I've been through several of these videos in "how to replace the gears" on your craftsman garage door opener. This one is the absolute best. Short simple. Wish I had found it first.
Almost called a Garage door tech! TYVM! This is a GREAT Vid! A side note Good you replaced ALL GEARS! I just saw another vid and he did not replace the main gear from motor! Why do all that work, and go back in to replace it, if it breaks. It's in the kit for a reason. That gear he did not replace was just as old as the one that stripped. Plastic, hardened or not will break down in time. TY AGAIN!
Add another person to the list of people you’ve helped save money! Thank You graciously. Your video was well organized with clear audio, simple easy to follow directions, and excellent video.
This video was a tremendous help to me recently! I found several decent videos for changing the vertical gear and sprocket but this is the only one I found for also changing the worm gear! Excellent instructions; thank you very much!!
Jesse Olson Thank you! To be honest the worm gear was working fine but since the kit came with one I figured why not do an overhaul and replace everything.
@@DIYToona I was in the same boat. Only the plastic gear that meshes with the worm gear was chewed up in my case, but figured might as well replace the worm gear too since it came with the kit!
Thank you! Best video on the subject hands-down. Perfect amount of detail with good camera angles. The pro tips on wiring connections and especially the roll of tape helped a lot. Cheers!
If there is too much tension in the chain, the train rate sensor will assume there is an obstruction and go back. Try gradually loosening the trolly chain seen at about 00:01:16 and see if that helps.
I just did this and have one tip. When putting the sprocket assembly on (the one that lowers from from the top and has the sprocket and "greased gear" on it), be sure to line up the notches for the sprocket cover correctly (the rectangular holes). If you don't, you can't put the sprocket cover on and you'll have to remove the three screws, rotate the plate, and re-install the screws. I discovered this after getting the chain back on and tensioned. Also, when you have the chain off the sprocket, check for any sag in the track. If it is sagging, this is a good time to loosen the track connection screws slightly, push the track back up, then tighten the screws (while holding the track up). A sag can cause chain to be incorrectly tensioned. It should be about 1/2 inch from the "T" at the midpoint.
By far the best video I have seen on the subject; thank you! I didn't have to put it on fast forward to keep from falling asleep, and you covered everything important.
Most complete video I've seen on a full rebuild of these extremely common garage door openers. Most don't bother with the bushings that come in "the kit". Well done. You needed to complete it though; Post adjustments are almost always necessary especially when the chain is reinstalled in a hap hazard manner.
Thanks for the video - great work - big help. Following these directions left too much play in the motor shaft as I attached the lock nut too close to the end - likely my error as the video shows the correct length. This was an easy adjustment after I had fully assembled but passing along for others to make sure the end of the motor shaft has enough length to fit the rpm attachment sensor and not allow too much play in the motor shaft (as the video shows).
Nice video and presentation. Do go right ahead and order the transmission kit (worm-wheel assembly included worm-gear for less than 20 buck). I learn a lesson saving a few bucks just order the worm-wheel, ending in a machinist project. Because the factory mix metric and SAE on pins or drill bit on the drive shaft in my opener, leaving the gear pin stuck to the drive shaft, too tight to remove by tapping it with hammer and punch. It was a fight to remove them. I had to machine a special drive pin and receptacle socket to go with my machine press and force it out. (After thought : may as well to core out the pin with an under size drill bit first, then punch it out). With the gear kit set we can avoid a fight.
Yunfeng LU Thank you for the kind words. I expect no comments just mean I didn’t miss anything. I’m not out for views, likes, or subscribed. I make these videos to help others.
@@DIYToona UA-cam “how to Repair and install” videos are by far the most valuable resources that the Chanel produces. because of videos like yours, I can learn step by step on how to fix an appliance I’d never be able to figure out on my own. Again thanks!
Hello, with your video I was able to replace a damage Gear BUT...after the installed and tried it out that a problem surfaced. I press the wall mounted switch to raise the door and it traveled only a couple of feet down and stopped and in a few seconds returned the garage door up position, Trying, it again gave me the same result. Help!
@@Manidahoan Try disengaging the door from the chain with the release cord and running it. If the chain completes the full cycle, then the problem is with the door on the track (crooked rails or uneven heights). If the chain still moves a few feet and returns, the problem is with the chain (usually too much tension)
If I’m imagining your setup correct, the chain runs on a track from the opener unit to near where your garage door is. I suspect there is something binding the chain within the track. Could be a tool or if you “locked” your garage door and it can’t move the chain won’t be able to pull the guide arm that attached to the top most panel.
What do you do if you replace the sprocket assembly with a new one and now the big white gear and the big worm gear are so tight that the motor can't spin?
Yes, its pinned in. top and bottom. I tried to remove that with pliers and no dice. Figured maybe I could reuse my old gear since it was hardly worn. (the metal collar that keeps the sockets in place broke apart on mine) @na
Since your drive gear came pre-installed, there’s a chance it’s not a match for your worm gear. If the assembly is made like OEM, you could punch out the two roll pins holding it in place and reuse the one that was on your assembly. At lease that would rule out gear size mismatch.
Oh I meant to follow up 2 weeks ago. I punched out the pins and swapped the drive gear. It fit the same, but the motor turned it perfectly. So I'm guessing the new drive gear was cut for a tight fit (which was too tight). Worked great, adjusted the chain drive, then I tinkered with the side controls and viola... it works great.
Yeah, you left something out. In order for the plastic cover over the chain gear to fit, the two rectangular holes in the metal top cover (with the three screws) must be aligned with the track, forward and back. Looks like yours isn't aligned either. Going to see if silicone caulk will at least hold it there to keep dust/dirt off it.
If you’re only replacing the primary drive gear and NOT the worm gear then No. Generally both those gears wear evenly and together. So if there is a need to replace one, the other often needs replacing too. But that’s up to you.
@DIY Toona thanks, ironically the worm gear is fine. There is barely any wear, but I'll see, I might just replace it all. The kit was only like $16 for the entire assembly off amazon.
Has anyone done this, swapped both gears, and then had a loud rattle coming from the gears? When the door is raising, these gears rattle like crazy. I tightened all the mounting screws and confirmed everything is in the correct order.
Loud rattling? No, can’t say I’ve heard that after a replacement. Try taking the outer cover off again and hanging the rear plate. Then observe what’s going on inside. Maybe that will give some clue as to what’s knocking around.
I've been through several of these videos in "how to replace the gears" on your craftsman garage door opener. This one is the absolute best. Short simple. Wish I had found it first.
Same here.
@@gunmetlx7917 And here!
Almost called a Garage door tech! TYVM! This is a GREAT Vid! A side note Good you replaced ALL GEARS! I just saw another vid and he did not replace the main gear from motor! Why do all that work, and go back in to replace it, if it breaks. It's in the kit for a reason. That gear he did not replace was just as old as the one that stripped. Plastic, hardened or not will break down in time. TY AGAIN!
Add another person to the list of people you’ve helped save money! Thank You graciously. Your video was well organized with clear audio, simple easy to follow directions, and excellent video.
Thank you for the kind words! Helping others out is why I make my videos (although I haven’t had time to make another in quite a while)
This video was a tremendous help to me recently! I found several decent videos for changing the vertical gear and sprocket but this is the only one I found for also changing the worm gear! Excellent instructions; thank you very much!!
Jesse Olson Thank you! To be honest the worm gear was working fine but since the kit came with one I figured why not do an overhaul and replace everything.
@@DIYToona I was in the same boat. Only the plastic gear that meshes with the worm gear was chewed up in my case, but figured might as well replace the worm gear too since it came with the kit!
Thank you! Best video on the subject hands-down. Perfect amount of detail with good camera angles. The pro tips on wiring connections and especially the roll of tape helped a lot. Cheers!
Put this all together. Now the door will only go down a foot and then goes back up. Great video by the way!
If there is too much tension in the chain, the train rate sensor will assume there is an obstruction and go back. Try gradually loosening the trolly chain seen at about 00:01:16 and see if that helps.
Same issue
I just did this and have one tip. When putting the sprocket assembly on (the one that lowers from from the top and has the sprocket and "greased gear" on it), be sure to line up the notches for the sprocket cover correctly (the rectangular holes). If you don't, you can't put the sprocket cover on and you'll have to remove the three screws, rotate the plate, and re-install the screws. I discovered this after getting the chain back on and tensioned.
Also, when you have the chain off the sprocket, check for any sag in the track. If it is sagging, this is a good time to loosen the track connection screws slightly, push the track back up, then tighten the screws (while holding the track up). A sag can cause chain to be incorrectly tensioned. It should be about 1/2 inch from the "T" at the midpoint.
Great video, showed everything properly.
My son helped me replace my garage door opener gear today (saved me several dollar$). We appreciate & thank you for your how to video. :)
I'm glad to hear the video helped y'all out.
By far the best video I have seen on the subject; thank you! I didn't have to put it on fast forward to keep from falling asleep, and you covered everything important.
Most complete video I've seen on a full rebuild of these extremely common garage door openers. Most don't bother with the bushings that come in "the kit". Well done. You needed to complete it though; Post adjustments are almost always necessary especially when the chain is reinstalled in a hap hazard manner.
Thanks so much. Very helpful. Got my gears out no problem. Saved me buying another unit.
This video is an absolute life saver. Great instructions and videography
Thanks for the video - great work - big help. Following these directions left too much play in the motor shaft as I attached the lock nut too close to the end - likely my error as the video shows the correct length. This was an easy adjustment after I had fully assembled but passing along for others to make sure the end of the motor shaft has enough length to fit the rpm attachment sensor and not allow too much play in the motor shaft (as the video shows).
I found that out the hard way too, which is why I have the roll of tape “pro tip” lol
Nice video and presentation.
Do go right ahead and order the transmission kit (worm-wheel assembly included worm-gear for less than 20 buck). I learn a lesson saving a few bucks just order the worm-wheel, ending in a machinist project.
Because the factory mix metric and SAE on pins or drill bit on the drive shaft in my opener, leaving the gear pin stuck to the drive shaft, too tight to remove by tapping it with hammer and punch. It was a fight to remove them. I had to machine a special drive pin and receptacle socket to go with my machine press and force it out. (After thought : may as well to core out the pin with an under size drill bit first, then punch it out).
With the gear kit set we can avoid a fight.
Thanks for the video. It certainly did help me out today.
LJ Hudson I really appreciate it. If I can help just one person, all the time making the video was worth it.
the best video for the job, wondering why there is only 11 up and only one comment after thousands of viewing, are we too busy or too lazy?
Yunfeng LU Thank you for the kind words. I expect no comments just mean I didn’t miss anything. I’m not out for views, likes, or subscribed. I make these videos to help others.
That is a major pain in the ass job.. great video though... that’s the best one I’ve seen.
It is kind of a pain. Thanks! The reason I made a video in the first place is because I couldn’t find any good ones.
@@DIYToona UA-cam “how to Repair and install” videos are by far the most valuable resources that the Chanel produces. because of videos like yours, I can learn step by step on how to fix an appliance I’d never be able to figure out on my own. Again thanks!
Damn good video. Thank ya’ll
Hello, with your video I was able to replace a damage Gear BUT...after the installed and tried it out that a problem surfaced. I press the wall mounted switch to raise the door and it traveled only a couple of feet down and stopped and in a few seconds returned the garage door up position, Trying, it again gave me the same result. Help!
@@Manidahoan Try disengaging the door from the chain with the release cord and running it. If the chain completes the full cycle, then the problem is with the door on the track (crooked rails or uneven heights). If the chain still moves a few feet and returns, the problem is with the chain (usually too much tension)
@@DIYToona Thank You so much, I will try it and see what happens. Thanks Again.
Super helpful video. I'm trying to replace the main drive gear, but having a heck of a time punching the roll pin out. Any suggestions?
I had to buy an actual punch set to do it. I tried with a few screwdrivers with no luck.
Hi there. I installed the new sprocket gear kit, but when I click the garage door button, one side of the chain gets super tight and the motor stops.
If I’m imagining your setup correct, the chain runs on a track from the opener unit to near where your garage door is. I suspect there is something binding the chain within the track. Could be a tool or if you “locked” your garage door and it can’t move the chain won’t be able to pull the guide arm that attached to the top most panel.
What do you do if you replace the sprocket assembly with a new one and now the big white gear and the big worm gear are so tight that the motor can't spin?
Did your sprocket assembly come with the large white gear (drive gear) already attached?
Yes, its pinned in. top and bottom. I tried to remove that with pliers and no dice. Figured maybe I could reuse my old gear since it was hardly worn. (the metal collar that keeps the sockets in place broke apart on mine)
@na
Since your drive gear came pre-installed, there’s a chance it’s not a match for your worm gear. If the assembly is made like OEM, you could punch out the two roll pins holding it in place and reuse the one that was on your assembly. At lease that would rule out gear size mismatch.
Thank you, I'll take a trip to the hardware store for a proper punch and post again if the old gear does the trick. Thank you!@@DIYToona
Oh I meant to follow up 2 weeks ago. I punched out the pins and swapped the drive gear. It fit the same, but the motor turned it perfectly. So I'm guessing the new drive gear was cut for a tight fit (which was too tight). Worked great, adjusted the chain drive, then I tinkered with the side controls and viola... it works great.
Yeah, you left something out. In order for the plastic cover over the chain gear to fit, the two rectangular holes in the metal top cover (with the three screws) must be aligned with the track, forward and back. Looks like yours isn't aligned either. Going to see if silicone caulk will at least hold it there to keep dust/dirt off it.
Do I have to remove the motor if I'm only replacing the gear?
If you’re only replacing the primary drive gear and NOT the worm gear then No. Generally both those gears wear evenly and together. So if there is a need to replace one, the other often needs replacing too. But that’s up to you.
@DIY Toona thanks, ironically the worm gear is fine. There is barely any wear, but I'll see, I might just replace it all. The kit was only like $16 for the entire assembly off amazon.
Has anyone done this, swapped both gears, and then had a loud rattle coming from the gears? When the door is raising, these gears rattle like crazy. I tightened all the mounting screws and confirmed everything is in the correct order.
Loud rattling? No, can’t say I’ve heard that after a replacement. Try taking the outer cover off again and hanging the rear plate. Then observe what’s going on inside. Maybe that will give some clue as to what’s knocking around.
You don't need to take all that stuff off in order to just replace the gear it just slipped right in. Go check out another video.
Which one? The gear & sprocket assembly, or the worm gear?
Seems like to much work .?good video.