How to use the Lock Miter Bit
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2019
- #lockmiter #miterlock #RouterTable
The Lock Miter is a tricky joint to master and can be quite frustrating. The applications for this type of joint are endless, you can use it to create drawers, faux beams, posts, chunky table legs and corners on cabinets. If you need a 90 deg corner that is easy to glue up and creates a super strong joint this bit is for you!
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This presenter does a good job of simplifying the bit setup.
Very helpful video. Much easier than the major factory manufactures that say you must find center of the work piece then center of the bit.
DUDE!! Super Helpful. Thanks!
Thank you! I just purchased one of these bits and began experimenting. This video will help a lot. A clear demonstration well explained.
Very good stuff here, cant wait to see the next videos! Thank you for sharing your skills.
Keep it up Juan. You’re off to a good start!
Excellent tutorial. I found it informative and to the point. Thank you.
Yes it is helpful. I now have a Jessem setup and going to try again.
Really struggled with this and then bought the setup block. Then still had misalignment problems. I came to the same conclusion that 3/4 in. stock isn't 3/4 in. and causes misalignment issues. I added your tips to my setup sheet. Move bit up an in slightly. thank you .
Thank you, great presentation.
Thank you!
I've only had success with a lock miter by using the bit on solid wood. With plywood, like hardwood veneer plywood, I got a lot of tear out where you cannot sand the tear out away without sanding through the veneer. I find it easier to just cut 45 degree corners on both solid wood and plywood and assemble using Titebond 3 and corner clamps. Titebond 3 is very strong in tight fitting joints and I doubt the corner will ever come apart. Wood glues are much better than they used to be.
This was an awesome video. Just what I needed. Thank You.
Thanks for this.
That’s a really simple to follow explanation on how to set one of these things up thankyou, I only have one more question, what speeds do you use for the small and medium size cutters. Great video by the way I could see very clearly every part of the way you set it up.
Instead of buying the set up block because I use varying thicknesses I set it up to the thickness I am using and once my test piece is right on I mark the thickness and save it for next time I use that thickness. Great video keep up the good work.
. I would recommend measuring the offset of the 2 joined pieces, divide the offset by 2 and raise the bit by that dimension.
many of us construct drawers out of baltic birch (BB). Baltic Birch plywood only comes in metric thicknesses. The most common sizes found in North America are 6mm, , & . Additionally 3mm, , , & 25mm can occasionally be found in a narrower range of grades. When using material that is not exactly 5/8 or 3/4, you need to make your own set up blocks and understand the steps to setting the bit correctly:
Setting the height:
Bottom edge of the bit tongue needs to be centered on the material- measure the thickness on the material, a digital caliper works well, divide by 2 and set the tongue height. Test cut and check.
Setting the depth:
With your material laid flat against the router fence, run a straight edge across the top. The straight edge should just kiss the the edge of the top 45 of the bit. Double check by holding the material vertical against the fence and run the straight edge along the face, again, the straight edge should just kiss the bottom 45 cutter. Test cut and check.
You now have a test block...don't loose it...hahahaha
Buen video hermano gracias...
super, thanks
Afraid to use mine but I have to try it . Thank You
Yes it has helped me. I'm going to stick with my traditional joinery
Thank you Juan, just learning . Where did you get bit
I’m trying to do the angles on the end pieces as I’m using 3/4” pine and I’m trying to make a box. I’m definitely new to woodworking. I don’t have the setup plastic piece either. Can you help me ? Thanks Bill
Most suggest that once you have the bit setup you make your own test block. Save a plastic tree!
Get/make a test block for a specific thickness ei: 5/8". When ready to make your joints, measure the thickness of the boards. Split the difference between that and 5/8" and that's where you need to be.
That is a really nice router too. What is the brand?
Can this be used on mitered end joints for framing?
what wood thickness can this router work with
Thanks for the effort in making a great video!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video!. Juan, can the Rockler jig be used for a router bit from another company, or is it specific to the Rockler Bit?
I can't speak for other bits but i'm sure they are all machined differently. I would stick to the same company to avoid discrepencies.
Can we use this to make wooden planks
Dos the bit come with the set up block.
You can avoid all the unnecessary messing around by using a Lock Miter Master jig, a simple device that can be used for perfect setups with any thickness of stock within the range of almost ever lock miter router bit manufactured. Contrary to many claims that you can't make a lock miter joint using stock with different thickness, it is easy to do using a LMM jig, e.g. drawer with true 3/4" front and 1/2" , etc. thick sides or a casework with true 3/4" (actually any thickness) face frames and plywood sides of 1/2", 5/8" or other thicknesses like 23/32" or metric ply sides. You can also use the LMM to do the setup to make off-set lock miters so the miter line is only visible on one face, e.g. the side.
Purchased the LMM Jig and found it didn't work for me, Looking into why I found it is made for the Infinity Lock miter bit, which is different than a Rockler lock miter bit. The Rockler bit has a 45 deg profile but that profile is also canted back at about 15 deg. causing the jig to be out of alignment with the fence and the table when attached to the bit. I thought the jig was a fantastic idea and had high hopes for it but alas no joy here.
@@richardleslie410 Totally incorrect!! (except for your first statement that it "didn't work for you."
The Lock Miter Master was designed with no special lock miter bit in mind. It works will any brand of lock miter bit and shaper cutter whose cutting edge is a radius not a chord, which is just about every brand of router bit and some shaper bits, even those whose cutting edge has a steep shear angle!! I should know, I invented this patented jig!! You obviously didn't read or understand the instructions on the Infinity Website. Its use only requires you carefully mark the center of the edge of the stock.
As this video clearly illustrates, setup blocks only work if they they are the EXACT same thickness as the stock. Any other thickness may result in needlessly chasing the setup. Also, the vlogger kind mentions this but not really, since the cutting edge of the lock miter bit is at a 45° angle, any change in bit height must be matched with same amount of change in the fence position. Almost every set of instructions published on how to set this bit are wrong and most devolve into needless and often unsuccessful trial and error. Regardless of brand, the setup for every bit is based on the true center of geometry of the cutting edge and the center of the stock- both of which are exploited by the Lock Miter Master jig.
Even if you don't own a Infinity lock miter bit- watch their video!
Hola... Podrías enviar el video en español?.... Saludos desde Chile
Where can I get this green guide?
How does this bit work with plywood? Do I lose the edge?
I did that? Then I bought infinity lock miter bits and their pat set tool! Bam one set up & I am done!
Thanks for that - added the web page to my favourites for purchase another day :-) www.timbecon.com.au/infinity-lock-mitre-setup-jigs
just make sure your stock is the same thickness ---run all stock through your planer at the same time
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Okaaaaay....and if you don't have those silly blocks?
Raise the bit by 50% of the test piece height difference.
By the time you
Got this setup your client left to another 😂
The set block is sort of useless never seen a peace of lumber exactly 5/8 or 3/4’ unless I mill it.
KISS method your right to much crap in other vids
what a waste of time...
one unlike from me....please measure your wood before explaining nonsense!
To much bla bla bla