Moonboard Coaching from a Pro (How to Improve Board Climbing Skills)
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Intro
00:14 Why system boards?
00:48 Underclings and footwork efficiency
03:24 Unequal finger vs shoulder strength
05:22 External rotators and scapular form
09:02 Creating balanced shoulders to rip off holds
12:10 Training abs vs core for roof climbing
16:51 Functional example of front-lever movement
19:45 Shoulder awareness in disadvantaged positions
23:56 Big reachy move technique and safety
28:30 Getting everything out of holds
31:05 Like the video if you want more!
// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 107
AOC Episode: 6
Climb: BFF Fundamentals
Climber: Joyce BFF Fundamentals V3 - Joyce @__bringsmejoy.MOV
Grade: V3
Notes:
The match there is going to load the forearms more than the lats would, just like how narrow pulls can
Transitions into reachy moves that will require good shoulder stability and lat activation
Practice alternate footwork to make the climb a bit easier
Climb: Dark Energy
Climber: Aidan
Grade: V11
Notes:
Great example of some wonderful strength to weight ratio and contact strength. Flying around the wall with just pure forearm and finger strength. Not sure about the technique if he could have kept his feet on the wall better but hey, he sent, that’s what matters.
The last move is nuts. Such a wide span with his farms and great ability to change the left hand from a straight downpull to a side catch to create opposition. Great reactions, great contact strength, and body to weight ratio. Training Tip: contact strength
The wide position means that scapula retractors (rhomboids, mid / low scap) for example will be lengthened and in a weakened position. This also means that there will be a chance of less stability in the shoulders (posterior delt
Climb: Moon is Believing
Climber: Kai Ohki
Grade: 8A
Notes:
There’s this exercise I nickname the “no pyramid” it’s a relatively easy exercise… if you do it wrong. It’s quite challenging if you do it correct. It works the external rotators in this exact position and helps create stability when working cross moves like this. Training Tip: “no pyramid” serratus flexion with external rotation (band at wrists or hands)
Climb: The Tell-Tale Heart
Climber: Florian
Grade: 7A
Notes:
Really cool final move. The position he is in creates a lot of internal rotation so he is definitely using the pec major, subscapularis, and of course the lats. But, this needs to be countered by something aka the external rotators. If you’re lacking strength in this muscle group it can absolutely increase your injury risk. Hence, the importance of ER strengthening.
Climb: dddd60
Climber: Dustin Dunkin
Grade:
Notes:
I just immediately loved this because what the heck, is that really 70 degrees?! That’s madness. Also… he does like 17 moves and hasn’t gone anywhere haha, what a fun climb :)
Lot’s of skills used here, starting off double undercling, bicycle move, some deadpointing. I was just waiting for the double bathang off the top…
Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/t...
// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk.
// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt
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Oh what you all are doing is ridiculous. It's fantastic
I want to say that I absolutely love your channel it helped me get so much more cautious of my body and my weaknesses !! I was also wondering, we can often see big moves or big loads on joints in climbing and we tend to forget the elbows and knees, if possible I'd like to have your take on how and even if we should strengthen our connective tissue (other than our fingers🤌)
Nice to see these analyses. Why not try them yourself on the moonboard. So you can really explain us how the better movements feel when you execute them on the board.
Ooo I love that idea!! Can’t believe I hadn’t thought of that
Thanks for putting my clip in!
Keep crushin’ dood!
Super interesting video! Makes you realize how complex climbing is from an anatomical perspective.
Absolutely! The amount of structures, levers, and forces involved is amazing
Thanks for the amazing commentary and tips. Definetly gonna take them with me in the future and try the climb again!!🤙🏼
The amount of depth of these analyses involve in crazily helpful. 😱
I never thought consciously of leading with the trunk or where my trunk is when hitting a hold, but I'm definitely going to pay more attention to this. The details Daniel pointed out in terms of being slightly to the left/right/upward with the body are those small things that many of us just don't pay attention to, but they can make the difference when climbing at your limit. Thanks heaps for these videos!
Glad it helps!
Happy climbing!
Great video!
I love it! It helps me to realise my own mistakes when I have this visual picture through video clips.
Thanks, these videos help a ton! I just recently started board climbing and this content boosts my progress a lot. Many subtle cues have made seemingly impossible moves fairly easy. Keep it up, please! Really appreciate this!
love these videos with Dan
underrated channel and vid. great break down with practical takeaways. thank you
I've missed this series! One of my favorites. I always learn so much
One of our favorites too!
This is incredible. MORE!!!
Keep em coming
Really good video! It helped me understand how important the rotator muscles are. Also I had the idea that it’s alway pull with a straight arm but I guess there are a lot of people exceptions with that rule.
27:44 it is always good practice to think with your head and generate with your bottom; never the other way around.
😂 wise words!!
Dan is the best ever! Also does he have a skincare routine?
Awesome!
'as soon as you start realizing you're not taking full advantage of a hold, theres at least some question as to why'. Pefect summary of the video 20 seconds from the end.
Love the info, hopefully at least some of it sticks in my head for the next couple sessions
Totally agree!
appreciate the breakdown on how to climb better for roof! i struggle with bat hangs so bad :")
also thanks for the analysis on my video!! i really wasn't proud of that send, was confused half the time, and felt that it could have been better though i wasn't sure how. great advice from you guys!
You did great!! It was a fun one to analyze. Thanks for sending in the footage!
Great vid. Thanks Jason Dan & Emile. Nice to see my local board at the end! Cheers!
Our pleasure! Thanks for the kind note.
Thanks for the tips! I think I subconsciously avoid pinching if I don't have to because I don't feel very strong on them. I'll have to work on that
The opening hair swoop! Sheesh
Excellent stuff!
Do you have more info on "pull through the hold not with the hold"? It didn't yet click with me. :)
wow this was great
Quite useful!
This reduces most of the entropy behind quite a few moves in climbing
LETS GO DARREN!!!!!!!!!!!!!
that exercise at 10:42 is literally the one I've been looking for for like 3 years, I've been trying to find the weak supportive muscles in my left shoulder for like 3 years and that exercise seems to target them perfectly, I thought It would just be because I have a hypermobile shoulder but it seems I was also neglecting the supportive muscles. anyway, Thanks (: time to get strong shoulders.
More of these!
Absolutely!
Great stuff again! One specific question. You keep pointing out why shoulder close to ear is a bad and unstable position which makes perfect sense. However, why are dead hangs at the same time a great shoulder health exercise with plenty of documented evidence? Is it because only if combined it makes sense (ie not really a loose hang but an engaged shoulder hang or something else?
18:36 for secret surprise. the invisibility cloak!
Great vid! On another note, titanium patches seem to be making their way into comps (m finals Innsbruck for example). Can you make a vid on this?
We'll look into the patches -- thanks for the idea!
Think with your feet. Find your balance with your feet/ legs. Lead with your hips. Breathe.
I learnt do my shoulder exercises and move my body into moves rather than letting it lag behind my arms. Thanks!
What app are you using to draw on the videos? I would love to do this to review my technique in the future
It's called OnForm
Algogogo
Thanks for checking out your hair before talking 😂
Do you think there could have been more drive with the legs and hips (i.e. a more dynamic, powerful) movement @22:30? It seems like he drives and gets so close to the hold with a lot of stability but because of that, he then has to pause because he didn't quite go far enough, which makes it look like the move is quite a bit harder. Mobility or power issue?
I'm sure Dan would have a much more nuanced answer to that question, but... To me it looks like it could just be a style preference; maybe he prefers to hold tension for more static movement rather than a more dynamic, dead-pointy style. He probably could have gotten a bit more reach if his scapula wasn't so elevated on his left side, but maybe he felt like that was the only position he could maintain while simultaneously keeping his foot on. Some combination of all that (more controlled scapula combined with his great use of body tension and the "mini drop knee") seems like an excellent way to do that move to me!
-Emile
Haha wow so useful where do I submit my moonboard video? 😅
We put out requests for footage semi frequently! The easiest way to make sure you see them is to follow us on IG
Calgary Barbell do a 'viewers lifts review' every Friday as a live feed. Quite successful I think. Liked the similar format. Would've obviously liked it more if my video had been featured (but won't sue for emotional damage...)
We've thought about that in the past! It would definitely be fun if we could do that.
Sorry about the vid!! Hopefully next time :)
Can anyone help me with what "pull through" the hold means?
It basically means you should pull perpendicular to the edge you’re holding to get the most friction out of it. So if you grab a side-pull but find yourself trying to pull down on it more than sideways, you’re not engaging the hold very effectively(you’re pulling ALONG the hold, rather than THROUGH the hold). 🤙
anyone know what video app they're using? is this standard on ipad?
OnForm
So you’re tellin’ me I should do crunches?
Throw in a sit-up for good measure
What do they mean when they say "pull through the hold"? Still can't quite understand it.
I believe there is another comment on this video where this was answered. (It's explained a bit in the previous Anatomy of the Climb as well.) Dan can explain it better, but in simple terms: pull perpendicular to the edge of the hold, rather than parallel.
@@HoopersBeta thanks!
23:03 i call it the stanky leg
xD I like it
why so few videos of women?
presumably few women submitted videos
We need more female submissions!
Very interesting video, particularly to see people climbing V10+ critiqued. But just want to mention that I hope you confirmed people's gender pronouns.
No