Dude, even after 9 years this video is still helpful. After I, like a dumb ass, ran my KRL out of gas, it wouldn't idle anymore. Obviously debris in the idle circuit, i didn't really want to spend the time on it but i watched your video and went out to the garage. I was done, side panels, gas tank, and seat ,in less than an hour and half. once again it runs like a charm. Thanks for you efforts!
Great video!! A little tip if you have crash guards. If you are having trouble accessing the pilot jet turn the carb in the opposite direction towards the clutch lever side. You will have full access to main and pilot jet without having to pinch in between the exhaust and crash bars. I was able to complete this task in about 15 min tops. Thanks Tito for the great video :)
Great Video!!! Helped me get my KLR back on the road after it had been sitting for a year with out running. Had an idle problem and cleaning the jets was the ticket to get it back on the road. Some tips: 1) it helps to turn the carb about 90 degrees in order to get to the four screws on the bottom. 2) be careful when working with the carb in this position (90*). There is a pin that holds the float in place and it slipped out when I was working with the carb turned on its side. It is very small and luckily I was able to find it. Could have caused a simple fix to become a big headache. It'd be a good idea to place a rag under the carb as you are working. 3) Spray both jets and inside of carb with some good carb cleaner. Hope this helps. On a scale of 1-5 with 5 being difficult I'd give this 2.5. Simple and easy. Thanks.
Fitting a inline filter into the fuel line from the tank, is the best protection against dirty fuel getting to your carb, and check the vaccum line for cracking as they can do that.
thanks pal. i just spent the day sticking guitar strings up that brass hole forward of the main jet thinking it was the pilot before watching this. now i will try again. this time i bet i get it right.
It worked! Had to make a special tool to get the jet out - ground down a long driver bit to make it skinny enough to get up in there and then I could twist it by the flats with pliers. Breaking the screws loose at the bowl was tough, too. Used a pair of pliers that had sharp teeth so I could grab the screws by the side of the head. Otherwise, a screwdriver would just round out the slots as I couldn't get enough inward pressure on the screw. Tight little suckers. But it's done. it idles now and it was a lot easier than the alternative. Many thanks from East Tennessee!
I read online you need to be careful with the choke housing on the left side when rotating it to do this. Just a tip for people doing this. I'm going to do this probably either tonight or this weekend. Thanks for the video!
I did this after my carburetor got clogged and wouldn't run and now she is back up and running and didn't have to remove the carb or take the tank off! Thank you for the video!
Thank you, Tito. I did tighten a header bolt which was slightly less tight than the other one. By tomorrow I will try your suggestion on the air mixture screw. Will post a note for you and other subscribers as to what effect it has.
Are there any special tools needed to do this job? What screwdriver fits the clamp that holds down the rubber intake boot? Have to loosen to turn the carb
Are both jets supposed to be tightened all the way or are you supposed to leave them out a certain amount of threads? My buddies klr is having trouble starting. Only starts on choke once in a while. Once i get it started itll backfire and pop. But once your accelerating it runs ok.
Hello Tito: Perhaps you have suggestions for me. My KLR650 pops very bad whenever I am decelerating even at low speeds, but Really Bad when coasting down a grade. The bike came from sea level but is being ridden at approx. 6,000ft above. Thanks, in advance, Mark
Mark Feinberg I would start by enriching out the air/fuel mixture. Turn air mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and test ride to see if it helps. Also make sure header bolts are tight on the exhaust.
Tito Sean Hello Tito, I did enrich the air/fuel mixture through the tube of the pilot jet. However, I am still getting significant popping at the exhaust when decelerating. I removed the carburetor, checked that the coasting circuit was not clogged, but it was clear. I will turn in (clockwise) the mixture screw again 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem. Other than that I do not know what to try.
My bike seems to idle fine and run fine but occasionally my KLR will stall if I’m coasting with the clutch in or if I’m coasting with the bike in neutral in additional it starts fine with the choke on but usually stalls out when I turn the choke off even when the bike is fully warm then I have to start it again with the choke off and it starts right up any suggestions
Hey man want to do the same on my 2 stroke scooter but I'm worried about having fuel and oil leaking out? Should I remove the fuel lines and block them up with something
You are confusing the jets with air mixture screw. Jets are always screwed in all the way and air mixture screw is turned out depending on bike upgrades and altitude
The video was a little hard to follow because the lightning was not good and when you were trying to show a close up of the carb the camera was looking straight at the exhaust pipe. I ended up taking the gas tank off and all the hoses so I could get the carb out. There was no other way to get the pilot jet out. It was tight in there.
I have done this method once, and removed carb once to clean pilot jet...... they both sucked, lots of swearing! But I think just removing carb, tank etc might be easier 🤬
Are you sure it's all right to spray carb cleaner up there? When using that stuff you're supposed to keep it away from your rubber diaphragm, else it can cause it to deteriorate and fail before it would normally.
TeflonTrout I have used this method of carb cleaning on many bikes without issues. Carb cleaner does destroy rubber if left on there in liquid form for a while. Just a quick spray and they blow out with air will not harm anything.
Buuuruuh....your method looks rough imo. If you're going to go through that much trouble, plus more risk of losing parts, you might as well fully remove it and take it under good lighting on a table or workbench.
Dude, even after 9 years this video is still helpful. After I, like a dumb ass, ran my KRL out of gas, it wouldn't idle anymore. Obviously debris in the idle circuit, i didn't really want to spend the time on it but i watched your video and went out to the garage. I was done, side panels, gas tank, and seat ,in less than an hour and half. once again it runs like a charm. Thanks for you efforts!
Thanks for the comment. Glad the video was helpful
Great video!!
A little tip if you have crash guards. If you are having trouble accessing the pilot jet turn the carb in the opposite direction towards the clutch lever side. You will have full access to main and pilot jet without having to pinch in between the exhaust and crash bars. I was able to complete this task in about 15 min tops. Thanks Tito for the great video :)
good advice
Great Video!!! Helped me get my KLR back on the road after it had been sitting for a year with out running. Had an idle problem and cleaning the jets was the ticket to get it back on the road.
Some tips:
1) it helps to turn the carb about 90 degrees in order to get to the four screws on the bottom.
2) be careful when working with the carb in this position (90*). There is a pin that holds the float in place and it slipped out when I was working with the carb turned on its side. It is very small and luckily I was able to find it. Could have caused a simple fix to become a big headache. It'd be a good idea to place a rag under the carb as you are working.
3) Spray both jets and inside of carb with some good carb cleaner.
Hope this helps. On a scale of 1-5 with 5 being difficult I'd give this 2.5. Simple and easy.
Thanks.
Fitting a inline filter into the fuel line from the tank, is the best protection against dirty fuel getting to your carb, and check the vaccum line for cracking as they can do that.
thanks pal. i just spent the day sticking guitar strings up that brass hole forward of the main jet thinking it was the pilot before watching this. now i will try again. this time i bet i get it right.
Instead of Vise grips get a small wrench will fit those bits. Likely 1/4 "
It worked! Had to make a special tool to get the jet out - ground down a long driver bit to make it skinny enough to get up in there and then I could twist it by the flats with pliers. Breaking the screws loose at the bowl was tough, too. Used a pair of pliers that had sharp teeth so I could grab the screws by the side of the head. Otherwise, a screwdriver would just round out the slots as I couldn't get enough inward pressure on the screw. Tight little suckers. But it's done. it idles now and it was a lot easier than the alternative. Many thanks from East Tennessee!
I read online you need to be careful with the choke housing on the left side when rotating it to do this. Just a tip for people doing this. I'm going to do this probably either tonight or this weekend. Thanks for the video!
I did this after my carburetor got clogged and wouldn't run and now she is back up and running and didn't have to remove the carb or take the tank off! Thank you for the video!
Did you turn the carb all the way to get access to the 4 screws on bottom holding the float bowl?
How did you get the 2 screws on the opposite side?
Thank you, Tito. I did tighten a header bolt which was slightly less tight than the other one. By tomorrow I will try your suggestion on the air mixture screw. Will post a note for you and other subscribers as to what effect it has.
easy simple and valuable, thnaks for the video
Are there any special tools needed to do this job? What screwdriver fits the clamp that holds down the rubber intake boot? Have to loosen to turn the carb
You will just need basic tools. A phillips head screw driver and some wrenches will get the job done
Thanks for that info. Can I turn the carb almost 90 degrees to get the 4 screws that are holding the float bowl? Don’t want to break anything
@@jasonm7651 probably not 90 degrees but enough to get clear access to the screws
What did you use to get the screws on the bottom?
I don’t want to strip them as they are pretty tight and the screws are easy to strip
Are both jets supposed to be tightened all the way or are you supposed to leave them out a certain amount of threads? My buddies klr is having trouble starting. Only starts on choke once in a while. Once i get it started itll backfire and pop. But once your accelerating it runs ok.
Hello Tito: Perhaps you have suggestions for me. My KLR650 pops very bad whenever I am decelerating even at low speeds, but Really Bad when coasting down a grade. The bike came from sea level but is being ridden at approx. 6,000ft above.
Thanks, in advance,
Mark
Mark Feinberg I would start by enriching out the air/fuel mixture. Turn air mixture screw 1/4 turn clockwise and test ride to see if it helps. Also make sure header bolts are tight on the exhaust.
Tito Sean Hello Tito,
I did enrich the air/fuel mixture through the tube of the pilot jet. However, I am still getting significant popping at the exhaust when decelerating. I removed the carburetor, checked that the coasting circuit was not clogged, but it was clear. I will turn in (clockwise) the mixture screw again 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem. Other than that I do not know what to try.
My bike seems to idle fine and run fine but occasionally my KLR will stall if I’m coasting with the clutch in or if I’m coasting with the bike in neutral in additional it starts fine with the choke on but usually stalls out when I turn the choke off even when the bike is fully warm then I have to start it again with the choke off and it starts right up any suggestions
I would adjust the idle speed and check your air mixture screw. In CA air mixture at 2-1/2 turns out works perfect.
@@ebay111978 Thanks. I will check the air mixture as I have already tried opening the idle
How to calibrate the passage of air and gasoline in klr 650
Hey man want to do the same on my 2 stroke scooter but I'm worried about having fuel and oil leaking out? Should I remove the fuel lines and block them up with something
You should drain the carb before doing this and as long as the fuel petcock is on off position there will be no fuel leak.
Thank you
What year klr was this?
2005
can the float be cleaned with this method too?
If you need to clean the float might be best to take the carb off the bike. It can be done this way but will be much difficult
@@ebay111978 Thanks
And is there supposed to be springs on these jets?
Ryan Sanfelippo there are no springs in the jets. There is a spring under the air mixture screw.
Tito Sean
Where is the air/ fuel mixture screw
Tito Sean
And does that mean both jets should ve tightened all the way? No quarter turn back from being tight?
You are confusing the jets with air mixture screw. Jets are always screwed in all the way and air mixture screw is turned out depending on bike upgrades and altitude
The video was a little hard to follow because the lightning was not good and when you were trying to show a close up of the carb the camera was looking straight at the exhaust pipe.
I ended up taking the gas tank off and all the hoses so I could get the carb out. There was no other way to get the pilot jet out. It was tight in there.
I have done this method once, and removed carb once to clean pilot jet...... they both sucked, lots of swearing! But I think just removing carb, tank etc might be easier 🤬
When I remove pilot jet do I have to count turns?
Are you sure it's all right to spray carb cleaner up there? When using that stuff you're supposed to keep it away from your rubber diaphragm, else it can cause it to deteriorate and fail before it would normally.
TeflonTrout I have used this method of carb cleaning on many bikes without issues. Carb cleaner does destroy rubber if left on there in liquid form for a while. Just a quick spray and they blow out with air will not harm anything.
+Tito Seean Perfect, that's good to know!
Buuuruuh....your method looks rough imo. If you're going to go through that much trouble, plus more risk of losing parts, you might as well fully remove it and take it under good lighting on a table or workbench.
i get it but dude just take off the tank and seat :)
Just as a reminder if you're buying a used bike maybe run the gas out of it and put fresh gas in before you worry about this
You need to get a flashlight asap
Just when I thought I knew everything.....
Thanks for the tips, go dirtbags!!!
You need a camera man...evrrytime you show sonething of importance you moved the camera
Just when I thought I knew everything.....