Stabilising pine cones
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- Опубліковано 25 бер 2019
- In this video I go through the process for stabilising a pine cone. Getting it ready to set in resin.
This is the line to the video. Making pine cone scales. Where I turn the Pine cone in to a usable block.
• Making Resin Pine Cone...
Cactus juice from Metal and Clay
www.metalclay.co.uk/
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Thanks for the video with the process. Those blades that needed the sheaths look really nice!
Cheers Sam. I've got some photos of them on my facebook and instagram pages.
I'll have to check them out!
Gotta use glass lids when using stabilizing resins! The stabilizing resin will always damage the plastic/polycarbonate lids on vacuum chambers
Hi Preston. The simple answer to that is don't get the resin on the lid. I have used this system for over a year and haven't had a problem and it shows no sign of failing. The reason I had to change the lid in the first place was because the original glass lid failed. I had no intention in spending more money on another glass lid that I had no faith in. So I got the 25mm perspex that I could drill and tap myself for the fittings and haven't looked back.
Great video!
Subscribed.
Question. Is there a list of ingredients on the cactus juice?
Nice job on the scales, I’ve tried making pine scales a couple of times, and both times I’ve ruined them when cutting them in half as I’ve completely missed the centre core of the pine cone!
Another question, did you get the Evenheat over here or did you have to get it directly from the states?
Hi Andy. I got the even heat from the EU importer in Sweden. I know that Metal Clay Ltd are an importer for paragon ovens. With cutting the blocks to get the centre of the cone. I try and wedge the pine cone in the mold when I make the block so it gives me a good idea where the centre is.
So I have some really old pine blocks that have lots of cracks. I want to turn some and use some for knife scales. Should I stabilize first then fill voids with epoxy?
I dont think pine makes a good handle material with it being a soft wood with a high resin content. Age may change this but I'm not sure. I would always stabilise wood before adding the resin to the cracks. If you don't the wood can move (expand and contract) and the resin and wood can come apart.
@@danumblades how is using pine cones any better or stronger than pine itself?
The pine cone is set in resin and used for the pattern.
@@danumblades got it. I guess when you mentioned high resin content you meant the resin or sap in the pine. This is very old (probably well over 100 year old) pine. So substantially harder than most pine
Have a look at the house of resin website houseofresin.co.uk/ and houseofresin.co.uk/alumilite-clear-slow-resin-large-16lbs-7-26kg/
An easier way::
Heat cones in microwave for 3 minutes on high. Repeat after cooling 2 more times.
Spray coat of lacquer being sure to get into the stem. Let dry. Repeat as desired.
Cast in resin.
This is a lot faster and cheaper! SAFE TURNING, John
Cheers John. I'll have a look at doing it that way. Does it get good penetration in to the centre of the stem?
I have never had a problem doing it that way. I was hunting a faster way and found that is what works for me. SAFE TURNING ,John
But you are not really stabilizing or strengthening the pinecone, which is the reason for this whole exercise.