Those curious, rock auto sells the part with bearing,hub,AND knuckle attached for an easier swap. I went that route cause I had 0 energy to press the bearings out.
I been trying to get my snap ring off for 3 days and spent over $300 on tools just to get it off.. any other tips please. My snap ring made just like in the video with no holes. The pointy tool just slips off. I used torches and all
Once you have the hub removed from the knuckle use your favorite rust penetrator/ dissolver and use liberally all around the snap ring, the entire key to the removal of the snap ring is you need to get the end of the ring (either side) away from its channel so you can slide something/anything behind the ring but in front of the channel it slips in , then you work a screwdriver around as he demonstrated at (5:40) of this video. A good quality set of picks is a must . To gain leverage with the pick once you get the tip behind the ring you can use a screwdriver behind the pick to press raise the ring out of the channel . A second set of hands to place the screw driver behind the exposed ring helps while you are getting the clearance to do so with the pick . Watch and cover your ring when it is close to coming out & as I have seen the ring fly with some real velocity.
Takes a LOT of perserverence. For the first bearing, I spent over eight total hours trying to shimmy and hammer and force screwdrivers and picks under the ring, before finally getting it off. For the second bearing, I ended up grinding away a portion of the "lip" that holds the snap ring in, near one of the ends of the snap ring. That made it a little easier to get a small screwdriver under the ring in order to pry it out the rest of the way. It's not an elegant solution, but it worked and saved me HOURS of frustration. But I did see a homemade tool on UA-cam (looks like a large, angled pick) that made the work look incredibly easy.
An auto repair shop is telling me the entire CONTROL ARM , not just the wheel bearing, needs to be replaced. A friend is telling me it just needs what is being done in this video. ANY ADVICE ???
10:26 also... NEVER loosen it to line up the holes . If you arnt strong enough to turn it anymore..... take off the nut, hammer the taper to pop it out.... and start COMPLETELY over . You CAN NOT loosen it off, then tighten it again (with out hammering the joint to pop the taper free) . . . You can get them too tight and Crack the taper.... but with this cast iron steering knuckle, that's hard to do (aluminum is easy to Crack if you go to like 250 when spec is 25 lol) . . . Tldr... NEVER loosen Always tighten . And if you can't tighten anymore....start COMPLETELY over
Idk why nobody else spotted this but the rotors aren't facing the right way. If it cross slotted/drilled.. the holes face the direction of the rotation.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Those curious, rock auto sells the part with bearing,hub,AND knuckle attached for an easier swap.
I went that route cause I had 0 energy to press the bearings out.
I have an 05' Sentra but will use this as a reference since all the Sentra bearing vids are garbage. Well done bro!
Really good quality video man! Thanks for the content
How do you know which side of the bearing faces the abs if neither side is magnetic?
I hammered the axle bolt and mushroom the end before watching this what would be a good fix to get axle nut back on
yeaaa this is one im gonna have to take to the shop dont have a press
Could you put the hub in the Bering first and then press the bearing and hub into the knuckle together?
No grease needed between the bearing and knuckle or hub and bearing when installing?
Thanks!
I been trying to get my snap ring off for 3 days and spent over $300 on tools just to get it off.. any other tips please. My snap ring made just like in the video with no holes. The pointy tool just slips off. I used torches and all
Once you have the hub removed from the knuckle use your favorite rust penetrator/ dissolver and use liberally all around the snap ring, the entire key to the removal of the snap ring is you need to get the end of the ring (either side) away from its channel so you can slide something/anything behind the ring but in front of the channel it slips in , then you work a screwdriver around as he demonstrated at (5:40) of this video. A good quality set of picks is a must . To gain leverage with the pick once you get the tip behind the ring you can use a screwdriver behind the pick to press raise the ring out of the channel . A second set of hands to place the screw driver behind the exposed ring helps while you are getting the clearance to do so with the pick . Watch and cover your ring when it is close to coming out & as I have seen the ring fly with some real velocity.
Takes a LOT of perserverence. For the first bearing, I spent over eight total hours trying to shimmy and hammer and force screwdrivers and picks under the ring, before finally getting it off. For the second bearing, I ended up grinding away a portion of the "lip" that holds the snap ring in, near one of the ends of the snap ring. That made it a little easier to get a small screwdriver under the ring in order to pry it out the rest of the way. It's not an elegant solution, but it worked and saved me HOURS of frustration. But I did see a homemade tool on UA-cam (looks like a large, angled pick) that made the work look incredibly easy.
does it matter if the car gets replaced with non abs bearings ??
You will have an abs light on and no traction/stability control or ABS
An auto repair shop is telling me the entire CONTROL ARM , not just the wheel bearing, needs to be replaced. A friend is telling me it just needs what is being done in this video. ANY ADVICE ???
Heads up buy bearings already pressed in.
+@Cedd2times Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
10:26 also... NEVER loosen it to line up the holes
.
If you arnt strong enough to turn it anymore..... take off the nut, hammer the taper to pop it out.... and start COMPLETELY over
.
You CAN NOT loosen it off, then tighten it again (with out hammering the joint to pop the taper free)
.
.
.
You can get them too tight and Crack the taper.... but with this cast iron steering knuckle, that's hard to do (aluminum is easy to Crack if you go to like 250 when spec is 25 lol)
.
.
.
Tldr... NEVER loosen
Always tighten
.
And if you can't tighten anymore....start COMPLETELY over
Idk why nobody else spotted this but the rotors aren't facing the right way. If it cross slotted/drilled.. the holes face the direction of the rotation.
Like a pro👍 Very nice presentation!! Thank you
A 2207 Nissan Maxima 3.5 se is non abs correct?
Wrpng
It is abs
Thanks
thank you
Last comment ... my car is a 2006 Nissan Maxima SL ...
This is the front correct
Yeah its the front
Good money