Make sure you varnish before trying this if using contrast paints; it will strip the paint right off if you get it on them. I used a metal rod and dropped the binder onto it to help it go where needed without accidentally getting on the model. (Just like using a glass rod in chemistry to pour acid...) I just tried this with my 12mm ACW Epic figs from Warlord using foam flock...I'll check on them tomorrow to see the results
Great video. Do you think this would help keep texture paint (I'm thinking specifically of cracking paints) from being so brittle? I have been using superglue for that, but it's expensive and can change the color of some paints.
@@EonsOfBattle My varnishes are all sprays, so I wouldn't expect them to help much. One advantage of the superglue is that using the thin stuff, it flows over and around and under those chips very well. But I'll look at brush-on varnishes after I try your basing binder.
The problem I've always had with super glue is how difficult it is to control and getting frosting on my bases from the glue drying. I think PVA is less secure than super glue but the ability to have time to set everything exactly the way I want is important to me. Then with this method of using the binder it makes it even stronger!
An interesting recipe! I'd been using superglue (namely Gorilla Glue) for some time because it works better than the traditional white glue method, but I may have to give this a try.
The method prescribed seemed to loosen up the material. When handling I think I ruined the flocking a bit. I'll see how resilient it is when it dries, but I may have to scrape and start over. I think I needed to add more dish soap than shown in the video to get the binder to flow properly. Following the video closely resulted in it beading up a bit.
This was super helpful I’m sick of painting bases and pulling off material. I’ll be making a batch of your binder this afternoon. Thanks
Awesome! Report back on the results! ;)
Glycerine in place of dish soap is a great option. Thanks for the recipe!
This worked great for keeping some sand/rocks down. Thanks.
Big thank you! My Scenic Terrains grass has always been a problem, this should fix it.
Let me know if it helps! Also a Matte Varnish could help seal it at the end!
Make sure you varnish before trying this if using contrast paints; it will strip the paint right off if you get it on them. I used a metal rod and dropped the binder onto it to help it go where needed without accidentally getting on the model. (Just like using a glass rod in chemistry to pour acid...) I just tried this with my 12mm ACW Epic figs from Warlord using foam flock...I'll check on them tomorrow to see the results
Use glycerin instead of soap. Soap degreases
Looks great - I have been struggling to get moss to stick, and this looks like it might work to help that! Thanks for sharing. :)
Thanks for watching! Give it a try!
Would this work as a static grass layering spray?
Wonder if you can spray this?
Can you try it with sawdust? No one seems to find how to seal that! Thanks.
instead of your base binder, could I spray with matt varnish to get the same effect?
Think this would work to bind dry pigment without changing it's appearance to much?
Do you just use tap water? If so do you ever get a problem with the mixture going stagnant in the bottle?
Distilled water would be prefered just to make sure you don't get any extra chemicals in your Binder
Great video. Do you think this would help keep texture paint (I'm thinking specifically of cracking paints) from being so brittle? I have been using superglue for that, but it's expensive and can change the color of some paints.
Hmmm interesting I'm not sure! That would be an interesting thing to try! Have you tried a Matt varnish to see if that helped?
@@EonsOfBattle My varnishes are all sprays, so I wouldn't expect them to help much. One advantage of the superglue is that using the thin stuff, it flows over and around and under those chips very well.
But I'll look at brush-on varnishes after I try your basing binder.
@@corneliusperkins7363 Sounds good! Please report back I would love to find the solution to this!
Yesss perfect vid thanks so much for making❣️❣️❣️❣️
Thank you!!! Hope it helps!
@@EonsOfBattle yes sir all of your vids are super helpful
The alcohol is a nice idea. But what about the flock? Personally i just use super glue to glue flock down securely.
The problem I've always had with super glue is how difficult it is to control and getting frosting on my bases from the glue drying. I think PVA is less secure than super glue but the ability to have time to set everything exactly the way I want is important to me. Then with this method of using the binder it makes it even stronger!
@@EonsOfBattle Ah yes, the good old frosting, highly annoying
Great work! This seems really helpful!
~ Wolfbrother Methos
Thank you!!! Glad you enjoyed!
But doesn't alcohol eat your paint
An interesting recipe! I'd been using superglue (namely Gorilla Glue) for some time because it works better than the traditional white glue method, but I may have to give this a try.
Give it a try! :D More videos coming soon!
U did brush the 2nd one a bit more, lol
I'm pretty sure that is Isopropyl Alcohol? (Rubbing alcohol).
you dont need alcohol and detergent
The method prescribed seemed to loosen up the material. When handling I think I ruined the flocking a bit. I'll see how resilient it is when it dries, but I may have to scrape and start over.
I think I needed to add more dish soap than shown in the video to get the binder to flow properly. Following the video closely resulted in it beading up a bit.
Cut your fingernails FFS
*Sharpens fingernails*