Ducati Monster 900S Clutch Inspection Cleaning and Reassembly
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- I've had my 2000 Ducati Monster in storage for the past 3-4 years and this spring is looking great! so i'd like to get it back to being road worthy again.
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aloha, & keep the rubber side down.
You did not orient the clutch pack cover correctly. I'm referring to the die cast aluminum pice with the spring pockets in it. The arrow/triangle is supposed to align with the spring guide that has the slot cut into the end. Go back and watch where you disassembled this cover and where you reinstalled it and you'll see your mistake. Though the spring guides appear to be uniformly spaced they are not. If you find your clutch not behaving as it should, here's your reason.
As seen at 3:33
Very thorough video! however.. you clocked the pressure plate wrong! The is a notch in one of the standoffs which has to line up with the arrow on the pressure plate. Compare @3:33 with @15:40
Car Karl - good call! I did see that and have since aligned it. I noticed while editing this video... so I pulled the cover, removed my plates, but etc & subsequently realigned everything. NOTE TO ALL: make sure to align the pressure plate and basket correctly! Thanks again Karl
What happens if it is ran in the wrong spot? I got an aftermarket clutch kit and there is no arrow on the plate. It does have a nice little emblem that I assumed was the arrow.
From outside information it seems that it aligns the splines of the hub to the pressure plate.
The pressure plate is recessed, so when the clutch is released, it locks in to the hub like a socket on a nut. If the arrow is not aligned with the line, the pressure plate will not match up to the hub and it may get hung up, keeping the clutch engaged. Though from experience, because the basket and the pressure plate are bolted together and always rotate together, this rational does not seem accurate... The sort answer: It may not matter, but better safe than sorry.
Just changed the clutch plates on my bike, noticed that the pressure plate actually fitted correctly at least in 2 different positions. Installed it incorrectly at first since I didn't find the notch on the aftermarket pressure plate, so I just put it on where it fit correctly and went down.
I know this is old; thanks anyway! I did mine and after I finish, THEN I check to see what others have done 🤣🤣. Very clean ride!
those 2 o-rings on the clutch shaft are a pain in *** to put back. 1 you need to get 'em the exact same size wich might be tricky but when you try to put it on the shaft, well it will just snap before you drive it where it needs to go SO I was lucky to find a mechanic put some type of liquid wich he didn't told me what it was be I just kept the o-rings there for about 1h and I was able to get the job done. One year later and still no leak so it was a good fix.
FYI, the manual for the 1999 996 says to to torque the clutch drum nut to 186 Nm or 137 ft/lbs.
And 748, 916 too.
Fantástic explanation and video.
Thank you for your time and sharing!
Just subscribed.
I fill the oil filter with oil before installing the filter. Usually takes 2 or 3 top ups.
Great video, keep them coming 👍🏻beautiful bike
Thanks for your time! Great info!!
Excellent video!
The oil seals can be replaced without removing the the clutch pressure plate.
Remove the clutch slave cylinder and pull out the clutch push rod . Replace the oil seals and lubricate the pushrod with a molybdenum grease before reinstalling and mounting the the clutch slave cylinder back in place. Much easier.
good idea
Great vid bud!
Interesting. So the leak was caused by the two little o-rings on the pressure/ actuation rod?
did you check the oil screen? the 1" looking nut below the sight glass
So you replaced the 2 viton o-rings on the slave side but not the bearing and larger o-ring on the other side?
Konny is correct the pressure capping plate has an arrow on it which has to be aligned with the correct spring. He did not show or do this. And the springs have to be torque down to the spec it’s not much but it’s very important that they are all set to the same settings for even clutch pull.
What is the spec?
@@joeskis I think is was about 16nm not much be carful as you can strip the thread in the aluminum housing but you should find the exact torque spec for your clutch pack. I also used blue thread lock.
@@rdhphoto1 I can't find them. All I can find is old forums where people are asking about something close but not exactly what I have.
hi mate , how did you call it that key for assemble the clutch and where did you buy it?
Thank you!
I changed to an Oberon performance billet slave cylinder from the UK. Having a real good run with it, sick of the originals.
tastiger91 - great to hear! A New clutch cylinder is in the near future for my M900S I have my eye on the Oberon or the EVR... along with a fork rebuild and some cartridges. Thanks for the heads-up on the Oberon!
Yup, the original's are garbage. Oberon are also bigger and make the clutch pull lighter so as to be much more comfortable to ride with and give you more control.
Never do this? What exactly is the "this" that we aren't supposed to do?
What's the name of the specialty tool that helped hold the cluch
what is the name of the other small plastic ring that holds the clutch rod in place . .thinking I need to replace that
Did you add more oil after you ran it? Great video, my clutch makes a groaning type noise when Im taking off from a stop and read on the forums that it might be from clutch dust or glazed plates so I wanted to take the clutch apart and look
DJ MotoVlogs - I did make sure that the motor oil was at the appropriate level while the bike was on the ground. When it's on the rear stand, the level looks a little off. If you are experiencing a bit of groaning take the clutch cover off and see if you have a lot of clutch dust built up. Or if you have oil slung off the actuator shaft. If there is no oil, take the disks and plates out and use some 800-1200grit sandpaper to scuff the friction disks a little. Sand across the friction disk, so from the center out. Do not sand the same direction as the clutch rotates. Oh just need to sand a little. Just enough so your disks and plates will need to break in and mate to each other again. Hope that helps
The Polymath Thank you for that explanation - very helpful. I will give that a try I hope there aren't any oil in there ☺
How many liters of engine oil does a 900 ie needs?
Hey, so did replacing the little o rings on the actuator shaft help? My clutch fluid is pitch black (changed in March) and I'm seeing a leak from my slave cylinder. I think it might even be engine oil because my clutch fluid is not going down.
DJ MotoVlogs - the ~$4 worth of O-rings and the brake fluid flush job seems to have done the trick for me. However, my leak was the clutch fluid leaking past the slave cylinder (Known Ducati problem with the slave bore having burrs and rough machining) the shaft o-rings, and into the dry clutch. If you're experiencing issues with motor oil getting into your clutch/past your slave cylinder, you may not have the same problem.
I need to replace the clutch basket on my Monster but i don't have the tool to hold the inner hub to remove the 32mm nut. Would another way to remove this nut be to remove it before removing the friction plates? So that it can't move since it's being held in place by the basket?
I had the same question. i hit that nut with my impact gun and the whole assembly rotated. I would recommend buying the locking tool and the appropriate sized socket. they are fairly cheap and you will stick to the old adage of 'Do it right, Do it once.' If you put the bike in gear, all of the force you apply to that nut will be transferred to the clutch, engine compression, and drive system... probably not the best idea.
What’s that small window where you can see the clutch fluid called? I believe my 99 monster 900 s is leaking from it
that's the engine oil. The Monsters, or at least this years model, used dry clutches.
My crankcase has had a fuel/oil problem because of a 1 year sitting open overflow carbs. (fixing it currently). Fuel got into my crank case.
I'm also working on the clutch.the plates are greasy and everything is greasy and has a leak. I need to change my seal that's behind the basket that you mention ( 8:34 ) not to clean with alcohol. I cant find the part number or a replacement seal and I dont even know how to search for that part. Any help?
which model year are you looking for? the parts you are looking to service are the 'Crank bearing and seal' it's not a fun job replacing those... also, check you case breather to make sure there are no obstructions. if your breather can do it's job, crank case pressure spikes and this seal is known to weep oil through under those circumstances. Hope that helps steering you in the right direction.
@@ThePolymath1 I just cleaned everything in there really good. I replaced the smaller oil seal and little o-ring and gonna check back on within a few miles. It is a '95 900ss cr.
Refill more Oil!!! very important after oil change
you mean put in more than minimum?
@@joeskis yea some like that 😅🚩
Hi is this gonna be the same for hypermotard 1100? I'm planing to change clutch plates on mine ..
Thanks
Yes. i'm not sure if the same clutch tool (to hold the clutch in place) would be usable, but all Ducati Dry Clutches are similar. Hope that helps!
I'd be more inclined to use a 1/4 drive Allen wrench bit to crack the studs loose and then a "T" Handle because it will give you a bit more authority over the Socket head Cap Screw .
Remove the inner cage by locking a leather belt around it , although I simply hand held mine with a Leather welder's glove and then using an air impact wrench to undo the central nut.
Did you buy the specific tool or borrow it ? . I might just happen tom make myself a tool like that. A word of warning to anyone doing their own maintenance to NEVER use Loctite 601 EVER I only ever use 222 or 241-2 for nuts and threaded studs
Why not round the torque up to 30 Ft Lbs ? - Here's a question , Why do you in the USA revers things Like Ft/lbs surely the actual numbers on the Torque wrench aren't lab;ed as Lb/Ft , curious as to why this is.
Oh I pre-fill the Filter with fresh Oil to limit the slack time with minimal oil pressure.
I only had access to my allen key set at the time I shot the video, but the T handle might also be a good alternative. Just like with loosening bolts, I would not reach for a ratchet as my first choice. I want a solid, on axis link to where I need apply torque. Using a leather belt might work to hold the cage, but I had the tool already, so I used it. I never stated that one should use Loctite 601. 242 is more than adequate to hold the hardware in this instance. I'm not sure why we use the colloquialism for 'foot-pound' instead of pound-feet or changing units to newton-meter, gram-centimeter, etc. All torque specifications are mass to linear measurement. good catch. thank you!
Yeah I agree, you use what tools you have access to , a direct strike on the head of the cap screws works well to crack the threads clear, and allow for lower torque requirement to undo the Bolt, as for the Allen wrench and ring spanner , no different to using a 1/4 3/8 drive hex bit and a long handled ratchet for instance .
I thought you may have had the tool or maybe rented it which is why I asked . Yes I realise you never mentioned the type of Loctite, I was getting in to reiterate what you were saying , as MANY don't understand the number of variants of fastening solutions made by the Company . but for Motorcycles and their fastener's 222, 241, 242, 243 are IMHO more than adequate as you say and on the very rare occasion possibly 271.
The Torque Specifications I don't understand why the differences in terminology, and in reality it could mean that someone might miss read and over tighten some fastener's as that could b a geographic thing perhaps.
Uhhhh, there’s almost no oil in it.
Its a dry clutch, so hopefully not. And the oil level is not to be measured on a cold bike
He literally filled it with oil in the video!
Uhhhh, he put oil in it....
You definitely need better tools and ang gloves.