanics so good for you. Auto Mechanics really is a worthwhile pursuit for the knowledge gained, money saved, the challenge, and the great feeling of achievement when you successfully perform a job. Good luck with your rig, and if you have questions, you know where to find us. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the free advice. Hey, if you ever need a truck to do a video on... Not sure how that works, but mine is a super clean, bone stock and is a very early 3rd gen example; built in early December of 1995. If you want a high mileage early 3rd gen to showcase on here to show how things wear at such mileage, because there are mostly factory parts still in it. There's pictures of it on my Instagram page @norton3018 if you want to see it. I'll give you my email if you're interested in any way.
@@cameronnorton5898 We're interested in jobs we haven't filmed yet so if you have a job like that, we might be interested in doing it for you.
Hey @cameronnorton5898, this post is 3 years old, how about an update? How many miles on that '96 now? How many of these videos have you used to keep her on the road?
@@duaneweikum 350,000. The only mechanical problem I had was the rear axle oil seals. It was no fault of Toyota though. The rear diff breather was sealed over with mud so the pressure had no way to escape.
New rear bearings, new oil seals, new rear brakes. My dad and I did the whole job ourselves it was fun.
Other than that, a coolant flush, power steering flush, new gear oil in rear diff, transfer case, transmission, front diff, all 4 ball joints, all new front brakes, probably more I'm forgetting. Oil changes every 4k miles.
Literally did this job last week on my new project flatbed Tacoma.
The previous owners were using a slave cylinder off a Hilux and a ton of other not so sick mods.
Not much out there about the clutch job on the 3.4 so this video will be useful to many.
Yeah, Sean and I figured this would be a good video to make so we took Dan up on his offer to drive down from Kirkwood and do this job at my place in San Jose. It took up a whole weekend but it was worth it to make a detailed video for people to follow.
I’m half way into removing the trans in my 2WD ‘96 5VZ Tacoma. So far the most difficult part is releasing the harness retainer (24:05 on the video). I’m guessing the access is tighter on the 2WD. I’m going to try lowering the trans a bit and see if it opens up some space.
Found one of the top bell housing bolts loose. I was thinking my clutch was factory, but perhaps not.
I’m thinking w/the welded cross member, I’ll need to slide the trans back until it clears the engine and then drop the front & slide fwd until it clears the crossmember.
Your videos gave me the confidence to take this on. Many thanks!!
Good luck with the rest of the job. You'll get it. It's great to know our video series inspired you to tackle this job on your own. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Tim!
I learned this morning that to get enough clearance the top shifter plate had to be removed. Then you can back the transmission out of the engine. Then the clutch assembly had to be removed before there’s enough room to tip the trans forward and get it clear of the crossmember.
The pilot bearing put up a good fight, but did come free of the input shaft.
The ratchet strap idea in the comments was really helpful.
Onward…
@@ppeterson9359 Sounds like you've got quite the battle going on, but your perseverance is paying off. Let me know how it all turns out for you.
One last question, should any lube be applied to the sleeve the ID of the T/O bearing rides on? Since it’s not mentioned anywhere I’m thinking no, but figured I’d ask.
@@ppeterson9359 The only areas grease should be applied is what we show in the video.
Thanks so much for posting this and all of the other 4 Runner videos. Your videos have been an absolute lifesaver as I keep my 1st Gen Tacoma on the road!!!
You're very welcome. We're happy to know our videos are helping you out.
I've been following the steps and just dropped my transmission. big thanks. I'm confident I can follow the rest of your vid and get it back together,
Good luck with the rest of the job. Let us know how it went for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman well...took me a couple months. but did it a few bolts at a time and just drove it around the block a couple times. Seems like I put it back together correctly! my car was in pretty bad shape but I bought it as a project and i definitely put it back together than it was originally assembled. no more weird noises or smoke...for now.
How’s your truck? How it’s still running
@@cbdreamer1709 ran great until I sold it a couple months ago
I am going to attempt to do this to my truck, I am curious about trans fluid and lines, I didn't see or missed you removing them or draining the trans
Manual transmissions don't have fluid lines. You're thinking automatic transmissions. You don't need to drain the transmission gear oil for this job, but it wouldn't be a bad idea if it's been a while since the has fluid has been renewed.
@@TimmyTheToolman i was wondering why there were 7qts of gear oil in the parts list too! did mine recently, will remove from cart :)
Just finished following this video for prepping to pull my engine. Super thankful to Tim, and the guys that loan their rigs to help put together these resources. I owe you many a thanks, wish I could hit that like button more.
Thanks for stopping by to comment! Glad our video got you where you need to go. Technically you could hit the like button more, on our other videos 🤓
I took a shot every time he said "flexhead gearwrench ratchet", and now I'm writing this from my hospital bed.
All I read was blah, blah, blah. You're the type of guy that's entitled and thinks the world revolves around you. Sorry Bro, it doesn't work that way. Be happy we made a detailed video series to help you out. Now, do us a favor and go whine somewhere else.
You're videos are a GODSEND. I'm doing a 3.4 swap in my 1990 Toyota pickup Extended cab SR5 4x4 and getting the transmission in has been the hardest part for me so far. Pulling the 3.0 was crazy easy and dropping the transmission was cake. Even putting in the 3.4 was easy but holy bejesus getting the transmission in is AWFUL.
Hey Joseph, glad our video is helping you out. Getting the transmission mated to the engine is pretty tough. We found to get the final mating we needed to draw the trans to the engine using a couple of the bell housing bolts, one on each side. It's our belief the final hurdle is getting the input shaft to slide into the pilot bearing. It's not a press fit but it's a tight fit. I've talked with others who have done clutch jobs and they said the same thing. They drew the transmission to the block that last little bit using the bell housing bolts.
I'm so glad you've posted this one I've been looking all over for a good tutorial!! Love your videos keep it up!!
We will keep it up. Good luck with the job and let us know how it goes for you.
You sold me on the 120 point ratchet. Thanks for all the videos Tim!
You'll love those ratchets Jason. Money well spent. And, you're very welcome.
Timmy and Dan man y'all have straight up taught me how to do a Toyota transmission
@keengDavis-13xd That's great to know.
Disconnect the battery. Thanks for reminding me I gotta weld something. I always appreciate your videos
No problem Bro! We forget so we figured it doesn't hurt to remind people to do the basics. We're stoked you appreciate our videos. Happy Wrenching!
this will be useful for me in the next year or so, thanks for the effort put into this.
You're welcome and it was a ton of effort. This was a whole weekend of work not the mention the huge amount it took to edit it.
As always, another awesome video. And see you were actually in Raleigh, NC in the last year or so (TEQ Customs)…man, if I knew of their shop sooner and knew you were coming I would’ve loved to shake your hand (with cold beer) and give you a HUGE thank you!! Couldn’t have done the jobs I have without your expert (and LUV you incorporate FSM)….
@@jamessnyder9050 I'm coming back to North Carolina for another visit. We're having a party at TEQ Customs on Friday, November 1st. You should come.
@@TimmyTheToolman I’ll def put it on my calendar! Oh, and just sent you some beer $ :)
@@jamessnyder9050 I'm guessing the event will be advertised on the Triangle Toyota Facebook group. Jamie Obriant is organizing it. Thanks for the beer donation.
I noticed that the clip holding the throw out bearing to the fork is put on different on the centerforce vs oem. Is this way you show the correct way?? This is my 3rd time bringing down my tranny because something does not align.
What we show in the video is correct for the throwout bearing we used. I can maybe take a look at my factory service manual and see if they show a picture of the proper orientation of the spring for the OEM throwout bearing. I'm away from home and don't have access to my FSM. I could look for you in a couple days.
@TimmyTheToolman
Thank you. No need.
The spring is attached in a different manner on the centerforce vs oem. Thanks!
@@enmanuelcubas3401 I'm glad you figured it out.
Tremendous job on the explanation and detail combined with the camera work being well shot and lit. Great stuff men!!
Thanks Vlad. We appreciate the compliment.
Doing this job now on my wife's second Toyota, the first one I did was on her T100 4x4 SR5 long bed, now she has this 2001 Tacoma, I was contemplating actually loosing the motor mounts a little bit to get more tilt on the assembly transmission and engine to get to those top two bell housing bolts with out such a long extension(s), or possibly through the shifter plate hole with an air ratchet regardless probably going to need a wobble end on it. So far I've learned that the T100 is much easier to work on from clutch service aspect, and not so much from other aspects... lol
Good luck with the job. Long extensions are your friend when it comes to the top bell housing bolts. Wobble extensions can make a huge difference. Just make the investment in extensions.
Thank you guys! Just got done doing this by myself and wouldn’t have been able to without these videos.
You're very welcome. Good to hear our videos helped you get the job done. Great job knocking this job out on your own. You gained a bunch of experience and knowledge and saved a ton of money in the process. Happy Wrenching!
Is this the same process for a 03 tqcoma 3rz
Not 100% sure, but it would be my guess it's the exact same. I'm pretty sure you have the same R150F transmission, but you'll have to confirm.
My plan of attack was the same. Most folks take the crossmember off first. Or diff
Puts major load in the trans bolts
Cheers guys for this very-excellent two-part video set. I’ve been wondering about the health of the clutch in my Toyota Hiace camper van as it disengages almost as soon as the pedal is pressed. While it’s possible the pedal is out of correct adjustment the van is ~30y old (~150,000 miles) and I’m doing a pretty big refresh. Your much-appreciated content gave me the confidence to tackle this as the first gearbox and transfer out I’ve done. As you know many Toyotas of the 1990s and 2000s are really quite similar and the shafts on my van matched the bolt and stud pattern which was great. I made a simple adapter (that also adjusted for pitch and roll) to convert my 3T trolley jack into a transmission jack. My G52 4WD transmission came out a lot easier than Dan’s in the video largely as the pilot bearing stayed in place, but it’s old and notchy. I got the pilot bearing out with the ‘bread-and-a-M12-bolt’ technique. The Hiace has a hatch above the bell housing that gives some access to the top bolts and helps with removing the starter motor (and flywheel) and I didn’t have to remove the exhaust pipe, but did have to unbolt its bracket. My manual does say to remove the sway bar and there is also a picture that shows the types of each of the bell housing bolts and their tightening torque. Bad luck with the bell housing to gearbox bolts, but I don’t think you need to remove the bell housing to replace the front oil seal in the gearbox. While access is better with it out, I think all the bolts to remove the gearbox front bearing retainer are accessible with the bell housing in place. I won’t be replacing mine as it’s all good in there but will be doing the engine rear seal. There’s just a little weep but it seems sensible to replace it as I’ve currently got the flywheel out.
Very many thanks for taking the time to make your videos. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the comment. We learned after the fact the bell housing didn't need to come off to replace the front seal. Oh well.
Yet another very nice and detailed video 👏🏼🙌🏼 love your guys’s channel can’t wait for the reassembly part 2 cheers
Thanks Edwin. Great to hear you like the videos Sean and I are making.
Timmy The Toolman no problem 🙌🏼
Awesome Tim, you are the man! Thanks so much for all these videos
Thanks and you're very welcome. Don't forget Sean and Dan though. They're just as responsible for making this video series happen. Good luck with the job and Happy Wrenching!
If you watch the removal of the clutch fork/throwout bearing and pay attention to the orientation of the wire retaining clip that holds them together.... looks like he reassembled it differently.... which is correct? Watch starting at 51:00....
I see what you mean, but if you're concerned about the correct orientation, jut pay attention to the way it looks when you pull out the clutch fork and throw-out bearing and mimic that orientation when you put it back together with the new parts. All I can say is Dan has been running his rig since the job was done with no issues. If the orientation of the retaining clip for the bearing was wrong, I guess it wasn't that important.
@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the response.... I was specifically focused on that part of the video because my throwout bearing sort of just fell out when removing as the stamped steel part is in 4 pieces. Appreciate your videos, huge help!
@@CaptainSkidmark74 You're welcome.
In your opinion would it be better to have a single 36" socket extension to reach the top two bell housing bolts, or piece together shorter extensions including a wobbler?
Thanks
A single 36" wobble extension would be pretty nice to have for this type of work.
? 43:33 ... quick question regarding a Rear Main Seal leak inspection... is this access plate the only way to check for weeping or will a noticeable pool of oil develop on the ground or around the bottom of this plate if that seal is weeping
If the leak is significant, it will drain down and be noticeable at the access plate on the bottom of the bell housing.
I had my pilot bearing break on me the exact same way, it is almost seized onto the input shaft. Going to give that bearing puller kit a try tomorrow!
I knew we couldn't have been the only ones this has had to. Good luck pulling the pilot bearing race off the input shaft and good luck with the rest of the job.
Question; is this "easier" to do if I come from the front? I have the head out right now and thinking in pulling out the block to send to machine shop as well; Transmission I am hopping to leave in the truck; while at it, is it not "easier" to replace the clutch and all these components since the transmission can stay in place ---- OR ---- the transmission needs to be also pulled out with the block? my concern would be once the engine is assembled if I can guide the whole thing with the clutch in it into the transmission, I mean the crankshaft shaft; my clearance from engine block to front is about 8 inches, or may need to assembly everything outside then guide the whole transmission and engine into the bay? This is a 2000 Toyota Tacoma, seems I can slide to the sides the steering pump and the ac compressor without disturbing the lines; the radiator is out but the condenser radiator is not. In my case what it sucks is I do have a hydraulic half lift from Max Jax in my garage but this truck is outside on the side of the house, the lift is occupied with our 2015 Chrysler Town and Country which needs the engine back on, it is ready to assembly but have not done it, now I need "a car" anyone of the 2 as we got not running vehicle and thought it would be easier for me to get the Tacoma running but to work on it i would not be able to use the lift unless work on the TC first and get it off the lift, then I would have to push the Tacoma from the side to the garage to use the lift but at that point it would be without the engine on it...wondering if and what is worth it and what works best and the faster way to get one of them running??? any inside would be greatly appreciated~!!
You can pull the engine to do the clutch job. The transmission doesn't have to be removed. You will struggle a bit to get the engine mated up to the transmission. Having some extra people helping would be advised. You can watch our 3.0 to 3.4 swap series at the part where we're installing the engine for some tips. ua-cam.com/video/_YevoE7Xw7s/v-deo.htmlsi=h5FkNYFwbWKBBHrK
@@TimmyTheToolman Awesome!! thank you so much for that, I have been all day today chewing on leave the engine block in and fix the head then put it back and then do the block at a later time but i struggled so much to get the head out that I think the best thing to do is to take an extra week or 2 if needed but to get everything done in one shot specially if doing it without the lift which have me furious; to have the lift and not being able to use it! specially I bought it specifically to do this job with this car because of the 2 trans bolts on top that you used a bunch of extensions; i have a 48" bar for it! but that is all easier with the car lifted
Regarding Marlin Crawler’s HD seats used in video…MC also has a HD socket for 3rd gen T4R…any reason why chose not to use that also? On MC site, says best to incorporate both seat and socket for max performance. Perhaps just an oversight?
Do you have a link to this "socket" because I'm not sure what you're referring to.
At 52:27, is that the correct orientation of the throw out bearing retainer? That is opposite of how the old one was installed earlier in the vid and is also not what I’ve seen? Thx!
Watch it again, it is the correct orientation
FYI, when I picked up my motor from Yota1 I asked the mechanic there and they told me the orientation as shown here is incorrect - the ends of the retaining clip go behind the fork, not on top of the throw out bearing tangs. But he also said it doesn’t matter too much since once assembled since it can’t go anywhere. Just wanted to follow up. When I watched again, the old retaining clip is correctly oriented when being removed at 51:01. Thanks! These videos have been super helpful during my engine swap!
@timmythetoolman, it seems like some of the online FSMs that are hosted do NOT include the manual transmission section. Have you found that to be the case also? Curious what volume or edition you have for yours (outside of it being for a 2000). Thinking about purchasing one to have on hand going forward.
For 3rd Gen 4runner jobs, I don't use an online manual. I have the physical books. If you get an actual Toyota FSM, it will complete. Just look up your year on Ebay and you'll find a set for sale.
This is a great video! I really dug the Foot to Face Institute T-shirt! Lol. Thank you guys!
We're glad you like it. A buddy of mine who was my roommate for a while found that t-shirt at a Goodwill store. I love that shirt.
I'm about to do this job on my tacoma. And I have a whine to my input shaft bearing. Does the cover you can see @ the 51:12 mark just unbolt and be able to replace the bearing or do I need to split the case to get it out?
That cover comes off and that houses the input shaft seal. How you replace the bearing, I'm not sure. Never tried it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you. Very impressed with your response time. You do amazing videos!
@@adamortiz1512 You're welcome Adam. Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it!
Hey Timmy what’s the part number for the bolts that snapped trying to get the bellhousing off the transmission? I only have 8 for some reason and want to get the 9th
Sorry, don't know the part number. Your best bet is visiting your local dealer and they can sell you one.
Wish I could take my 4Runner to you guys. I have a 97 4cylinder and cannot find throttle cable....Any advice how to make a universal cable work? My local has no ideas.
Never tried to make a throttle cable. I'm guessing Toyota doesn't make it anymore?
I have a 2001 4 runner 4wd but need to replace the flywheel do I have to completely pull the transmission or can you move it back far enough to change it?
You can most likely move the transmission back far enough to have enough room to remove the flywheel. But, this is something we haven't ever tried.
My throw out bearing is starting to chirp. Thinking of doing this job soon. I noticed by looking into the transmission that the tb is just barely touching causing it to spin. Though it’s suppose to not touch when clutch is disengaged? If so do you know what the cause might be and how to solve it?
@@liamroberts7054 That's a good question. I know a properly adjusted clutch pedal has free play, meaning there's a little bit of play between the fully retracted clutch pedal and the beginning of feeling resistance when you apply the clutch pedal. I've never looked inside the transmission like you have to see what's going on, but I would think it shouldn't be touching the pressure plate when the clutch pedal is fully released. I wish I could give you a definitive answer. I can do a little research and see what I can find.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah that would be awesome. I don’t think it’s supposed to touch the pressure plate but I wasn’t sure. I have messed with the free play a bunch and noting made a difference, now have the free play set to spec. The only way it would stop making contact was when I pushed the shift fork in a little.
@@TimmyTheToolman it doesn’t take much to make it stop contacting, it’s just barley touching causing it to spin.
here's a PDF of the relevant pages from the factory service manual for anyone interested in doing this job that may not have a hard copy drive.google.com/open?id=1loZStxzHQdLGhYde_-rzXTA7lfTDn0QV
This is awesome info. thanks for adding this resource to our video for others to use.
Thank you!!!!!!! I downloaded a manual but cannot find it in there.
? 24:28 O2 sensor connector mount post is broken, what is the proper procedure to remove this so it does not break? Timmy I noticed on your personal rig (on another video of yours) that your connector mount post here did not appear to be broken like on this one?
I can't remember how the release works to get the connector free of its mount. Some of those types of connector mounts are a pain in the ass to disconnect, and that's why it was broken. Somebody lost patience and manhandled it. It's not a big deal and one of the reasons zipties were invented.
@@TimmyTheToolmansqueeze and push!
no slide involved...
@@TimmyTheToolman for some perhaps not a big deal!, but to others that wish for their rig to be unmolested it is a big deal! i am sure there are those of you out there LOL
it cost me 100$ to learn how to take these off properly. I was trying to figure out how to take the crank sensor harness off the oil guide tube on the '96 Corolla and broke it. Bot a new one to see what parts it came with. the slider part of that connector (allows for movement) is not a separate piece that i can tell and will NOT disconnect that i can find.
if you wrench that bracket off the transfer case (or perhaps a needle nose pilers if you can reach it behind the bracket) there are two hard plastic wings that squeeze gently and push it through the hole. clean any crud behind those wings so it squeezes better.
it might be the same type of connector on the black 5VZFE front that i think is the crank position sensor mount?
If a DIYer needs your instruction regarding using tools, I can't imagine them getting this job done. A DIYer needs to learn to fight through learning to use tools.
You need to spray the alignment dowels and exhaust bolts with PB Blaster or Kroil. Makes a big difference.
Well Mark, I disagree with you. Teaching new people about tools is important and we're going to continue describing to people the tools we're using in our videos. Total beginners have performed involved jobs, like a timing belt replacement, by following our videos. Our videos are all about empowering people to do their own automotive work,, and that includes detailed explanations of the tools we're using..
We did use lots of Kroil and heat on the exhaust bolts. The stud that broke on the passenger side is the same stud that broke on us when doing an 3.4 engine swap.
@@TimmyTheToolman If you used Kroil, why did you not mention it. That is far more instructional that how to use an extension. Teach that Kroil is great for pulleys and alignment dowels and PB Blaster is great for those rusted exhaust bolts. The PB Blaster needs 5 minutes to work. Kroil does not work as well on rust but give it 20 minutes on a Honda or Toyota crank shaft pulley and they pop right off.
I have extra long bolts that have the same thread as the tranny attachment bolts. I align the tranny with these long bolts while it is a couple inches out. This helps it slide right into the pilot bearing. It can also be a great safety when trying to get the tranny loose and secured to the jack. Ratchet straps across under the tranny and over the frame rails is another safety. I learned the hard way. A GM 700R4 landed on my head because it wasn't balanced. Safety tips are far more valuable.
Rather than charting bolts, I just screw them back in when I see a difference.
I was hoping to learn any challenges specific to a V-6 4Runner. I'll be doing a clutch for my daughter in a week or so.
@@idadho Because we don't always remember to say everything we do. If you've ever been our shoes making a video, it's a lot of work and a lot of talking. We don't have a script. Everything said is taken right off the top of our head at that moment for the most part. Penetrant from what I've learned only gets you so far. It's not a miracle worker. What I have found for exhaust bolts is I almost always have to combine penetrant and heat to be successful removing stuck fasteners without breaking them. On both those exhaust studs that broke on different jobs, both were pre-treated several times day(s) in advance and still they fought us.
I've heard of using longer bolts as alignment bolts to help marry the trans to the engine. I used this technique recently for a 3.0 to 3.4 swap video we filmed on a 2nd Gen 4runner. For 3 different manual transmissions I've helped install, all of them required the trans pulled into the block the last 1/2" or so with the bell housing bolts. They never just slide all the way in like they can with an auto trans installation because the input shaft fitment into the pilot bearing is tight.
We have also used ratchet straps as a safety but I can't remember if we used them in this video. We definitely used them when we first separate the transfer case from the trans like we did on an auto trans swap on a 3rd Gen 4runner and like we recently did on an auto trans swap on a FJ Cruiser. We also used a ratchet strap to support the front of a manual trans for the 3.0 to 3.4 Swap Video. Once the engine is out, the trans is majorly front heavy and put a huge strain on the transmission mount.
So Mark, we're not perfect and we are constantly learning. What I can say without a doubt is we are doing incredible things for the Toyota DIY Auto Mechanic community. We try to always give the best information possible at the time we are shooting. When there's further information or techniques we learn, we add that information to the video description of a pinned comment.
You sound like you know your way around auto mechanics and so do we. We don't know it all and we don't claim to. You have your opinions and so do we and we don't need to agree with you. Your comment about DIYers not being able to accomplish this job if they require instruction on tools is absolutely false. We have proven this time and time again with the comments we've gotten from people who have used our videos.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm one of those who appreciates being shown tools that you use, as well as alternatives to the tools like Home Depot sourced stuff for the budget folks. I've used both, largely because you took the time to show us how things work. I have attacked a good number of repairs on my old beater Tacoma over the years and it's still on the road today because YOU showed me how to do it! Stuff that I would otherwise have NEVER attempted on my own. LOVE your video's Tim! Keep up the good work sir!
Like you have said in the past, if the video is too long, or there is a section you don't want to watch, there is a little button on your viewer to [Fast Forward] over that part. ;)
@@duaneweikum Thanks Duane. We appreciate your commentary. Great to hear our videos have helped you out.
Timmy you should do HONDA on a Separate UA-cam video “ Timmy D’ Honda”
The way you explain things on part by parts are very easy to follow. I like it! Do HONDA Brother!
Thanks but I sort of doubt that will happen. I did own a Honda Accord for quite a few years. Great car. Took me lots of places, mostly to mountain bike races, and it never left me stranded.
Best stuff on UA-cam, right here.
You have given me so much help on this job. I'm an accomplished shade tree, have built several vehicles, but never had such an easy time since you have laid out the bolt sizes, access, etc. I need to get some money to you to help out in return. How do I do that?
Thanks for the nice compliment. Great to hear our video series helped you out. We do have a tip jar link on the bottom right corner of our home page picture so people can donate. There was enough people asking us how they could donate so we decided to create the tip jar. We really don't expect money donations though. We just like hearing back from people like you who appreciate the videos we're making. Hearing how our videos help people is our favorite form of payment. Happy Wrenching!
Any idea what that plug is on the transmission at 26:50? I'm battling a P0500 code and it says "speed sensor A" and I'm wondering if that's related (1996 4runner converted to manual 4x4 with elocker...has abs so I thought speed sensor would just be the abs hall-effect sensors in the hubs)
Not sure what that sensor is. If the trans speed sensor was bad, I would assume the mph on your dash cluster wouldn't be working. I'm guessing it's reporting an issue with one of the ABS sensors at the wheels. Update, I just looked it up and it does appear a P0500 is related the speed sensor on the trans. Maybe go your local dealer parts department and see if they can identify for you where the speed sensor is located on your trans.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply! my spedometer is still working and I've already checked the abs sensors (no trans speed sensor). I'm beginning to suspect the wires between the spedometer and the ECU. Just trying to eliminate other possibilities.
What’s the name of the sensor shown in 26:48? Mine is badly corroded and is going to need replaced.
Sorry Mark, I don't remember what that sensor is. If you go to your local dealer they could bring up a parts schematic and tell you what it is. That's what I would do.
Those bell housing bolts were a heart breaker. I have this job in the near future, outside on a gravel driveway. Gonna lay a sheet of 3/4" plywood down for the tranny jack to roll on. Cant wait!!
Good luck with the job.
Hey, Tim,
Do you know if the flywheel comes with those three studs or bolts attached or need to be bought separatedly on Toyota dealer?
Are you talking about the alignment dowels on the fly wheel that the clutch pressure plate slides onto?
Yeah, I do not know the actual name of those three, but I am about to buy a flywheel and I do not want to realize I am missing those while installing it. So I was wondering if you could confirm.
Do you know where could I buy the aligning tool for the shaft of the transmision into the clutch?
@jacobliddiard158 It usually comes with the clutch kit.
@@TimmyTheToolman I am buying everything through the dealer, that's why I was asking.
AWESOME! I've been waiting for this one!! THANKS
You're very welcome Jon. This was a big job that we couldn't pass up on. Hope you like it.
Thanks for doing all that you guys do!
You're welcome Eric. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Is the balance weight for the transfer case fixed to the bracket or loose? Mine floats & moves inside the bracket.
Are you talking the dynamic dampner?
Very well thought out Informative tutorial video timmy great video
Thanks Antonio.
Hey Tim, at 26:56 you remove a final connector. What is that sensor? I think it's the reverse light switch but I'm not sure. Mine started leaking the other day and I'd like to get it fixed before it drains my transmission. Thanks for your great videos!
I'm not sure either. You could try looking it up on www.partsouq.com. They have good parts schematics you can reference and hopefully identify the sensor. Another option is just go to your local Toyota dealer parts department and ask them for help. You can explain where it is on the transmission and that will narrow down what sensor it is.
@@TimmyTheToolman No luck at partsouq but that's a great site I'll go there again. I'll stop by my toyota dealer and see what they have to say. Thanks for your help!
@@ZACHATTACK9696 The dealers have all the parts schematics so they will definitely be able to tell you what that sensor is.
can i use the video as reference for my 1980 4 speed trans? or is the modern clutch too different
Sure you could use it as a reference. The parts probably won't translate but the general steps on how to remove the transmission and do a clutch job will be very similar.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you never fail to help me out
@@corbs3535 You're welcome Bro. We're here to help.
Wish I could find one of these 2000 4runner factory service manuals there so hard to find
They're not hard to find. Just search on Ebay. You'll find a set for sale on problem.
10:49 ... this rig has the push-button on the transfer shift lever? ... his hand is sorta covering it up for a good look at it
It wasn't a push button style. Push button style knobs don't screw off. There'a a set screw you remove on the side of the shifter and then it slides off the shift rod.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the education.. That deserves an option for a beer! This '97 tacoma I have found a loosey goosey unconnected connector with a blue end hanging of the side of the recently installed yota1 r150F and I was hunting for clues on where it goes and what it is doing there. Maybe it goes to the forward O2 sensor that I still haven't located high up there
The torque spec you listed for the bell housing bolts is 53. Is that the torque for the bell housing bolts that mount to the transmission as well? (The bolts that you snapped to replace the seal)
I looked in my Toyota manual and it doesn't show the spec for those bolts that attach the bell housing to the transmissions. You'll just have to use your best judgement.
the OG '97 Taco 5VZ-FE MT has so far made it 280k miles on the original clutch sans master/slave cylinder (mostly highway miles) but the bearing is chattering in the cold and no noticeable slipping yet in gear up steep grades. Will the bearing eventually lock freeze up and not allow me to shift into or out of gears? ....trying to get 1/3 million miles before this eventual repair
Well, once the bearing gets bad enough, it might fall apart and then you won't be able to shift gears. If it were me, I'd address it before it potentially leaves you stranded. If you don't take long trips in it and you're not opposed to potentially having to tow it back to your house, keep driving it and hope it doesn't completely fail before the clutch gives out.
@@TimmyTheToolman that is what i am afraid of, getting stranded in the nowhere midWest! with temps falling to below freezing and NO heated garage, it will have to be put off for six months. the current pricing for the OEM flywheel is from 512$ to 741$ which is RICH! won't know if its bad and needs replaced until it comes out. Is the Marlin Crawler flywheel (that is 150$ at the time of this video) similar or better quality than OEM. thanks!
@@efil4kizum I really don't know how Marlin Crawler flywheels compare to OEM, but when we did this job with Dan, he did his research and read good things about the Marlin Crawler clutch parts, so I think Marlin Crawler is probably a good way to go.
update... made it to 337k miles (Oct-'23)... bearing is chattering very nicely... tentatively scheduled for pro repair 1st week of December in ChicagoLand once the clutch cover part ever comes in off 4 month backorder
OEM flywheel is now over 800$ MSRP as of Oct-'23 whoa!
Timmy! My car wouldn’t start the other day my buddy says the fly wheel snapped the other day at the lake and I had to get a tow. I drive a 2002 automatic, is there any major differences I should know before taking my tranny apart? Thanks!
Hey Mike, you actually have a flex plate and not a fly wheel but that's not a big deal. We have a video series for swapping out an auto trans from a 3rd Gen 4runner. You wouldn't necessarily have to separate the transfer case from the trans like we did if you have a 4wd but the rest of the video series would help you get the job done. You can confirm the flex plate broke by taking off the access cover off the bottom of the bell housing and take a look. How did your buddy know it's a broken flex plate and not just a bad starter? Here's a link to Part 1 of our Auto Trans Swap video series: ua-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/v-deo.html
Hey Tim, I am doing an engine swap on my 4runner, are you able to take the engine out with the clutch still attached to the flywheel? Or do I have to remove the clutch from underneath the vehicle in order to get the engine out of the engine bay?
The clutch and pressure plate can stay bolted to the flywheel when removing the engine.
I was wondering where is the rest of the video where you install the input shaft seal
We never got to that point because of the debacle with the bell housing bolts breaking off in the housing. We chose not to replace the input shaft seal. I guess you missed us saying that. But, our recent 22RE Engine Swap video series covers replacing an input shaft seal. We were mistaken about the need to pull the bell housing off to access the seal. The bell housing does not need to come off. We cover input shaft seal replacement in Part 2: ua-cam.com/video/hZRwijhMTH0/v-deo.html
I wasnt able to get my 1/2 inch extensions to fit all the way back to the bolthead for the top of the bellhousing. Just not enough space in between the tranny and body. Anyone know of another point of access?
You should be able to get 1/2" extensions in there. Do you have wobble extensions. There is no other point of access unless you try through the shifter hole. You could try 3/8" extensions instead if you truly can't get a 1/2" extension between the trans and body. There is no "anyone" other than us that will see your comment and help you. If you want that sort of help, a Toyota forum or Toyota Facebook group would be your best bet. You can also get a jack under the trans, remove the cross member and lower the trans a bit so it's further away from the body.
Would the torque specs be the same on a 93 Toyota pickup 2wd 22re?
Don't know if they are the same but you could take a look at our 22RE engine swap video Part 3 for those torque values. ua-cam.com/video/ZNlFScmbgDY/v-deo.html
I liked the last part lol we’re good if it ain’t broke don’t fix it the house won
Anyone know if this is a similar process for t100s same years? Motors the same, trans is the same, should all be the same right? Just wondering if there’s anything at all ,even small, that’s different.
It should be all the same.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you Tim!
@@Christiones You're very welcome!
Hopefully you can upload doing clutch job for automatic transmission next time. or is it econmical to buy new one and put it in?
We will most likely not be rebuilding an automatic transmission any time soon or ever. We do have a video series showing how to swap one out though.
yup watched that video. I guess when that time comes, following that video step by step. thanks for all the hard work!
@@akdkdk12 You're welcome Stephen.
Nice way of using a bearing splitter
It was the right tool for the job. That pilot bearing inner race was locked onto the input shaft of the transmission.
Next time you have to remove drive shafts, leave the shifters connected first so that you can select neutral and a gear and it'll hold the driveshafts in place and still allow it to spin freely
Yeah, that would work just as well as setting and releasing the parking brake. Same result, different technique.
Timmy the tool man my favorite!
Thanks!
Its pretty easy to get to the top 2 bolts through the shifter housing instead of using all those extensions
I can see that working. Thanks for sharing.
Why my Toyota Tacoma 1996 5VZFE is too hard to go into 1st shift? I already changed 1) Clutch press, 2) Clutch disc, 3) Master cylinder, 4) Slave cylinder, 5) Shift stick bushings, 6) Manual transmission gear oil, 7) Clutch fluid, 8) Clutch lines bleed Help please :-(
1st shift or gear goes in if I try to get it in while I am moving and about to stop, but not when I start from 0mph.
Have you adjusted the clutch pedal free play? The amount of play in the pedal before you feel the throw-out bearing push onto the pressure plate should be 5 - 15mm
How to check shocks to see if they are good or bad?
@isaias.ramon.gonzalez.angel.63 Push down on the front and rear of the vehicle. If the suspension sinks, rises, and stops fairly quickly, the shocks are probably still good. If the vehicle keeps moving and swaying, the shocks are shot.
How long does it take to replace clutch for all Toyota models?
Come on Juan, how could anyone answer that question. All Toyots models? The time is going to be different for each one. A Toyota dealership with their computer program to figure the time for a job could tell you. We're not a dealership so we can't answer that question. What I can tell you is it's an involved job. Plan on spending an entire day doing it. If you run into issues and you have to get parts or tools you don't have, it's going to take longer.
Why did you remove the bellhousing?
We were thinking while the trans was out that we would remove the input shaft seal, because if it develops a leak later, the trans has to come out again. What I learned from others is that this seal rarely develops a leak so the fact we blew off replacing the seal after having such a struggle getting the bell housing bolts out ended up being good decision.
Is it possible for the transmission or transfer to leak from these areas. I gotta leak. Lol
What areas?
@ sorry the shifter seat?
@@cbdreamer1709 Yes, a deteriorated shifter seat for the manual transmission or transfer cases can allow gear oil leak out.
@ thanks. I’ll check that first. Hopefully it’s not a maiting point. Don’t know where else could be leaking
Yeah I'm gonna order stage 1 clutch when it wears out or a heavy duty one that would last
That would be a smart plan. Who the hell wants to do this job more than once? Not me, but I bet I will be doing it again for someone at some point.
My original clutch lasted over 300k miles. This was on my 1997 4Runner. Still had some material left on it but I decided to replace it due to me taking a long road trip last summer.
@@Rhaspun You and any other previous owners obviously know how to use a clutch if it lasted that long.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm the original and current owner. This 4 Runner has been the most reliable vehicle I've ever owned. Even the rear brake shoes lasted over 300k miles. I think it's more of a Toyota thing myself. Clutches on the different sport cars I've had didn't run like the one on my 4Runner.
@@Rhaspun You may be right. It could also be a fact that more freeway and highway miles were driven also. I would think someone who does lots of stop and go city driving would wear out a clutch much faster than someone who mostly just cruises down the highway. So, mileage is relative when it comes to things like clutches and brakes. The conditions it was driven to achieve that mileage is a huge factor to longevity of the wear parts like brake pads and clutches.
Excellent footage along with teamwork to remove the transmission brother Tim!! Wow, those three bell housing bolts-didn't see that coming, especially when there was hardly any corrosion. Did the factory cross thread them?
Thanks Brother Jake. I think the problem with the bell housing bolts is it's a steel bolt going into an aluminum housing. If any moisture at all gets into those threads, the two dissimilar metals can get pretty much welded together. I don't think the factory cross threaded them.
@@TimmyTheToolman That is very likely what happened. Never know what you're going to get into when you start tearing these things and parts and, by the way, I am still waiting for my buddy so we can finish his power steering rack...I know it's been ongoing!!
@@8953147 I can't remember, are you just replacing the rack or are you attempting to rebuild it?
@@TimmyTheToolman we started by replacing his steering rack on his 2002 Sequoia, and then it led to the upper and lower control arms and ball joints, then repairing corrosion... It has become a long term project for us. Will keep you updated.
@@8953147 Roger that Jake,
Where in the 2,000+ page FSM is the manual transmission stuff???
Found it a few comments down.........thanks @preferablyoutside !!!!!!!
Has your friend noticed any new leak from his rear main seal? I'm of the mind to bottom out my rear main as y'all have but am finding mixed opinions on this across the internet. I would assume that the sealing surface of the crank is uniform and seal depth is irrelevant as long as it's not crooked or riding over a groove. Thanks!
He doesn't have any leaks. All good.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for the quick reply, tim. Cheers!
@@joshuaelkins9943 You're welcome.
hi, those torques work for 1kzte model
Don't know if those torque values will work for your application.
Replacing the clutch fork needed???
Replacing the clutch fork would only be needed if there is excessive wear where the clutch fork pivots on the ball. Other than that, the clutch fork can be reused. Our buddy Dan chose to replace his clutch fork but he could have reused his.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thankyou
@@madvtecyo546 You're welcome.
3rd gen 4runner plugs always fight no matter what it goes to inhave that problem alot with the fog light plugs
Yeah, the electrical plugs can be a pain in the butt to disconnect. I've fought many working on these rigs.
Grease and bread is most common also seen peanut butter and bread used
We never got a chance to use our puller since the bearing fell apart removing the trans.
Why didn't you just remove the 4 bolts that hold the shiftier and transfer case shiftier in instead of removing the snap ring?
You could do it that way as well. Personal preference.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks, i was just curious.
@@mikerundell3907 Yeah, there's quite often more than one way to do things when working on these rigs. Sometimes we show the easiest and most straightforward way to go about doing a task and other times we miss something that would have made our lives easier.
Nice stage 2 clutch
Yeah and hopefully it lasts Dan a long time.
It's advised not to ever use an impact driver/wrench to crack/loosen vehicle bolts as you now know. Once they are cracked, if they are free turning, you can use the impact from there.
That's not the reason why the bolts broke. It was due to corrosion involving dissimilar metals, - steel bolts into an aluminum housing. If you think transmission rebuilders or engine rebuilders break every bolt free with a ratchet, think again.
3 of my bolts snapped and I used breaker bar then by ratchet and I felt the stop backing out and I tried heat which probably didn’t help so I’m in same boat lol
Are you talking about the bell housing bolts?
Timmy The Toolman yup.... I had to laugh at that part cause I was like damm I’m not mad anymore lol
@@sas86toy Damn. So heat did nothing. There's not theory down the drain. I guess it's just a case of getting ready to break bolts if you have to get that bell housing off. Thanks for sharing your experience. This is good to know.
Timmy The Toolman what I figured lol and it was pretty much the same ones 1 on lower middle left and 2 in middle right
That sucks that the bell housing bolts snapped since you already hat to re tap the holes and get the broken bolts out all that work I would of replaced that seal
Well, we would have still had to get the bearing cover off which was held on with a lot more bolts that might have broken off on us. After spending at least a couple hours drilling and retapping holes for his bell housing, we weren't about to possibly go through all of that again if one or more of the bearing cover bolts broke off too. Feel me?
@@TimmyTheToolman I feel you
I've been waiting for this video 😂😭🙏 thank you yota guru for the boost of confidence
Well, you're prayers were answered then. You're welcome and good luck with the job when you get around to doing it.
Lmfao at the tshirt foot to face institution
A buddy of mine found that shirt for me at a Good Will location. I love that shirt.
instead of drilling bell housing bolts, should of tried "building" up recessed bolts with welder until you get a nub, then weld a nut on to it, with the heat of the weld, slowly back the nut and the stud out. Easier than trying to drill it out
phxamigo if we had a welder that could definitely be an option. That was not a tool we had in our arsenal unfortunately
Many thanks! 🙏🏽🌞♥️
You're very welcome!
Thank you so much
You're very welcome. Good luck with the job.
I didnt have to undo my exhaust to pull the trans, 1998 non cali emissions
Lucky you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was just wondering if this might be possible....I guess I'll find out tomorrow if I might be lucky too.
@@ETPinball to get it back in I didn't use a trans jack, was easier to maneuver it with the trans on my chest pick it up
you wore that clutch down very well though. I bet it was doing great until it had to be changed
I find hnob leave, thank you
I have absolutely no clue what you just said buy you're welcome.
Damn I caught that Queso xD
Hahaha! “Ok, so” = QUESO
- Sean 😎