YOU ARE A LEGEND MATE GOD BLESS YOU 😂 I was on my diagnostic for 2 hours doing resets and non stop trying to figure out why my w222 s350 went into limp mode, bunch of air mass sensor faults … just as I was about to give up I found your video and gave it a try… FOUND 1 OF THE FUSES BLOWN, CHANGED IT AND EVERYTHING WAS PERFECT AGAIN. Thank you man
UPDATE- Fuse was blowing because of swirl motor sensor connector blown, was quoted over £900 for new motor and fitting. So I just ordered a bypass sensor connector and cleaned everything up for £15 saved my self a lot of money and car runs better then before !
I have the same problem like you did mate can i please know which fuse you changed picture or name. Seeing your comment rassured me alot. I was once told its the ecu that needs updating then i took it to another mercedes specialist i was told if it was my ecu i wont be able to start the car, he suggested i shud have my dpf clean which i was suppose to book it in thursday then i came across @albanian fix vidéo and your comment 😊😊
@@papychulo2332 I went to Mercedes specialist and he pointed out the fuse was burning from the swirl motor so if you disconnect the swirl motor and change the fuse it will come off limp mode the fuse is number 15 blue in the engine bay top section middle one
@@papychulo2332 depends from car, most common it's fuse 22 or 24 in fuse box under the bonnet. Number 15 on it it's just its amp value. If you have several of MAF sensors, swirl flap motor and turbo actuator fails in the same time - it's probably swirl flap motor malfunction. Sometimes there is just need to clean up the socket from oil, if no - new actuator or bypass. Sometimes poor wire loop connection, sometimes just new fuse only works👍
I've git the very similar issue on my 2012 GL BLUETEC. It was the 15 amp fuse...changed that and immediately the vehicle started acting like before. Thanks Zoltan
At first when i clicked on the video i was like nice dervish shaqa song and than opened the hood and found that the fuse had blown. Faleminderit shume, suksese!!
Fantastic! I had an auxiliary battery malfunction. I replaced but car went into LIMP MODE I sort help from mechanic who used his computer to turn off engine light but still in limp mode until I watched your wonderful clip. It has solved my problem. Did not know what I was doing but changed that same fuse? probably luck!
Hi, I have the same problem, do you think the aux battery could be what caused the fuse to blow or something? How is the car after replacing the fuse, did you have the problem return? Cheers!
On a B 200 cdi 246, where the tester is saying the control flap is mailfunctioning, is that the valve that you are refering to, or could this also be related to the fuse or a sensor. Up hill its slow, but once its in 3rd gear it ramps up the power fast. Down hill its ramping up the power decently.
Hi I have w212 1.8cgi My car has no code no check light .i did scan many times but stilo there is no code. Problem is When i drive normal its perfect revving 5000 rpm shifting smoothly. When i kickdown it stuck on 5500 rpm in any gear and won't shift bcz car trying to go 6500 plus but stuck ok 5500 rpm. I changed the fuel filter pump gear oil engine oil cat clean new plugs everything but still same .can you plz guide
good finding and thanks for the video. Do you ever had issue with NOx sensors? mine is showing fault code 2201 on 3 sensors.....how can all 3 go wrong together?
Mine is also may same problem but no any sign display yet. I found the Map sensor hose, changeover valve switch hose of vacuum connections is missing. I may follow your video for solve the issue. Thanks
Excuse me, I have a 2012 Benz C300 Recedes which is giving me codes that are P0174 and P0171, and the fault that I see is that when I drive the revolutions they fluctuate between 2 to 2.5k, which do you think could be bad? I hope you can help me, thank you
My car has been stuck on second gear and all braking lights are on abs etc . Speem Meter not working This is second time has happen after changing gear selector !! Anything else you suggest that can fix my w202 diesel 2000 ? Thank you
The most lucky scenario it's just random fuse blow :D But if it blew again: If you have several of MAF sensors, swirl flap motor and turbo actuator fails in the same time (like on video) - it's probably swirl flap motor malfunction. Sometimes there is just need to clean up the socket from oil, if no - new actuator or bypass. Less often it might be poor wire loop connection on the plug. Regards 👍
Pershendetje Shqipe, kam e 350 cdi 4 matic, kam problem me senzorin e këndit të vdekur, drita e verdhë qëndron e ndezur gjithmon ne pasqyre, me kan thën ktu ne zvicer qe eshte extra nji cenzor per kendin e vdekur qe duhet bler i ri, sepse jan te ndishem nga uji e duhet nderruar. qa duhet te bej sips teje? Faleminderit shum
Unë nuk kam patur ndonjë problem me sensorët por me ç’farë kam dëgjuar, trekëndshi i verdhë i pasqyrave i kanë sensorët tek prapakolpi, 1 në çdo krahë e montuar nga brënda. Kur bie shumë shi edhe mua më ndizen trekëndshat edhe kur thahen fiken vet sepse siç duket futet ujiti për një moment. Shiko se mos ke dhe ti ndonjë lagështirë brënda atyre apo pisllik, baltë që ka ngec, mbase një pastrim i mirë mund ti rregullojë, përndryshe shiko mos ke ndonjë siguresë të djegur ose vet sensoret mund të jenë djeg. Janë shumë të thjeshta për tu ndërruar por duhet te kesh kompjuterin STAR të Benzit ose një kompjuter tjetër shumë të mirë që arrinë të lexojë dhe të regjistroj të gjitha modularet e sensorëve, përndryshe nuk do punojnë. Nqs arrin ti rregullosh më shkruaj këtu si ja dole sepse ndihmon dhe të tjerët që lexojnë.
I have a Mercedes CLASS C 220 DIESEL 4 MATIC YEAR 2017. My car is shutting down randomy especially when I giveca quick acceleration. Try many things without results even changed fuel pump, check the motor wheel and different sensor. Can u please give a tip to resolve. Do u think it is electrical issue ?
You probably have heard this a 100 times but this kind of issue is mostly related to the camshaft position sensor. I would definitely check that out first.
I have a 250 CDI W212 2011 and it had problems with dpf pressure sensor and DPF. I replaced the sensor and cleaned the DPF but it still won't go over 3k RPM.
Then it’s time to look at the turbo actuator. If the actuator doesn’t open or close the wastegate how it’s supposed to, it’s also a reason why you’re not getting boost.
@@AlbanianFix I didn't try that cuz when i turned it on right away and started revving it it regenrated itself and i was holding over 4k rpm for about 20 seconds and tested it goes 210 kmh no problem
Përshendetje vlla kam nje Benz viti 2008 e320 bluetec me ka ndezur check engine edhe kodi esht 2513 check component m55 ke ndo nje ide cfar lloj pjese mund ta ket fajin
Si je shqipe? Ky kod flet per nje motor elektrik te vogel qe gjendet poshte turbos. Ky motor i vogel hap dhe mbyll rruget e ajrit. Eshte shum tipike qe ky motor te prishet shpesh. Duket si kjo ketu poshte: tinyurl.com/328etae3 Mund ta ndrrosh por do te kushtoj pak sa sepse eshte gjith ajo pune per te arritur deri tek kjo pjese ose per momentin mund ta ç'aktivizosh si motor me nje "stil" ne menyre qe kompjuteri i makines ECU ti duket sikur motori eshte ne rregull dhe punon. Kete lloj "stili" dhe menyra si ta ç'aktivizosh ka me mijera video ne youtube. Nje nga ato video qe te tregon si ta besh eshte kjo ketu poshte: ua-cam.com/video/LtMibd1bHs0/v-deo.html Ne minuten e 14 e 25 sekonda te tregon shume çarte se si ta besh kete procedure. Por te duhet te blesh nje nga ato rezistencat e vogla qe te besh çarkun elektrik se ndryshe nuk punon. Kjo metod eshte vetem momentale derisa te blesh nje motor elektrik te ri.
Hi I have mercedes s350 bluetec 2012.problem started two week ago .we were going uphill suddenly loose power .no boost it was running but no boost .turn it off and run normal again .when ever we try to accelerate then it happens but if we don't push hard then no problem. One technician said it's show low boost but he didn't find anything problem then he told change maf sensor .any suggestion will be greatful
Well in my case it was just a blown fuse. If everything checks out good on your end then I believe that it most likely is the DPF which is probably blocked. If your car does a lot city driving then I would strongly suggest to do a run on the highway. The DPF has a self-cleaning process called Regeneration. This process only happens if your car is driving nonstop about 55-65 mph for about 30-40 minutes on a highway with minimal traffic. If you live in the city with a lot of stop and go, I would strongly suggest to do highway runs at least once a week.
Hello Albanian Fix, I wonder if you know anything about this error on a Mercedes W212 „90B387 Electric Heater Booster 1 Has a Malfunction. The message is missing. DTC Status: Current and stored“ kind regards Yusuf
That's a good video. I have problem that i think maf sensors are showing little too low values, and it's causing frequent DPF regenerations. the sooth value goes up fast, even thou exhaust back pressure or pressure difference sensor over dpf is not. if I disconnect one maf sensor, start it three times to get the engine light, after that the sooth cumulation is alot slower, and actually if the sooth value is 5grams, it will calculate and the value goes down. it probably uses different math to do the calculation. but it also causes usually limp mode with no power. I had one Y pipe with the second maf broken and it was perfect, as it kept the slow calculation, but still no limp mode, so power was full. I have reader where you can calibrate the sensors, so the ecu knows they are changed. but not sure should this be done with empty DPF or full. I think EGR removal would fix the issue also, but these have pulse wide modulated maf's, and the car knows if the airflow doesn't go down when egr opens. so it cannot be removed without programming.
I have the same problem with my 2013 sprinter with same engine,can you tell me what's the description for that fuse since the sprinter has no fuse box under the hood.thanks
Hi mate, I have an s class 320 lwb and my issue is when I put my foot down it feels boosted but then 5 mins later go to do it but no boost and no check engine light, all seems fine apart from lack of boost. I can turn the car off and on and goes back to normal with boost. Any ideas ?
Shqipe a mund te me ndihmosh shpejtsia e makines time eshte dobesuar edhe e270 w211 2003 kur ngas me shpejtsi me dhezet check engine light drita e motorit dhe ka forc me shum kur e shkymi makinen dhe e dhezi prap ngadalsohet ndonjeher mndodh kshtu ndonjeher ska asnji dallim edhe kur ngas shpejt njejt esht vetura edhe nuk esht nregull me shpejtsite flm shummm
Ka shum gjera perse nuk ka shpejtesi por një nga problemet kryesore te ksaj natyre ka te bej me EGR Valve Shiko me posht: ua-cam.com/video/zyRUG-ry_SU/v-deo.html
Une mendoj qe valvula e shkarkimit nuk hapet sa duhet ne menyre qe turboja te rrotullohet me fuqi te plote. Shkurt muhabeti gjeta nje video qe ta shikosh dhe tregon fiks per cfare e kam fjalen se nuk shpjegohet dot me mesazhe. Bej ato dy teste siç e beri dhe ky ne video ketu poshte: ua-cam.com/video/4SieELJTCBU/v-deo.html
I have a question about my benz E220 2004 150hp/.. why doesn't it goes more than 3k rpm and 140km/h maxx .. no power at all lees than half power.. have cleaned all the air tubes and filter still same... thx for reply 🤙
Besmir si je? Ky lloj problemi eshte shum i gjithanshem dhe kjo video tregon nje nga “solutions” te mundshme. Me mir ble nje aparat OBD2 Scanner dhe shiko ça kodesh te nxjerr edhe pastaj tu pa tu bo...
@@AlbanianFix mir flm.. faleminderit per pergjigjen, menoj qe qashtu duhet mja bo se e kam pas makinen te do servise po skan mujt me gjet se ku o problemi kshtu qe e kom per qefi e duna me kqyr me bo zgjidhje vet .. Flm shum
Patriot si je a je mire kam ni mercedes 2018 c class kalon makina limp mode po nuk nxjerr code asigjo e fik e ndez mer shpejtesi prap nuk ndez asigjo met tregu ca problemi Ka a mundesh te ma shpjegosh te lutem
Si t'kam vlla? Është pak problem kur makina nuk të tregon se ç'probem ka. Mos është gjë e modifikume makina nga ana xhenerike? Limp mode aktivizohet kur një ose disa pjesë të motorrit ose të transmisionit nuk punojnë siç duhet, psh. ndonjë sensor, siguresë, kabllat elektrike ose elektronike nuk punojnë ose kanë shkëputje etj. Në rastin tënd ty nuk të del asnjë shenjë që do të thotë makinës i është bërë ndonjë modifikim ku disa sensorë janë anulluar nga ECU (truri makinës) në mënyrë që të mos ndërhyjnë tek modikimi i bërë, dhe ato sensorë nuk japin më shenjë kur vërtet ka diçka që nuk shkon. Nqs makina nuk ka modfikime të tilla dhe diçka ose diku tek ato pjesë apo sensorë që përmënda mësipër ti do kesh ndonjë shkëputje momentale, punë sekondash e cila vet-rregulkohet por e fut makinën në limp mode dhe nuk arrin të tregoj gjë në sistem dhe prandaj kur ti e fik dhe e ndez, makina është në rregull. Megjithatë, shko bëj një skanim makinës tek servisi sepse shumicën e rastit edhe pse nuk del gjë, skanimi mund të tregoj se ç'farë ka ndodhur me kompjuterin e makinës.
Shum flm vlla .e kam fut te komjuteri i benzit e Ka update ecu e Ka kthy nga fillimi.nuk e beri per ni muaj isha duke hec the u fut ne limp mode nuk hecte me shum se 40 e fika e ndeza normal e kam shiku gjithandej neper londer nuk nxjerr gjo e futi ni shok I im ne live data kompjuter dhe e nxori ket position off selection range valve fault .se kur ndaloj ne semafor e bon ni slip ose jerking kick .po ti shum faleminderit per replay patriot
Hello Albanian Fix, good afternoon Can You Help me in this situation please. I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit. I have already changed the sensor and filters and use only good diesel the obd always shows the same fault as before. could you give me some guidance? it makes me crazy Give me a tip Please..
@@AlbanianFix Yes, I have wiped the OBD data after replacements. after running +/- 30km I turn off the car and when restarting it shows an error on the panel and the obd accuses a past failure. Is there any way to disable this sensor or this fault?
Hi mate, thanks for the info! I’m having the same issue. When I start the car, it sometimes has no boost, as if the turbo is not working, but when I stop the car and restart it, it gets back to normal. This occasionally happens when it’s hot weather. What do you think the issue is?
Your issue sounds exactly like mines especially when it’s temperature sensitive, the sensors might need to be changed. Try this fix, hopefully it works out for you. And also try to look into the sensors itself, they may need to be replaced.
@@alexanderallen898 not as of yet, but it could be a few things. Transmission fault causing it to go into limp mode. This happens when it needs a service, or it could be a faulty turbo actuator
@@joshualerch6553 Doesn't sound like a faulty turbo actuator, if i had to bet i'd say it's 2 the MAF sensors located on the air intake housing. The both have 2 metal clips holding them in place on the top & bottom. You can try just finding the 2 sensors but you usually have to buy a whole new intake housing which includes the 2 sensors.
I came looking for some answers maybe, for my a class w177 that goes on a limp mode every time I am on the motorway. Have tried everything and asked everyone. Even changed the turbo. However, I click on the thumbnail, the video starts and I hear a legendary voice very familiar to me. Did I click wrong? Did I hear wrong? Nope! It’s a Geg Rapsod singing in the most beautiful language of the world. And then, the Red and Black flag with the Doublehead Eagle. Now, let’s watch the video.
Hi FYI... I have the same car... Yes if the fuse fails (blows -> open) this works, it is just like turning the engine off with the key but importantly just that sensor part... this is not a serious failure! However, Engine LIGHT or Limp mode -> there is another failure mode PO401 to look out for it is EGR Flow (insignificant) actually any code related to EGR flow. This means one of three things the EGR system is not working, the EGR system is clogged, or the EGR flow sensor is bad??? But no EGR flow sensor exists on the car, there are temperature sensors, and a EGR valve position or "flow" shown on the live data. What it is the ECU (computer controlling the engine) gets a signals from the two MAF sensors in the intake air horn, and an EGR valve position from the EGR valve... this is then used by the ECU to calculate an EGR flow. This is based on an algorithm that MB developed when the engine was development tested in the lab. The data the computer receives from the MAF Sensors is taken and bias with the EGR valve position data... then the algorithm in the computer calculates the EGR flow. This is important for the fuel control and emission system operation of the engine, and its exhaust system the DEF/SCR operation and control. How the MAF sensors (though they may work) figure in is if the computer senses an imbalance between the two MAF sensors, like a clogged air cleaner or inlet air system leak (mechanical) or the SENSOR signal balance (electrical) then you can get that code that goes into the limp home mode eventually. If the sensor signal balance is not a lose wire or dirty connection or failure of the sensor temperature then it is the calibration between the sensors... and you must replace the air horn of the inlet air system horn which has both sensors installed a $400 ish part. Hope this helps with trouble shooting. The other mechanical issues could be: a) EGR valve electrical connections, carbon build up preventing movement, or failure... if in the live data you don't see the percent EGR% then it could be one of these issues. Failed valve $400 ish part, connection free to $30 for new connectors, or clogging with soot hard work to remove, and clean. Or and God help you, b) EGR system clogging with soot... this requires cleaning all the piping after the EGR valve, and may involve cleaning the exhaust pipe from the main exhaust system to the EGR valve. 1b - The EGR piping and cooler is located under the inlet air piping and manifolds and horn between in the valley between cylinders... so you must remove all the inlet air system to get to it. 2b -The cross over pipe between the inlet air and EGR system is readily accessible at front of engine... start there remove, clean and also remove and clean EGR valve before thinking of replacing. 3b - Soaking those parts the pipe and the EGR valve valve chamber (not the stepper motor as that will ruin it) in diesel fuel or acetone/diesel fuel mix or acetone/oil 50/50 to 25/75 mix (either engine, transmission or best is Marvel's Mystery Oil or Sea Foam) overnight and then washing out with hot water stream works best / pressure washer works too. 4b - Do not wet the stepper motor or electrical components Protect with sealed plastic bags.... but don't submerge in any case. 5b - The inlet manifolds, cross over, and EGR cooler are best submerged but remove the temperature or emissions sensors electrical parts. Let this set overnight soaking in that cleaner. The wash out with the clear. 6b - Then you may, making sure the valves for the cylinder you are working on are closed (rotating engine over) clean each inlet port in the head, lots of UA-cams on this mess. There will be lots of carbon! or c) after you are done cleaning and realize what a pain it is... sell car! d) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for a stay in the German Concentration Camp -> b) cleaning nightmare every 25,000 to 40,000 or your engine will seize e) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for a stay changing transmission oil, including torque converter and filter every 40,000 or your transmission will fail. f) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for changing engine oil with Heavy Duty Diesel full synthetic oil 5w-40 ACEA E9, API CK-4 oil (no not the MB 229.51 or 229.52 the rest of the World failure oils) but the 229.3 recommended for European engines) and filter change every 3,000 to 5,000 miles (the former if town driving the later if highway driving) g) use diesel treatment additive like Royal Purple Max-tane diesel fuel additive.
Wow Kimball!! This is such a wealth of knowledge! Thanks a lot for dissecting all of the parts that gets affected from the dirty diesel and how to clean them. This is really awesome to know. If there was ever a way for you to do a video, would you consider to do it one day for us in a step by step fashion? That would be cool, especially for people who want to keep the car for a long time. Thanks again for your input! Other will also really appreciate your comment!
Shum faleminderit bush! Been suffering for the last week with the exact same problem, but on the facelift (2014). Sensors sometimes come operational and I get boost. I'll check the fuse tomorrow and let you know how it went.
I have a 2004 c240 4matic and it goes into limp mode at 55-60mph and will flash the yellow check light then when I go under 60 it goes off, I put it on a obd and it has no codes????? PLEASE HELP!!!!
Maybe a full catalytic converter… 🤔 Try to scan while you’re driving and hopefully it catches something when it happens. Also try to use a good scanner. If that still doesn’t work, I would take to a dealer just to check it out with their scan tool. This issue that you have can mean a lot of things like low pressure on fuel (fuel pump or injectors) or air leak… if everything is ok with these two things then the sensors might be bad and not reading correctly so the engine can’t do the correct fuel/air mixture.
Hi, my patriot. I got the code P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction when O2 sensor it is not working. Mercedes 2011 ML 250. Let me know and thanks.
O shqipe, shiko keto gjera: A punon pompa e ajrit apo jo? Mos eshte bllokuar filtri i pompes? A janë siguresat ne rregull? Linjat elektrike qe shkojne nga kutia e siguresave tek pompa, a janë ne rregull? A punon sensori i oksigjenit?
Hi mate, I've replaced the Mafs twice on my C320 V6, but I still get limp mode when my car reaches operating temperature, do you have any ideas on what I might need to change
@@BLahBLahBLahBLah584 Yes, Maf sensor and Temp sensor are built in one so when you replace the broken Left Side, you are replacing both at the same time.
Shqipe si te kam? Shiko siguresat se mos jan djeg. Edhe shiko mirë vendet ku siguresat mungojnë. Ndodh qe personi qe ka pas makinen para teje mund te ket ngel keq për siguresa për një moment edhe ja ka heq OBD dhe sensoreve për të rregulluar siguresa te tjera.
@@AlbanianFix Get this - this will absolutely help someone on this thread - so the fuse kept blowing - why? Because the turbo seal was leaking oil in to inlet motor - changed seal as oil leak but the dripping oil killed the inlet motor this is a very common issue with OM642 engine. I then had a car limp mode as ECU knows inlet motor fried. I then got a resistor and plugged that in to where inlet motor plugged - I dummied off inlet motor fixing with some black electrical tape and tucked it away. I then changed the fuse - baited breath I take car test drive ECU switched car back to full power EML went out. I decided to change my air filters also while I was messing about in there - the old ones were filthy. So…the car no more oil leak no issues full power and again back to the car I loved pre fuse blowing and limp mode conundrum 🤯😀
Hi I love your videos after changing the fuel filter on my 2011 c350cdi which I beleive it the same engine I am getting a fault that says component hot film mass air flow sensor plausibility ideas and car is a bit jerky around 1800rpm I reset all fault codes but it comes back and engine light comes on any ideas?
Yup, that sensor is exactly what’s being shown in this video. Try cleaning the sensors with a MAF spray cleaner . They’re easy to pull apart, they’re being hold together with a small metal bracket that you can slide on or off. Cleaning should resolve it. If not, check the fuses like I did. Check them one by one. And if that fails as well then maybe the sensor need to be replaced altogether.
The knox sensor? I once scanned and show that was bad but dont change it, but now on hills dont get over 1900rpm and it has a extremely lag of power... its a ml350 bluetec 2012
why does it change geas at 4000rpm ? As far as I know the automatic transmission cars like the one shown in the video changes its gears around 2500 rpm ?
P1979 (00) P1614 (00) P1615 (00) P1617 (00) P1618 (00) P0111 P00AB U0423 P1979 (00) P1614 (00) Vlla, kto jane koded qe po ne jep makina, 2013 ML350 Bletec. Cfare mund te kete? Replace the mass air flow system. *shyqyr nje shqiptare ne youtube. Shume urime! Te pershendes nga Kalifornia.
O shqipe rrofsh flm. Keto kode qe me ke dhene jane all over the place. Nuk me duken kode Mercedesit, sme japin asnje lloj informacioni. Bej scan me nje scanner me te mire…
I just spent $1200 for two NOX sensors on my 2011 E350 MB Bluetec and about $300 for a MB shop to diagnose and reset the "remaining starts" limp mode countdown and none of that fixed it. I also spent $1,200 for a rental car because my other car was sideswiped and totalled. I watched this video last night and thought... Could it be that simple? I went and checked all of my fuses and tho my astonishment the very same fuse was blown in my car. Hopefully, this will fix it. I will update later and let everyone know if it worked in my car. I am very hopeful. Huge thank you to Albanian Fix!
Update: I replaced the blown 15 amp blue fuse. There is definitely a great improvement in the performance and power. However, the check engine light is still on after a couple hours of driving and more importantly the "Remaining Starts" countdown has not gone away. This is a 2011 E350 Bluetec Diesel. If the remaining starts countdown does not reset or go away the car will soon not start at all. Can anyone tell me how to reset the remaining Starts counter or get it to go away. Is there a video that tells how to do it?
Good to hear that it fixed at least something. For the remaining starts I have not found any good solutions that you can do on your own. I have seen a few different youtube videos where guys are selling this OBD tool that you just hook up and it automatically resets it for you but other than that, I think you'll have to bring it to the dealership to have them reset it with their computers.
The replacement of the fuse helped the sensor to measure the airflow again which in turn the ECU could correctly tune the engine to a normal state and no more limp mode. This means if your Audi is also in limp mode because one of the sensors that measures air intake is not working, then yes, a fix similar to this should help you as well.
@@youngoakboy You can start looking for a blown fuse in engine's compartment. If everything is good there then I would use a good scanning tool or go to a nearby autozone or car shops where they can scan your car for free to find out what's going on. Maybe there's a faulty airflow sensor, maybe there's vacuum leak, or maybe there's not enough fuel pressure, etc etc... there can be a lot of other things wrong with it. Limp mode is a very generic issue.
Check the sensor in this video… Check the MAF sensor… Check your turbo actuator… And what a lot of people miss to check out, is DPF. This might be completely clogged up. If literally everything above checks out: Might wanna check glow plugs (unlikely) Might wanna check fuel filter (unlikely) Might wanna check fuel pump (unlikely)
The car long time ago they put petrol and not diesel.but the car is diesel..they clean and took out all the diesel but the fuel pomp still not changed.can be this the bigest problem to sort out this.because before start the car and all the ligjt on dashboard are on the car have a strange sound in the way pomp is working like is lots of air there and push pressure..can be this one reason?
Does your OBD read DPF ppms? Basically how clogged the DPF might be. A clogged up DPF doesn’t allow for free air flow which restrict how fast the turbo can spool up.
Yeah, looks like that sensor alone is bad since the other one is still good which also means that the fuse is good too because if it wasn’t, both sensors wouldn’t work.
Unfortunately my fuses were all intact. When I unplugged the mafs the car drives great. When plugged in it jutters which is really annoying and eventually will trow limp mode. New mafs installed though
I'm gonna go livid as my mechanics have got 4000 euros off me for a limp mode no boost situation. Got her back today and still the same. Can't wait to see their faces in the AM
Fuse#24 15 amps Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212; 2010-2016) fuses and relays Valid for engine 156, 157, 271, 272, 273, 274, 276, 278, 642, 651: Electrical connector for interior harness and engine wiring harness Valid for diesel engine: CDI control unit Valid for gasoline engine: ME-SFI control unit Valid for engine 271.958, 274.920: CNG control unit
I have the same problem, my fuse blows and the car doesn't start.. I changed the fuse again, the same problem, after I removed the sensors from the flowmeters, they burned again, from what I understood from the service, they said that I have a short circuit somewhere. .
@@pa1spe94 700 Euros? Hmm... comparing that to what the dealership charges here in my area, I think that's not too bad to find electrical car problems.
@@AlbanianFix kur heci me makin e hup forcen dhe çirot i shkojn te 3 dhe kur asht me 30 ,50 ml dhe kani her me godet diferncal dhe kur efik ktheht ne normal po kur ngani her nat moment due me ekthye ne endjetro dhe asht konfjuz me komande marshit po e fike nomalezo het
Me shkruaj ketu skagje, do mundohem te te kthej pergjigje sa te kem mundesin dhe me aq sa di. Nuk jam mekanik thjesht rregulloj makina per aq sa me jepet vet.
Ueee, dmth dhe ti te njejten problem kishe si puna ime por ne rastin tend ishte sensori dhe jo siguresa si tek une. Megjihate hallall dhe ishalla me kaq.
You needed to do more diagnosis to see the the fuse controls . And why is was blown. The vehicle will be back with the same compliant. You didn't fix anything.
1st, you don’t know what my channel is about. If you did, you’d know I’m not into fake videos. 2nd, this video was done AFTER I found the issue. I never post videos on things I don’t know how to fix myself or while I’m tinkering and still trying to figure stuff out. That helps nobody! 3rd, I only post videos with actual results. This video wasn’t even supposed to be filmed but I thought I could help people out there with the same issue, that’s why everything is filmed AFTER I was done, in fact, 3 days after.
YOU ARE A LEGEND MATE GOD BLESS YOU 😂 I was on my diagnostic for 2 hours doing resets and non stop trying to figure out why my w222 s350 went into limp mode, bunch of air mass sensor faults … just as I was about to give up I found your video and gave it a try… FOUND 1 OF THE FUSES BLOWN, CHANGED IT AND EVERYTHING WAS PERFECT AGAIN. Thank you man
UPDATE- Fuse was blowing because of swirl motor sensor connector blown, was quoted over £900 for new motor and fitting. So I just ordered a bypass sensor connector and cleaned everything up for £15 saved my self a lot of money and car runs better then before !
I have the same problem like you did mate can i please know which fuse you changed picture or name. Seeing your comment rassured me alot. I was once told its the ecu that needs updating then i took it to another mercedes specialist i was told if it was my ecu i wont be able to start the car, he suggested i shud have my dpf clean which i was suppose to book it in thursday then i came across @albanian fix vidéo and your comment 😊😊
@@papychulo2332 I went to Mercedes specialist and he pointed out the fuse was burning from the swirl motor so if you disconnect the swirl motor and change the fuse it will come off limp mode the fuse is number 15 blue in the engine bay top section middle one
@@papychulo2332 depends from car, most common it's fuse 22 or 24 in fuse box under the bonnet. Number 15 on it it's just its amp value.
If you have several of MAF sensors, swirl flap motor and turbo actuator fails in the same time - it's probably swirl flap motor malfunction. Sometimes there is just need to clean up the socket from oil, if no - new actuator or bypass. Sometimes poor wire loop connection, sometimes just new fuse only works👍
I've git the very similar issue on my 2012 GL BLUETEC. It was the 15 amp fuse...changed that and immediately the vehicle started acting like before. Thanks
Zoltan
NICE!
At first when i clicked on the video i was like nice dervish shaqa song and than opened the hood and found that the fuse had blown. Faleminderit shume, suksese!!
M’behet qefi shqipe!!
You're a f'n champion mate. My situation was exactly the same and I thought it was unusual that both MAFS failed.
50 cent fix. You legend you.
Fantastic! I had an auxiliary battery malfunction. I replaced but car went into LIMP MODE I sort help from mechanic who used his computer to turn off engine light but still in limp mode until I watched your wonderful clip. It has solved my problem. Did not know what I was doing but changed that same fuse? probably luck!
Nice! Yes, a lot of people I would say were lucky with this just like I was randomly finding it 😁
O shqipe si ta bej makinen te iki se deri ne 3000 xhiro ri dhe me mban engine light off
Engine light on dhe iken deri ne 3000 xhiro dhe nuk mer me
Engine light on dhe iken deri ne 3000 xhiro dhe nuk mer me
Hi, I have the same problem, do you think the aux battery could be what caused the fuse to blow or something? How is the car after replacing the fuse, did you have the problem return? Cheers!
On a B 200 cdi 246, where the tester is saying the control flap is mailfunctioning, is that the valve that you are refering to, or could this also be related to the fuse or a sensor. Up hill its slow, but once its in 3rd gear it ramps up the power fast. Down hill its ramping up the power decently.
Hi
I have w212 1.8cgi
My car has no code no check light .i did scan many times but stilo there is no code.
Problem is
When i drive normal its perfect revving 5000 rpm shifting smoothly.
When i kickdown it stuck on 5500 rpm in any gear and won't shift bcz car trying to go 6500 plus but stuck ok 5500 rpm.
I changed the fuel filter pump gear oil engine oil cat clean new plugs everything but still same .can you plz guide
good finding and thanks for the video. Do you ever had issue with NOx sensors? mine is showing fault code 2201 on 3 sensors.....how can all 3 go wrong together?
Dude that sounds very similar to my problem in this video. Have you check each and every fuse?
Mine is also may same problem but no any sign display yet. I found the Map sensor hose, changeover valve switch hose of vacuum connections is missing. I may follow your video for solve the issue. Thanks
Hope it works out for you, good luck!
Hey there. Great video. I was wondering what software your using on your phone??
It’s a Bluetooth obd2 scanner and it comes with its own software called BlueDriver.
Excuse me, I have a 2012 Benz C300 Recedes which is giving me codes that are P0174 and P0171, and the fault that I see is that when I drive the revolutions they fluctuate between 2 to 2.5k, which do you think could be bad? I hope you can help me, thank you
Did you ever fix your issue I am getting the same exact code and changed the MAF the spark plugs as. O2 sensors and still there
My car has been stuck on second gear and all braking lights are on abs etc . Speem
Meter not working
This is second time has happen after changing gear selector !!
Anything else you suggest that can fix my w202 diesel 2000 ?
Thank you
Thanks man, this helped me a lot. But did you ever find out the reason for why fuse blew?
No have not yet. It never blew again.
Mine did 😀
The most lucky scenario it's just random fuse blow :D But if it blew again:
If you have several of MAF sensors, swirl flap motor and turbo actuator fails in the same time (like on video) - it's probably swirl flap motor malfunction. Sometimes there is just need to clean up the socket from oil, if no - new actuator or bypass. Less often it might be poor wire loop connection on the plug. Regards 👍
Pershendetje Shqipe, kam e 350 cdi 4 matic, kam problem me senzorin e këndit të vdekur, drita e verdhë qëndron e ndezur gjithmon ne pasqyre, me kan thën ktu ne zvicer qe eshte extra nji cenzor per kendin e vdekur qe duhet bler i ri, sepse jan te ndishem nga uji e duhet nderruar. qa duhet te bej sips teje? Faleminderit shum
Unë nuk kam patur ndonjë problem me sensorët por me ç’farë kam dëgjuar, trekëndshi i verdhë i pasqyrave i kanë sensorët tek prapakolpi, 1 në çdo krahë e montuar nga brënda. Kur bie shumë shi edhe mua më ndizen trekëndshat edhe kur thahen fiken vet sepse siç duket futet ujiti për një moment. Shiko se mos ke dhe ti ndonjë lagështirë brënda atyre apo pisllik, baltë që ka ngec, mbase një pastrim i mirë mund ti rregullojë, përndryshe shiko mos ke ndonjë siguresë të djegur ose vet sensoret mund të jenë djeg. Janë shumë të thjeshta për tu ndërruar por duhet te kesh kompjuterin STAR të Benzit ose një kompjuter tjetër shumë të mirë që arrinë të lexojë dhe të regjistroj të gjitha modularet e sensorëve, përndryshe nuk do punojnë.
Nqs arrin ti rregullosh më shkruaj këtu si ja dole sepse ndihmon dhe të tjerët që lexojnë.
Hello sir. Have same issue but in a Gle 350z fuse box looks little different. Do
You have any information that can helps
Sorry I don't but emanuals is very cheap and you can find answers there.
I have a Mercedes CLASS C 220 DIESEL 4 MATIC YEAR 2017. My car is shutting down randomy especially when I giveca quick acceleration. Try many things without results even changed fuel pump, check the motor wheel and different sensor. Can u please give a tip to resolve. Do u think it is electrical issue ?
You probably have heard this a 100 times but this kind of issue is mostly related to the camshaft position sensor.
I would definitely check that out first.
I have a 250 CDI W212 2011 and it had problems with dpf pressure sensor and DPF. I replaced the sensor and cleaned the DPF but it still won't go over 3k RPM.
Then it’s time to look at the turbo actuator. If the actuator doesn’t open or close the wastegate how it’s supposed to, it’s also a reason why you’re not getting boost.
@@AlbanianFix I didn't try that cuz when i turned it on right away and started revving it it regenrated itself and i was holding over 4k rpm for about 20 seconds and tested it goes 210 kmh no problem
Hello, my car is in limp mode, second gear. Mercedes c 200 2002. What should I do. Help please
Hi. Thank you for your videos. Your link to your bluetooth device does not work. can you please let us know the name? regards Peter
Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I updated the link.
You're the man, fixed!
Përshendetje vlla kam nje Benz viti 2008 e320 bluetec me ka ndezur check engine edhe kodi esht 2513 check component m55 ke ndo nje ide cfar lloj pjese mund ta ket fajin
Si je shqipe? Ky kod flet per nje motor elektrik te vogel qe gjendet poshte turbos. Ky motor i vogel hap dhe mbyll rruget e ajrit. Eshte shum tipike qe ky motor te prishet shpesh. Duket si kjo ketu poshte:
tinyurl.com/328etae3
Mund ta ndrrosh por do te kushtoj pak sa sepse eshte gjith ajo pune per te arritur deri tek kjo pjese ose per momentin mund ta ç'aktivizosh si motor me nje "stil" ne menyre qe kompjuteri i makines ECU ti duket sikur motori eshte ne rregull dhe punon.
Kete lloj "stili" dhe menyra si ta ç'aktivizosh ka me mijera video ne youtube. Nje nga ato video qe te tregon si ta besh eshte kjo ketu poshte:
ua-cam.com/video/LtMibd1bHs0/v-deo.html
Ne minuten e 14 e 25 sekonda te tregon shume çarte se si ta besh kete procedure. Por te duhet te blesh nje nga ato rezistencat e vogla qe te besh çarkun elektrik se ndryshe nuk punon.
Kjo metod eshte vetem momentale derisa te blesh nje motor elektrik te ri.
@@AlbanianFix shum faleminderit shqipe rrespekte 😎
Hi I have mercedes s350 bluetec 2012.problem started two week ago .we were going uphill suddenly loose power .no boost it was running but no boost .turn it off and run normal again .when ever we try to accelerate then it happens but if we don't push hard then no problem. One technician said it's show low boost but he didn't find anything problem then he told change maf sensor .any suggestion will be greatful
Well in my case it was just a blown fuse. If everything checks out good on your end then I believe that it most likely is the DPF which is probably blocked. If your car does a lot city driving then I would strongly suggest to do a run on the highway. The DPF has a self-cleaning process called Regeneration. This process only happens if your car is driving nonstop about 55-65 mph for about 30-40 minutes on a highway with minimal traffic. If you live in the city with a lot of stop and go, I would strongly suggest to do highway runs at least once a week.
DID YOU HAVE anymore issues mines a c207 E350 cdi blueefficiency and engine light on and lack of power
No, the issues that your mentioning pretty much sum up the issues that I had before this fix. Ever since this video I haven’t had anymore issues.
Mines sorted now was a silly sensor and now reset and runs great.
@@stephenstrassen1135 Nice, I like to hear that!! Was is the same sensor?
Hello Albanian Fix, I wonder if you know anything about this error on a Mercedes W212 „90B387
Electric Heater Booster 1 Has a Malfunction. The message is missing.
DTC Status:
Current and stored“ kind regards Yusuf
That's a good video. I have problem that i think maf sensors are showing little too low values, and it's causing frequent DPF regenerations. the sooth value goes up fast, even thou exhaust back pressure or pressure difference sensor over dpf is not. if I disconnect one maf sensor, start it three times to get the engine light, after that the sooth cumulation is alot slower, and actually if the sooth value is 5grams, it will calculate and the value goes down. it probably uses different math to do the calculation. but it also causes usually limp mode with no power. I had one Y pipe with the second maf broken and it was perfect, as it kept the slow calculation, but still no limp mode, so power was full. I have reader where you can calibrate the sensors, so the ecu knows they are changed. but not sure should this be done with empty DPF or full. I think EGR removal would fix the issue also, but these have pulse wide modulated maf's, and the car knows if the airflow doesn't go down when egr opens. so it cannot be removed without programming.
Hmm 🤔 interesting. I haven’t been down the rabbit hole this deep your comment with be a reminder when that times comes. 👍
I have this exact same problem on my vw pd105 do you think this could be the same problem
Probably, or maybe sensor are bad
@@AlbanianFix replaced both sensors buddy and still the same
I have the same problem with my 2013 sprinter with same engine,can you tell me what's the description for that fuse since the sprinter has no fuse box under the hood.thanks
At 1:04 it shows the wiring diagram along with its description
Hi mate, I have an s class 320 lwb and my issue is when I put my foot down it feels boosted but then 5 mins later go to do it but no boost and no check engine light, all seems fine apart from lack of boost. I can turn the car off and on and goes back to normal with boost. Any ideas ?
Sounds like the Turbo’s Actuator might be bad.
Shqipe a mund te me ndihmosh shpejtsia e makines time eshte dobesuar edhe e270 w211 2003 kur ngas me shpejtsi me dhezet check engine light drita e motorit dhe ka forc me shum kur e shkymi makinen dhe e dhezi prap ngadalsohet ndonjeher mndodh kshtu ndonjeher ska asnji dallim edhe kur ngas shpejt njejt esht vetura edhe nuk esht nregull me shpejtsite flm shummm
Ka shum gjera perse nuk ka shpejtesi por një nga problemet kryesore te ksaj natyre ka te bej me EGR Valve
Shiko me posht:
ua-cam.com/video/zyRUG-ry_SU/v-deo.html
I cant believe this just worked for me!
Lol, nice 👍
What was the name off the Fuse you changed
shqipe mercedes b 180 d nuk merr gaz me shum se 3000 rpm dhe nuk shkon me shum se 120 km/h cili eshte problemi?
Une mendoj qe valvula e shkarkimit nuk hapet sa duhet ne menyre qe turboja te rrotullohet me fuqi te plote. Shkurt muhabeti gjeta nje video qe ta shikosh dhe tregon fiks per cfare e kam fjalen se nuk shpjegohet dot me mesazhe.
Bej ato dy teste siç e beri dhe ky ne video ketu poshte:
ua-cam.com/video/4SieELJTCBU/v-deo.html
Hey dude, is that fuse for MAF sensors?
I have a question about my benz E220 2004 150hp/.. why doesn't it goes more than 3k rpm and 140km/h maxx .. no power at all lees than half power.. have cleaned all the air tubes and filter still same... thx for reply 🤙
Besmir si je? Ky lloj problemi eshte shum i gjithanshem dhe kjo video tregon nje nga “solutions” te mundshme. Me mir ble nje aparat OBD2 Scanner dhe shiko ça kodesh te nxjerr edhe pastaj tu pa tu bo...
@@AlbanianFix mir flm.. faleminderit per pergjigjen, menoj qe qashtu duhet mja bo se e kam pas makinen te do servise po skan mujt me gjet se ku o problemi kshtu qe e kom per qefi e duna me kqyr me bo zgjidhje vet .. Flm shum
2010 GL350 bluetech has the same motor but the fuse box is different . do you know the exact fuse?
No, sorry I can’t help. I found this fuse just by luck after checking each one individually.
Patriot si je a je mire kam ni mercedes 2018 c class kalon makina limp mode po nuk nxjerr code asigjo e fik e ndez mer shpejtesi prap nuk ndez asigjo met tregu ca problemi Ka a mundesh te ma shpjegosh te lutem
Si t'kam vlla? Është pak problem kur makina nuk të tregon se ç'probem ka. Mos është gjë e modifikume makina nga ana xhenerike?
Limp mode aktivizohet kur një ose disa pjesë të motorrit ose të transmisionit nuk punojnë siç duhet, psh. ndonjë sensor, siguresë, kabllat elektrike ose elektronike nuk punojnë ose kanë shkëputje etj.
Në rastin tënd ty nuk të del asnjë shenjë që do të thotë makinës i është bërë ndonjë modifikim ku disa sensorë janë anulluar nga ECU (truri makinës) në mënyrë që të mos ndërhyjnë tek modikimi i bërë, dhe ato sensorë nuk japin më shenjë kur vërtet ka diçka që nuk shkon.
Nqs makina nuk ka modfikime të tilla dhe diçka ose diku tek ato pjesë apo sensorë që përmënda mësipër ti do kesh ndonjë shkëputje momentale, punë sekondash e cila vet-rregulkohet por e fut makinën në limp mode dhe nuk arrin të tregoj gjë në sistem dhe prandaj kur ti e fik dhe e ndez, makina është në rregull. Megjithatë, shko bëj një skanim makinës tek servisi sepse shumicën e rastit edhe pse nuk del gjë, skanimi mund të tregoj se ç'farë ka ndodhur me kompjuterin e makinës.
Shum flm vlla .e kam fut te komjuteri i benzit e Ka update ecu e Ka kthy nga fillimi.nuk e beri per ni muaj isha duke hec the u fut ne limp mode nuk hecte me shum se 40 e fika e ndeza normal e kam shiku gjithandej neper londer nuk nxjerr gjo e futi ni shok I im ne live data kompjuter dhe e nxori ket position off selection range valve fault .se kur ndaloj ne semafor e bon ni slip ose jerking kick .po ti shum faleminderit per replay patriot
E futa prap te kompjuter benzit ne live data e nuk e nxori
Hello same problem here but when i replace the fuse it blows again any ideas whats wrong?
Maybe a ground fault on the sensors itself....
Looks great this 👍 can't wait to get outa the bath and go have a check 💪
Hello Albanian Fix,
good afternoon
Can You Help me in this situation please.
I have a jeep grandCherokee 2009 crd 3.0 limited (OM642 Mercedes) after driving 30km shows failure in the fuel sensor past failure P2264 Fuel/water separator sensor circuit.
I have already changed the sensor and filters and use only good diesel the obd always shows the same fault as before.
could you give me some guidance?
it makes me crazy
Give me a tip Please..
Did you clear the data from the OBD after the replacement?
@@AlbanianFix Yes, I have wiped the OBD data after replacements. after running +/- 30km I turn off the car and when restarting it shows an error on the panel and the obd accuses a past failure.
Is there any way to disable this sensor or this fault?
Would the p0101 code be triggered by a bad downstream 02 sensor??
That was my very first thought as well. I swapped sensors and the issue didn't move, then after fumbling around with the fuses I found this...
Hi mate, thanks for the info! I’m having the same issue. When I start the car, it sometimes has no boost, as if the turbo is not working, but when I stop the car and restart it, it gets back to normal. This occasionally happens when it’s hot weather. What do you think the issue is?
Your issue sounds exactly like mines especially when it’s temperature sensitive, the sensors might need to be changed. Try this fix, hopefully it works out for you. And also try to look into the sensors itself, they may need to be replaced.
@@AlbanianFix thanks bud! Will have a look 😁
@Joshua Lerch have you found the issue. I have the same problem.
@@alexanderallen898 not as of yet, but it could be a few things. Transmission fault causing it to go into limp mode. This happens when it needs a service, or it could be a faulty turbo actuator
@@joshualerch6553 Doesn't sound like a faulty turbo actuator, if i had to bet i'd say it's 2 the MAF sensors located on the air intake housing. The both have 2 metal clips holding them in place on the top & bottom. You can try just finding the 2 sensors but you usually have to buy a whole new intake housing which includes the 2 sensors.
I came looking for some answers maybe, for my a class w177 that goes on a limp mode every time I am on the motorway. Have tried everything and asked everyone. Even changed the turbo. However, I click on the thumbnail, the video starts and I hear a legendary voice very familiar to me. Did I click wrong? Did I hear wrong? Nope! It’s a Geg Rapsod singing in the most beautiful language of the world. And then, the Red and Black flag with the Doublehead Eagle. Now, let’s watch the video.
Where r u located?
@@AlbanianFix in London, UK.
Hi FYI... I have the same car... Yes if the fuse fails (blows -> open) this works, it is just like turning the engine off with the key but importantly just that sensor part... this is not a serious failure!
However, Engine LIGHT or Limp mode -> there is another failure mode PO401 to look out for it is EGR Flow (insignificant) actually any code related to EGR flow. This means one of three things the EGR system is not working, the EGR system is clogged, or the EGR flow sensor is bad??? But no EGR flow sensor exists on the car, there are temperature sensors, and a EGR valve position or "flow" shown on the live data. What it is the ECU (computer controlling the engine) gets a signals from the two MAF sensors in the intake air horn, and an EGR valve position from the EGR valve... this is then used by the ECU to calculate an EGR flow. This is based on an algorithm that MB developed when the engine was development tested in the lab. The data the computer receives from the MAF Sensors is taken and bias with the EGR valve position data... then the algorithm in the computer calculates the EGR flow. This is important for the fuel control and emission system operation of the engine, and its exhaust system the DEF/SCR operation and control. How the MAF sensors (though they may work) figure in is if the computer senses an imbalance between the two MAF sensors, like a clogged air cleaner or inlet air system leak (mechanical) or the SENSOR signal balance (electrical) then you can get that code that goes into the limp home mode eventually. If the sensor signal balance is not a lose wire or dirty connection or failure of the sensor temperature then it is the calibration between the sensors... and you must replace the air horn of the inlet air system horn which has both sensors installed a $400 ish part. Hope this helps with trouble shooting.
The other mechanical issues could be:
a) EGR valve electrical connections, carbon build up preventing movement, or failure... if in the live data you don't see the percent EGR% then it could be one of these issues. Failed valve $400 ish part, connection free to $30 for new connectors, or clogging with soot hard work to remove, and clean.
Or and God help you,
b) EGR system clogging with soot... this requires cleaning all the piping after the EGR valve, and may involve cleaning the exhaust pipe from the main exhaust system to the EGR valve.
1b - The EGR piping and cooler is located under the inlet air piping and manifolds and horn between in the valley between cylinders... so you must remove all the inlet air system to get to it.
2b -The cross over pipe between the inlet air and EGR system is readily accessible at front of engine... start there remove, clean and also remove and clean EGR valve before thinking of replacing.
3b - Soaking those parts the pipe and the EGR valve valve chamber (not the stepper motor as that will ruin it) in diesel fuel or acetone/diesel fuel mix or acetone/oil 50/50 to 25/75 mix (either engine, transmission or best is Marvel's Mystery Oil or Sea Foam) overnight and then washing out with hot water stream works best / pressure washer works too.
4b - Do not wet the stepper motor or electrical components Protect with sealed plastic bags.... but don't submerge in any case.
5b - The inlet manifolds, cross over, and EGR cooler are best submerged but remove the temperature or emissions sensors electrical parts. Let this set overnight soaking in that cleaner. The wash out with the clear.
6b - Then you may, making sure the valves for the cylinder you are working on are closed (rotating engine over) clean each inlet port in the head, lots of UA-cams on this mess. There will be lots of carbon!
or
c) after you are done cleaning and realize what a pain it is... sell car!
d) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for a stay in the German Concentration Camp -> b) cleaning nightmare every 25,000 to 40,000 or your engine will seize
e) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for a stay changing transmission oil, including torque converter and filter every 40,000 or your transmission will fail.
f) if you don't sell the car count yourself in for changing engine oil with Heavy Duty Diesel full synthetic oil 5w-40 ACEA E9, API CK-4 oil (no not the MB 229.51 or 229.52 the rest of the World failure oils) but the 229.3 recommended for European engines) and filter change every 3,000 to 5,000 miles (the former if town driving the later if highway driving)
g) use diesel treatment additive like Royal Purple Max-tane diesel fuel additive.
Wow Kimball!! This is such a wealth of knowledge!
Thanks a lot for dissecting all of the parts that gets affected from the dirty diesel and how to clean them. This is really awesome to know.
If there was ever a way for you to do a video, would you consider to do it one day for us in a step by step fashion? That would be cool, especially for people who want to keep the car for a long time.
Thanks again for your input! Other will also really appreciate your comment!
@@honestvalue7368and it help you?
Shum faleminderit bush! Been suffering for the last week with the exact same problem, but on the facelift (2014). Sensors sometimes come operational and I get boost. I'll check the fuse tomorrow and let you know how it went.
I have a 2004 c240 4matic and it goes into limp mode at 55-60mph and will flash the yellow check light then when I go under 60 it goes off, I put it on a obd and it has no codes????? PLEASE HELP!!!!
Also it has no issues till around 60mph then bogged down then goes right back to normal till I hit 60 again?
Maybe a full catalytic converter… 🤔
Try to scan while you’re driving and hopefully it catches something when it happens. Also try to use a good scanner. If that still doesn’t work, I would take to a dealer just to check it out with their scan tool.
This issue that you have can mean a lot of things like low pressure on fuel (fuel pump or injectors) or air leak… if everything is ok with these two things then the sensors might be bad and not reading correctly so the engine can’t do the correct fuel/air mixture.
Hi, my patriot. I got the code P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction when O2 sensor it is not working. Mercedes 2011 ML 250. Let me know and thanks.
O shqipe, shiko keto gjera:
A punon pompa e ajrit apo jo?
Mos eshte bllokuar filtri i pompes?
A janë siguresat ne rregull?
Linjat elektrike qe shkojne nga kutia e siguresave tek pompa, a janë ne rregull?
A punon sensori i oksigjenit?
Thanks a lot Shqipe
Hi mate, I've replaced the Mafs twice on my C320 V6, but I still get limp mode when my car reaches operating temperature, do you have any ideas on what I might need to change
Check these other things:
1 - DPF
2 - Turbo
3 - Turbo’s Actuator
Had the things you mentioned checked, all good. The code I get is: b2/6b1 left intake temperature sensor voltage too high.
@@BLahBLahBLahBLah584 Oh there you go, you found the issue. Nice job!
@@AlbanianFix is that the maf sensor or a different sensor ?
@@BLahBLahBLahBLah584 Yes, Maf sensor and Temp sensor are built in one so when you replace the broken Left Side, you are replacing both at the same time.
O vlla si kalove kam nje Mercedes Viano viti 2010 dhe nuk me punojn fare prima e diagnozes obd edhe sensoret e parkimit falemderit
Shqipe si te kam? Shiko siguresat se mos jan djeg. Edhe shiko mirë vendet ku siguresat mungojnë. Ndodh qe personi qe ka pas makinen para teje mund te ket ngel keq për siguresa për një moment edhe ja ka heq OBD dhe sensoreve për të rregulluar siguresa te tjera.
Rrofsh vlla shum falemderit
Mine was out my fuse I replaced it and my car has blown the next fuse 🤔 any ideas 🤔
Looks like you got a short somewhere
@@AlbanianFix air temp sensor malfunction - new one arrives tomorrow £15
@@myunconsciousismine4694 Nice! Let us know how it went.
@@AlbanianFix Get this - this will absolutely help someone on this thread - so the fuse kept blowing - why? Because the turbo seal was leaking oil in to inlet motor - changed seal as oil leak but the dripping oil killed the inlet motor this is a very common issue with OM642 engine. I then had a car limp mode as ECU knows inlet motor fried. I then got a resistor and plugged that in to where inlet motor plugged - I dummied off inlet motor fixing with some black electrical tape and tucked it away. I then changed the fuse - baited breath I take car test drive ECU switched car back to full power EML went out. I decided to change my air filters also while I was messing about in there - the old ones were filthy. So…the car no more oil leak no issues full power and again back to the car I loved pre fuse blowing and limp mode conundrum 🤯😀
Hi I love your videos after changing the fuel filter on my 2011 c350cdi which I beleive it the same engine I am getting a fault that says component hot film mass air flow sensor plausibility ideas and car is a bit jerky around 1800rpm I reset all fault codes but it comes back and engine light comes on any ideas?
Yup, that sensor is exactly what’s being shown in this video. Try cleaning the sensors with a MAF spray cleaner . They’re easy to pull apart, they’re being hold together with a small metal bracket that you can slide on or off. Cleaning should resolve it. If not, check the fuses like I did. Check them one by one. And if that fails as well then maybe the sensor need to be replaced altogether.
@@AlbanianFix Thanks a million I will do that it seems a mad coincidence that it went first drive after changing fuel filter
Mine was the sensor on the exhaust as there are 2 and was the first sensor engine and. Now works great
Oh nice, this is really good to know for future reference or anybody else still trying to figure out the issue. Thanks for your input!
The knox sensor? I once scanned and show that was bad but dont change it, but now on hills dont get over 1900rpm and it has a extremely lag of power... its a ml350 bluetec 2012
What kind of diagnostic model are u using ?
I'm have included the model of the Bluetooth OBD in the comments section.
why does it change geas at 4000rpm ? As far as I know the automatic transmission cars like the one shown in the video changes its gears around 2500 rpm ?
I don’t know much about transmission but sounds like an issue with the speed sensor of the transmission.
@@AlbanianFix that's definitely not normal for it to change it at 4000 rpm.
@@freemindas Nope, it's definitely not.
P1979 (00)
P1614 (00)
P1615 (00)
P1617 (00)
P1618 (00)
P0111
P00AB
U0423
P1979 (00)
P1614 (00)
Vlla, kto jane koded qe po ne jep makina, 2013 ML350 Bletec. Cfare mund te kete? Replace the mass air flow system.
*shyqyr nje shqiptare ne youtube. Shume urime! Te pershendes nga Kalifornia.
O shqipe rrofsh flm. Keto kode qe me ke dhene jane all over the place. Nuk me duken kode Mercedesit, sme japin asnje lloj informacioni. Bej scan me nje scanner me te mire…
Hello i have thé same problem but my fusé Keeps blowing when i turn the key whats thé issue help !
Looks like there’s is a grounding issue somewhere in the engine… you will have to trace it to see where it’s coming from.
Which p codes did it read ?
I just spent $1200 for two NOX sensors on my 2011 E350 MB Bluetec and about $300 for a MB shop to diagnose and reset the "remaining starts" limp mode countdown and none of that fixed it.
I also spent $1,200 for a rental car because my other car was sideswiped and totalled.
I watched this video last night and thought... Could it be that simple? I went and checked all of my fuses and tho my astonishment the very same fuse was blown in my car.
Hopefully, this will fix it.
I will update later and let everyone know if it worked in my car. I am very hopeful.
Huge thank you to Albanian Fix!
Update: I replaced the blown 15 amp blue fuse. There is definitely a great improvement in the performance and power.
However, the check engine light is still on after a couple hours of driving and more importantly the "Remaining Starts" countdown has not gone away. This is a 2011 E350 Bluetec Diesel.
If the remaining starts countdown does not reset or go away the car will soon not start at all.
Can anyone tell me how to reset the remaining Starts counter or get it to go away. Is there a video that tells how to do it?
Good to hear that it fixed at least something. For the remaining starts I have not found any good solutions that you can do on your own. I have seen a few different youtube videos where guys are selling this OBD tool that you just hook up and it automatically resets it for you but other than that, I think you'll have to bring it to the dealership to have them reset it with their computers.
Thanks a lot man!
j'ai une Mercedes A207 120kw erreur P0101 je pence que ses le même problème ?
p0101 c est le capteur débimetre mais souvent c est le filtre a air qu il faut changer avec ce code avant meme de changer le débimetre
et tu as reglé le problème comment ?
Does Audi have. It I have a Audi A5 2008 goes in limp mode
The replacement of the fuse helped the sensor to measure the airflow again which in turn the ECU could correctly tune the engine to a normal state and no more limp mode.
This means if your Audi is also in limp mode because one of the sensors that measures air intake is not working, then yes, a fix similar to this should help you as well.
@@AlbanianFix okay fasho so u think I should replace the fuse cause there old i know forsure
@@youngoakboy You can start looking for a blown fuse in engine's compartment. If everything is good there then I would use a good scanning tool or go to a nearby autozone or car shops where they can scan your car for free to find out what's going on. Maybe there's a faulty airflow sensor, maybe there's vacuum leak, or maybe there's not enough fuel pressure, etc etc... there can be a lot of other things wrong with it. Limp mode is a very generic issue.
How is the fuse labeled? How do I find it on 2007 S320cdi S class
What to do do the car engine light on and not power till 3000 is staying there and not going the car please halp me
Check the sensor in this video…
Check the MAF sensor…
Check your turbo actuator…
And what a lot of people miss to check out, is DPF. This might be completely clogged up.
If literally everything above checks out:
Might wanna check glow plugs (unlikely)
Might wanna check fuel filter (unlikely)
Might wanna check fuel pump (unlikely)
The car long time ago they put petrol and not diesel.but the car is diesel..they clean and took out all the diesel but the fuel pomp still not changed.can be this the bigest problem to sort out this.because before start the car and all the ligjt on dashboard are on the car have a strange sound in the way pomp is working like is lots of air there and push pressure..can be this one reason?
@@ALvARo-MeXiCo This story changes the "Might wanna check fuel pump (unlikely)" to very likely.
Also, replace fuel pump if they haven't already.
Hi i had the same problem i changed the fuse i found it broken, maf errors are gone but still no boost after driving for 30min
Does your OBD read DPF ppms? Basically how clogged the DPF might be. A clogged up DPF doesn’t allow for free air flow which restrict how fast the turbo can spool up.
@@AlbanianFix ill read again tomorow and tell you , thanks for the replay
120B Ladedrucksteller - stromkreis offen - permanent
1214 Auschaltung einlaskanal - kurzschluss am pluspol - sporadisch
The motor runs , but no boost
@@Raa-y6l sorry this is in German and the coding is different from the "P0xxx" numbers
I got sensor B , he got 0 and sensor A 7-9g .. sensor B is dead?
Yeah, looks like that sensor alone is bad since the other one is still good which also means that the fuse is good too because if it wasn’t, both sensors wouldn’t work.
o vlla kam e clas 350 disel edhe mnez cekun e motorrit ca si kam ber der tani e prap chekun ndez
Ça kodi te nxjerr?
ajo dikur ka pas nxjerr prb ke egr ato i kam rregullu krejta tashi nxjerr prb komplet nmemorje makines po se maj mend kodin
Unfortunately my fuses were all intact. When I unplugged the mafs the car drives great. When plugged in it jutters which is really annoying and eventually will trow limp mode. New mafs installed though
What does your scanner say what the issue is?
@@AlbanianFix car drives fine without the mafs plugged in. I do have on oem maf sensor to replace. I’ll do that in three weeks and let you know
@@rbrood267 Yes do that.
Hey i have same problem do u solve that problem?
Spot on :) Thanks for the video!
Yours had the same issue? …Nice
Wish I had seen this 2 yrs ago. Had the exact same thing and stealership charged me close to 2 grand.
Oh sh**... 2K for this? That’s some B S
I'm gonna go livid as my mechanics have got 4000 euros off me for a limp mode no boost situation. Got her back today and still the same. Can't wait to see their faces in the AM
Fuse#24 15 amps Mercedes-Benz E-Class (W212; 2010-2016) fuses and relays
Valid for engine 156, 157, 271, 272, 273, 274, 276, 278, 642, 651: Electrical connector for interior harness and engine wiring harness
Valid for diesel engine: CDI control unit
Valid for gasoline engine: ME-SFI control unit
Valid for engine 271.958, 274.920: CNG control unit
Thank you I did it safe few thousands
Nice 👍!!!
Ku e ke kete servisin vlla ?
Nuk kam servis shqipe. Thjesht bejm ça t’na kapi dora si gjith shqiptaret 😂
Mass air flow boost
Hi my same fuse keeps blowing
Check out this guy, he’s pretty good:
ua-cam.com/video/k0yG3TwXBEw/v-deo.html
How to clear fault light on dashlight
With a obd2 scanning tool
Could you make a video of how to do this?
I have the same problem, my fuse blows and the car doesn't start.. I changed the fuse again, the same problem, after I removed the sensors from the flowmeters, they burned again, from what I understood from the service, they said that I have a short circuit somewhere. .
Yes, short circuit indeed. What did they say how much it would cost to find the short?
@@AlbanianFix the total price, somewhere around €700
@@pa1spe94 700 Euros? Hmm... comparing that to what the dealership charges here in my area, I think that's not too bad to find electrical car problems.
its no longer available:-((
What's no longer available?
the bluetooth device
@@zwidich I updated the link 👍
I had the sensors replaced tw0 years ago. They are bad again. Such bs.
Hmm 🤔 seems like a bad design.
Pse makina ma hap forcen
Ç’force eshte ajo?
@@AlbanianFix kur heci me makin e hup forcen dhe çirot i shkojn te 3 dhe kur asht me 30 ,50 ml dhe kani her me godet diferncal dhe kur efik ktheht ne normal po kur ngani her nat moment due me ekthye ne endjetro dhe asht konfjuz me komande marshit po e fike nomalezo het
@@AlbanianFix 280 cdi
Po me çfare po me thu, kjo duket qarte qe ke probleme me transmisionin. E ke par ndonjeher? E ke çuar te servisi per transmision?
@@AlbanianFix jo sekam çue se teker kojn shum se ndoshta nuk e ka se trasmesoni nuk bjen me100mi ml po mendoj se moska noj sensor
Što ne staviš prevod na srpski, ljubi te brat?
A munesh me ma lan numrin e telefonit viber kam nji pytje per s class
Me shkruaj ketu skagje, do mundohem te te kthej pergjigje sa te kem mundesin dhe me aq sa di. Nuk jam mekanik thjesht rregulloj makina per aq sa me jepet vet.
@@AlbanianFix sot e regullova senzor interkulerit kam nrru flm.
Ueee, dmth dhe ti te njejten problem kishe si puna ime por ne rastin tend ishte sensori dhe jo siguresa si tek une. Megjihate hallall dhe ishalla me kaq.
You needed to do more diagnosis to see the the fuse controls . And why is was blown. The vehicle will be back with the same compliant. You didn't fix anything.
Maybe… Maybe not… since this video, car is still running great and fuse has not blown anymore.
I believe it’s fixed for me… you do you…
Živelo kosovarje
Shqiptar nga shqiperia vllai. Kosvaret I kemi vellezerit tone.
I really hope mine is just a sensor.
🤞🤞
@@AlbanianFix I have had the DPF cut off and STILL the problem remains. Any suggestions?
@@SV-AMG if this problem occurred ever since you deleted the dpf then probably the ecu tuning isn't right...
@@AlbanianFix going to the garage again this Saturday brother so fingers crossed
You did not show the fuse was blown this is fake
1st, you don’t know what my channel is about. If you did, you’d know I’m not into fake videos.
2nd, this video was done AFTER I found the issue. I never post videos on things I don’t know how to fix myself or while I’m tinkering and still trying to figure stuff out. That helps nobody!
3rd, I only post videos with actual results. This video wasn’t even supposed to be filmed but I thought I could help people out there with the same issue, that’s why everything is filmed AFTER I was done, in fact, 3 days after.
0
C220 651 gives error p0045 , revs not going beyond 2000rpm