Thanks so much for telling where to get her... I found the awesome Back to the Future Dolorean online and I'm using the Missionary 100 Animations with her...
I sometimes add the texture I use to be lumine slider to cut down on the brightness of the emissive lights coming from an object in the render. It helps since I don't know much about postwork. It doesn't affect the light being made just how it appears in the render.
The Default setting is cd/m^2 and if you use that the Luminance needs to go a lot higher, or you can change the cd/m^2 to cd/cm^2. I guess setting the range from meters to centimeters means the low like is closer to the light, Then you can use luminance below 1000. I think if you want the look of a 60 watt bulb, it might need 80 to 120 luminance, and that make it easer to guess than try to get a bright light with an unknown number of zeros. I made a sun high in the sky so the shadows would be sharper, and a sky light with lower blue lighting to mimic the sun and sky and added clouds. I don't think that was a very good idea, because they sun light in the program can reflect the light from a mirror while this emissive lighting don't reflect with a mirror. The single side and double sided can help if you want the light to go out the surface on both sides. If you use a lot of light on a plain and you see very little light, then flip it over to shine the light in the right direction or turn on double sided. There is a limit to how high the luminance. It might be around a 100 million and then it goes to the highest number with a lot of 9's and something like 2340 at the end. The Emission Temperature for red light is below 1200, it is yellow at 1200 so, 1000 to 1200 is orange, bright sun light is all the way up. I worked with emissive lighting a very long time ago in the 8th version of IMSI TurboCad 3D. Once I used it to create lighting that could go through glass, the program sky rocketed in price. That might be around 2003 or 2004. The lighting company had an odd name but their lighting was ray trace. I made a light bulb to see when I was getting the light through the glass, and while saving the scene with the light bulb in it, anyone that opened the file gets that lighting, and they took a year to notice look at it and then backdated their claims before 2004, because that was when I started to use it in a $9 version of IMSI TurboCad version 4. I just thought it was dumb not seeing the light go through transparent glass. It just treated it like a solid object, and people setup other lighting to create the effect. Once I finished the lighting it made everything look real and less like the 3D home design program, and light reflected through a mirror.
Hey Joanna - I'm glad you found it useful. I always say "keep it simple" .. it's always stood me in good stead and something I try to adhere to in Daz also .. :)
Finally someone who is in favor of self-emitter lights. I read on other channels that many "professionals" - even if they really might be it, when they come from real photography - almost all vote down on that option, and especially they dislike the denoiser, to cope with dark scenes fireflies. I am just a hobbyist and found all other lights than self emitters very difficult to use, until I found out about self emitters like You did. Very useful for inhouse scenes, very easy to use, and as You say, a natural = non-artificial lighting.
I do like my Emissive lights .. I actually like the "buzz" of finding something in-scene to use as a "natural" light source rather than just creating a spot light to do an artificial job. So I'm glad to have a kindred spirit in you!
Simply the best tutorial on this subject with relatable examples, not some farfetched stuff like making hair glow. You might have missed a trick in the title, adding '(making a light bulb glow etc.)' or something to that effect, would draw in more beginners like me. Thx. Revisited the tutorial and now I have subbed.
Awww Thanks. It's always my plan to keep things simple and real. I'm with you on the glowing eyes and hair tutorials .. Many can be put off and respond with " well, i'm not looking to make eyes glow" .. and don't see the practical applications of the technique being shown. UA-cam titles are a no-win scenario, sadly. If going with your suggestion - you'd have a whole bunch of people claiming it should have been called "How to make hair glow" .. You can't win!! So, I just called it for what it is and hope for the best!
You're welcome, Simon .. "Keep things simple" .. is my ethos .. each light you add into a scene increases the complexity of the scene and it only takes one badly placed light, one unnatural light, one light that's too bright etc .. to potentially spoil what would have been a good image .. So if you keep it simple, it negates that risk.
Thanks for the download of Ensley...I just got her I'm gonna play with her today.. You did so well on that picture of the girl on the red shirt where'd you get those clothes?
Something you haven't mentioned in your videos about lights is noise and render times. Emissive lights, especially certain shapes, are noisier. Flat shapes like rectangles not so much but small round or cylindrical shapes are very noisy for me. Point lights are the next noisiest and spotlights least. The noisier the scene the longer the render. Sometimes the noise persists even after the render is done so you either mess with the default settings to give the engine enough time to finish or figure out a way to reduce noise and fireflys. It's not always easy to figure out what is creating the noise. Right now I am working on a scene with no water and little glass in the scene but very noisy. The light sources are off camera so I thought it was easier to just add point lights for less noise and quicker render times.
I've found that noise comes from the lack of sufficient light in the scene .. it may well LOOK well lit but there's probably not enough direct light in the areas where the grain is appearing and so it takes an age for that area / image to fully render out the grain .. I won't get into all the detail here as I am planning a couple of videos .. not necessarilly focusing on grain .. but the differences between direct and indirect light in scenes and pros and cons of each .. of which grain will be covered .. so keep your eyes open for that!
Other than not getting the complete black out (had to use "Dome Only" to replicate, don't know why), a very follow-able tutorial. I am at the point where I am starting to make scenes. Many of the locations have florescent lights and I was getting quite frustrated. This should help solve many of the issues. My thanks, sir.
Hey Heegaherger - thanks, I'm glad the video helped you out .. As for the black out .. do you mean during scene construction everything was black? if so, go to Window > Preview Lights and turn that "off" - so the icon is NOT highlighted .. and see if that helps (on something other than Dome Only) .. or was it during Render?
@@RaukoDaz3D I was referring to scene construction. I can get the black out while using a camera, but not in perspective. Perspective still has light. Not as presented, but I can work with that. I definitely will be working my way through your library.
Thanks for the tuts! The first setting I almost always change in emissives is the luminance units, to watts. It's just a personal thing. Of the many uses for emissives/mesh lights: lets say you're using sun/sky (instead of hdri). That means you can't use "normal" daz lights (spotlights and the like). But emissives will work. Emissives can be hard to position, but there are ways to parent cameras to emissive objects so you can orient and position them like you would with spotlights (Callad created suchlike a long time ago). A good tutorial on how to do that would probably be helpful for your subscribers!
Funny you talk about closing in on 1k and already your closing in on 2k. Subbed and, I think Daz3d would be WAY more popular if they put out Great informative videos like you do! Thanks.
Really good video mate very informative.! I wonder in the future if you would consider doing a tutorial on the hdr reflective surface trick you did used in your Freja 8 video? Your explanations are always so clear and easy to follow.
Hey Dan - thanks for that. As for the "Freja 8" trick? You just watched it .. 😄 .. In that video I just created an emissive plane primitive instead of the sphere I created in the first part of this video .. and then, instead of leaving the plane white as I did with the sphere, I instead added the texture I'd used for the HDRI global light to the Emissive Color of the plane in the same way I added the Simpsons to the TV Emissive Color in the second part of this video .. Does that make sense?? If not, let me know ...
Great walkthrough on how to make emissive objects and surfaces. My only suggestion would be to explore different luminance units. The default cd/m^2 (candles per meter squared, I think) is far too low to be practical for most scenes unless you really turn down the exposure value. I often find kcd/m^2 works better for tweaking values.
Hey thanks Sean .. I did actually plan to touch upon the luminence units during the video but .. forgot when I got to it .. 😄 .. Ultimately, it doesn't effect the final render but, as you say, it is sometimes more practical to use a different unit and allows for a lot of fine tuning!
I love your tutorials. They're very well paced and explained. With every one I see the title and think: 'No need, I know all about that', and then I watch and I always pick up valuable information I had no idea about. Keep up the good work. BTW, how do you get hair looking so nice and natural. Mine always looks like straw. Is it your rendering and lighting techniques, or do you advise to go for the better quality (i.e. more expensive) hair items?
How do you keep the image from being grainy? I’ve been having issues with my images coming out grainy in more dimly lit scenes? Is that my card or is it something I’m doing in lighting the scene? Love your stuff.
Gazillions of iterations! The less light in the scene - the more iterations you need to get rid of the grain (or, more accurately, to complete the render to a sufficient level the grain is gone). Yes, that means GPU power. The more you've got. The quicker and cleaner the image will be.
If you don't have the grunt under the hood - you could always use the denoiser and sacrifice a little overall quality for speed and time. Check out the following video if you haven’t already : ua-cam.com/video/4opzWycb0i8/v-deo.html
@ I have a NVIdia 3070 Ti on my laptop. I have the 4090 on my desktop, but I’m not home right now. I got it upto over 3600 iterations last night, but it still looks grainy. Right now I need to upgrade my hard drive and add a second one, but i can’t do much about the GPU
@ I’ve been using the denoiser built into the render engine. I post in Photoshop but even that denoiser has issues dealing with the graininess or I’m not using it right.
@@Mudwyrm a 4090 should be perfectly fine - I have one myself .. depending on the resolution I can push out 30,000 iterations in a hour in 4k at 10:13 canvas ratio .. full 4k (16:9 ratio) - I can do 15,000 iterations - which is more than plenty for getting rid of grain. What resolution are you rendering in? For me 3600 iterations would take about 15 minutes render time at the resolution and screen size mentioned above ... So what resolution and screen size are you rendering in as you should be getting more than 3600 iterations before you're wanting to stop rendering. If that 3600 is taking hours then something isn't quite right (unless you're rendering in a huge resolution)
Very nice render. Looking forward to the next vid. I've been using colored spotlights to iluminate character to simulate the light from the TV. Works okay but looks a bit un natural
Hey, Harrison, thanks. Yeah, we don't encounter a spotlight very often in everyday life .. maybe on stage in a theatre or nightclub or a studio if you're a fashion model .. but everyday life? Very rarely .. and so adding direct lights such as a spot light into a "realistic" scene will be unnatural. Our brains are clever enough to realise that "something isn't right" even if we aren't consciously aware of what that "something" is .. If we absolutley have to add a direct light then their use has to be very subtle, not as a primary light and it has to be consistant with the environment light we're using ..
If your into Neon Noir (Like Blade Runner) Iray Emissive lights are gonna be your buddy. Along with carefully adjusting the depth of field in the camera and adding some smoke/steam, you can get some epic results.....it takes some serious gpu horsepower though($$$).....
@@Peter_Stoops She's a slightly modified (used a different skin) Paisley for Teen Josie .. there'll be links up in the description for her and all her bits.
@@Peter_Stoops You don't need an excuse .. just go and do it ..... (disclaimer : If you go broke and lose your house, car and dog as a result of this over excuberant advice .. it's not my fault!! 😜)
I cheated in this example .. I rendered the scene as normal (with the overblown screen) .. and then spot rendered the TV without any emission before Photoshop-ping them together ..
You dont need to go to the content tab to get the iray uber shader, you can also get it from the surfaces tab, presets tab, sadly my daz has destroyed this function and if I select any shader from this list it thinks I'm loading a scene and wants me to save and delete the current scene..
A very interesting tutorial, really simple and very well done ! Thank you so much. I just dont understand how you did to have the "simpson" picture on the screen on the final render. Best regards from Paris ! 😀😀
Hey there, thanks .... When I used the Simpsons image as an emissive light .. it completely washed out the image itself .. so, I just re-added the image in Photoshop after the render was complete.
Thanks. As usual I got a load of tips watching this tutorial. In some other tutorials I've also seen them use Luminance Units. You're not using them, are you? Is there a reason behind it?
Thanks, Ingemar .. as far as I'm aware, the Luminance Units (and I did mean to mention in the video! Doh!) are just the units of measurement of your Luminance slider .. they don't actively change anything other than how far up or down the scale the Luminance slider has to go to get the results you want. Think of it as choosing to measure in cms rather than inches .. it just a personal preference really .. Some of the numbers on the Luminance slider can get quite high so sometimes it's better to change to a different measurement unit to make them more readable .. it can be useful, also, if you're trying to replicate a real world light souce and you only have it's luminance value in a particular unit .. just switch to that unit in Daz and enter the number ..
Loved this tutorial! I just have a question, let's say that you didn't use the tv to light the front of the model, how else would you light it? I usually have a scene where my model is facing away from the light and I never find a way to light the front of it correctly.
In the video above .. I wouldn't have .. I'd have thrown the render in the bin and done something else!!! 😮 .. No seriously .. a few things .. Firstly, an environment is as much an important part of the render as the lights in the scene .. I tend to think too many people put their model into a particular environment because it will be a "cool background" to the model .. The TV is in the scene BECAUSE it's the primary light scource .. I wouldn't have done the scene without the TV .. so firstly, think how you can use the environment to light your models .. or, if there's nothing obvious, can you add something into the scene (which could be there, but isn't) to help light the model? (no! not a spotlight!!) Secondly, if there's nothing obvious there already or that can be added .. if using a HDRI as the primary light source .. raise the Environmental Map slider in the render setting .. give what light there is more intensity to that when it bounces around the scene and eventually falls on your models front .. it has more brightness .. If you have to raise the environment map slider to silly levels, then do so if you need to. Now this is a balancing act .. the more you raise the intensity, the more the light behind the model will increase and could start to wash out .. so, you need to experiment with it .. Thirdly, you could place a white glossy plane in front of the character (off camera) .. to bounce the light from behind the model back onto the front of the model (like what a real world photographer would do in outdoor shots, for instance). There's a couple of other methods .. but, you can try these for now .. this is just my personal opinion here - but try and avoid plonking a great big spotlight in front as you'll wash out all the good work the realistic environmental light has done .. In most "real" scenes, unlike a "photo shoot" scene in a studio .. Spotlights are artificial in a nature and will produce an artificial light that won't be consistant with the rest of the light in the scene .. Does that help??
@@RaukoDaz3D Hi! Thanks again for the tips, i spent all day trying out various setups with lights, and i tryed the glossy plane but it doesn't really work (or i'm doing something wrong with it) when the light is too far away or too dim, so i was wondering if i could use a plane with the same hdri that i'm using in the scene as emissive? Sorry but I'm really new to daz T_T
@@virtlersna5414 Yes!!! That's one of the "other" options that I was going to mention but my original reply was getting too long and I felt including this option also would have ended up me writing a book as it might have been a bit long and drawn out to explain it .. .. :) .. if you check out this speed build video .. ua-cam.com/video/PIiYC_8OA9Y/v-deo.html .. I do exactly that sometime through the video ..
Any chance a tutorial of how to deal with insane high poly count hair? I having some problem with some character who literally crashong and burning my renders because of it.
Hey Darcy .. there's nothing much to be done in truth .. the only option you have is, with the hair selected, go into Parameters > Mesh Resolution and lower the sliders on "View SubD level" and "Render SubD level" down to 0 (or as low as your system can handle) and turn the Resolution Level to "Base" if that is set to somthing else. See if that improves things for you. And that's about it really .. there is an old app on the Daz store called "decimator" or somesuch which says it cuts the polygon count on models - but last time I looked it was $100 .. too expensive for me to check whether it actually works or not with recent Daz versions ..
@@1986Hikaru Ahh .. you were talking about strand hair .. when you said "poly count" I assumed you meant normal average hair .. but yeah, the line tesselation is more or less strand hairs version of SubD .. Glad you got it sorted!
It won't be on the Sphere menu but on the Surfaces tab .. select the Sphere .. Go to the Surfaces tab .. and you'll see Emission .. click on it and you'll see Emission Color .. click that and choose any non-black color.
You wouldn't need to crank up the Luminance slider to unreal values if you set the EV (exposure value) to a real world value before starting to light the scene.
that lamp doesn't even work like a real lamp. I have a lamp like that, and when I turn it on the whole room lights up not just near the wall...Daz is totally inaccurate with handling lighting the way it would work in real life.
The problem probably isn't the lamp but the transparency settings on the lamp shade .. it's probably so opaque as to not let light pass through it - only from above and below where there's nothing blocking it. If I'd increased the transparency on the shade it would have let more light flood into the room like a "normal" real life lamp.
Asset Links (see description above for details) :
Model : tinyurl.com/yy246dk2
Hair : tinyurl.com/yxgurvuu
Intro Model : tinyurl.com/y4bokqbo
You're my favorite Daz tutor. Mostly for the accent, but it's a bonus that you know what you're talking about.
Ha! I don't have an accent! Do I ?? I'm sure I sound accent free!! 😀😀
But, whatever the reason you like, I'm happy to have you around!
Shouldn't that be the other way around? 😂
Thanks so much for telling where to get her... I found the awesome Back to the Future Dolorean online and I'm using the Missionary 100 Animations with her...
I sometimes add the texture I use to be lumine slider to cut down on the brightness of the emissive lights coming from an object in the render. It helps since I don't know much about postwork. It doesn't affect the light being made just how it appears in the render.
The Default setting is cd/m^2 and if you use that the Luminance needs to go a lot higher, or you can change the cd/m^2 to cd/cm^2. I guess setting the range from meters to centimeters means the low like is closer to the light, Then you can use luminance below 1000. I think if you want the look of a 60 watt bulb, it might need 80 to 120 luminance, and that make it easer to guess than try to get a bright light with an unknown number of zeros. I made a sun high in the sky so the shadows would be sharper, and a sky light with lower blue lighting to mimic the sun and sky and added clouds. I don't think that was a very good idea, because they sun light in the program can reflect the light from a mirror while this emissive lighting don't reflect with a mirror.
The single side and double sided can help if you want the light to go out the surface on both sides. If you use a lot of light on a plain and you see very little light, then flip it over to shine the light in the right direction or turn on double sided. There is a limit to how high the luminance. It might be around a 100 million and then it goes to the highest number with a lot of 9's and something like 2340 at the end.
The Emission Temperature for red light is below 1200, it is yellow at 1200 so, 1000 to 1200 is orange, bright sun light is all the way up.
I worked with emissive lighting a very long time ago in the 8th version of IMSI TurboCad 3D. Once I used it to create lighting that could go through glass, the program sky rocketed in price. That might be around 2003 or 2004. The lighting company had an odd name but their lighting was ray trace. I made a light bulb to see when I was getting the light through the glass, and while saving the scene with the light bulb in it, anyone that opened the file gets that lighting, and they took a year to notice look at it and then backdated their claims before 2004, because that was when I started to use it in a $9 version of IMSI TurboCad version 4. I just thought it was dumb not seeing the light go through transparent glass. It just treated it like a solid object, and people setup other lighting to create the effect. Once I finished the lighting it made everything look real and less like the 3D home design program, and light reflected through a mirror.
Thanks for the video. It is useful. I've watched other tutorials about lighting, while good, they didn't show this simpler way to light scenes.
Hey Joanna - I'm glad you found it useful.
I always say "keep it simple" .. it's always stood me in good stead and something I try to adhere to in Daz also .. :)
Finally someone who is in favor of self-emitter lights. I read on other channels that many "professionals" - even if they really might be it, when they come from real photography - almost all vote down on that option, and especially they dislike the denoiser, to cope with dark scenes fireflies. I am just a hobbyist and found all other lights than self emitters very difficult to use, until I found out about self emitters like You did. Very useful for inhouse scenes, very easy to use, and as You say, a natural = non-artificial lighting.
I do like my Emissive lights .. I actually like the "buzz" of finding something in-scene to use as a "natural" light source rather than just creating a spot light to do an artificial job. So I'm glad to have a kindred spirit in you!
Beautiful work.
Fantastic video! Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Keep coming back to this one. Great tutorial :)
Thanks Raphael! Glad you like!
Lighting the TV scene with just the lamp and the TV reallty makes all the difference! Very nice to know. 🙂
Just experiment with little things like this and see what results you can get
Simply the best tutorial on this subject with relatable examples, not some farfetched stuff like making hair glow. You might have missed a trick in the title, adding '(making a light bulb glow etc.)' or something to that effect, would draw in more beginners like me. Thx. Revisited the tutorial and now I have subbed.
Awww Thanks. It's always my plan to keep things simple and real. I'm with you on the glowing eyes and hair tutorials .. Many can be put off and respond with " well, i'm not looking to make eyes glow" .. and don't see the practical applications of the technique being shown.
UA-cam titles are a no-win scenario, sadly. If going with your suggestion - you'd have a whole bunch of people claiming it should have been called "How to make hair glow" .. You can't win!! So, I just called it for what it is and hope for the best!
Thanks so much for your tutorials. I'm learning so much.
Your Welcome Sebastian .. glad I can be of help!
Very very clever. Your scenes always look so photo real. Thanks again for another awesome , informative tutorial.
You're welcome, Simon .. "Keep things simple" .. is my ethos .. each light you add into a scene increases the complexity of the scene and it only takes one badly placed light, one unnatural light, one light that's too bright etc .. to potentially spoil what would have been a good image .. So if you keep it simple, it negates that risk.
Thanks for the download of Ensley...I just got her I'm gonna play with her today.. You did so well on that picture of the girl on the red shirt where'd you get those clothes?
To be honest - I can't quite remember where the clothing came from!
@@RaukoDaz3D OK thx!
Something you haven't mentioned in your videos about lights is noise and render times. Emissive lights, especially certain shapes, are noisier. Flat shapes like rectangles not so much but small round or cylindrical shapes are very noisy for me. Point lights are the next noisiest and spotlights least. The noisier the scene the longer the render. Sometimes the noise persists even after the render is done so you either mess with the default settings to give the engine enough time to finish or figure out a way to reduce noise and fireflys.
It's not always easy to figure out what is creating the noise. Right now I am working on a scene with no water and little glass in the scene but very noisy. The light sources are off camera so I thought it was easier to just add point lights for less noise and quicker render times.
I've found that noise comes from the lack of sufficient light in the scene .. it may well LOOK well lit but there's probably not enough direct light in the areas where the grain is appearing and so it takes an age for that area / image to fully render out the grain ..
I won't get into all the detail here as I am planning a couple of videos .. not necessarilly focusing on grain .. but the differences between direct and indirect light in scenes and pros and cons of each .. of which grain will be covered .. so keep your eyes open for that!
Hi Rauko. Thanks a lot for all your tutorials. Not just this one.
Thanks mdsommer - hope you're getting something out of them!
Really great tutorial, thank you for sharing.
You're welcome Sunbreaker - glad you got something from it!
Other than not getting the complete black out (had to use "Dome Only" to replicate, don't know why), a very follow-able tutorial. I am at the point where I am starting to make scenes. Many of the locations have florescent lights and I was getting quite frustrated. This should help solve many of the issues. My thanks, sir.
Hey Heegaherger - thanks, I'm glad the video helped you out .. As for the black out .. do you mean during scene construction everything was black? if so, go to Window > Preview Lights and turn that "off" - so the icon is NOT highlighted .. and see if that helps (on something other than Dome Only) .. or was it during Render?
@@RaukoDaz3D I was referring to scene construction. I can get the black out while using a camera, but not in perspective. Perspective still has light. Not as presented, but I can work with that. I definitely will be working my way through your library.
@@Heegaherger Yeah, it's definitely the Preview Lights then if it's ok in Perspective camera!
Thanks for this comment and thank you Rauko for the answer. Couldn't be bothered to google the problem, stumbled upon this comment and it helped.
Thanks for the tuts!
The first setting I almost always change in emissives is the luminance units, to watts. It's just a personal thing.
Of the many uses for emissives/mesh lights: lets say you're using sun/sky (instead of hdri). That means you can't use "normal" daz lights (spotlights and the like). But emissives will work.
Emissives can be hard to position, but there are ways to parent cameras to emissive objects so you can orient and position them like you would with spotlights (Callad created suchlike a long time ago). A good tutorial on how to do that would probably be helpful for your subscribers!
Yeah, thanks for those little additions .. I did mean to mention the luminance units in the video but forgot about it when I got there .. :) ..
Brilliant Mate!
You're welcome!
Really well explained without making it sound to complicated. I can't wait to try it out.
Thanks N M .. glad you managed to get something out it!
Excellent vid
Thanks mate!
Funny you talk about closing in on 1k and already your closing in on 2k. Subbed and, I think Daz3d would be WAY more popular if they put out Great informative videos like you do! Thanks.
Hey BoB - yeah, it's funny how things start to speed up the more subs you get! I'm not complaining and thanks for your kind words!
Really good video mate very informative.! I wonder in the future if you would consider doing a tutorial on the hdr reflective surface trick you did used in your Freja 8 video? Your explanations are always so clear and easy to follow.
Hey Dan - thanks for that. As for the "Freja 8" trick? You just watched it .. 😄 ..
In that video I just created an emissive plane primitive instead of the sphere I created in the first part of this video .. and then, instead of leaving the plane white as I did with the sphere, I instead added the texture I'd used for the HDRI global light to the Emissive Color of the plane in the same way I added the Simpsons to the TV Emissive Color in the second part of this video ..
Does that make sense?? If not, let me know ...
@@RaukoDaz3D ah I think so I was doing it a bit wrong! Thanks and keep up the good work
@@xTERRORMANx Thanks, Dan .. as I say, just fire away with any questions you might have and I'll do my best to answer them.
Can you make a tutorial on how you made ENSELY LOOK LIKE THAT....did u use morphs on her face?
I don't think I did anything to Ensley in respect of morphs .. but I don't generally fiddle with the models I use in videos
Great walkthrough on how to make emissive objects and surfaces. My only suggestion would be to explore different luminance units. The default cd/m^2 (candles per meter squared, I think) is far too low to be practical for most scenes unless you really turn down the exposure value. I often find kcd/m^2 works better for tweaking values.
Hey thanks Sean .. I did actually plan to touch upon the luminence units during the video but .. forgot when I got to it .. 😄 .. Ultimately, it doesn't effect the final render but, as you say, it is sometimes more practical to use a different unit and allows for a lot of fine tuning!
I love your tutorials. They're very well paced and explained. With every one I see the title and think: 'No need, I know all about that', and then I watch and I always pick up valuable information I had no idea about. Keep up the good work. BTW, how do you get hair looking so nice and natural. Mine always looks like straw. Is it your rendering and lighting techniques, or do you advise to go for the better quality (i.e. more expensive) hair items?
Thanks LazyPlucker - we're never too old or long in the tooth to be always learning .. I'm glad you got something out of it!
How do you keep the image from being grainy? I’ve been having issues with my images coming out grainy in more dimly lit scenes? Is that my card or is it something I’m doing in lighting the scene? Love your stuff.
Gazillions of iterations! The less light in the scene - the more iterations you need to get rid of the grain (or, more accurately, to complete the render to a sufficient level the grain is gone).
Yes, that means GPU power. The more you've got. The quicker and cleaner the image will be.
If you don't have the grunt under the hood - you could always use the denoiser and sacrifice a little overall quality for speed and time. Check out the following video if you haven’t already : ua-cam.com/video/4opzWycb0i8/v-deo.html
@ I have a NVIdia 3070 Ti on my laptop. I have the 4090 on my desktop, but I’m not home right now. I got it upto over 3600 iterations last night, but it still looks grainy. Right now I need to upgrade my hard drive and add a second one, but i can’t do much about the GPU
@ I’ve been using the denoiser built into the render engine. I post in Photoshop but even that denoiser has issues dealing with the graininess or I’m not using it right.
@@Mudwyrm a 4090 should be perfectly fine - I have one myself .. depending on the resolution I can push out 30,000 iterations in a hour in 4k at 10:13 canvas ratio .. full 4k (16:9 ratio) - I can do 15,000 iterations - which is more than plenty for getting rid of grain.
What resolution are you rendering in? For me 3600 iterations would take about 15 minutes render time at the resolution and screen size mentioned above ...
So what resolution and screen size are you rendering in as you should be getting more than 3600 iterations before you're wanting to stop rendering. If that 3600 is taking hours then something isn't quite right (unless you're rendering in a huge resolution)
@@Mudwyrm The denoiser should get rid of grain - that's it's purpose. If you're still seeing grain then something doesn't seem right
very nice thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Very nice render. Looking forward to the next vid. I've been using colored spotlights to iluminate character to simulate the light from the TV. Works okay but looks a bit un natural
Hey, Harrison, thanks. Yeah, we don't encounter a spotlight very often in everyday life .. maybe on stage in a theatre or nightclub or a studio if you're a fashion model .. but everyday life? Very rarely .. and so adding direct lights such as a spot light into a "realistic" scene will be unnatural. Our brains are clever enough to realise that "something isn't right" even if we aren't consciously aware of what that "something" is .. If we absolutley have to add a direct light then their use has to be very subtle, not as a primary light and it has to be consistant with the environment light we're using ..
If your into Neon Noir (Like Blade Runner) Iray Emissive lights are gonna be your buddy. Along with carefully adjusting the depth of field in the camera and adding some smoke/steam, you can get some epic results.....it takes some serious gpu horsepower though($$$).....
Yeah, I can imagine it would take a bit of HP .. I have always liked that style, so I might give it a go someime ... 👍
@@RaukoDaz3D Btw, your shiny new Rtx3090 has me jonesing for a new rig....I am looking for any excuse to pull the trigger on some GPU HORESPWER!!!
@@RaukoDaz3D Also who is model in your opening animation?
@@Peter_Stoops She's a slightly modified (used a different skin) Paisley for Teen Josie .. there'll be links up in the description for her and all her bits.
@@Peter_Stoops You don't need an excuse .. just go and do it ..... (disclaimer : If you go broke and lose your house, car and dog as a result of this over excuberant advice .. it's not my fault!! 😜)
I learned a lot from this video but I would really like to know how you fixed the image on tv screen from being completely overblown.
I cheated in this example .. I rendered the scene as normal (with the overblown screen) .. and then spot rendered the TV without any emission before Photoshop-ping them together ..
You dont need to go to the content tab to get the iray uber shader, you can also get it from the surfaces tab, presets tab, sadly my daz has destroyed this function and if I select any shader from this list it thinks I'm loading a scene and wants me to save and delete the current scene..
Yeah, there's a couple of places .. but I thought I'd just keep things simple .. 😀
A very interesting tutorial, really simple and very well done ! Thank you so much. I just dont understand how you did to have the "simpson" picture on the screen on the final render. Best regards from Paris ! 😀😀
Hey there, thanks .... When I used the Simpsons image as an emissive light .. it completely washed out the image itself .. so, I just re-added the image in Photoshop after the render was complete.
@@RaukoDaz3D My Gosh ! Easy and efficient ! Thank you again for your help and all your work !👍👌
thank u
You're welcome!
How did you set the simpsons to the base color? Did you have an image from the show saved on your pc and added it kinda like adding an hdri?
Yes, exactly that .. think I puilled it off Google images and added it to the TV Surfaces under Emission
Thanks. As usual I got a load of tips watching this tutorial. In some other tutorials I've also seen them use Luminance Units. You're not using them, are you? Is there a reason behind it?
Thanks, Ingemar .. as far as I'm aware, the Luminance Units (and I did mean to mention in the video! Doh!) are just the units of measurement of your Luminance slider .. they don't actively change anything other than how far up or down the scale the Luminance slider has to go to get the results you want. Think of it as choosing to measure in cms rather than inches .. it just a personal preference really .. Some of the numbers on the Luminance slider can get quite high so sometimes it's better to change to a different measurement unit to make them more readable .. it can be useful, also, if you're trying to replicate a real world light souce and you only have it's luminance value in a particular unit .. just switch to that unit in Daz and enter the number ..
Loved this tutorial! I just have a question, let's say that you didn't use the tv to light the front of the model, how else would you light it? I usually have a scene where my model is facing away from the light and I never find a way to light the front of it correctly.
In the video above .. I wouldn't have .. I'd have thrown the render in the bin and done something else!!! 😮 .. No seriously .. a few things ..
Firstly, an environment is as much an important part of the render as the lights in the scene .. I tend to think too many people put their model into a particular environment because it will be a "cool background" to the model .. The TV is in the scene BECAUSE it's the primary light scource .. I wouldn't have done the scene without the TV .. so firstly, think how you can use the environment to light your models .. or, if there's nothing obvious, can you add something into the scene (which could be there, but isn't) to help light the model? (no! not a spotlight!!)
Secondly, if there's nothing obvious there already or that can be added .. if using a HDRI as the primary light source .. raise the Environmental Map slider in the render setting .. give what light there is more intensity to that when it bounces around the scene and eventually falls on your models front .. it has more brightness .. If you have to raise the environment map slider to silly levels, then do so if you need to. Now this is a balancing act .. the more you raise the intensity, the more the light behind the model will increase and could start to wash out .. so, you need to experiment with it ..
Thirdly, you could place a white glossy plane in front of the character (off camera) .. to bounce the light from behind the model back onto the front of the model (like what a real world photographer would do in outdoor shots, for instance).
There's a couple of other methods .. but, you can try these for now .. this is just my personal opinion here - but try and avoid plonking a great big spotlight in front as you'll wash out all the good work the realistic environmental light has done .. In most "real" scenes, unlike a "photo shoot" scene in a studio .. Spotlights are artificial in a nature and will produce an artificial light that won't be consistant with the rest of the light in the scene ..
Does that help??
@@RaukoDaz3D Thank you so much, I really appreciate your answer, I will for sure try your suggestions, and I can't wait for the next tutorial!
@@RaukoDaz3D Hi! Thanks again for the tips, i spent all day trying out various setups with lights, and i tryed the glossy plane but it doesn't really work (or i'm doing something wrong with it) when the light is too far away or too dim, so i was wondering if i could use a plane with the same hdri that i'm using in the scene as emissive? Sorry but I'm really new to daz T_T
@@virtlersna5414 Yes!!! That's one of the "other" options that I was going to mention but my original reply was getting too long and I felt including this option also would have ended up me writing a book as it might have been a bit long and drawn out to explain it .. .. :) .. if you check out this speed build video .. ua-cam.com/video/PIiYC_8OA9Y/v-deo.html .. I do exactly that sometime through the video ..
@@RaukoDaz3D Amazing thank you! I'm learning so much thanks to you and your videos!
New sub, great guide!
Thanks Cory, glad you're on board! 👍
Any chance a tutorial of how to deal with insane high poly count hair? I having some problem with some character who literally crashong and burning my renders because of it.
Hey Darcy .. there's nothing much to be done in truth .. the only option you have is, with the hair selected, go into Parameters > Mesh Resolution and lower the sliders on "View SubD level" and "Render SubD level" down to 0 (or as low as your system can handle) and turn the Resolution Level to "Base" if that is set to somthing else. See if that improves things for you.
And that's about it really .. there is an old app on the Daz store called "decimator" or somesuch which says it cuts the polygon count on models - but last time I looked it was $100 .. too expensive for me to check whether it actually works or not with recent Daz versions ..
@@RaukoDaz3D i found a way, i turned the line tesselation way down, now its working.
@@1986Hikaru Ahh .. you were talking about strand hair .. when you said "poly count" I assumed you meant normal average hair .. but yeah, the line tesselation is more or less strand hairs version of SubD .. Glad you got it sorted!
I haven't Emission in the Sphere menu!
It won't be on the Sphere menu but on the Surfaces tab .. select the Sphere .. Go to the Surfaces tab .. and you'll see Emission .. click on it and you'll see Emission Color .. click that and choose any non-black color.
You wouldn't need to crank up the Luminance slider to unreal values if you set the EV (exposure value) to a real world value before starting to light the scene.
she is 🔥 🥵 🥞 'pancakes
that lamp doesn't even work like a real lamp. I have a lamp like that, and when I turn it on the
whole room lights up not just near the wall...Daz is totally inaccurate with handling lighting the way it would work in real life.
The problem probably isn't the lamp but the transparency settings on the lamp shade .. it's probably so opaque as to not let light pass through it - only from above and below where there's nothing blocking it. If I'd increased the transparency on the shade it would have let more light flood into the room like a "normal" real life lamp.
@@RaukoDaz3D That makes sense, I wasn't thinking about it from that perspective. Sorry if I misunderstood.