A spirit level is an ideal tool. HOWEVER ignore the bubble, what you do is: place the level as you did then from in front of the bike by eye align the top edge of the level with the top edge of your handlebars. No need for fancy gizmo's it works 100% Dad taught it to me age 12 some 52 years ago been using this method ever since.
For toe in of the hoods once levelled (as is the modern trend) a tape measure and a fine marker pen, I use a silver sharpie pen. Put a mark with the pen atop the hoods, then measure from your top cap bolt to each dot on each hood until they are the same, and your happy with the toe in.
My friend u are a breath of fresh air and your enthusiastic approach is fantastic. Many safe miles this year. Sending best regards from the Netherlands
I always follow Campagnolo's rule - tip of brake lever even with lower surface of the drop on the bar. Easy to set-up by holding a simple straight-edge on the bar and moving the lever up/down on the bar so the tip just touches it. Easy to match the other side as well but I'll finish with the straight-edge laying across the hoods and making sure it's parallel with the handlebar top or using a level to get 'em even if the bar top has some slope or strange shaping. I'm guessing with one-piece bar/stems some will move 'em slightly up/down to get the hoods where the like 'em, but don't go crazy - they really need to mount to the properly shaped place on the bar to work properly and avoid damage to bar or lever.
Great to have you back and well! I’m looking forward to the carbon wheels videos. I’m in the market for some road bike wheels for 34mm, choice more limited.
The wheels on the way are gravel 😕. Looking forward to getting my teeth into those EliteWheels. Best shallow road wheels I’ve seen recently are the Nepest…. Refuse to take them off my summer bike. If you’re working towards a budget, look at the ICAN road range.
Now to add more complexity remember our arms, like are legs are often different lengths. Setting the hoods in the same position is a great starting point, but for perfectly set position requires knowing arm length.
Thanks for so important video! I remember how I bought my first road bike after mtb experience and, unfortunately, there was very little info about correct cockpit setup.
My fitter recommended making sure the drops are parallel to the ground for descending stability and to adjust the drops from there. Sounds sensible to me, it'll be interesting if they end up just off that straight section.
I know you said this is a non-specific set up but to make sure it suits the individual, a good tip is to roll your grip from the hoods to the top of the cockpit and back again. There should be no movement in your shoulders. If there is a height difference, the shoulders will either drop or rise to suit to the incorrect level.
Dude, I seriously don't get how can you find blue tools with blue fog of led. Also incredably annying the blue as primary background light my brain is bleeding.
Hey Jon, I believe you use the tool the wrong way. I have a similar one, but from Lebycle brand (the orange one) and I found out that once I take the measurement one of the levers as reference, the other one looks outrageously off relative to the first one, alebit at a glance it's almost even. I figured out that the sliding bracket that holds the measuring rod must be flipped if it's to be used against the second lever. I think it's because the measuring rod is held on the side of the bracket and main rod of the tool rather than underneath to be in the same axis of symmetry and because the main rod of the tool is not round but flattened on one side which results in different distance between the rod and the lever assumed they are perfectly even. To put it more clear, for both of the levers, the measuring rod should be facing either outward or inward relative to the lever/handlebar. Once I flipped the bracket, it turned out that the other lever wasn't that much off.
Interesting thought, and I see your logic. Now I think about it, it makes complete sense. I’ll look into this further by measuring the levers with a tape measure and see if I find the same, but I suspect that I will.
5 degrees is a sweet spot. As a carpenter I can make a adapter by myself, but a tape measure is good enough for this kind of job. NO BS overpriced toy liked bike tools.
I bought the similar headset/compression plug, but found it very unsatisfying. (1) It relies on threads, however, threads are rubbish for locating features in mechanical designs as they need clearance to function. (2) The compression plug bore isn't co-linear with fork steering axis. (3) It requires a perfectly flat fork steerer cut, as imprecision in measurement is amplified the further away from the steering axis. (4) Rubbish handlebar manufacturing quality is such that they are not symmetric left-to-right. It's better than eyeballing, but it's awful if you're OCD. There are some home jigs out there that you can use with a laser level.
Why do road bikes have drop handlebars which 90 percent of bike users never use in the drops position and which cost about 500 per bike more than a flat bar bike.
If you put the levers too high you wont be able to work the brakes from the drops! Sometimes the positioning is a compromise between being able to reach the levers from the drops and a perfect hand position on the hoods.
Thought I was the only one who hated the term cockpit! It's a hole in the ground they throw fighting roosters into...or a place the airplane pilot sits...not a f__king bicycle handlebar/stem!!!
I wouldn’t tell people not to buy it, it just has its limitations. The play means it’s not that accurate as a hanger alignment tool, but it’s great for the job demonstrated. I have the proper steel Toopre hanger alignment tool (TOL-2.3), and its quality matches Park Tool. Toopre make tools that are more than adequate for the budding home mechanic, but may not be workshop grade. They need to spend less time copying Park Tool, and more time tidying up those few tools they haven’t got right.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
A spirit level is an ideal tool. HOWEVER ignore the bubble, what you do is: place the level as you did then from in front of the bike by eye align the top edge of the level with the top edge of your handlebars. No need for fancy gizmo's it works 100% Dad taught it to me age 12 some 52 years ago been using this method ever since.
"What this now means is that-I can't find anything."
So funny!!!!!! Thanks for the laughs !!!
I’m thinking of using Google Maps 😂😂
You are a riot!!!! And the content is gold .
Thanks so much for the hanger alignment tool repurposing trick! I love it!
I only found out about it after buying the blue tool. Always the way 😂
Amazing, thank you. It's about time someone gave a simple explanation to this complicated subject. 👏
You’re welcome 👍
For toe in of the hoods once levelled (as is the modern trend) a tape measure and a fine marker pen, I use a silver sharpie pen. Put a mark with the pen atop the hoods, then measure from your top cap bolt to each dot on each hood until they are the same, and your happy with the toe in.
Great tip 👍
Thanks for the info about aligning the hoods using a hanger alignment tool. Very handy idea. Thanks from Australia. 🇦🇺
You’re welcome. Hello from a cold wet England……. Isn’t technology great 😊 👍
Thanks. Excellent. This is something I have been looking for.
You’re welcome 👍
My friend u are a breath of fresh air and your enthusiastic approach is fantastic. Many safe miles this year. Sending best regards from the Netherlands
Thank you. And hello from the north west of England 👍👍
Jon is the best!
I always follow Campagnolo's rule - tip of brake lever even with lower surface of the drop on the bar. Easy to set-up by holding a simple straight-edge on the bar and moving the lever up/down on the bar so the tip just touches it. Easy to match the other side as well but I'll finish with the straight-edge laying across the hoods and making sure it's parallel with the handlebar top or using a level to get 'em even if the bar top has some slope or strange shaping.
I'm guessing with one-piece bar/stems some will move 'em slightly up/down to get the hoods where the like 'em, but don't go crazy - they really need to mount to the properly shaped place on the bar to work properly and avoid damage to bar or lever.
Thx for the video, and glad that you fully recovered from the flue!
Thank you 👍
Great tips Jon. You could have named the wheel brand for your next review 😀
learnt new things. happy new year mr. ribble!
Great stuff, happy new year to you sir.
Wow! Excellent video thank you so much for sharing your expertise
Glad it was helpful!
Great to have you back and well! I’m looking forward to the carbon wheels videos. I’m in the market for some road bike wheels for 34mm, choice more limited.
The wheels on the way are gravel 😕. Looking forward to getting my teeth into those EliteWheels. Best shallow road wheels I’ve seen recently are the Nepest…. Refuse to take them off my summer bike. If you’re working towards a budget, look at the ICAN road range.
Will do, thank you
wow, im looking forward for the improvement of those wheels. i might well use it for maintaining my elitewheels edge in future.
Looking forward to getting them on the bench.
Now to add more complexity remember our arms, like are legs are often different lengths. Setting the hoods in the same position is a great starting point, but for perfectly set position requires knowing arm length.
Thanks for so important video! I remember how I bought my first road bike after mtb experience and, unfortunately, there was very little info about correct cockpit setup.
Glad you enjoyed it. It’s for this reason I made it. 👍
Where do I get just the adaptor, the one that screws into the fork bung? Ta
My fitter recommended making sure the drops are parallel to the ground for descending stability and to adjust the drops from there. Sounds sensible to me, it'll be interesting if they end up just off that straight section.
This could explain my carpal tunnel problems. Thanks.
Could be worth giving the adjustment a try 👍
@ I did. Much more comfortable. I have two operations coming up, so even better. Thanks mate. Greetings from Portugal!
@lesbois53 Glad it was useful. Hope to holiday in Portugal one day…. Looks beautiful
I know you said this is a non-specific set up but to make sure it suits the individual, a good tip is to roll your grip from the hoods to the top of the cockpit and back again. There should be no movement in your shoulders. If there is a height difference, the shoulders will either drop or rise to suit to the incorrect level.
I use a metal clothes hanger in a rectangular C-shape to do the same thing. But that’s a nice tool.
I'm a big fan of finding free alternative ways of doing jobs. Great suggestion 👍
I had the hanger tool for a few years, but last year I brought the top cap adapter #gamechanger
Dude, I seriously don't get how can you find blue tools with blue fog of led.
Also incredably annying the blue as primary background light my brain is bleeding.
Nice apron, but is it any good for barbecuing too ?
No. Because it's Shimano, as soon as you try and do anything new with it, you have to buy the new upgraded version. 😉
@@ribblevalleycyclist a pitty, I was looking forward to a video of the Ribble Valley Pitmaster😀
@BrechtBeehive We could create a new channel character….. we could call him Jonny Cookout, the barbecuing bike guy 😂😂
The barbecuing bike guy, sounds catchy! “ I got his new kettle sent by Elite BBQs. But is it any good ? Lets find out! “
When it comes to adjusting my levers I just eyeball it and use my fingers and a ruler less money
I normally eyeball it too, I think you can go over the top with these things. However, I think a quick check with a tape is worth it.
Our arms arent the same size, so be comfortable is more important than be the same length
Hey Jon, I believe you use the tool the wrong way. I have a similar one, but from Lebycle brand (the orange one) and I found out that once I take the measurement one of the levers as reference, the other one looks outrageously off relative to the first one, alebit at a glance it's almost even. I figured out that the sliding bracket that holds the measuring rod must be flipped if it's to be used against the second lever. I think it's because the measuring rod is held on the side of the bracket and main rod of the tool rather than underneath to be in the same axis of symmetry and because the main rod of the tool is not round but flattened on one side which results in different distance between the rod and the lever assumed they are perfectly even. To put it more clear, for both of the levers, the measuring rod should be facing either outward or inward relative to the lever/handlebar. Once I flipped the bracket, it turned out that the other lever wasn't that much off.
Interesting thought, and I see your logic. Now I think about it, it makes complete sense. I’ll look into this further by measuring the levers with a tape measure and see if I find the same, but I suspect that I will.
makes sense to me, too. thank you. one needs to keep in mind the symmetry, relatively to the pivot point/axis, which is the stem.
@egorant If the measurement post was in the centre of the tool shaft, then there would be no need for the flip.
Very interesting. Who knew?
5 degrees is a sweet spot. As a carpenter I can make a adapter by myself, but a tape measure is good enough for this kind of job. NO BS overpriced toy liked bike tools.
I had to giggle when you said that you couldn't find anything after tidying-up
Always the way. Top tip, don’t tidy up 😂😂
I bought the similar headset/compression plug, but found it very unsatisfying. (1) It relies on threads, however, threads are rubbish for locating features in mechanical designs as they need clearance to function. (2) The compression plug bore isn't co-linear with fork steering axis. (3) It requires a perfectly flat fork steerer cut, as imprecision in measurement is amplified the further away from the steering axis. (4) Rubbish handlebar manufacturing quality is such that they are not symmetric left-to-right.
It's better than eyeballing, but it's awful if you're OCD. There are some home jigs out there that you can use with a laser level.
Why do road bikes have drop handlebars which 90 percent of bike users never use in the drops position and which cost about 500 per bike more than a flat bar bike.
If you put the levers too high you wont be able to work the brakes from the drops! Sometimes the positioning is a compromise between being able to reach the levers from the drops and a perfect hand position on the hoods.
Good advice 👍
no one has 2 arms with same lenght
A cockpit is an enclosed area.
The spirit level technique: couldn't you take your front tire off and sent your bike down on its fork?
That’s assuming the floor and bars are level. 😉
bikes don't have a cockpit they have bar and stems, calling it a cockpit just lets the manufacture's charge 4 times the money
Even at bike school it's classified as a cockpit
Like it or not, it's called a cockpit. I wondered if a female bicycle's cockpit can be called a "henpit".
thats what you call the handlebar system.
Thought I was the only one who hated the term cockpit! It's a hole in the ground they throw fighting roosters into...or a place the airplane pilot sits...not a f__king bicycle handlebar/stem!!!
As a pilot I only recognize I cockpit😊
that toopre aligment tool should be avoided. it not good because it have play on the place should have no play on it.
It has a small amount of play, but works well for the job demonstrated. I don’t use it as a hanger tool.
@@ribblevalleycyclist yes i try to tell people so they not buying that stuff. it waste their money if they buy it.
I wouldn’t tell people not to buy it, it just has its limitations. The play means it’s not that accurate as a hanger alignment tool, but it’s great for the job demonstrated. I have the proper steel Toopre hanger alignment tool (TOL-2.3), and its quality matches Park Tool. Toopre make tools that are more than adequate for the budding home mechanic, but may not be workshop grade. They need to spend less time copying Park Tool, and more time tidying up those few tools they haven’t got right.