Tried it yesterday together with a couple kids I'm coaching. For some, this was their first moonboard boulder. They could send with very little moonboard experience. I personally think the start / first move is a bit hard, because anything with open hips fells quite hard for me ;) Please post more moonboard videos. I like them and as you said it's noice to be able to repeat/try the problems yourself.
Another skill I can’t do 😭😂 Will be glad to be one of many judges of “This gotta be the easiest”? Really fun that at the beginning of the video that you were naming all the cross sections and didn’t make sense, but at the end, it made perfect sense. Learning new stuff is so cool. 🙏👏
Was so excited to try this because I recently tried the moonboard and couldn't do any of the easiest V3s. Then found out the one at my gym is 2019 and you made on in the 2016 board. Reeeeeeeeeeeeee
Muscle up aren't climbing exclusive, climbing videos on the other hand.... are focused towards a fixed group of climbers so it's quite normal that you got better results with the muscle ups or general training. I'll try your route tho :). Edit: my gym has the 2017 holds RIP
Adding to what you said RE the popularity of board videos- my gym only has a kilter board. I would love to try any problems you set (I am in a similar boat as I tried the board once when I first started climbing and couldn't hold the start, so I haven't tried it since. If you did this video for the kilter board I would try your problem tomorrow). I see you and Hoseok on the board and it inspires me but I don't feel as much of a connection since I don't have access to a moon board
The closest Kilter board to me is about 1~1.5 hrs away from me, but I will definitely try to visit that gym because I really like the Kilter board, so stay tuned!
Hey I know its ten months later so you might have gotten strong enough to do that problem but if not you can always find easier lines of your own. Less dynamic movement and try to stick to the bigger holds. I know I struggled super hard on my first little while on the moonboard but then one session it just kinda "clicked" and I started being able to do the moves. Maybe the Kilter board will be the same?
Nice problem! In my experience moon board grades typically bridge the gap between indoor gym boulders and outdoor boulders. This one looks more like a V1/V2 moonboard problem just because of the sheer amount of holds. Plus none of the movement requires "proper technique"
So, I was working on this climb once a week for a month or so. It was supposed to be my first problem on a moonboard that I will send. I was only missing matching at the top to finish it. And yesterday I come to the gym and they replaced old 2016 set with newest 2024 set. Now Im sad.
I've tried multiple times but I cannot find the problem, nor you in the setters...I'm new to moonboard so maybe I'm doing something wrong?(moonboard is 2016 version) ...
Tbh, I actually thought this one was kinda hard, mainly because there were so many hold choices that I wasn't climbing it in the most efficient way possible and pumped out. If you want a really easy Moonboard problem, try "Little Dyno V2" or "Road to Lord Reidun V3." The easiest benchmark V4 is probably "Bitter".
Anyone got tips on how to perform the first move when there isn't another wall next to the board? Can I back-step without using my right leg for support somehow? Great video btw!
Interesting that people think your gym is soft. We're familiar with Sender One, Touchstone, Stronghold, Planet Granite and Mesa Rim (and also a bit of the Climb in Hongdae and PRG). The setting at Mission Valley was by far the stiffest we've been on. Their routes are almost a full # grade harder than Sender One (so, like, 10a there feels like 10d here).
I agree with you. Mesa Rim Mission Valley is not soft at all, but people just tend to think the climbs look easier than they actually are. I am guilty of it, too. I am working on a local outdoor V7 now and I thought it was going to be easy when I watched other people doing it on UA-cam, but when I tried it myself, it completely destroyed me.
I'll give it a go today and try to setup my phone in a way to record and upload it. If I can get the phone to record my attempt it will be up this after noon.
gym climbing became an olympic sport, how people can say its not real climbing is beyond me. running on a track instead of in nature isnt real running? what about swimming in a pool instead of in the ocean? come on man..
I personally think they are two different sports with a lot in common, the holds in a gym can't recreate the real feel of the rocks, the research of the holds, the micro adjustments and so on, and the rocks can't recreate the holds of the gym, the parkour like moves and so on. Both fun, both climbing, both sports but different ones
outdoor climbers are not really interested in whether indoor climbing is an olympic sport or not. the olympics has no bearing on our opinion. probably in the same way that trail runners dont care whether track running is an olympic sport, theyre just different things.
how many degrees does your moonboard slant back? I am asking this because the moonboard at the gym where I train is inclined 40 degrees and I found this route massively difficult to top! Despite that I managed to top it (and this was my first top on the MB, yay!) and I am really thankful for your inspiration and your instructions!
the default is 40 degrees and all problems are set with that in mind. Some boards can be adjusted to make problems easier or harder to your hearts content, but 40 degrees is the standard.
Not sure why those people are so against indoor gyms, it isn't like it stops them from going out and doing a trad route. Of course indoor isn't the same or as hard as outdoor, but the gym isn't meant to simulate outdoors, it is meant for training and having fun. Where I live you get maybe 6 months of outdoor climbing if you are lucky, so unless you want to take a flight to somewhere with a warm crag or do some ice climbing, you are stuck with the gym. Indoor climbing is a great tool to get strong for the summer.
They are pissy about soft grading so the gyms get business. They don’t like encountering new people at the crag that think they are strong af. But in reality climbing outside isn’t harder, it just takes some getting used to
don't forget to mention which kind of moonboard you use, friend... it's a 2016 40° moonboard, right? i will give this problem a try if i see this kind of board the next time. i have to admit that watching someone climb looks always easier than it actual is :D i tried a 6A+ here (which translates into V3, i guess?) and i failed horrible. maybe because this moonboard combines like every of my weaknesses (tiny holds, overhang, bad bodypositions for my size) or maybe because i tried it after a 2h session xD and the reason why your muscle up videos have way more clicks: guys from different sports are interested into that (gymnastics, bodybuilder and so on) while climbing progress (mostly) only interests climbers.
Yeah, it's the 2016 board. I forgot to mention it and I just updated the title with that information. Looks like it's time to make another calisthenics video to get views, haha.
@@GeekClimber well work is work and fun is fun :-P i think a thumbnail with like FIRST V7!!! would get more attention then your ninjakick in 4 days. and as you may noticed tutorial and cooperation-videos get more clicks because a wider range of people would watch it. maybe try out this "gripgenie stuff" of jujimufu and tom. guess a lot of guys would be interested how an "average" climber can handle these. also you can compare yourself with guys like magnus midboe or the eric karlson crew :)
I have some pretty fun/cool 4's/5's set on the Kilter board if you're interested in trying them out. Would love to hear your opinion on the moves! Look up 'dkimber' on the app.
@@GeekClimber Not sure.. I had my app to be set up with a couple of boards. Including one that was maxed out. I'll have another look tonight when I'm back at the gym... Thanks for the reply.
How to moonboard 101: step 1: try to do the first move but your feet slip off DAMN IT! step 2: push through the toe and do the first move at almost full extension step 3 v1: do some kind of foot-hand match step 3 v2: jump and latch something step 4: fail, fail, fail step 5: wonder why the benchmarks are so hard step 6: finally send and post a video to instagram that nobody will understand
Looks like you used a greedy algorithm to develop this. 😂. Pretty effective but not necessarily optimal. I wonder if you start some where else a little bit harder if you could make something even easier.
there are a lot of them, and even more in climbing than bouldering. you don't meet them if you mainly boulder inside cos they are too busy outside being awesome or whatever
Nice problem, personally I don't think it's really a v3 in the sense that moonboard grading or difficulty in many ways exists in its own world of being sandbagged and difficulty largely due to the design of the board and its purpose of being a training tool. In general almost all moonboard problems will be much harder and physically demanding compared to their gym counterparts but again, that's largely due to design. I think that by adding feet everywhere and only using the absolute best holds on the moonboard in an attempt to emulate typical gym grades sort of defeats the purpose? Why not just climb a gym v3 or v4 on your gyms overhanging section, is it really moonboarding if it's purposely set to be as far away as possible from other moonboard problems? Again, nothing but love, just sharing my thoughts. Keep on killing Geekclimber!
The biggest selling point for the boards like Moon, Tension, Kilter, in my opinion, is the replicability. People can climb the same thing no matter where they are. I can make a generic climbing tip video out of a gym V3 or V4, but then people can't try out the tips on the exact same climbs. I think some people will end up not fully grasping the tips because they have to interpret them themselves and apply them to the climbs in their own gym. For the boards, there won't be such problems. I can watch beta from stronger climbers in Europe or Asia and apply the same beta myself. I think this kind of benefit from standardized boards shouldn't be limited to strong climbers only. Tension and Kilter are great because there are V0s/V1s in them but unfortunately not in the Moonboard. Moonboard seems to be the most widespread because it's the first OG board but I think Ben Moon designed it without taking beginner/intermediate climbers into consideration. Anyways, hope this explanation makes sense to you!
@@GeekClimber Totally, I think the ability to share and the replicability is truly a valuable thing.You're right moonboards design probably didn't take into consideration beginner to intermediate climbers, I feel like that sort of is my point though? It's really difficult for beginners to intermediate to moonboard simply because the holds are small, sharp, on 40 degree overhang and set in style that requires prerequisite skills in locking off, body tension and dynamic movement. I'm just questioning whether setting problems that are very much not in benchmark moonboard style as effective at bridging the gap for beginner climbers compared to just more gym climbing. Like it's almost impossible to set a gym v1 on the moonboard since you're limited to 14 moves and none of the holds are juggy enough for that, would it not be better for climbers in v1-3 range to keep climbing as their skills and strength accrue and perhaps climb on boards like the kilter where you can adjust the difficulty by adjusting the wall angle, then to move onto moonboard? Similar to how people are highly discouraged from hangboarding early on in their climbing and wouldn't be advisable for beginners to hangboard with an assistance band, isn't the moonboard specifically out of all the boards the same way? High chance of finger injury especially if now adequately strong enough and forcing moves etc. Regardless, I appreciate what you're trying to do and provide more content and sharing board climbing experiences to people at all levels.
Moonboard in my experience is designed for intermediate to advanced level climbers no way should beginners or even v3 highest climbers should get on one. I'm a v5 climber and struggle with our gyms "v3" moonboard
@@shinraninja They should be able to, it's just that the problems are too hard. Easier problems like this one make it easier to start using the moonboard.
I don't think the moon board is a great training tool. Kilterboard is much more similar to actual climbing, and the grades are connected to our empirical reality.
The Moonboard = ultimate sandbag. All the more satisfying when you finally get to the top though!
I think this is a great way to expose people to the Moon board. Thanks!
Yes, this route could be the gateway for people to start climbing on the moonboard!
I was waiting for "and now, complete a dyno, skipping 5 rows to the tiny crimp finish hold."
😆🤣😆
Im so so happy you made this! I've tried moonboards for months no and haven't been even able to start most of them. Gonna check this out later!
Dude, definitely try it out and let me know!
Tried it yesterday together with a couple kids I'm coaching. For some, this was their first moonboard boulder. They could send with very little moonboard experience. I personally think the start / first move is a bit hard, because anything with open hips fells quite hard for me ;) Please post more moonboard videos. I like them and as you said it's noice to be able to repeat/try the problems yourself.
Another skill I can’t do 😭😂 Will be glad to be one of many judges of “This gotta be the easiest”? Really fun that at the beginning of the video that you were naming all the cross sections and didn’t make sense, but at the end, it made perfect sense. Learning new stuff is so cool. 🙏👏
Jon, you gotta give this one a try and tag me on Instagram!
Geek Climber yes, I will give it a try this Saturday since I should be down there. Plan to warm up before this “alleged warm up”. 😂
Was so excited to try this because I recently tried the moonboard and couldn't do any of the easiest V3s. Then found out the one at my gym is 2019 and you made on in the 2016 board. Reeeeeeeeeeeeee
I forgot to mention it's the 2016 board. I updated the title to reflect that. I will try to find a 2019 board and play around with it!
Muscle up aren't climbing exclusive, climbing videos on the other hand.... are focused towards a fixed group of climbers so it's quite normal that you got better results with the muscle ups or general training. I'll try your route tho :). Edit: my gym has the 2017 holds RIP
Does that mean it's time for me to make more muscle up videos? 😆
Sort by repeats. Difficulty ranking is a lot better with that
This guy moonboards!
Our gym in northern Finland is getting a moon board soon, looking forward to go global :)
Adding to what you said RE the popularity of board videos- my gym only has a kilter board. I would love to try any problems you set (I am in a similar boat as I tried the board once when I first started climbing and couldn't hold the start, so I haven't tried it since. If you did this video for the kilter board I would try your problem tomorrow). I see you and Hoseok on the board and it inspires me but I don't feel as much of a connection since I don't have access to a moon board
The closest Kilter board to me is about 1~1.5 hrs away from me, but I will definitely try to visit that gym because I really like the Kilter board, so stay tuned!
@@GeekClimber So I tried the easiest problem on the kilter board today and couldn't do it so I will definitely stay tuned 😂😂
Hey I know its ten months later so you might have gotten strong enough to do that problem but if not you can always find easier lines of your own. Less dynamic movement and try to stick to the bigger holds. I know I struggled super hard on my first little while on the moonboard but then one session it just kinda "clicked" and I started being able to do the moves. Maybe the Kilter board will be the same?
I can’t wait to try this!! Thank you 😊
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
Nice problem! In my experience moon board grades typically bridge the gap between indoor gym boulders and outdoor boulders. This one looks more like a V1/V2 moonboard problem just because of the sheer amount of holds. Plus none of the movement requires "proper technique"
Yea, I agree it could pass as a hard V2.
So, I was working on this climb once a week for a month or so. It was supposed to be my first problem on a moonboard that I will send. I was only missing matching at the top to finish it. And yesterday I come to the gym and they replaced old 2016 set with newest 2024 set. Now Im sad.
I've tried multiple times but I cannot find the problem, nor you in the setters...I'm new to moonboard so maybe I'm doing something wrong?(moonboard is 2016 version) ...
Was wondering this myself. Managed one V4 benchmark but struggled on the first moves of some V3s the last time I tried the moonboard.
Tbh, I actually thought this one was kinda hard, mainly because there were so many hold choices that I wasn't climbing it in the most efficient way possible and pumped out. If you want a really easy Moonboard problem, try "Little Dyno V2" or "Road to Lord Reidun V3." The easiest benchmark V4 is probably "Bitter".
My nearest Moonboard is 50 miles away. I'll try to get there sometime though, and try out your route.
Definitely try it out and let me know!
Hey I can't find the problem anymore on the Moonboard app?
Can you please do a similar Kilter board problem! My gym only has Kilter
The closest Kilter to me is about 1~1.5 hrs away from me, but I will definitely make it happen sometime in the future!
You could do a climbing progression video of something at Santee or Culp Valley before it gets too hot.
I wish my gym had a moonboard there's plenty of room for one. I wonder why it doesn't. Anyway if I can find one I'm definitely trying this problem
Anyone got tips on how to perform the first move when there isn't another wall next to the board? Can I back-step without using my right leg for support somehow? Great video btw!
Is it on a 40 degrees angle or 25 ? It looks 25 to me but not sure
Thx!
Interesting that people think your gym is soft. We're familiar with Sender One, Touchstone, Stronghold, Planet Granite and Mesa Rim (and also a bit of the Climb in Hongdae and PRG). The setting at Mission Valley was by far the stiffest we've been on. Their routes are almost a full # grade harder than Sender One (so, like, 10a there feels like 10d here).
I agree with you. Mesa Rim Mission Valley is not soft at all, but people just tend to think the climbs look easier than they actually are. I am guilty of it, too. I am working on a local outdoor V7 now and I thought it was going to be easy when I watched other people doing it on UA-cam, but when I tried it myself, it completely destroyed me.
I can’t seem to find it in the app???
I'll give it a go today and try to setup my phone in a way to record and upload it. If I can get the phone to record my attempt it will be up this after noon.
Can't find the problem listed when I search it.
gym climbing became an olympic sport, how people can say its not real climbing is beyond me.
running on a track instead of in nature isnt real running? what about swimming in a pool instead of in the ocean? come on man..
Totally agree with you, man! Fortunately, these people seem to only exist on the internet. I haven't had the chance to meet one in person yet.
I personally think they are two different sports with a lot in common, the holds in a gym can't recreate the real feel of the rocks, the research of the holds, the micro adjustments and so on, and the rocks can't recreate the holds of the gym, the parkour like moves and so on. Both fun, both climbing, both sports but different ones
outdoor climbers are not really interested in whether indoor climbing is an olympic sport or not. the olympics has no bearing on our opinion. probably in the same way that trail runners dont care whether track running is an olympic sport, theyre just different things.
how many degrees does your moonboard slant back? I am asking this because the moonboard at the gym where I train is inclined 40 degrees and I found this route massively difficult to top! Despite that I managed to top it (and this was my first top on the MB, yay!) and I am really thankful for your inspiration and your instructions!
the default is 40 degrees and all problems are set with that in mind. Some boards can be adjusted to make problems easier or harder to your hearts content, but 40 degrees is the standard.
Not sure why those people are so against indoor gyms, it isn't like it stops them from going out and doing a trad route. Of course indoor isn't the same or as hard as outdoor, but the gym isn't meant to simulate outdoors, it is meant for training and having fun. Where I live you get maybe 6 months of outdoor climbing if you are lucky, so unless you want to take a flight to somewhere with a warm crag or do some ice climbing, you are stuck with the gym. Indoor climbing is a great tool to get strong for the summer.
They are pissy about soft grading so the gyms get business. They don’t like encountering new people at the crag that think they are strong af. But in reality climbing outside isn’t harder, it just takes some getting used to
don't forget to mention which kind of moonboard you use, friend... it's a 2016 40° moonboard, right? i will give this problem a try if i see this kind of board the next time.
i have to admit that watching someone climb looks always easier than it actual is :D i tried a 6A+ here (which translates into V3, i guess?) and i failed horrible. maybe because this moonboard combines like every of my weaknesses (tiny holds, overhang, bad bodypositions for my size) or maybe because i tried it after a 2h session xD
and the reason why your muscle up videos have way more clicks: guys from different sports are interested into that (gymnastics, bodybuilder and so on) while climbing progress (mostly) only interests climbers.
Yeah, it's the 2016 board. I forgot to mention it and I just updated the title with that information. Looks like it's time to make another calisthenics video to get views, haha.
@@GeekClimber well work is work and fun is fun :-P
i think a thumbnail with like FIRST V7!!! would get more attention then your ninjakick in 4 days. and as you may noticed tutorial and cooperation-videos get more clicks because a wider range of people would watch it.
maybe try out this "gripgenie stuff" of jujimufu and tom. guess a lot of guys would be interested how an "average" climber can handle these. also you can compare yourself with guys like magnus midboe or the eric karlson crew :)
I have some pretty fun/cool 4's/5's set on the Kilter board if you're interested in trying them out. Would love to hear your opinion on the moves! Look up 'dkimber' on the app.
Dude I am interested! I will definitely try them out next time I visit a gym that has a Kilter board!
Refreshed my app but this problem isn't showing up... hmmmm... anyone else?
Is the Moonboard you have in your gym the 2016 version?
@@GeekClimber Not sure.. I had my app to be set up with a couple of boards. Including one that was maxed out. I'll have another look tonight when I'm back at the gym... Thanks for the reply.
@@GeekClimber I also can't find this problem. I'm on app version 133
Pretty sure the holds on your moon board different to the one I have at my local
Yeah, it's the 2016 board and I just updated the title with that. What version of Moonboard do you have in your gym?
@@GeekClimber i think its a newer one but they said they added plastic holds so i think its modified - i will ask them let you know :)
@@GeekClimber apparently mines 2017 one ;o
How to moonboard 101:
step 1: try to do the first move but your feet slip off DAMN IT!
step 2: push through the toe and do the first move at almost full extension
step 3 v1: do some kind of foot-hand match
step 3 v2: jump and latch something
step 4: fail, fail, fail
step 5: wonder why the benchmarks are so hard
step 6: finally send and post a video to instagram that nobody will understand
why not just use ALL the holds xD
look again and make A-B repeat at 3:25
Apologies I didn't actually finish the video and also attempted using all the holds with the same message on my app appearing
Because you are only allowed to use 14 of them. On top of that, I think having all holds as an option makes it more complicated.
Can I ask why you graded the route as v4? If its the easiest, shouldnt it be v2/3?
you can't grade it lower on the app
The app doesn't allow me to grade lower than v4 unfortunately.
Geek Climber thank you for replying. How is your finger injury btw? Was it an a2 injury?
I am 100% recovered! It was a tendon strain.
Geek Climber that’s great to hear. Did you do any video on your recovery methods?
I reckon THE BAT is easier, especially if you added extra feet.
I remember G9 isn’t a good one, and if you skip it and go directly to H10, that’s big. I will try it out in my next session to get a feel of it.
Hoseok recently put out a video where he does muscle-ups with hands together ( ua-cam.com/video/WMxcv6WPq18/v-deo.html ). Fancy having a go at that? 😛
That looks hard haha. Let me try it at the gym and see how feasible it is.
@@GeekClimber Yep, looks ridiculous! Maybe work out what your 'natural' hand spacing is, then see how far in you can go?
Looks like you used a greedy algorithm to develop this. 😂. Pretty effective but not necessarily optimal. I wonder if you start some where else a little bit harder if you could make something even easier.
Lol sounds like the v0's on the tension board
I think this is still harder than a V0 😆.
@@GeekClimber 😂
The easier route is if you allow all the holds.
Allowing all holds is actually more confusing IMO. Gotta lay down the exact path!
5:19 Based Downvotes
I didn't know climbers had elitist. wow.
I only saw them on the Internet though. Never get to meet one in real life.
there are a lot of them, and even more in climbing than bouldering. you don't meet them if you mainly boulder inside cos they are too busy outside being awesome or whatever
Feels like v0-
Nice problem, personally I don't think it's really a v3 in the sense that moonboard grading or difficulty in many ways exists in its own world of being sandbagged and difficulty largely due to the design of the board and its purpose of being a training tool. In general almost all moonboard problems will be much harder and physically demanding compared to their gym counterparts but again, that's largely due to design. I think that by adding feet everywhere and only using the absolute best holds on the moonboard in an attempt to emulate typical gym grades sort of defeats the purpose? Why not just climb a gym v3 or v4 on your gyms overhanging section, is it really moonboarding if it's purposely set to be as far away as possible from other moonboard problems? Again, nothing but love, just sharing my thoughts. Keep on killing Geekclimber!
The biggest selling point for the boards like Moon, Tension, Kilter, in my opinion, is the replicability. People can climb the same thing no matter where they are. I can make a generic climbing tip video out of a gym V3 or V4, but then people can't try out the tips on the exact same climbs. I think some people will end up not fully grasping the tips because they have to interpret them themselves and apply them to the climbs in their own gym. For the boards, there won't be such problems. I can watch beta from stronger climbers in Europe or Asia and apply the same beta myself. I think this kind of benefit from standardized boards shouldn't be limited to strong climbers only. Tension and Kilter are great because there are V0s/V1s in them but unfortunately not in the Moonboard. Moonboard seems to be the most widespread because it's the first OG board but I think Ben Moon designed it without taking beginner/intermediate climbers into consideration. Anyways, hope this explanation makes sense to you!
@@GeekClimber Totally, I think the ability to share and the replicability is truly a valuable thing.You're right moonboards design probably didn't take into consideration beginner to intermediate climbers, I feel like that sort of is my point though? It's really difficult for beginners to intermediate to moonboard simply because the holds are small, sharp, on 40 degree overhang and set in style that requires prerequisite skills in locking off, body tension and dynamic movement. I'm just questioning whether setting problems that are very much not in benchmark moonboard style as effective at bridging the gap for beginner climbers compared to just more gym climbing. Like it's almost impossible to set a gym v1 on the moonboard since you're limited to 14 moves and none of the holds are juggy enough for that, would it not be better for climbers in v1-3 range to keep climbing as their skills and strength accrue and perhaps climb on boards like the kilter where you can adjust the difficulty by adjusting the wall angle, then to move onto moonboard? Similar to how people are highly discouraged from hangboarding early on in their climbing and wouldn't be advisable for beginners to hangboard with an assistance band, isn't the moonboard specifically out of all the boards the same way? High chance of finger injury especially if now adequately strong enough and forcing moves etc. Regardless, I appreciate what you're trying to do and provide more content and sharing board climbing experiences to people at all levels.
Moonboard in my experience is designed for intermediate to advanced level climbers no way should beginners or even v3 highest climbers should get on one. I'm a v5 climber and struggle with our gyms "v3" moonboard
@@shinraninja They should be able to, it's just that the problems are too hard. Easier problems like this one make it easier to start using the moonboard.
I don't think the moon board is a great training tool. Kilterboard is much more similar to actual climbing, and the grades are connected to our empirical reality.
This route is V0