I watch a lot of home improvement how to's here on you tube. Your video is excellent, precise and great demonstration on your suggested insulation fix. Thanks!
Thanks for this helpful video. One tip (mistake to avoid): check how much room you have around the stair hardware by going up into the attic (with a light) and having somebody below put the stairs up. Measure the distance between the pneumatic closer, for example, and the wooden frame that you're building your box to fit into. I built a box from 1" foam, and was so happy to go in and install it in the attic... and then pretty disappointed to see it lifted up by the pneumatic closers so that it left a big air gap.
I think I will have that problem too. The metal pieces of the stairs stick up higher into the attic than the folded stairs themselves so it won’t be a perfect cuboid shape.
Great video--so much better than the zipper style stair covers that are so common now! You used to be able to buy boxes like the one you made as kits but now I can't find them anywhere, at least not this style. An extra thing I did to the the box is to add two small drawer pull handles to the inside of the short ends, and another two to the short ends of the door framing just below where the box sits on the foam weather stripping, so that I can tighten the box down onto the weather stripping for a better air seal.
Yeah I bought a zipper style one and it's junk. It took me an hour to install it since my attic joists/framing is in the way. I stapled it and used vapour barrier tape on the edges. But the piece of junk leaks through the zipper teeth I can even see the attic light through the teeth. A huge waste of my time and my money.
For those confused about the box: If you listen at 1:10 he states that he used 9 1/2" tall sides to allow for the fold-up stairs to go up into the box. For once, this is a fast, to-the-point, DIY video. Enjoy....
This is exactly what I need in my apartment. Don't want to spring for something expensive because it's a rental, but can't afford the heat loss either. This is the sort of thing that'll fit the bill exactly. My plans for tomorrow now involve a trip to the hardware store.
While the aluminum tape will do a nice job while building this box, it will eventually separate from the foam (due to the foam, not the tape). The best thing to do is purchase the FOIL backed insulation board. The foil tape will stick to this forever.
Thats is a nice a simple fix but you onlyhave about 4-6" of insulation in that attic. In Wisconsin Energy Star recommends R49 or 15" of blown cellulose (about 22" if using fiberglass). So those boxes create a real problem if you want to insulate up and around the hatch. We build a dam using 2"x12" lumber on top of the scutle framing all around the scuttle to hold back our insulation and then rest a flat panel that is insulated to R50 on top.
A good and simple method. IMHO, can we just make a cover instead of a box (maybe with some foam on the back) as I didn't see a clear advantage of the box space.
I had the same question. But then I discovered that when our attic stairs fold up, the folded stairs stack quite a bit higher than the level where the flat board would rest. So I needed a box after all. It may depend on your stairs.
I had mine all built, used 1 1/2 " board. problem was the ledge was 1" so I had 1/2" over hung which interupted with the spring and mechanical hardware.. more cutting..
I had the same problem, had to redo my box. Works great picked up 3 degrees of heat in my hallway. Built mine with scrap wood and then insulated it with more scrap insulation. Came in at about 8 pounds but fits nice and tight.
It is much easier to just glue closed cell foam between the ladder itself and the hatch lid and/or to the ceiling side of the hatch. Be sure to to use the correct adhesive as many adhesives will melt the foam. Use an adhesive specifically made for foam board, which is available at all big box stores. The way the weatherstripping is used in this video is useless due to the fact that the weatherstripping is not compressed.
are those foam boards that he is using? can i find those at home depot? this seems so much cheaper than the $50 ones i see sold on amazon where you have use a staple gun and aluminum foil too in order to install them.
definitely helps more with air filtration than anything, I imagine the r value is less than R7. Where attics need R38. I'm about to do this myself with a similar technique but filling the box with loose insulation and reenforcing with stripping. also using foam board caulking for joints.
Great idea, however you need a thermal barrier(15 min fire barrier) above and below the xps foam board as it is combustable. 1/2" sheetrock, 3" mineral wool and any other that meets code. I am dealing with this issue right now and it isn't fun, since each gov agency has something different to say, however not being covered by insurance in a fire situation could be an incentive to check the codes out. In most areas no permit or inspection is needed for insulating an attic, at least after the house has ben built. Were on our own. Good luck!
15 years later and this was an awesome find! Thank you!
I watch a lot of home improvement how to's here on you tube. Your video is excellent, precise and great demonstration on your suggested insulation fix. Thanks!
Thanks for this helpful video. One tip (mistake to avoid): check how much room you have around the stair hardware by going up into the attic (with a light) and having somebody below put the stairs up. Measure the distance between the pneumatic closer, for example, and the wooden frame that you're building your box to fit into. I built a box from 1" foam, and was so happy to go in and install it in the attic... and then pretty disappointed to see it lifted up by the pneumatic closers so that it left a big air gap.
I think I will have that problem too. The metal pieces of the stairs stick up higher into the attic than the folded stairs themselves so it won’t be a perfect cuboid shape.
Great video--so much better than the zipper style stair covers that are so common now! You used to be able to buy boxes like the one you made as kits but now I can't find them anywhere, at least not this style. An extra thing I did to the the box is to add two small drawer pull handles to the inside of the short ends, and another two to the short ends of the door framing just below where the box sits on the foam weather stripping, so that I can tighten the box down onto the weather stripping for a better air seal.
Yeah I bought a zipper style one and it's junk. It took me an hour to install it since my attic joists/framing is in the way. I stapled it and used vapour barrier tape on the edges. But the piece of junk leaks through the zipper teeth I can even see the attic light through the teeth. A huge waste of my time and my money.
For those confused about the box: If you listen at 1:10 he states that he used 9 1/2" tall sides to allow for the fold-up stairs to go up into the box. For once, this is a fast, to-the-point, DIY video. Enjoy....
Brilliant! Thank you Roy
This is exactly what I need in my apartment. Don't want to spring for something expensive because it's a rental, but can't afford the heat loss either. This is the sort of thing that'll fit the bill exactly. My plans for tomorrow now involve a trip to the hardware store.
Thanks for sharing this tip. Made one with foil backed board and immediately felt the difference in temperature.
Just wanted to say thank you for the video. I just got done doing this and it made a big difference, so thanks 👍🏽
I had a condensation issue for exactly this reason. I didn't have an insulation box. Good video.
Thanks!
While the aluminum tape will do a nice job while building this box, it will eventually separate from the foam (due to the foam, not the tape). The best thing to do is purchase the FOIL backed insulation board. The foil tape will stick to this forever.
What is a good brand aluminum foil tape that will stick to foam forever? thanks.
Great TIP! Thank you
Thats is a nice a simple fix but you onlyhave about 4-6" of insulation in that attic. In Wisconsin Energy Star recommends R49 or 15" of blown cellulose (about 22" if using fiberglass). So those boxes create a real problem if you want to insulate up and around the hatch. We build a dam using 2"x12" lumber on top of the scutle framing all around the scuttle to hold back our insulation and then rest a flat panel that is insulated to R50 on top.
Aren't you just Tops!
Thanks ... Just did and it worked perfectly. God Bless
A good and simple method. IMHO, can we just make a cover instead of a box (maybe with some foam on the back) as I didn't see a clear advantage of the box space.
you mean just a flat board that rests on top of the attic door right?
I had the same question. But then I discovered that when our attic stairs fold up, the folded stairs stack quite a bit higher than the level where the flat board would rest. So I needed a box after all. It may depend on your stairs.
I had mine all built, used 1 1/2 " board. problem was the ledge was 1" so I had 1/2" over hung which interupted with the spring and mechanical hardware.. more cutting..
I had the same problem, had to redo my box. Works great picked up 3 degrees of heat in my hallway. Built mine with scrap wood and then insulated it with more scrap insulation. Came in at about 8 pounds but fits nice and tight.
Nice video. I elected to use Liquid Nails instead of tape to hold the box together.
It is much easier to just glue closed cell foam between the ladder itself and the hatch lid and/or to the ceiling side of the hatch. Be sure to to use the correct adhesive as many adhesives will melt the foam. Use an adhesive specifically made for foam board, which is available at all big box stores. The way the weatherstripping is used in this video is useless due to the fact that the weatherstripping is not compressed.
Tom Rumish, I thought weather striping should not be compressed. IDK
That's what I did, glued it to the backside of the pulldown door.
are those foam boards that he is using? can i find those at home depot? this seems so much cheaper than the $50 ones i see sold on amazon where you have use a staple gun and aluminum foil too in order to install them.
Great info!!!!
definitely helps more with air filtration than anything, I imagine the r value is less than R7. Where attics need R38. I'm about to do this myself with a similar technique but filling the box with loose insulation and reenforcing with stripping. also using foam board caulking for joints.
Don't forget to seal around the frame.
Great idea, however you need a thermal barrier(15 min fire barrier) above and below the xps foam board as it is combustable. 1/2" sheetrock, 3" mineral wool and any other that meets code. I am dealing with this issue right now and it isn't fun, since each gov agency has something different to say, however not being covered by insurance in a fire situation could be an incentive to check the codes out. In most areas no permit or inspection is needed for insulating an attic, at least after the house has ben built. Were on our own. Good luck!
Ug
Housing codes are at a point that it seems mainly for profit then safety.
Everything burns. Use polyiso
Can you explain why this is needed for fire code? If your house is on fire, what's the difference? Thank you!
got the point, tks.
am I missing something here.....I presume the ladder folds into itself unlike mine which slides taking up substantial roof space? 🤔
Your missing something
Thank you sir.
I think he just made a box that could be useable by everyone. Different folded ladders might need different heights.