for everyone's edification: there is a port inside your throttle body that the IAC valve uses to adjust idle. that channel gets clogged. get carb cleaner and spray it into that port while the intake pipe is off until it idles correctly. I had a 94 F150 that did the same thing and this was what sorted it out.
+MustangConnection1 great video I had the same issue and cleaning it does work I did one thing that you missed trying cleaning what I think is a oxygen sensor that you unplug near the MAF..also clean throttle body why i was there...good luck..
Good job Rich and you use the right product too. The cleaner has to be formulated for Mass air flow and throttle blades for sticky throttle bore.. To many use carb cleaner and mess up everything. Thumbs up
Rusty Glovebox Thanks Lloyd, credit the forums for making sure I used the right stuff and not carb cleaner. I still have to change out the TPS and see if that fixes things once and for all. Thanks for checking in :)
scottsinfl Thanks for that tip Scott, ya the forums are full of this exact problem, I have changed the fuel filter too but still hanging up. ODB1's don't help much on the diagnostic front either.
I cleaned the maf and changed out the idle air control valve on my old daily driver (contour with 2.5l dohc) and it cured my rpm issues. But every year I needed to clean out the AIC valve with the maf cleaner or the problem would come back. Hopefully you can find a cure. Good luck.
Cobrafanatik22 Thanks Billy, I understand this is a typical problem with the ODB1 set ups. No real help from the computer read out and no idiot lights on so process of elimination.
Do you remember what fixed the issue? Maybe that throttle body could use some cleaning since alot look like it came through that filter maybe its a sticky throttle
IAC has always been an issue for Ford. No high idle (for cold temps or a/c demand), to high of an idle, surging or erratic idle. Cleaning it works sometimes but I always replace it because it usually wont last long. That Mustang turned out nice I like the way it looks with that interior.
Shakes 73 Ya I checked the forums and this is very common, you are right about cleaning vs. replacing, in this case it didn't fully work. I am gonna change the TPS and if that doesn't fix it then I will change the MAF too. Thanks Chris more cosmetics to come.
My '04 Mach 1 is idling high when I use my A/C or heater in a cold start. I cleaned my filter, mas, throttle body & replaced my iac & still idles up and down between 1300 & 800 rpm at cold start. Suggestions?
Your throttle body needs cleaning it is caked up with oil from your stock valve cover vent tube. Use TB cleaner only..Delete that hose and get a breather oil filler cap. Thats the fix..
I never had to, after driving the car a bit with the clean up of the MAF the computer seemed to have solved the problem on it's own so to speak. Got lucky I guess the car was running perfectly when I sold it.
there is a port inside your throttle body that the IAC valve uses to adjust idle. that channel can get clogged. get carb cleaner and spray it into that port while the intake pipe is off until it idles correctly. I had a 94 F150 that did the same thing and this was what sorted it out.
Korey Whitley I have not fixed it yet....however I did recharge the AC and while doing so many of the vacuum lines were cracked and needed replacing. It has smoothed out somewhat since then and the surging seems to be diminished a bit. It's in the works.
www.sn95forums.com/content.php?s=5bcff7965b8e4e0164f8fb6d1173ac8b I would post here , they are a lot of people who might be able to walk you though your issue.
I have a problem with a 95 automatic 5.0 I step on gas and it doesn't really respond I already washed the injectors and didn't see any diference does anyone know wath could be wrong? Thanks
That cleaner smells like brakleen or electronics cleaner. On to the next repair. You must have used the wrong stuff to spray in there and messed up the speedometer in the process... You know you cleaned the mass airflow sensor which also senses the speed of the air and determines the speed of your automobile. You know what I mean??? Kinda like when you change the steering idler arm and the car stops idling properly...
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man George, It is actually MAF cleaner specific so I did buy the right stuff. I think the MAF and or the TPS are both bad and made just need replacing( at least that is what all of the Ford forums are saying) I think the speedo malfunctioning is actually something I may have screwed up when I fixed the odo, it's intermittently working so I am gonna remove the cluster again and take a peek. Thanks for the feedback, always appreciated sir!
This should be called how to clean the MAF BUT HOW NOT TO DIAGNOSE! SMH I guess, if you have lots of time and money to waste taking guesses in the dark, it be for you! However what about using REAL diagnostic skills? Like getting codes and then getting out a DIGITAL multi meter and ACTUALLY TESTING as suspected part! While it is a good idea to clean the MAF it really sucks to spend the time and to film ones self thinking you are going to fix the issue only to nervously laugh when it does not. Stop Reading what a problem MIGHT be and spend that time LEARNING HOW TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE!! Then you will look GREAT!! Cant believe that anyone that claims to be a REAL AUTO LOVER and Stang authority would actually post this. For me you last my confidence. LOL Sorry but sometimes the truth is a bit rough to take.
Well it is not a diagnostic video so not sure what your all hot about. This is for those who have already taken the 5 mins to Google idle issues who want the path of least resistance to a common problem. As you noted is about cleaning the MAF not diagnosing. It seems it has helped enough people that you can't please everyone. Maybe it's time for you to make a video.
Maybe so. BTW not really hot, just get tired of seeing people screw up more than what the real issue is when they try and DIYS and then bring it in to me or those tech that take the time and spend the money to actually learn and then bitch about what we charge. Case in point, the way I saw this video is a friend who's daughter has a 95 Stang had the ABS light on and the Ck Eng light on. the engine would stumble and hesitate from a standstill. Used scan tool and found ABS was a right front sensor. Told her that before I even pulled it apart I wanted to get the sensor in hand because the most likely situation was the sensor was bad. (I am trying to help her out but do not want to waste my time either doing double labor). She sends me videos on ABS sensor issues. SMH Good God Woman I told you that I would clean and check it before replacing!! Had to SMH some more. As if this was not enough, AFTER I did what she asked, pulling it apart and found that the sensor was in fact bad - (Sensor connector up behind inner fender well and pulling wheel and rotor to clean rust and dirt from reluctor ring etc.) All this to just have to put it back together again till the part came in and then pull back apart. :( SMH some more!! As I said the vehicle also had a Ck Eng light one. I pulled that codes as well at the time I checked the ABS issue. I had Found a hard fault code 157. She HAD tried to tell me it was because of the coolant temp sensor and wanted to argue the issue!!! WRONG AGAIN!! Good God woman where the hell are you getting this info from, I ask! Her reply, "I Googled it" I kid you not!!! The one and only code in the entire system was 157 MAF sig v low. NOW SHE SENDS ME YOUR VIDEO!!!! GEEZ LA WEEZ!! Damn my neck is beginning to hurt and I am getting dizzy from SMH!!!! In my initial diagnosis, I first checked the ABS system. Then I checked the EEC codes. Then I checked the MAF - both signal ref. voltage - 5.0 and bat voltage - 12.8 and Both grounds - good. this was with sensor disconnected, then again connected and with KOER. Sig v 0.00 and no change with throttle opening and RPM increase. Both the ABS (less pulling the wheel, cleaning sensor and reluctor ring and pulling inner fender well to get to connector and testing the sensor - open sensor) and the MAF (testing the voltage and grounds were diagnosed in 15 min using PROPER DIAGNOSTIC SKILLS. Add another 30 min all said and done to get on lift, pull apart, test and partial reassemble to get out of the way for the ABS, so a total of 45 min diagnostics all said and done. Seems as of last comment before me you still had not resolved the one issue??? Sad to say that it is no use trying to help people that think Google and UA-cam videos are the answer!! BTW a good ending to this nightmare with this person. One all is working as it should. And TWO AND MOST IMPORTANT. TO share a little help for anyone out there that may have the ABS issue. The right front sensor is no longer available from anyone. In fact not one of the 4 sensors are available any more. Not being made!!! This really had me hanging up and them I had to get involved helping her find and get the part. What I found is the Right Front and the Left Rear are the SAME SENSOR!!! The only difference is the mounting grommets on the cable!!! Just have to modify that and they are identical!! The same is true for the Left Front and the Right Rear!!! JUST FYI!! :) Hope this helps you all or some one out there!!! :)
I hear you, I will say, not sure if you watched the video, I don't mention codes once, for a reason.....this car was not throwing any codes or errors. It fixed the problem of the hanging idle for so it communicated what was intended. I'm not sure how this video even correlates to what your client brought you. I really think you should take the time to go ahead and upload a video and share what you are conveying in your comments.
But how not to diagnose? So, I am assuming that you would not consider the maf cleaning to be a maintenance procedure then? I've never had to "diagnose" the need for an oil change. But, what would I know? I've been wasting time with a fsm when all I had to do was seek your empirical wisdom. Just kidding, my diagnosis of your inability to expound upon a post in a constructive manner leads me to think that your head's MAF sensor is basically just another EGR valve, recycling the unburnt byproduct of your gasbagging. (Might wanna check your head gasket too!)
for everyone's edification: there is a port inside your throttle body that the IAC valve uses to adjust idle. that channel gets clogged. get carb cleaner and spray it into that port while the intake pipe is off until it idles correctly. I had a 94 F150 that did the same thing and this was what sorted it out.
holly cow cleaned mine and was so amazed how much power I got back!
Cool!
I just recently cleaned out my maf sensor on my 95 mustang gt with the exact same solvent and I have to say, it responds way better!
Glad that worked that is great to hear.
Some great tips . You will get it figured out soon
huck01955 Hope so Joe, it is def running better just with those couple of maintenance things completed.
+MustangConnection1 great video I had the same issue and cleaning it does work I did one thing that you missed trying cleaning what I think is a oxygen sensor that you unplug near the MAF..also clean throttle body why i was there...good luck..
I've had to do this several times...adding K&N filter only exacerbates the situation and the MAF requires more frequent cleaning.
Rudderify I am still working out the kinks, now onto the throttle body and the TPS.
@@MustangConnection1 will you be making a video showing how you clean/change tps?
Good job Rich and you use the right product too. The cleaner has to be formulated for Mass air flow and throttle blades for sticky throttle bore.. To many use carb cleaner and mess up everything. Thumbs up
Rusty Glovebox Thanks Lloyd, credit the forums for making sure I used the right stuff and not carb cleaner. I still have to change out the TPS and see if that fixes things once and for all. Thanks for checking in :)
I know this video is old but I sprayed carb cleaner on my maf and it started to hesitate on the throttle. U think I messed it up ?
When I take the maf off it don't change the way the car run either. Don't it suppose to run worse or cut off.
if I remember correctly they are called security torx heads.
The IAC mite be responding slow. When you change the tps you got to remove it just clean that too and see if it help's.
scottsinfl Thanks for that tip Scott, ya the forums are full of this exact problem, I have changed the fuel filter too but still hanging up. ODB1's don't help much on the diagnostic front either.
+MustangConnection1 have you found a solution? I'm having same exact issue
I cleaned the maf and changed out the idle air control valve on my old daily driver (contour with 2.5l dohc) and it cured my rpm issues. But every year I needed to clean out the AIC valve with the maf cleaner or the problem would come back. Hopefully you can find a cure. Good luck.
Cobrafanatik22 Thanks Billy, I understand this is a typical problem with the ODB1 set ups. No real help from the computer read out and no idiot lights on so process of elimination.
did you find the solution? i´m facing the same issue, i just cleaned the IAC and it helped a little but still has that problem
that hanging up on decell sounds like vacuum leak
Does a bad mass airflow sensor potentially cause smoking from the exhaust?
Do you remember what fixed the issue? Maybe that throttle body could use some cleaning since alot look like it came through that filter maybe its a sticky throttle
Cleaning the MAF did the trick. It does not hang any longer. I am sure it would hurt to clean the throttle body too.
IAC has always been an issue for Ford. No high idle (for cold temps or a/c demand), to high of an idle, surging or erratic idle. Cleaning it works sometimes but I always replace it because it usually wont last long.
That Mustang turned out nice I like the way it looks with that interior.
Shakes 73 Ya I checked the forums and this is very common, you are right about cleaning vs. replacing, in this case it didn't fully work. I am gonna change the TPS and if that doesn't fix it then I will change the MAF too. Thanks Chris more cosmetics to come.
MustangConnection1 bro how did you fix the problem? I have the exact same issue and I already cleaned the IAC and it didn’t solve the issue
Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaning sure helps.
MrMach12004 Man the car feels alive again even if it's still hanging up. Thanks for stopping by Gary.
It's called a tamper proof torx tool.
My '04 Mach 1 is idling high when I use my A/C or heater in a cold start. I cleaned my filter, mas, throttle body & replaced my iac & still idles up and down between 1300 & 800 rpm at cold start. Suggestions?
Throttle position sensor, have you replaced it?
MustangConnection1 , no I have not
Your throttle body needs cleaning it is caked up with oil from your stock valve cover vent tube. Use TB cleaner only..Delete that hose and get a breather oil filler cap. Thats the fix..
Idle Air Control Valve is sticking.. Pull it off and clean the carbon off the valve and stem.
good stuff
***** Thanks Nick, too bad it didn't fully work :\
Did you end up changing the TPS? Did it cure the issue?
I never had to, after driving the car a bit with the clean up of the MAF the computer seemed to have solved the problem on it's own so to speak. Got lucky I guess the car was running perfectly when I sold it.
@@MustangConnection1 takes a 25 mile drive for the computer to make long term changes.
Hey what was your other problem? I have the same problem
Cleaning the MAF did the trick, it just needed to be driven a bit after that...
there is a port inside your throttle body that the IAC valve uses to adjust idle. that channel can get clogged. get carb cleaner and spray it into that port while the intake pipe is off until it idles correctly. I had a 94 F150 that did the same thing and this was what sorted it out.
Need a new speed o gear .
think I need to do that on my 94 stang
It makes a big difference....super quick and cheap to do too.....
did u ever resolvve this problem my 95 does the same thing , id like to find a fix for it
Korey Whitley I have not fixed it yet....however I did recharge the AC and while doing so many of the vacuum lines were cracked and needed replacing. It has smoothed out somewhat since then and the surging seems to be diminished a bit. It's in the works.
+MustangConnection1 I also had a bunch of vacuum leaks that I fixed it solved my issue
hey my mustang stalls in gear but doesn't turn off but just struggling to drive either in drive or reversed help me out plz
www.sn95forums.com/content.php?s=5bcff7965b8e4e0164f8fb6d1173ac8b I would post here , they are a lot of people who might be able to walk you though your issue.
you should have cleaned the IAC too.
Scott T what’s the iac?
Intake Air Control valve
Can't hear it
Lit
I have a problem with a 95 automatic 5.0 I step on gas and it doesn't really respond I already washed the injectors and didn't see any diference does anyone know wath could be wrong? Thanks
Fuel filter, fuel pump, the injectors themselves may need to be replaced.
Mine will cut out for a sec
That cleaner smells like brakleen or electronics cleaner. On to the next repair. You must have used the wrong stuff to spray in there and messed up the speedometer in the process... You know you cleaned the mass airflow sensor which also senses the speed of the air and determines the speed of your automobile. You know what I mean??? Kinda like when you change the steering idler arm and the car stops idling properly...
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man George, It is actually MAF cleaner specific so I did buy the right stuff. I think the MAF and or the TPS are both bad and made just need replacing( at least that is what all of the Ford forums are saying) I think the speedo malfunctioning is actually something I may have screwed up when I fixed the odo, it's intermittently working so I am gonna remove the cluster again and take a peek. Thanks for the feedback, always appreciated sir!
MustangConnection1 I guess you know I was typing with my tongue in my cheek?
The Shade Tree Fix-it Man Roger that Mr. D.
All Greek to me ,your talking to a fossil .Hope it works for you Rich ,take care buddy .
Mordoor 53 Kevin, believe me, without the forums I would have been lost where to start on this one too.
This should be called how to clean the MAF BUT HOW NOT TO DIAGNOSE! SMH I guess, if you have lots of time and money to waste taking guesses in the dark, it be for you! However what about using REAL diagnostic skills? Like getting codes and then getting out a DIGITAL multi meter and ACTUALLY TESTING as suspected part! While it is a good idea to clean the MAF it really sucks to spend the time and to film ones self thinking you are going to fix the issue only to nervously laugh when it does not. Stop Reading what a problem MIGHT be and spend that time LEARNING HOW TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE!! Then you will look GREAT!! Cant believe that anyone that claims to be a REAL AUTO LOVER and Stang authority would actually post this. For me you last my confidence. LOL Sorry but sometimes the truth is a bit rough to take.
Well it is not a diagnostic video so not sure what your all hot about. This is for those who have already taken the 5 mins to Google idle issues who want the path of least resistance to a common problem. As you noted is about cleaning the MAF not diagnosing. It seems it has helped enough people that you can't please everyone. Maybe it's time for you to make a video.
Maybe so. BTW not really hot, just get tired of seeing people screw up more than what the real issue is when they try and DIYS and then bring it in to me or those tech that take the time and spend the money to actually learn and then bitch about what we charge.
Case in point, the way I saw this video is a friend who's daughter has a 95 Stang had the ABS light on and the Ck Eng light on. the engine would stumble and hesitate from a standstill. Used scan tool and found ABS was a right front sensor. Told her that before I even pulled it apart I wanted to get the sensor in hand because the most likely situation was the sensor was bad. (I am trying to help her out but do not want to waste my time either doing double labor). She sends me videos on ABS sensor issues. SMH Good God Woman I told you that I would clean and check it before replacing!! Had to SMH some more.
As if this was not enough, AFTER I did what she asked, pulling it apart and found that the sensor was in fact bad - (Sensor connector up behind inner fender well and pulling wheel and rotor to clean rust and dirt from reluctor ring etc.) All this to just have to put it back together again till the part came in and then pull back apart. :( SMH some more!!
As I said the vehicle also had a Ck Eng light one. I pulled that codes as well at the time I checked the ABS issue. I had Found a hard fault code 157. She HAD tried to tell me it was because of the coolant temp sensor and wanted to argue the issue!!! WRONG AGAIN!! Good God woman where the hell are you getting this info from, I ask! Her reply, "I Googled it" I kid you not!!! The one and only code in the entire system was 157 MAF sig v low. NOW SHE SENDS ME YOUR VIDEO!!!! GEEZ LA WEEZ!! Damn my neck is beginning to hurt and I am getting dizzy from SMH!!!!
In my initial diagnosis, I first checked the ABS system. Then I checked the EEC codes. Then I checked the MAF - both signal ref. voltage - 5.0 and bat voltage - 12.8 and Both grounds - good. this was with sensor disconnected, then again connected and with KOER. Sig v 0.00 and no change with throttle opening and RPM increase. Both the ABS (less pulling the wheel, cleaning sensor and reluctor ring and pulling inner fender well to get to connector and testing the sensor - open sensor) and the MAF (testing the voltage and grounds were diagnosed in 15 min using PROPER DIAGNOSTIC SKILLS. Add another 30 min all said and done to get on lift, pull apart, test and partial reassemble to get out of the way for the ABS, so a total of 45 min diagnostics all said and done.
Seems as of last comment before me you still had not resolved the one issue???
Sad to say that it is no use trying to help people that think Google and UA-cam videos are the answer!!
BTW a good ending to this nightmare with this person. One all is working as it should. And TWO AND MOST IMPORTANT. TO share a little help for anyone out there that may have the ABS issue. The right front sensor is no longer available from anyone. In fact not one of the 4 sensors are available any more. Not being made!!! This really had me hanging up and them I had to get involved helping her find and get the part. What I found is the Right Front and the Left Rear are the SAME SENSOR!!! The only difference is the mounting grommets on the cable!!! Just have to modify that and they are identical!! The same is true for the Left Front and the Right Rear!!! JUST FYI!! :) Hope this helps you all or some one out there!!! :)
I hear you, I will say, not sure if you watched the video, I don't mention codes once, for a reason.....this car was not throwing any codes or errors. It fixed the problem of the hanging idle for so it communicated what was intended. I'm not sure how this video even correlates to what your client brought you. I really think you should take the time to go ahead and upload a video and share what you are conveying in your comments.
But how not to diagnose? So, I am assuming that you would not consider the maf cleaning to be a maintenance procedure then? I've never had to "diagnose" the need for an oil change. But, what would I know? I've been wasting time with a fsm when all I had to do was seek your empirical wisdom.
Just kidding, my diagnosis of your inability to expound upon a post in a constructive manner leads me to think that your head's MAF sensor is basically just another EGR valve, recycling the unburnt byproduct of your gasbagging. (Might wanna check your head gasket too!)