The key thing about the CCRM is that it highlights how poorly designed our cars are, they really are a parts shelf special - why put the relays that control some of the cars critical functions in the most vulnerable place in the car, all together in a single unit, and in the least efficient place for the wiring where it takes the longest possible route from the engine bay, to the ccrm, into the cabin, then back to the engine bay, then back through the cabin again all the way to the back of the car!
Hello I'm trying to diagnose my friend 1994 mustang gt , the fuel pump is not getting power, it doesn't make any sound at all, we changed the pump twice, fuel pump fuse is good , I'm suspecting this part, cab I use a test light on pin number 5 to check for power to the pump? If it checks out ok, what else should I look for?
You are spot on in your assessment of these relays. They are pretty much indestructible. However in time the contacts lose there “follow”. That is the ability of the two contact surfaces to “Rub” against each other as they break connection”. This causes a tit to form on one contact and a pit to form on the other from the arc of electricity upon a set of contacts that have no follow. Latching contacts like this lead to circuits associated with that contact not being able to cut off. As an electronics technician with telephone switching our relays were accessible and a burnishing to would knock the tit of and then a spring bender to adjust the two contacts back to where “Follow” is there to prevent pitting upon release
On some models like my 95 Mustangs GT the CCRM also controls the A/C compressor clutch. On mine everything else worked properly but the compressor clutch would not engage. After closer inspection of the CCRM I found that the connector on the module was cracked and the relay for the compressor clutch wasn’t functioning so I replaced the CCRM which corrected the issue.
My AC clutch wouldn't turn on in my '98, went to the junkyard and got one and started working again. Kind of crazy how a small box can cause a number of potential issues.
I don't remember, but what I can tell you is it's metric and more than likely an 8 or 10mm. Just go to your junkyard and find one off around your year mustang. I pulled mine off either a 97 or 98, I tend to like to get parts from the same year, because components may have changed from year to year.
it might be the small relay in the corner of the box . drill out the rivets an open the ccrm an check the back of the board for burnt solder . the relay itself is cheap an a experienced phone / electronic repair shop can solder new relay in if your not to good at soldering .. but i would check fuses an everything out before looking at the ccrm . .
Thank you for this! Would love to see some more advice and content from you guys on SN95's. I have watched all of your videos. I sought advice for my poorly running 95 GTS. After lengthy discussion online, they said to replace the CCRM …. Meanwhile, the fuel pump is working fine - 35 to 39 PSI while running… I replaced the distributor, coil, TFI, plugs, and wires. Did a smoke vacuum test- no problems there ….Car is still running very badly. I’m not sure what is causing the problems … Tomorrow, I am going to pull the ECU and check those capacitors
I know this a late comment but before I bought this or thought of taking it out I checked the connector going to the radiator fan. The points on the connector tend to corrode or loosen over time. So move it around and see if the fan cuts in and out.
informative, but got here looking for why my PCM (I think) has no power - maybe that's what the smaller module/relay controls. fuel pump and fan run with key on - I assume these relays are closed with no input. 95 Taurus been running great for 25 years (just turned over 100k miles). Biggest thing I learned is how great the Ford factory manual is (I need the wiring diagrams), and that it's no big deal drilling the rivets that hold the PC board on - will look for cold solder joints if comes to that (fixed several electronic modules with broken solder joints). Thanks for uploading this.
I replaced my ccrm to fix fan no spin. I'm going to replace the bad relay on the old one as a spare and for trouble shooting in the future. ALso goo to take with on long trips.
So when you mention checking for voltage output from the CCRM, how do you actually go about doing that? I've checked for voltage output coming from the fuel pump fuse in the power distribution box, and got no voltage. I also noticed the fuse slot for the Fan was getting 0 voltage. My AC system was not working either. Is there somewhere else I can do this check?
I have a 95 gt and my car was not shifting out of overdrive, stalling out, getting horrible fuel mileage. My problem was the ECU computer which controls the motor and transmission according to Ford. I thought it was my distributor but I was wrong. But what your car was doing sounds like a distributor issue. Good video
Can you explain your issues more in depth. I also have a 95 gt auto and am going through gas very bad and also the cars surges if not stalls when i shift to reverse or drive when the car is up to temp. Please and thank you.
Yo Dude, you fucking rock!!! Love you for sharing this info,. I have no fuel purge in my 97mustang 6cylinder. Now I need to get it fixed. But you gave me clarity on my issue big time.
Have a 98 mustang GT first the AC stopped working, then the fan, then the fuel pump... I'm fairly certain it's the CCRM because it controls all of those... the only plus side is I sold the car about a year ago and told the new buyer the problem. He just hot wired the fan then sold the car.... fast forward to yesterday when I I found the car for sale again and brought it back home!
Im having a similar issue on my 98 mark viii LSC where I have no fuel pressure and no fans. All fuses checked out and the inertia switch has continuity because I suspected it first. I know it's not good for the 4.6 but I removed the air cleaner and shot a small amount of starter fluid in the throttle body. It starts and sputters but does run for a few seconds. I've also replaced the fuel filter and found someone from the previous owner jacked it up under the fuel line(s - return and evap). I have scabbed in new 5/16 vinyl from before the pinch, up the wheel well and onto the filter. Yes, it was a huge pia but I got to use my flaring set and heat gun. I'm about to remove the rest of the fender liner and check out the CCRM/VCRM but, as a hardware Engineer, I refuse to replace the entire unit until I screw this one up beyond repair. I have all the components to essentially rebuild the whole thing in my collection as I type this.
My car was running and suddenly died. (no fuel priming sound like usual) Fuel pump works when connected directly to battery. Fuse is good. I will be looking for ground issues and possibly open the CCRM(even though i still hear it click)
Take a look at the diagrams in this link on our website and check for 12V power on pin#5 with the Key on: gtconcepts.ca/main/index.php/2018/12/03/mustang-ccrm-all-you-need-to-know-with-diagrams/ Hopefully this gets you on the path to a repair! - Darren
check the vacuum hoses that may be rotten and need to be replace i had same problem and it was a hose that goes form outside to inside top of engine very unreachable and needs to remove top engine to reach them if you have a mustang 94 and up ,,,hope this help you ,, because vacuum hoses can give you a real headache for just a simple thing so small
UnTamed Mustang I have experienced a short in replaced stereo when pressing any button. I’m considering now that may have contributed to a damaged CCRM, if it turns out I have a grounding problem in the electrical system! I have recently had to replace driver side window motor and door lock actuator. I need to run down the cause before anything else is burned up!
I'm actually having a similar issue with my GT not starting and thats actually how i got here, and after watching now i want to know how you fixed your issue with the bogging down and stalling out. I was actually about to go out tomorrow and buy one to replace it, but now im not so certain that it would be a good idea since the issue with your car sounds quite similar to mine.
Like he said, they either work or they don't. The 3 relays control the fan, fuel pump and AC Compressor Clutch; if your fan turns on (high and low speed), your AC comes on, and you have good fuel pressure, the CCRM is not your issue.
Thank you very much for the video! When running high volume fuel pump does it make sense to bypass the fuel pump relay in the CCRM and install a new relay and heavy duty wiring? I see this done on older foxbody that don't have the CCRM.
It could certainly be done, but it would be a matter of determining if it is actually necessary. The main factor would be the amps draw of the new pump system, for example my own car has a Walbro HO 255 LPH pump to feed my supercharger and it has been running perfectly on the OE CCRM system since 2005. If you have something larger, take a look at the spec sheet and see what it would require. Chances are, if it is too much for the CCRM, it is too much for the power supply wiring as well and would need an upgrade in that area to match. If you did all that the CCRM fuel pump output could still serve as the trigger for the new relay and system. Thanks for watching and commetning! - Darren
My issue with intermittent fuel delivery in my 95" cobra , was the "PICK-UP MODULE" . inside the bottom floor of my distributor .... went defective.. i noticed a smaller relay , behind the larger 3 . you didn't mention it.
Sounds like you got it figured out though! This video is mainly a myth debunker to help those who are chasing ignition problems and are misled to the CCRM by internet lore. Thanks for commenting and glad to hear you're keeping another SN95 on the road! - Darren
I ran into this problem about a year ago. My fan stopped spinning all of a sudden. So, I changed both temp sensors and it didn't worked of course. So, I started digging around and found out about the ccrm problem. I was tight on money at the time so I tested the fan and the fan was good. I straight wired it to a toggle switch and for the most part it's still working. What I'm wondering now is if it's only working on low speed. I live in Texas and it gets pretty hot. Just today, my temp gauge went up to the A in normal but to me, that's too close for comfort in the overheating department. How do I go by testing the fan if it's only working on low speed?
Im in the exact same boat right now in my 2003 v6 mustang, I cannot for the life of me figure out why my fan won’t come on. I’ve replaced the sensors, checked the fuses and tested the fan, it runs perfect. I wish I could check if its the ccrm before dropping $200 replacing it
I got a 97 cobra that I just can’t get the fans to stay on. I directly got wired the low speed wire to the battery and still it won’t turn on I’m completely lost not sure why or if replacing my ccrm will help that if my wiring it straight to my battery isn’t working
Very informative breakdown of the CCRM., having trouble finding information on a 2000 v6 mustang, really appreciate any help finding wiring diagrams with plug & pin identification of the instrument cluster and in and out of the PCM., thanks, hope you can help, have tried searching forums and have gotten no help.
Luckily, the factory service manuals are available from a number of sources online as a .pdf Run a quick google for 2000 Mustang FSM and you should be able to get a digital copy for very little cash. The FSM is the real treasure for doing electrical, and combined with the EVTM (google it) there is very little that cannot be solved. Best of Luck, and Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
I think a lot most of the times all electrical connections need to be separated and cleaned out and snapped back together but they are so small so I am looking for a very small cleaning kit and I will separate all the connectors on my 04 mustang GT automatic dark shadow gray and clean them and snap them back together same as cleaning the battery cables
Does a bad ccrm prevents a car from being sluggish? I cannot done a burn out, basically. I had smoke from exhaust, delay start ups, and sounds coming from engine bay and feul pump area.
Those symptoms are not something usually related to a CCRM. This sounds like diagnostics into the ignition and fuel system are required. A general tune up and/or compression testing is a great place to start. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
After all of a sudden I got it to crank and turn over but the car turns on and intimately dies off . It stays on if I push the accelerator only I let go of accelerator and dies . Checked under dash fuses and ok except like 2 or 3 of them I put new ones on . No I checked pins going into the CCRM AND ONLY LIKE 8 OF THEM HAVE POWER THE REST DONT . HELP PLS ?
Do you know anything about DRL module on a 1995 svt cobra? I can't seem to find it , it supposed to be under the horns on the drive side splash shield. But its not there. I don't have fog lights, horn , and side markers. I'm guessing there's a problem with this module. But I can't find it.
I've got a lot of red flags at my ccrm module, 1 my fan will constantly with the car not running and the key in the on position, 2 my anti theft light is flashing, 3 my this happens I get a crank no start as if There's no power going my fuel pump. Towed it home and it started right up and all other problems went away for. Now I don't drive that car till I figure this out.
My ac clutch relay on my 2004 mustang i replaced with a new relay poped/blown after only two weeks of use i cannot find what causes it to blow so i can fix my ac clutch relay more permanently then 2 weeks.
I am getting a ticking noise from the ccrm, the car will not start. it almost sounds like it is shorting out. the battery cable is getting warm, as if it is shorting out.? any information or opinions would greatly be appreciated. i hope you can help me out with this.... THANK YOU!
I am trying to remove a full patch of gas from my 2002 Mustang gt. I can't siphon it due to anti siphon in the filler neck so looked on UA-cam and found that I can jump the fuel pump rely to run the fuel pump. However, because the rely is in the CCRM I need to figure out which wires in the wiring harness at the CCRM I need to access so I can do this. In my search it dawned on me that maybe I can access the wire(s) to run the fuel pump at the Inertia Switch by unplugging it and supplying 12v there. Can you please advise me on this or maybe you have a simpler way for me to drain my fuel tank where I don't need to drop the tank? Any help would be great. Thanks!
You could look at the diagram in the video description link and apply power from there, but the simple method I use, is to disconnect the fuel feed line, then cycle the key on and off to cycle the pump prime. OPen the line somewhere easy such as the fuel filter or underhood, and apply a drain to a gascan, then cycle the key, the pump will prime for 2-3 seconds, once it stops you can roll the key back to off and cycle to run again. It may take a bit of time, but I did my SVT Lighining tank this way, and the risk of damaging wiring or modules with jumpers is non existant. It's my go-to method.
Thanks for getting back to me on this. Yes, I did think of doing this but I need to drain over 14 gallons and doing it by cycling the pump would take forever to get all of it out. There is a person on UA-cam showing how on any car you can do this by jumping the fuel pump rely. He pulls the rely, installs a jumper wire on the two connectors where the switch is on the rely but as you know, I can't pull the rely as it is part of the CCRM, but, I thought maybe I could locate the two wires on the CCRM wire harness and jump it there. What I don't know is, do I also need to disconnect the other two wires as well? If I do it this way then I will set it up where I can easily access it again just in case I ever need to drain the tank again. I am looking at the wiring diagram for my 02 4.6L SOHC 2V but I don't see the fuel pump rely but when looking at the diagram for the 4.6L DOHC 4V I see it. Can I assume the wiring is the same? If so, then I think I should be able to access the RED wire and the WHITE/RED wire and jump those two. I will have a hose on the fuel rail to a can and all I should need to do is turn the key to the on position and the pump should run continually. Am I missing anything that you can think of?
I have a P0193 code and I was curious if the CCRM was the problem. But I wouldn't think that it would cause a high fuel pressure condition. The high fuel pressure is an intermittent problem though. According to my scantool info, it's most likely a bad FRPS. What say you? 2002 Mustang GT. Besides, it looks like the CCRM is discontinued.
I know this is suppper late but mine on my 2002 V6 mustang is making an extremely load buzzing noise, I’m 99% sure it is coming from the CCRM. Haven’t found much else on this. Checked all fuses and they are all good but I’m also not getting spark to my plugs.
Good video! I have a 1994 mustang GT that sometimes has a long crank, no start issue. Sometimes car will crank but no start, usually after several attempts at cranking car will start and run fine - any ideas?
As if they don't have a more convenient place to install that part on the car, just don't want people working on the car themselves. I would relocate it so next time you want to check it it's right there under the hood.
Hi Darren, I have a CCRM I'm trying to fix on my 94 5.0, and if you have the wiring diagrams I would love them! I was able to verify that when I give the middle leg of the pnp transistor ("solid state relay") 12v the AC clutch does engage, but somewhere on the board something failed and I'm having a tough time finding it. Any help would be appreciated!
My 01 GT fan turns on immediately, even when the engine is cold. It will turn on, turn off, turn on, turn off and so forth. I replaced the temp sensor with no luck. The internet says CCRM but your video has me questioning that. What are your thoughts?
My fans wont turn off when the key is on engine off and the car wont start at all unless the fans turn off but they randomly turn off then i can start it but instantly shuts off. Any help? 95 mustang gt
Hey I'm from Edmonton, im 351w swapping my 95 convertible. Been watching your videos then you said about and I was like he's Canadian then you showed the invoice and I had to laugh
my 94 just started doing that and I did not have a CEL so I did the koeo and koer tests and had code 117 which is Ect sensor ground and also a few other things which I'm thinking it's because of the ground that I got the other codes. I will check voltage at the pigtail connector today and see what I get and also plan on testing then splicing in a spare pigtail connector that I have to see if that fixes it.
I came here because the only thing I haven't replaced is the CCRM, my 1995 Mustang 3.8 is starting, idles, runs shaky at 1200 rpm, won't rev up unless you floor it. Checked and repaired vacuum leaks, spark plugs, cable, MAF sensor, TPS, fuel pump and filter, I literally replaced everything the internet came up with. Weird thing is : no codes, no CEL ??? Anybody any idea ?? Thanks !
Well I have a problem with my 99 GT. At the moment it doesn't turn on. The starter engages but the engine doesn't run. Before this happened it had the fuel trims super high like at 20+%. Also i noticed the temps would be a bit higher because i think i notice my radiator fan wasn't going Into high speed mode. Also out of nowhere my ac did not work anymore, slowly the clutch would keep engaging/disengaging until now. I dont know if that's a freon issue since I had the mechanic put a new compressor in. Anyway the other day I tried to turn it on and the car would only crank. It had a bit low fuel below 1/4th so I added more and it still wouldn't turn on. So idk if I should suspect the ccrm or some other fuel issue? By the way only mods on it as of now are long tube headers and exhaust
On my 04 Mustang GT, when I turn the key to run position, the fuel pressure doesn’t increase at the fuel rail. I do hear the fuel pump when I do turn the key. Psi stays around zero. When I disconnect the fpdm and connect the power wire and fuel pump wire together, the fuel pump will prime to 40psi at the fuel rail. The car takes forever to start. Over 5 seconds to start. I replaced the fpdm and still have issues. When I drive, the fuel pressure will be somewhat normal then when I punch the gas, the car runs super lean and the fuel pressure drops to about 20 psi or so. A possibility the ccrm has a bad relay?
Did you find out the problem of why the fuel pressure drops? I am having the same issue and I have replaced many parts and still hame the same problem.
Ok i know all my o2 sensors are good but all of my codes say the heater circuits have failed my question is what could be causing this i drive a 97 mercury cougar 3.8l with 93k miles. What controls this the pcm or the sn95. Once i solve this issue car will be tip top again.
Found out its my pcm . before we bought the car the last owner had a tire blow out and she went off the road and jumped a hump. The impact caused a short in the pcm aka computer. Once i replaced the pcm the money light went out and the car started running almost like new. Now im rebuilding the injection system after she will be tip top. Im doing this due to a low idle at stop signs.
Why won the my mustang stay running? It’s a 96 gt I replaced the fuel pump but after it starts it idles for literally a second then turns off and stops working
I have a 97 mustang gt I'm getting no voltage to the cooling fan plug every thing I've read says track back to your ccrm module my fuses are all good but the plug to the fan isn't getting any voltage so what else could be wrong if it's not the ccrm?
I would think that yours is a textbook example of a potential failed CCRM, but it is important to do all of the checks for voltage and wiring. You should be able to google and find the full diagnostic for a cooling fan and wiring to walk through before you swap that CCRM. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
I had replaced the CCM a few years back when I was having fan problems after installing new PCM the fan ran again for a few years and now I am having the same issues again...I have replaced everything else again to the cooling system except the CCM, the CCM I bought was fairly cheap so I am thinking the problem could be the CCM again
I have a 94 ford mustang which is running rich . Replaced the ccrm, stopped running rich for one run . Then ignition was shut off . Turned it back on and back to running again . Did I just get lucky and the ecu is bad ?
Without proper diag. it is difficult to speculate what is causing your rich condition, but I can assure you that the CCRM has absolutely no impact on fuel mixture control. It only provides power to the pump. The return style fuel system in your 94 runs the pump at a fixed flow (135 lph if stock) and manages pressure with a vacuum referenced mechanical regulator. Fuel delivery is managed by the PCM by referencing the MAF, ECT, IAT, Throttle angle, load calc, and finally O2 sensors. Any of those things out of range could cause a rich issue. The first step is to verify the rich condition, a proper wideband is helpful, but OBD 1 codes can get you started. Hopefully this helps you along. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Darren
Thanks for the video! I have a 2000 GT and it's been 3 years running weird (power loss) intermittent issues, car feels extremely sluggish in the summer but improves in the winter. No codes at all, I am sick and tired of this car because no mechanic can figure it out (including the dealer) so I ended up reading about this CCRM but now I see that you think that this part is not the issue! I've replace many parts including the fuel pump and no change. Any suggestions about CCRM test?
hi! GTC i have a question related to what i just watched, when you opened the CCRM you pointed to 3 relays right,, and said that one of them is for the fan ok,,, well i have a mustang gt 1994 5.0..and fan is not working ok,, i had check fusses,all good,, and the fun works when i connected straight to battery ok,, but i have no power trough harnesses,, and from what you just explained my problem will be one of those relays inside the CCRM,, ok ,, can you please tell me where can i get that part and number of it?? please any help will be great because summer is coming to californiA and i like to fix it before get`s here ok well thanks in advance
I had same issue a few months ago, and this shop charged me 400$. And I didn't even get a new pcm, or even. Did I get ripped off?? Please respond to this. I have to take it to him tomorrow.
Hi Joseph, I am glad you found the video helpful but, to cover your question, it is quite difficult to assess your issue without knowing the whole story. May with a few more details I might be able to suggest what I would check. -Darren
that being the case i could just delete the ccrm and put in my own fuel pump relay setup?(i no longer have AC and my fans are no longer stock running to a different setup)
I ran this idea past our Technical Advisor, Ted Jenkins of Tuning Innovations and he said it's not quite that simple, there is also a relay for the PCM that must be accounted for and a few other details. He had recently builit a setup to run without a CCRM for diagnostic testing and said really it's more trouble than it's worth to simply replace a factory packaged module with a homebuilt cluster of relays and wires. It's best to keep it OEM. Thanks for viewing and commenting! - Darren
Hello would this apply to a 1996 GT as well…I would appreciate a quick Y or N please? I’m having fuel pressure issues (replaced fuel pump, filter, power exists at plug in going to pump-getting almost zero PSI at fuel port).
This would apply to a 96 GT, but if you have power at the pump, the CCRM is not your problem. If you have steady 12V at the pump, I would look for a flow restriction like a pinched hard line, and ensure you have flow at the rail. This should be a fairly direct issue to find. Best of Luck! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts I’m calling this one fixed and it WAS the CCRM. I went to a junkyard and found a rusty $14 dollar one and replaced my old one and now it’s running great. I haven’t even test drove it but it’s reading 30 PSI now on the same gauge that read about 0 PSI last week (and was reading 30 PSI on my good running 4.6 Lincoln Town Car). If you want my old one to study you can have it (you ship). I’m sure you are usually correct about these. Of course I suppose there could be a 3rd problem that could be intermittent and somehow effects the pressure that just happened to go away the second I replaced the CCRM…but I doubt it.
Took it for a test drive. Still hesitating and stalling. 😖I’m starting to suspect a short-why? I noticed my speedometer would occasionally drop to zero when I was moving (at a good speed). Going to try your suggestion of checking fuel flow at different points, but doesn’t see how that would cause the speedo to fail intermittently.
So I pulled codes on my 94 and I got 542 543 564 and my car runs but the check engine light come and so I check the codes oh and the fan works not sure about high and low but it works so any help would greatly appreciated
I don’t know if anyone comments on here anymore, I have a 94 302 Mustang and currently the car runs HOT. I’ve replaced the fan but it seems that wasn’t the problem(High power fan kicks on but doesn’t drop passed the R in the word Normal on temp gauge). Code 556 (fuel pump relay) pops up hence why I’m here. My mechanic says my timing cover gasket is bad and that’s where I’m leaking.. does that sound reasonable? I’m not sure if anyone has had a similar problem please comment! Thanks
I have a problem with fuel in my 96 mustang GT. I have power at the 20a fuse in the box then no power at the inertia switch. Went to the ccrm and I have no power at pin 5 for fuel output. I'm guessing the relay is bad inside? Any help would be greatly appreciated
I’m having the exact same problem. My 1996 GT is showing almost ZERO pressure on a fuel gauge. Runs poorly and dies, press on pedal and it stalls then suddenly zooms to life. New fuel pump, new filter, getting power to inertia switch (because it works and engine dies) and tested for voltage at plug near rear of car, guesses OK,) I’m stumped..Did you find a fix? Thanks for a reply.
Help. Have a 2000 yt? Cranks no start fuel pump getting power but no fuel going I to injector theft light rapid flashing is this a key issue. All grounds are good but key won't reset theft system
Would a bad one be the cause of a voltage drop when accessories are turned on? I changed my alternator, cleaned and checked my grounds, and cleaned and checked all power cables.
It's not likely, how much of a drop? Some is normal. For example with underdrive pulleys my car I was 13.7v unloaded and 12.5v loaded at idle. Where is yours at?
Grand Touring Concepts if I run my vents on high and my radiator fan is on at the same time it would drop between 11-11.3 volts when using it for more than 10 minuets. When running my highlights and stereo is going, I seen it low as 10.7 volts on a volt meter. When there’s nothing, just the engine, it’s at 14.4.
That is certainly too low for sure. I would verify that you do not have underdrive pullies, if you do, you may have to consider reverting to stock. If your pulleys are already stock, I would retest the voltage drop at 2,000 rpm it should be much better there. It is also a good idea to have the battery tested, it might be in need of replacement, but verify first. Your charging system should easily handle all accessories so something is up. If all that checks out maybe it's time to pin point loads circuit by circuit, or consider a higher amperage alternator.
Grand Touring Concepts everything is all stock. I did change the alternator and battery. So I kinda hit a brick wall. I did though do a one wire conversion and it did help.
My man hope you can help me do.you think a bad ccrm can cause a Rich condition?? Getting 60+ psi fuel.pressure but only after warm up condition..I tried fuel new fuel pump fpdm and injectors
i have a 95 mustang,alot of times the first start up in the morning the car will start and stall once or seem to start but doesnt,its does it once,ive noticed that i do not here the fuel pump running when i first turn the key on,is their another fuel pump relay that could be sticking
Please help lol I'm having a code Error Code P1233 is defined as Fuel Pump Driver Module Disabled Or Off Line. It shudders/hesitates sometimes when I turn it on/drive it sometimes. I have reset the inertia switch, replaced the fuel pump driver module and the shop told me the next step is to replace my CCRM but after the myth video I saw of yours I'm starting to question what they said... I'm at a loss and would love to know any and all opinions!
Antonio Martinez yeah man it turned out to be one of my spark plug wires was sitting on a hot area of my motor and burned a hole through it causing the engine to misfire. It was kicking up sparks and everything I just didn’t see it because it was down by the 6th spark plug.
Ok.. I watched a lot of videos on it android could not figure out why my fan was not coming on In my 95 Cobra. I of course traced it to this video thinking possibly it was my ccrm was the problem. I paid a shop to change water pump and thermastat. They put thermastat in backwards . Thermastat got stuck.could that at all affect my computer or ccrm telling my fan to turn on??
Is there any channel like this for the 4.6 instead of the 5.0? I have a 97 Cobra first time owing a mustang and have encountered a lot of issues from the jump. Any help is welcome
Not that I am aware, but we do have a whole new season for 2019 and plan to work into Modular specific stuff. Thsnks for watching and commenting! - Darren
Also on my 1994 cobra installed a high volume water pump 3 row aluminum radiator 160 thermostat and it even gets hotter now than before. Was thinking of replacing fan, what do you all think.
Even with a lower temp thermostat and bigger radiator, the temperature that the fan turns on wouldn't change without tuning the ECM. It's entirely possible that's where your issue is; I could see a fan short cycling with such a low temp thermostat.
@@mn12sc35th thanks for the reply, took it back to mechanic shop they had left the hoses loose. Now it's running cooler but would like for it to be in the middle. Now it's in the m of normal before it was at a.
@@elroybazan3971 that's lame, but at least they sorted it out (and it sounded easy). That's about where my 4.6 runs with a 180º thermostat, but I'm told the 4.6 likes it a little warmer than the 5.0
NA 4.6L cars do in fact make best power when at 190-200°F engine coolant temp. We unwittingly discovered this on the dyno with a modded 2002 Mustang GT we had in the project years ago. All great conversation gents! - Darren
i took the engine cooling responsibility away from the car and added a fan controller. the computer wanted to turn the fan on at like 221 degrees if i remember correctly...that was way too high for my mods and the area i live in
I have an issue with my 94 gt the fan will only kick on when the coolant temp sensor is unhooked I also have a poor idle maybe two different issues but the fan is a main concern any ideas???
Had same issue with mine, your coolant temp sensor is going to crap, also look at putting in an aftermarket electric fan and also replacing the ccrm with a new unit if at all possible as another precaution...in 94-95gt’s the fan connector can get too hot because of the bearings going bad in the fan which are right near the connector and that can also cause issues to the ccrm which in turn can cause issues to the engine coolant temperature sensor
The CCRM is specific to cars that are 1994 and up, and are controlled by the engine computer. It is unlikely that a Fox computer could be modified to run a CCRM, but if the entire engine harness and computer from a 1994 or newer car were used, it could be made to work. Depending on what you are planning, it is probably simpler and more affordable to source a stand alone fan controller from the aftermarket. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Darren
This is certainly the CCRM, and does not have anything to do with transmission control, it is literally just the fuel pump relay, and two cooling fan relays in a enclosure. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
Can you not replace the relays with generic ones? are there pins or are they soldered to the board? im not getting power to my fuel pump and all my fuses are good and am trying to replace my fuel pump relay
I would think you could certainly desolder the old relay and install a new one that matched the old relay for amps and pin out. They are just Bosch pieces and should be available. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren.
Hi Nick, there would be a few things I would check before changinging the CCRM based on what you've found. I would have try running direct power to the HS connector of the fan to ensure both speeds work. Then I would inspect the fan connector for damage. If that is all good, check for voltage on the HS circuit, at the connector. You should be able to force the HS fan by using a jumper on the self test connector found underhood for reading codes. When you cycle the key it will trigger the fan, both LS then HS. After that I would do the same test at the CCRM harness, you can find a pinout diagram at the link in the description box of the video. If none of those tests show the problem, I would consider replacing the CCRM. Does that get you started? Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts Yes, this gets me started, thanks very much! As far as the fan connector damage is concerned, that's sort of where all this started. When the car first had over heating problems I had a burnt pin on the connector. I replaced it without doing the research or reading the sellers website enough to see the suggestion of changing the fan motor along with it. So I burnt through that connector and replaced it along with the fan motor. Ever since then it seems like the cooling is really inconsistent, I'm willing to believe I've made a loose connection in the fan harness but I've worked in an electronic technician capacity for years, and I can crimp barrel connectors properly. Being able to trigger a HS speed signal with a jumper on the self test connector will be really useful. Since I have your attention, I bought the car in Virginia Beach, VA and have since moved south, to a much hotter and more humid environment. The previous owner had made some upgrades, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know by just looking: how can I tell if the water pump has an underdrive pulley on it? Can I measure it without taking anything apart? Either way thanks for the response, this channel is exactly what I need for what I'm trying to do, you guys are awesome!
HI Nick, you can usually determine if you have underdrive pulleys visually, or measuring. The stock stuff should all have Ford logos and PN's somewhere on them. Since youtube comments make it difficult to share photos you could hit us up on our facebook page and I can share some OE pulley photos for you to reference. Overall it sounds like you might be chasing a little larger problem, and it might be something like the fan motor is simply due for replacement. You are certainly tackling this in the right way, methodical checking, ahead of throwing the whole kitchen sink of parts at it blindly.
¿Qué problemas tienes? ¿Los ventiladores de encendido, combustible y refrigeración no funcionan? Quizás consulte nuestras listas de reproducción de videos y es posible que ya tengamos algo. La mejor de las suertes - Darren
Has anyone ever had problems with the fuel pump coming on with the engine off and ignition off. Not much on the internet about the problems I’m having. I’m not sure if it’s the CCRM or if Im have a ignition problem.
Nope it actually had nothing to do with the fuel pump. My ignition was messed up allowing it to turn back to auxiliary and allowing the dam CD changer in the truck to come on.
This video needs more likes and views, great info and spot on
The key thing about the CCRM is that it highlights how poorly designed our cars are, they really are a parts shelf special - why put the relays that control some of the cars critical functions in the most vulnerable place in the car, all together in a single unit, and in the least efficient place for the wiring where it takes the longest possible route from the engine bay, to the ccrm, into the cabin, then back to the engine bay, then back through the cabin again all the way to the back of the car!
can u find me a wiring diagram for how the wires are run please
Hello I'm trying to diagnose my friend 1994 mustang gt , the fuel pump is not getting power, it doesn't make any sound at all, we changed the pump twice, fuel pump fuse is good , I'm suspecting this part, cab I use a test light on pin number 5 to check for power to the pump?
If it checks out ok, what else should I look for?
@@mr.selfdestruct1677 what’s was it ????
You are spot on in your assessment of these relays. They are pretty much indestructible. However in time the contacts lose there “follow”. That is the ability of the two contact surfaces to “Rub” against each other as they break connection”. This causes a tit to form on one contact and a pit to form on the other from the arc of electricity upon a set of contacts that have no follow. Latching contacts like this lead to circuits associated with that contact not being able to cut off. As an electronics technician with telephone switching our relays were accessible and a burnishing to would knock the tit of and then a spring bender to adjust the two contacts back to where “Follow” is there to prevent pitting upon release
On some models like my 95 Mustangs GT the CCRM also controls the A/C compressor clutch. On mine everything else worked properly but the compressor clutch would not engage. After closer inspection of the CCRM I found that the connector on the module was cracked and the relay for the compressor clutch wasn’t functioning so I replaced the CCRM which corrected the issue.
If I'm not mistaken the little relay controls ac clutch kicking on. Great video
My AC clutch wouldn't turn on in my '98, went to the junkyard and got one and started working again. Kind of crazy how a small box can cause a number of potential issues.
Glad I seen this my ac clutch just quit working. AC was fine one day now no clutch. What size socket do you need to remove the box?
I don't remember, but what I can tell you is it's metric and more than likely an 8 or 10mm. Just go to your junkyard and find one off around your year mustang. I pulled mine off either a 97 or 98, I tend to like to get parts from the same year, because components may have changed from year to year.
You need a 11mm for the two nuts holding the ccrm bracket to the car. A 5mm socket or wrench to remove the tiny bolt from the ccrm connector.
This would be for a mustang
it might be the small relay in the corner of the box . drill out the rivets an open the ccrm an check the back of the board for burnt solder . the relay itself is cheap an a experienced phone / electronic repair shop can solder new relay in if your not to good at soldering .. but i would check fuses an everything out before looking at the ccrm . .
Thank you for this!
Would love to see some more advice and content from you guys on SN95's. I have watched all of your videos.
I sought advice for my poorly running 95 GTS. After lengthy discussion online, they said to replace the CCRM ….
Meanwhile, the fuel pump is working fine - 35 to 39 PSI while running… I replaced the distributor, coil, TFI, plugs, and wires. Did a smoke vacuum test- no problems there ….Car is still running very badly.
I’m not sure what is causing the problems … Tomorrow, I am going to pull the ECU and check those capacitors
I know this a late comment but before I bought this or thought of taking it out I checked the connector going to the radiator fan. The points on the connector tend to corrode or loosen over time. So move it around and see if the fan cuts in and out.
Thank you for these videos! I really want to buy a sn95 but I don’t know much about cars! These help out a lot ! Thanks bro!!
Me and dad collected all the older books. Wish I was there when he passed
informative, but got here looking for why my PCM (I think) has no power - maybe that's what the smaller module/relay controls. fuel pump and fan run with key on - I assume these relays are closed with no input. 95 Taurus been running great for 25 years (just turned over 100k miles). Biggest thing I learned is how great the Ford factory manual is (I need the wiring diagrams), and that it's no big deal drilling the rivets that hold the PC board on - will look for cold solder joints if comes to that (fixed several electronic modules with broken solder joints). Thanks for uploading this.
I replaced my ccrm to fix fan no spin. I'm going to replace the bad relay on the old one as a spare and for trouble shooting in the future. ALso goo to take with on long trips.
So when you mention checking for voltage output from the CCRM, how do you actually go about doing that? I've checked for voltage output coming from the fuel pump fuse in the power distribution box, and got no voltage. I also noticed the fuse slot for the Fan was getting 0 voltage. My AC system was not working either. Is there somewhere else I can do this check?
Very well presented my friend. You have a new subscriber!
Thank you very much, subscriptions are great way of letting us know you are enjoying the content. - Darren
I have a 95 gt and my car was not shifting out of overdrive, stalling out, getting horrible fuel mileage. My problem was the ECU computer which controls the motor and transmission according to Ford. I thought it was my distributor but I was wrong. But what your car was doing sounds like a distributor issue. Good video
Can you explain your issues more in depth. I also have a 95 gt auto and am going through gas very bad and also the cars surges if not stalls when i shift to reverse or drive when the car is up to temp. Please and thank you.
I wish your shop was closer to where I live. SN95 owner.
Yo Dude, you fucking rock!!! Love you for sharing this info,. I have no fuel purge in my 97mustang 6cylinder. Now I need to get it fixed. But you gave me clarity on my issue big time.
Have a 98 mustang GT first the AC stopped working, then the fan, then the fuel pump... I'm fairly certain it's the CCRM because it controls all of those... the only plus side is I sold the car about a year ago and told the new buyer the problem. He just hot wired the fan then sold the car.... fast forward to yesterday when I I found the car for sale again and brought it back home!
Im having a similar issue on my 98 mark viii LSC where I have no fuel pressure and no fans. All fuses checked out and the inertia switch has continuity because I suspected it first. I know it's not good for the 4.6 but I removed the air cleaner and shot a small amount of starter fluid in the throttle body. It starts and sputters but does run for a few seconds. I've also replaced the fuel filter and found someone from the previous owner jacked it up under the fuel line(s - return and evap). I have scabbed in new 5/16 vinyl from before the pinch, up the wheel well and onto the filter. Yes, it was a huge pia but I got to use my flaring set and heat gun. I'm about to remove the rest of the fender liner and check out the CCRM/VCRM but, as a hardware Engineer, I refuse to replace the entire unit until I screw this one up beyond repair. I have all the components to essentially rebuild the whole thing in my collection as I type this.
My car was running and suddenly died. (no fuel priming sound like usual)
Fuel pump works when connected directly to battery.
Fuse is good.
I will be looking for ground issues and possibly open the CCRM(even though i still hear it click)
Take a look at the diagrams in this link on our website and check for 12V power on pin#5 with the Key on:
gtconcepts.ca/main/index.php/2018/12/03/mustang-ccrm-all-you-need-to-know-with-diagrams/
Hopefully this gets you on the path to a repair! - Darren
check the vacuum hoses that may be rotten and need to be replace i had same problem and it was a hose that goes form outside to inside top of engine very unreachable and needs to remove top engine to reach them if you have a mustang 94 and up ,,,hope this help you ,, because vacuum hoses can give you a real headache for just a simple thing so small
@@janatono it was a major ground short. I didnt want to tear apart the car to find it so i hardwired it .
UnTamed Mustang I have experienced a short in replaced stereo when pressing any button. I’m considering now that may have contributed to a damaged CCRM, if it turns out I have a grounding problem in the electrical system! I have recently had to replace driver side window motor and door lock actuator. I need to run down the cause before anything else is burned up!
I have about 15 of them every time I go to the junkyard I get one lol. Put yours in the fender like new Newedge units.
AAD sell me two, lol.
why dont you let others who need them buy them?
I'm actually having a similar issue with my GT not starting and thats actually how i got here, and after watching now i want to know how you fixed your issue with the bogging down and stalling out. I was actually about to go out tomorrow and buy one to replace it, but now im not so certain that it would be a good idea since the issue with your car sounds quite similar to mine.
Like he said, they either work or they don't. The 3 relays control the fan, fuel pump and AC Compressor Clutch; if your fan turns on (high and low speed), your AC comes on, and you have good fuel pressure, the CCRM is not your issue.
Thank you very much for the video! When running high volume fuel pump does it make sense to bypass the fuel pump relay in the CCRM and install a new relay and heavy duty wiring? I see this done on older foxbody that don't have the CCRM.
It could certainly be done, but it would be a matter of determining if it is actually necessary. The main factor would be the amps draw of the new pump system, for example my own car has a Walbro HO 255 LPH pump to feed my supercharger and it has been running perfectly on the OE CCRM system since 2005. If you have something larger, take a look at the spec sheet and see what it would require. Chances are, if it is too much for the CCRM, it is too much for the power supply wiring as well and would need an upgrade in that area to match. If you did all that the CCRM fuel pump output could still serve as the trigger for the new relay and system. Thanks for watching and commetning! - Darren
My issue with intermittent fuel delivery in my 95" cobra , was the "PICK-UP MODULE" . inside the bottom floor of my distributor .... went defective..
i noticed a smaller relay , behind the larger 3 . you didn't mention it.
My AC wasn't working and it wound up being the Ccrm.. I've had a lot of SN95s and this was a first time
Sounds like you got it figured out though! This video is mainly a myth debunker to help those who are chasing ignition problems and are misled to the CCRM by internet lore. Thanks for commenting and glad to hear you're keeping another SN95 on the road! - Darren
What were the other causes for your ac not kicking on
I ran into this problem about a year ago. My fan stopped spinning all of a sudden. So, I changed both temp sensors and it didn't worked of course. So, I started digging around and found out about the ccrm problem. I was tight on money at the time so I tested the fan and the fan was good. I straight wired it to a toggle switch and for the most part it's still working. What I'm wondering now is if it's only working on low speed. I live in Texas and it gets pretty hot. Just today, my temp gauge went up to the A in normal but to me, that's too close for comfort in the overheating department. How do I go by testing the fan if it's only working on low speed?
Im in the exact same boat right now in my 2003 v6 mustang, I cannot for the life of me figure out why my fan won’t come on. I’ve replaced the sensors, checked the fuses and tested the fan, it runs perfect. I wish I could check if its the ccrm before dropping $200 replacing it
I got a 97 cobra that I just can’t get the fans to stay on. I directly got wired the low speed wire to the battery and still it won’t turn on I’m completely lost not sure why or if replacing my ccrm will help that if my wiring it straight to my battery isn’t working
I've seen a number with bad solder joints. The relays themselves are good, just poorly soldered
I like that answer!
Very informative breakdown of the CCRM., having trouble finding information on a 2000 v6 mustang, really appreciate any help finding wiring diagrams with plug & pin identification of the instrument cluster and in and out of the PCM., thanks, hope you can help, have tried searching forums and have gotten no help.
Luckily, the factory service manuals are available from a number of sources online as a .pdf Run a quick google for 2000 Mustang FSM and you should be able to get a digital copy for very little cash. The FSM is the real treasure for doing electrical, and combined with the EVTM (google it) there is very little that cannot be solved. Best of Luck, and Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
I don't have any power at all to my fan , the car will get hot setting at idle without the fan ever coming on. Do you have any suggestions ?
I would love to have that book I have a 94 5.0 that I'm rebuilding and iv had these issues
I think a lot most of the times all electrical connections need to be separated and cleaned out and snapped back together but they are so small so I am looking for a very small cleaning kit and I will separate all the connectors on my 04 mustang GT automatic dark shadow gray and clean them and snap them back together same as cleaning the battery cables
Does a bad ccrm prevents a car from being sluggish? I cannot done a burn out, basically. I had smoke from exhaust, delay start ups, and sounds coming from engine bay and feul pump area.
Those symptoms are not something usually related to a CCRM. This sounds like diagnostics into the ignition and fuel system are required. A general tune up and/or compression testing is a great place to start. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
After all of a sudden I got it to crank and turn over but the car turns on and intimately dies off . It stays on if I push the accelerator only I let go of accelerator and dies . Checked under dash fuses and ok except like 2 or 3 of them I put new ones on . No I checked pins going into the CCRM AND ONLY LIKE 8 OF THEM HAVE POWER THE REST DONT . HELP PLS ?
Had an issue with mine where the fan was running constantly, turned out to be the ccrm high speed relay being stuck open
That is exactly the sort of failure a CCRM can produce. Did you replace the relay, or the whole CCRM?
Do you know anything about DRL module on a 1995 svt cobra? I can't seem to find it , it supposed to be under the horns on the drive side splash shield. But its not there. I don't have fog lights, horn , and side markers. I'm guessing there's a problem with this module. But I can't find it.
I've got a lot of red flags at my ccrm module, 1 my fan will constantly with the car not running and the key in the on position, 2 my anti theft light is flashing, 3 my this happens I get a crank no start as if There's no power going my fuel pump. Towed it home and it started right up and all other problems went away for. Now I don't drive that car till I figure this out.
Good series man
Thanks! We are working to get out more content as we undergo an editing hardware upgrade. - Darren
Thank you
I’m concerned about my check engine light
It comes on and off. Any suggestions?
O2 censor possibly have you looked at what codes its throwing
Fitty Tucker you can’t on those years
@@jose51oh51 Not true...o2 sensors can and should be changed when needed...I did it...they are mounted on the mid-pipe.
My ac clutch relay on my 2004 mustang i replaced with a new relay poped/blown after only two weeks of use i cannot find what causes it to blow so i can fix my ac clutch relay more permanently then 2 weeks.
Love the Canadian accent. Reminds me of the good ol trailer park boys.
I am getting a ticking noise from the ccrm, the car will not start. it almost sounds like it is shorting out. the battery cable is getting warm, as if it is shorting out.? any information or opinions would greatly be appreciated. i hope you can help me out with this.... THANK YOU!
I am trying to remove a full patch of gas from my 2002 Mustang gt. I can't siphon it due to anti siphon in the filler neck so looked on UA-cam and found that I can jump the fuel pump rely to run the fuel pump. However, because the rely is in the CCRM I need to figure out which wires in the wiring harness at the CCRM I need to access so I can do this. In my search it dawned on me that maybe I can access the wire(s) to run the fuel pump at the Inertia Switch by unplugging it and supplying 12v there. Can you please advise me on this or maybe you have a simpler way for me to drain my fuel tank where I don't need to drop the tank? Any help would be great. Thanks!
You could look at the diagram in the video description link and apply power from there, but the simple method I use, is to disconnect the fuel feed line, then cycle the key on and off to cycle the pump prime. OPen the line somewhere easy such as the fuel filter or underhood, and apply a drain to a gascan, then cycle the key, the pump will prime for 2-3 seconds, once it stops you can roll the key back to off and cycle to run again. It may take a bit of time, but I did my SVT Lighining tank this way, and the risk of damaging wiring or modules with jumpers is non existant. It's my go-to method.
Thanks for getting back to me on this. Yes, I did think of doing this but I need to drain over 14 gallons and doing it by cycling the pump would take forever to get all of it out. There is a person on UA-cam showing how on any car you can do this by jumping the fuel pump rely. He pulls the rely, installs a jumper wire on the two connectors where the switch is on the rely but as you know, I can't pull the rely as it is part of the CCRM, but, I thought maybe I could locate the two wires on the CCRM wire harness and jump it there. What I don't know is, do I also need to disconnect the other two wires as well? If I do it this way then I will set it up where I can easily access it again just in case I ever need to drain the tank again. I am looking at the wiring diagram for my 02 4.6L SOHC 2V but I don't see the fuel pump rely but when looking at the diagram for the 4.6L DOHC 4V I see it. Can I assume the wiring is the same? If so, then I think I should be able to access the RED wire and the WHITE/RED wire and jump those two. I will have a hose on the fuel rail to a can and all I should need to do is turn the key to the on position and the pump should run continually. Am I missing anything that you can think of?
I have a P0193 code and I was curious if the CCRM was the problem. But I wouldn't think that it would cause a high fuel pressure condition. The high fuel pressure is an intermittent problem though. According to my scantool info, it's most likely a bad FRPS. What say you? 2002 Mustang GT. Besides, it looks like the CCRM is discontinued.
I know this is suppper late but mine on my 2002 V6 mustang is making an extremely load buzzing noise, I’m 99% sure it is coming from the CCRM. Haven’t found much else on this. Checked all fuses and they are all good but I’m also not getting spark to my plugs.
Does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?
Good video! I have a 1994 mustang GT that sometimes has a long crank, no start issue. Sometimes car will crank but no start, usually after several attempts at cranking car will start and run fine - any ideas?
As if they don't have a more convenient place to install that part on the car, just don't want people working on the car themselves. I would relocate it so next time you want to check it it's right there under the hood.
I bet thats my problem my a/c stuck on defrost and the clutch wont go on thanks would look into that !
Hi Darren, I have a CCRM I'm trying to fix on my 94 5.0, and if you have the wiring diagrams I would love them! I was able to verify that when I give the middle leg of the pnp transistor ("solid state relay") 12v the AC clutch does engage, but somewhere on the board something failed and I'm having a tough time finding it. Any help would be appreciated!
My 01 GT fan turns on immediately, even when the engine is cold. It will turn on, turn off, turn on, turn off and so forth. I replaced the temp sensor with no luck. The internet says CCRM but your video has me questioning that. What are your thoughts?
My fans wont turn off when the key is on engine off and the car wont start at all unless the fans turn off but they randomly turn off then i can start it but instantly shuts off. Any help? 95 mustang gt
Hey I'm from Edmonton, im 351w swapping my 95 convertible. Been watching your videos then you said about and I was like he's Canadian then you showed the invoice and I had to laugh
Hi Dean! Cool to hear from another YEG area SN95 owner, thanks for watching and commenting! -Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts Happy New Years Darren
Hey boys I'm from down the road in lloydminster.got a 95 gt I'm doing here.just rewatching some videos
My 2000 mustang. Fan in on all the time. Need advice.
my 94 just started doing that and I did not have a CEL so I did the koeo and koer tests and had code 117 which is Ect sensor ground and also a few other things which I'm thinking it's because of the ground that I got the other codes. I will check voltage at the pigtail connector today and see what I get and also plan on testing then splicing in a spare pigtail connector that I have to see if that fixes it.
I came here because the only thing I haven't replaced is the CCRM, my 1995 Mustang 3.8 is starting, idles, runs shaky at 1200 rpm, won't rev up unless you floor it.
Checked and repaired vacuum leaks, spark plugs, cable, MAF sensor, TPS, fuel pump and filter, I literally replaced everything the internet came up with.
Weird thing is : no codes, no CEL ???
Anybody any idea ?? Thanks !
Well I have a problem with my 99 GT. At the moment it doesn't turn on. The starter engages but the engine doesn't run. Before this happened it had the fuel trims super high like at 20+%. Also i noticed the temps would be a bit higher because i think i notice my radiator fan wasn't going Into high speed mode. Also out of nowhere my ac did not work anymore, slowly the clutch would keep engaging/disengaging until now. I dont know if that's a freon issue since I had the mechanic put a new compressor in. Anyway the other day I tried to turn it on and the car would only crank. It had a bit low fuel below 1/4th so I added more and it still wouldn't turn on. So idk if I should suspect the ccrm or some other fuel issue? By the way only mods on it as of now are long tube headers and exhaust
@stangmaster 2 man I sold that pos gt I could never figure out why it was always running so rich
On my 04 Mustang GT, when I turn the key to run position, the fuel pressure doesn’t increase at the fuel rail. I do hear the fuel pump when I do turn the key. Psi stays around zero. When I disconnect the fpdm and connect the power wire and fuel pump wire together, the fuel pump will prime to 40psi at the fuel rail. The car takes forever to start. Over 5 seconds to start. I replaced the fpdm and still have issues. When I drive, the fuel pressure will be somewhat normal then when I punch the gas, the car runs super lean and the fuel pressure drops to about 20 psi or so. A possibility the ccrm has a bad relay?
Having all those exact same problems in my 98 gt. Replaced fuel pump and it did nothing. Could be fuel pressure regulator or leaky injectors.
Did you find out the problem of why the fuel pressure drops? I am having the same issue and I have replaced many parts and still hame the same problem.
My fuel pump and fan go on and stay on turning key but not to start changed ground wire fixed it tried it again and it was back to the same
I don’t understand how you could test to see if power was coming from the ccrm
This could be a handy setup for someone to swap in a homebrew EFI setup.
Ok i know all my o2 sensors are good but all of my codes say the heater circuits have failed my question is what could be causing this i drive a 97 mercury cougar 3.8l with 93k miles. What controls this the pcm or the sn95. Once i solve this issue car will be tip top again.
Found out its my pcm . before we bought the car the last owner had a tire blow out and she went off the road and jumped a hump. The impact caused a short in the pcm aka computer. Once i replaced the pcm the money light went out and the car started running almost like new. Now im rebuilding the injection system after she will be tip top. Im doing this due to a low idle at stop signs.
Why won the my mustang stay running? It’s a 96 gt I replaced the fuel pump but after it starts it idles for literally a second then turns off and stops working
It seems as if the car gets gas for a mulinute but the relay doesn’t keep powering gas to it
I have a no mustang I have a 1995 mercury sable I’ve been trying to figure out why my fan and ac won’t work it has a 3.8 Essex in it
I have a 97 mustang gt I'm getting no voltage to the cooling fan plug every thing I've read says track back to your ccrm module my fuses are all good but the plug to the fan isn't getting any voltage so what else could be wrong if it's not the ccrm?
I would think that yours is a textbook example of a potential failed CCRM, but it is important to do all of the checks for voltage and wiring. You should be able to google and find the full diagnostic for a cooling fan and wiring to walk through before you swap that CCRM. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts thanks for the info
I had replaced the CCM a few years back when I was having fan problems after installing new PCM the fan ran again for a few years and now I am having the same issues again...I have replaced everything else again to the cooling system except the CCM, the CCM I bought was fairly cheap so I am thinking the problem could be the CCM again
perform the koeo and koer tests as trouble codes will not always show up on it's on....
I have a 94 ford mustang which is running rich . Replaced the ccrm, stopped running rich for one run . Then ignition was shut off . Turned it back on and back to running again . Did I just get lucky and the ecu is bad ?
Without proper diag. it is difficult to speculate what is causing your rich condition, but I can assure you that the CCRM has absolutely no impact on fuel mixture control. It only provides power to the pump. The return style fuel system in your 94 runs the pump at a fixed flow (135 lph if stock) and manages pressure with a vacuum referenced mechanical regulator. Fuel delivery is managed by the PCM by referencing the MAF, ECT, IAT, Throttle angle, load calc, and finally O2 sensors. Any of those things out of range could cause a rich issue.
The first step is to verify the rich condition, a proper wideband is helpful, but OBD 1 codes can get you started.
Hopefully this helps you along.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Darren
Good work
Thanks for the video! I have a 2000 GT and it's been 3 years running weird (power loss) intermittent issues, car feels extremely sluggish in the summer but improves in the winter. No codes at all, I am sick and tired of this car because no mechanic can figure it out (including the dealer) so I ended up reading about this CCRM but now I see that you think that this part is not the issue! I've replace many parts including the fuel pump and no change. Any suggestions about CCRM test?
Similar issue except mine is more than weird. It has almost zero Fuel pressure on a gauge-put in new pump, filter etc.
Not sure where to go now.
Oh mine is a 96 GT
hi! GTC i have a question related to what i just watched, when you opened the CCRM you pointed to 3 relays right,, and said that one of them is for the fan ok,,, well i have a mustang gt 1994 5.0..and fan is not working ok,, i had check fusses,all good,, and the fun works when i connected straight to battery ok,, but i have no power trough harnesses,, and from what you just explained my problem will be one of those relays inside the CCRM,, ok ,, can you please tell me where can i get that part and number of it?? please any help will be great because summer is coming to californiA and i like to fix it before get`s here ok well thanks in advance
I had same issue a few months ago, and this shop charged me 400$. And I didn't even get a new pcm, or even. Did I get ripped off?? Please respond to this. I have to take it to him tomorrow.
Hi Joseph, I am glad you found the video helpful but, to cover your question, it is quite difficult to assess your issue without knowing the whole story. May with a few more details I might be able to suggest what I would check. -Darren
that being the case i could just delete the ccrm and put in my own fuel pump relay setup?(i no longer have AC and my fans are no longer stock running to a different setup)
I ran this idea past our Technical Advisor, Ted Jenkins of Tuning Innovations and he said it's not quite that simple, there is also a relay for the PCM that must be accounted for and a few other details. He had recently builit a setup to run without a CCRM for diagnostic testing and said really it's more trouble than it's worth to simply replace a factory packaged module with a homebuilt cluster of relays and wires. It's best to keep it OEM. Thanks for viewing and commenting! - Darren
Hello would this apply to a 1996 GT as well…I would appreciate a quick Y or N please?
I’m having fuel pressure issues (replaced fuel pump, filter, power exists at plug in going to pump-getting almost zero PSI at fuel port).
This would apply to a 96 GT, but if you have power at the pump, the CCRM is not your problem. If you have steady 12V at the pump, I would look for a flow restriction like a pinched hard line, and ensure you have flow at the rail. This should be a fairly direct issue to find. Best of Luck! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts I’m calling this one fixed and it WAS the CCRM. I went to a junkyard and found a rusty $14 dollar one and replaced my old one and now it’s running great. I haven’t even test drove it but it’s reading 30 PSI now on the same gauge that read about 0 PSI last week (and was reading 30 PSI on my good running 4.6 Lincoln Town Car).
If you want my old one to study you can have it (you ship). I’m sure you are usually correct about these. Of course I suppose there could be a 3rd problem that could be intermittent and somehow effects the pressure that just happened to go away the second I replaced the CCRM…but I doubt it.
Took it for a test drive. Still hesitating and stalling. 😖I’m starting to suspect a short-why? I noticed my speedometer would occasionally drop to zero when I was moving (at a good speed).
Going to try your suggestion of checking fuel flow at different points, but doesn’t see how that would cause the speedo to fail intermittently.
So I pulled codes on my 94 and I got 542 543 564 and my car runs but the check engine light come and so I check the codes oh and the fan works not sure about high and low but it works so any help would greatly appreciated
I don’t know if anyone comments on here anymore, I have a 94 302 Mustang and currently the car runs HOT. I’ve replaced the fan but it seems that wasn’t the problem(High power fan kicks on but doesn’t drop passed the R in the word Normal on temp gauge). Code 556 (fuel pump relay) pops up hence why I’m here. My mechanic says my timing cover gasket is bad and that’s where I’m leaking.. does that sound reasonable? I’m not sure if anyone has had a similar problem please comment! Thanks
I have a problem with fuel in my 96 mustang GT. I have power at the 20a fuse in the box then no power at the inertia switch. Went to the ccrm and I have no power at pin 5 for fuel output. I'm guessing the relay is bad inside? Any help would be greatly appreciated
I’m having the exact same problem. My 1996 GT is showing almost ZERO pressure on a fuel gauge. Runs poorly and dies, press on pedal and it stalls then suddenly zooms to life. New fuel pump, new filter, getting power to inertia switch (because it works and engine dies) and tested for voltage at plug near rear of car, guesses OK,) I’m stumped..Did you find a fix? Thanks for a reply.
Help. Have a 2000 yt? Cranks no start fuel pump getting power but no fuel going I to injector theft light rapid flashing is this a key issue. All grounds are good but key won't reset theft system
Did you ever solve this problem?
Would a bad one be the cause of a voltage drop when accessories are turned on? I changed my alternator, cleaned and checked my grounds, and cleaned and checked all power cables.
It's not likely, how much of a drop? Some is normal. For example with underdrive pulleys my car I was 13.7v unloaded and 12.5v loaded at idle. Where is yours at?
Grand Touring Concepts if I run my vents on high and my radiator fan is on at the same time it would drop between 11-11.3 volts when using it for more than 10 minuets. When running my highlights and stereo is going, I seen it low as 10.7 volts on a volt meter. When there’s nothing, just the engine, it’s at 14.4.
That is certainly too low for sure. I would verify that you do not have underdrive pullies, if you do, you may have to consider reverting to stock. If your pulleys are already stock, I would retest the voltage drop at 2,000 rpm it should be much better there. It is also a good idea to have the battery tested, it might be in need of replacement, but verify first. Your charging system should easily handle all accessories so something is up. If all that checks out maybe it's time to pin point loads circuit by circuit, or consider a higher amperage alternator.
Grand Touring Concepts everything is all stock. I did change the alternator and battery. So I kinda hit a brick wall. I did though do a one wire conversion and it did help.
do you have a system in the car .. like subs amps ect?
My man hope you can help me do.you think a bad ccrm can cause a Rich condition?? Getting 60+ psi fuel.pressure but only after warm up condition..I tried fuel new fuel pump fpdm and injectors
i have a 95 mustang,alot of times the first start up in the morning the car will start and stall once or seem to start but doesnt,its does it once,ive noticed that i do not here the fuel pump running when i first turn the key on,is their another fuel pump relay that could be sticking
Please help lol
I'm having a code Error Code P1233 is defined as Fuel Pump Driver Module Disabled Or Off Line. It shudders/hesitates sometimes when I turn it on/drive it sometimes.
I have reset the inertia switch, replaced the fuel pump driver module and the shop told me the next step is to replace my CCRM but after the myth video I saw of yours I'm starting to question what they said...
I'm at a loss and would love to know any and all opinions!
what year
04 v6 3.8
@@AaronC any updates on this Aaron? I have the same issue.
Antonio Martinez yeah man it turned out to be one of my spark plug wires was sitting on a hot area of my motor and burned a hole through it causing the engine to misfire. It was kicking up sparks and everything I just didn’t see it because it was down by the 6th spark plug.
Ok.. I watched a lot of videos on it android could not figure out why my fan was not coming on In my 95 Cobra. I of course traced it to this video thinking possibly it was my ccrm was the problem. I paid a shop to change water pump and thermastat. They put thermastat in backwards . Thermastat got stuck.could that at all affect my computer or ccrm telling my fan to turn on??
The android part was a typo.. sound have said "and"
Did you get the fan not coming on problem fixed? I’m having the same issue with my 95 Cobra.
Is there any channel like this for the 4.6 instead of the 5.0? I have a 97 Cobra first time owing a mustang and have encountered a lot of issues from the jump. Any help is welcome
Not that I am aware, but we do have a whole new season for 2019 and plan to work into Modular specific stuff. Thsnks for watching and commenting! - Darren
issues like???
I have a solution. Sell your shit and get a 5 oh!!! :D
f*#k a 4 6
Does it matter if you're CCRM letter is different.i have a R on my pony and got one shipped from eBay letter Y.
Also on my 1994 cobra installed a high volume water pump 3 row aluminum radiator 160 thermostat and it even gets hotter now than before. Was thinking of replacing fan, what do you all think.
Even with a lower temp thermostat and bigger radiator, the temperature that the fan turns on wouldn't change without tuning the ECM. It's entirely possible that's where your issue is; I could see a fan short cycling with such a low temp thermostat.
@@mn12sc35th thanks for the reply, took it back to mechanic shop they had left the hoses loose. Now it's running cooler but would like for it to be in the middle. Now it's in the m of normal before it was at a.
@@elroybazan3971 that's lame, but at least they sorted it out (and it sounded easy). That's about where my 4.6 runs with a 180º thermostat, but I'm told the 4.6 likes it a little warmer than the 5.0
NA 4.6L cars do in fact make best power when at 190-200°F engine coolant temp. We unwittingly discovered this on the dyno with a modded 2002 Mustang GT we had in the project years ago. All great conversation gents! - Darren
i took the engine cooling responsibility away from the car and added a fan controller. the computer wanted to turn the fan on at like 221 degrees if i remember correctly...that was way too high for my mods and the area i live in
I have an issue with my 94 gt the fan will only kick on when the coolant temp sensor is unhooked I also have a poor idle maybe two different issues but the fan is a main concern any ideas???
Had same issue with mine, your coolant temp sensor is going to crap, also look at putting in an aftermarket electric fan and also replacing the ccrm with a new unit if at all possible as another precaution...in 94-95gt’s the fan connector can get too hot because of the bearings going bad in the fan which are right near the connector and that can also cause issues to the ccrm which in turn can cause issues to the engine coolant temperature sensor
WILL THE CCRM WORK WITH A MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND AUTOMATIC IF IM LOOKING TO BUY ONE FOR A 93 MUSTANG 4 CYLINDER ENGINE?
The CCRM is specific to cars that are 1994 and up, and are controlled by the engine computer. It is unlikely that a Fox computer could be modified to run a CCRM, but if the entire engine harness and computer from a 1994 or newer car were used, it could be made to work. Depending on what you are planning, it is probably simpler and more affordable to source a stand alone fan controller from the aftermarket. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Darren
thought it was the transmission control box... regarding solenoid activation.
This is certainly the CCRM, and does not have anything to do with transmission control, it is literally just the fuel pump relay, and two cooling fan relays in a enclosure. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
Can you not replace the relays with generic ones? are there pins or are they soldered to the board? im not getting power to my fuel pump and all my fuses are good and am trying to replace my fuel pump relay
I would think you could certainly desolder the old relay and install a new one that matched the old relay for amps and pin out. They are just Bosch pieces and should be available. Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren.
What do you suggest when the circuit board is burned?
In that case, the best route is replacement, or seeking professional repair services.
I opened my CCRM it's a type S and looks different internally. There is no middle Relay and it's layed out differently.
So if my 95 Mustang GT has low speed fan, but no high speed, could it be something other than the CCRM?
Hi Nick, there would be a few things I would check before changinging the CCRM based on what you've found. I would have try running direct power to the HS connector of the fan to ensure both speeds work. Then I would inspect the fan connector for damage. If that is all good, check for voltage on the HS circuit, at the connector. You should be able to force the HS fan by using a jumper on the self test connector found underhood for reading codes. When you cycle the key it will trigger the fan, both LS then HS. After that I would do the same test at the CCRM harness, you can find a pinout diagram at the link in the description box of the video. If none of those tests show the problem, I would consider replacing the CCRM. Does that get you started? Thanks for watching and commenting! - Darren
@@GrandTouringConcepts Yes, this gets me started, thanks very much! As far as the fan connector damage is concerned, that's sort of where all this started. When the car first had over heating problems I had a burnt pin on the connector. I replaced it without doing the research or reading the sellers website enough to see the suggestion of changing the fan motor along with it. So I burnt through that connector and replaced it along with the fan motor. Ever since then it seems like the cooling is really inconsistent, I'm willing to believe I've made a loose connection in the fan harness but I've worked in an electronic technician capacity for years, and I can crimp barrel connectors properly. Being able to trigger a HS speed signal with a jumper on the self test connector will be really useful. Since I have your attention, I bought the car in Virginia Beach, VA and have since moved south, to a much hotter and more humid environment. The previous owner had made some upgrades, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to know by just looking: how can I tell if the water pump has an underdrive pulley on it? Can I measure it without taking anything apart? Either way thanks for the response, this channel is exactly what I need for what I'm trying to do, you guys are awesome!
HI Nick, you can usually determine if you have underdrive pulleys visually, or measuring. The stock stuff should all have Ford logos and PN's somewhere on them. Since youtube comments make it difficult to share photos you could hit us up on our facebook page and I can share some OE pulley photos for you to reference. Overall it sounds like you might be chasing a little larger problem, and it might be something like the fan motor is simply due for replacement. You are certainly tackling this in the right way, methodical checking, ahead of throwing the whole kitchen sink of parts at it blindly.
Would anyone know what’s the letter mean like Y, B
only think i worry with the one in my 96 is the ac relay i think its bad gonna order a new relay an have it soldered in
I’m getting code 212&556 on my 95 gt-5.0l
Necesito q me ayudes por que tengo esos mismo.problemas en el sn gt 1994 mustang
¿Qué problemas tienes? ¿Los ventiladores de encendido, combustible y refrigeración no funcionan? Quizás consulte nuestras listas de reproducción de videos y es posible que ya tengamos algo. La mejor de las suertes - Darren
fans didnt work but my fuel was fine opened up ccrm then discovered that the board and resistors for the fan was burnt
Has anyone ever had problems with the fuel pump coming on with the engine off and ignition off. Not much on the internet about the problems I’m having. I’m not sure if it’s the CCRM or if Im have a ignition problem.
you have rats in your car
Nope it actually had nothing to do with the fuel pump. My ignition was messed up allowing it to turn back to auxiliary and allowing the dam CD changer in the truck to come on.
Tankyou so much buddy 👍🏻 you gotit👍🏻💯
My CCRM relays whin really loud and no fuel at all. So I think I’ll change it
What would cause one of these to melt down it happened to me when it happened car died
Huh, treasure hunting in the dumpster..... my man!!! Lol
Now that's some Mustang dedication!
@@fwh79FOXR6 42
My ac compressor don't turn on and the mechanic is telling me that it's a ccrm problem