I didn’t have to remove anything besides the upper control arm then I could wobble it out then put tape on my new one to protect the threads and it poped right in its better to keep as much ball joints attached so the knuckle doesn’t crack when you go to hit it
You both made me free good. Did the same…both sides…by myself, in the cloud, and crammed with not a small garage, with poor lighting. About 3 hours total. I replaced the passenger side intermediate shaft as well. Super simple.
I just did a CV axle on my truck for the first time, the inner joint was severely rusted onto the shaft. I tried every trick I could find on UA-cam to try and get it out. I was prying on it and hitting it with a 4lb sledge for hours. I tried hooking a chain to it and pulling on it with a floor jack, I went and bought a slide hammer with the vice grip attachment. I cut grooves into it so I could hook onto it with the 3 jaw slide hammer attachment, I put a come-a-long on a pry bar to maintain force against it, heated it with a torch, and used a slide hammer at the same time this thing did not budge it was really stuck. My final and successful trick was to cut the thing off with an angle grinder! I accidentally cut the splines a little bit, hopefully this doesn't cause me problems in the future.
Ain't that the truth! Never goes this easy. Getting the right side cv axle off I went through this nightmare. A 10 lb slide hammer and chain, and hours of ripping it out until the whole diff seal and stub shift tore out, and had to replace those after. Nightmare!
How close does the inner CV joint come to the dust seal at the center? I’ve done everything to push mine in and it’s still a half inch from seating and it has a little play.
So for all the dodge people and 4x4, I had different rims and tires and after like 6 months it’s making like a warping sound when I drive you can tell it’s something rotating but also feel vibration in the steering wheel and the pedals if my foot is against it
I just surfed for something as to base on my (sound issue). I took my wheel off, turned the studs which turns the shalf you just pulled out. [I just started hearing a clunk-clunk sound) When turning it slowly, like a skip drop skip sound. Why, did you replace this item friend, J-Bob's Garage? I'm more than greatful for your insight, I'm not a mechanic, but have through my younger years a gresse monkey as a kid. The link above is for the purchasing of the item? Why, Bob rocks. I'm now Subscribed to allvidoes.. What are these units for? Sorry for all the questions brother. My truck is a 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Karl
I am trying to replace the hub on my 2010 1500 having trouble removing the 3 bolts connection hub to control arm do i have to follow all these steps just back the cv joint away from hub?
@@chevybossman1 no way you will buy OEM for that price...EBAY is not through Dodge. They retail for $133.99 at parts stores for decent ones with a lifetime warranty.
there's so many things I wish Ide known before buying a 2015 4th gen like getting air bags , without leaf springs God damn grandma's old 89 station wagon can handle more weight in the back . I went to get a yard of packing sand one bucket full with the front end loader and she drops I said is that it the gut says there's 2 more bucket full left but I h8ghly recommend not putting any more in lol. one more I said she'll handle it well holy f%$& I had to limp home . after that I had to grab 33 bundles of shingles not thinking 70lbs each it won't be bad well 110 km with only just over 2000 lbs it's the most unstable rear end in ant truck I've owned . the quality of the rise over capability of max load isn't justified . air bags should be mandatory for. a 4x4 if there's no leaf springs . Toyota will be my next truck screw dodge thetbmade too many wrong decisions on this one
Got any connections for the intermediate shaft with seals and bearings for the passenger side front differential that fits 2015 ran 1500 . I dont want to replace the whole front differential assembly which a used one is 1800 bucks just shaft and bearings and seals if not is there some other parts i can rig something up . Dodge really stuck it to us 4th gen ram owners by only supplying essiential services vehicles. Should be againste the law to sell a vehicle and not sell certain parts to the public. A quick fix would save so many people thousands and would put s stop to the vibration at low speeds in the front end and save cv axles and every other front end part it takes down with time not to mention that gas peoole would save.
Wow! So many things done wrong in this video. Right down to the sockets used in the impact. NEVER use standard sockets on an impact. They’ll shatter and Fucking your day up.
@@baps1137 driver i finally got it off after useing torch warm up and drilled and added almost half can of penetrating oil and welded up a metal piece and beat that daym axel off was a battle
Derek B okay thanks for tip. I even rigged up a bearing puller to push on the stub axle and while pulling on the CV axel. Seems like the keeper won’t release
The boot usually splits and slings all of the grease out on the control arm and inside of the wheel well. If you don't notice that, you'll notice the CV joint is bad after it's been run dry.
Anyone who can help I have 2017 and at super slow speeds I hear a like very faint pop/click from left wheel side I’ve read wheel hub but could it be a bad cv joint none of the boots are ripped or look bad
Wheel bearing likely. Jack it up and pull on the inside of the tire outward, 12 +6 and 3+9 positions. If any moving t or popping, change wheel bearing hub kit. Do both sides as they should be done in pairs.
Wow, are y'all mudding or driving faster in 4wd that is recommended? I have always owned a ram 1500 since 1995, and have NEVER had an axle issue. Just wondering what's up with that? Luck of the draw or?
You don't need to remove the hub, just loosen top nut of upper control and pull out and leave bottom attached.
That did allow enough room for mine.
I didn’t have to remove anything besides the upper control arm then I could wobble it out then put tape on my new one to protect the threads and it poped right in its better to keep as much ball joints attached so the knuckle doesn’t crack when you go to hit it
Depends…had to remove my entire control arm: 2010 Ram. However, removing it was easy. Had to use a sledge to pop one of the lower joints free.
You both made me free good. Did the same…both sides…by myself, in the cloud, and crammed with not a small garage, with poor lighting. About 3 hours total. I replaced the passenger side intermediate shaft as well. Super simple.
I just did a CV axle on my truck for the first time, the inner joint was severely rusted onto the shaft. I tried every trick I could find on UA-cam to try and get it out. I was prying on it and hitting it with a 4lb sledge for hours. I tried hooking a chain to it and pulling on it with a floor jack, I went and bought a slide hammer with the vice grip attachment. I cut grooves into it so I could hook onto it with the 3 jaw slide hammer attachment, I put a come-a-long on a pry bar to maintain force against it, heated it with a torch, and used a slide hammer at the same time this thing did not budge it was really stuck. My final and successful trick was to cut the thing off with an angle grinder! I accidentally cut the splines a little bit, hopefully this doesn't cause me problems in the future.
Ain't that the truth! Never goes this easy. Getting the right side cv axle off I went through this nightmare. A 10 lb slide hammer and chain, and hours of ripping it out until the whole diff seal and stub shift tore out, and had to replace those after. Nightmare!
Same for me. I think I may have to split the tube like you did!
3:40 the dog 😂😂
😂😂
Yup, definitely gonna invest in those Milwaukee's. Tired of draggin the hose everywhere.
Nice video guys. Confident I can do it with a friend after watching this.
Yeah hope you had fun doing it like this.
Lucky bugger I got to solo this in the snow tomorrow
You didn't clean the intermediate shaft or ad any grease, I just had to grind a CV off the shaft because it was rusted om
Slip a pry bar between the axle and transmission, quick pop to release…
That dog in the background at 3:42 is going to town 🤣🤣
I spit my coffee out lmao
Nice video. Hoping that's the grinding sound I heard fron the left front on the way home today.
How close does the inner CV joint come to the dust seal at the center? I’ve done everything to push mine in and it’s still a half inch from seating and it has a little play.
Did your new axle come with a c clip ? Most new ones don’t have that retaining clip
IRONWOLF _OMEGA they should come with it..I’ve never had one without it unless it’s a really crappy aftermarket part
IRONWOLF _OMEGA I can’t get this over the gd c clip! Not going on anything like yours did
@@rahrah8076 ON THE DODGES MOST TIMES THEY DONT COME WITH THEM, EVEN THE mOPAR ONES
@@rahrah8076 the c-clips are part of the inner shaft, not the CV shaft like your thinking
Hell yeah! Gotta do this later today. Def gunna be a bitch though. I appreciate y'all! 👍💯
Can a torn boot lead to transmission problems?
Had grease leaking out for months.
So for all the dodge people and 4x4, I had different rims and tires and after like 6 months it’s making like a warping sound when I drive you can tell it’s something rotating but also feel vibration in the steering wheel and the pedals if my foot is against it
Did you retorque your lugs???
Was there a keeper on the shaft coming out of the front diff?
Oh yeah I get to do this very soon hopefully it goes well thsnk you for the video
I just tried to do mine and they gave me the wrong booy size...im so beat. So much for the split boot idea.
Did you replace seal and clamp at the axle?
I just surfed for something as to base on my (sound issue). I took my wheel off, turned the studs which turns the shalf you just pulled out. [I just started hearing a clunk-clunk sound) When turning it slowly, like a skip drop skip sound.
Why, did you replace this item friend, J-Bob's Garage?
I'm more than greatful for your insight, I'm not a mechanic, but have through my younger years a gresse monkey as a kid.
The link above is for the purchasing of the item?
Why, Bob rocks. I'm now Subscribed to allvidoes..
What are these units for?
Sorry for all the questions brother.
My truck is a 2017 Dodge Ram 1500
Karl
Is that a TrakMotive HD Extreme?
Same thing on a 2017??
I am trying to replace the hub on my 2010 1500 having trouble removing the 3 bolts connection hub to control arm do i have to follow all these steps just back the cv joint away from hub?
They can be bastards but keep at it . Liquid wrench , breaker bar, impact and a whole bunch of swearing will get er done
I have an 03. I didn't need to take control arm or anything off.
7 easy steps..... " That was a bitch! ". Lol.
Great vid, helped!
I have a 2013 ram. Someone said i had to take the Diff apart to change the right cv shaft because of a pin or something in there 🤷🏼♀️❓
Do you have a part number for that all the ones I’ve found d are way to short
I have an print that came in the package with mine…not sure where it goes any help?
Can you please share the sizes of sockets you used? Just want to make sure I have everything before I start. Thank you!
35mm 22mm 21mm 10mm
Yeah what he said but for the axle hub but it's a inch and 7/16, you'll want a 12 mm 10mm aswell
2010 is 36 mm
I have a 2013 express. The inner boot pulled apart and the inner end is still stuck on. Nothing holds the inner end together, except the boot.
Perfect your job brother you are professional
About how long did it take y'all to do?
About 45 minutes or so
How much was the new part?
Josh Perry depends oem is around $400 and aftermarket $150 and up each
@@rahrah8076 Boy did you get ripped off. I can get them at any auto parts store for a $100 Through dodge on ebay for 175
@@chevybossman1 no way you will buy OEM for that price...EBAY is not through Dodge. They retail for $133.99 at parts stores for decent ones with a lifetime
warranty.
Thank you chubs!
you can also cut 1/2" off of the threaded end for easier installation,without dropping bottom ball joint. It's plenty long enough.
there's so many things I wish Ide known before buying a 2015 4th gen like getting air bags , without leaf springs God damn grandma's old 89 station wagon can handle more weight in the back . I went to get a yard of packing sand one bucket full with the front end loader and she drops I said is that it the gut says there's 2 more bucket full left but I h8ghly recommend not putting any more in lol. one more I said she'll handle it well holy f%$& I had to limp home . after that I had to grab 33 bundles of shingles not thinking 70lbs each it won't be bad well 110 km with only just over 2000 lbs it's the most unstable rear end in ant truck I've owned . the quality of the rise over capability of max load isn't justified . air bags should be mandatory for. a 4x4 if there's no leaf springs . Toyota will be my next truck screw dodge thetbmade too many wrong decisions on this one
@@andrewdenine1685 it's a half ton. If you needed a truck to do 1 ton stuff then you should've bought a 3500.
Threaded end of what?
can you post a list of socket sizes please
Just did mine today, EVERYTHING is 21 and 22mm, 24mm for lower if you plan on removing that. 36mm for axle nut :)
Whatever gets R done. Good team work, informative. Ty
Made this way harder than it needed to be. Brakes didnt need to come off. Neither did the ball joint or tie rods.
could you link me to a video please?
Video please
@@533lpunit you don't need a damn video. It's common knowledge.
Macayla Oliver you’re the one who is here looking for instructions as well haha
@@533lpunit an that is how? Lmfao! I stumbled over this video. But thanks for trying.
Did you have to get it aligned after?
No
Highly Recommended
Don’t need to, you’re not messing with the inside control arm so reinstalling the hub will keep everything in the same position it started in.
Got any connections for the intermediate shaft with seals and bearings for the passenger side front differential that fits 2015 ran 1500 . I dont want to replace the whole front differential assembly which a used one is 1800 bucks just shaft and bearings and seals if not is there some other parts i can rig something up . Dodge really stuck it to us 4th gen ram owners by only supplying essiential services vehicles. Should be againste the law to sell a vehicle and not sell certain parts to the public. A quick fix would save so many people thousands and would put s stop to the vibration at low speeds in the front end and save cv axles and every other front end part it takes down with time not to mention that gas peoole would save.
Thank you for the video I'm gonna do my brakes as well get it all in one shot!!
Thanks guys appreciate the video
Got a hawk Tuah on it
Wow! So many things done wrong in this video. Right down to the sockets used in the impact. NEVER use standard sockets on an impact. They’ll shatter and Fucking your day up.
im having this problem i cant get the cv off the diff
Derek B what side?
@@baps1137 driver i finally got it off after useing torch warm up and drilled and added almost half can of penetrating oil and welded up a metal piece and beat that daym axel off was a battle
Great video but I also can’t get the cv off the passenger side Differential. Hammered on it for a long time. Any suggestions?
@@aldericayers9317 use some penetrating oil. spray some in the every 20 mins and let sit overnight.
Derek B okay thanks for tip. I even rigged up a bearing puller to push on the stub axle and while pulling on the CV axel. Seems like the keeper won’t release
How do you know it's bad, clicking??
The boot usually splits and slings all of the grease out on the control arm and inside of the wheel well. If you don't notice that, you'll notice the CV joint is bad after it's been run dry.
@@savagele Mine just split the boot and slung grease all over the wheel well yesterday evening... right about the time you wrote your comment. :(
My inner joints housing just flops up down and and all over pretty sure this isn't normal
Good video. Thanks for sharing!
The ole goodentight method huh?
can ya just change the boot?
lol change axle because of a broken outside(towards the tire) boot....
What a pain in kozongas!
Thank you
Maybe its different on ur truck? But putting in the nut side of axle in first usaully gets it…. Then the differential side last.
But whatever… you guys got the job done.
Weird watching dodge ram video but advertising was Toyota haha
Anyone who can help I have 2017 and at super slow speeds I hear a like very faint pop/click from left wheel side I’ve read wheel hub but could it be a bad cv joint none of the boots are ripped or look bad
Wheel bearing likely. Jack it up and pull on the inside of the tire outward, 12 +6 and 3+9 positions. If any moving t or popping, change wheel bearing hub kit. Do both sides as they should be done in pairs.
@@joelsmithers6887 3 + 9 is to check tie rods, 12 + 6 is for wheel bearing play.
That's fucked, I've replaced my passenger side twice now before touching my driver side, has your driver side gone yet or just passenger?
I've replaced passenger twice , that's the side with the actuator, maybe that has something to do with it? or just dumb luck for both of us I guess
@@mattjo0078 my passenger side just went that's why I'm here haha
My passenger side axle just went to. 2015 ram 1500. Second time this happened in less than 2 years.
Wow, are y'all mudding or driving faster in 4wd that is recommended? I have always owned a ram 1500 since 1995, and have NEVER had an axle issue.
Just wondering what's up with that? Luck of the draw or?
I'm at a loss on why it keeps going out.. I rarely use the 4wd system. Only used it maybe a handful of times this winter and never at highway speeds.
Jesus christ hold the camera still. Youre waving that around like a confederate flag in 1884.
Monkey Wreach Really ...
Amateurs