REACTING TO AN INSANE DIOR FASHION ARCHIVE
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- Опубліковано 18 вер 2022
- I love an archive. I think we all know that at this point! But today's video is a look at an archive chock full of Dior and John Galliano pieces that are so beautifully kept, all by the editor and author Alexander Fury. Vogue's new series "Devoted" looks at some of the fashion world's most serious collectors and archivists, exploring their collections and how they have amassed them over time.
Inside This Journalist’s 300-Piece John Galliano Collection | Vogue:
• The John Galliano Coll...
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“My sport is fashion” “my team is Galliano” I can appreciate that
As can I.
Fantastic video as usual, thanks.
I can more than appreciate that. That's poetry, that should be tattooed on my heart. He's so sweet, some people... are just precious.
I want to hug this man. You are an art curator! It's not odd you wear gloves to protect the pieces! It's okay that you collect to protect, not to wear! You're amazing and what you're doing is wonderful!
Thank you for not glossing over John Galliano's antisemitic comments and telling us to "separate the art from the artist" but actually acknowledging how disgusting his comments are.
I loved his work, I loved Margiela (he's the new designer there), and as a Jewish gal, it's been tough reconciling it all ecsp without any real apology or ownership of the things he's done
I thought this was such an important part of those video and I'm glad he took the time to acknowledge and educate. Galliano was influential in fashion, but when we talk about those influences now it's also important to call out the harms he's done.
Yes yes yes 👏 . I was stunned when the news broke and honestly couldn’t bring myself to throw away my treasured Dior shades that looked so fly on my quite characteristically Jewish nasal bridge. Galliano’s earth-shattering talent took Y2K fashion to such amazing heights-as a rock chick, I felt like I had a true avatar at the pinnacle of the fashion scene who created brilliant, game-changing art, and didn’t just gesture toward my world-he was *one of us* like nobody had been, even Alexander McQueen. And then-blackout high and drunk or not-that ugly racist rant pulled a dark curtain over all the brilliance.
I remember being in my car, driving home from work, when the news broke, and it was like a sucker punch. I follow designers, but (as I said) I felt so excited by, and just adored, everything Galliano represented, until then. And he broke my heart.
I know he has worked hard to find his way back to the community. I genuinely hope his fall from grace led him onto a path to becoming a better man. He deserved his success, and he deserved his failure. But I also believe in forgiveness, and I hope he has found genuine redemption for himself. His talent is titanic and I hope I live to see him continue to strive and earn a place at the top of the fashion world again, an older and wiser and genuinely better person and a beacon of light for anyone who needs help overcoming such ugly and destructive beliefs. (And I really think he must be putting in the work, to have earned back as much trust as he seems to have; nobody wants to be burned again, and I hope nobody in the business wants anything to do with someone, no matter how brilliant, who harbors such disgusting beliefs).
00:06:15 Yes yes yes 👏 . I was stunned when the news broke and honestly couldn’t bring myself to throw away my treasured Dior shades that looked so fly on my quite characteristically Jewish nasal bridge. Galliano’s earth-shattering talent took Y2K fashion to such amazing heights-as a rock chick, I felt like I had a true avatar at the pinnacle of the fashion scene who created brilliant, game-changing art, and didn’t just gesture toward my world-he was *one of us* like nobody had been, even Alexander McQueen. And then-blackout high and drunk or not-that ugly racist rant pulled a dark curtain over all the brilliance.
I remember being in my car, driving home from work, when the news broke, and it was like a sucker punch. I follow designers, but (as I said) I felt so excited by, and just adored, everything Galliano represented, until then. And he broke my heart.
I know he has worked hard to find his way back to the community. I genuinely hope his fall from grace led him onto a path to becoming a better man. He deserved his success, and he deserved his failure. But I also believe in forgiveness, and I hope he has found genuine redemption for himself. His talent is titanic and I hope I live to see him continue to strive and earn a place at the top of the fashion world again, an older and wiser and genuinely better person and a beacon of light for anyone who needs help overcoming such ugly and destructive beliefs. (And I really think he must be putting in the work, to have earned back as much trust as he seems to have; nobody wants to be burned again, and I hope nobody in the business wants anything to do with someone, no matter how brilliant, who harbors such disgusting beliefs).
Unfortunately antisemitism seems very common in fashion, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Balenciaga etc all have got antisemitic pasts, mostly because of the Nazis closing the brands that didnt support them, but its really shocking how many oft he brands that have longevity have quite strong ties - if you want to read a book on it, I recommend The Seamstresses of Auschwitz, its heartbreaking
gurl get over it. lol. he did his time and explained it. stop crying.
I think doing a series of history making fashion shows and why they were so important would be incredible.
YEEEEESSS
This was so touching. I love that his approach to his collection is that of a curator for a museum and rather than someone who can afford a bunch of expensive clothes.
It was I teared up watching how much love and pride he had for his pieces. Fashion truly is an art that touches lives.
Fun note, comments from fashion historians indicate that clean hands are actually the best for handling antique garments. The cotton gloves can catch on sequence etc and the sensitivity you lose by touching fragile items through gloves, can lead to using too much force.
I didn't want to comment myself, because my area of expertise is in book archival rather than fashion archival, but yeah in the antiquarian book world we've gone in the same direction. We've also found that the oils on human skin are actually beneficial for book preservation.
@@person9872that's super interesting to know. I have a bit of a background in classical archaeology and there it's the same. The only thing you want to handle with gloves is bronze. And that's not to protect the objects, but yourself because they tend to stain everything they touch (it's not a health issue, but it's no fun to have stained hands, especially since that kind of stain doesn't just wash off).
Alexander Fury is such a legend, he's been at the top of the industry for such a long time and I respect him so much. Fashionphile letting you borrow those bags omg, they need to gift you one or two, theyre so beautiful
Your content means so much to me! None of my friends are into fashion like you and I are and I’m not involved in the industry… your videos are the only time I feel seen and appreciated.
Thanks so much Luke, all your hard work is noted and appreciated!
That collection could be its own museum.
“The possession of beautiful things....”
The feeling of that phrase is bright.
I think creating a fantastic Dior Museum, that maybe went on tour via Smithsonian exhibits all over the place would be a great way for the collection to earn and income, allow people exposure to it all and help him feel like he's doing something with it besides just hoarding it in his attic. That's just an idea of course. As long as whatever he does makes him happy more power to him.
I wouldn't necessarily say he's hoarding these pieces. He's collecting them as if they're art pieces. But a Dior museum would be a great idea. And costume museums in general need more funding.
Anyone eles notice the channel slowly refining itself? When I search fashion critics this is the first commentary channel that pops up now. Luke is getting good at the art of haha and hmms.
I can't imagine having a collection like that and not wearing the pieces!
I feel like I'd be too scared to wear it, but he actually does wear some of the pieces, which he shares on his insta when he does
Think of collecting these clothes like art pieces. You know how art collectors like to buy art and they know the meaning behind each piece, when it was made and how it was made? Thats just like being a fashion archivist. They know the meaning of each piece, which collection it was from, what year it got released and what kind of fabric and materials it was made out off. What if you might not be able to fit into the clothes since they're all sample sized? I would love to collect these as art pieces.
Just want to note that I work at an art museum and have met many a “Karen and Jill” trashing Vermeer paintings. (13:00) You’d be surprised what you hear in the European art galleries. 😂 I have had similar experiences that you describe about exhibitions in which I feel that certain works and artists are misunderstood and would be more appreciated if people knew the context/history. However, that is the beauty of content creators like you. You are helping breakdown the barriers to make the history and significance of fashion and art more accessible.
I seen this before, but hearing him talk about his love for fashion made me emotional again. The crack in his voice while talking about that dress was so touching 🥲
I loved the glimpses into that collection but wanted to keep seeing pieces…. It would be amazing if someday he did either do a vid tour of everything (though I realize it’d be very, very long) or somehow have a rotating display where pieces could be viewed.
Or even a digital archive. I love those, where you can zoom in and look at the details and stitching.
I also wanted to see more of his collection
The green bag behind you caught my eye when I was watching your Venice video. I thought to myself "wow, that color and this shape are amazing!" I didn't know it was Dior because I'm not a fashion expert but I knew I love it. Now that you've listed it I know it's way out of my budget. Still in love, now I can look for something similar.
It would be crazy fun if he re-staged a fashion show and streamed it live. I would pay money to see Dior 1996 spring fashion show.
all this referencing to alexander fury on your shelves is making me desperate for a bookshelf tour!! you have such an interesting collection of fashion books
I would love to see a video of best and worse looks from famous people, starting with Gaga
Galliano himself is absolutely insufferable even through just reading about him and how he worked/works during the 90s. From what I've read he was a horrendous boss and plain insulting. Can't deny his talentthough but I'll appreciate it for free and at a distance and with no fan fare whatsover.
The way Luke talks about fashion and the way he reacts is so amazing to look at. It is like he really really enjoys fashion and loves to talk about it, collect it. It’s so fascinating to see like how much he loves fashion. The time he invests in these videos and to search and finds things and everting is to be appreciated. I absolutely love him and these videos that he does.
These people with such an obsession show us the true meaning of love.
Glad you spoke about the addiction fueled G racism. These artists whose beliefs just poop on their own accomplishments. I can't look at their work with the same unbridled enthusiasm.
THIS CHANNEL MADE ME INTERESTED IN FASHION !!!!!!!!!11 I love it so much, and I dress the same since I was six so it is not like I am going into fashion soon, but i just enjoy Luke's talking about it and learning about a thing I would not pay attention to otherwise.
I remember watching the Galliano shows after school on the tv as a teenager. I have always loved that era. I even went to work for Dior in cosmetics later. Its always been hard for me to reconcile his views with the work, because it is still so inspiring.
Honestly The Met should contact people like this and stage a runway show with all their vintage fashion
I'm so glad you reviewed this one. As soon as I watched it I thought this would be a video you would definitely appreciate and could probably relate to.
Thank you for reviewing it!
Will you ever do a video about your book collection? :)
There is a discussion among conservationists about how much wearing cotton gloves protects historical clothing and paper. The points of contention are that they leave fibers behind, snag on things, and make it difficult to tell how much pressure you are putting on an object. Bare, freshly washed hands free of perfumes and lotion might be better.
I don't have a strong opinion either way, but I thought it worth bringing up. I like to see people making an attempt at preserving what is meaningful to them.
This just makes me think of Carrie Bradshaw... especially the saddle bags
Like the collab with fashionphile! 👏🏽
Cool to see these gorgeous bags 🤩
This was a great program! Thank you! Textiles and clothing give me so much joy as well.
I love watching people talk about things that they’re passionate about!
His collection is incredible. But i would rather have your incredible book collection 💜
when are you going to give us a bookshelf tour luke!!! I actually cant wait any longer I MUST know what those books are.
Not me crying over a fashion video 😭😅
The emotions of this was so sincere and beautiful
Loved this video so much ! Please continue reacting and sharing your thoughts on anything really x
He has the most insane Westwood collection and wrote the recent catwalk book.
When I saw the "baby maker" dress I gasped I LOVED PSYCHOTICALLY LOVED that Pocahontas collection and all of his Native American pieces and shows they were genius jaw dropping I thought I died and gone to heaven, so yes I get this guy and where he's coming from
I appreciate the way you handled, John Galiono’s Anti Semitism. I always love your commentary but, your comments on the fashion and the art is so thoughtful❤
Watching your videos, listening to you share your knowledge has been very enlightening for this lady with zero fashion sense, and this one was quite special! Sometimes, these days, it seems as though fashion has lost its sense and I truly appreciate the passion for the pieces of yore that are expressed here.
I have an acquaintance that purchases storage lockers. He happened upon one that no one else was interested in and he got it for a song. It was discovered to be full of beautiful vintage Chanel and Versace pieces - clothing with gorgeous pieces of the designer's jewelry and other accessories! It was amazing to see racks of this clothing and boxes upon boxes of carefully stored jewelry. Watching this video made me wish that someone with that kind of appreciation and passion would have been present to purchase and care for those pieces!
You are such a treasure trove of fashion knowledge 📕 📚
Loved this! Such passion for the clothes was amazing ❤️
I have been looking AT the double saddle! Gorgeous!
love the video luke!! i myself have been trying to get more into fashion history/archives and i know you do a lot of research through reading. could you please do a video on how you source books to read and what books would be beneficial to read?
I loved this too , thanks for sharing. Love you Luke.
I certainly understand his obsession, mine is fabric, but one of the things clothing needs is room to breathe. He has things jammed so close together and I suspect the pieces in the clothing bags are rubbing against the inside of those bags. In his desire to have everything close to him he could be destroying them. They need room, they need temperature control, they need to be catalogued, they need proper storage. Everything would be better off in acid free boxes than hanging on hangers. You really can love things to death and I'm afraid he's going to start killing pieces in the next couple years if he doesn't take better care of them.
Luke how would you handle the issue if you happened to be bidding against a designer and won and they wanted the garment?
It's nice to see his passion for the clothes and collection.
But I think if possible he should put on a small exhibition of some of the clothes. It's a pity to keep others from seeing it in person.
At least that's how I feel about collections and collectors, be it fashion or art or other things. But I also completely under the desire to keep it all to oneself and have the immense satisfaction of knowing that you're the only one who gets to own and see those particular pieces.
I've watched your video's about the women's pieces that you have bought and have always wondered 'why?' Why would some one want to own such an expensive piece of clothing with no intention of wearing it. This video, however, Has brought to light exactly WHY. Watching you react to this has brought a whole new understanding for me and I feel foolish for having had that question to begin with.
on Christian Dior: in my teens i use to religiously go to Borders Bookstore and read the fashion mags. in an issue of Vogue, on the final page, they once had a Christian Dior Fine Jewelry Ocean Jewel Ring. that ring remains the most beautiful piece of jewelry i have ever seen...
on John Galliano: The Fall 2000 Couture Collection for Christian Dior is my favorite collection of all time. I call it The Wedding of The Countess and The Cultist. His collection for Fall 2005 is my second favorite.
So happy for this sponsorship style tbh!! Such a beautiful idea with vintage pieces especially.
It is refreshing to see Luke get excited and giddy over this collection.
LOVE the vintage t-shirt Mr. HauteleMode is wearing.
I have always dreamed of having a McQueen collection similar to his but alas the money has not come yet 😂😂😂 i can only dream!! Excellent video as always
Truly inspirational in every aspect.
I loved this so much and I loved seeing you so touched. It was touching to me too. xxoo
I think this is my fav video of yours I've seen :-)
Am I the only one that wasn’t into the saddle bag. But I appreciate your commentary on anything
Aaaaa was waiting for this!!!!!
19.18 WAIT I HAVE THAT AT HOME. Never knew about all of that. I'm shocked
as a jewish young woman at the time i remember feeling shattered cause i honestly believed art is sublime and there for above race or religious differences.. i really hope he changed. i adored him.
When I watched this, I just KNEW you were watching it with me. Lol
Thank you for acknowledging Mr. Galiano's horrendous beliefs on the Jewish people and being so thoughtful and respectful across the board. This is one of my favourite videos of yours, Luke, and I would love to see what you come up with for a video about designers and their archives!
Luke! This was wonderful!
Luke...I happen to love your sensitivity and fearless and open stance on many civil tooics. You are an interesting and lovely..oh snd FUNNY person. As the younger people say, "I stan you☺"
I was waiting for this one 😌🤭
I was waiting for this reaction. ❤❤❤
Omg that double saddle is beautiful 😍
Legit thought for quite some time that the shelves were a fale backdrop :'(🤣🤣
LUKE: SO ARTICULATE!!! BRAVO!
I love Alexander and his sentiments were very touching , but I was more moved by what you said about all of this being a very valid and moving form of art that we all interact with . So well said and very inspiring to me .
It was also cool that I was also 16 when I got my first designer piece period and it was a pair of galliano Dior sunglasses spring 2004, the big rhinestones on the sides 😅 we were really broke but my mom took me to Paris cuz she used to live there … it was a huge gift at the time I think almost €400 , but omg we had the funnest time searching all over Paris for them , she said I had to be buried in them😅 I’m 35 now and I still have them and would never part with them they’re a piece I’m really proud to own and strangely proud of my taste at 16 lol
My mom thought they were tacky af then and probably still does and doesn’t “get” my obsession with fashion, but I think by now she at least gets that I truly have sentimental value in these things and I don’t just let things go as a passing fad.
I live in Wichita, KS! (13:06) Love your videos.
I think it’s equally important, when taking about his comments, also acknowledge where they are coming from. How did it happen, that a huge designer suddenly started saying nasty stuff. So it’s important to realise the amount of pressure the industry puts on designers. None of us really know, until we’ve designed over 30 collections per year and within them about 1000 pieces. And to do that under leading luxury brand. No one can stand that amount of pressure.
They should've showed more pieces
agreed, but he does share them on his insta often
I absolutely love your shirt.
What a wealthy 16 year old :) Beautiful collection! wowing, really. Glad you reacted to this!
Oooh love Dior♥️♥️♥️
I want your green bag! ❤️ 😍
I had the incredible privilege of working with John Galliano during his last 2 collections at Dior, and I hope you can make a video one day on the immense pressures in the fashion industry.
John did not have time to rest, not once at all. And his controversial comments were a result of a broken artist. As for the recording, my colleagues and I have a conspiracy that it was a paid inside job to tarnish his image due to contractual issues. The whole thing was just really unfair.
Today, some of my colleagues at Dior, have gone to Margiela, cause at the end of the day, we know what really happened.
Estas muy cerca de lo que paso, la misma firma de Dior o los dueños crearon esa situacion del video para tener una escusa y despedirlo, Galliano era muy influyente, ofrecio belleza y feminidad en el mundo de la moda, en estos momentos quieren caotizar y reformar al mundo en todas sus areas y la moda es una de ellas tambien
Oh I love the green one
This collector is a legend
Great video!
The Diorella bag omg😭😭🫶
as soon as i saw the original i knew you had to make a video about it 💗😭
Honestly? I thought the bookcase was a "backdrop". I am even more impressed. I do think he could easily be in education. Hopefully, many view his videos as tutorials.
Thanks for posting.
As a young woman in NYC I had a job re-sewing sequences after models tried them on.
Collecting fashion is like collecting art.
Only it's more expensive and more demanding to maintain - I agree
i really wanna see his Vivienne Westwood collection
i think my jaw would be dislocated
Honestly I feel like he's gate keepeing cause I WANT to buy every item & wear it hahahaha
I love my vintage designer items. Feel a bit bad about wearing them sometimes though.
Isn't it beautiful to see and hear the truth? And thank you for your comments on Designers personal lives.
❤❤ So good.
I appreciate his passion and I get wanting to own a couple of archival pieces but i don't know how I feel about hoarding ... *this* ... *many* ...garments. Especially if you don't intend on wearing them. I do understand wanting to preserve this pieces but wouldn't they be better off in an archive of a museum, where the public can access them from time to time?
He's handsome and a great catch, Luke. You have a lot in common. call him
Luke, is it possible we can't switch the quality of your videos to 1080p?
As a historian and an Aquarius things like these really just tickle my pickle
I love this channel dearly! But will you consider using AirPods/wireless earphones (just a suggestion) ya know the wire stretched from the screen is a bit distracting ahhaha
Hey hey. Can anyone tell me the name of the intro song ?
You are getting better and better at this! Let Luke consult VOGUE!