You completely answered every question I had after discovering my two vents were, A) Vented into the attic, and B) not hooked to any tubing at all, and completely blocked by insulation...Thanks for a great and straight to the point video!!
I am very surprised there is not more mold present. I've seen this issue a hundred times and typically the whole cavity is black. Installing an exit at the roof and insulating the exhaust hose is definitely the way to go. I can also tell the Insulation is way too low and would benefit in air sealing it before topping it up. Great explanation.
If the cavity is molded a bit or black....how is it fixed ? Yes, properly vent the exhaust ...but how is the mold area taken care of ?. thanks for your response
What if ten years later you learn that they never installed any kind of ducting and has been sending the noisture into an attic with poor ventilation. Improper installation of a wall furnace causes the air to go from the attic into the living room anytime the bathroom fan is on or the wind blows. After 7 to 8 years, it learned the mold has been the source of a decade worth debilitating health complications.
So far, so good! I installed this fan yesterday. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I've been watching a continuous radon monitor in my house for about a week, and the levels have been running between 4.5 and 7.9 pCi/L. Shortly after I installed this fan, the radon level started dropping, and in less than 24 hours since I installed it, the level is now 1.9. My basement is approximately 2,000 square feet. Total home square footage above basement is approximately 4,000 square feet. The noise level so far is very quiet. Mine is installed indoors, so I had to purchase a cord and connector. If I have any problems later, I'll update my review. But for now, I'm very pleased with it.Update after 48 hours: Using a constant monitor, my radon is now fluctuating between 0.38 and 0.45 pCi/L. I've moved the monitor to my basement and am getting a constant 0.43 reading. After 24 hours, and when I know the weather will be safe, I'll place the monitor outside for about 12 hours. I'm thinking that the 0.38 to 0.45 may be the outside "ambient" radon level. I'm using this monitor (purchased from Amazon): Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223
Thanks my house was built in 84 and nothing exhausts to the outside except for the vent pipes 😳 I'll have to go look where my bathroom fan is venting to??? I'm guessing the attic
Whooo! The loft venting bathroom extractor I am correcting is in an annoying house with no gable end, a square mushroom 🍄 shape roof. I DEFINITELY don't want to introduce a hole to a 100 year old roof and the soffit is six inches at most and vents in to the rest of the house. There is however a chimney! Can I vent in to that?
Gable venting is ok, but insulated flex, in the attic, will condense and fill the flex with water. Agree the soffit is poor choice. The roof is ideal, get a roofer to install the vent. It is short, quick, and cheep.
Or if a condenser was added to the vent in the attic that drains in to the soil stack or radiator header tank (which presumably had an overflow pipe right?) then might the loft not benefit from intermittently being warmed by now dry air. Unless of course the condenser merely reduces the moisture content warm air should dry any moisture that condensed in the loft from the use of the unconditioned extracted bathroom air.
They are designed to be terminated through gable vents or roofing goose necks that come with air tight adapters. If a roofer installs the goose neck correctly you dont have to worry about it leaking.
You should always get a couple of estimates from local and trusted contractors so you have something tangible to present to the seller for negotiation purposes. There's many, many variables that come into play, but I'd say a guesstimate of $175 - $300 per fan.
This sounds like a dumb question. My vent is also placed at the soffit. Can I put an elbow out from the soffit vent and face it away from the house? Would this be as efficient?
Not a dumb question at all! Your upper vents are constantly "pulling air" from those lower soffit vents, in order to keep your attic well ventilated. A short elbow is not really going to help much or do anything as the conditioned/moisture-laden air from your shower steam will likely linger around those soffit vents and still get "sucked" right back in to the building envelope. If you extended it out further, maybe, however, it's going to be an eyesore. Hope this helps & thanks for watching!
@@nwohiohomeinspector thanks for the response. My house is brick all the way up and i dont want to core thru brick and I agree with you about less holes on the roof. I dont want to drill up the roof neither.
Run the piping on top of the ceiling joists under the insulation or run an insulated duct to the gable end. Cut the hole out and install a bath vent hood w/damper. I wish there was a way to post pictures/graphics.
@@nwohiohomeinspector You can post pictures to www.imgur.com and comment with links - I also am unclear I guess. It may be because I've never seen the top of a bathroom fan but I am unclear on how to connect the piping to the ceiling fan itself.
Wait you can't use a 45 degree tap to connect into an existing pipe? Why not? The pipe sizing up there would have more than enough CFM exhaust capacity to handle two fans running at the same time. Please clarify.
I wouldn't vent into a ventilated soffit if you don't have to. If necessary, I'd keep at least three to four feet away. I have another YT video about soffit venting you can check out.
@@nwohiohomeinspector thank you for your response. Also...if the area is molded a bit or black....how is it fixed ? Yes, properly vent the exhaust ...but how is the mold area taken care of ?. thanks for your response
Yea it doesnt actually state that anywhere in the code. It just needs to be terminated outside amd not be closer than 3 feet to any opening or intake system on the house. Aswell a backdraft damper must be used
You completely answered every question I had after discovering my two vents were, A) Vented into the attic, and B) not hooked to any tubing at all, and completely blocked by insulation...Thanks for a great and straight to the point video!!
Mine was the same way
Same!
@@mike54996 me 3
I am very surprised there is not more mold present. I've seen this issue a hundred times and typically the whole cavity is black. Installing an exit at the roof and insulating the exhaust hose is definitely the way to go. I can also tell the Insulation is way too low and would benefit in air sealing it before topping it up. Great explanation.
If the cavity is molded a bit or black....how is it fixed ? Yes, properly vent the exhaust ...but how is the mold area taken care of ?. thanks for your response
What if ten years later you learn that they never installed any kind of ducting and has been sending the noisture into an attic with poor ventilation. Improper installation of a wall furnace causes the air to go from the attic into the living room anytime the bathroom fan is on or the wind blows. After 7 to 8 years, it learned the mold has been the source of a decade worth debilitating health complications.
So far, so good! I installed this fan yesterday. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I've been watching a continuous radon monitor in my house for about a week, and the levels have been running between 4.5 and 7.9 pCi/L. Shortly after I installed this fan, the radon level started dropping, and in less than 24 hours since I installed it, the level is now 1.9. My basement is approximately 2,000 square feet. Total home square footage above basement is approximately 4,000 square feet. The noise level so far is very quiet. Mine is installed indoors, so I had to purchase a cord and connector. If I have any problems later, I'll update my review. But for now, I'm very pleased with it.Update after 48 hours: Using a constant monitor, my radon is now fluctuating between 0.38 and 0.45 pCi/L. I've moved the monitor to my basement and am getting a constant 0.43 reading. After 24 hours, and when I know the weather will be safe, I'll place the monitor outside for about 12 hours. I'm thinking that the 0.38 to 0.45 may be the outside "ambient" radon level. I'm using this monitor (purchased from Amazon): Corentium Home Radon Detector by Airthings 223
Very informative. Thanks!
Thanks my house was built in 84 and nothing exhausts to the outside except for the vent pipes 😳 I'll have to go look where my bathroom fan is venting to??? I'm guessing the attic
Whooo! The loft venting bathroom extractor I am correcting is in an annoying house with no gable end, a square mushroom 🍄 shape roof. I DEFINITELY don't want to introduce a hole to a 100 year old roof and the soffit is six inches at most and vents in to the rest of the house. There is however a chimney! Can I vent in to that?
Great…but I thought this video would show me how.
This is so important to avoid mold build up. It’s( mold or mildew)an expensive thing to remediate.
Gable venting is ok, but insulated flex, in the attic, will condense and fill the flex with water. Agree the soffit is poor choice. The roof is ideal, get a roofer to install the vent. It is short, quick, and cheep.
If the fan is sized properly and the insulated duct runs straight out (not uphill), condensation shouldn't be an issue.
LOL nothing about roofing is cheap.
Or if a condenser was added to the vent in the attic that drains in to the soil stack or radiator header tank (which presumably had an overflow pipe right?) then might the loft not benefit from intermittently being warmed by now dry air. Unless of course the condenser merely reduces the moisture content warm air should dry any moisture that condensed in the loft from the use of the unconditioned extracted bathroom air.
Great info. Ill take it.
Could you run it to the ridge vent rather then the gable?
Not a good idea.
@@nwohiohomeinspector why?
They are designed to be terminated through gable vents or roofing goose necks that come with air tight adapters. If a roofer installs the goose neck correctly you dont have to worry about it leaking.
@@toomanynarcissistshere2102you’ll rot the wood around the ridge vent
What does it cost to correct this issue? I have this situation in a house I am buying.
You should always get a couple of estimates from local and trusted contractors so you have something tangible to present to the seller for negotiation purposes. There's many, many variables that come into play, but I'd say a guesstimate of $175 - $300 per fan.
Thank you! I am getting a local estimate also. @@nwohiohomeinspector
This sounds like a dumb question. My vent is also placed at the soffit. Can I put an elbow out from the soffit vent and face it away from the house? Would this be as efficient?
Not a dumb question at all! Your upper vents are constantly "pulling air" from those lower soffit vents, in order to keep your attic well ventilated. A short elbow is not really going to help much or do anything as the conditioned/moisture-laden air from your shower steam will likely linger around those soffit vents and still get "sucked" right back in to the building envelope. If you extended it out further, maybe, however, it's going to be an eyesore. Hope this helps & thanks for watching!
@@nwohiohomeinspector thanks for the response. My house is brick all the way up and i dont want to core thru brick and I agree with you about less holes on the roof. I dont want to drill up the roof neither.
How do you vent into the gable ends?
Run the piping on top of the ceiling joists under the insulation or run an insulated duct to the gable end. Cut the hole out and install a bath vent hood w/damper. I wish there was a way to post pictures/graphics.
@@nwohiohomeinspector You can post pictures to www.imgur.com and comment with links - I also am unclear I guess. It may be because I've never seen the top of a bathroom fan but I am unclear on how to connect the piping to the ceiling fan itself.
Wait you can't use a 45 degree tap to connect into an existing pipe? Why not? The pipe sizing up there would have more than enough CFM exhaust capacity to handle two fans running at the same time. Please clarify.
www.familyhandyman.com/project/use-an-in-line-fan-to-vent-two-bathrooms/
nice video 👍 or whatever
I have no gable end on my ranch. Soffit vent is the best option? It seems like a hole in the roof is way worse and more likely to let more moisture in
How far away from the soffit vent should the exhaust fan vent ?
I wouldn't vent into a ventilated soffit if you don't have to. If necessary, I'd keep at least three to four feet away. I have another YT video about soffit venting you can check out.
@@nwohiohomeinspector thank you for your response. Also...if the area is molded a bit or black....how is it fixed ? Yes, properly vent the exhaust ...but how is the mold area taken care of ?. thanks for your response
Just needs cleaned off. This stuff works well: www.rmrsolutions.com/products/rmr-86-pro?variant=48382662863
Dang that's a lot of mold!!! Nothing to mess with and they need to fix that before it gets worse!
Unfortunately your not allowed by code to exhaust into the gable
What? What code? Why on earth wouldn't you be able to vent out a gable end?
Well Florida code it has to be directly exhausted outside not in a gable, not into a soffit, not into a ridgeline, but directly
@@rogerchampjr933 Show me. Where else are you going to vent it if you can't vent it through a gable end, besides the roof?
Yea it doesnt actually state that anywhere in the code. It just needs to be terminated outside amd not be closer than 3 feet to any opening or intake system on the house. Aswell a backdraft damper must be used
please stop saying "or whatever".
Alrighty then, thx for the tip Pat!
And "um". Other than that, good video
Pat Glenn “ what ever”
@@nwohiohomeinspector Dude say whatever as much as you want. Everyone's a critic.
Next time say whatevs brah