These dudes really do kick ass. Shop quoted me 750 to do my passenger side and said it would take 6 hours. Bought the parts and the tools I needed for half that and had it done in an hour in my parking lot. These guys really are a money and life saver.
FYI: While we were changing our 2016 RAM 1500 half shaft my son pointed out that there's a channel running up the knuckle's top ball joint arm. That channel is there so that we don't need to remove the bottom ball joint to pull the knuckle off entirely. We need only remove the top ball joint and the tie rod end. A little pry pressure on the half shaft to pop it out of the knuckle with the knuckle turned fully outwards and we're able to pry the half shaft up the channel with very little force. Out it came. Reverse is true for putting the new one in. A pickle fork with the right width tines is great for popping the tulip off the intermediate shaft with a couple of gentle mallet hits.
Very great video. Torque specs, socket sizes, specific tools to use. Most vehicles that need this repair aren't as new and you might need a C-clamp to retract the caliper piston. Having said that, it is a very instructional video.
Dealership in Canada quoted me $1500 for both front CVs. Apparently not even with Mopar Axles. Im highly leaning towards doing it myself. Thank you for one of the better shot and walked through videos I've now seen.
Thank you so much! Clear, concise directions. Only problem was I was working on a 12 year old truck, with original equipment, and you clearly had recently installed aftermarket parts to work with. So, I had to watch other videos as well on how to get some of that stuff apart, but I still probably went through this video 15 times during my install. And we had nearly a foot of snow last night, so it’s great to have 4WD again!
Wanted to thank you so much for this video. followed your steps to a T and did my very first CV axle job in less than an hour all thanks to your attention to detail in this video. Thanks so much.
I have to replace my passenger side cv axel on a 16 ram1500 and didn't kno you could do this without removing my strut. That's awesome, that'll save some time. Great video.
Thank you for teaching this old man and on this 30th of August 2024, I just discovered my driver side axle boot was just starting to leak and slinging the axle grease. I must have driven nearly 700 miles when the boot began to sheet the bed and left a bit of 💩 around it.
just got thru with the passenger side on my 15 gonna do the drivers side tomorrow ,,when i got the old axle off there was no lock ring ! Glad i ordered some before hand ,put the new locking ring on the stub shaft ,axle would not go in and lock ,, after a little channellock work on the ring ..axle went right on and locked . no matter what i did axle would not go in ,,maybe the lock ring was torqued a little
Great video! Very precise on all the instructions. Sizes of bolts and tools needed. Thank you especially for the torque specs, it's piece of mind. Amazing job! This is gold. Saved me 600 bucks. 🙏
Just a friendly reminder to anyone doing this themselves. Some advice that you might want to be aware of before starting. This video covers the “perfect world scenario”. Typically on Rams down south where corrosion isn’t an issue, or a vehicle that doesn’t have 200k mileage. Ya better have a good source of heat. A heat gun won’t do in all cases. Also, a cutting device that can cut the passenger side shaft from the front axle. Because in a lot of cases, when doing this job it’s absolutely absurd to not do the front axle housing end shafts. Or as he calls it in this video, “stub shaft”. It’s relatively easy to do and not expensive. Plus the fact that if your front axles are bad, so are the splines on the front axle housing. Typically, on the passenger side you will need to unplug your front drive fork actuator, undue the front drive axle housing (4 bolts on the housing, 4 bolts on the housing end that bolts up to the front passenger side motor mount), and pull it out as a single unit. Like mentioned above, if there’s a lot of corrosion or miles, you’re possibly going to cut the old axle from the passenger housing. If doing that you’re definitely going to at least get that stub shaft. The bottom line is I have done this job numerous times. It can take a couple hours, or….. some frozen or extremely bad ball joints, axle stubs, or bad wheel bearings will turn this job into an all day affair. You’ve been warned lol…
Some people don’t realize how easy it is to fix a vehicle now a days , did my waterpump and all cooling system spent around $500 and now I get a fresh new cooling system
Nice clear video...however small details like being sure to install a NEW axle nut not the old one would be pretty important information to tell people watching the video.
This was very informative! Thank you!❤ Can you please tell me approximately how long it took you to do this job and is it necessary to change both cv arms?
Thanks for this video very helpful i was wondering what is the name of torque rench you are using to make sure the bolts are to the right degree of pressure.
Hey thanks for this …How come when I go to tighten tie rod ball joints and other things attached to spindle I need a large lug nut sized open ended wrench as there is a 10mm bolt on the tip that spins not allowing me to tighten with a socket so I need 2 wrenches and I can’t get it tight enough ?
Thank you for this video but if you're giving torque values they better be correct right? The balljoint stud nut requires an additional 180 degrees turn after 40 ftlbs, ends up 70-80 ftlbs.
I've replaced my front passenger CV Axle on my 2016 Ram two times now, and the new one which I installed two months ago is not making a noise. When I looked at it the other day I noticed that it's still connected, boot is in new condition, but it does feel too loose and wobbly. Originally, the reason I had to replace it was because I had a wheel bearing failure due to some larger tires I think on the truck (which came with it). My wheel was at probably a 25 degree angle to the truck when that happened. Do you think maybe when that original incident happened, it ruined the differential mounts or stretched the control arms? Trying to figure out why the new cv axles keep failing. Thanks!
So I have to replace my axle. And I have already added a 3” lift. Is there an upgraded cv axle I should use with the lift. I did upgrade the UCA for the offense in the angle. Any suggestions, thanks
Not sure if you’ll see this or not, but I’m replacing my cv joint and in the portion of the video where you put the stub shaft back in, you mention a seal. What would that seal be called? Tried searching, but keep getting multiple options. Any help would be great.
nice video. question. went from rusty dirty parts to new not shown how to install parts. magic I guess. at 13:27 dirty then it went to really clean lol
Do you have to remove tie rode to get the cv shaft OUT???? I'm deal with a dealership and they told me they don't have to remove the tie rod to get the cv shaft out!!! I'm just curious
That disk on the stub shaft is no longer pressed onto the shaft on my 2014 ram, looks like I may be replacing that whole assembly. This video should make that a lot easier
+The green Kilt Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Great video, however the axles themselves are of very poor quality. Replaced mine last summer and now the driver's side is completely torn (flinging grease everywhere) and the passenger side is on its way out (360 crack on the 3rd bellow).
6:50 you missed the best option of all...just disconnect the axle from the intermediate shaft and remove the cv assembly from the bottom...removing the entire knuckle is a waste of time
These dudes really do kick ass. Shop quoted me 750 to do my passenger side and said it would take 6 hours. Bought the parts and the tools I needed for half that and had it done in an hour in my parking lot.
These guys really are a money and life saver.
FYI: While we were changing our 2016 RAM 1500 half shaft my son pointed out that there's a channel running up the knuckle's top ball joint arm.
That channel is there so that we don't need to remove the bottom ball joint to pull the knuckle off entirely. We need only remove the top ball joint and the tie rod end.
A little pry pressure on the half shaft to pop it out of the knuckle with the knuckle turned fully outwards and we're able to pry the half shaft up the channel with very little force.
Out it came. Reverse is true for putting the new one in.
A pickle fork with the right width tines is great for popping the tulip off the intermediate shaft with a couple of gentle mallet hits.
Instructions were so clear it only took me 1 hour to remove and put everything back
Very great video. Torque specs, socket sizes, specific tools to use. Most vehicles that need this repair aren't as new and you might need a C-clamp to retract the caliper piston. Having said that, it is a very instructional video.
Dealership in Canada quoted me $1500 for both front CVs. Apparently not even with Mopar Axles. Im highly leaning towards doing it myself. Thank you for one of the better shot and walked through videos I've now seen.
Dude kick ass. Two hours per side. Thank you. It helps to know what to expect.
“Careful as the rotor is now floating”
Crying from rusty West Michigan 🥲
Thank you so much! Clear, concise directions. Only problem was I was working on a 12 year old truck, with original equipment, and you clearly had recently installed aftermarket parts to work with. So, I had to watch other videos as well on how to get some of that stuff apart, but I still probably went through this video 15 times during my install. And we had nearly a foot of snow last night, so it’s great to have 4WD again!
Wanted to thank you so much for this video. followed your steps to a T and did my very first CV axle job in less than an hour all thanks to your attention to detail in this video. Thanks so much.
You just saved me 800 bucks man i love you
I have to replace my passenger side cv axel on a 16 ram1500 and didn't kno you could do this without removing my strut. That's awesome, that'll save some time. Great video.
Thank you for teaching this old man and on this 30th of August 2024, I just discovered my driver side axle boot was just starting to leak and slinging the axle grease. I must have driven nearly 700 miles when the boot began to sheet the bed and left a bit of 💩 around it.
Perfect detail bro love it 💯 saved me lots of money I replaced entire front end including sway bar
just got thru with the passenger side on my 15 gonna do the drivers side tomorrow ,,when i got the old axle off there was no lock ring ! Glad i ordered some before hand ,put the new locking ring on the stub shaft ,axle would not go in and lock ,, after a little channellock work on the ring ..axle went right on and locked . no matter what i did axle would not go in ,,maybe the lock ring was torqued a little
Thanks. Best vid I've seen on this, great photography!
Lake Havasu 🌞 Az
Great video! Very precise on all the instructions. Sizes of bolts and tools needed. Thank you especially for the torque specs, it's piece of mind. Amazing job! This is gold. Saved me 600 bucks. 🙏
Buddy, great video! And with torque specs. Man, if only all instructional videos were this concise!
This is the best instructional video I've ever watched. Thanks.
Just a friendly reminder to anyone doing this themselves. Some advice that you might want to be aware of before starting. This video covers the “perfect world scenario”. Typically on Rams down south where corrosion isn’t an issue, or a vehicle that doesn’t have 200k mileage. Ya better have a good source of heat. A heat gun won’t do in all cases. Also, a cutting device that can cut the passenger side shaft from the front axle. Because in a lot of cases, when doing this job it’s absolutely absurd to not do the front axle housing end shafts. Or as he calls it in this video, “stub shaft”. It’s relatively easy to do and not expensive. Plus the fact that if your front axles are bad, so are the splines on the front axle housing. Typically, on the passenger side you will need to unplug your front drive fork actuator, undue the front drive axle housing (4 bolts on the housing, 4 bolts on the housing end that bolts up to the front passenger side motor mount), and pull it out as a single unit. Like mentioned above, if there’s a lot of corrosion or miles, you’re possibly going to cut the old axle from the passenger housing. If doing that you’re definitely going to at least get that stub shaft. The bottom line is I have done this job numerous times. It can take a couple hours, or….. some frozen or extremely bad ball joints, axle stubs, or bad wheel bearings will turn this job into an all day affair. You’ve been warned lol…
Some people don’t realize how easy it is to fix a vehicle now a days , did my waterpump and all cooling system spent around $500 and now I get a fresh new cooling system
Thank you for the video. Clear instructions and unobstructed view made this job super simple and fast. Was exactly what I needed!
+katw1084 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You forgot to mention the 27mm socket in your list of tools needed for the job (lower ball joint nut)
El mejor video eres lo máximo no puedo encontrar algo mejor Gracias 🙏
Nice clear video...however small details like being sure to install a NEW axle nut not the old one would be pretty important information to tell people watching the video.
This was very informative! Thank you!❤ Can you please tell me approximately how long it took you to do this job and is it necessary to change both cv arms?
Thanks for this video very helpful i was wondering what is the name of torque rench you are using to make sure the bolts are to the right degree of pressure.
Thank you for a very instructional video. Would the passenger side be the same?
Now I know what I'm in for. Thank You Sir!
If you are changing the hub bearing, do you still need to remove lower ball joint???
Hey thanks for this …How come when I go to tighten tie rod ball joints and other things attached to spindle I need a large lug nut sized open ended wrench as there is a 10mm bolt on the tip that spins not allowing me to tighten with a socket so I need 2 wrenches and I can’t get it tight enough ?
Thank you for this video but if you're giving torque values they better be correct right? The balljoint stud nut requires an additional 180 degrees turn after 40 ftlbs, ends up 70-80 ftlbs.
I can't get the bottom ball joint to pop so I can take the control Arm off. Any suggestions??
Are the axles the same on both sides? I think both of mine need to be done.
Enjoy watching your videos! Explains in details and is very helpful.
Excelente trabajo y excelente explicación, muy profesional gracias por compartir
Thanks, very thorough
I live on the west coast, everything is rusty, there's no way I can so easily disassemble that knuckle
Thanks for giving torque specs too
Thanks, took me 20min, super easy
I've replaced my front passenger CV Axle on my 2016 Ram two times now, and the new one which I installed two months ago is not making a noise. When I looked at it the other day I noticed that it's still connected, boot is in new condition, but it does feel too loose and wobbly. Originally, the reason I had to replace it was because I had a wheel bearing failure due to some larger tires I think on the truck (which came with it). My wheel was at probably a 25 degree angle to the truck when that happened. Do you think maybe when that original incident happened, it ruined the differential mounts or stretched the control arms? Trying to figure out why the new cv axles keep failing. Thanks!
Thank you for the clear and concise instructions! Would it be recommended to get the truck aligned after this repair?
I personally recommend it. Some guys do some don't.
Great tutorial 👍
Hello, does the intermediate shaft or knuckle, on the right side, also come off?
very informative thanks
So I have to replace my axle. And I have already added a 3” lift. Is there an upgraded cv axle I should use with the lift. I did upgrade the UCA for the offense in the angle. Any suggestions, thanks
You put the wheels on why didn't you start the top lug first then the two bottoms? Am I missing something have I been doing it wrong?
Does this work for the passenger side cv axle too, or is that slightly different
Not sure if you’ll see this or not, but I’m replacing my cv joint and in the portion of the video where you put the stub shaft back in, you mention a seal. What would that seal be called? Tried searching, but keep getting multiple options. Any help would be great.
nice video. question. went from rusty dirty parts to new not shown how to install parts. magic I guess. at 13:27 dirty then it went to really clean lol
Do you have to remove tie rode to get the cv shaft OUT???? I'm deal with a dealership and they told me they don't have to remove the tie rod to get the cv shaft out!!! I'm just curious
My rotor wouldn’t come off, possibly because there was no anti-seize spray behind it?
Thank you!
Good video but anyone else notice they didn’t mention they replaced upper ball joint and new knuckle 😂
Should I replace the passenger side axle now that the driver side is replaced .. even though the passenger side axle is in good shape?
+@Hoppy1571 It is not necessary to replace both CV Axles.
Did that intermediate stub shaft need a snap ring on the cv axle side?
Mine didn't seem to have one. 2011 ram.
Thanks
Excellent
Do you need a wheel alignment after this?
Yeah it sure looks alot easier when it's that clean haha
How strong are these compared to oem?
That disk on the stub shaft is no longer pressed onto the shaft on my 2014 ram, looks like I may be replacing that whole assembly. This video should make that a lot easier
+The green Kilt Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How remove brake rotor that’s seized on?
Great video, however the axles themselves are of very poor quality. Replaced mine last summer and now the driver's side is completely torn (flinging grease everywhere) and the passenger side is on its way out (360 crack on the 3rd bellow).
My just will not go in from the cv joint to the stub shaft ! 😢
Have you or anyone ran into having to replace the front diff as well due to the axle failing? I'm being told this and I find it hard to believe.
You replaced the inner stub shaft it is obviously a new one...What was the reason for that????
Why did you replace the steering knuckle
And a brand new hub, don't know if it's all one piece. Kind of disingenuous to change something like that mid video
6:50 you missed the best option of all...just disconnect the axle from the intermediate shaft and remove the cv assembly from the bottom...removing the entire knuckle is a waste of time
did anyone else notice the upper control arm changed from when he disassembled......looks like a whole different truck for the reassebly.
Wish it was that easy to remove the stub shaft, my customers was rusted on smh broke that shield
Your rotor is on the wrong side. They are directional on slotted rotors.
Amazing
27mm is not the correct size for the lower ball joint socket.
Looks like a new bearing ,seems to be a common issue with Ram
Awesome got to do the drivers side...again...did I mention how much I hate this Ram
Awesome video but the rotors on backwards just fyi
So if I torqued the axle nut to all the rattle gun could give and then some (400nm) lol. Chances are the axle nuts never coming off is it 😂 oh crap.
Is it just me or did the knuckle just become brand new lol at around 13mins in