You’re Applying Miniatures to Bases Wrong…Here’s why
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- Опубліковано 30 чер 2024
- Jay goes over some tips and tricks for applying your miniatures to their bases or dioramas! We have new videos Monday, Wednesday and Friday! ANNDDD...We're Live streaming ALL WEEK! Thanks for watching! ALLLLSSOOOOOO.......................
@GeekGamingScenics Has a video out about slotted bases which we didn't cover in this video. Check it out here: • YOU’RE Using Miniature...
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#warhammer40k #howto #basing - Навчання та стиль
An additional trick with pinning:
.
Instead of cutting the wire underneath, bend it 90° and use that as an additional anchor point for glue. It's absolutely permanent. The base will crumble before the model moves.
Something I always do with my models is orient them in the back third of the base, NOT the center. This gives me more space in front of the model to make the bases more scenic, without the model being so far back it looks unbalanced. Great video!
Ya bud I think so to. Some I like in the middle depending on the shape size. Most are like you were saying. If I remember right. Some of the older model bases have a slit thats about 1/3 of the base, were you stick the bottom of the mini tab in there, Iv never had one of those break lol
The greenstuff below the feet for the mini to not look as sinking in the base is a great tip!
If you've ever been painting and went to shake your black templar contrast but forgot the lid was open....go ahead and hit that subscribe button
A fellow flanel daddy viewer I see 😆
Did that with my iyanden yellow once:(
oh that problem and i are gone due to my sweet droppers :P good vid, I agree to the techniques, lots of options in the hobby world.
How do I sub scribe more than once?
Speedpainting ….the whole room…
"You don't want to pin down 30 ork boyz."
This guy orks.
My girlfriend tells me Daniel Craig is a perfect looking bond.
first
I’ve been painting/wargaming for 20+ years and these tips are great. I wish I heard this stuff when I first started - lead figures & White Metal for the first 12!years in this hobby! Great channel
It seems that as time moves on, miniature designers take the bases into account more frequently. Pinning used to be nearly mandatory because there was almost no consideration for how to actually attach the model securely unless the miniature had a build-in slot for a slotted base.
For myself, I've moved to basing the miniature before painting, with the exception of a few troublesome models. It just saves me a lot of time - I don't have to try and avoid getting basing material on a painted model. Also with the exception of certain large, special models I don't tend to raise the miniature up on an extended base, so finishing the basing details first is more important because the miniature's feet are more integrated into the scenery.
Out of curiosity, for what reason would you do basing last? I see you say 'moved to basing first,' but I've always done basing first and see why anyone would leave it until they had a beautifully painted mini to ruin!
Ayyyy we did it boiis! We asked him to but minis on his bases and he did it literally in the next video 👏🏻🙌🏻 Nice one Jay 👈😎👈
You ask and you shall receive!
But now I just want to see more of those amazing minis!!
This video is what I need, just at the right moment. I just painted some bases for Slave Ogryns, but models aren't painted, and I wasn't sure how to do it right, when I'm ready to place them at base. All my questions answered.
Thank you, You are MVP
I started pinning my models recently and I love it.
I recently started getting back into Warhammer and such (15_ year hiatus from the hobby) and the idea of putting something under the feet to prop them up for basing is a great idea. Glad I saw it here so I can start doing that to prevent the look of models sinking into the ground.
I'm a heathen that always fully assembles and paints the model first, and then adds on to the base, working around my already attached model.
same, the pain when you use textured pastes
Subbed, this was great, good tips and you have a very clear style of explaining things.
As a consultant, i can appreciate this.
You're also very understanable and have a calm speaking voice.
Wish more people would do that :)
Thanks so much! I'm glad you liked the video and it's presentation! We'll have more like it soon!
Precisely what I was looking for! Thx!!
Love the channel (never wrote down a comment tho). I'm amazed at how raw your videos are: no glamshots, no shenanigans nor UA-camr BS just you getting stuff done.
Your content is a blast, I'm actually thinking of backwards engineering your basing tutorials to get some terrain done. These bases are a great quick catalogue for how an entire gaming table could look.
I hope you don't mind me sharing this video with Luke from geekgaming scenics: he put out a vid today about not fully inserting miniatures's tabs into their slotta bases to keep 'em raised and flock safely and that made me think of your vid.
Cheers 🤘
That's hilarious I just watched that video! Thanks so much! I'm really glad you like the videos and there will be many, many more! And yes! Please share with Luke :)
The space marines I have is from one of those starter kits, and the bases have a slit in each for the model, which has a bar of plastic that goes into the bases
Love those things
It’s great revisiting these older videos. EOB has come such a long way in 3 years.
Nice to see someone suggesting painting the base first. I think the fact that so many people paint the base last is why we see so many armies with unpainted bases: people finish the model then don't have the desire to paint the base and therefore leave it unfinished. Paint the base first and you won't get that problem!
You think for yourself and have decent ideas, i subscribe. Its so easy. Why 99% of UA-camr don't get it? Its the Magic formula xD
Glad you like us thinking! Who would have guessed that would help ;)
Super good advice, thank you!
super handy stuff, i have a new army coming in the mail and this will help. thanks kindly!
ive found it works great to attach the model to the base with a bit of blu-tack if you are doing a combat patrol and have no clue what to do with the base
2 things I learned; 1. use paper clips instead of expensive small long rods, and 2. Using a piece of sprue to give the models a little lift is super easy and convenient. Thanks!
Im' doing something similar since a year ago,using little nails (1 mm) glued only on the base.
So i can also detach my mins and pose them baseless.
I have to put some glue or paint on the needle to make it thicker and better fit the model.
I remember back in the day this wasnt a problem with GW because the damn things used to have strips on the bottom and the bases had slots in them
The idea to give smol models a plastic-to-plastic connection using sprue bits/plasticard is brilliant, I'm stealing it.
YOINK, mine now! : ^)
I came across this video at the perfect time. I've got about 40 ork boyz that I need to rip off of their 25mm bases to replace them with 32s, and I was dreading the process. (I've always put my models onto bases during the initial assembly). I've always been hesitant to glue a model onto a painted base, but now going to dive in and give it a shot.
I have been basing wrong 😂
I've come back to the hobby after almost 15 years away, I remember I could buy a box of tactical marines for £15..
I've been playing the LOTR sbg as that's what my mates are doing, and for basing those models I've assembled them, glued to the base, applied the base materials (I've got a Mordor army so I've gone with a gravelly look) by doing a whole layer of baking soda stuck with superglue (I find that it better represents fine rocks than sand at this scale) patches of actual sand, then patches of coarse sand with a few larger rocks. Then undercoating the entire model + base as one, then painting the base first before going at the model.
This was fine for the 36 Morranon Orcs I started with, they are posed well enough so it was easy to paint the entire model but now I've done the same with 12 Morgul Knights and it's a struggle to get at underneath the horses body/legs because of the large base and the various poses. I didn't glue the riders onto the mounts however (a few are magnetised anyway) so painting them will be a breeze.
I also bought on a whim the start collecting set for Chaos Space Marines, as I always love the models and did used to play 40k back in the day. I'll be using the techniques I've learned here and some basing ideas from some of your other videos to make it easier and hopefully let me do a better job on the painting side. This video was really useful, a lot of what you suggest is really really useful.
Thanks a bunch mate!
Super helpful as always
THANKS!!!! Glad you liked it! :)
Pinning manages to save me time by having a quick stick for me to paint.
Definitely worth the time I'd say.
good video, as for gluing i use something like gorllia glue i have some models that are around 10yrs old and the connection is still as strong gorilia glue is amazing for even one foot contacts as it bonds with a resin type glue not normal super glue
Hello Jay!
Since you're my go to when it comes to basing here on youtube I decided to ask directly about a problem I've gotten myself into.
Pinning drukhari wyches.
I went with rolling pin to create surface for my pirate space elves' bases. Wyches use sloted bases with a sliding bar attached to only one of their feet. Just the toes actually. I find it very difficult to drill at an angle into their slim foot and I've already ravaged one poor mini's foot by trying (I've made a leading hole before drilling). Could you please give me an advice on how should I attach them to the greenstuff world brown stuff covered bases when no glue is going to hold (tiny contact surface with ridges and 2 different materials to top it off)? If you dear comment reader have an idea I would very much appreciate any help too!
Love your content
Cheers
Great advice.
Great video, thanks a lot! I am a noob and so I want to know how do you even paint the model before it is glued to a base?
Great video, thanks!
Thank you!! Glad you liked it!
Question, I've done some custom bases using one of your tutorials and cobalt keep magnetic bases and run into the issue of the magnet being strong enough that the model can remove the top layer of the texture paste and come off the base entirely.
Any advice on how to avoid this issue?
I've solved it for some of them with a small amount of clear epoxy to help distribute the force when I'm pulling them up to remove them from my carrying case but wanted to know if you had any other suggestions.
5:40 dude in the middle's arms and legs look awesome, really like the blue and red.
I am doing some cork bases for my army, and airbrushing the bases and models separately. I was really uncertain about how to put them together afterwards, since I feared that painted surfaces (especially cork or resin) wouldn't provide a strong bond for superglue.
Do you think I could get away with gluing them?
If I make the base first, I usually use wood glue (thick white glue) to attach the models. I can put a blob under the model's feet, which helps with not flat surfaces, and it dries transparent. The downside it takes much longer to dry, but at least I don't have to use green stuff. I reccomend to try it out.
He marks the paper clip with the sharpy so he knows were to cut it ! I had a feeling it was a good idea to cut the paper clip with the plyers/wire cut rather then use the spru cuters. Thanks man.
Daamn, dude, finally found you after both you and me vanquished from BoLS :D
Sub'd.
Big mistake I made was I based 4 Death Company squads (20 models) on rocks that I got from a broken ceramic table that seemed study at the time and looked great but that have since broken from the feet of the models hundreds of times and at this point I see no solution because the rocks are too fragile to pin and I need them to retain their shape so other than spraying a matte varnish on them or something I have no idea. I guess the upside is that break away bases do seem to help from the smaller bits being broken off when they fall but it is guaranteed that the base will come off every time they get dropped which is a massive pain in the ass
When making bases with dirt or other natural ground cover, I like to roll out a thin sheet of greenstuff as the first layer of the base that I press my model's feet into. I don't put basing material into these footprints so that I can avoid "floating foot syndrome".
What's that?
@@kieranmelville5451 It's where the mini is standing on top of the base material instead of embeded within it. In extreme cases, it can make the model look like it's floating above and separate from the base.
@@DirtPoorWargamer How would you recommend solving this?
@@kieranmelville5451 He explained that in his initial post...
Hello.
Thank you for that video. Could you share how to aproach slotted bases?
Another great tutorial, my man.
~ Wolfbrother Methos
Thanks!!! Glad you liked it!!
Praise Russ! Praise the Emperor!
Little tip with greenstuff. Don't use the part where the two colours touch. It's already cured a bit. Cut that bit out and mix two "clean" halves
Generally yes. This green stuff was from army painter and I think they put a little petroleum or something between because it hasn’t hardened
Weird to see that you have pinned so many models. That's so time consuming, and surely not as strong as a poly cement bond! I was truly astonished by that revelation!
I know it's necroposting but as someone that always rages when basing small feet bloodbowl players (damn elves) thank you for the piece of sprue glued beneath the feet tip.
So in conclusion, I've never even heard of pinning until now and I was doing it right from the beginning.
Good tip about putting models on bits of putty when gluing them to the base, though, that should make it noticeably easier to apply basing up to and around the feet.
Genuinely curious and only asking because I spotted a few bottles in the background at the beginning of the video. What is your thoughts on Apple barrel paints?
Idk why the algorithm wanted to wait until now but hey glad to see the channel now at least!
we're glad too!
What about the bases with the push-fit into base component eg from the nighthaunt chainrasps.
Can you glue poster putty to the base then glue the model to the putty then layer it with pva for materials ?
Came her for advice on how to glue them to uneven surface., perfect idea with the greenstuff
I've always pinned pinned mine, but with heat. Before basing my models, attach a paperclip to a battery, punch it though the base snip, repeat till I have 20 or so bases. Then I make the bases pretty with the wire sticking out, then once I've painted the minis I re-heat the paper clip and melt it though the foot. Mt most it 40 minutes for 30 models and the hold is great.
I recently made a magnetic indiction rig that lets you do each base in a few seconds. Place the base at the top, run the paperclip though a ceramic guide in the magnetic coil till is through the base at the right hight. Add your texture, details and paint he base, put it back on the coils and slide the mini on.
Also a good quality moisture resistant PVA glue gives a long lasting elastic bond.
Hey so quick question. I just clipped some stabilizer flashing off my models legs. The legs have pointed tips so they won't glue well to the base and the flashing was meant to give a bit more surface area to remedy this problem.
So now I have an impressive model that can't stick to it's base as the leg tips are too sharp. This model is Kharybdis from warmachine. Any suggestions to help keep this model on its base?
Superglue becomes brittle over time. So does green stuff (unless properly painted or sealed). Therefore I use nowadays only 2-part epoxy. It lasts forever. As far as my experience goes :)
Fantastic
You can paint the model and base separate and then just glue together when finished pretty simple
I always glue mine down. Never tried pinning it I should probably try it before my Lancer eventually tips over
It's always good to give new methods a try!
pins are great. also if u got a top heavy model, a good heavy bolt or washer, or maybe a heavy coin glued in under the base can help weight it down, lowers its centre of gravity and stops it being tippy on the table. if u got a big base you can sort of coutnerbalance it, so if it naturally wants to tip over forwards you can glue a coin or 2 towards the back of the underside of the base to offset it.
3:35 me entering 2022 like:
"SHAITTTT" or in Orks terms "WAGHHH." 🤣
Im used to work with GW handle which requiresa base to work, could I pait the base - then glue the model onto it and just paint it? cause yea i agree whe ni have to base model already glued in and paitned its horrible and most of the time ruins details around feet
I watched this video while transferring my citadel paints to dropper bottles
@EonsOfBattle I ran into an issue when trying to use plastic cement on those pre-molded bases like what you showed for your death watch. The cement seemed to react much more heavily with whatever that light grey plastic GW uses for the detailed bases. I ended up with a goopy hole in one of the bases and the others barely fused to the models feet. Any idea what I was doing wrong or should I just stick to super glue and pinning for those types of base?
What type of plastic cement were you using? From my experience sometimes GW plastics don't react well to other companies' products.
@@Vnx I was using Citadel Plastic Glue
Another option is to magnetize your models feet to the base, but again, this is just as fiddly as pinning, but does mean you can swap out the bases of your minaitures if you want a change of scenery
I prefer to pin my models to my bases. I achieve this by drilling the hole in the base before I apply basing material and keep it clear with a weird little paperclip tool while the glue of the basing material sets.
i only pin models that have particularly tricky glue spots like models that are running with only 1 leg on the base
But what keeps the green stuff sticking to the feet of the model?
Honestly I like having a weak point in my models, i play on the floor a lot so it totally possible i stand on one and a sacrificial joint usually means it breaks and not the plastic.
I be like: Glue dude to base, paint base green, done
Solid advice. I just can't help but think of all of those poor paper clips. RIP, paper clips. RIP.
1:55 the glue under one of the bases looks like a skull.
Would have been a handy method to secure my Bullgryns if I hadn't saw into their bases to mod them with led lights.
As a fellow deathwatch player, where do you get your stormbolters from? The only way I can see is to kitbash from terminators or sternguard but I don’t have that kind of money. Any suggestions?
i buy mine from popgoesthemonkey on shapeways
with cork bases is it essential to pin, or can i simply use liquid super glue to attach the model? is there a likelihood of the cork peeling off if i do the latter? thanks
if your mini has big flat feet like a space marine you should be fine just using super glue. anything smaller than that you should probably pin.
@@EonsOfBattle i see, ty for the info!
Ummm what if I plastic glued my models to bare bases? How should I go about basing them
When gluing plastic minis to say a Cork base surface, would you just use normal super glue?
For that you can Super Glue or Pin(which also uses Super Glue). But Plastic Glue is right out!
Where did you get the robotdog at 3:00?
It's from anvil industry anvilindustry.co.uk/big-dog-robot
What do I do for a model I bought on ebay already glued to base
Can I ask what super glue you use? Whenever I've superglued models onto painted bases it's left a wired frosting around the glue where it dried
Excellent video though, thank you for it!
The baking soda acts as an activator and will turn the super glue hard like cement. This works best on superglue made with cyano-alacrolyte2
Come here let me
"SQUEEZE DOUGH CHEEKS!"
Now that's out the way Thank U
When I'm pinning my models I would just use cheap straight pins and heat them up and stick them in the foot and then cut off the top
Nice - you guys are collecting fallout mins - will we ever see more coverage for them on the channel?
I might paint them up one of these days, I’m a massive fallout new Vegas fan so I had to pick up the minis
@@minigamerjeonsofbattle9376 new Vegas minis are due to come in eaely 2021
Have you seen the NCR ranger that was released earlier this year as a promo?
Can you use custom space marine chapters in tournaments
absolutely underrated video. would love to give you 52413 likes!
All of my custodes are pinned, though it is due to using semi fragile rock as the basing material so super glue just rips some of the rock off with little provocation
My SOB thank you for this vid, damn those tactical heels
omg ty so much, the tin foil trick is what i got out of this!
silly putty is a good idea, never thought of that
The fallout baces are amazing
I prefer pinning. I don't use paperclips though. Paperclips are hard to cut with the standard clippers most people have in their modeling kit and will nick and break the blades on those cutter making you need to replace them sooner. Even with full size dikes the steel and nickel coating are so hard they will chip those blades out much sooner than they should. I prefer to use thin brass rod you can find at any decent hobby shop. I still don't use the cutters I use for cutting parts off of sprues. I have a smaller pair (six inch) of Harbor Freight dikes that use to cut the softer brass. It's much easier to cut and as far as the strength required of the material it's plenty strong enough. It's also easier to give the pinning a bit more strength because you can bend the brass to a 90 degree L shape to give more structure to the underside of the base.
I also plan out, position and glue the brass pins to the base before adding basing materials to not have to go through the hassle of trying to drill through sand or rock and eliminate the risk of damaging the basing work you've done. It may seem backwards to do it that way but if you drill the models first so you can test fit and position without gluing the pins into the model and leave the bit sticking out of the top of the base a bit long so I can add layers of scenics and trim it to fit perfect later. I know pinning sounds like a pain the ass when you have thirty Fire Warriors to do but I don't use a pin vise. I have one and several drill bits for it but I just find it to be a bit fidly. No matter how careful you try to be the things just wobble a bit and that can lead to plastic or drill bits breaking. I use a Dremel Stlyo instead. It's like a $30.00 tool you can hold like a pencil with a variable speed. It's nice and easy to hold straight and on the lowest speed it's not hard to keep control of and makes short work of even dozens of foot pin holes and gun barrels.
You are awesome
What is the yellowish stuff you use on the base at 6:12 ?
Milliput!
@@EonsOfBattle thanks !
Can you make a video on how to cover slotta bases?
Roll up some paper towel in the slot, then add super glue. Dries instantly, gets a little warm tho.
You can also put a piece of scotch tape over the slot then from underneath fill it with hot glue!
Big blob of PVA (white) glue!
woah maaaaaaaaan
Cool
You're cool!
Superglue and Baking Soda? i here that's a great way to make fishing lures.