How I clean my carb trail-side | Masons ADV | KLR 650
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- After losing power while cruising down the highway, we stopped to see if I could sort out the issue and that led to a road-side carby tear down. Hopefully, this info will help you out on your ADVentures!
Cheers,
Mason.
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@Masons ADV I see a lot of people removing the throttle cables like you just did (nothing wrong with that), but I find it is easier to only remove the screw that holds the bracket for the throttle cables.Once the bracket is loose you can undo the them from the slots they sit into.
Yes, that does make it easier and I have done that before. Good to have this posted here 👍 Cheers!
Was going to say, I've had to remove it twice and I simply removed the single screw. I saw one other poster mention if you strip that screw for the bracket, that you'll need a new carb. Just be careful, remove the single screw👍
It is amazing how much of a failure you feel like after all that work and it doesn't start (forgot to re-connect my vacuum line to the petcock - took me an hour of sulking to figure it out). :) Great video.
Thanks for the video. I just had the same issue arise in on my 2015 KLR. I was on the freeway when I lost the ability to go faster than 80km/hr. I was only 75k from home so was able to limp back. After lots of searching and asking questions on forums , I came across your video and recognized it was likely the same issue I had. I was able to clean my pilot jet assembly without having to remove the carb and it fixed the problem. And now I am better for it, knowing I could do this roadside.
Hello there, I have been following you for a while now and you just convinced me to get a KLR, USED! I have been riding for somewhere around, a long time, if I think about how many years I get scared! Let's put it this way I am in my early 60's! Not that it matters too many! I have a couple bikes, including a 14 GSA, and it is getting too heavy for me! Best bike ever made for long haul, but she's just getting to be too much! Don't get me wrong, I am not selling it but she will be dedicated to gravel and fire roads! No more of that extreme enduro! After watching you "rebuilt" a carb I just remembered the days, when like you, I would fix my own, on the side of the road! No electronics, no nothing! Is there fuel going from the tank to the carb? Yes, so is there fuel getting into the carb? Yes. Ignition? Yes! So, let's clean up that sucker! Blow in it! And there she goes! Sorry about the long text! I just love what you do and how you can fix pretty much anything! See you on the road maybe soon! Cheers
Hey Patrick, that's awesome news :) They are super easy to maintain and work on for sure. Good luck with your bike search 👍 Cheers :)
Yep. Sure enough stripped out the screws holding the float bowl. Was as careful as I can be what with my bikes tool roll and my meaty hands. Was told afterwards that you should (must?) use JIS drivers because they’ll match the pitch of these screws.
Bike (17 klr) is running choppy. Broke down in Ojai California. Power drops out above 3k rpm. Idles fine. Whilst crossing Ts & dotting Is also checked the air filter (fine/clean). But on a whim I removed the filter and covered the mesh airbox hole with a rag. When starved for air, she ran great; no power drops and could hold rpm’s above 4-5k. So she was getting too much air.
With a god damned sweat sock stuffed into the pocket of the UNI filter, I limped it to a friendly driveway and that’s where I stripped my floatbowl screws.
But big gratitude for this video that got me this far! Not sure where from here. Maybe limp it to KAWI service in Santa Barbara.
Stay tuned
At 6:54, just remove the whole bracket, 1 Phillips screw, throttle cables removed. They stay in the bracket. Wiggle them out of the slots.... JD Jetting provides the bottom bolts Allens..
5:42 Was going to comment the same. Whole bracket comes off, it's faster, easier and doesn't lose the adjustment.
I am not so sure the issue is weak screw heads as it is over tightening and use of the wrong screwdriver. Japanese screws are JIS, not Philips and Philips style screwdrivers will ruin JIS screws over time. Those small screws don’t need a lot of torque to stay in place. Many folks, including those working at the factory, put those things in “farmer tight” which makes removing them difficult. Generally, all you need is to screw them down until they make contact and then maybe 1/16 of a turn more. You get a feel or it after a while, but if you look at the torque requirements for a screw of this size, it is very small. They need to be just a little more than snug, not cranked down as hard as one can turn a screwdriver.
Yes, exactly! The problem is many of us do not have the JIS driver and attempt to use the Phillips, lol. The EM kit or a trip to the local hardware solves that. Cheers LT!
Ya theyre JIS screws, its a common problem with those carbs and DRZs too when trying to jet or do carb work🙄. Thats why they make hammers heh🔧🔨🪓💣. Nice point tho LTV- Mason👏, I was looking through the comments just to see if that was addressed.🧐 Mason is real good about catching comments heh👍
“That allows me to make sure that I have the tools I need when I’m in the field.”
Great advice.
It's been a life saver for sure! Cheers Tommy 👍
Thank you Young Man. I was just about to pull my carb due to stalling every time I tried to rev up. Watched your video and that really saved a lot of unnecessary work. I owe you a milkshake, ride safe. Doug
I can't begin to tell you the wealth of knowledge in this video. We own 2 KLR's - one runs like a top, the other is a bit of a dog. We plan to tear into carbs later this season and compare one to the other. We know the oe that runs great has been "tinkered" with. The "doggy" one appears to be completely factory. I was dreading removal of the carbs... This video showed me that it may not be necessary. Thanks again Mason!
Awesome! Glad to help :) Best of luck with the project. I'm sure you can sort it out. They are very simple once you get into them. Cheers!
So I went to start my 2018 KLR that I bought new this year in February and had to keep the choke on for it to keep running. Only sat for about 10 days since I last started it. It would rev up okay but couldn't idle. Checked everything I could think of and was about to rent the trailer to haul it over to Kawasaki. I found this video and followed every step and also put fresh gas in. Its running like a top now! Thanks so much for your awesome videos so knuckleheads like me can spend more time riding and less at the service shop!
Fantastic!! Nice job :) I'm glad it helped you out. Cheers Myles!
The fuel in my KLR went bad. 95% certain I’ve got a clogged jet pilot. After almost 2 hrs of looking at UA-cam vids, yours was by far the most helpful to this newb mechanic on how to do everything!!
Awesome Mark! Glad to help :)
Masons ADV Learned about Sea Foam fuel additive so figured I’d try it before tearing the bike apart. After running the bike, would only start with choke on full open, 3 separate times with a 60/40 ratio gas/sea foam it cleaned it out and got the bike back to full power! Definitely saved this video for the future lol
I bought a decent set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers before doing any maintenance on my '17. Not a single screw head mangled in four years. Learned the hard way that Phillips doesn't equal JIS.
Nice, Your right about phillips being different than JIS. I also have a set but have now swapped my JIS screws out for allen head. One less tool to carry ;) Cheers!
Excellent video Mason. I'm beginning to get some stutter between 3500 - 4000 rpms in every gear. Think I'll give this a shot (unless you think it may be something else). Great video! Thank you!
Did you ever source out the root cause of your issue? Sounds very much like mine: a fuel/air mix issue i've been chasing for a full calendar year.
Thank you Mason! This is the best,most informative video on how to get to and clean the carb on UA-cam. I have a '98 KLR out in the garage that needs the carburetor cleaned. Now I know how to do it! Thanks!!
Cheers Chris 👍 good luck!
Unlike you, I always hit reserve and never have trouble. But, I suspect moving that petcock from on-reserve may introduce rubber shavings into the fuel. The real issue came up for me when I decided to test my reserve range. I died at 305 miles and no idle after. I suspect such a deep cycle of the bowl rarely occurs and allow a good churn of the sediment. Hindsight, I think opening the bowl drain once and a while is great insurance.
Thank you for ypur time filming and editing these videos... you sharing your knowledge is saving all us new upcoming riders money and most importantly saving us time!!! Keep it up good sir and maybe see ya on the trails this season 💪💪
My pleasure! Glad to hear it helps :) Cheers and ride safe!
Aw man that's a lot of bad on a great trip!! I did see the Instagram post. Certain gas stations on Manitoulin have bad fuel... One being an ESSO on 542...
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!! It certainly helps so many in the community!!! Cheers
Ha, well it sure made it an adventure! One I was happy to get home from 😉 👍
Water in fuel ??- need a fat clear fuel filter , fitted horizonatlly, with hi in and out outlets , so that water/crap falls to bottom of filter. Great video- thanks Mason!
That sealant that was in your carb is most likely the petcock diaphragm breaking down, attach a line to the vacuum portion and see if it holds tight, should hold vacuum until you let off and keep gas flowing (use spare line from tank to a separate container) at the same time, if its failing you'll constantly have to put suction on the line to keep gas flowing.
That will put chunks of crap in your carb and mess up a good day lol
I have switched to a manual petcock but thanks :) Cheers!
I had black gunk in my carb too. So just replace the petcock? It is getting hard to turn.
I actually used your video to help me fix a stuck float needle on my CV carb on my 1992 FSXTC. Thanks!!
Glad it helped! Cheers!
You are a great instructor, thanks, very helpful.
Glad to help! Cheers 👍
Nice video Mason. Wanted to piggyback a comment you touched on about having done it b4 so when it did happen to you on the trail, you knew you could do it. My dad was a mechanic and when I raced my 80cc bikes, he taught me to strip down my carbs. So at age 12’ish, I would take my carb off and inspect my jets, etc. It’s really not that hard as you said. Not a bad idea for all to do a teardown one afternoon so when/if it should happen on the trail, you know you can do it ! Good stuff Mason !
Haha, Old Mason made me do the same. If something wasn't working he would just say tear it down and see whats wrong! lol. It builds the confidence needed to tackle these challenges as they appear out side the shop. Cheers!
Hey thank you, for making this video. Not only was it step by step and easily understood, but it was educational and so far has solved my problems. It was easier than I thought and once done didnt take long to finish buttoning up. Thank you!!!!!!
Awesome! That's great and i'm glad to help :) Cheers!
Yo, excellent channel, learned a lot and will continue to do so. 2010 KLR here, 25,000km, well modded before purchase early this month. Had it shop serviced once, will continue to do so. Happy happy. Thank you, fantastic information.
Glad to help! Enjoy that KLR and ride safe :) Cheers Jordy!
Thanks for sharing your experience and tear down exercise. I had the same issue some time back and was able to get home by dumping the fuel from the bowl on each occasion when the bike stopped. Thankfully it only happened 3 or 4 times, usually straight after high speed over erosion mounds. Got the bike home and carried out exactly what you have done here. Carby appeared to be all clean and jets clear but I also drained fuel tank to examine fuel. Found a small amount of water in the fuel tank. I suspect that water may have entered the tank during a bike washing task. I remember once dropping bike trail side and seeing fuel seeping out of filler cap where if sealed against tank so I figured if fuel can seep out then water could seep in. I now always take care when washing the bike, particularly when washing around the top of the fuel tank.
Good advise there. The water can come from anywhere. Condensation, bad fuel or possibly a bad tank seal for sure. Draining the bowl from time to time is good insurance 👍
Good info! That was the method I used when I installed the KLX needle kit. Now, things I need after seeing this....inline filter and I have been meaning to add some spare tubing as well.
Nice Ron! Yeah, that method saves a lot of time. Cheers man :)
I’m going to have to watch this one closer after work, excellent work.
Those Japanese heads on the carb are buggers, I just loosened them today and I have EM’s kit to replace them.
Nice Pinkie! Yeah, mine are on order ;) Cheers!
@@masonsadv This really is an excellent video on the KLR's carb. You brought up a few of the things I messed up, like breaking the choke cable. I bought a straight manual choke from 3D Cycle Parts and a couple inline fuel filters. I'll have to do the old bend at the waist to enrich the bike at start up but if it works it'll eliminate that elbow and those headaches. I also hat to order a new set of boots because I tore one when I removed the carb. Gentle, my touch is not.
Oh man, I'm heavy handed too! A torque wrench is a have tool around here 😆
Masons ADV 😂 Same here. I bought a small one from a bicycle shop a while back. I like the lil guy on those delicate fasteners.
Thanks for posting this, Mason.
It's a 'wake up' call and I probably need to decant the fuel from my tank and check it because I don't run on the reserve portion ever.
Plus installing an inline filter....Stuff to keep me busy.
Regards from S Africa
Clive
It's easy to check and nice to know 😉👍Enjoy the tinkering! Cheers Clive.
Very informative video! One thing that I would like to add is that Japanese motorcycles, to include Mikuni or Kehin carbs, do not use Phillips screws, they are actually JIS screws (Japanese Industrial Standard) which are different. If you use a Phillips screw driver on JIS screws it tends to cam out of the slot and strip out the head. Make sure that you get JIS screw drivers (Vessel or Hozan available on Amazon) when working on these bikes and its likely that you won't have a problem with stripping out screw heads.
Well done Mason.. thank you.
I need one of those small ratchets. Thanks for the lesson!
Handy size for the tool kit Scratch :) Cheers man!
NIce Video Mason, I make it a point to swap out all the Philips heads that I can for Hex cap screws everywhere on the bike. These are so much easier to remove and you can stick them on the end of an Allen wrench when putting them back in. Love the channel, keep up the good work ...
Nice Alan! The 8 screws on the carb may be the only non-hex head screws on my bike 😄 I have done the rest.
Thank you great video. You Gave me confidence to take this on myself.
Super interesting vid, no longer intimidated on cracking open the carby. Thanks a bunch!!
Perfect 👍 Cheers Juan!
just tore down my WR carb and rebuilt it. it was a huge learning EXP.
and it can be fun if your not on the side of the trail! 😄
Yikes, this seems more complicated than Brain Surgery. Great instructional video. Thanks
Great video, and nicely done handling the roadside repairs. My tool kit is also pretty complete and specific to the KLR, outside an odd end or two, for the wife,s Versys X300.
Ha, mine has some XT 250 tools too ;)
I put sta-bil in before winter too.....now this....arrghh!!
To take the throttle cables off the carb skip ahead and remove the bracket with the philips style JIS screw, this gives you enough room to remove the cables from the carb. without messing with the adjustment nuts. Also check your factory in line filter at the metal carb inlet.
Right Rob! The inline screen has been removed from my bike but that's important for a stock carb. Thanks!
@@masonsadv I figured you did, but most owners might not know it's in there. Great video, thanks for going through the whole process
Dude, great video. I was looking for a video like this in 2017. There wasn't any good video of how to take apart and clean the carb on the newer klr's.
Thank you! Sorry I was a bit late ;) Cheers!
@@masonsadv Hey man no reason to be sorry for doing something great. Thanks for everything you do awesome content.
i recently bought a 2000, which is gen1 and they have almost the same everything carb-wise. So its a great video probably right through until the current gen.
Good morning! Very informative video. Thanks for posting.
Cheers Mike!
Thanks Mason, Good thing to practice before you have to do it on the trail. Stay up on two
Cheers Big B!
Some very useful information in this one. Glad you were able to sort it out on your trip. Have a good week.
Thanks TMoF! It sure was an adventure :D Cheers!
This is Bryan. Great video, I have not put a fuel filter on yet either. It seems the fuel line is so short it's hard to get a filter in there.
Yeah, I replaced my fuel line with a longer section to make it a bit easier. Cheers.
Great job! Interesting video. Looking forward to seeing your in line fuel filter install and to hear why your switching back to the tkc80s.
The inline fuel filter install is at the beginning of this vid ua-cam.com/video/lie-0ovcEDU/v-deo.html and I will do an update on the tires shortly :) Cheers!
What a well done video. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great info. As always very precise and informative. I heard you mention Muskoka on a future trip. Beautiful area from what I remember. Look forward to traveling up that way next summer with my wife who’s from Calgary.
Thank you 🙂 Sounds like a great trip! Cheers!
will be doing my carb tonight. suspect pilot jet
leave the cables tight (adjusted) on the bracket but remove the bracket and then the cable ends from the bellcrank. Saves lots of time and there's not need to readjust the cables.
Use a JIS screwdriver on those 'phillips' screws- Vessel makes 'em and they're very affordable. the Impacta madel doubles as an impact driver in a CCW diredtion- very cool!
Regardless of what contaminates your carb innards, the pilot jet is the one to check first, and often the only one that needs to be cleaned.
If you use ethanol fuels, the 'phase'separation' happens within weeks and results in water in your tank (and will eventually rust it out). Even using a fuel stabilizer may not help. The fuel filter will not stop the water from getting into your carb. It looks like all you needed to do on the road was drain the water from the float bowl- Always try that first but collect that drained 'fluid' to inspect it.
Thanks for the input Richard. Instead of carrying the JIS I have changed mine to Philips head. The carby float bowl had debris in it, not just water so draining it didn't help. It had to be removed and cleaned.
Ride on! Cheers :)
Great job Mason! Explained very well.
Cheers Joe!
Those carb screws will last a lot longer with the japanese version of Phillips bit. It's subtly different and the screws will fail every time without. Or just replace them with NA style Phillips
Yes, your right. I have a JIS driver but have switched the screws to phillips head so I can use any readily available driver. Cheers!
Great video!! Cheers from Argentina
Another great vlog Mason & epic job on the hat gopro mound 😁
Thanks Eamon! 😄👍
Great video. Love the setup you have in your garage
Thanks Shane. 👍 Small shop forces some creative storage ;)
Interesting haven’t done much carb work on my bike, thinking about a rebuild kit for this winter’s project! 👍 ☕️
Good luck Steve! Always nice to know it's clean and ready for another season. Cheers!
K.. nothing to do with this video but you should really check out a video by Shaun Murray on the Klr doohickey. It’s actually two separate videos. Totally explains the root problem of why the factory spring loses tension! I’ve watched a ton of videos but nothing that explains what’s actually going on! Just wanted to share. Basically it’s the chain guides are wearing out and the chain is stretching.... he explains it better than I can... again I just wanted to share before you check your doohickey again
Yes, thanks. I have seen that video and it certainly is something to keep an eye on. Cheers!
That black gunk your talking about sounds like it is rubber that's been in contact with ethanol for a period of time.
Yeah it does but there isn't any black rubber between the tank and the carb. All lines have been replaced with clear and I installed the manual petcock several years ago so idk, Rob. A bit of dirty water maybe? Cheers!
Excellent video! prepping for TAT run end of this month. Hopefully I will not have to do this.
I hope not too but great to know if you do! Cheers and have a great trip!
After sitting a week I just went out to ride mine and it wouldn't run without full choke on. I tapped the carburetor bowl a few times with the plastic handle of a screwdriver and it fixed it. I am wondering if my performance has been suffering due to gunk in the jets so I think I'll go ahead and check/clean them. I think those 'Phillips' bolts are actually JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) pattern bolts. A Phillips will work a few times but it's different enough to eventually cause stripping as I found out on my old Yamaha inline 4 with 4 carburetors.
My KLR is doing the same thing, cutting out around 3000 rpm, if i put the choke on it will keep running.
Sounds like a carb cleaning in your future. It can make a world of difference. Good luck :)
Now that's a keeper I'm going to dl and save. Thanks! :)
Your very welcome!
The carb had always had me a little apprehensive, Thanks
Glad to help! Cheers 👍
Thank You Mason
Your welcome. hope it helps :)
WoW, Im amazed you still use the stock choke. Ive looked at my KLR like 80 times today and my carb doesn't sit in any boats? #Canadians Really great info, any chance the debris came from the intake side, maybe bits from the air filter, the water was troubling. Great tool tips as well. I just put a kit together!
Hahaha, They dont?? Weird, mine do! I think the debris from the intake would be unlikely due to the size of the stuff I found in there but who knows? Cheers 109!
Good effort mate and thanks.
Cheers Rod! Thanks for watching 👍
The carb screws are not weak it's using Philips screwdrivers that damages them. You need to use JIS screwdrivers with these screws
Yes, I have a JIS driver but still worth changing the soft screws out to hex in my opinion. Cheers Adel.
Hey Mason, What is the mechanism / controller next to your left hand grip? Been riding a long time but haven’t seen that. Sure it’s discussed on one of your other videos. Will try and find it. 👍
"i tend to strip everything i touch" sounds like me at the strip club
Awesome video!
Cheers!
I'm willing to bet the black gunky stuff was possibly the black rubber fuel line beginning to deteriorate and being sucked into the carb?
It sure could be. I will get fresh line this week before we leave for the big trip. Cheers Kawadude 👍
Why remove throttle cables from the bracket that you remove with 1 screw anyway?
great info thank you
Your very welcome! Hope it helps. Cheers!
Try spraying WD-40 all over the carb boots to help the carb slip back in.
Good tip if you have to remove the carb completely. This method saves that step. Cheers!
My diaphragm is super worn out I can’t get it to seat into the groove any suggestions?
Great video as I have the KLX needle kit and started to do it but hesitated due to all of the warnings about breaking the choke cable fitting when twisting the carb. But you just pulled the cable out of the fitting so that the edge of the cable was not in the fitting? I didn't realize you could do that as I thought the screw fitting was part of the cable, not a separate piece.
I decided to have another go at it myself today. I had been concerned about breaking the choke cable fitting but after watching your video about trail side carb repair the light bulb to go on. Pulling the cable out of the plastic housing eliminated the stress on the cable while twisting the carb. I also decided to take off the tank this time which made the process easier, other than putting the tank back on. The bike started right up and runs a lot smoother while accelerating through the gears.
Awesome! Glad you figured it out :) Makes working on the carb easy! Cheers
Holy smokes! This is a major ordeal. I guess i should have bought a 2013 or 2014 Fuel injection model rather than a 2012 lol
Haha, fuel injection model 😄👍 Float-bowl/vacuum style Fuel injection!
Great video thanks 👍🏻
No problem 👍 Cheers Scott
Morning dude,Good video
Cheers Mike!
Great job .i will use it if I have the same problem .i had a similar problem yesterday. The bike just stalled at idle .i put it on reserve and drove to the gas station and filled up with high test but it only took a gallon and a half of fuel .oh yea before it started again I had a back fire .?. So I guess it's time to check the carb out .thank again .
Would that debris not be caught by the screen in the tank? Funny how larger chunks even made it to the carb. BTW..excellent tutorial..goin in the bank eh.
Right? That's why I'm changing my fuel lines this week. It's possible they are breaking down. Cheers.
👍🏼 a great resource
Cheers FC!
Great video! I’m about to clean my jets because mine only runs when choke is on. What size tubing did you use to drain that gas?
Thanks! Hmm, no idea. just a piece I had sitting around here.
do you have a link of the T-handle tool you have? great video that will save a lot of time
Great vid, Use the tools you carry, best advice ever👍 I saw your 3 pics on Insta, any video ? or is it Adult rated heh🤬🔨🔧🔨🥵.Good times, with good friends Im sure🙊🙉🙈. At least you got all the Murphy out of the way before your trip👍😎 After all that was the point of the shake down ride 🤣🤣🤣 Tx4V
The video of that day is here > ua-cam.com/video/hunlSa6GYsQ/v-deo.html and your right, lots of lessons learned on that trip between the tire issues and the carby cleaning ;)
Nothing's like a good old service and a cup of coffee. I dont even have a klr and still watch the hole thing😃. Dont you use condense remover in your gas? Good work and great how to do it.
KlrdocMason:))
Haha, Cheers Toby! And no, I don't but I do give it a shot of seafoam from time to time and does a similar thing. 👍
@@masonsadv lt prevent that water to build up in the tank. I put in some 1 ore 2 times a year to be safe. 🙂
I noticed you have a threaded rod holding up the bike at 1:37 in the video. I dont quite get how that's working? I've actually needed to lift it on the trail once and thankfully I found a perfect piece of wood to do the trick but something dedicated for that might be a better idea.
Yes, I built that out of some threaded rod and it's in 2 pieces so it packs down smaller. I also welded a foot and top plate so it doesn't just sink into the ground and I can use it under the swingarm or prop up the front of the skid plate to remove the front tire. Not hard to make but you can also purchase a prop. Cheers!
@@masonsadv Ah gotcha, that explains the nuts in the middle. I just noticed they were welded together as one long nut. At the top though it looks like the rod is bent 90 degrees and theres a weird little nut with something welded to it? And it's not propped right under the swingarm. It's going into that indent. Is it under the bolt that adjusts how far back the tire sits?
Great video very instructional. When are you adding the lectron carb?
Haha, not sure they would like the temps up here.
@@masonsadv too bad. Great vid tho showing KLR carb maintenance and the easier way of working on it.
Do you ever use E10 fuel? It is bad for rubber fuel lines etc so I never use it for my KLR or lawn mower etc.
Hey Drew. Up here almost all fuel has ethanol now. All we can do is use an additive from time to time and hold our breath, lol. Cheers man.
Nice avoiding having to remove the fu**er. God I hate taking the carb out. Do you use JIS scewdrivers?
Absolutely! I have changed mine from JIS to Phillips head ;)
Hey there Mason from a new subscriber downunder.. Ive recentlwy bought a new KLR and doing a few mods, Bought an aftermarket Lexx muffler and it seemes to open up the power but the noise is a little annoying on highway tyravel. can i ask what exhaust you use, i realize you have probably covered it another video i havent seen. Great channel , Cheers from OZ
Hey Paul! Glad to have you along for the ride :) I still run the stock muffler, opting for quiet over the small power gain. I can't seem to find an aftermarket muffler that is quiet and lighter. I'm not worried about the power It's the weight I would like to lower. Cheers!
Hey Mason, Thank you so much for doing this video, I am having a issue with stalling, usually when decelerating, it started happening last year after one of our trips, I suspect bad fuel so I am so glad you posted this video. On a different note, I am also in the early starting stages of creating my own channel (deciding the name is the biggest challenge right now lol), and I see you were using the sony action cams (I have 2 AS100s), any chance I could get a peak on how your hat set up looks ? :) I am have tried the headband method and find that it doesn't stay in the correct position.
Cheers from Nova Scotia !
Hey Christopher :) Glad it helped! I run the cam inverted under the peak of a ball cap. just drill a hole each side of the cam and run a ziptie up through the peak. If you set the tension correctly you can slip the camera in and out without changing the tie. Cheers!
Just joined your channel. Excellent video. What do you think of installing a guglatech tank filter with an in line filter? Thanks for sharing this video.👍👍👍
That's a very interesting product. I don't have any experience with it but for remote fuel stops, it could be a life saver! Worth looking at. Cheers!
What did u use to lift the rear up?
Hey, thanks for the tips...can you recommend an inline fuel filter? And you recommend those to avoid the shmeg in the carb. How do you maintain the fuel filter and how often? Thanks again ..great vids. BTW how are you and your crew related? Fam?...friends?
Hey Jeremy. I run the Moose Fuel Filter - 1/4in. Tubing - 0707-0040 and It doesn't need changing at all if your fuel is good. It's small but clear so you can keep an eye on it.
We are friends and I have known these guys for years. Great group ;) Cheers!
Can you or anyone put my mind at ease. I have an 18 klr 2400 Miles. I have always cleaned and lubed the chain when I wash it or get it wet. I was riding the other day down the highway and wanted to check it out so started leaning to each side to just make sure everything is good. When I leaned to my left and my head was below the wind noise I could hear my drive sprocket whizzing away. I havent really noticed it before but now it has my attention. If I am in the normal riding position I don’t hear anything. Only when I put my head down. The chain is tightened within spec, lubed, seems very aligned and 2400 miles on it. Am I just over thinking it. Looking for any input.
My guess is it's perfectly fine. Some chain noise is to be expected and the difference is likely you head position, out of the wind. Keep an eye on the sprockets, watch for wear and check for tight spots in the chain as you clean it. If everything looks normal, ride on 🙂👍
How many miles you got on that klr? great video
Just under 25000 kms. Cheers!
Hey buddy how do stop the pipe form rubbings next the pipe with tic 130
Sorry Ron. I don't understand the question.
Sorry about that to much beer
I have the tkc 130 an it’s rubbing on the on the stock pipe
How do I stop that
Thanks Ron
From the land down under
Haha No problem, it happens! Well mine just rubbed lightly so I let it wear down naturally but If its aggressive you may have bent your pipe in with a fall and bending it out a bit may help? Cheers!
@@masonsadv i just added a couple of washers in behind the mounting bolt to shim out the exhaust worked like a charm
Mason I have a question about how you removed the choke cable. I believe you said to just pull straight out. Doesn’t it have to be gently unscrewed as it’s plastic and then removed from carb? Thanks
Where the curved cable sleeve enters the carb is a push fitting. You need to be careful to pull straight out but it will just pop out. There may be an inner fitting that needs to be threaded out to change the cable? not sure, but to free up the carb you just need to pop the cable cover out of the carb. Cable remains in place. Hope that helps. Cheers :)
@@masonsadv Thanks Mason. Got it
Nice one but we got EFI´s :-) Btw?: When you come to ride it? :-) Nice one Thanks for sharing!
😄 as soon as I can get clearance for of a trip of that size!
Those screws are NOT Phillips they are J.A.P which look similar but have a different profile and Phillips screw divers will strip them !!
JIS screws but yes. Replacing them is the better option for servicing them down the road. Cheers!