Before your comment further, build your own GR Research XLS Encore, get all the upgrades avail. Then do a contrast. I did. And I've sold tghe CSS 1TDX within 5 months. XLS Encore is still with me. When you only have 1 DIY project, you can say you love it, but you have no comparison with another DIY speaker. So if you want to give a more valid review, go and get the GR Research XLS Encore.
Built my CSS speakers 6 months ago. They are awesome! I did a pair of 2TD, except I put the tweeter on top with the 2 woofers below. These speakers have gotten better over time. Played some Metallica yesterday. That bass really hits!
Your evaluation of the sound of these is spot on. I built the 2TDx, and cannot understate how much I love them. I can, and do, listen to them for hours-something I could not do with my no slouch Yamaha NS-1000Ms. I purchased the crossover upgrade not because I believe individual components sound better, but because of the better components tolerances which ensure both speakers crossover at the exact same frequency-the phantom center is nailed on these speakers. Unfortunately, after showing my wife your build, I may have to purchase another flat pack to come up a more appealing finish!!!
I've always enjoyed your channel and I subscribed awhile ago. You always deliver and this was another example of it. I watched your previous segments on these speakers and I loved the way they turned out after all of your extensive work, particularly the black gloss front baffle. Kudos for doing what you do, Matt. Wishing you an early Happy Thanksgiving.
@@MattCoykendall1 nothing too crazy lately but I did find a gem of a cheapy! The $269 cerwin vega LA165, I havn't reviewed it yet but man it's really good for the money. I didn't even have a video out this week, I'm on the couch recovering from a hernia surger, fun stuff!
I love my GoldenEar BRX with the AMT ribbon tweeter based on the heil. So I upgraded to the PS Audio FR5 with planar ribbon tweeter. (I also love the Wisdom Audio P4m with planar tweeter) I considered the Borressen X1 which is sold through dealers who markup the price so you pay more , whereas PS Audio is sold direct to consumer cutting out the middle man. Both have planar tweeters, 2 copper rings on the mids, woven mids. source=Apple Music lossless quality
Just sharing an idea. If you want to give it an unusual look, finish all the panels on whatever choice, then use the router to round the edges and give them a wood perimeter look. Kind of like a "floating" panel effect. They will stand out with the contrasting edge. The downside, well, it is more work, requires quality tools and a steady hand. I did like that CSS also sells a bass module, even a slim one, that you can add later.
I recently built the 2TDX's and I can't state enough how much I love these things. These will probably be my forever speakers. I purchased an RSL subwoofer which I turns out I don't need with these speakers so I'll save that for my home theater usage. These just sound great. Building them took a little time but it was worth it.
Would love to hear your thoughts on how these stack up against the Buchardt S400 Mkii. Although one is DIY, I think these two speakers compete quite a bit - both offer deep bass/big sound from a bookshelf and a neutral to warm(ish) sound signature. A finished pair of Critons is pretty close in price to the s400s as well.
Looks very much like my old NHT SB3 speakers except the tweeter on those are set below the woofer. Also bass heavy and treble bright to the detriment of midrange nuance and finesse. A fun party speaker.
Build a speaker that sounds good: They are dipole and point source from 300hz upwards. Get a good 5" FR driver and mount it (open) on top of a floorstanders box with a 10" woofer in the box with a bass vent. Tune the vent by sliding a cardboard tube over a polypipe bass vent tube, to get the.best tube length. Just wrap thin cardboard inside the polypipe tube of a guessed length. Push it in so it extends the tube length. If bass is sloppy, cut the polypipe shorter. If bass is bonky extend the inner cardboard to make tube longer and re make another polypipe tube that length. Doesn't matter how big the box is (as long as it's fairly BIG) a reasonable size for a 10" woofer. Or how fat the bass vent tube is, as long as it looks about right. Tuning is entirely done by the bass tube length. Use a 5.6 mh inductor on the woofer. Try that first, at least. Mount the open 5" FR driver on top of the box (with a bunch of BlueTack for a quick fix) and slope the driver back like 20- 40 degrees so it's not so in your face (experiment with it). Connect the FR directly from the woofer binding posts at the back of the box. You need a woofer sensitive enough to catch up with the open FR driver, and it will warm up the med range just right (with the right inductor for that best blend with the FR driver). How it sounds. Like panel speakers but more defined cos of the smaller source. If there is any echo in a recording, you are going to hear it! Sounds come from nowhere, you hear people talk in your room, until you realise it's the speakers (frightening). The med range is particularly clean! They don't sound lean or cold cos of the woofer. Once I made these, there is no going back!
I noticed you have the same Monoprice easel style speakers stands as me. If you were disappointed (as I was) when you received them and they didn’t include the conical feet that were pictured in their ad, you can order part# C directly from Pangea Distribution (the same conical feet are used for their Vulcan equipment stands) at $3 each (you’ll need 6 total) + $5 shipping. Perfect fit, you can thank me later. Keep putting out great content, I appreciate it.
The glide feet are different (they’re made for people with hardwood floors who don’t want to use the spikes). Just message Pangea and mention part# C for the Vulcan stands and they’ll know what you’re talking about. They might even send you a product diagram to confirm you’re asking for the correct part. But no, they don’t offer the individual part on their website, I had to do some research
Awesome tip - thanks! That’s one thing that bothered me about the easel stands. Seems like a promising alternative to Solidsteel but not much feedback other than a short thread on ASR. What do you think of them? I know the other Monolith stands are regarded as a good value. Coincidentally, those stands appear to be an “homage” to the Pangea DS400.
Hey Matt - I really enjoy your videos. I've had these speakers with the upgraded crossovers for almost 3 years now and love them. I have a slightly different take on the sound signature though. I find them much less forgiving of poor recordings than you did. I added a Schiit Lokius to my setup that I flip on and off depending on what I'm listening to. Some recordings need the upper mids toned down a little, whereas really good recordings sound incredible as is. I think they're very revealing but admittedly, I don't really have any experience with higher end speakers that could possibly make me realize that these actually were smoothing over some rough edges. I just put together their new center channel kit and it is also fantastic - I'm running what I guess would be a hybrid HT and 2 channel setup. I'd be really interested in seeing a comparison of these vs more expensive speakers to get a feel for what you would have to spend to realize a tangible upgrade from them. You did an amazing job on the cabinets. Thanks for all the great content you create!
I have the 1TD (not x) version and I'd have to agree with your assessment. Upper-mids in particular on poor recordings can get a bit too forward in my room. I looked at getting a Schiit Lokius for this exact reason haha! I believe this is partially due to the reflectivity of my room, but it's also a very neutral/flat measuring speaker through that region. Some speakers are recessed through the mids or upper mids to give the impression of warmth or smoothness (Wharfedale Linton etc.), or due to directivity errors, but the 1TDs and 1TDX seem to be flat through that region or even slightly raised 1-5K (according to ASR est. in-room response). Lot out there about how "laid back" they are but I don't really get that - they'e definitely not sibilant or harsh in upper treble at all, but with poor recordings like old 60's reggae/ska for example or even youtube ads (lol kind of a good test of this) they can sound to my ears a bit too dry/forward in the upper mids which is accurate, but not very forgiving of harshness in that area. That being said, this voicing can sound amazingly present and visceral with smooth, spacious, well-made recordings.
Also, would it be good to round the front edges with a router and possibly add a few braces to the inside of the cab? And I'm guessing that baltic is the way to go as well...
I built them in birch. There's a horizontal bracing panel inside each cab that slides into pre-machined slots and contacts all four vertical panels - once glued up these things are absolutely rock solid.
thanks for another great review. I could not agree with you more. I have built 2TD, 2TDX both MTM and TMM towers, 1TDX, bass modules, Toris, 3tdX and 1TDX wave guides. I have used walnut, black ash, white ash fumed, and rosewood. General finishes armour seal, Emtech spray ;lacquer and Monocoat. I have sold all but the 3's, Toris and wave guides. The 3's are staying as I condor them of reference quality, Toris in a bed room system and the wave guides I am selling. I just do not have room for all. Each model has represented incredible value and performance. I hate to use the term musical but that is what each has shared. Transparent, resolving smooth all yes but the best is they get out of the way and allow me to connect to the music and for long listening sessions. Building them for me is a blast and I will assuredly build each new model that CSS develops. I also need to say that their customer service is off the charts good. Always responsive and quickly. Maybe you should try the new bass modules? Looks intriguing and if I did not have the 3's I would build a pair.
Hey! I paid for the rights on this one. I need to find a new intro song as I can’t keep buying it for each video. They do sound great and I actually fired them up with the new ex line up last night, good times.
Hi Matt! I didn’t get around to watch this one, so I am late to the scene. But good to hear your diy-project is a great success, these Critons are beasts, I love em to bits too. If have 2 questions for you, I hope you have the patience and time to get back to me. Do you have an idea how far away from the backwall the Critons should be placed at least to avoid base-bloating and for the Critons to perform their best? I think I have overlooked your review on the Audiolab 9000A, but I am considering upgrading to this amp from the 6000A. Have you listened to the Critons with the 9000A, and if so, can you give me a sense of their synergy? Does the combination make them to polite? Or the midrange to pronounced? Etc, any input is welcome. All the best Matt! Gerlach Sven.
For my placement I ended up around 14-16” from the back wall. I am playing around with building some bass traps right now so that distance will likely change in the future. The 9000a can power them to their full potential, as for the mid range my suggestion would be to keep the toe in to a minimum on these and keep the angle just outside of your ears rather than direct at you. I would say you’re going to find that perfect blend of pronunciation and politeness just by toying with the placement a bit, also check out the new Cambridge Exa100, both great options.
@@MattCoykendall1 thank you kindly for your prompt response, much appreciated. From your description I take the Critons make a great combo with the 9000A, so good hear. I have tried different amps by now but none give me the musical but easy going sonics I am looking for, so perhap the 9000A is a solid option, easy going like the 6000A but hifi instead of mid-fi. I am going to start working on some stands this weekend to give the critons some more room to breath .... Again, thank you kindly, all the best! Gerlach Sven.
I was looking at these but couldn’t justify spending that much and I still have to build it and I don’t even have the tools to build it correctly so more cost
Did you try these with your Audiolab amp? I just ordered this speaker kit, and now I'm nervous that my 6000a will be turned into a place holder for a new amp!
You will be good, its on the lower limits of where I like to be on these but as long as its not going in a large space your volume limits should be fine here.
@@MattCoykendall1 Thanks for your reply. If it doesn't work in my space, I'll add an Emotiva A2 poweramp, and use the 6000a as a pre-amp fed by the Wiim ultra. The kit hasn't arrived yet. Can't wait to get started!
I absolutely adore my 1TDX! I did the baltic birch and crossover upgrades. I didn't veneer them but I might down the road as even with pre-treating the stain is meh. I fully agree with you regarding the power needs. Personally, I don't really trust CSS's sensitivity ratings. Mine were good with a 100W Marantz receiver but when I switched to monoblocs it was like I had bought a different speaker. Put some real, high-current watts on these and you will be rewarded richly. I have 12 pairs of speakers from vintage to new and these are the ones that make folks stop and comment on how good they sound.
IMO If a kit sells for 1k and the finished version sells for 2k from a direct to consumer model and a estimated 3-4k if sold retail then that's where the comparison should be, so to me a 1k kit should at least be in the same conversation as a 3k + retail speaker to be considered a great value.
Hi Matt: Love the look of the new room. Very nice indeed. The speakers are very interesting to me... but I have a question, that I hope you can answer: Your setup isn't that different than what I commonly see in people's living rooms but in general they seem to prefer the speakers to be lower to the ground... (less obvious). Some even have them on the floor, which for a bookshelf sized speaker is not optimal. Have you tested these CSS speakers on lower stands, say about 16 or 18 inches and, how do they sound?
I have not as I have my placement a little more in line with my ear level. I would say judging by listening observations that the vertical response could potentially disrupt the performance a bit if it was aggressively low. If that lower placement was required their new waveguide design would likely perform a bit stronger in that case.
Excellent series and review. Wish I were a little more confident in my woodworking abilities to give this a try. Just want to say how much i look forward to and enjoy your channel.
Thanks Matt, great 1TD-X series. I had these on a loan from a friend who built them, and I really wanted to order a kit. But, since I'm living in Serbia, when I factored in transport, customs, and VAT costs, this turned out to be a costly proposition for me and out of my budget. I regret it since I really liked the relaxed sound, good imaging and scene width, and an unexpectedly deep and tight bass. In my opinion, this is a very tough rival to much more expensive models from mainstream manufacturers. For example, I liked it much better than the KEF LS50s, which is a very good speaker in its own right.
@rikardekvall3433 Yes, thank you, I know that. The kit is selling for 1.200 eur, plus shipping, customs, and VAT. They would be min. 1.700 eur when they come to me. So, it was not an option
@ Even 1700 is a lot of money and still a DIY. But when you compare sound quality and imaging with other speakers, how much doesn’t they then cost? It’s really hard to get the same fit and finish as big brand when you DIY. But ask yourself, do I want a furniture that sounds okay or a okay looking box that sounds great? Speakers is hard enough to be WAF approved 😉 Buchardt S400mk2 works.
I like the speakers. but for the price they are charging i dont see the value. you are getting dayton audio parts for some of the components. they want another 400 bucks to upgrade from dayton parts ? no way. you can buy fantastic already made speakers for the price of the kit. dont see the appeal as you can design and build your own speakers if thats your interest for much less than the price of the kit.
Dayton parts are still better than crossovers built to a price point. They’re real caps, real resistors, air core inductors. The price on the parts is fair, they aren’t ridiculously marked up or anything.
Well you don’t know what you are missing here. All of us here in the comment column would really like to see a YT video by you, showing all of us, how you R&D and build with Dayton parts, a as good sounding, same measurements, cheaper speaker then this CSS.
I didn't think I was going to like how these were going to look when it was just the dyed veneer but the two tone affect with gloss black baffle really makes all the difference, they look great! Regarding the space do you plan on doing a video on everything you've done? I plan on doing a similar wood slat wall and I'd be interested to see how you built yours. Are the panels just mounted on 1" standoffs and floating off the wall? It would also to see before and after measurements, if you made them that is.
I am going to cover the wall in a bit for detail in a video coming up. When I was looking for examples of the install on here a lot of them were missing key things on how to install them around outlets and actually make it look complete.
Before your comment further, build your own GR Research XLS Encore, get all the upgrades avail. Then do a contrast. I did. And I've sold tghe CSS 1TDX within 5 months. XLS Encore is still with me. When you only have 1 DIY project, you can say you love it, but you have no comparison with another DIY speaker. So if you want to give a more valid review, go and get the GR Research XLS Encore.
Built my CSS speakers 6 months ago. They are awesome! I did a pair of 2TD, except I put the tweeter on top with the 2 woofers below. These speakers have gotten better over time. Played some Metallica yesterday. That bass really hits!
Your evaluation of the sound of these is spot on. I built the 2TDx, and cannot understate how much I love them. I can, and do, listen to them for hours-something I could not do with my no slouch Yamaha NS-1000Ms. I purchased the crossover upgrade not because I believe individual components sound better, but because of the better components tolerances which ensure both speakers crossover at the exact same frequency-the phantom center is nailed on these speakers. Unfortunately, after showing my wife your build, I may have to purchase another flat pack to come up a more appealing finish!!!
I've always enjoyed your channel and I subscribed awhile ago. You always deliver and this was another example of it. I watched your previous segments on these speakers and I loved the way they turned out after all of your extensive work, particularly the black gloss front baffle. Kudos for doing what you do, Matt. Wishing you an early Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks for sticking around for another!
This is my favorite looking finish job I’ve seen on a set of critons so far! Wow! Great job on the review, 100% agree with everything you said.
Thanks Nemo! I should probably swing over to your channel now, you always have some interesting speaker in.
@@MattCoykendall1 nothing too crazy lately but I did find a gem of a cheapy! The $269 cerwin vega LA165, I havn't reviewed it yet but man it's really good for the money. I didn't even have a video out this week, I'm on the couch recovering from a hernia surger, fun stuff!
I love my GoldenEar BRX with the AMT ribbon tweeter based on the heil.
So I upgraded to the PS Audio FR5 with planar ribbon tweeter. (I also love the Wisdom Audio P4m with planar tweeter)
I considered the Borressen X1 which is sold through dealers who markup the price so you pay more , whereas PS Audio is sold direct to consumer cutting out the middle man.
Both have planar tweeters, 2 copper rings on the mids, woven mids.
source=Apple Music lossless quality
Just sharing an idea. If you want to give it an unusual look, finish all the panels on whatever choice, then use the router to round the edges and give them a wood perimeter look. Kind of like a "floating" panel effect. They will stand out with the contrasting edge. The downside, well, it is more work, requires quality tools and a steady hand.
I did like that CSS also sells a bass module, even a slim one, that you can add later.
That bass module looks kinda fun as well, curious how it compares to their full size floorstand models
I recently built the 2TDX's and I can't state enough how much I love these things. These will probably be my forever speakers. I purchased an RSL subwoofer which I turns out I don't need with these speakers so I'll save that for my home theater usage. These just sound great. Building them took a little time but it was worth it.
Sounds like your enjoying these as well
I just spent the last 4 hours listening to them. Absolutely the best $1,400 I've ever spent. I agree run to this kit.
That is awesome!
Would love to hear your thoughts on how these stack up against the Buchardt S400 Mkii. Although one is DIY, I think these two speakers compete quite a bit - both offer deep bass/big sound from a bookshelf and a neutral to warm(ish) sound signature. A finished pair of Critons is pretty close in price to the s400s as well.
Looks very much like my old NHT SB3 speakers except the tweeter on those are set below the woofer. Also bass heavy and treble bright to the detriment of midrange nuance and finesse. A fun party speaker.
There is a place for party speakers too!
Build a speaker that sounds good:
They are dipole and point source from 300hz upwards.
Get a good 5" FR driver and mount it (open) on top of a floorstanders box with a 10" woofer in the box with a bass vent.
Tune the vent by sliding a cardboard tube over a polypipe bass vent tube, to get the.best tube length. Just wrap thin cardboard inside the polypipe tube of a guessed length. Push it in so it extends the tube length. If bass is sloppy, cut the polypipe shorter. If bass is bonky extend the inner cardboard to make tube longer and re make another polypipe tube that length. Doesn't matter how big the box is (as long as it's fairly BIG) a reasonable size for a 10" woofer. Or how fat the bass vent tube is, as long as it looks about right. Tuning is entirely done by the bass tube length. Use a 5.6 mh inductor on the woofer. Try that first, at least.
Mount the open 5" FR driver on top of the box (with a bunch of BlueTack for a quick fix) and slope the driver back like 20- 40 degrees so it's not so in your face (experiment with it). Connect the FR directly from the woofer binding posts at the back of the box. You need a woofer sensitive enough to catch up with the open FR driver, and it will warm up the med range just right (with the right inductor for that best blend with the FR driver).
How it sounds. Like panel speakers but more defined cos of the smaller source. If there is any echo in a recording, you are going to hear it! Sounds come from nowhere, you hear people talk in your room, until you realise it's the speakers (frightening). The med range is particularly clean! They don't sound lean or cold cos of the woofer. Once I made these, there is no going back!
Nice! You keep getting better and better. Really enjoying your videos - greetings from Sweden!
Appreciate the kind words, greeting across the pond!
I noticed you have the same Monoprice easel style speakers stands as me. If you were disappointed (as I was) when you received them and they didn’t include the conical feet that were pictured in their ad, you can order part# C directly from Pangea Distribution (the same conical feet are used for their Vulcan equipment stands) at $3 each (you’ll need 6 total) + $5 shipping. Perfect fit, you can thank me later. Keep putting out great content, I appreciate it.
I see the Pangea Audio Vulcan Glide Feet in sets of 4 for 30 but I am not seeing the individual ones for purchase. Is this direct at pangeaaudio ?
The glide feet are different (they’re made for people with hardwood floors who don’t want to use the spikes). Just message Pangea and mention part# C for the Vulcan stands and they’ll know what you’re talking about. They might even send you a product diagram to confirm you’re asking for the correct part. But no, they don’t offer the individual part on their website, I had to do some research
@@MattCoykendall1 How do the easel stands compare to the 4 column Monolith stands you reviewed/modded with sand previously? Great video as always!
Awesome tip - thanks! That’s one thing that bothered me about the easel stands. Seems like a promising alternative to Solidsteel but not much feedback other than a short thread on ASR. What do you think of them? I know the other Monolith stands are regarded as a good value. Coincidentally, those stands appear to be an “homage” to the Pangea DS400.
Hey Matt - I really enjoy your videos. I've had these speakers with the upgraded crossovers for almost 3 years now and love them. I have a slightly different take on the sound signature though. I find them much less forgiving of poor recordings than you did. I added a Schiit Lokius to my setup that I flip on and off depending on what I'm listening to. Some recordings need the upper mids toned down a little, whereas really good recordings sound incredible as is. I think they're very revealing but admittedly, I don't really have any experience with higher end speakers that could possibly make me realize that these actually were smoothing over some rough edges. I just put together their new center channel kit and it is also fantastic - I'm running what I guess would be a hybrid HT and 2 channel setup. I'd be really interested in seeing a comparison of these vs more expensive speakers to get a feel for what you would have to spend to realize a tangible upgrade from them. You did an amazing job on the cabinets. Thanks for all the great content you create!
Might be kind of fun to compare them with something around the Dynaudio Evoke 20
@@MattCoykendall1 Yes, or the Buchardt S400 Mk II, since a finished pair of the CSS is a similar cost and they're both big-bass bookshelves.
I have the 1TD (not x) version and I'd have to agree with your assessment. Upper-mids in particular on poor recordings can get a bit too forward in my room. I looked at getting a Schiit Lokius for this exact reason haha! I believe this is partially due to the reflectivity of my room, but it's also a very neutral/flat measuring speaker through that region. Some speakers are recessed through the mids or upper mids to give the impression of warmth or smoothness (Wharfedale Linton etc.), or due to directivity errors, but the 1TDs and 1TDX seem to be flat through that region or even slightly raised 1-5K (according to ASR est. in-room response). Lot out there about how "laid back" they are but I don't really get that - they'e definitely not sibilant or harsh in upper treble at all, but with poor recordings like old 60's reggae/ska for example or even youtube ads (lol kind of a good test of this) they can sound to my ears a bit too dry/forward in the upper mids which is accurate, but not very forgiving of harshness in that area. That being said, this voicing can sound amazingly present and visceral with smooth, spacious, well-made recordings.
Like I have mentioned in the past, the time you spent on those speakers cabinets made them look completely amazing 🤩 Perfection at its finest..
Also, would it be good to round the front edges with a router and possibly add a few braces to the inside of the cab? And I'm guessing that baltic is the way to go as well...
I built them in birch. There's a horizontal bracing panel inside each cab that slides into pre-machined slots and contacts all four vertical panels - once glued up these things are absolutely rock solid.
Retail on the finished version is $2350 so that seems like a good price point for comparison to commercial speakers?
Yeah that’s a fair starting point
Hey Matt! Love the video! Your editing and production has improved leaps and bounds! What subwoofers are you using in this video?
Thanks! I am using the Sumiko S.9 here.
thanks for another great review. I could not agree with you more. I have built 2TD, 2TDX both MTM and TMM towers, 1TDX, bass modules, Toris, 3tdX and 1TDX wave guides. I have used walnut, black ash, white ash fumed, and rosewood. General finishes armour seal, Emtech spray ;lacquer and Monocoat. I have sold all but the 3's, Toris and wave guides. The 3's are staying as I condor them of reference quality, Toris in a bed room system and the wave guides I am selling. I just do not have room for all. Each model has represented incredible value and performance. I hate to use the term musical but that is what each has shared. Transparent, resolving smooth all yes but the best is they get out of the way and allow me to connect to the music and for long listening sessions. Building them for me is a blast and I will assuredly build each new model that CSS develops. I also need to say that their customer service is off the charts good. Always responsive and quickly. Maybe you should try the new bass modules? Looks intriguing and if I did not have the 3's I would build a pair.
That’s pretty cool that you built all those, sounds like you enjoy the process like myself.
I enjoyed your build videos. You made these look better than factory. Really impressive work!
Cool to hear that! I really like how they turned out.
Excellent review! I really enjoyed all 3 parts. What kind of speaker stands are those? They look great and really solid
Monoprice easel stands, they come in a few heights amzn.to/3AVPtRW
Zero 7! Awesome. How did you avoid a copywrite strike? I am the same way with speakers. I bet they sound great on the Cambridge. Great review.
Hey! I paid for the rights on this one. I need to find a new intro song as I can’t keep buying it for each video. They do sound great and I actually fired them up with the new ex line up last night, good times.
@@MattCoykendall1 I bet that sounded great. I am further down the food chain for the EX. They did however send me the Edge A, which I reviewed.
That Edge A is an interesting unit, I like the sleek minimalist look.
@@MattCoykendall1 It is a real power house as well. Talk to Matt and maybe I ship it to you.
Hi Matt! I didn’t get around to watch this one, so I am late to the scene. But good to hear your diy-project is a great success, these Critons are beasts, I love em to bits too. If have 2 questions for you, I hope you have the patience and time to get back to me. Do you have an idea how far away from the backwall the Critons should be placed at least to avoid base-bloating and for the Critons to perform their best? I think I have overlooked your review on the Audiolab 9000A, but I am considering upgrading to this amp from the 6000A. Have you listened to the Critons with the 9000A, and if so, can you give me a sense of their synergy? Does the combination make them to polite? Or the midrange to pronounced? Etc, any input is welcome. All the best Matt! Gerlach Sven.
For my placement I ended up around 14-16” from the back wall. I am playing around with building some bass traps right now so that distance will likely change in the future. The 9000a can power them to their full potential, as for the mid range my suggestion would be to keep the toe in to a minimum on these and keep the angle just outside of your ears rather than direct at you. I would say you’re going to find that perfect blend of pronunciation and politeness just by toying with the placement a bit, also check out the new Cambridge Exa100, both great options.
@@MattCoykendall1 thank you kindly for your prompt response, much appreciated. From your description I take the Critons make a great combo with the 9000A, so good hear. I have tried different amps by now but none give me the musical but easy going sonics I am looking for, so perhap the 9000A is a solid option, easy going like the 6000A but hifi instead of mid-fi. I am going to start working on some stands this weekend to give the critons some more room to breath .... Again, thank you kindly, all the best! Gerlach Sven.
I was looking at these but couldn’t justify spending that much and I still have to build it and I don’t even have the tools to build it correctly so more cost
No biggie, not for everyone
Did you try these with your Audiolab amp? I just ordered this speaker kit, and now I'm nervous that my 6000a will be turned into a place holder for a new amp!
You will be good, its on the lower limits of where I like to be on these but as long as its not going in a large space your volume limits should be fine here.
@@MattCoykendall1 Thanks for your reply. If it doesn't work in my space, I'll add an Emotiva A2 poweramp, and use the 6000a as a pre-amp fed by the Wiim ultra. The kit hasn't arrived yet. Can't wait to get started!
I absolutely adore my 1TDX! I did the baltic birch and crossover upgrades. I didn't veneer them but I might down the road as even with pre-treating the stain is meh. I fully agree with you regarding the power needs. Personally, I don't really trust CSS's sensitivity ratings. Mine were good with a 100W Marantz receiver but when I switched to monoblocs it was like I had bought a different speaker. Put some real, high-current watts on these and you will be rewarded richly. I have 12 pairs of speakers from vintage to new and these are the ones that make folks stop and comment on how good they sound.
Like I mentioned in the video it’s sort of the every-mans sound, a little something for everyone
Good to hear ur comment about mono blocks. I’m using a Denon AVR but waiting on my 200 Watt per channel B200 mono blocks.
I love paper speakers.
IMO If a kit sells for 1k and the finished version sells for 2k from a direct to consumer model and a estimated 3-4k if sold retail then that's where the comparison should be, so to me a 1k kit should at least be in the same conversation as a 3k + retail speaker to be considered a great value.
Could certainly make some interesting comparisons
Hi Matt:
Love the look of the new room. Very nice indeed.
The speakers are very interesting to me... but I have a question, that I hope you can answer:
Your setup isn't that different than what I commonly see in people's living rooms but in general they seem to prefer the speakers to be lower to the ground... (less obvious). Some even have them on the floor, which for a bookshelf sized speaker is not optimal.
Have you tested these CSS speakers on lower stands, say about 16 or 18 inches and, how do they sound?
I have not as I have my placement a little more in line with my ear level. I would say judging by listening observations that the vertical response could potentially disrupt the performance a bit if it was aggressively low. If that lower placement was required their new waveguide design would likely perform a bit stronger in that case.
@@MattCoykendall1
Thank you.
The production quality is next level now! Watch out John Darko.
Not to that level yet but I am certainly trying to improve the review process as well as the actual videos each time. Appreciate the words though!
Super Video!
Thank you very much!
Excellent series and review. Wish I were a little more confident in my woodworking abilities to give this a try. Just want to say how much i look forward to and enjoy your channel.
These kits are well designed, it’s a good starting point for sure, and like I said we all make mistakes haha
Built mine last year. Don't get enough time to listen to between all my projects. But really enjoyed the punch for a speaker of that size.
Its always endless projects isn't it. I hope you find some time to enjoy them soon.
Great Matt, I'm getting closer and closer to pull the trigger on a pair 1 or 2TD-X with mdf FP and crossover upgrades!
Go for it!
Thanks Matt, great 1TD-X series.
I had these on a loan from a friend who built them, and I really wanted to order a kit.
But, since I'm living in Serbia, when I factored in transport, customs, and VAT costs, this turned out to be a costly proposition for me and out of my budget.
I regret it since I really liked the relaxed sound, good imaging and scene width, and an unexpectedly deep and tight bass.
In my opinion, this is a very tough rival to much more expensive models from mainstream manufacturers. For example, I liked it much better than the KEF LS50s, which is a very good speaker in its own right.
What a pain with the extra costs, hard to avoid those customs and VAT fee’s I’m sure with a lot of products.
Soundimport got them for you, within the EU
@rikardekvall3433 Yes, thank you, I know that. The kit is selling for 1.200 eur, plus shipping, customs, and VAT. They would be min. 1.700 eur when they come to me. So, it was not an option
@ Even 1700 is a lot of money and still a DIY. But when you compare sound quality and imaging with other speakers, how much doesn’t they then cost? It’s really hard to get the same fit and finish as big brand when you DIY. But ask yourself, do I want a furniture that sounds okay or a okay looking box that sounds great? Speakers is hard enough to be WAF approved 😉
Buchardt S400mk2 works.
@rikardekvall3433 I've had no complaints regarding their sound. Didn't care too much about appearances.They were outside of my budget, unfortunately
I prefer my circa 82’ Boston A150’s, no sub ever necessary….
I built these 1TdX with the $400 upgrade and I have them in an A/B setup with a pair of Lintons. I find myself preferring these about 90% of the time.
How do they compare sonically?
A little more detailed or refined sound than the Lintons?
I like the speakers. but for the price they are charging i dont see the value. you are getting dayton audio parts for some of the components. they want another 400 bucks to upgrade from dayton parts ? no way. you can buy fantastic already made speakers for the price of the kit. dont see the appeal as you can design and build your own speakers if thats your interest for much less than the price of the kit.
To each their own right, all good
Dayton parts are still better than crossovers built to a price point. They’re real caps, real resistors, air core inductors. The price on the parts is fair, they aren’t ridiculously marked up or anything.
Well you don’t know what you are missing here. All of us here in the comment column would really like to see a YT video by you, showing all of us, how you R&D and build with Dayton parts, a as good sounding, same measurements, cheaper speaker then this CSS.
Check out some reviews where they compare these to $7000, 8, even $10,000 speakers. I’m not saying they beat them, but they do run with them.
If you could buy a car for slightly cheaper but you have to install the engine and gearbox yourself, would you?
I have completed engine swaps during restoration and enjoyed it so you might be asking the wrong person.
@MattCoykendall1
I'm talking a brand new car purchase
I get what you’re saying, I just really enjoy this type of thing though, all good.
Great LQQKing video👍
Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass🔈🔉🔊
Thanks!
I didn't think I was going to like how these were going to look when it was just the dyed veneer but the two tone affect with gloss black baffle really makes all the difference, they look great!
Regarding the space do you plan on doing a video on everything you've done? I plan on doing a similar wood slat wall and I'd be interested to see how you built yours. Are the panels just mounted on 1" standoffs and floating off the wall? It would also to see before and after measurements, if you made them that is.
I am going to cover the wall in a bit for detail in a video coming up. When I was looking for examples of the install on here a lot of them were missing key things on how to install them around outlets and actually make it look complete.
Yea…I would lean toward the encore vice these…for less.
Great review. I missed the other parts so... now I have to go backwards.
Hope you enjoy the series, it was a fun project.
@@MattCoykendall1 I am done watching all. 👍👍
Classix 2 speakers are lots cheaper and sound warm much like these.
I just wish the drivers were from scan speak or something not made in China...
>crossover upgrade
welp, i'm out.
Ok
@MattCoykendall1 all I can say is WOW! I wish I had the patience for a home build. Something to plan for … I think they’re on sale now.
You should go for it some day!
@ I keep watching your channel and I just might!!! I like your statement of how much value you get for the money.