Great video and exactly what I needed. Had the magneto cleaned and gapped in 15min, and just finished the laws (that bit took longer than 15min though :-) )
Hlw bro, I am having a lot of trouble with two lawn mowers. The problem with my machine is that after starting, the rpm increases and the start stops. Same problem in both. Please tell me the solution
In the process of replacing a dead magneto coil I found that these are polarized... I installed the new coil in the same direction of the old coil (plug wire was facing the left). I checked for spark and didn't get one....after cleaning flywheel and all grounds and still no spark... finally flipping coil over and now I have spark.... there is no indication on direction for installation....
20k is where i was taught to test them at any other range will produce a false reading. On my Briggs dealer test each year one of the questions is what range of ohms is a coil tested at. The cheap meters at Harbor Freight have a 20k setting, i used one of those for years.
Question- does one of the old model flywheels have (two) magnets on the outside as North + South???? This could be used to make AC in ignition coil primary. - test with polarity magnet ! I am modifing an engine "intermediate dual coil primaries " magneto for AC so as can get high voltage DC out with bridge diodes.
As far as i know all small general purpose engines use permanent non-polarity magnets in the flywheel, some older models used two magnets, most now adays use 1, electronic ignition coils are DC, Pulsed DC at anywhere from 10-50,000 volts, they only send current one way.
@@TheOutdoorPowerGuy No such thing as a non polarized magnet. Monopoles are one of those science fiction tropes :-). I think what you mean is the magnets are the same polarity.
I've been searching online for an answer to what I thought was a simple question, but can't find it anywhere. Maybe you would know. Are those also magnets on the backside of the flywheel (opposite of the main magnets you were showing)? If so, mine must have lost nearly all their magnetic strength, because I can't get anything to stick to them nor a compass to detect anything. Do you know if this flywheel has magnets in both the front and back?
Flywheels only have magnets on the front part , the other things that look like magnets are not magnets, the entire flywheel has to be replaced if the magnets are weak, worn or damaged as that can cause intermittent spark, no spark and other ignition/spark related problems.
Thank you so much for that informative response! I couldn't find that answer anywhere. That is definitely helpful and leads me to now believe my flywheel is likely not the problem, since the front magnets seem to be quite strong. But I will stop worrying about those things on the back that looked like magnets but wouldn't even hold a paperclip. Huge thank you! :)
@@GuyusSeralius those things on the back for a 1 pole dynamo (flywheel) are weights to counterbalance the rotation and ensure the shaft doesn't bend out of round.
I figured that's what they must be if not magnets. I finally figured out that the kill switch was making contact when it shouldn't be. I had to adjust one of my cables to fix that little problem that cost me weeks of time and anguish. Thanks for taking the time to confirm those are merely counterweights.
@@bellsback Oh wow, that was quite a while back, so I don't strongly remember. It was either the insulation had been worn down on the kill switch wire and it was coming in contact with metal on the engine and/or the clip that normally holds it in place was out of shape and therefore not preventing the end of the wire from coming into contact with metal on the engine. I think it had both of those issues. I remember reshaping the clip and taping up the exposed area of the wire, then my mower was able to start up right away each time.
My coil is 1.5 ohm’s do you think it’s bad , engine starts but then stalls out thks
Great video and exactly what I needed. Had the magneto cleaned and gapped in 15min, and just finished the laws (that bit took longer than 15min though :-) )
Hlw bro, I am having a lot of trouble with two lawn mowers. The problem with my machine is that after starting, the rpm increases and the start stops. Same problem in both. Please tell me the solution
ua-cam.com/video/JOI293d8XUg/v-deo.html
In the process of replacing a dead magneto coil I found that these are polarized... I installed the new coil in the same direction of the old coil (plug wire was facing the left). I checked for spark and didn't get one....after cleaning flywheel and all grounds and still no spark... finally flipping coil over and now I have spark.... there is no indication on direction for installation....
What's the little wire on the top right e
What testing measurements can use to test ignition coil? Have a meter, but there's no 20k option
20k is where i was taught to test them at any other range will produce a false reading. On my Briggs dealer test each year one of the questions is what range of ohms is a coil tested at. The cheap meters at Harbor Freight have a 20k setting, i used one of those for years.
@@TheOutdoorPowerGuy so I need a new one. That's where I got this one
Question- does one of the old model flywheels have (two) magnets on the outside as North + South???? This could be used to make AC in ignition coil primary. - test with polarity magnet ! I am modifing an engine "intermediate dual coil primaries " magneto for AC so as can get high voltage DC out with bridge diodes.
As far as i know all small general purpose engines use permanent non-polarity magnets in the flywheel, some older models used two magnets, most now adays use 1, electronic ignition coils are DC, Pulsed DC at anywhere from 10-50,000 volts, they only send current one way.
@@TheOutdoorPowerGuy No such thing as a non polarized magnet. Monopoles are one of those science fiction tropes :-). I think what you mean is the magnets are the same polarity.
so, if im too stupid to have a feeler gauge, and need an actual number, do i just throw the mower away?
a standard thickness business card is about equal to .010" which is sufficient if you do not have a feeler gauge.
@@TheOutdoorPowerGuy The correct answer to this simply 'YES!'
I've been searching online for an answer to what I thought was a simple question, but can't find it anywhere. Maybe you would know. Are those also magnets on the backside of the flywheel (opposite of the main magnets you were showing)? If so, mine must have lost nearly all their magnetic strength, because I can't get anything to stick to them nor a compass to detect anything. Do you know if this flywheel has magnets in both the front and back?
Flywheels only have magnets on the front part , the other things that look like magnets are not magnets, the entire flywheel has to be replaced if the magnets are weak, worn or damaged as that can cause intermittent spark, no spark and other ignition/spark related problems.
Thank you so much for that informative response! I couldn't find that answer anywhere. That is definitely helpful and leads me to now believe my flywheel is likely not the problem, since the front magnets seem to be quite strong. But I will stop worrying about those things on the back that looked like magnets but wouldn't even hold a paperclip. Huge thank you! :)
@@GuyusSeralius those things on the back for a 1 pole dynamo (flywheel) are weights to counterbalance the rotation and ensure the shaft doesn't bend out of round.
I figured that's what they must be if not magnets. I finally figured out that the kill switch was making contact when it shouldn't be. I had to adjust one of my cables to fix that little problem that cost me weeks of time and anguish. Thanks for taking the time to confirm those are merely counterweights.
@@bellsback Oh wow, that was quite a while back, so I don't strongly remember. It was either the insulation had been worn down on the kill switch wire and it was coming in contact with metal on the engine and/or the clip that normally holds it in place was out of shape and therefore not preventing the end of the wire from coming into contact with metal on the engine. I think it had both of those issues. I remember reshaping the clip and taping up the exposed area of the wire, then my mower was able to start up right away each time.
Thanks worked for me turns out the coil was bad fortunately had a couple junk mowers laying around
thanks share this video
If gap is to wide will i get sparks.
How do you clean the magnets?
you can use sandpaper, fine grit.
My coil is 1.5 ohm’s, do you think it’s bad, engine starts but then stalls out thks