Great approach and fair for the dog too, only found one other similar trainer and have learnt a lot from the 'balanced approach', brilliant and simple!
There are just SO many terrible trainers. If you signal anger or even worse fear, and/or you respond to violence with violence you are signaling to the dog/whatever you're training that you have lost control. This will then immediately lead to more fear and confusion on their end, which is what nearly always leads to violence and other destructive behavior. Any trainer who doesn't understand this should go drive a taxi or something instead. If you're instead always calm, fair, patient, confident, systematic, in control and if possible a bit boring, you can teach a turtle to ride the bicycle if you want.
If he's using reward for resolving bad behavior, then he's not a balanced trainer as he claims. It's a non-sensical approach, especially in a dog's mind.
@@samwdavis Confused by your remark. I think he is using rewards for not doing bad behavior, no? There are so many methods of training, and I'm not sure that only one method is the right one, but his style makes sense to me.
Resource guarding is one thing. What do you think about a dog who approaches the owner, me, when I'm relaxing as if she wants affection and then begins to snarl and bite.
My dog does it for attention. All my clothes have holes in them. He knocked me off a step ladder and when I was at the doctor getting X-rays on my shoulder- my doctor asked if I felt safe at home because my body is covered in bruises 😢
@@mandypdx that sounds more like rough housing antics of an out of control dog than vicious Behavior. I taught my new puppy to bite toys not people offering toys and using my play voice, also to sit and stay so I could get a toy if one wasn't handy. By 3 months old he was getting his own toys. He doesn't seem to understand "off" means no jumping up, yet. Sit and stay he knows inside out.
@@debbiesmith2207 yes. He’s not aggressive or vicious. I’ve worked with trainers and sent him to a very expensive board & train. The feedback I get is that he’s a “unique case” - a confident, friendly guy that can’t self regulate or pick up on social queues.
Without more context my initial thoughts are lack of leadership and structure. You can manage it by crate training, and stricter threshold training so both dog and you can relax however the underlying issue points towards the dog lacking leadership. This is not to say be dominant but leadership is building trust, structure, relationship and giving dog what they need in the way of exercise both physical and mental but also teaching them what you don't want and do want. Hope this helps.
Following tips from a dog trainer I have started threshold management with my 3 year old working cocker. She already knew sit and wait, so it was not that difficult to add the new context. She learned immediately what I was asking and now she expects to be told to sit and wait at every door. I mention this here because it has also helped with her resource guarding. She is generally calmer and looking to me for guidance instead of charging off whenever she feels like it. Every day brings more progress and consistency is vital.
I find it crazy that these people can have been to other places, had such bad experiences and then come and get such a perfect result so quickly! It's amazing work
As much as I wish I had sent my dog to Brandon for training before bringing him home ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1_veP7CApJK_GWy_TczaMciuG64PqJeU I am so grateful for this down-to-earth, practical guide. His training techniques and tips really work. Thank you as well for dedicating your life's work to rescue dogs, and to rescuing those of us who want the very best for our 4-legged family members.
Fenrir I recommend you to all my friends. I have a 7 month cocker spaniel followed your perfect puppy course and it saved my sanity. Henry is a lovely well behaved spaniel even lets me watch tv peacefully 😂 Fenrir you you are a marvel 😁👍
I love this channel! One constructive criticism, though ... please have no / less / quieter music. For some of us (in particular hard of hearing / neuro diverse) it's horribly distracting and can drastically impair the taking-in of what's being said. Go for it when no one's speaking, if you must, but please tamp it down when that chat's happening x
I got ahead with my dog's training after reading Found out how to stop my dog from jumping on people. Learned that you quick turn your back on the dog when they jump and leave the room through the door. When dog finally stops jumping you give him a treat.
Loving the new videos. I have a 10 year old working springer and they are so incredibly intelligent. I had this happen with some of his favourite toys and after some careful reading this is exactly the approach i took. Worked a treat. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you for making this video, just a few minutes ago my dog bite me and I retaliated in anger from protecting the bone, I'm going to try these techniques asap so there can be real change and no damage in our relationship.
I really hope you didn't hit him because that's why he'll bite you when you come near him, hes expecting to get hit so he lashes out first to protect himself. I got a rescue dog and the first thing she did was bite me to try and make me stop what I was doing which was putting her harness on so I continue to do what I was doing while being bitten and she's never gone for me again.
So pleased to have found you..I have a 2 year old Border Collie who for the most part is a loving and loveable dog,gets plenty of exercise,but can have a mind of his own at times,to the point where he bares his teeth at me,growls.... He's good on the lead,and on offleash walks he is brilliant,nothing tempts him away from me,but if he doesn;t get what he wants he can be a big demon lol .I never back off from him,as he's very quick on the uptake and would realise that he could use his growls any time and make me back off.Although he can be a bit moody with me,we have a close bond ,never lets me out of his sight and is very protective.So where am I going wrong because deep down I feel Im failing HIM somehow.He's very loved,but I don't feel I mollycoddle him,and Im firm but fair with him,but at times I think,is it me that's causing this,am I inadvertently enabling the bad behaviour that he sometimes exhibits ? I love him and just want whats best for him,he came from a working sheep farm,and I know that BC's need a job to do,and that they're very energetic,he's my 3rd ,and the biggest challenge lol
this will be a long post, but ill do it because defensive / aggressive biting is a serious issue. sounds like the dog lacks leadership and has taken the position himself. while you think you are firm, the way in which you are firm is most likely the culprit. this isnt him being protective, it's him taking control of the situation because you have not. I dare say... your dog isn't crate trained, it has access to both food and toys whenever it wants, and you probably aren't structuring it's obedience regularly in most of your interaction with it etc. i you know say you are firm, and im not saying this to give you a hard time or make you feel bad, but if you allow certain behaviours with a bold dog (which your dog clearly is), due to inexperience with such a dog or not being firm enough (not physical corrections, but dealing with him in general), they will become masters at manipulating their environment to their advantage. correcting him hard/harder is not the solution for this type of dog. the dog needs less correction and more *structure*. restricting it's freedom, food and play will teach it that you are the provider of all good things and that all those things go away if you decide it. there obviously needs to be consequences for undesirable behaviour (corrections), but if the dog doesn't fundamentally respect you, you are effectively yelling at a deaf man in correcting him. crate train him, start training him in functional obedience every day in short 5-15 minute sessions x 3 for his existential food that all comes from your hand. put his toys away, once he knows his commands, they only come out in conjunction with your interaction. the minute the dog loses interest, the toys go away. *he works for everything*. when he's finished, he goes back in the crate until you get home. he sleeps in the crate, not on the bed or wherever he wants. *you dictate every facet of the dogs life and show it with your actions that you are the leader* . once he shows you he can be responsible and respects you, you start loosening the restrictions and giving him increasing amounts of freedom. i.e letting him spend time on a place mat instead in the crate, letting him off the place mat, getting rid of the place mat altogether and using the place mat as his bed etc. he can work his way back to the bed when you are confident he would never put his teeth on a human being or dog. all walks become structured interactions that challenge him. you have to constantly move the goal posts forward for your dog. once all this is achieved, the problem will go away. now having said all that... now if it comes out ( he growls at you ), *this* is when you correct *FIRMLY* . remember - a correction must imply the dog avoiding an unpleasant consequence to make the behaviour go away. if a correction does not do this, it's not a correction, it's nagging. either it was not aversive enough, or the dog doesn't understand what it should do, therefore you must A: make sure it knows what to do and what it's being corrected for and B: make it painful enough to be clear to the dog that it should not take the stick regardless of whether there is a carrot available or not. what fenrir says in this video regarding correction level needs context, when he suggests their previous trainer is wrong for using a "10". in fact, the previous trainer is technically correct ***if*** you have the appropriate foundation in place. whether you read the scientific literature or take it from trainers *far* better than fenrir (no disrespect, i love the guy). if you are going to correct a dog in the right context, *never* make it a "2.1". thats how you teach a dog to accept higher and higher levels of aversion. all infractions must be corrected firmly and *consistently*. not just in frequency, but in intensity. in fact, the owner's here even eluded to the hard correction solving the issue but saying it caused others. its likely that their inconsistency caused the problem to worsen, and the lack of structure and leadership caused the other issues. in the case like this, where the dog has no structure, there is no point in correcting it sufficiently because the dog doesn't understand what it should and should not do, therefore, a "2.1" (guidance) is fine. essentially, the previous trainer gives the dog this structure and gets the desired result, then the owners get lazy and don't maintain anything, and probably correct it improperly... this is how you end up with this situation. rather than own up to it, they'd rather just lump it all on "that previous trainer". if i had a penny for every time i heard an incompetent owner act this way, and a trainer not call them up on it.. which is annoying because it just hurts the idea of aversive tools they often harp on about protecting. to be clear, and for example - if the dog isn't precise in some manoeuvre, then you would correct it at it's working level (a "2.1") for the small infraction. this is a level that is slightly aversive but not enough to make the dog disengage or give up. fundamentally this is *meant to avoid dissuading the dog* - exactly what you *DONT WANT* . this is for *teaching* a dog to *do* something *different*, not for stopping a behaviour. if I even saw the precursors to biting, my dog would get a swift 7~, and it would never happen again. why? because the *structured environment he operates in* . it makes the corrections very clear to the dog. the dog knows that it's working level (a "2") is pressure that can mean many things. in contrast, if it gets a 7, its clear to the dog it means "never do that again". now, that level might actually be a 4 or 5, and I'm 2-3 levels higher than necessary - this is okay. I rarely ever have to use this level, but when I do, I have no desire to find out that 4 or 5 is not enough. you should err on the side of too much than too little, because too much will mean you never have to do it again, too little causes more pressure to be required over time, and stress is accumulative. with the correct structure, corrections won't have fallout. don't yell or gesture or get mad. just correct and move on. anyhow, long post, again, hope it helps. I have BC's myself so can very much relate as I've gone through it first hand.
Thank you, your videos are really encouraging. Last night our 10 month old rescue dog (beagle/english bulldog mix) nipped our 5 year olds nose/face. She has not showed aggression or anything in the 5 weeks we've had her... The kids have been "annoying" around her and she hasn't seemed to mind. She is dog reactive though. Last night, she was laying on the floor in her bedroom with a rawhide, daughter leaned over the side of her bed in the dark, and the dog nipped. Not sure what happened. We are so worried now about her doing it again, and doing it worse. She is able to do this drill. I wish we could have you come do a 1:1 training session!
Brilliant. Thankyou. My beautiful Shephard takes his food into the lounge room and wants to eat on the rug. He will get defensive if I try to remove his food or shift him back to the kitchen to eat. Now he sleeps in the van more, in his "doggy cave" - I call it. You have just given me the language to use, but also steps towards correcting it without my tears.
SO HELPFUL!! My dog resource guards whatever is in his mouth. It doesn't matter what it is, as soon as he's got it, he guards it and we can't "force" it out of his mouth. He knows how to "swap" it for a treat...and it has been working really well. Is there anyway to get it to a point where he can allow us to take it from his mouth without biting us? We do the "wait" and "get it" with treats....it was a way to teach a bit of self-control with his favourite food...and he does amazingly well in training conditions. The other thing is that he SOMETIMES bites at us when we fiddle with his collar (he lets us pop his leash on and off normally) for a long time...like trying to resize his collar. We use a collar that has a belt-buckle type attachment rather than a click in. He also needs food distraction to groom....otherwise he bites at us. Basically, he seems to use his mouth when he is not happy with what's happening. Currently trying to desensitise, but we seem to be stuck at this level - needing to distract with food.
Exactly. We dont even see the dog drop that item in the video really. All i see is a dog waiting and picking up a low value item when asked. If the dog gets something high value to him is the problem. I get how this can help with impulse control and cultivating manners but when a guarding dog is really guarding and youve missed the warning signs you'll know it, you arent just walking into his space. What do you do then
@@ChristopherJones-ou4eo yep, my dogs like this. One time, the idiot I am, decided to stick my head in my lurchers crate. Why? I don't honestly know. But I regretted it instantly.
This is really interesting!! My dog has shown signs of resource guarding but for things she’s not suppose to have e.g socks, tissues, kids toys so I wonder how the training would differ because telling the dog to wait and then ok is fine when it’s things they’re allowed to have but what about things they’re not… maybe I’m over complicating it 😂
I don't think you're over complicating it, it is different than just giving them back the thing they were guarding. I'm not a professional, it would be interesting to hear what Will has to say about this. I have trained my own dogs and dogs of friends. I could imagine initially doing the space claiming technique from this video but then swapping out what you've reclaimed for something the dog wants and can have. This being the dog learning that you claiming things isn't a negative thing. To avoid the dog interpreting guarding things as a way to get something, perhaps quickly ween off giving something in return for what you reclaimed and separately give things when the dog listens to the wait, OK, leave it.
you need to practice with the things she can have, then when its something she can not have you simply take possession and give her a treat. You need to set up training not do it on the fly.
I used "leave it" and followed immediately by grabbing a lasar pointer off a nearby shelf. If he obeyed, we would play with the pointer. He now knows he's not supposed to have something and when I walk in the room, he drops whatever it is and runs to the shelf, waiting for me to grab the lasar. Sometimes I think it has become his way of asking for playtime. I've stopped using the pointer for about 6 months now, but he still does the sitting and staring at the shelf thing. Overall, I think "leave it" is a critical, even life-saving command that we must absolutely teach our pets. So many dangerous things can be encountered on a walk, but this one command keeps them safe.
Love this video, we've got a working cocker spaniel who thinks the sofa is hers and has bitten when overstimulated so am definitely going to try and teach her some manners around jumping on furniture, thank you!
This new content is fantastic, very well produced and more variation on what you work on! You've taken your channel to a new level, keep this up and I'll never miss a video.
They make it look so easy on these videos. I've been working with our Berner to leave it & stay but getting much progress. Tonight she bit my hand pretty good just trying to get a stick from her outzide.
I like everything you do regarding training and adjusting dog attitudes. Making people understand that it is them who need the training in order to understand, read and manage their dog. I like the emphasis on positive and not admonishment or punishment. My one complaint about you is how many times you repeat yourself. It is over whelming at times and I tend to fast forward to the next step, but this may mean I miss something important. if you could edit your videos a little more harshly, I for one, would appreciate it tremendously. Thank you.
The problem with what you want is that the majority of people need repeated information to understand what is being said. I'm a youtuber myself (this is a burner account for privacy) and when I teach I found repeating myself works better in helping others understand. Otherwise, most people are too distracted to grasp the simplest of things.
I taight drop it with 2 tpys the dog really likes..sayong drop it when I offered the other..or a tug toy..play tug, then stop. When they release it say drop it/praise then play again. That was what I did.
I love watching your videos so informative. Our dog is 9 months old, she’s a Scotish Terrier. Her food is in the kitchen but a few weeks ago she refused to go in to the kitchen and would cry for us to get her food! She’s very stubborn which makes it tricky 🙈 she’s not a foodie dog so it’s hard to use treats as rewards. I’d love any advise please
Wish I could bring our old English rescue to you but we're in Germany 😫 has aggressive resource guarding. And no decent trainers here boo hoooo. Love your style and attitude. It's amazing watching the fantastic results you achieve. 👍
Just come across your videos. There may be a video already for my question, but my frenchie bitten me today (didn’t draw blood) for taking his food bowl, I did it nice and calm and didn’t show any aggression until I started to lift it slowly.
@Fenrir I would love to see how you would manage a very good dog that runs away on occasion. She can be great for long periods and obviously knows the lands boundaries and to stay with eating distance but every so often she just ignores it and goes for a while. I don't want to have her constantly chained but for her own security I can't leave her free if she keeps this up.
Try and e-collar, for reinforcing recall only, not for corrections. You'll be amazed what it can do for your dog's freedom. Obviously if you put the work in to teach it the right way. Good luck
@@roxannecapitani1939 Thank you! Do you have one you recommend or sell ? You should put the link to your merchandise store under all your vidéo, I know you sell some good stuff but I don't remember seeing the link in quite a while.
@@roxannecapitani1939 there very expensive I luv Tom he's fantastic I'd luv one of his ecollar.. I got one for bout £40 did the job.. But Tom's be better wish I could afford one..
Thank you for this free information if I had the money to give a donation I would as my dog is important to me but she nips at my son his mother now I have her and needs discipline
We have just taken in a rescue, he’s 1 and a chihuahua/sausage/jack cross. He’s never been disciplined and if we try to tell him “no/stop/leave it” and we go to touch him around the same time he snaps and bites - he’s broken the skin on me twice now. He is showing resource guarding with toys (he’s never had any before so he’s protective) so if we try to take his toys while he’s playing he will go for us. This video is really helpful for that, but how do we stop the discipline biting? He’s not good orientated so he doesn’t understand the concept of food as a reward, which is very new to us. He’s learning to trust us but we don’t know what kind of trauma he’s been through so we don’t know how to be sensitive in the right way. Other than the biting he’s wonderful, we just need to break this!
That cocker looked a little on the small side, so I'm assuming it was just a puppy? One of my friends had to have their bassett hound x poodle put down about 3 years ago because it had bitten him twice and was a case of "what if it was one of the kids". Their female Labrador wouldn't hurt a fly and is incredibly sweet. He now has a 2 year old male border collie which has become "aggressive" but hasn't harmed anyone. Sometimes he's perfectly fine with people and other times he growls which I've experienced first hand. I've even been alone with him for a couple of hours and had no problems with me. He almost took the vets hand off at one point, so now, not even a groomer will touch him. I need to get my pup some training for pulling (not as bad as it was), jumping at people for attention and reactivity towards other dogs. She definitely doesn't take after her dad with the "aggression".
This is great. I've got al old rescue greyhound who is blind and does resource guarding. mostly of personal space, proximity etc. How can we better engage with him?
My dog bites when he is inconvenience or unhappy with the situation like if he has to stay still and when we have to put the harness on him, or most recently when he was gently nudged to move out of the way from a chair and jumped up and bit the person in the chair
my dog gets bitey when she’s tired…also goes after my husband when she wants to play with him….she’ll run around the room, if we don’t have a long enough lead we can’t catch her, and we don’t try, i’m more of her alpha so i can sometimes get her to slow down, sit and then she’s ok, she’s also started resource guarding so i’ve been working on that, 10 month old puppy
I understand this whole method and cultivating that relationship that everything comes from the owner. Completely agree and obviously rome wasnt built in a day. But ultimately the dog isnt guarding that item in the video. Be interesting to hear a follow up story or if any other methods are used because theyll get home and he'll guard something and leave it wont work. What happens when she tries to sit on the sofa again. An off command maybe. But in that state of heightened guarding its difficult to get dogs to listen
My little dachshund pup is a stubborn little guy. He is very sweet, but when he gets worked up playing, he will bite my hands and chase after them too. He does break away from me once I introduce one of his toys instead of my hand, but I want to break him of biting people at all. (outside of playful little nips.) These videos are very useful. My only gripe is that people like this make it look so easy. (which is why I suppose they are the pros). I do one of those corrective little hisses you do in the video and my dog is looking at me like 'I'm the wrong one'. xD
We have a 2 year old male Great Pyrenees, Atticus, whose resource guarding has become worse since our 8 year old male Newfoundland has passed away. All of our hearts are broken with the passing of our beloved Thumper, but we need help with getting Atticus on a new track, not only through his grief, but pre-existing resource guarding of toys and bone treats. HELP!!!
Hi how would you deal with a dog that is being possessive /aggressive towards you ? Not a item if I go to grab his long line or collar he will lunge for me and snap same if I stand up and try to claim the space back
The only problem here is saying an even “harsh” correction “destroys” your relationship w a dog..it won’t. Yes, corrections need to match the severity, but if you won’t take the upper hand, this dog could easily mutilate, maim, even kill a child. Don’t anthropomorphize or humanize a dog to the point you can’t correct them.
I’d love to see you do a sit stay, retrieve video with a whippet! We are getting another whippet pup for dock diving, and most whippets don’t do a sit, stay, and release retrieve. I’d like to teach ours to grab the toy in the air like our German Shorthaired
My whippet is getting older now but she excelled at it. Seeing her control her prey drive whilst waiting to be released is like watching a spring getting wound tighter and tighter. Unfortunately I can't let her do it now as she's an old lady and can't let her sprint so explosively or she gets stiff by morning. And catches like a pro - as long as it's not too heavy a toy.
I have a very large (80 pound) lab-rot-sheperd mix. She absolutely loves people; cannot get enough love from them. Unfortunately this can get her in trouble. Some dogs resource guard their owners. She has been attacked before for loving up other dog owners. But at 80-pounds she is not to be pushed around. She always gets blamed for defending herself. She does the same thing every time; pins the dog by the neck to the ground. Never really hurts them.
Currently working with our rescue 3 year old staffy cross rotty on resource guarding toys. Its taken a week to get to the point where hes comfortable playing with us and letting us have the ball, hes still alert when we have it but its getting better. Hes definetely a dominant dog though he growls, snarls, shows teeth and will lunge, its veen very challenging. Its not as easily solvable as this video
How I trained my dog, who was a rescue and WILD when I first got him. He was a big dog and I'm a woman, so it was interesting :) I wasn't even sure I could keep him due to his high voltage behaviour. However, I stuck in there with him and I just loved on him. I made him feel safe and secure and talked to him all the time and told him he was safe and secure and no one was ever going to hurt him ever again. I hugged him and kissed him all the time. I spent a lot of time with him in nature, doing nature walks. Long story short, he became my baby boy and it didn't take that long. Maybe 4 months or so. He was always sweet with me from the beginning, but he hated most everyone else. He changed completely after being with me for awhile and loved everyone :) Oh, that is, as long as I liked them LOL Hey, LOVE - real love that is, not the phoney kind, TRULY does cover a MULTITUDE of SINS just as the teaching in the Bible states. It's true.
That was great we just have a rescue dog and his only issue is this. He has had 5 homes and we can see why. How often should I practice this with him so to keep him engaged?
I've got a challenge for you Will! My borador is great round the house, fine with guests (99% of the time), socialises fantastically at day care, walks fine on/off leash with minimal distractions, lets teething puppies literally pull their teeth out on him, plays well and very gently with his friends in the neighbourhood when on/off leash, but when on leash and he sees another dog he turns into something I'm fairly certain satan would be scared of! No hackles raised most of the time and other dogs don't seem to care, but he's (quite literally) doing backflips and launching himself up into the air trying to get to them/chase after them. Food/toys don't snap him out of it, his dog friends become collateral damage if in the way, he just enters another plane of existence...thoughts?
Do you know what the dog wants when it does that? If you do, just give it to him in a controlled fashion so he learns how to get what he wants. Will did a neat video with an Irish woman who has a boxer with I think some of the same issues. See if you can find that video and see if it's the same sort of thing.
Some dogs get more reactive on lead because they're not able to move with 100% freedom and it makes them feel more vulnerable. So, if another dog approaches, and they don't know how that dog is going to react to them, it makes them nervous because if that dog were to aggress, they wouldn't be able to fight/flight as well. Similarly, if that dog wanted to play, they couldn't play freely with it either, so it's not just about fear necessarily, but more about bodily control. Basic leash reactivity training should help. You'll start practising getting and keeping your dog's attention on lead whilst there are no distractions around. Once they're responsive without distractions, you'll start to practice with another dog at a distance and reward them for keeping focused on you. Here it helps to have another well behaved dog/human friend combo to practice with. If he gets too worked up to where he is not able to maintain focus on you and you command, back him farther away from the other dog and regain control. Gradually work at getting closer and closer to other dogs and soon he'll see approaching dogs as a great way to look at you and get a treat. Once he's able to maintain control within sniffing distance of another dog, then he finally gets rewarded with a sniff. Sorry, I know it's been ages since you posted this, but as I've been through it with my old dog, I figured maybe I could help if you're still having this issue.
I had two cocker spaniels growing up. My first dog was a cocker spaniel. Lady. Such a good girl. So smart. I never had any issues with guarding with them but i do with a beagle that was rehomed to me. She guards her own items. Trash. Her space. Everything. And plays or is nice when she wants. And then she will bite if you get in her space and she may feel threatened. I’m going to try this with her.
How would I approach this in the following situation. I have a 13 week Bedlington Whippet who is brilliant with everything. I only have him up on my knee to sleep when I want him up which he accepts but recently when I move or go to put him down he growls at me, and on one occasion he became a little bit more aggressive but didn't actually bite. I always tell him no and jab him and put him down but I obviously want to kurb this behaviour. It's my knee, my affection my sofa. Have you any suggestions pls? By the way your videos have been brilliant x
I have learnt a lot from your videos, more than any others but still have a way to go with my Saluki. Out of interest where in the UK are you based I'd love a few face to face sessions if possible?
Thanks for watching Jon! We're based in Derbyshire but unable to do face to face sessions at the moment. However we hope our channel continues you to help with your training and don't forget if you're still looking for some extra support we have a number of online courses you can check out on our website: www.fenrircanineleaders.com
Love your non- threatening style You never once raised your voice nor acted aggressive. Great progress!
Great approach and fair for the dog too, only found one other similar trainer and have learnt a lot from the 'balanced approach', brilliant and simple!
There are just SO many terrible trainers. If you signal anger or even worse fear, and/or you respond to violence with violence you are signaling to the dog/whatever you're training that you have lost control. This will then immediately lead to more fear and confusion on their end, which is what nearly always leads to violence and other destructive behavior. Any trainer who doesn't understand this should go drive a taxi or something instead. If you're instead always calm, fair, patient, confident, systematic, in control and if possible a bit boring, you can teach a turtle to ride the bicycle if you want.
If he's using reward for resolving bad behavior, then he's not a balanced trainer as he claims. It's a non-sensical approach, especially in a dog's mind.
@@samwdavis Confused by your remark. I think he is using rewards for not doing bad behavior, no? There are so many methods of training, and I'm not sure that only one method is the right one, but his style makes sense to me.
@@DS-ky9dl I would call it rewarding the active behavior of waiting. As opposed rewarding the dog for NOT doing "bad" behavior. :-)
Resource guarding is one thing. What do you think about a dog who approaches the owner, me, when I'm relaxing as if she wants affection and then begins to snarl and bite.
Having the same problem
My dog does it for attention. All my clothes have holes in them. He knocked me off a step ladder and when I was at the doctor getting X-rays on my shoulder- my doctor asked if I felt safe at home because my body is covered in bruises 😢
@@mandypdx that sounds more like rough housing antics of an out of control dog than vicious Behavior. I taught my new puppy to bite toys not people offering toys and using my play voice, also to sit and stay so I could get a toy if one wasn't handy. By 3 months old he was getting his own toys. He doesn't seem to understand "off" means no jumping up, yet. Sit and stay he knows inside out.
@@debbiesmith2207 yes. He’s not aggressive or vicious. I’ve worked with trainers and sent him to a very expensive board & train. The feedback I get is that he’s a “unique case” - a confident, friendly guy that can’t self regulate or pick up on social queues.
Without more context my initial thoughts are lack of leadership and structure. You can manage it by crate training, and stricter threshold training so both dog and you can relax however the underlying issue points towards the dog lacking leadership. This is not to say be dominant but leadership is building trust, structure, relationship and giving dog what they need in the way of exercise both physical and mental but also teaching them what you don't want and do want. Hope this helps.
Following tips from a dog trainer I have started threshold management with my 3 year old working cocker. She already knew sit and wait, so it was not that difficult to add the new context. She learned immediately what I was asking and now she expects to be told to sit and wait at every door. I mention this here because it has also helped with her resource guarding. She is generally calmer and looking to me for guidance instead of charging off whenever she feels like it. Every day brings more progress and consistency is vital.
I want t hug these wonderful owners
I find it crazy that these people can have been to other places, had such bad experiences and then come and get such a perfect result so quickly! It's amazing work
It's highly doubtful that's even true. This Cesar Milan copycat isn't doing anything that other uneducated balanced trainers don't do.
As much as I wish I had sent my dog to Brandon for training before bringing him home ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1_veP7CApJK_GWy_TczaMciuG64PqJeU I am so grateful for this down-to-earth, practical guide. His training techniques and tips really work. Thank you as well for dedicating your life's work to rescue dogs, and to rescuing those of us who want the very best for our 4-legged family members.
Fenrir I recommend you to all my friends. I have a 7 month cocker spaniel followed your perfect puppy course and it saved my sanity. Henry is a lovely well behaved spaniel even lets me watch tv peacefully 😂 Fenrir you you are a marvel 😁👍
Totally agree, best money I’ve spent on my 16 week GSP
Loved this video! Will you make training look so easy and fun. Amazing you were able to help the Spaniel family as quickly as you did. Well done!
I love this channel! One constructive criticism, though ... please have no / less / quieter music. For some of us (in particular hard of hearing / neuro diverse) it's horribly distracting and can drastically impair the taking-in of what's being said. Go for it when no one's speaking, if you must, but please tamp it down when that chat's happening x
I really enjoyed watching this. It’s amazing to see a growling dog come out of that and have such a positive outcome. Thank you.
I got ahead with my dog's training after reading Found out how to stop my dog from jumping on people. Learned that you quick turn your back on the dog when they jump and leave the room through the door. When dog finally stops jumping you give him a treat.
The eye contact with the dog is so important my little doggy always makes sure now before he eats or anything like that! Great tips!
That was the most adorable training session, great corrections and the focus and attention after one correction was beautiful 🙌
Your videos are fantastic! I find them concise and easy to watch. Always good to learn from someone who is worth their salt.
What a good boy and fast little learner!! It's crazy how they very obviously WANT to be taught.
Loving the new videos. I have a 10 year old working springer and they are so incredibly intelligent. I had this happen with some of his favourite toys and after some careful reading this is exactly the approach i took. Worked a treat. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you for making this video, just a few minutes ago my dog bite me and I retaliated in anger from protecting the bone, I'm going to try these techniques asap so there can be real change and no damage in our relationship.
I really hope you didn't hit him because that's why he'll bite you when you come near him, hes expecting to get hit so he lashes out first to protect himself. I got a rescue dog and the first thing she did was bite me to try and make me stop what I was doing which was putting her harness on so I continue to do what I was doing while being bitten and she's never gone for me again.
So pleased to have found you..I have a 2 year old Border Collie who for the most part is a loving and loveable dog,gets plenty of exercise,but can have a mind of his own at times,to the point where he bares his teeth at me,growls.... He's good on the lead,and on offleash walks he is brilliant,nothing tempts him away from me,but if he doesn;t get what he wants he can be a big demon lol .I never back off from him,as he's very quick on the uptake and would realise that he could use his growls any time and make me back off.Although he can be a bit moody with me,we have a close bond ,never lets me out of his sight and is very protective.So where am I going wrong because deep down I feel Im failing HIM somehow.He's very loved,but I don't feel I mollycoddle him,and Im firm but fair with him,but at times I think,is it me that's causing this,am I inadvertently enabling the bad behaviour that he sometimes exhibits ? I love him and just want whats best for him,he came from a working sheep farm,and I know that BC's need a job to do,and that they're very energetic,he's my 3rd ,and the biggest challenge lol
this will be a long post, but ill do it because defensive / aggressive biting is a serious issue.
sounds like the dog lacks leadership and has taken the position himself. while you think you are firm, the way in which you are firm is most likely the culprit. this isnt him being protective, it's him taking control of the situation because you have not.
I dare say... your dog isn't crate trained, it has access to both food and toys whenever it wants, and you probably aren't structuring it's obedience regularly in most of your interaction with it etc.
i you know say you are firm, and im not saying this to give you a hard time or make you feel bad, but if you allow certain behaviours with a bold dog (which your dog clearly is), due to inexperience with such a dog or not being firm enough (not physical corrections, but dealing with him in general), they will become masters at manipulating their environment to their advantage.
correcting him hard/harder is not the solution for this type of dog. the dog needs less correction and more *structure*. restricting it's freedom, food and play will teach it that you are the provider of all good things and that all those things go away if you decide it. there obviously needs to be consequences for undesirable behaviour (corrections), but if the dog doesn't fundamentally respect you, you are effectively yelling at a deaf man in correcting him.
crate train him, start training him in functional obedience every day in short 5-15 minute sessions x 3 for his existential food that all comes from your hand. put his toys away, once he knows his commands, they only come out in conjunction with your interaction. the minute the dog loses interest, the toys go away. *he works for everything*. when he's finished, he goes back in the crate until you get home. he sleeps in the crate, not on the bed or wherever he wants. *you dictate every facet of the dogs life and show it with your actions that you are the leader* . once he shows you he can be responsible and respects you, you start loosening the restrictions and giving him increasing amounts of freedom. i.e letting him spend time on a place mat instead in the crate, letting him off the place mat, getting rid of the place mat altogether and using the place mat as his bed etc. he can work his way back to the bed when you are confident he would never put his teeth on a human being or dog.
all walks become structured interactions that challenge him. you have to constantly move the goal posts forward for your dog. once all this is achieved, the problem will go away.
now having said all that... now if it comes out ( he growls at you ), *this* is when you correct *FIRMLY* . remember - a correction must imply the dog avoiding an unpleasant consequence to make the behaviour go away. if a correction does not do this, it's not a correction, it's nagging. either it was not aversive enough, or the dog doesn't understand what it should do, therefore you must A: make sure it knows what to do and what it's being corrected for and B: make it painful enough to be clear to the dog that it should not take the stick regardless of whether there is a carrot available or not.
what fenrir says in this video regarding correction level needs context, when he suggests their previous trainer is wrong for using a "10". in fact, the previous trainer is technically correct ***if*** you have the appropriate foundation in place. whether you read the scientific literature or take it from trainers *far* better than fenrir (no disrespect, i love the guy). if you are going to correct a dog in the right context, *never* make it a "2.1". thats how you teach a dog to accept higher and higher levels of aversion. all infractions must be corrected firmly and *consistently*. not just in frequency, but in intensity. in fact, the owner's here even eluded to the hard correction solving the issue but saying it caused others. its likely that their inconsistency caused the problem to worsen, and the lack of structure and leadership caused the other issues. in the case like this, where the dog has no structure, there is no point in correcting it sufficiently because the dog doesn't understand what it should and should not do, therefore, a "2.1" (guidance) is fine. essentially, the previous trainer gives the dog this structure and gets the desired result, then the owners get lazy and don't maintain anything, and probably correct it improperly... this is how you end up with this situation. rather than own up to it, they'd rather just lump it all on "that previous trainer". if i had a penny for every time i heard an incompetent owner act this way, and a trainer not call them up on it.. which is annoying because it just hurts the idea of aversive tools they often harp on about protecting.
to be clear, and for example - if the dog isn't precise in some manoeuvre, then you would correct it at it's working level (a "2.1") for the small infraction. this is a level that is slightly aversive but not enough to make the dog disengage or give up. fundamentally this is *meant to avoid dissuading the dog* - exactly what you *DONT WANT* . this is for *teaching* a dog to *do* something *different*, not for stopping a behaviour.
if I even saw the precursors to biting, my dog would get a swift 7~, and it would never happen again. why? because the *structured environment he operates in* . it makes the corrections very clear to the dog. the dog knows that it's working level (a "2") is pressure that can mean many things. in contrast, if it gets a 7, its clear to the dog it means "never do that again". now, that level might actually be a 4 or 5, and I'm 2-3 levels higher than necessary - this is okay. I rarely ever have to use this level, but when I do, I have no desire to find out that 4 or 5 is not enough. you should err on the side of too much than too little, because too much will mean you never have to do it again, too little causes more pressure to be required over time, and stress is accumulative.
with the correct structure, corrections won't have fallout. don't yell or gesture or get mad. just correct and move on.
anyhow, long post, again, hope it helps. I have BC's myself so can very much relate as I've gone through it first hand.
Nice work, quite effectively dealt with that "Spanielness" of the Spaniel :-)
Excellent Will ! 👍
I am always amazed how little understanding humans have about rules , boundries and leadership ... 🤷♀️
Thanks for showing us 😊 ☮️
Thank you, your videos are really encouraging. Last night our 10 month old rescue dog (beagle/english bulldog mix) nipped our 5 year olds nose/face. She has not showed aggression or anything in the 5 weeks we've had her... The kids have been "annoying" around her and she hasn't seemed to mind. She is dog reactive though. Last night, she was laying on the floor in her bedroom with a rawhide, daughter leaned over the side of her bed in the dark, and the dog nipped. Not sure what happened. We are so worried now about her doing it again, and doing it worse. She is able to do this drill. I wish we could have you come do a 1:1 training session!
Sorry this is unrelated but rawhides are really bad for your dogs (you can search up why). There are so many other natural chews you can give instead
Brilliant. Thankyou. My beautiful Shephard takes his food into the lounge room and wants to eat on the rug. He will get defensive if I try to remove his food or shift him back to the kitchen to eat. Now he sleeps in the van more, in his "doggy cave" - I call it. You have just given me the language to use, but also steps towards correcting it without my tears.
SO HELPFUL!!
My dog resource guards whatever is in his mouth. It doesn't matter what it is, as soon as he's got it, he guards it and we can't "force" it out of his mouth. He knows how to "swap" it for a treat...and it has been working really well. Is there anyway to get it to a point where he can allow us to take it from his mouth without biting us?
We do the "wait" and "get it" with treats....it was a way to teach a bit of self-control with his favourite food...and he does amazingly well in training conditions.
The other thing is that he SOMETIMES bites at us when we fiddle with his collar (he lets us pop his leash on and off normally) for a long time...like trying to resize his collar. We use a collar that has a belt-buckle type attachment rather than a click in. He also needs food distraction to groom....otherwise he bites at us.
Basically, he seems to use his mouth when he is not happy with what's happening. Currently trying to desensitise, but we seem to be stuck at this level - needing to distract with food.
Exactly. We dont even see the dog drop that item in the video really. All i see is a dog waiting and picking up a low value item when asked. If the dog gets something high value to him is the problem. I get how this can help with impulse control and cultivating manners but when a guarding dog is really guarding and youve missed the warning signs you'll know it, you arent just walking into his space. What do you do then
@@ChristopherJones-ou4eo yep, my dogs like this. One time, the idiot I am, decided to stick my head in my lurchers crate. Why? I don't honestly know. But I regretted it instantly.
This is really interesting!! My dog has shown signs of resource guarding but for things she’s not suppose to have e.g socks, tissues, kids toys so I wonder how the training would differ because telling the dog to wait and then ok is fine when it’s things they’re allowed to have but what about things they’re not… maybe I’m over complicating it 😂
I don't think you're over complicating it, it is different than just giving them back the thing they were guarding. I'm not a professional, it would be interesting to hear what Will has to say about this.
I have trained my own dogs and dogs of friends. I could imagine initially doing the space claiming technique from this video but then swapping out what you've reclaimed for something the dog wants and can have. This being the dog learning that you claiming things isn't a negative thing. To avoid the dog interpreting guarding things as a way to get something, perhaps quickly ween off giving something in return for what you reclaimed and separately give things when the dog listens to the wait, OK, leave it.
you need to practice with the things she can have, then when its something she can not have you simply take possession and give her a treat. You need to set up training not do it on the fly.
I used "leave it" and followed immediately by grabbing a lasar pointer off a nearby shelf. If he obeyed, we would play with the pointer. He now knows he's not supposed to have something and when I walk in the room, he drops whatever it is and runs to the shelf, waiting for me to grab the lasar. Sometimes I think it has become his way of asking for playtime. I've stopped using the pointer for about 6 months now, but he still does the sitting and staring at the shelf thing. Overall, I think "leave it" is a critical, even life-saving command that we must absolutely teach our pets. So many dangerous things can be encountered on a walk, but this one command keeps them safe.
do you guys know why this is happening? is this normal behavior?
Love this video, we've got a working cocker spaniel who thinks the sofa is hers and has bitten when overstimulated so am definitely going to try and teach her some manners around jumping on furniture, thank you!
This new content is fantastic, very well produced and more variation on what you work on!
You've taken your channel to a new level, keep this up and I'll never miss a video.
I've taken soo much of what you do with my puppy. Thank you.
They make it look so easy on these videos. I've been working with our Berner to leave it & stay but getting much progress. Tonight she bit my hand pretty good just trying to get a stick from her outzide.
Insanely obviously clever yet why is it not widely known . Astounding .🐾❤️👍
Common sense isn't taught enough in the world .. so sad 😢 people n pets die for the neglect unfortunately all from non education.
Love that thumbnail of the dog going crazy and Will being chill as always!
Loved that beat at the beginning!
If you have good speakers...wow that BASS at the beginning.
I like everything you do regarding training and adjusting dog attitudes. Making people understand that it is them who need the training in order to understand, read and manage their dog. I like the emphasis on positive and not admonishment or punishment. My one complaint about you is how many times you repeat yourself. It is over whelming at times and I tend to fast forward to the next step, but this may mean I miss something important. if you could edit your videos a little more harshly, I for one, would appreciate it tremendously. Thank you.
The problem with what you want is that the majority of people need repeated information to understand what is being said. I'm a youtuber myself (this is a burner account for privacy) and when I teach I found repeating myself works better in helping others understand. Otherwise, most people are too distracted to grasp the simplest of things.
Would love a video on teaching drop it.
I taight drop it with 2 tpys the dog really likes..sayong drop it when I offered the other..or a tug toy..play tug, then stop. When they release it say drop it/praise then play again. That was what I did.
I love watching your videos so informative.
Our dog is 9 months old, she’s a Scotish Terrier. Her food is in the kitchen but a few weeks ago she refused to go in to the kitchen and would cry for us to get her food! She’s very stubborn which makes it tricky 🙈 she’s not a foodie dog so it’s hard to use treats as rewards. I’d love any advise please
You’re an absolute genius. Thank you so much Will🙏🏼
Wish I could bring our old English rescue to you but we're in Germany 😫 has aggressive resource guarding. And no decent trainers here boo hoooo. Love your style and attitude. It's amazing watching the fantastic results you achieve. 👍
I love when people give human names to pets 😆 Walter, Katherine, Judy 😆
Our 7 year old Yorkshire Terrier is called Presley, any ideas where his name is from? 😆
Human names? 🤔 That sound so odd considering every name on earth was made up. What do you call a dog who can't speak your language to name itself?
There are also humans named after seasons like Winter, Autumn and Summer makes no difference
Great video! I like how you are with both pet and owner. Class act brother
How is it most people don't exercise this same type patience with other people but are willing to do so with a dog
I also marvel at how a parent will instantly start their misbehaving child on some horrible drug, but then work so hard on training a naughty dog. 😢😢😢
Brilliant advice and demonstration . 👍
Just come across your videos. There may be a video already for my question, but my frenchie bitten me today (didn’t draw blood) for taking his food bowl, I did it nice and calm and didn’t show any aggression until I started to lift it slowly.
Haha! I love that you call it "spanielness" Good Work
These new training videos are on another level fair play Will great content!
This is great, love the attitude and approach. I was really curious how they got on at home following their session.
Unbelievable knowledge well shared 👏
Hoping this will help me, ive been having this problem and escalation with a cavapoo
Nice man… more like this please ❤️
@Fenrir
I would love to see how you would manage a very good dog that runs away on occasion. She can be great for long periods and obviously knows the lands boundaries and to stay with eating distance but every so often she just ignores it and goes for a while.
I don't want to have her constantly chained but for her own security I can't leave her free if she keeps this up.
Try and e-collar, for reinforcing recall only, not for corrections. You'll be amazed what it can do for your dog's freedom. Obviously if you put the work in to teach it the right way. Good luck
@@roxannecapitani1939 Thank you!
Do you have one you recommend or sell ?
You should put the link to your merchandise store under all your vidéo, I know you sell some good stuff but I don't remember seeing the link in quite a while.
@@ChristSimd I'd recommend the Dogtra 280c Tom Davis edition.
@@roxannecapitani1939 there very expensive I luv Tom he's fantastic I'd luv one of his ecollar.. I got one for bout £40 did the job.. But Tom's be better wish I could afford one..
Nice treatment! It is gold training. Smart spaniel too!
Such a wonderful session. Thank yoy
Great video. He breathes like Tony soprano
Space = respect 👏🏼
Thanks Will. I’ve been waiting for this for ages ! 🤗
Beautiful video!
Thank you for this free information if I had the money to give a donation I would as my dog is important to me but she nips at my son his mother now I have her and needs discipline
Great advice thanks for sharing.
this is an excellent video, thanks
I feel like 90% of dog owners get whatever is avaioable or the wrong breed because a puppy is cute.
Awesome video! I'm always learning something new.
We have just taken in a rescue, he’s 1 and a chihuahua/sausage/jack cross. He’s never been disciplined and if we try to tell him “no/stop/leave it” and we go to touch him around the same time he snaps and bites - he’s broken the skin on me twice now. He is showing resource guarding with toys (he’s never had any before so he’s protective) so if we try to take his toys while he’s playing he will go for us. This video is really helpful for that, but how do we stop the discipline biting? He’s not good orientated so he doesn’t understand the concept of food as a reward, which is very new to us. He’s learning to trust us but we don’t know what kind of trauma he’s been through so we don’t know how to be sensitive in the right way. Other than the biting he’s wonderful, we just need to break this!
Sounds like my jack Russel im at my wits end with him
That cocker looked a little on the small side, so I'm assuming it was just a puppy?
One of my friends had to have their bassett hound x poodle put down about 3 years ago because it had bitten him twice and was a case of "what if it was one of the kids". Their female Labrador wouldn't hurt a fly and is incredibly sweet. He now has a 2 year old male border collie which has become "aggressive" but hasn't harmed anyone. Sometimes he's perfectly fine with people and other times he growls which I've experienced first hand. I've even been alone with him for a couple of hours and had no problems with me.
He almost took the vets hand off at one point, so now, not even a groomer will touch him.
I need to get my pup some training for pulling (not as bad as it was), jumping at people for attention and reactivity towards other dogs. She definitely doesn't take after her dad with the "aggression".
A very amazing trainer...
Thank you ❤️
A 2 corrected with a 2.1 😀
This is great. I've got al old rescue greyhound who is blind and does resource guarding. mostly of personal space, proximity etc. How can we better engage with him?
My dog bites when he is inconvenience or unhappy with the situation like if he has to stay still and when we have to put the harness on him, or most recently when he was gently nudged to move out of the way from a chair and jumped up and bit the person in the chair
my dog gets bitey when she’s tired…also goes after my husband when she wants to play with him….she’ll run around the room, if we don’t have a long enough lead we can’t catch her, and we don’t try, i’m more of her alpha so i can sometimes get her to slow down, sit and then she’s ok, she’s also started resource guarding so i’ve been working on that, 10 month old puppy
Great video! My 2 yr old poodle bit my hand twice and is bone aggressive
Nice work Will you are awesome! 100 percent!
Nice work.
I like that there are more trainers like you. Not like the so called Dog Daddy that thinks beating and choking is training. Good job.
I understand this whole method and cultivating that relationship that everything comes from the owner. Completely agree and obviously rome wasnt built in a day. But ultimately the dog isnt guarding that item in the video. Be interesting to hear a follow up story or if any other methods are used because theyll get home and he'll guard something and leave it wont work. What happens when she tries to sit on the sofa again. An off command maybe. But in that state of heightened guarding its difficult to get dogs to listen
My little dachshund pup is a stubborn little guy. He is very sweet, but when he gets worked up playing, he will bite my hands and chase after them too. He does break away from me once I introduce one of his toys instead of my hand, but I want to break him of biting people at all. (outside of playful little nips.) These videos are very useful. My only gripe is that people like this make it look so easy. (which is why I suppose they are the pros). I do one of those corrective little hisses you do in the video and my dog is looking at me like 'I'm the wrong one'. xD
We have a 2 year old male Great Pyrenees, Atticus, whose resource guarding has become worse since our 8 year old male Newfoundland has passed away. All of our hearts are broken with the passing of our beloved Thumper, but we need help with getting Atticus on a new track, not only through his grief, but pre-existing resource guarding of toys and bone treats. HELP!!!
Hi how would you deal with a dog that is being possessive /aggressive towards you ? Not a item if I go to grab his long line or collar he will lunge for me and snap same if I stand up and try to claim the space back
Top stuff. Thank you
All your videos are amazing mate
The only problem here is saying an even “harsh” correction “destroys” your relationship w a dog..it won’t. Yes, corrections need to match the severity, but if you won’t take the upper hand, this dog could easily mutilate, maim, even kill a child. Don’t anthropomorphize or humanize a dog to the point you can’t correct them.
I’d love to see you do a sit stay, retrieve video with a whippet! We are getting another whippet pup for dock diving, and most whippets don’t do a sit, stay, and release retrieve. I’d like to teach ours to grab the toy in the air like our German Shorthaired
German shorthaires are the best got one myself
My whippet is getting older now but she excelled at it. Seeing her control her prey drive whilst waiting to be released is like watching a spring getting wound tighter and tighter.
Unfortunately I can't let her do it now as she's an old lady and can't let her sprint so explosively or she gets stiff by morning.
And catches like a pro - as long as it's not too heavy a toy.
I have a very large (80 pound) lab-rot-sheperd mix. She absolutely loves people; cannot get enough love from them. Unfortunately this can get her in trouble. Some dogs resource guard their owners. She has been attacked before for loving up other dog owners. But at 80-pounds she is not to be pushed around. She always gets blamed for defending herself. She does the same thing every time; pins the dog by the neck to the ground. Never really hurts them.
He's got lovely coloured feathering.
Many don’t know but Cocker Spaniels are the number one biting dog in America, not pit bulls. They are mental. Good correction!
I need those spaniel tricks and tips 🙋🏻♂️😅🙈
Awesome thats a great example
Currently working with our rescue 3 year old staffy cross rotty on resource guarding toys. Its taken a week to get to the point where hes comfortable playing with us and letting us have the ball, hes still alert when we have it but its getting better. Hes definetely a dominant dog though he growls, snarls, shows teeth and will lunge, its veen very challenging. Its not as easily solvable as this video
How I trained my dog, who was a rescue and WILD when I first got him. He was a big dog and I'm a woman, so it was interesting :) I wasn't even sure I could keep him due to his high voltage behaviour. However, I stuck in there with him and I just loved on him. I made him feel safe and secure and talked to him all the time and told him he was safe and secure and no one was ever going to hurt him ever again. I hugged him and kissed him all the time. I spent a lot of time with him in nature, doing nature walks. Long story short, he became my baby boy and it didn't take that long. Maybe 4 months or so.
He was always sweet with me from the beginning, but he hated most everyone else. He changed completely after being with me for awhile and loved everyone :) Oh, that is, as long as I liked them LOL
Hey, LOVE - real love that is, not the phoney kind, TRULY does cover a MULTITUDE of SINS just as the teaching in the Bible states. It's true.
Very helpful, thank you.
My dog makes this dog look like an angel kitten
Was a slip leash on this dog for correction?
That was great we just have a rescue dog and his only issue is this. He has had 5 homes and we can see why. How often should I practice this with him so to keep him engaged?
I love your accent sir!
Wounderful🐾
I've got a challenge for you Will! My borador is great round the house, fine with guests (99% of the time), socialises fantastically at day care, walks fine on/off leash with minimal distractions, lets teething puppies literally pull their teeth out on him, plays well and very gently with his friends in the neighbourhood when on/off leash, but when on leash and he sees another dog he turns into something I'm fairly certain satan would be scared of! No hackles raised most of the time and other dogs don't seem to care, but he's (quite literally) doing backflips and launching himself up into the air trying to get to them/chase after them. Food/toys don't snap him out of it, his dog friends become collateral damage if in the way, he just enters another plane of existence...thoughts?
Do you know what the dog wants when it does that? If you do, just give it to him in a controlled fashion so he learns how to get what he wants. Will did a neat video with an Irish woman who has a boxer with I think some of the same issues. See if you can find that video and see if it's the same sort of thing.
Some dogs get more reactive on lead because they're not able to move with 100% freedom and it makes them feel more vulnerable. So, if another dog approaches, and they don't know how that dog is going to react to them, it makes them nervous because if that dog were to aggress, they wouldn't be able to fight/flight as well. Similarly, if that dog wanted to play, they couldn't play freely with it either, so it's not just about fear necessarily, but more about bodily control. Basic leash reactivity training should help. You'll start practising getting and keeping your dog's attention on lead whilst there are no distractions around. Once they're responsive without distractions, you'll start to practice with another dog at a distance and reward them for keeping focused on you. Here it helps to have another well behaved dog/human friend combo to practice with. If he gets too worked up to where he is not able to maintain focus on you and you command, back him farther away from the other dog and regain control. Gradually work at getting closer and closer to other dogs and soon he'll see approaching dogs as a great way to look at you and get a treat. Once he's able to maintain control within sniffing distance of another dog, then he finally gets rewarded with a sniff. Sorry, I know it's been ages since you posted this, but as I've been through it with my old dog, I figured maybe I could help if you're still having this issue.
I had two cocker spaniels growing up. My first dog was a cocker spaniel. Lady. Such a good girl. So smart.
I never had any issues with guarding with them but i do with a beagle that was rehomed to me. She guards her own items. Trash. Her space. Everything. And plays or is nice when she wants.
And then she will bite if you get in her space and she may feel threatened. I’m going to try this with her.
One word Awesome 👍
How would I approach this in the following situation. I have a 13 week Bedlington Whippet who is brilliant with everything. I only have him up on my knee to sleep when I want him up which he accepts but recently when I move or go to put him down he growls at me, and on one occasion he became a little bit more aggressive but didn't actually bite. I always tell him no and jab him and put him down but I obviously want to kurb this behaviour. It's my knee, my affection my sofa. Have you any suggestions pls? By the way your videos have been brilliant x
I have learnt a lot from your videos, more than any others but still have a way to go with my Saluki. Out of interest where in the UK are you based I'd love a few face to face sessions if possible?
Thanks for watching Jon! We're based in Derbyshire but unable to do face to face sessions at the moment. However we hope our channel continues you to help with your training and don't forget if you're still looking for some extra support we have a number of online courses you can check out on our website: www.fenrircanineleaders.com
Quality as usual 👍🏻
How do you get the toy off the dog once you let him get it to restart the drill? Train a drop it command?