Decent points. Just remember folks, hood adjustment isn't going to fix everything. If your bike is the wrong size, or the geometry is too aggressive for cycling ability, there's going to be more issues you need to address. Cheers from NorCal. Sub'd.
In all of the hundreds of bike fit videos I have watched, you are right, no one has talked about this fitment need. Your analogy of let the hood come to your hand, not your hand to the hood, is a good one. As soon as you started mentioning your wrist angles and issues, I looked over at one of my bikes and see that my control hoods are way down on the bar like they came from the factory. Now I know why I dont usually use the hoods for position very often. They are placed wrong and too difficult to get comfortable. It seems so obvious of a consideration, yet so under stated that many people do not know of the importance. Now, I have some work to do and bar tape to buy. I will also now be watching for hood placement on other bikes, both on the road locally and in youtube videos. Thank you so very much for taking the time and efforts to put this very well made video up for us to learn from.
Excellent. Very useful info. I've just swapped by stock bar for a Surly Truck Stop bar, and getting the angles just right has been bit of a faff-a-thon. I more or less came to the same conclusion, but it's nice to have one's hypothesis confirmed. Next step -- I need to learn how to wrap a drop bar. My first few attempts have been real ugly! Cheers
Completely agree, also I find tilting the hoods inward just a bit makes it more comfortable too. Check out how your hands are when you reach them forward, the thumb is not straight up but at an small angle. I'm not talking about the angle pros are using much less.
Fantastic advice. I've been riding for 10+ yrs and never bothered or knew to look at this. My hands/wrists are now 1000% better. No more numb arms after longer rides!
I thought I bought a big frame. But my hood were little more down . I put it up like yours and reach is mych better now. I hope it will make it comfortable .
This is really good video, I appreciate it!! So the handlebars should be paralel with ground, that means the little plane ( after the little plane are handelbars curved) shuld be horinzontal - paralel with ground?? Thank you very much for somebody´s answer!
@@ravisvatturi i tend to disagree. it depends on the style your bar is wrapped. the double 8 loop done most of the time will restrict the movement after wrapping a lot. if you don't have the double 8 but the up-over-around version with the little spacer tape in between you have some degree of freedom. it also depends on the type of tape. if yours has adhesive on it then its a one time use only. if it hase some rubber stuff on it then you can re-wrap it and it also slides on the bar a bit
Any idea, what's the effect of hood position regards front hub on manouverability? I think farther (towards the front) the hood from front hubb, more difficulty in maneuvering the bike.
Yeah nice but, on the other hand, the dip between the handlebar and the hood provides space for your hand and allows to rest your forearms on the handlebar when holding the hoods by the forward protrusions with your elbows at 90 degrees.
I ride bullhorns.sometimes i had the feeling all the weight of my body goes in in other place instead the handlebar. Is my set up too high?or my saddle is too low? Or that's the way supposed to be? Thanks
Don't forget that the bars themselves are important. Way too many people are riding on stock 420 mm bars when 400's are a much better fit. If you can fit your shoulders in between the ends of the drops (on a standard ~10° flare), your bars are too wide.
Swap the frame for a smaller one. It is always better to ride a frame that is a little too small and then get the perfect size with longer stems than what you are trying to do
Isn’t the most natural position of the hand would be raising your arms in front of you and the palms is facing the floor. I noticed that you twisted your arm when you reaching forward. The twisting of the arm would not be a natural/ relaxed position. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I’m here to educate myself. Keep up the great content
I think you are right, but thanks what the flat part of the bars is for. Also for climbs, at least for me, its more comfortable on my wrist to twist and have my weight on it when my knuckles are lined n/s instead of e/w specially if I’m standing
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Honestly, if you have hand and wrist issues you are putting too much weight into your hands and bars. You don’t ever need to white knuckle your hands on the bars.
Decent points. Just remember folks, hood adjustment isn't going to fix everything. If your bike is the wrong size, or the geometry is too aggressive for cycling ability, there's going to be more issues you need to address. Cheers from NorCal. Sub'd.
In all of the hundreds of bike fit videos I have watched, you are right, no one has talked about this fitment need. Your analogy of let the hood come to your hand, not your hand to the hood, is a good one.
As soon as you started mentioning your wrist angles and issues, I looked over at one of my bikes and see that my control hoods are way down on the bar like they came from the factory. Now I know why I dont usually use the hoods for position very often. They are placed wrong and too difficult to get comfortable.
It seems so obvious of a consideration, yet so under stated that many people do not know of the importance. Now, I have some work to do and bar tape to buy. I will also now be watching for hood placement on other bikes, both on the road locally and in youtube videos.
Thank you so very much for taking the time and efforts to put this very well made video up for us to learn from.
Excellent. Very useful info. I've just swapped by stock bar for a Surly Truck Stop bar, and getting the angles just right has been bit of a faff-a-thon.
I more or less came to the same conclusion, but it's nice to have one's hypothesis confirmed.
Next step -- I need to learn how to wrap a drop bar. My first few attempts have been real ugly!
Cheers
Completely agree, also I find tilting the hoods inward just a bit makes it more comfortable too. Check out how your hands are when you reach them forward, the thumb is not straight up but at an small angle. I'm not talking about the angle pros are using much less.
Great video, saved in my bike set-up tips. Definitely a keeper
Fantastic advice. I've been riding for 10+ yrs and never bothered or knew to look at this. My hands/wrists are now 1000% better. No more numb arms after longer rides!
Thank you for this video. You helped me find a position where my hands are now much more comfortable.
Great video! I had a dip between my bars and the hoods. Im gonna try and fix it and see how it goes. Thanks!
Having some tingling and numbness after being off the bike for a month from surgery. Gonna try this, thanks for sharing!
What a great video and great explanation, fixed my sore hands issue because of this !
exactly... however having the bar just slight angled up is a bit more ergonomic. You then do as suggested and place the shifters flat to the bar.
Thanks for a very useful explanation.
Great video. I've always gone for the more natural approach myself. Subscribed
I thought I bought a big frame. But my hood were little more down . I put it up like yours and reach is mych better now. I hope it will make it comfortable .
would that bolt adjustment work on vintage bikes too? have a vintage Bianchi with some Shimano 600s
Appreciate about your inputs
2:17 shouldn't the bar edge/opening be 90° to the ground?
Nice video. No faff, all sense. Thank you for uploading. Cheers from India 🙏🏻👍🏼
Very good video - thank you!
This is really good video, I appreciate it!! So the handlebars should be paralel with ground, that means the little plane ( after the little plane are handelbars curved) shuld be horinzontal - paralel with ground?? Thank you very much for somebody´s answer!
Great information but also what comes with that is, correct frame size, stem length and articulation.
New to all this .. can I adjust hood position after bars are taped?
no. you have to untape the bars and adjust and then retape. not difficult.
@@ravisvatturi i tend to disagree. it depends on the style your bar is wrapped. the double 8 loop done most of the time will restrict the movement after wrapping a lot. if you don't have the double 8 but the up-over-around version with the little spacer tape in between you have some degree of freedom. it also depends on the type of tape. if yours has adhesive on it then its a one time use only. if it hase some rubber stuff on it then you can re-wrap it and it also slides on the bar a bit
this is such an underrated video
Great, practical explanation 👍
Any idea, what's the effect of hood position regards front hub on manouverability?
I think farther (towards the front) the hood from front hubb, more difficulty in maneuvering the bike.
Really great explanation and visuals!
This is Quality!! Subscribed!
Yeah nice but, on the other hand, the dip between the handlebar and the hood provides space for your hand and allows to rest your forearms on the handlebar when holding the hoods by the forward protrusions with your elbows at 90 degrees.
So, shifter placement? Unless I’m missing something, there’s not really any variability with regard to how the hood is installed.
Good points thanks
I ride bullhorns.sometimes i had the feeling all the weight of my body goes in in other place instead the handlebar.
Is my set up too high?or my saddle is too low?
Or that's the way supposed to be?
Thanks
Don't forget that the bars themselves are important.
Way too many people are riding on stock 420 mm bars when 400's are a much better fit.
If you can fit your shoulders in between the ends of the drops (on a standard ~10° flare), your bars are too wide.
Love the tips and advice!! Anyone specific you know in the Monterey Bay Area you would recommend for a fit?
Your explanation is crystal clear. What size of stem is the best that goes with M size frame?
Depends on your size as well as how you like your handling to feel on top
thank you for this video!
Great content!!!
I'd rather have the old "huge drop" from bar to hood with a quilted stem than the the modern bars on an ahead stem 15cm below the saddle by default.
superb!
Best. I purchased large frame size for 5.6 feet and using shortest stem with seat moved totally forward, still not reaching hood comfortably
Swap the frame for a smaller one.
It is always better to ride a frame that is a little too small and then get the perfect size with longer stems than what you are trying to do
Waaaay to big for you. You should be using small size frame. Exchange or return it if you still have chance.
If you use a level it should be on a roughly 9 to 10 degrees angle upward.
Great!
Thank you so much! :)
Great video
Exactly!👍
lookin' at the TdeF-riders, it looks like many had INWARD-pointing Hoods. Any opinion on that? buona fortuna! sub'd/lkd
It’s so painful when the placement is too far forwards.
Are you John Hamm's little brother?
Good advice but one thing I would like to talk to one on one is that possible??
Who is “they”?
Thanks Mr Longbeach
Isn’t the most natural position of the hand would be raising your arms in front of you and the palms is facing the floor. I noticed that you twisted your arm when you reaching forward. The twisting of the arm would not be a natural/ relaxed position. Please correct me if I’m wrong. I’m here to educate myself. Keep up the great content
I think you are right, but thanks what the flat part of the bars is for. Also for climbs, at least for me, its more comfortable on my wrist to twist and have my weight on it when my knuckles are lined n/s instead of e/w specially if I’m standing
Isnt the neutral position of the palms suppose to be facing each other.
@@diegoeleazar9154 yeah exactly
Sorry didn’t know how to word it atm
I’m enjoying the bike so far ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
Honestly, if you have hand and wrist issues you are putting too much weight into your hands and bars. You don’t ever need to white knuckle your hands on the bars.
Who is "they"? I tell this to my customers all the time.
Been doing ‘bike fit’ for past 10 years…
Position of shifters CRUCIAL…
Thank you, for there good placement demonstration!