Eric, back in the day (early 70's) we used to remove the U-Joints in a vice with the sockets as you did, which works fine, and no damage to the drive shaft. We didn't have the tool back then. I've watched about 8 other videos on how to replace &-Joints and all of them took two sockets and beat the heck out of them with a BFH, and that sent chills down my spine watching this, I mean really banging very hard with the hammer. Great to see a real caring mechanic doing things the correct way.
If you have some experience, that is actually the fastest method. I've installed hundreds of u-joints with a hammer and workbench, but unfortunately my boss wouldn't approve of the beer
Forgot how relatively simple this was, but most importantly all the little tidbits and reminders are what I appreciate the most. Top shelf instruction there brother! Thanks! Stay dirty!
replaced my first ever uni joints today! for the ordinary dude who needs a vice and doesn't have one, buy a vice. for the ordinary dude without a vice but has uni join cups painted and rusted in - buy the tool and use an impact. with the paint and rust I'd say I spent about 97% of the time removing the old rusted cups and sanding the drive shaft and flanges clean, filing out burrs etc. installation was so easy by comparison, probably 10 mins a piece (I had 3 unis in a 2 piece shaft to give one an idea. I needed a vice, and this was the perfect excuse to buy one. if I had my time again I'd probably buy both. But I did it the hard way and I learned a great deal. thanks Eric! I watched a few vids and this was by far the best
Had my auto shop teacher show me a method to loosen those outside clips up real fast. Take that socket the fits just inside the hole of the yoke and place it right up against the clip. Now rap it with a hammer a couple of times. Breaks those clips loose every time. Another method you can use to push the cups out is take the sockets and use a large C-clamp to press them. Just in case you can't afford to buy the tool and don't have a vice. I've also used the hammer method as well. Sometimes you just do what you have to to get it done.
Have done 1350 series joints several times. Used to use a 6 inch bench vise and did it with a USA made 6 inch c clamp once. Both removal and installation. Bent that c clamp removing. No faith in the Chinese c clamps around now. 2 days ago I was struggling with a vise and 3 foot pipe extension on the handle. Didn't want to move. For the first time I tried the hammer method. So much easier! 2 lb hammer and 24 oz ball peen was all I used. 5 inch diameter carbon fiber covered aluminum driveshaft on a 1992 GMC C2500. C-clamp to install would probably work well. I repeat, had no trouble at all removing these u-joints with a hammer. Do your best to keep things squared up. Don't use heat on aluminum, they sometimes warp. No need for penetrating oil. Study a few videos, read some posts and grab your hammer! Otherwise take the driveshaft assembly in to a shop that does this work everyday.
Thank you. I broke a yoke on a rototiller. Replacing the yoke was fairly easy, but I had no idea how to install the U joint. Your farm style method (no special tool) worked great. Again, thank you.
How timely. I just ordered a set of u-joints from RockAuto for my 2000 Expedition. I have some non-specific vibration that I can't track down. When driving slowly next to a reflective surface I heard a rotational creaking coming from under the car. It's videos like yours that give DIYers the confidence to be DIYers. Thanks Eric.
I really appreciate the video walk through, I consider myself "Mechanically inclined" but I've always been intimidated by U-Joints and this video gave me the confidence to do it myself this evening. Thanks!
I have to thank you for this video Ericthecarguy. I've been wrenching professionally 13--14 years, I'm master certified but U-joints are the one task that always give me trouble. Watched this a few days ago and used some of the tips and tricks today on a 2 piece drive shaft on a Tacoma.
I just called a local auto parts store to see if they offer services like pressing u-joints. But I forgot that auto parts stores are worthless these days and only want to sell you parts that don't fit. So then I remembered to check ETCG and was pleased to see the use of a bench vise, because I have one. You couldn't imagine my disappointment when I discovered my vise was about 1/2 inch too short fully open.
I would also add that if you are doing this and not swapping the yoke, mark the relationship of the shaft and the yoke so that you put it back on in the same location and don't risk getting them out of phase/balance. Also if you ARE swapping yokes for some reason, make sure they will work. Bearing caps/cups come in many different sizes with very low (.001") tolerances. Make sure the yoke you are using is the appropriate size.
sobeforlife when you are swapping the rear u joints are the front and back of the rear different or do you get 2 of the same u joints? And if you already took everything apart and didn't mark where it was at how do you know where it goes?
Lots of great advice in this video, such as making sure the clips are seated properly, tapping on the joint at the end, and direction of zerk fitting. Eric has great little tips that would be easy to skip over but are still important.
Those are great tips that will come in handy for many people, since U joint replacement is such a common thing. You had better luck with the snap rings than I did---on the rusty northern cars I worked on, I had to chisel mine out.
Your video helped me a lot, although I had one complication... my U-joints were so corroded that I had to use A LOT of pressure on the ball/U-joint removal tool - so much that it actually started to bend the yoke before it popped free. Re-installation meant using way more pressure than I probably should have to get the snap rings to seat. Rust belt truck that sat in the grass for 2 years, so it was probably worse than most. Now we'll find out how many miles the new joints last since I had to squeeze the tar out of them...
Yeah I did it with a hammer at a guardrail on the interstate. I knew it was bad, bought a few buy just was surprised to see my drive shaft fall off. So replaced it right there!! Good video!!
Thanks for this video. You're probably the only video that shows a sealed u joint install. Everyone else shows how to do it with a zerk fitting. My concern was that I wasn't sure if you needed to add any grease on the sealed u joints. Ordered the parts, will be doing this job on Saturday along with replacing the rear transfer case seal.
I did mine today with the 20 ton Harbor Freight press I bought last month to do the rear wheel bearings on my 03 Mountaineer. One thing I haven't seen covered in any videos is the old snap rings breaking. Lots of fun when that happens. Six out of 8 of mine broke like that. Easiest solution I found was to get one side out entirely, then just press from the other side. Once the cup is out, it's much easier to dig out the broken ring. I had expected it to be a frustrating balancing act trying to use the press and keep the sockets lined up with the yoke, but it really wasn't that bad. The first one went that way because I was trying to keep a 30mm socket aligned on the bottom, and a 17mm socket on the top. The last three I did by just pressing the u joint from one side until it bottomed out, then I flipped it over and put the 17mm socket in the yoke hole and the 30mm socket on top so I could press the cup all the way through. Wasn't that bad at all, and my horrible clicking and grinding noises are gone. On top of that, it no longer feels like the brakes are on when I let off the gas. One was completely seized in one direction. I'm guessing I should have done this a long time ago.
Wow that looked so easy. My 2001 F150 had the axle side u joint snap at about 210k miles. It felt like the whole rear end fell out. I checked it, figured I could drive home. About a mile later the driveshaft shot out. So I put it in the bed, turned on the 4x4 which just made it front wheel drive at that point, and drove home. When the u joint initially broke it twisted the shackle. So I broke a clamp trying to press it. I hammered for an hour. Eventually I got a diablo demon steel cutting reciprocating blade and spent two hours and two blades cutting out the u joint. I wish I could have pressed it out like you. Geez.
Eric, I've enjoyed your vids for a long while now. Full disclosure: I'm not a technician nor will I ever DIYer. I'm just a fan watching a "BOY WITH TOYS". I had a random thought watching this one today: You must own stock in and/or have cases and cases of "penetrating oil" somewhere hiding in the shop. It seems that use it "by the gallon"! Looking forward to Friday's installment. . .Keep on Keeping on!
Push the cross piece back and forth after each yoke install to push the cups apart and out against the clips. Gives the cross that little bit of clearance it was designed with. Once installed, grease them ON THE BENCH. you can use the vise to put pressure on the cross and push it against the cups....this allows you to get 100% new grease flowing out of EACH of the 4 cups all around each one's lip seal. Don't stop until you have replaced all the grease that came in it. If a cup doesn't flow grease, put pressure on two of the other three as much as possible and 'hammer' your grease gun with palm of hand or helper to 'pulse' grease into that last stubborn cup. I've wasted lots of grease trying to get new grease into every cup, but never replaced a joint more than once. When it's on the car, you can do the same thing; hang on the drive shaft with lots of your body weight to bury the cross into two of the cups and 'aggressively' grease the joint...keep after it until you see new clean grease come out of every cup. The last resort to clean a dirty, not flowing cup: carefully remove the rubber seal (slide onto cross without tearing it). move cross away as much as possible from the bad cup and grease. Then, spin shaft around so you can hit it with rubber mallet and force cross rapidly into bad cup....hammering action will force the dirty clogging grease out.
A vice is not a press, I've seen vice Jaws explode from that type of use. Also, if the cup is stuck, you can bend the ear and screw up your driveshaft. You elude to that when you say you're afraid of screwing it up.
Driveshaft or axle. Musta been a late night. Here I thought it was going to be ball joint press vs hydraulic press when I clicked on this. Oh well, good tip on grease fitting alignment towards driveshaft. Thanks Eric.
Hey Eric, maybe it's already been said somewhere along here, but I had a minor cringe moment when you were holding the aluminium driveshaft in the vice. I would kindly suggest using a couple of lengths of aluminium bracket cut to the length of the vice jaws and placed (or fixed) into the vice to make a set of "soft jaws" for the vice when working on softer metals. No doubt you are aware of the practice, and you made a point of telling us not to clamp down hard on an aluminium driveshaft, but I think it may be worth passing along such a simple technique. It has helped me to prevent marking up some old, expensive and hard to replace soft metal bits on some of my old motorcycles. Thanks for another great video, and stay dirty!
I did the u-joints recently in my 1999 S10 Blazer ZR2, there was surprisingly an original u-joint that I had to melt the plastic retainer out of. Pretty interesting, but also easy to remove. Just heat and wait for it to ooze out, and it comes out pretty fast! We used the sockets and vice method.
I have alway put some extra high pressure grease into each cap when I remove them from the trunnion,that way if you accidently drop a cap or bang it around while installing it the grease will keep the needle bearings in place. just don't install the zerk fitting until the joint is fully assembled in the drive shaft. I have replaced u joints in the middle of nowhere using nothing but a hammer,flat screwdriver, socket and a solid surface to support the drive shaft as you tap the joint out, but that is a last resort.
I was shaking my head when you busted out that powertool, thinking: "Bet he's going to say don't use powertools." And then you damaged your part :-) Stay dirty and keep up the good work.
Good tip on hitting the ears to settle the caps. I wish I knew that when I did my joints... that was a struggle. Ended up killing a needle and having to buy another $20 joint (I wasn't using the cheap kind).
Great show, all of them. Keep it up.More power and thank you for sharing. That level of knowledge for it's show. applied not only for a car daily common issues .
I was watching closely how you removed the old and installed the new U-Joints and will put that knowledge to use if I have to replace on on my vehicles.
As always best how-to vid. I have the ball/u joint clamp, but haven't done joints in awhile. Nice visual refresher. I WAS going to use my impact wrench on the clamp...NOT NOW! Haha, thanks for that visual aid too!
Good techniques. However, since you have a hydraulic press, why didn't you use it instead of the vise. Additionally, most vise manufacturers advise against opening a vise to the extent you did because it can break the vise (it is a casting not a forging (just saying, even though I do it myself)).
Eric I have used a air hammer and a Yard store in wichita ks or aircraft spruce in tulsa ok. I also use the tool to remove tie rod end tapers and ball joints much easier on me than 2 4 lb hammers.
Great tutorial. I've rebuilt a few driveshafts using a hybrid of these approaches, with a large normal C-clamp and sockets. It's fiddly getting the sockets to stay in place, but it's very doable. I'd add that in my experience not all zerk fittings are angled in one direction. Also some have circlips that you need a special pliers to remove/install.
Some U joints that are lubed for life do require extra lubrication. Moog super strength ones come to mind. Mine were like the one Eric installed but the moog FAQ menntioned non-serviceable ones requiring extra grease. They say that for both styles what comes in the joint is just for shipping (assembly lube if you will) and that the caps need packed with grease before one begins.
@@dericross341 Thank you for this reply. I do one every once in a while. I always wondered how a professional does them. Press or hammer. Now I know. Thanks again 👍
I've been told it's a good idea to put the zirk fitting so it is in compression. The fitting should be in the leading end of the driving yoke and trailing end of the driven yoke.
It's typically better/easier to add the grease to the U-Joint when the shaft is still on the bench. Once it is in the vehicle it can be a bit harder to get the grease gun on the fitting and it just saves time. We all know that saving time is the key to getting paid.
You used a hammer to unload shaft ears, nice. Whether by vise or ball joint press or other method...couple taps goes along way unloading pressure removing as well
if you have a cheap vice i would refrain from using the vice from being the only tool. did it with my old harbor freight vise. a great way to make it easier on yourself and the vise is set it up with the sockets get it good and snug with just your hand, no pipe, and give either the vice or the shaft a good few whacks with the hammer just until you feel the resistance let go, and repeat.
The on-the-trail method has you beat them out using a socket and BFH, though I do have a vice that fits into my trailer hitch that comes in handy for jobs like this.
Eric, back in the day (early 70's) we used to remove the U-Joints in a vice with the sockets as you did, which works fine, and no damage to the drive shaft. We didn't have the tool back then. I've watched about 8 other videos on how to replace &-Joints and all of them took two sockets and beat the heck out of them with a BFH, and that sent chills down my spine watching this, I mean really banging very hard with the hammer. Great to see a real caring mechanic doing things the correct way.
Method 3: beating the shit out of u-joints with shitty sockets, a sledge, and lots of beer.
If you have some experience, that is actually the fastest method. I've installed hundreds of u-joints with a hammer and workbench, but unfortunately my boss wouldn't approve of the beer
Brian X Method 4: log splitter
Brian X same and i cant get the last one in
Forgot how relatively simple this was, but most importantly all the little tidbits and reminders are what I appreciate the most. Top shelf instruction there brother! Thanks! Stay dirty!
replaced my first ever uni joints today! for the ordinary dude who needs a vice and doesn't have one, buy a vice. for the ordinary dude without a vice but has uni join cups painted and rusted in - buy the tool and use an impact. with the paint and rust I'd say I spent about 97% of the time removing the old rusted cups and sanding the drive shaft and flanges clean, filing out burrs etc. installation was so easy by comparison, probably 10 mins a piece (I had 3 unis in a 2 piece shaft to give one an idea.
I needed a vice, and this was the perfect excuse to buy one. if I had my time again I'd probably buy both. But I did it the hard way and I learned a great deal.
thanks Eric! I watched a few vids and this was by far the best
Had my auto shop teacher show me a method to loosen those outside clips up real fast. Take that socket the fits just inside the hole of the yoke and place it right up against the clip. Now rap it with a hammer a couple of times. Breaks those clips loose every time.
Another method you can use to push the cups out is take the sockets and use a large C-clamp to press them. Just in case you can't afford to buy the tool and don't have a vice.
I've also used the hammer method as well.
Sometimes you just do what you have to to get it done.
.
..
.
Have done 1350 series joints several times. Used to use a 6 inch bench vise and did it with a USA made 6 inch c clamp once. Both removal and installation. Bent that c clamp removing. No faith in the Chinese c clamps around now. 2 days ago I was struggling with a vise and 3 foot pipe extension on the handle. Didn't want to move. For the first time I tried the hammer method. So much easier! 2 lb hammer and 24 oz ball peen was all I used. 5 inch diameter carbon fiber covered aluminum driveshaft on a 1992 GMC C2500. C-clamp to install would probably work well. I repeat, had no trouble at all removing these u-joints with a hammer. Do your best to keep things squared up. Don't use heat on aluminum, they sometimes warp. No need for penetrating oil. Study a few videos, read some posts and grab your hammer! Otherwise take the driveshaft assembly in to a shop that does this work everyday.
Thank you. I broke a yoke on a rototiller. Replacing the yoke was fairly easy, but I had no idea how to install the U joint. Your farm style method (no special tool) worked great. Again, thank you.
How timely. I just ordered a set of u-joints from RockAuto for my 2000 Expedition. I have some non-specific vibration that I can't track down. When driving slowly next to a reflective surface I heard a rotational creaking coming from under the car. It's videos like yours that give DIYers the confidence to be DIYers. Thanks Eric.
I really appreciate the video walk through, I consider myself "Mechanically inclined" but I've always been intimidated by U-Joints and this video gave me the confidence to do it myself this evening. Thanks!
Had to do this three times on my 1996 ram 1500, this video is by far the best one in UA-cam!
I have to thank you for this video Ericthecarguy. I've been wrenching professionally 13--14 years, I'm master certified but U-joints are the one task that always give me trouble. Watched this a few days ago and used some of the tips and tricks today on a 2 piece drive shaft on a Tacoma.
brianthelion ..what brand/part number were the replacement U joints?
I just called a local auto parts store to see if they offer services like pressing u-joints. But I forgot that auto parts stores are worthless these days and only want to sell you parts that don't fit. So then I remembered to check ETCG and was pleased to see the use of a bench vise, because I have one. You couldn't imagine my disappointment when I discovered my vise was about 1/2 inch too short fully open.
Great video. Been years since i changed a UJ, under supervision. Your video brought it all home. Thanks from Mike in OZ.
I would also add that if you are doing this and not swapping the yoke, mark the relationship of the shaft and the yoke so that you put it back on in the same location and don't risk getting them out of phase/balance.
Also if you ARE swapping yokes for some reason, make sure they will work. Bearing caps/cups come in many different sizes with very low (.001") tolerances. Make sure the yoke you are using is the appropriate size.
sobeforlife when you are swapping the rear u joints are the front and back of the rear different or do you get 2 of the same u joints? And if you already took everything apart and didn't mark where it was at how do you know where it goes?
Yeah I was in the middle of traffic when I took mine out, so I could put it 4x4 to get out the way so Idk how mine was
Lots of great advice in this video, such as making sure the clips are seated properly, tapping on the joint at the end, and direction of zerk fitting. Eric has great little tips that would be easy to skip over but are still important.
I will probably never do this but good to know how. Thanks Eric.
Vjjjikk,l ...
Best U-joint video I’ve seen
Those are great tips that will come in handy for many people, since U joint replacement is such a common thing. You had better luck with the snap rings than I did---on the rusty northern cars I worked on, I had to chisel mine out.
Great video! It helped a lot to let me know what I'm in for in replacing the u-joints on my '95 van.
Excellent video! It’s also applicable to pto driveshafts on farm implements such as old snowblowers, which I’m working on right now.
Nice video. Glad to see some of the issues and how to deal with them. Thanks!
Your video helped me a lot, although I had one complication... my U-joints were so corroded that I had to use A LOT of pressure on the ball/U-joint removal tool - so much that it actually started to bend the yoke before it popped free. Re-installation meant using way more pressure than I probably should have to get the snap rings to seat. Rust belt truck that sat in the grass for 2 years, so it was probably worse than most. Now we'll find out how many miles the new joints last since I had to squeeze the tar out of them...
Yeah I did it with a hammer at a guardrail on the interstate. I knew it was bad, bought a few buy just was surprised to see my drive shaft fall off. So replaced it right there!! Good video!!
Exactly the info I was looking for. Excellent teacher. Thanks much!
Excellent. Thanks for taking the time to show both methods.
i wish the one i was working on right now was THIS rust free!!! indiana boy here and mine is rusty gold and stuck! lucky dog!
what's crazy is you guys respond to video as simple like this. They are u joints please.eric is simply straightforward showing novice attempts
Thanks Eric; this is much better than the hammer/socket method for when you ruin one on the trail.
Been a while since I've had to do this - this was a great refresher. Thanks!
Eric, I never thought of using a vise. Most people own a vise, so simple to use for u joints. Have a great day!
Great, informative, video. Thanks !
Thanks for this video. You're probably the only video that shows a sealed u joint install. Everyone else shows how to do it with a zerk fitting. My concern was that I wasn't sure if you needed to add any grease on the sealed u joints. Ordered the parts, will be doing this job on Saturday along with replacing the rear transfer case seal.
I did mine today with the 20 ton Harbor Freight press I bought last month to do the rear wheel bearings on my 03 Mountaineer. One thing I haven't seen covered in any videos is the old snap rings breaking. Lots of fun when that happens. Six out of 8 of mine broke like that. Easiest solution I found was to get one side out entirely, then just press from the other side. Once the cup is out, it's much easier to dig out the broken ring. I had expected it to be a frustrating balancing act trying to use the press and keep the sockets lined up with the yoke, but it really wasn't that bad. The first one went that way because I was trying to keep a 30mm socket aligned on the bottom, and a 17mm socket on the top. The last three I did by just pressing the u joint from one side until it bottomed out, then I flipped it over and put the 17mm socket in the yoke hole and the 30mm socket on top so I could press the cup all the way through. Wasn't that bad at all, and my horrible clicking and grinding noises are gone. On top of that, it no longer feels like the brakes are on when I let off the gas. One was completely seized in one direction. I'm guessing I should have done this a long time ago.
Wow that looked so easy. My 2001 F150 had the axle side u joint snap at about 210k miles. It felt like the whole rear end fell out. I checked it, figured I could drive home. About a mile later the driveshaft shot out. So I put it in the bed, turned on the 4x4 which just made it front wheel drive at that point, and drove home. When the u joint initially broke it twisted the shackle. So I broke a clamp trying to press it. I hammered for an hour. Eventually I got a diablo demon steel cutting reciprocating blade and spent two hours and two blades cutting out the u joint. I wish I could have pressed it out like you. Geez.
That was the best instructional on u joints I've seen, thanks
Eric, I've enjoyed your vids for a long while now. Full disclosure: I'm not a technician nor will I ever DIYer. I'm just a fan watching a "BOY WITH TOYS". I had a random thought watching this one today: You must own stock in and/or have cases and cases of "penetrating oil" somewhere hiding in the shop. It seems that use it "by the gallon"! Looking forward to Friday's installment. . .Keep on Keeping on!
So glad I found this video. I have the inside clips. was having a little trouble getting the new cap in far enough to get the snap ring on.
You have a good camera man! Excellent explanations too. Thank you.
Push the cross piece back and forth after each yoke install to push the cups apart and out against the clips. Gives the cross that little bit of clearance it was designed with. Once installed, grease them ON THE BENCH. you can use the vise to put pressure on the cross and push it against the cups....this allows you to get 100% new grease flowing out of EACH of the 4 cups all around each one's lip seal. Don't stop until you have replaced all the grease that came in it. If a cup doesn't flow grease, put pressure on two of the other three as much as possible and 'hammer' your grease gun with palm of hand or helper to 'pulse' grease into that last stubborn cup. I've wasted lots of grease trying to get new grease into every cup, but never replaced a joint more than once. When it's on the car, you can do the same thing; hang on the drive shaft with lots of your body weight to bury the cross into two of the cups and 'aggressively' grease the joint...keep after it until you see new clean grease come out of every cup. The last resort to clean a dirty, not flowing cup: carefully remove the rubber seal (slide onto cross without tearing it). move cross away as much as possible from the bad cup and grease. Then, spin shaft around so you can hit it with rubber mallet and force cross rapidly into bad cup....hammering action will force the dirty clogging grease out.
When I was a poor servant of Uncle Sam I used sockets and a hammer. You do what you have to do to get by.
Abunai One the poor servant part is true-I feel ya
The Vise method is really useful! Much better than using a hammer. Excellent video, well filmed and explained.
lol..."yay, I'm a u-joint yay!" Eric do voice overs on cartoons. great informative videos as always!
About the way it generally goes....nice demo and explanation of the different type and methods.
A vice is not a press, I've seen vice Jaws explode from that type of use. Also, if the cup is stuck, you can bend the ear and screw up your driveshaft. You elude to that when you say you're afraid of screwing it up.
Thanks for a great video! I need to probably replace my u-joints on my Tacoma.
videos don't get any better - well done
Just had the U-joints changed out on my van. Damn Eric you were a week late with this video. Oh well next time I will know how to do it myself. -John
Don't you just love Wilton vises? They're great tools. Nice video Eric, easy to follow steps with common tools.
Driveshaft or axle.
Musta been a late night.
Here I thought it was going to be ball joint press vs hydraulic press when I clicked on this.
Oh well, good tip on grease fitting alignment towards driveshaft.
Thanks Eric.
Hey Eric, maybe it's already been said somewhere along here, but I had a minor cringe moment when you were holding the aluminium driveshaft in the vice. I would kindly suggest using a couple of lengths of aluminium bracket cut to the length of the vice jaws and placed (or fixed) into the vice to make a set of "soft jaws" for the vice when working on softer metals. No doubt you are aware of the practice, and you made a point of telling us not to clamp down hard on an aluminium driveshaft, but I think it may be worth passing along such a simple technique. It has helped me to prevent marking up some old, expensive and hard to replace soft metal bits on some of my old motorcycles. Thanks for another great video, and stay dirty!
A large C-clamp and 2 sockets will work in a pinch as well. Done that in a parking lot in an emergency situation.
This is great. A ball joint press. great job Eric
"MORE!!!"
great vid Eric.
I've done these two methods and my favorite is using a hydraulic press. Freaking magical compared to the bench vise and the u-joint tool.
High quality and very informative. Best videos ive found while researching this. Thanks
I did the u-joints recently in my 1999 S10 Blazer ZR2, there was surprisingly an original u-joint that I had to melt the plastic retainer out of. Pretty interesting, but also easy to remove. Just heat and wait for it to ooze out, and it comes out pretty fast! We used the sockets and vice method.
I have alway put some extra high pressure grease into each cap when I remove them from the trunnion,that way if you accidently drop a cap or bang it around while installing it the grease will keep the needle bearings in place. just don't install the zerk fitting until the joint is fully assembled in the drive shaft.
I have replaced u joints in the middle of nowhere using nothing but a hammer,flat screwdriver, socket and a solid surface to support the drive shaft as you tap the joint out, but that is a last resort.
This is a great example of a u joint fix up
I was shaking my head when you busted out that powertool, thinking: "Bet he's going to say don't use powertools." And then you damaged your part :-)
Stay dirty and keep up the good work.
thinking the same thing....lol
The old "do as I day and not as I do."
Good tip on hitting the ears to settle the caps. I wish I knew that when I did my joints... that was a struggle. Ended up killing a needle and having to buy another $20 joint (I wasn't using the cheap kind).
Great show, all of them. Keep it up.More power and thank you for sharing. That level of knowledge for it's show. applied not only for a car daily common issues .
Hammer and a block of wood with a drift works like a charm but I'm here cause I'm working on a alum shaft and afraid to damage.good tips thanks
I was watching closely how you removed the old and installed the new U-Joints and will put that knowledge to use if I have to replace on on my vehicles.
@ 0:13 I thought those were driveshafts?
Just bustin' your balls, great lesson as always man.
Excellent job! Just add a Tiny bit of heat to expand the yoke before the vice.
I am so glad you made this video because I have to replace mine
very nice eric u r an Excellent Mechanic love all your video's I take note's and follow your procedure's saves a ton of money!!!!!!!
I had never seen the vice method before, I like it......thanks for educating my dumb ass.........subscribed....
As always best how-to vid. I have the ball/u joint clamp, but haven't done joints in awhile. Nice visual refresher. I WAS going to use my impact wrench on the clamp...NOT NOW! Haha, thanks for that visual aid too!
Ball joint press is my favorite method for u joints
When the cross goes bad. Does it sound like your brakes are worn out? As in kinda the same noise?
Good techniques. However, since you have a hydraulic press, why didn't you use it instead of the vise. Additionally, most vise manufacturers advise against opening a vise to the extent you did because it can break the vise (it is a casting not a forging (just saying, even though I do it myself)).
Eric I have used a air hammer and a Yard store in wichita ks or aircraft spruce in tulsa ok. I also use the tool to remove tie rod end tapers and ball joints much easier on me than 2 4 lb hammers.
Great tutorial. I've rebuilt a few driveshafts using a hybrid of these approaches, with a large normal C-clamp and sockets. It's fiddly getting the sockets to stay in place, but it's very doable.
I'd add that in my experience not all zerk fittings are angled in one direction. Also some have circlips that you need a special pliers to remove/install.
Miss you ETCG
Thanks, been a few years, thanks a gain
gonna have to change a u joint on my 1990 f250 this week, didnt thought of the vise but definitly gonna use mine instead of my hammer!
Some U joints that are lubed for life do require extra lubrication. Moog super strength ones come to mind. Mine were like the one Eric installed but the moog FAQ menntioned non-serviceable ones requiring extra grease. They say that for both styles what comes in the joint is just for shipping (assembly lube if you will) and that the caps need packed with grease before one begins.
Helluva instructor! Thank you!
Once again, great video Eric.
By far the best u joint video. Thank you for sharing. 🖒👍
I've always removed em with a hammer was how I was thought and never had any issues
I build driveshafts at my job. Got thousands under my belt. I always use hammer. Knock em out in a fraction of time. We all have what works for us.
@@dericross341 Thank you for this reply. I do one every once in a while. I always wondered how a professional does them. Press or hammer. Now I know. Thanks again 👍
Good catch, you forgot the 3rd way, and 4th way. Third way hammer and socket in vise grips, fourth is get a nice guy like u to do it. Great vid Eric
installing the new yoke didn't the cups go in to easy
without any pressure
is that going to be a problem ?
Had to do this on the trail under a muddy Jeep. Good times
I've been told it's a good idea to put the zirk fitting so it is in compression. The fitting should be in the leading end of the driving yoke and trailing end of the driven yoke.
I've seen them shear when mounted in tension.
Kenny Weimann
very well explained !! awesome vid!!!
i have a kit from tiger tools for U joints works great ! the cost maybe a little bit high but worth every penny!!!
I like these videos. keep up the great work. I also like the upgrade on you camera, its alot clearer great resolution .
:( i try to change the u joints last month this video is very useful but a little bit late jaja thanks Eric I love your show
1:53 Be sure to use your 12 point sockets like Eric is doing. That's about all they're good for anyway.
It's typically better/easier to add the grease to the U-Joint when the shaft is still on the bench. Once it is in the vehicle it can be a bit harder to get the grease gun on the fitting and it just saves time. We all know that saving time is the key to getting paid.
I really like your videos. Very helpful and well explained. Thanks man
You used a hammer to unload shaft ears, nice. Whether by vise or ball joint press or other method...couple taps goes along way unloading pressure removing as well
Thank you sir. Very informative and to the point.
Really helpful! thanks a lot from Panamá.
yoke not yolk. great video. I usually use a hammer and sockets instead of a vice.
if you have a cheap vice i would refrain from using the vice from being the only tool. did it with my old harbor freight vise. a great way to make it easier on yourself and the vise is set it up with the sockets get it good and snug with just your hand, no pipe, and give either the vice or the shaft a good few whacks with the hammer just until you feel the resistance let go, and repeat.
damn Eric you were the love using that penetrating oil LOL
The on-the-trail method has you beat them out using a socket and BFH, though I do have a vice that fits into my trailer hitch that comes in handy for jobs like this.
great video, thanks for making it!