Thank you for this video, Scott. I bought the grey version shortly after it came out in the late 1980s/early 1990s. Was using it just today to cut some tenons out of a piece of 2x4 for a table I'm making. Thick stock like that really should be cut on a band saw but I don't have one so the old scroll saw has had to serve in that capacity instead. It's been a real trooper for me over the years. Several notes come to mind, if I may: 1. As I live overseas, getting Shopsmith replacement blades is difficult, but I found that regular coping saw blades will work if you knock out the tiny pins on each end and shorten the blade as needed to fit the saw. 2. I screwed the little aluminum blade mounting block on the back right side of the base housing to keep from losing it. Similarly, the Allen key for changing blades fits in the screw head directly behind the table for storage. 3. The counterweight balance is important. I used my saw for years without realizing it was out of balance until I did some lube maintenance and found that the counterweights can be shifted to make it run smoother. Turned out to be an easy fix. 4. The air pump stopped working long ago and the hard aluminum tubing can't be bent easily to aim the airflow. The one on your 20 inch unit looks more effective, so I'm thinking I'll fix the pump, shorten the aluminum tube and add a piece of aquarium air hose to it to be able to aim the airflow more effectively. 5. Finally, I made the mistake one day of forgetting to release the tension of the blade after use and the next time I used it I found that the tension knob wouldn't "click" like it did before. It still works, but I must use my musical skills to adjust the tension. Is there a way to fix that problem? Thanks! Bruce
Hey Bruce. Yes, you are spot-on with all of those observations. There is a change that the “click” can be restored. Remove the top knock with the appropriate Allen wrench and hopefully you’ll find that the little plastic ball is loose under it. That ball gets pressed into a recess on top of a spring, which hopefully is also there. I suggest downloading a manual with an exploded view of the part breakdown. Scott
I paid something like $26 bucks for my Shopsmith Mark 5 mounted scroll saw. I was a local pick up on Ebay and the seller was in Pittsburg Pa. I drove 6 hours one way to pick it up. It was in near new condition with the blade blocks missing. In two weeks, I had it up and running and it's been my favorite tool ever since. I tend to use it more than my other Shopsmith configurations. I hope that they bring it back to their tool line up. My only gripe is the weight and if I ever got too weak to pick it up I would build a hoist contraption and roll the Shopsmith under it and lower it down. I also added a Shopsmith flex lamp with their magnifier upgrade to my scroll saw, it works great to reduce eye fatigue and increase accuracy during long projects. I have found that using the saw is a great form of stress therapy. I cut everything from wood to soft metals. It does a fantastic job cutting acrylic plastic. It's like I've always said, when you stand in front of a Shopsmith your only limitation is your imagination.
I agree. There was a plan to match that color on the Mark V but for some reason it was abandoned. I posted a picture on my blog a couple years back of the Mark V with that color scheme and it did looked pretty sharp.
I have one of the older grey SS scroll saws, that I haven't got set up yet. Several years ago when we did reno's on our rental suite, I used the A34 jigsaw on my 10ER for coping the inside corners on the new base boards. Do the 45 cut on my chops saw and, with the table tilted a bit, cut the cope on the jigsaw.
Sadly, I have that saw as well. (It came with the 520 I bought at an estate sale.) I hope Scott gives particular attention to "Do not start without adding oil!" requirement, and fixes.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. I have this thing but haven't used it much. However I want to learn how to set it up and maintain it, as well as how to use the different types of blades. Mine has this blade that sticks up and goes up and down like a handheld jigsaw, and I second Sean's comments below about the oiling issue.
About ten years ago I was out bid on eBay for at least three of these. I then found an rbi hawk nearby on Craigslist. I am now happy with scrolling and don’t have to move a 65 pound specialty tool on and off my Shopsmith. The Shopsmith scroll saw is at the top end of the market but moving it around gets more difficult with each year. I like the blade changing mechanism on the Shopsmith. It looks to be very simple to use.
Hey Philip. I've always liked the Hawk but for some reason have never owned one. Yes, this version of the blade mounting works very well, but it was a long journey to get to this iteration. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings A couple of years ago I bought a Shopsmith Scroll saw that was missing the blade lock assembly that you were talking about. It was on Ebay in Pittsburgh and sold as a local pick up only during a big football weekend and nobody bid on it. I got it for $26 dollars plus the cost of gas for a trip that was 6 hours each way. I think my total cost was $60 bucks, and then $30 dollars worth of parts from Shopsmith. It was the new version of the scroll saw in perfect shape for an unbeatable deal. I got lucky several times when I was putting it all together.
Thanks for the video Scott. I own a jig saw so look forward to your discussion of that product. I don't have manuals for my old equipment so your my hero. Thanks again !
Frank, there are quite a number of scans of manuals available on the Vintage Machinery site. Check these out: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=338&tab=3 And there's more if you search "Shopsmith" and explore the different manufacturers of the line, including Magna American, Yuba, etc. Scott
That is a lovely Scroll Saw, especially the table. I picked up the Harbor Freight Scroll Saw in February before I was given an entire Mark V and Power Station with Strip Sander and 6 inch belt sander. Had I known I might have waited and definitely will keep my eye out for it plus the Jointer and the Planer. The Harbor Freight saw actually works fine, but has a very small pressed steel table. I picked it up on sale for $64 just prior to it jumping to $109. Aside from two bearings that I replaced from having cut 1/8 inch aluminum it did me well, but I do love the Shopsmith unit's table. I do have an old 12 inch Sears band saw, but if I stumble on a Shopsmith or grab the energy to fabricate a Mathais Wandel clone I may retire it. You really don't know how useful they are to you get one which is what Tim Hunkin says about a lathe too. Actually, I'll have to rewatch this and the strip sander video because they were in the queue of videos I listened to while mowing the 6 acres of grass that got out of hand because of rain every day since just prior to the 4th.
Which of Matthias' saws will you make? The latest is a monster! Yes, we also had a bunch of rain and mowing over the weekend felt like harvesting hay. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Well, I am not sure which saw size I would give a shot at. The reason I am interested is I retired to the Catskill mountains and have hundreds of acres of fields and woods to wander in. Often I see storm damaged trees that were snapped clean off but still upright. I would love to use a hefty bandsaw on tracks and a movable sled to harvest some of these trees into hardwood lumber. Having seen Mathais pull it off, with issues, I thought if I was not as ambitious by not selecting as large a log that I could perhaps create some lumber. On the otherhand, I am soon to be 66 and I have lost the get up and go I once head, so the concept may not actually leave the runway. Honestly, I have enough projects without a huge project to tie up my time and I should definitely finish them first where the one that really interests me is a large mechanical clock primarily built out of wood which was, unless extremely wealthy, what most people had in the early to mid 1800s.
My saw is about 23 years old. It is gray with a solid metal cap on top of the blade assembly. The upgrade kit has a clear plastic cap. The package label says "Quick clamp upgrade". @@MyGrowthRings
Thanks for this one Scott. I've got the freestanding one. My current dilemma is how to change the drive belt on that unit. I have yet to figure it out and haven't actually gotten to use it yet. 😟
I have a free standing saw. I seen that you can add wheel or caster like the shop smith. What I did knew is the caster the same size or do you have to order different caster for the next free standing saw.
The caster set that Shopsmith made for the freestanding scroll saw is the same set used for the SPT stand, but additionally it requires a special bracket. I've seen photos of shop-made brackets, so I would encourage you to do a little Googling if you'd like to fabricate your own. As for the wheels on those casters, you can swap them our for these if you are looking for a replacement: amzn.to/3hzCcm1
Years ago a family member sold me an Excalibur 22”. Not really crazy about it. Looks like it is time to upgrade to a Scroll for my Mark V. I got about a 1,000 various blades and other tools with it.
I played with a couple Excalibur saws that Shopsmith bought for testing and comparing, and the smaller version ran substantially smoother. We love our DeWalt, which was designed after the 20" Excalibur. 1000 blades sounds like a good start! Scott
i like the shopsmith in the fact the table tilts left and right,,,for inlay work,,,my dewalt saw only tilts one way,,,but i use both saws for different purposes,,
@@MyGrowthRings oops sorry Scott,meant to type delta,,which is an entry level single speed saw,,since aquiring my shopsmith,which came with the scroll saw,,i use both dewalt and shopsmith now,,
@@jimmyFX I’ve owned a couple Delta scroll saws and the 16” Delta with the round table is excellent, but the table only tilts left. Delta made a 20” version of this same design and the increase in size really amplified the vibration, making it a very rough ride. I also owned a Delta C-arm scroll saw, that was OK.
I think they are different. In the 1940-50's jig saws weren't called upon to do the type of fretwork that is common today, and the Magna jigsaw was the state of the art when it was introduced.
Mine is that one you have there , didn’t know about that hole in table thanks. So your saying it’s better on legs,guess have to find or make a table fastened to the bottom,and use a motor and pully
I’m not sure that a Mark V-mount will run smoother on legs, but it probably will. The freestanding model has a very small but powerful motor that is mounted inside the base. Keeps it very well balanced. Scott
A much overlooked change in the Shopsmith scroll saw evolution is that the original (gray) versions were specified to have a 1 3/32" stroke. (Mine is actually 1 3/16") The "Teal" version reduced the stroke to 7/8", corresponding to the 3/4 to 7/8" blade stroke of most competitors.
Paul, you just taught me something. That's very good to know and truly a notable change. Have you used both and do you have an opinion of the difference? Scott
Scott, no, I have only used the older (grey) version, although mine has been tweaked and modified a bit. I stumbled across the change in my search to determine why my grey saw had more vibration than Teal saw owners reported. This change explained it. A longer stroke equals more momentum, thus more vibration at any given motor speed. An advantage of a longer stroke would be making better use of the blade as more teeth are used. A side effect of the different stroke lengths is that the grey is (should be) a more aggressive saw at the same motor speed as the teal.
Paul, you are absolutely right about optimizing the blade, but if the saw is a bucking bronco it would discourage using it long enough to dull a blade! I do recall a change that was made to the gears to a softer material that helped to reduce noise and some vibration, but I have a huge blind spot when it comes to this stroke change. It's always fun to learn something new! Scott
If I could easily swap cams I would just to compare, but that is a pricey endeavor. Yes, at the same motor speed the saw does indeed have much more vibration. However: Assume you are have a teal saw and have determined that 50% speed is appropriate for the cut (about 800 strokes per minute) and you are using a 12 tooth-per-inch blade. At a stroke of 7/8” that comes out to (800x12x0.875=) 8400 teeth per minute through the wood. So now we have the gray saw. The same work (8400 teeth per minute) is 8400/12/1.1 = 636 strokes per minute. So the correct speed setting for the gray saw is 75-80% lower than the correct setting for the teal - and the lower speed equals lower vibrations. Again, I really wish this is something I could A/B test.
Just watched this video . In you blade position I couldn’t tell if you said teeth go up or down when hooking it up. I know it’s been a while since this was showing but it would be nice to know. I have the teal one and like it.
The saw cuts on the down stroke, so you would want the teeth facing down, but many scroll saw blades have a few blades near the bottom that are facing up, in order to eliminate some tear out. On small blade, you really have to look closely to tell which way the teeth face. On some of them, I can only tell by running my finger along the edge.
Good video Scott! You answered my question right up front. What is the difference between a jigsaw and a scroll saw? I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks! I have the Mark V mounted scroll saw. Works well for me.
Scott can u do a video on how to replace o ring drive belt 5231139 for Shopsmith 20” scroll saw free standing unit. I have directions from Shopsmith but stuck on removing link bolt #55 from link assembly #54. Instructions does not explain what or how to block so u can remove the bolt. Of course assembly just turns with wrench and I do not want to break anything attempting to remove bolt. Thanks Mike
@@MyGrowthRings It dry rotted, crumbled into many pieces, so rejoining not an option. Have a replacement from Shopsmith, have an apt with Shopsmith tech guy on Tuesday, hopefully they will be able to help out. If all goes well I will do a video on how to replace and post.
@04:23 "… By the way, {MaxHeadroom stutter} I'm not wearing my earbuds…." Scott, I'm glad you threw that in. I admit to a prejudice against crApple and seeing those in your ears has been disquieting. While I don't groc, I get that you used them to enhance the audio of your vids, for which I am very appreciative.
Yeah, I wish I had a better solution. I have a coworker in California who I don't believe I've never seen without a Bluetooth dongle hanging from his ear and it always makes me wonder if he's expecting a call that is more important than the conversation we are having.
@@MyGrowthRings I used to work with someone like that everyone referred to him as robocop, but if you need anything tracked down using a phone he was the man.
Enjoyed the video. You always do a great job. I had the older grey model for many years and after a while upgraded the blade system. I was extremely happy with what I thought was a great saw at a very reasonable price. I moved on to individual tools and ended up giving all the Shopsmith tools to my daughter. As an aside, when I was working in a Shopsmith retail store before they closed, I sold a lot of the scroll saws because I was familiar with them. Many of the sales were to women because I could show them how safe it was and my pitch was it was like running a sewing machine. I have since become the owner of two 510's and most of the accessory add one. One being the old grey scroll saw with old blade system. I really don't need it as I have two Hegners. I have it listed on the sales site and if it doesn't sell I just keep it and upgrade the blade system. A scroller can't have too many scroll saws.
I'm back to this video after watching it a while back, my big new question: Why can't I get an entire Shopsmith in that beautiful Makita-ish teal color?
@@MyGrowthRings I think Shopsmith would sell more new Shopsmiths if they changed the color again. And made the SPTs in different colors. And I think for my input Shopsmith should send me a new 2023 Shopsmith Teal Limited edition.
It all depends on what I was hoping to use if for. If I wanted to do fine scroll work, there’s no chance I’d chose the jigsaw. But as you can see, the jigsaw has its charms, so I say why choose between them?
What a coincidence! Just yesterday I junked out an old Montgomery Ward Power Craft jigsaw. I’ve had it for 26 years & loathed it from day one. Tensioning the blade was a nightmare. It wore through backup / guides like a beaver in a forest of poplar saplings. They in-turn took all the set out of the teeth. And, with just a tiny bit too much feed pressure, that wonky spring would start slapping and break the blades. At first, I thought about putting it on Craigslist “Free to a good home”. But, then I decided... I shouldn’t curse someone else with a despicable tool! So, it is in the pile of old hand drills, circular saws and air compressor that I selfishly kept in the hopes that I’d get around to fixing... the scrap dealer will be its new owner on Friday! Now my quest begins... if I wanted to get a Shopsmith scrollsaw... what do I need to look for? Whether or not it’s freestanding or an attachment... are there any particulars like... Model #, feature, key identification cues, etc? Any advice would be appreciated.
I would be on the lookout for a 555685 model freestanding saw. It will be teal and will have the zinc base and table. It really was the beat SS ever made. Scott
I have a Model 518255 20" scroll saw. The motor shaft knob is broken. Shopsmith doesn't service this model anymore and I do not know what the proper name is for the shaft connection. The knob has a Y shaped protrusion that fits onto the shaft. What do you call this type of connection so I can look for a replacement knob? This part, the shaft the knob connects to, is not listed or shown in the IPB
Scott, Yesterday I was going through the June 1987 issue of Wood magazine. On page 26 I came across an ad from RBI. At that time they were selling a Scroll Saw which was made for use with a Shopsmith. Have you ever come across this machine? If so how does it compare with the teal Shopsmith Scroll Saw? As always, I enjoy and learn from all of your videos!
Yes, I mentioned that saw briefly on my blog, but I only have the opportunity to try it once. It did not saw as well as the last, teal-colored version of the Shopsmith scroll saw. It was better than the early gray models, though. www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts/shopsmith-single-purpose-tools-spt-s-/8-shopsmith-jig-saw-scrollsaw-information-history-review
Scott you mentioned moving the set screw (in the holding block) in or out to adjust blade toward center of block. Is eyeballing close enough? Also, do you always position back of blade against back of block to tighten. On those really tint blades, I have trouble with them popping loose. Thanks
Hey Ellis, Yes, your eye is going to get it close but you then can check the blade to table squareness and make the final adjustment to the table and then set the pointer. It's a one and done adjustment. Yes, I tend to put it all the way to the back, but you can also center them on the screw if you'd like. Scott
Scott, thanks again for an informative video. I have a gray saw that mounts on the Mark five and is upgraded to the new style blade holders. Haven’t spent much time on it yet, looks like a good time to pull it out. Is there any advantage of having the jigsaw also? The scroll saw seems to do everything the jigsaw can or am I missing something?
Hey James. Yes, there are a couple advantages to the jigsaw and I'll get into those when I shoot the video with it. Yes, I'm holding back some good stuff, so you might want to pick one up before the demand surges! Scott
Scott, love your videos. I just acquired an older model scroll saw with blade setting guide on the back sides of the table. Shopsmith offers an upgrade with blocks and cam system, 555708. Is it compatible with my older saw?
Great video! I just went out to the shop to see if mine had the square hole in it. 👎 Can you think of any reason why I shouldn’t cut a square hole as long as I miss the bracing. It’s a pain to have to walk to my vice every time I need to change blades. I push my saw to the limit, cutting 1 3/4 thick pallets into letters and numbers for grandkids to learn to spell with. By the way the hold down helps then. I also noticed it looks like you sped it up. How fast is it safe to run at? Do you recommend clamping 1/4” strips of cut down old belt sander into the blade holder to sand inside turns. Will the side pressure wear out the bearings?
Hey Dave. I don’t think I would cut a hole but instead perhaps cut a hole in a block of hardwood or even UHMW plastic and use that. You could even attach that to the edge of the table if you’d like. The max recommended speed setting is “O”, or 2800rpms. I never have used sandpaper in my saw, but I’ve seen it done. You’d be hard pressed to wear anything out and even if you do the parts can be replaced, so go to town! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I forgot to mention that it was the 520 headstock. Would that work? I recently bought a Pro Router tabletop from Shopsmith. If you remember, they came out 20 years ago. It was a router table designed to the work with the 520 tables with the aluminum extrusions. I wanted the ability to use the biggest router bits at normal router speeds but with Shopsmith's floating table system. I had to reinvent the hardware because they no longer sell it. What I've done is taken the tabletop and drilled new holes to match the shorter main table rails. The hardware uses offset cross dowel nuts or barrel nuts, the table spacer bushings on one side, and these special adjustable spaces that you can't buy anymore for the front rail. What I did to make the adjustable spacers was to use brake line nuts for 3/16" brake line and a standard nut. I filed down the brake line nut to shorten it slightly, then I drilled out the center hole and threaded it with a tap. When combined with the nut it creates an adjustable spacer just like the original hardware. I would love to see someone build one of these router tables from scratch out of raw MDMF board using the main table rails for the 520 and the 510. I've seen lots of variations but never a duplicate of the original design. The router fence was a bit more of a problem. I managed to buy an Incra Wonder Fence and most of the original Shopsmith parts from Incra. They still had a few available last year and it took 6 months to obtain everything thanks to the supply chain problems. The only thing that I couldn't get were those right angle brackets that featured nylon wheels on them that gripped the sides of the floating table rails. I made a set out of some aluminum angle and some basic hardware store parts. If I had to do this over, I would have bought a Rockler or similar router table fence and installed some T tracks in the Shopsmith router table instead of going the Incra route.
@@haujeancontactee If you look at most of those floor switches they’ll tell you not to use them on a motor over a certain amp rating. I suspect the Shopsmith is over that rating. Likewise, depending on the speed that the headstock is set you might not be able to turn it off and on without lowering the speed. I suggest calling Shopsmith with that question, but I wouldn’t get your hopes up. I’d love to see a picture or video of what you’ve made. Me email is ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
@@MyGrowthRings I'll email you in a couple of weeks. The Shopsmith is in storage in the shed waiting for me to clean out the basement and upgrade the power in the house so I can plug it in. I should have it out and set up by November 10th. I just learned a lot from your 3 scroll saw videos. I've got one in storage that hasn't been used by me yet. When I set my system up in November I've got two ideas to explore. One is a stationary circle cutter using the jig saw, and the second version uses the overhead router with a 1/2" spiral upcut bit. The pivot pin jig is a piece of wood that slides onto the main tubes and sandwiches between the floating tables. I'm going to use an old dull drill bit for the pivot pin. The pin will protrude just enough between the tables to keep a big piece from popping off. It should work good for cutting large tabletops.
Hey Scott, my 1984 scroll saw has a broken rear trunnion. I’ve ordered it twice from Shopsmith, but I keep getting the wrong part. It’s #87 in the scroll saw parts diagram. I believe this part is different based on the vintage or country of manufacture. I found a parts diagram on line (not on the Shopsmith site) for the saw with the correct part #87 in the drawing. Anyway, here I have my near new 1984 Shopsmith Scroll Saw, unusable. Any ideas for where I can find this part?
They did change that part about three times, so I’m not surprised. Make sure that the manual you have is the manual for the exact model saw you own then get them on the phone.
Hi Scott, I saw a scroll saw on ebay for a pretty good price, it/s a model 555220. Do you know if that was a fairly good model, would it be a good one to buy?
That’s a pretty early model, from 1991. I would pass unless it’s an amazing deal. Keep an eye out for a teal model if you can find one, because it will run smoother and have all the current features. Scott
I’m curious how you value the iterations of the scroll saw. I see available a blue (newest?) mark mounted scroll saw and a black (solid iron front with notches in the back) that is on a stand. Pro and con the two? Which would you prefer?
Jeffrey, the freestanding teal green Shopsmith scroll saw is my favorite. It's heavy, smooth running and powerful. From there I think the teal Mark V mounted version, mounted on a Mark V would be my next choice. I single out the Mark V because I don't like how much the Mark-mounted vibrates on a Power Station or Crafter's Station. NONE of Shopsmith's scroll saws have featured iron mart, so I'm not sure what you mean by that reference. Scott
Mark V mounted. I don’t think it has been used in a decade, but it seems in decent condition. I had no idea there were other versions, the overview was very helpful.
Hey George, "Best" is a tough call. I've used some spectacular blades but ultimately when you balance performance with price I find myself back at Olson for most jobs. These are my go-to blades: amzn.to/3ovQw0f Scott
RBI is still around. I have an older RBI scroll saw and an Excalibur EX-21. Hegner is still here too. Most scroll users don't use hold-downs. They are always getting in the way. I would not buy a Shopsmith mounted scroll saw. If I were to run across a newer free-standing version of the saw, I would probably buy it. However, they seem to be rare in my area. I don't know why anyone besides a tool collector would want the Shopsmith Jig Saw. I had one for a short time and practically gave it away to get it out of my shop.
For some reason I've never owned an RBI saw, but I have owned several versions from Delta, a Hegner, at least a dozen from Shopsmith and a DeWalt. It really is surprising to me how many I've owned considering I don't do a lot of scroll saw work, but my bride did. Not much anymore, though. As for the jigsaw, there's a couple applications where it really shines. More on that in a future vid. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I saw a small write-up on one of the newer Shopsmith scroll saws in "Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts" magazine. They were quite impressed with it. That article got me interested in picking up a used one. Your video answered a lot of questions I had about the Shopsmith scroll saw. Blade changes and how easy they do through cuts is a big deal and is why I have my EX-21. The Shopsmith scroll saw looks pretty good at blade changes. Since you have owned several scroll saws, perhaps you could make a video that compares the ease of blade changes between different saws. I have only owned three scroll saws. For the last few years, the scroll saw has been my primary tool for most projects. I use my Shopsmith bandsaw a lot as well.
@@RobertKeeney Our personal preference is the DeWalt DW788 scroll saw, but if a shop is built around Shopsmith tools, the Shopsmith scroll saw is a great choice as well. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I considered a DeWalt DW788 scroll saw and I am glad I didn't get it. If you use them a lot they wear out very fast. I know one person that cuts puzzles who wears one out about once a year cutting part-time. He likes the way they cut (aggressive) and keeps buying and rebuilding. The EX21 has great support through Seyco where they will talk you through troubleshooting on the phone. Unfortunately, all the new EX21s are made in China and have lots of problems. My RBI Hawk has only had one problem that was easy to fix. I had to replace the power switch I know of at least one person that uses them in a production environment and has never had to rebuild it. Hegner scroll saws seem to be pretty much the same they run for years without issue. If I were buying new today I would be torn between the Seyco, Pegas, and RBI.
Thankfully we haven't had any problems with it (knock on wood). That's unfortunate that they moved production overseas. Seems to be the way of the world.
Thank you for this video, Scott. I bought the grey version shortly after it came out in the late 1980s/early 1990s. Was using it just today to cut some tenons out of a piece of 2x4 for a table I'm making. Thick stock like that really should be cut on a band saw but I don't have one so the old scroll saw has had to serve in that capacity instead. It's been a real trooper for me over the years. Several notes come to mind, if I may:
1. As I live overseas, getting Shopsmith replacement blades is difficult, but I found that regular coping saw blades will work if you knock out the tiny pins on each end and shorten the blade as needed to fit the saw.
2. I screwed the little aluminum blade mounting block on the back right side of the base housing to keep from losing it. Similarly, the Allen key for changing blades fits in the screw head directly behind the table for storage.
3. The counterweight balance is important. I used my saw for years without realizing it was out of balance until I did some lube maintenance and found that the counterweights can be shifted to make it run smoother. Turned out to be an easy fix.
4. The air pump stopped working long ago and the hard aluminum tubing can't be bent easily to aim the airflow. The one on your 20 inch unit looks more effective, so I'm thinking I'll fix the pump, shorten the aluminum tube and add a piece of aquarium air hose to it to be able to aim the airflow more effectively.
5. Finally, I made the mistake one day of forgetting to release the tension of the blade after use and the next time I used it I found that the tension knob wouldn't "click" like it did before. It still works, but I must use my musical skills to adjust the tension. Is there a way to fix that problem?
Thanks! Bruce
Hey Bruce. Yes, you are spot-on with all of those observations. There is a change that the “click” can be restored. Remove the top knock with the appropriate Allen wrench and hopefully you’ll find that the little plastic ball is loose under it. That ball gets pressed into a recess on top of a spring, which hopefully is also there. I suggest downloading a manual with an exploded view of the part breakdown. Scott
I paid something like $26 bucks for my Shopsmith Mark 5 mounted scroll saw. I was a local pick up on Ebay and the seller was in Pittsburg Pa. I drove 6 hours one way to pick it up. It was in near new condition with the blade blocks missing. In two weeks, I had it up and running and it's been my favorite tool ever since. I tend to use it more than my other Shopsmith configurations. I hope that they bring it back to their tool line up. My only gripe is the weight and if I ever got too weak to pick it up I would build a hoist contraption and roll the Shopsmith under it and lower it down. I also added a Shopsmith flex lamp with their magnifier upgrade to my scroll saw, it works great to reduce eye fatigue and increase accuracy during long projects. I have found that using the saw is a great form of stress therapy. I cut everything from wood to soft metals. It does a fantastic job cutting acrylic plastic. It's like I've always said, when you stand in front of a Shopsmith your only limitation is your imagination.
Wow, that’s a tremendous price!
@@MyGrowthRings I couldn't even make eye contact with the seller when I met him in his driveway, that's how good the price was.
"But first, a little Foggy Mountain Breakdown" -- classic Steve Martin reference :). Thanks! Brock
I was just watching clips of him during lunch. Always a wild and crazy guy!
After all these years I still can't get over the COLOR change of the body! I always did like it, and still do.
I agree. There was a plan to match that color on the Mark V but for some reason it was abandoned. I posted a picture on my blog a couple years back of the Mark V with that color scheme and it did looked pretty sharp.
I have one of the older grey SS scroll saws, that I haven't got set up yet.
Several years ago when we did reno's on our rental suite, I used the A34 jigsaw on my 10ER for coping the inside corners on the new base boards. Do the 45 cut on my chops saw and, with the table tilted a bit, cut the cope on the jigsaw.
Perfect application.
I have the Magna style jigsaw and would be interested in a video on that as well. Always a great job Scott!
It’s coming.
Sadly, I have that saw as well. (It came with the 520 I bought at an estate sale.) I hope Scott gives particular attention to "Do not start without adding oil!" requirement, and fixes.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. I have this thing but haven't used it much. However I want to learn how to set it up and maintain it, as well as how to use the different types of blades. Mine has this blade that sticks up and goes up and down like a handheld jigsaw, and I second Sean's comments below about the oiling issue.
@@seanflanagan5674 You bet I will!
About ten years ago I was out bid on eBay for at least three of these. I then found an rbi hawk nearby on Craigslist. I am now happy with scrolling and don’t have to move a 65 pound specialty tool on and off my Shopsmith. The Shopsmith scroll saw is at the top end of the market but moving it around gets more difficult with each year. I like the blade changing mechanism on the Shopsmith. It looks to be very simple to use.
Hey Philip. I've always liked the Hawk but for some reason have never owned one. Yes, this version of the blade mounting works very well, but it was a long journey to get to this iteration. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings A couple of years ago I bought a Shopsmith Scroll saw that was missing the blade lock assembly that you were talking about. It was on Ebay in Pittsburgh and sold as a local pick up only during a big football weekend and nobody bid on it. I got it for $26 dollars plus the cost of gas for a trip that was 6 hours each way. I think my total cost was $60 bucks, and then $30 dollars worth of parts from Shopsmith. It was the new version of the scroll saw in perfect shape for an unbeatable deal. I got lucky several times when I was putting it all together.
Thanks for the video Scott. I own a jig saw so look forward to your discussion of that product. I don't have manuals for my old equipment so your my hero. Thanks again !
Frank, there are quite a number of scans of manuals available on the Vintage Machinery site. Check these out: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=338&tab=3 And there's more if you search "Shopsmith" and explore the different manufacturers of the line, including Magna American, Yuba, etc. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, Thanks so much. I have several accessories and need manuals for all of them.
That is a lovely Scroll Saw, especially the table.
I picked up the Harbor Freight Scroll Saw in February before I was given an entire Mark V and Power Station with Strip Sander and 6 inch belt sander. Had I known I might have waited and definitely will keep my eye out for it plus the Jointer and the Planer.
The Harbor Freight saw actually works fine, but has a very small pressed steel table. I picked it up on sale for $64 just prior to it jumping to $109. Aside from two bearings that I replaced from having cut 1/8 inch aluminum it did me well, but I do love the Shopsmith unit's table.
I do have an old 12 inch Sears band saw, but if I stumble on a Shopsmith or grab the energy to fabricate a Mathais Wandel clone I may retire it. You really don't know how useful they are to you get one which is what Tim Hunkin says about a lathe too.
Actually, I'll have to rewatch this and the strip sander video because they were in the queue of videos I listened to while mowing the 6 acres of grass that got out of hand because of rain every day since just prior to the 4th.
Which of Matthias' saws will you make? The latest is a monster! Yes, we also had a bunch of rain and mowing over the weekend felt like harvesting hay. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Well, I am not sure which saw size I would give a shot at. The reason I am interested is I retired to the Catskill mountains and have hundreds of acres of fields and woods to wander in.
Often I see storm damaged trees that were snapped clean off but still upright. I would love to use a hefty bandsaw on tracks and a movable sled to harvest some of these trees into hardwood lumber. Having seen Mathais pull it off, with issues, I thought if I was not as ambitious by not selecting as large a log that I could perhaps create some lumber.
On the otherhand, I am soon to be 66 and I have lost the get up and go I once head, so the concept may not actually leave the runway. Honestly, I have enough projects without a huge project to tie up my time and I should definitely finish them first where the one that really interests me is a large mechanical clock primarily built out of wood which was, unless extremely wealthy, what most people had in the early to mid 1800s.
Love my scroll saw, only thing I don't like is changing the blades...
Which style of blade mounts do you have? Shopsmith offers an upgrade to the version I'm using in the video, which isn't bad. Scott
Have you produced a video that shows how to install the scroll saw upgrade kit? These videos are very helpful!!
Which upgrade kit?
My saw is about 23 years old. It is gray with a solid metal cap on top of the blade assembly. The upgrade kit has a clear plastic cap. The package label says "Quick clamp upgrade". @@MyGrowthRings
@@user-hm4kx4cl5d Got ya. Yes, those are both nice upgrades.
Did you make a video that shows how to install the upgrades? If so, I didn't see it in your list.@@MyGrowthRings
Thanks for this one Scott.
I've got the freestanding one. My current dilemma is how to change the drive belt on that unit. I have yet to figure it out and haven't actually gotten to use it yet. 😟
It’s been along time since I’ve tackled that task but there’s quite a bit of this assembly required. Just take your time and you’ll get it.
I have a free standing saw. I seen that you can add wheel or caster like the shop smith. What I did knew is the caster the same size or do you have to order different caster for the next free standing saw.
The caster set that Shopsmith made for the freestanding scroll saw is the same set used for the SPT stand, but additionally it requires a special bracket. I've seen photos of shop-made brackets, so I would encourage you to do a little Googling if you'd like to fabricate your own. As for the wheels on those casters, you can swap them our for these if you are looking for a replacement: amzn.to/3hzCcm1
Years ago a family member sold me an Excalibur 22”. Not really crazy about it. Looks like it is time to upgrade to a Scroll for my Mark V. I got about a 1,000 various blades and other tools with it.
I played with a couple Excalibur saws that Shopsmith bought for testing and comparing, and the smaller version ran substantially smoother. We love our DeWalt, which was designed after the 20" Excalibur. 1000 blades sounds like a good start! Scott
i like the shopsmith in the fact the table tilts left and right,,,for inlay work,,,my dewalt saw only tilts one way,,,but i use both saws for different purposes,,
You must have a different DeWalt than we have. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings oops sorry Scott,meant to type delta,,which is an entry level single speed saw,,since aquiring my shopsmith,which came with the scroll saw,,i use both dewalt and shopsmith now,,
@@jimmyFX I’ve owned a couple Delta scroll saws and the 16” Delta with the round table is excellent, but the table only tilts left. Delta made a 20” version of this same design and the increase in size really amplified the vibration, making it a very rough ride. I also owned a Delta C-arm scroll saw, that was OK.
@@MyGrowthRings There is also a Delta model that is practically identical to the DeWalt but cheaper. They have the same parent company.
Thanks Scott! Find those drill bits!
Will do.
Is this an interesting video!
I’m always pleased with your knowledge and how you import it to us.👍👍
Thanks, John.
Oops - This is an interesting video!
I don't have one of these I have the Magna but I get the feeling that this model is much better designed
I think they are different. In the 1940-50's jig saws weren't called upon to do the type of fretwork that is common today, and the Magna jigsaw was the state of the art when it was introduced.
Thanks, Scott! I learned quite a bit from this.
Glad to hear it.
Mine is that one you have there , didn’t know about that hole in table thanks. So your saying it’s better on legs,guess have to find or make a table fastened to the bottom,and use a motor and pully
I’m not sure that a Mark V-mount will run smoother on legs, but it probably will. The freestanding model has a very small but powerful motor that is mounted inside the base. Keeps it very well balanced. Scott
Excellent, Scott, thank you!
Very welcome!
I just purchased the scroll saw that's on your video do you have a video on how to replace the drive belt thanks jim
I don’t and I don’t recall seeing one. There is an instruction sheet available from Shopsmith hat would help, but I don’t have it. Contact SS. Scott
A much overlooked change in the Shopsmith scroll saw evolution is that the original (gray) versions were specified to have a 1 3/32" stroke. (Mine is actually 1 3/16") The "Teal" version reduced the stroke to 7/8", corresponding to the 3/4 to 7/8" blade stroke of most competitors.
Paul, you just taught me something. That's very good to know and truly a notable change. Have you used both and do you have an opinion of the difference? Scott
Scott, no, I have only used the older (grey) version, although mine has been tweaked and modified a bit. I stumbled across the change in my search to determine why my grey saw had more vibration than Teal saw owners reported. This change explained it. A longer stroke equals more momentum, thus more vibration at any given motor speed.
An advantage of a longer stroke would be making better use of the blade as more teeth are used.
A side effect of the different stroke lengths is that the grey is (should be) a more aggressive saw at the same motor speed as the teal.
Paul, you are absolutely right about optimizing the blade, but if the saw is a bucking bronco it would discourage using it long enough to dull a blade! I do recall a change that was made to the gears to a softer material that helped to reduce noise and some vibration, but I have a huge blind spot when it comes to this stroke change. It's always fun to learn something new! Scott
If I could easily swap cams I would just to compare, but that is a pricey endeavor.
Yes, at the same motor speed the saw does indeed have much more vibration.
However: Assume you are have a teal saw and have determined that 50% speed is appropriate for the cut (about 800 strokes per minute) and you are using a 12 tooth-per-inch blade. At a stroke of 7/8” that comes out to (800x12x0.875=) 8400 teeth per minute through the wood.
So now we have the gray saw. The same work (8400 teeth per minute) is 8400/12/1.1 = 636 strokes per minute.
So the correct speed setting for the gray saw is 75-80% lower than the correct setting for the teal - and the lower speed equals lower vibrations.
Again, I really wish this is something I could A/B test.
Correction: 75 to 85% of the speed, NOT 75 to 85% lower.
Great information, Scott.
Thanks, Brad. Scott
Just watched this video . In you blade position I couldn’t tell if you said teeth go up or down when hooking it up. I know it’s been a while since this was showing but it would be nice to know. I have the teal one and like it.
The saw cuts on the down stroke, so you would want the teeth facing down, but many scroll saw blades have a few blades near the bottom that are facing up, in order to eliminate some tear out. On small blade, you really have to look closely to tell which way the teeth face. On some of them, I can only tell by running my finger along the edge.
Good video Scott! You answered my question right up front. What is the difference between a jigsaw and a scroll saw? I always learn something new from your videos. Thanks! I have the Mark V mounted scroll saw. Works well for me.
My work is done here. :-)
I always wondered that too.
Scott can u do a video on how to replace o ring drive belt 5231139 for Shopsmith 20” scroll saw free standing unit. I have directions from Shopsmith but stuck on removing link bolt #55 from link assembly #54. Instructions does not explain what or how to block so u can remove the bolt. Of course assembly just turns with wrench and I do not want to break anything attempting to remove bolt. Thanks Mike
I hadn’t planned on it, but I’ll see. Did your belt break? Have you tried to save the belt by rejoining it at the break? (Assuming that it broke)
@@MyGrowthRings It dry rotted, crumbled into many pieces, so rejoining not an option. Have a replacement from Shopsmith, have an apt with Shopsmith tech guy on Tuesday, hopefully they will be able to help out. If all goes well I will do a video on how to replace and post.
@04:23 "… By the way, {MaxHeadroom stutter} I'm not wearing my earbuds…."
Scott, I'm glad you threw that in. I admit to a prejudice against crApple and seeing those in your ears has been disquieting. While I don't groc, I get that you used them to enhance the audio of your vids, for which I am very appreciative.
Yeah, I wish I had a better solution. I have a coworker in California who I don't believe I've never seen without a Bluetooth dongle hanging from his ear and it always makes me wonder if he's expecting a call that is more important than the conversation we are having.
@@MyGrowthRings I used to work with someone like that everyone referred to him as robocop, but if you need anything tracked down using a phone he was the man.
@@RobertKeeney Well, that would be me too. Long before many people were using Google my friends called me “The Googler”.
One of these days I will get the never blocks... I have fought and fought them to the point I don't use the scroll saw anymore...
Aaron, yes, it's an easy retro and you'll begin to really enjoy the saw. Scott
Hey Scott, doesn't the thickness of the blade also determine if you can make a 90 degree turn that sharp without a spiral blade?
To some degree yes but I can make a similar 90° corner with a much wider blade that I am demoing here.
Enjoyed the video. You always do a great job. I had the older grey model for many years and after a while upgraded the blade system. I was extremely happy with what I thought was a great saw at a very reasonable price. I moved on to individual tools and ended up giving all the Shopsmith tools to my daughter. As an aside, when I was working in a Shopsmith retail store before they closed, I sold a lot of the scroll saws because I was familiar with them. Many of the sales were to women because I could show them how safe it was and my pitch was it was like running a sewing machine. I have since become the owner of two 510's and most of the accessory add one. One being the old grey scroll saw with old blade system. I really don't need it as I have two Hegners. I have it listed on the sales site and if it doesn't sell I just keep it and upgrade the blade system. A scroller can't have too many scroll saws.
Awesome as usual!
Thanks!
I'm back to this video after watching it a while back, my big new question: Why can't I get an entire Shopsmith in that beautiful Makita-ish teal color?
That's actually a very good question. I don't know.
@@MyGrowthRings I think Shopsmith would sell more new Shopsmiths if they changed the color again. And made the SPTs in different colors. And I think for my input Shopsmith should send me a new 2023 Shopsmith Teal Limited edition.
@@mikeking7470 That's probably correct. Battleship grey is pretty played-out.
Scroll saw versus jig saw. If you could only have one, would you pick the teal scroll saw over the SS jigsaw?
It all depends on what I was hoping to use if for. If I wanted to do fine scroll work, there’s no chance I’d chose the jigsaw. But as you can see, the jigsaw has its charms, so I say why choose between them?
What a coincidence! Just yesterday I junked out an old Montgomery Ward Power Craft jigsaw. I’ve had it for 26 years & loathed it from day one. Tensioning the blade was a nightmare. It wore through backup / guides like a beaver in a forest of poplar saplings. They in-turn took all the set out of the teeth. And, with just a tiny bit too much feed pressure, that wonky spring would start slapping and break the blades.
At first, I thought about putting it on Craigslist “Free to a good home”. But, then I decided... I shouldn’t curse someone else with a despicable tool! So, it is in the pile of old hand drills, circular saws and air compressor that I selfishly kept in the hopes that I’d get around to fixing... the scrap dealer will be its new owner on Friday!
Now my quest begins... if I wanted to get a Shopsmith scrollsaw... what do I need to look for? Whether or not it’s freestanding or an attachment... are there any particulars like... Model #, feature, key identification cues, etc?
Any advice would be appreciated.
I would be on the lookout for a 555685 model freestanding saw. It will be teal and will have the zinc base and table. It really was the beat SS ever made. Scott
My Scroll saw is the early 80's style, with the hold down and blade guide pin. If you want pics, shoot me a message....
Sure. You can email me at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail.com
I have a Model 518255 20" scroll saw. The motor shaft knob is broken. Shopsmith doesn't service this model anymore and I do not know what the proper name is for the shaft connection. The knob has a Y shaped protrusion that fits onto the shaft. What do you call this type of connection so I can look for a replacement knob? This part, the shaft the knob connects to, is not listed or shown in the IPB
Scott, Yesterday I was going through the June 1987 issue of Wood magazine. On page 26 I came across an ad from RBI. At that time they were selling a Scroll Saw which was made for use with a Shopsmith. Have you ever come across this machine? If so how does it compare with the teal Shopsmith Scroll Saw? As always, I enjoy and learn from all of your videos!
Yes, I mentioned that saw briefly on my blog, but I only have the opportunity to try it once. It did not saw as well as the last, teal-colored version of the Shopsmith scroll saw. It was better than the early gray models, though. www.tool-hunter.com/shopsmith-posts/shopsmith-single-purpose-tools-spt-s-/8-shopsmith-jig-saw-scrollsaw-information-history-review
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the information and the link to your blog. Very interesting!
Scott you mentioned moving the set screw (in the holding block) in or out to adjust blade toward center of block. Is eyeballing close enough? Also, do you always position back of blade against back of block to tighten. On those really tint blades, I have trouble with them popping loose. Thanks
Hey Ellis, Yes, your eye is going to get it close but you then can check the blade to table squareness and make the final adjustment to the table and then set the pointer. It's a one and done adjustment. Yes, I tend to put it all the way to the back, but you can also center them on the screw if you'd like. Scott
Scott, thanks again for an informative video. I have a gray saw that mounts on the Mark five and is upgraded to the new style blade holders. Haven’t spent much time on it yet, looks like a good time to pull it out. Is there any advantage of having the jigsaw also? The scroll saw seems to do everything the jigsaw can or am I missing something?
Hey James. Yes, there are a couple advantages to the jigsaw and I'll get into those when I shoot the video with it. Yes, I'm holding back some good stuff, so you might want to pick one up before the demand surges! Scott
Scott, love your videos. I just acquired an older model scroll saw with blade setting guide on the back sides of the table. Shopsmith offers an upgrade with blocks and cam system, 555708. Is it compatible with my older saw?
Yes, all updates can fit all SS scroll saws. Neat, huh?
Great video! I just went out to the shop to see if mine had the square hole in it. 👎 Can you think of any reason why I shouldn’t cut a square hole as long as I miss the bracing. It’s a pain to have to walk to my vice every time I need to change blades. I push my saw to the limit, cutting 1 3/4 thick pallets into letters and numbers for grandkids to learn to spell with. By the way the hold down helps then. I also noticed it looks like you sped it up. How fast is it safe to run at? Do you recommend clamping 1/4” strips of cut down old belt sander into the blade holder to sand inside turns. Will the side pressure wear out the bearings?
Hey Dave. I don’t think I would cut a hole but instead perhaps cut a hole in a block of hardwood or even UHMW plastic and use that. You could even attach that to the edge of the table if you’d like. The max recommended speed setting is “O”, or 2800rpms. I never have used sandpaper in my saw, but I’ve seen it done. You’d be hard pressed to wear anything out and even if you do the parts can be replaced, so go to town! Scott
Thanks
@@daveschmitt6369 You are welcome. Good questions.
Can you use a foot switch if you are powering the scroll saw with the headstock?
It’s not recommended. It sure would be nice, though.
@@MyGrowthRings I forgot to mention that it was the 520 headstock. Would that work? I recently bought a Pro Router tabletop from Shopsmith. If you remember, they came out 20 years ago. It was a router table designed to the work with the 520 tables with the aluminum extrusions. I wanted the ability to use the biggest router bits at normal router speeds but with Shopsmith's floating table system. I had to reinvent the hardware because they no longer sell it. What I've done is taken the tabletop and drilled new holes to match the shorter main table rails. The hardware uses offset cross dowel nuts or barrel nuts, the table spacer bushings on one side, and these special adjustable spaces that you can't buy anymore for the front rail. What I did to make the adjustable spacers was to use brake line nuts for 3/16" brake line and a standard nut. I filed down the brake line nut to shorten it slightly, then I drilled out the center hole and threaded it with a tap. When combined with the nut it creates an adjustable spacer just like the original hardware. I would love to see someone build one of these router tables from scratch out of raw MDMF board using the main table rails for the 520 and the 510. I've seen lots of variations but never a duplicate of the original design.
The router fence was a bit more of a problem. I managed to buy an Incra Wonder Fence and most of the original Shopsmith parts from Incra. They still had a few available last year and it took 6 months to obtain everything thanks to the supply chain problems. The only thing that I couldn't get were those right angle brackets that featured nylon wheels on them that gripped the sides of the floating table rails. I made a set out of some aluminum angle and some basic hardware store parts. If I had to do this over, I would have bought a Rockler or similar router table fence and installed some T tracks in the Shopsmith router table instead of going the Incra route.
@@haujeancontactee If you look at most of those floor switches they’ll tell you not to use them on a motor over a certain amp rating. I suspect the Shopsmith is over that rating. Likewise, depending on the speed that the headstock is set you might not be able to turn it off and on without lowering the speed. I suggest calling Shopsmith with that question, but I wouldn’t get your hopes up. I’d love to see a picture or video of what you’ve made. Me email is ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
@@MyGrowthRings I'll email you in a couple of weeks. The Shopsmith is in storage in the shed waiting for me to clean out the basement and upgrade the power in the house so I can plug it in. I should have it out and set up by November 10th. I just learned a lot from your 3 scroll saw videos. I've got one in storage that hasn't been used by me yet. When I set my system up in November I've got two ideas to explore. One is a stationary circle cutter using the jig saw, and the second version uses the overhead router with a 1/2" spiral upcut bit. The pivot pin jig is a piece of wood that slides onto the main tubes and sandwiches between the floating tables. I'm going to use an old dull drill bit for the pivot pin. The pin will protrude just enough between the tables to keep a big piece from popping off. It should work good for cutting large tabletops.
Hey Scott, my 1984 scroll saw has a broken rear trunnion. I’ve ordered it twice from Shopsmith, but I keep getting the wrong part. It’s #87 in the scroll saw parts diagram. I believe this part is different based on the vintage or country of manufacture. I found a parts diagram on line (not on the Shopsmith site) for the saw with the correct part #87 in the drawing. Anyway, here I have my near new 1984 Shopsmith Scroll Saw, unusable. Any ideas for where I can find this part?
They did change that part about three times, so I’m not surprised. Make sure that the manual you have is the manual for the exact model saw you own then get them on the phone.
Is the freestanding Shopsmith scroll saw variable speed?
It sure is. If you take a look at the photo at 3:13 you can see the dial on the switch box that’s mounted on the front leg. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Excellent, the slower speed is required for some materials and thin wood (1/8").
Is there a pre-owned sales market with the stand alone I can buy or is it available from Shopsmith?
eBay and Craigslist are the only place you'll find one today. SS currently has them both out of production. Here's an eBay link: ebay.us/JczluJ Scott
Hi Scott, I saw a scroll saw on ebay for a pretty good price, it/s a model 555220. Do you know if that was a fairly good model, would it be a good one to buy?
That’s a pretty early model, from 1991. I would pass unless it’s an amazing deal. Keep an eye out for a teal model if you can find one, because it will run smoother and have all the current features. Scott
I’m curious how you value the iterations of the scroll saw. I see available a blue (newest?) mark mounted scroll saw and a black (solid iron front with notches in the back) that is on a stand. Pro and con the two? Which would you prefer?
Jeffrey, the freestanding teal green Shopsmith scroll saw is my favorite. It's heavy, smooth running and powerful. From there I think the teal Mark V mounted version, mounted on a Mark V would be my next choice. I single out the Mark V because I don't like how much the Mark-mounted vibrates on a Power Station or Crafter's Station. NONE of Shopsmith's scroll saws have featured iron mart, so I'm not sure what you mean by that reference. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings the teal one you showed had a transparent plastic front flip piece. The other one I saw had an opaque metal one.
@@jeffreylopez5403 The teal saw with the plastic guard is the most recent design.
Any tips for restoration? I’ve got one but haven’t touched it yet.
What condition is it in and which version? Mark V-mounted or freestanding? Scott
Mark V mounted. I don’t think it has been used in a decade, but it seems in decent condition. I had no idea there were other versions, the overview was very helpful.
Who makes the best blades for scroll saw?
Hey George, "Best" is a tough call. I've used some spectacular blades but ultimately when you balance performance with price I find myself back at Olson for most jobs. These are my go-to blades: amzn.to/3ovQw0f Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I really like the Pegas blades especially the modified geometry. I mostly use #3 blades and buy them by the gross.
@@RobertKeeney Wow. What do you make?
Oh, wait, I already know!
@@MyGrowthRings I made noames cutting they into 3 D pieces and sanded to get 3D. Then glue the pieces to plywood.
RBI is still around. I have an older RBI scroll saw and an Excalibur EX-21.
Hegner is still here too.
Most scroll users don't use hold-downs. They are always getting in the way.
I would not buy a Shopsmith mounted scroll saw. If I were to run across a newer free-standing version of the saw, I would probably buy it. However, they seem to be rare in my area.
I don't know why anyone besides a tool collector would want the Shopsmith Jig Saw. I had one for a short time and practically gave it away to get it out of my shop.
For some reason I've never owned an RBI saw, but I have owned several versions from Delta, a Hegner, at least a dozen from Shopsmith and a DeWalt. It really is surprising to me how many I've owned considering I don't do a lot of scroll saw work, but my bride did. Not much anymore, though. As for the jigsaw, there's a couple applications where it really shines. More on that in a future vid. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I saw a small write-up on one of the newer Shopsmith scroll saws in "Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts" magazine. They were quite impressed with it. That article got me interested in picking up a used one. Your video answered a lot of questions I had about the Shopsmith scroll saw. Blade changes and how easy they do through cuts is a big deal and is why I have my EX-21. The Shopsmith scroll saw looks pretty good at blade changes. Since you have owned several scroll saws, perhaps you could make a video that compares the ease of blade changes between different saws. I have only owned three scroll saws. For the last few years, the scroll saw has been my primary tool for most projects. I use my Shopsmith bandsaw a lot as well.
@@RobertKeeney Our personal preference is the DeWalt DW788 scroll saw, but if a shop is built around Shopsmith tools, the Shopsmith scroll saw is a great choice as well. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I considered a DeWalt DW788 scroll saw and I am glad I didn't get it. If you use them a lot they wear out very fast. I know one person that cuts puzzles who wears one out about once a year cutting part-time. He likes the way they cut (aggressive) and keeps buying and rebuilding. The EX21 has great support through Seyco where they will talk you through troubleshooting on the phone. Unfortunately, all the new EX21s are made in China and have lots of problems. My RBI Hawk has only had one problem that was easy to fix. I had to replace the power switch I know of at least one person that uses them in a production environment and has never had to rebuild it. Hegner scroll saws seem to be pretty much the same they run for years without issue. If I were buying new today I would be torn between the Seyco, Pegas, and RBI.
Thankfully we haven't had any problems with it (knock on wood). That's unfortunate that they moved production overseas. Seems to be the way of the world.