so a year gone by, how many miles has he put on it, and has the seal held up and any gear noise? was the pinion surface smooth where it touches the seal? did you reuse the pinion nut? Everything you did was perfectly acceptable for a FIL, but for my real dad, I would have done bearings, axle seals, and new crush washer and pinion nut
I worked on his again for about 3mths ago and looked underneath for any issues. No oil leaks! I did find 2 front control arm bushings with cracked rubbers so that will be done here soon. He has probably put about 6k on it but most of those miles are pulling his travel trailer. No gear noise, pinion surface had no seal wear, and did reuse the pinion nut. The rear axle bearings, seals, new oil, new rotors, & new calipers we’re installed all about 2mths prior (did not film that stuff). Working on the bearings was when I found the leaky seals.
@@tekmotorsports4052 Thanks for the update! Nut too tight or too loose and bye bye pinion bearings. Seems like I heard somewhere, unless the oil is pouring out, just keep filling it up or rebuild it :)
@@thebluelunarmonkey Yep, that’s why I marked the housing and nut to make sure it went back in the same place. Too tight or too loose will wear out the pinion gear and ring gear. Metal shavings will then get into everything and you’ll have a noisy diff.
@@tekmotorsports4052 in your video you mentioned your torqued pinion nut to 210 lb ft and now your saying you lined 2 marks you made ( on pinion nut and flange/yoke).. Also, you were not supposed to reuse the pinion nut, not reusable.. These nuts are not stalked on instead a new nut is more of an oval shape.. once you bolt on, the oval shape tightens and secures the nut to pinion. When you reuse an old pinion nut, it is like using a regular nut and it can back out from pinion threads...
@@LANDCRUISERLIFE First of all my, apologies. I did torque the nut and did not mark the yoke/nut. As I looked into it more I realized my error. I replied to a comment about lining up those marks but I do that to the BMW diff’s when replacing the pinion seal. I’m almost certain that was on my mind when I replied.
It does have a crush sleeve. I mark the pinion shaft and the nut before I remove them. Match them back up when installing. The preload will stay the same as long as you “do not” exceed your marks.
I have an 05 crew w/ 8ft bed. It weighs 7700 so you were right, it exceeded the weight for your Lift.
Oh yes…. Don’t want that thing busting the lift.
thanks for the video I have been searching for hrs trying to find this particular fix thank you thank you thank you
That’s great to hear and thank you for subscribing to my channel.
Wow a jaw puller and ratchet strap? I just tap it off with a hammer.
@@Glock274Jimmy Yeah! Wasn’t so lucky with the hammer.
just FYI the yoke that goes into the transmission has a cap sometimes that leaks too
What was the part number of the correct one seal?
Sorry but I don’t have it. I went to RAM dealer with vin to get correct part.
So it leaks transmission guild through there ?
The transmission was leaking ATF fluid and the differential was leaking gear oil.
so a year gone by, how many miles has he put on it, and has the seal held up and any gear noise? was the pinion surface smooth where it touches the seal? did you reuse the pinion nut? Everything you did was perfectly acceptable for a FIL, but for my real dad, I would have done bearings, axle seals, and new crush washer and pinion nut
I worked on his again for about 3mths ago and looked underneath for any issues. No oil leaks! I did find 2 front control arm bushings with cracked rubbers so that will be done here soon. He has probably put about 6k on it but most of those miles are pulling his travel trailer. No gear noise, pinion surface had no seal wear, and did reuse the pinion nut. The rear axle bearings, seals, new oil, new rotors, & new calipers we’re installed all about 2mths prior (did not film that stuff). Working on the bearings was when I found the leaky seals.
@@tekmotorsports4052 Thanks for the update! Nut too tight or too loose and bye bye pinion bearings. Seems like I heard somewhere, unless the oil is pouring out, just keep filling it up or rebuild it :)
@@thebluelunarmonkey Yep, that’s why I marked the housing and nut to make sure it went back in the same place. Too tight or too loose will wear out the pinion gear and ring gear. Metal shavings will then get into everything and you’ll have a noisy diff.
@@tekmotorsports4052 in your video you mentioned your torqued pinion nut to 210 lb ft and now your saying you lined 2 marks you made ( on pinion nut and flange/yoke).. Also, you were not supposed to reuse the pinion nut, not reusable.. These nuts are not stalked on instead a new nut is more of an oval shape.. once you bolt on, the oval shape tightens and secures the nut to pinion. When you reuse an old pinion nut, it is like using a regular nut and it can back out from pinion threads...
@@LANDCRUISERLIFE First of all my, apologies. I did torque the nut and did not mark the yoke/nut. As I looked into it more I realized my error. I replied to a comment about lining up those marks but I do that to the BMW diff’s when replacing the pinion seal. I’m almost certain that was on my mind when I replied.
Does yours have a crushed sleeve and don't you have to check the preload
It does have a crush sleeve. I mark the pinion shaft and the nut before I remove them. Match them back up when installing. The preload will stay the same as long as you “do not” exceed your marks.
I'm working on my pinion seal today, last night all the bugs in the world were eating me alive.
great video! glad the rat didn't show up